And what we mean by that is there are so many variables, that you can’t always give absolute answers. The level of correction you’re going for is a factor, the condition of the paint is a factor, whether it’s OEM or aftermarket paint is a factor, the working conditions are factors (working in a temperature-controlled environment versus outside in the heat and humidity), and the list goes on and on.

But when we really break it all down, we discover that there are 5 key elements to proper and effective paint polishing. And the variables that I previously mentioned all intertwine with these 5 key elements.

At the Esoteric Elite Detailer Academy, we spend a lot of time covering this topic because by truly understanding the relationship of one element to the other, we know how to react to the demands of the paint and plan our approach accordingly. In the class we have ample time to discuss this thoroughly, but I may only have a few minutes for you, the reader, so I’ll summarize accordingly so that you at least get a good understanding of how it all works.

The 5 Key Elements to Proper and Effective Paint Polishing

The basic principle is this…get all of the elements correct, and you will successfully accomplish all of your polishing goals. But if you choose just one of the elements incorrectly, then it can have a negative impact on your results.

1. Your choice of machine. Are you using a rotary, a dual action, or perhaps a forced rotation D/A?
2. Your choice of backing plate
3. Your choice of polishing pad.
4. Your choice of polish / compound.
5. Your technique.

All of these elements are very closely related, and in some cases you can even have several “correct” choices within each element and still achieve great results. But in other cases, even missing a sub-element can make all of the difference (for instance…the right polish, but using too much or too little).

Now that I’ve listed them all out, let’s take a little closer look at each one, and explore some of our options and decisions we need to make in order to achieve the desired results.

1. Your choice of machine.

While it may look simple and in many cases interchangeable between a rotary polisher, a dual-action polisher, or a forced-rotation dual-action polisher, you very well may be surprised at just how much of a difference your choice of machine makes depending on the paint you’re working with, and whether you’re doing compounding or finish-polishing. You’ll run into some paints that simply do not like the action of a rotary, and only a dual action will get the job done. On other paints, you may find just the opposite (some aftermarket paints in particular). Especially if you’re working on a car / paint system that you’re not familiar with, it requires a scientific approach during your test sections to determine what’s going to work best on that paint, on that particular day. During my last training class, we were working on a black Porsche that simply did not like the sheering action of the rotary during finish-polishing. Regardless of what changes we made in the other 4 elements, the fact was that the rotary machine was the wrong choice for that particular car. And for those who choose to limit themselves to just one type of machine, there will be cars that they won’t be able to achieve the highest level of correction or finishing.

2. Your choice of backing plate.

I think the backing plate is one of the most underrated elements that we work with, and one that many take for granted. Each backing plate is a little different than the other, and some are designed for very specific applications. One of the reasons why the aftermarket backing plate business is so big is because the ones that come with the machines are usually sub-par. How do you know which backing plate is the right one, or one that will work best for you? Well a lot of that comes with experience working with different ones, and finding out how the results vary when all other elements remain the same. One example would be the backing plate of choice when working with Meguiar’s Micro Fiber Cutting Discs. By using their backing plate (designed for the MF system), you will achieve your greatest amount of cut with best finish in my experience. If you go with one that’s too soft, or provides too much flex, then the cut you will achieve could vary greatly (you could lose upwards of 20-30% cutting capacity). And when working with a rotary, this can vary quite a bit too and your backing plate choice can be dependent upon which pad and polish you’re using, or on whether you’re compounding or finish polishing.

3. Your choice of polishing pad.

For those who have a nice selection of pads, you know right away that your results can and will vary greatly from pad to pad. And the “right” choice of pad with one paint type doesn’t mean that it will be the right choice on another paint type. While I can do most of my work with just a small selection of pads, I still run into jobs or paint types that throw me a curve ball, and I need to make some unconventional choices to achieve my goals. Get to know the cutting and finishing capabilities and tendencies of a variety of pads so that you have alternatives to reach for when you’re not getting the desired results.

4. Your choice of polish / compound.

There are so many (good) choices out there right now for compounds and polishes that it can become overwhelming if you let it. While on one hand I teach detailers to have a strong understanding of a variety of polishes so that they have their bases covered, I do think there’s a limit. If you have too many, it can have a tendency to cloud your vision a bit, and you may simply know less about the characteristics of more polishes.

Your choice of polish or compound can have a significant impact on your results, particularly when you’re dealing with the fringes of the cutting scale (heavy cut, or super-fine finishing). When you’re dealing with the middle range for one-step polishes, your choices are far greater. But when you need major correction on hard paints, or fine finishing on soft paints, your choices are very narrow. Choose wisely and you will be rewarded with great results. Choose poorly, and your results won’t be as great, and you could very well spend way more time than necessary too.

Always remember that there’s no one “magical” polish or compound for every paint. You may find one that works perfectly for you 90% of the time, but for those other 10% paints, you’ll need to have some alternatives that you know and trust. For any detailer that sticks to one polish, I’ll guarantee that there will be some cars out there where they don’t make look as good. When people ask me what brand I like to use, I tell them: “many”.

Another aspect of your choice of polish is the amount that you use. This could actually be categorized in the “Technique” element as well, but I’ll go ahead and mention it here. If you have all 5 elements correct, but you’re using too much (very common mistake) or too little product, your results will suffer.

5. Your technique.

I’ve seen many times where people say that “it’s all in the technique”. To this I have to disagree, because this is just one of the 5 key elements that dictates the kind of results you’re going to get. In some cases the results are weighted in the technique category, but it’s not everything.

But…if you have all 4 elements correct, and your technique is off, you could be seriously missing out on results! I was recently working on a car with my assistant in the shop, and I first figured out the 5 elements that would best work on that car given all of our other variables (condition, level we were taking it to, etc). I told her exactly what we needed to do, and she proceeded with polishing. This was her first significant correction job, and she was very happy with her results on the first few panels. But a little later she said that she was checking her work, and realized that it wasn’t correcting as well as when she started. After evaluating the surface, I told her to increase her pressure just a little bit. She did, and the results improved by 25%…all with a slight increase in pressure (technique). So in this case she had the right machine, backing plate, pad, and polish, but she just slightly fell off on her technique and it made all the difference in the world.

The technique can be dependent upon the type of paint you’re working on (hard or soft), it can be dependent upon the machine you’re working with, and it can be dependent on the pad / polish selection as well. As you can see, it’s all very much related to one another and you need to learn what works best in which instances.

By now you should be getting a much better idea of just how much is involved when developing the right system for paint polishing…it’s not just a matter of picking up a machine, slapping some polish on a pad, and creating art. There are so many variables involved, and you need to have a full understanding of how all of the 5 elements relate to one another in order to get the most out of your polishing session. And when you’re doing a test section to find out the best combination to use for that day, you need to be scientific in your approach to develop the best system. If you start changing multiple elements at the same time, you’ll never know what’s working and what’s not.

Now I’m sure some of you reading this hoped that by the end of the article you would be enlightened on how to perfectly polish paint simply by following the 5 Key Elements. If that’s the case, then you may be a bit disappointed right now because there’s no one magical combination.

What I have provided you with however is a better understanding of what goes into paint polishing, and a solid blueprint for you to determine how to get the most out of your next session(s). Articles like these are designed to be informative and educational, but they’re also written to be thought-provoking so that you have the tools to make the right decisions yourself.

So remember…get the 5 Key Elements to Proper and Effective Paint Polishing correct and you will be rewarded with art. But if you get just one of these key elements incorrect, then expect your results to fall short of potential.

A lot of detailers and weekend warriors own a Porter Cable 7424xp.  For many of us, it is the main buffer that we use.  I am going to discuss the usage of the side handle, or as the instruction manual calls it, an auxiliary handle:

“An auxiliary handle is furnished with the tool. You can install the auxiliary handle on either side of the front housing to facilitate either right-handed or left-handed operation.

Grasp the polisher firmly with both hands – one hand on auxiliary handle and one hand on motor housing.”

Having a second polisher, I have designated my PC for 4″ polishing. I use it for awkward curves on a body panel, and for tighter areas. If I installed the side handle it would most certainly get in the way many times.

In fact, I have never used the side handle while using the PC, even when I was using it with 5.5″ pads.  The main issue is that while light pressure is needed on the pad, using the side handle could cause uneven pressure on the pad. This means you would “tilt” the pad to which ever side you have installed the handle. Although, I did find my side handle, still in the bag and never opened.

Instead, I just use the top of the machine for one hand and my other hand on the motor housing. It allows for proper pressure directly on the pad. Here is DJ Mayo showing this technique.

Without the side handle installed, the top plastic housing is just clipped on and can come off rather easily. 

In order to prevent this, I added two bolts with rubber washers to either side of the machine where the side handle would go. I went to a local “box store” with my machine and found these.

These bolts ensure the cover is secured to the body.  In addition to the housing being secured, I have found that with the rubber washers and bolts installed, vibrations in the machine are reduced.

I think the reasons that many manufacturers are changing to a D style handle are fairly clear. They allow for more even pressure on pads and are not as intrusive as a side handle. Personally, I do not use the D handle on my second machine. Instead, I have installed the washers and bolts in that machine, gaining the reduction in vibrations and allowing for direct top pressure on pads.

Chances are if you have ever owned a light colored vehicle, you have seen tiny red or rust colored spots on the finish. These spots are not your normal dirt and debris and do not come off with just a quick maintenance wash. They actually go beyond the top layer of your finish and some can be buried deep into the clear coat. A lot of people have no idea what these spots are, what causes them, or how to remove them. These spots are referred to as “rail dust”. They can be very frustrating and I’d like to share some helpful tips, otherwise the process can take hours to remove. Here is an example on this silver Range Rover:

What is Rail Rust:

Rail dust is a term used to describe tiny metal particles that have embedded themselves into your clearcoat. The term was originally used to describe dust that comes off of railroad rails. When vehicles are transported via train there is a lot of friction between the rails and the train wheels. Both parts are outside at all times so they have a built up level of rust on them. This rust flies into the air in dust particles when the train is moving. Eventually these particles settle on the vehicles being transported. They embed themselves into the clearcoat and still continue to rust causing tiny red or rust colored spots in the clearcoat. Vehicles that are transported uncovered are usually worse because of the finish being heated by the sun.

Rail dust does not just come from transportation though. It can come from almost anywhere; rust particle on the road from other cars,  from nearby train tracks,  from your disk brakes, or even from industrial areas. These particles can be very hard to remove but if you take a few special steps the removal process can be a lot easier and less time consuming.

How to remove Rail Dust:

First you will want to do a full wash using The Grit Guard 2×4 Wash Method. It is best to do this in a shaded area to help prevent swirl marks and because you will need to have the vehicle wet during a few of these steps.

Next you will want to use a product called CarPro Iron X Iron Removal on the vehicle. Iron X interacts with the contaminants embedded in your clearcoat and dissolves or loosens them. This is a very easy product to use and it gets the job done. All you have to do is mist it onto the vehicle, wait about 5 minutes for it settle, and then rinse it off. The product goes on clear but will turn to a dark purple color once it starts to interact with any contaminants in the clearcoat, including rail dust. This step will help loosen the particles and make them easier to clay out of the clearcoat.

TIP: Do not let the Iron X dry on the surface. If you’re worried about it drying on the surface do smaller sections of the car at a time.

Iron X is safe on all exterior surfaces and here is what it looks like on this Aston Martin wheel:

After the particles have been loosened move onto claying your vehicle. A good clay bar that is great on most paints is the DI Gentle Fine Grade Clay Bar. Some paint finishes are softer or harder than others so there is an Ultra Fine grade and Medium grade available also. When you are claying you will need to spray a lubricant onto the vehicles surface to reduce friction between the clay bar and the clearcoat. This will prevent any marring from occurring. I use Dodo Juice Born Slippery. It comes concentrated and makes about 2.5L of clay lube.

Start by spraying on the lubricant and then GENTLY rubbing the clay bar back and forth against the clearcoat. Clay one panel at a time so your lubricant doesn’t dry. You will feel the clay bar grab at first but once you make a couple passes it will glide smoothly. This is how you know the contaminants are being removed. If an area is still grabbing after a couple passes, make a couple more. It’s a good idea to go back and forth in both directions. Since rail dust is a red or rust color you will be able to see if it is still there or not. Some areas will need a little more elbow grease than others.

Once the surface feels nice and smooth then the contaminants (rail dust) should be removed. If they are not gone or being difficult to remove then repeat the previous Iron X step. Most of the time one application will do the trick, but if the rail dust has been there for a long time or is deeper than normal it might take an extra application.

Finish by rinsing off the vehicle and proceeding to the drying process.

Here are some before and after pictures of this process.

Before:

After:

Before:

After:

Once you are done you will have a nice and clean contaminant free surface!

After all that work you are going to want to apply a durable wax, sealant, or coating to help prevent rail dust from occurring again.

Thanks for reading and hope this article is helpful!!!

Addison Good grew up in the small town of Chillicothe, Ohio. After high school he moved to Columbus Ohio where he attended DeVry University. He obtained a Bachelor’s degree in Biomedical Engineering, but he decided to start a detailing business instead of pursuing a job in his field. He worked alongside and was trained by one of our own writers, Todd Cooperider of Esoteric Detail . As Addison’s skill increased he started managing collections and taking care of exotics in a high end car storage facility. He now lives in Naples Florida detailing high end cars for his own company, Good Guys Detailing, or check them out on Facebook. He’s based out of Naples, FL but he can service vehicles in the entire South Florida area as a mobile detailer. Addison offers a large variety of services and packages that vary from a simple car wash, to a full blown corrective paint detail. He has worked on many impressive vehicles such as the Under Ground Racing Twin Turbo Gallardo, Lamborghini Murcielago, Ford GT, Porsche Panamera, Aston Martin Vantage, Mercedes SLS AMG, Mazerati Gran Tourismo, Ferrari 599 GTB. He did an amazing job on a Lamborghini Performante, take a look for yourself! Outside of detailing Addison enjoys cycling, mountain biking, cars, photography, techno music and trips to Las Vegas. He participates annually in a 180 mile two day bike race organized by Pelontonia in Columbus, Ohio that raises money for cancer research. The whole Pelotonia organization has raised over 25 million dollars in the past three years.

Greg attended the University of Harford in Connecticut and received degrees in Sociology, Psychology, and Criminal Justice. After college Greg went to work in his family’s restaurant and he currently still works in the food industry as a manager at a banquet facility. Greg was a board member for NNJR SCCA for many years, and has done some Wheel2Wheel racing and Autocross in the past. After many years of training and learning the detailing trade Greg formed Signature Detailing, or visit them on Facebook located in Randolph New Jersey. Believing that there is so much more to a good detail then just a wash and a wax, he wants to not only provide the best detail possible, but to also educate customers on how to maintain and get the most out of a detail. It’s a premium detailing service that provides exceptional work on every vehicle no matter what vehicle it is or the service selected. Greg works out of his shop in Northern NJ and he will also travel to clients homes as a mobile detailer. Signature Detailing offers basic detailing packages along with many more involved packages, like a complete paint correction and a permanent paint coating for long lasting protection. Greg has worked with fellow Ask-A-Pro author DJ Mayo from DJ Mayo Studios,  on some incredible detailing jobs on high end vehicles as well. Contact Greg if you’re interested in any work in the Northern NJ area!

With the addition of Greg Gellas that means we have three people with name Greg on the Ask-A-Pro Team! So just to avoid any future confusion, below is a list differentiating each of them.
1) Greg Gellas – Ask-A-Pro Author, Signature Detailing of Randolph New Jersey
2) Greg Nichols – Ask-A-Pro Author, Reflections Detailing of Logan, Utah
3) Greg Pautler – Co-Owner of DetailedImage.com and the Ask-A-Pro Blog

We’ll have articles out from both new authors this coming week that we are excited to share with you. Thank you for reading and please help me welcome our two new authors to the Ask-A-Pro Blog!

Jambs

Cleaning door, trunk and hood jambs is one thing I do on every detail service and something I highly recommend to all clients who take care of their own vehicles.  This is a vital part of the cleaning process because a lot of dust and dirt particles collects in all the jambs on a regular basis.  Leaves, mud, etc ends up in the jambs with simple daily driving, so if all this is left untouched for a longer time it tends to require quite a bit of cleaning and may even stain the paint.  The hood jambs are usually extremely filthy if they haven’t been touched in a while, so these may take much longer to clean than door and trunk jambs.  The way I treat all jambs during detailing work, that is detail work where I’m not hired to specifically clean jambs, is by simply wiping them down well with Optimum No-Rinse and an All-Purpose Microfiber Towel.  I do this for all the jambs after the wash.  Waxing the jambs is also a great idea in order to keep them cleaner for following washes.

Engine and Hood Wipedown

Immediately following the jambs, I like to wipe down the underside of the hood as well as the engine bay.  Reason being, a lot of dust and grease can easily collect all over the engine bay and, just like with jambs, if left to collect for a long time will be a big pain to completely remove.  One thing I also noticed as a result of not wiping down the underside of the hood and engine bay are numerous water spots right around the edges.  This happens because during washing water will collect a few inches under the hood all around, but since it’s not dried it simply leaves a spot/stain.  Over time these become a horrible eyesore, especially if there are painted or aluminum parts that can easily show the water marks.  So, I’d simply recommend spending the 5-10 minutes wiping everything down in order to avoid any future headaches.  Just as the door jambs can be protected, a good step for the engine and hood underside is a coat of protection on the paint and plastics.  The protection is an added bonus whereas the cleaning is something that should definitely be performed.

Fuel Door

The inside of the fuel door becomes just as filthy as the engine bay if not treated regularly, so this area is definitely a stop in my wipedown process.  I treat it the same way as the jambs and engine bay, simply wiping down everything well and throwing on a coat of spray wax for good measure.  Another extremely important reason for wiping down the fuel door area is to check and, if necessary, unclog the drain that pretty much every vehicle has.  Usually it’s one or a few small holes somewhere under the fuel cap, which, if they become clogged, could lead to overfill spilling out and running down your beautiful paint!  Always keep this area clean and free of debris.

Exhaust Tips

A large majority of exhaust/muffler tips are made of some variety of stainless steel or something similar, which means they all end up getting fairly beat up with regular daily driving.  These exhaust tips are a part that’s greatly overlooked in the enthusiast community, at least in my area, because owners tend to simply care for the paint and not much else.  I never understood why since the tips are extremely easy to clean and, like everything else, if kept clean on a regular basis they won’t get to the point where complete polishing and restoration is necessary.  To keep the exhaust tips clean, you simply need to remember to wash them every wash with a dedicated wash mitt or sponge and bucket.  Wash them thoroughly inside and out, and also feel free to reach under and wash the muffler in part or the whole thing.  In addition to washing, a mild metal polish, like the Optimum Metal Polish, might be required every now and then to thoroughly remove any embedded contamination and fully clean the tips.  As with the other areas, a coat of protection is always a good idea!

Panel Edges and Creases

After every wash and jambs wipedown, I like to run some cotton swabs along pretty much all the creases of the car.  Not only does this process remove any wax residue on some edges of panels, but it also gets out the dirt inside creases (for example between a rear quarter panel and bumper or sideskirt on some vehicles) that a normal washing cannot.  This is important to not only clean the car thoroughly, but to ensure no loose dirt will come out later during waxing, polishing, etc.  Some creases and edges may require a bit more attention, which usually calls for a brush and a more aggressive cleaning solution, but typically a simple wipedown with some Foam Swabs and a light cleaner will get the job done.

Wheels

This may seem like a no-brainer, but I’m not talking about simply washing the wheels with brushes, cleaners and mitts.  I’m referring to giving the wheels a thorough wipedown AFTER all the cleaning has been done, in order to get all the standing dirt and dust that a simple brushing and rinse cannot remove.  So what I like to do is, after cleaning the wheels with wheel brushes, like the EZ Detail Brush and Boars Hair Detailing Brush, and P21S Wheel Cleaner, give them a good wipedown as with all the other things.  Both on the face of the wheels as well as back of spokes.  This gets rid of all the dust/dirt that requires a good wipedown and ensures the wheels are thoroughly cleaned.  Plus, it provides a clean surface for a coat of wax or sealant.  Don’t forget to run some foam or cotton swabs around the bolts to get the last piece of dirt out.

Well, that’s all I got for now .  Keep in mind, following these tips will not only make the car cleaner and look better, but it also allows for easier cleaning each time after the initial cleaning.  The next time you get to stuff like the jambs, engine or exhaust tips, all that will be required is a simple and quick wipedown to get some standing dust off.

Thanks for reading as always!

“Most swirls are added during the washing process so it is very important to have a high quality washing tool. Generic mitts and sponges are often not soft and plush enough to safely clean your entire vehicle. They lack the paint safe fibers and pockets of space that ensure you don’t grind in contaminants while washing. The extremely soft collection of natural paint safe fibers makes this a premium wash mitt for top quality detailing work. Equally important is that contaminates in the mitt are easily released when you put the mitt in your rinsing bucket. Releasing contaminates is critical, so they do not remain on the surface while you continue to wash. This product is made from natural materials, which means there are varying levels of durability compared to synthetic mitts. However the ultra plush natural fibers in the Sheepskin Wash Mitt give you peace of mind knowing you are using a paint safe mitt. The only difference between this mitt and the one with the thumb is just the thumb. They are both from the same quality materials, this one doesn’t have a specific slot for your thumb. Use one today and you will be impressed with the outstanding results”

I wanted to leave more than just a basic review on this mitt as it’s definitely one of my favorite tools in the business.

Why I like it

I personally use the Sheepskin Wash Mitt without thumb as I find no use for the thumb, but the Mitt with Thumb is just as good so it’s simply a personal preference.  This mitt is a favorite because it’s the perfect tool for washing and the best I’ve come across in a long time.  I’ve been using it for years now and never had an issue.  It’s an extremely soft and safe wash media for any types of paint, so it doesn’t instill any swirl marks when used properly and cleaned regularly.  It’s also a great performer at actually cleaning the paint as it has long fibers that can trap dirt safely and easily.  As described in my Winter Washing With ONR article, I like to first use the mitt on one side with very light to no pressure, then follow up with the other side to fully clean the section.  This way I ensure that some of the dirt on the vehicle is picked up with very light pressure, and the remaining with the other, clean side of the mitt.

Maintenance

The DI Sheepskin Mitt is not only a great performer, it’s also extremely durable.  One mitt lasts many, many washes, but as with everything else, requires proper cleanup and maintenance to stay in good shape.  I like to thoroughly wash my mitts after every 2-3 washes, however if the car I’m washing is extremely dirty I’ll probably go ahead and wash it thoroughly immediately after.  Allow me to explain.  When I say thoroughly wash, I’m talking about throwing 3-4 mitts into a bucket full of soapy water, letting them sit for at least a few hours, then thoroughly rinsing them inside out.  After washing, I set them to dry and make sure they remain opened so the inside can thoroughly dry.  I’ve found that if the inside doesn’t dry well it can lead to the mitt losing fibers faster than normal.  To dry it well on the inside, I find it best to push the mitt onto something like a broom handle or L hook in order to keep the cuff facing down, allowing all the water to drain out and air to get in.

In addition to this thorough washing, I do clean up the mitts after each and every wash by thoroughly spraying them with an All-Purpose Cleaner on the outside, then rinsing and drying completely.  Most of my mitts last at least 15-20 washes before they get demoted to wheel washing duty.  At this point, they still perform very well, but I always like to be on the safest side of things so I prefer to switch to brand new mitts.  Again, this is a big variable as I encounter mostly dirty vehicles who need a good washing, whereas cleaner vehicles that get washed on a regular basis would probably extend the 15-20 washes to over 30-40 before I found the need to switch to new mitts.

Lastly, the first thing I do with my mitts is cut off the little loop near the cuff so to not have it drag on the paint aimlessly.  As noted above, I like to dry the mitts from the inside out, so the little loop is of absolutely no use to me.  Others may find it useful, so to each their own.

Final Thoughts

The DI Sheepskin Mitt is a main tool in my detailing arsenal and one I would highly recommend to anyone out there.  It works very well both with traditional washing methods as well as rinseless products, such as Optimum No-Rinse.  It’s one of the few tools that is always used and has no replacement so there’s no wondering what to choose for a specific car, as we do with cleaners, polishes, claybar, etc.  Definitely a must have for anyone and a big time favorite of mine!

Hope this encourages some of you guys to give this mitt a shot as I’m sure you’ll like the outstanding results and ease of use.

Thanks for reading!

More often than not, your new car will come with factory defects. This is due to a handful of things whether it’s an untrained employee, or an unfortunate incident in the building or transportation phase. In most cases, these problems are caused from “over detailing”, especially on your more expensive vehicles. Factories and dealerships attempt to prep the cars for customer pickup but end up doing more damage than good. The other common problem is when something more serious happens during the building and transportation phase it becomes a “quick fix” and results in paint not matching, uneven amounts of clear from panel to panel, dull areas of sanding marks, and even at times thin edges where precautionary steps were not taking. Although a lot of this can not be avoided, remember when purchasing a new car, please inform that you would not like the car prepped and you will take it as is. Doing this step and sending immediately to your paint correction expert will start the vehicle off the right way. For several well respected guys, it’s not uncommon to have new cars that come in for this service before the owner ever takes delivery of their new purchase.

For example, let’s take a close look at this brand new LP550. Even with the car being white these defects take away from the gloss and the overall appearance of the car, not to mention driving new owners crazy knowing about the problem areas.

After measuring the amount of clear, I proceeded onto the test section as always to find the least aggressive method that allowed for complete correction of the sanding marks and other defects. Also notice the very strict tapeline on the edge. Since the sanding marks were right up to the edge, that tells that the sanding was done while overlapping the edges with no caution. Sometimes you have to tape, correct the area, then re tape the opposite side to correct the area that was tapped first.

The transformation in person was a completely different white that was now up to our standards.

Also be sure to check your tail lights, they always benefit from the same treatment that is used on the paint. Lights before.

Lights after.

The overhead studio lights were perfect for spotting the defects in the white Lamborghini paint.

Now with the beautiful area I was in, I knew the surroundings would make for some great after photos. Please enjoy and feel free to share with your automotive forums and social media!

The interior was only giving a quick wipe down and interior glass treatment.

List of products used:
Meguiar’s M105
Meguiar’s D300
Menzerna 106
Chemical Guys Blacklight
Chemical Guys E-Zyme Natura
Chemical Guys VRT
Optimum Metal Polish
Sonax Glass Cleaner
Surbuf Pads
Meg’s MF Pads
LC Black Pads

A special thanks to Eric Schuster for the referral and my close friend and part time help Kyle Benton.

If you or anyone else has any questions or comments, please reply in the comment box below, thank you!

This is a question that a lot of readers and other detailing enthusiasts new to machine polishing ask quite a bit.  Having the correct amount of polish on the pad is very important because it ensures you get the results you’re after without using too much or wasting time on non-necessary polishing.  Due to the many pad and polish combinations out there, all the different machines, as well as different goals from a polishing job, it’s really all but impossible to give the “right” answer for every scenario.

That said, my focus here is to give a sort of general guide on applying polish to pads.  I almost exclusively use the Flex XC 3401 VRG polisher with 5.5″ Lake Country Pads.  One important factor to consider is whether you’re using a polish with diminishing or non-diminishing abrasives.  As you’ll see below, I prefer to use a lot less polish on the pad when using diminishing abrasives because those polishes typically have longer work times and you’re better off using a proper amount per section of paint.

First off, here’s a few photos to explain my process when using Meguiar’s D300 Correction Compound with a 5.5″ Lake Country Orange Pad.  The following process is also used with other polishes utilizing non-diminishing abrasives, such as Meguiar’s Ultra-Cut Compound M105 and Meguiar’s Ultra Finishing Polish M205.  I like to first prime the pad well over the entire surface area.

I do this by pouring out some polish in a circular pattern over the entire pad…

Then I spread that polish out with my finger to completely prime the pad…

Once that’s done, I’ll apply small amounts of polish to certain areas I may have missed the first time around…

Now my pad is ready to polish a section of the paint.  Once I’m done polishing that section and using a brush over the pad to get rid of dust and residue (for more info on cleaning pads please refer to my article Pad Cleaning During and After Polishing), I apply some more polish to do the next section.  Following the first priming of the pad, I typically apply the following amount or less…

As much as it’s important to apply proper amounts of polish to the pad during a polishing job, it’s just as important to know when to call it quits with one pad and start with a fresh one.  I also go over that in more detail in my above mentioned article, but in short, pads get saturated with polish and paint residue, so after a certain point they don’t work nearly as well as they should.  Thus, it’s necessary to replace them as often as the job calls for it.

For diminishing abrasive polishes, such as Menzerna Micro Polish SF 4500 (PO85RD), it’s necessary to use a lot less polish and no priming is required.  For these polishes, I use the following amount of polish…

I use this much polish on the pad whether it’s the first polish application to a fresh pad or second, third, etc.  Regardless of the type of polish though, the pad will get too saturated over a few sections, so it will require replacement with a new, clean pad.

That said, I do encourage others to use this as only a general guide, while experimenting with both more and less polish.  It has happened plenty of times where a helper of mine, with only 2-3 months polishing experience vs my 5-6 years’ worth, finds a better polish amount to use and/or technique with the machine that results in slightly better results.

I hope this is a helpful guide for many readers out there and thanks to all for reading!

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The P21S Paintwork Cleanser, simply put, is a must have for everyone.

P21S Paintwork Cleanser is a great way to prepare your paint before sealing or waxing. This pure polish helps cleanse the clear coat so it is free from embedded debris and other contamination. Over time contaminates will become lodged in between the micro ridges of the clear coat and they will often not be removed with a simple wash and dry. The contaminates and swirls cause light to not pass directly through the clear coat, which prevents a deep shine. This polish will help remove imperfections, surface contamination, oxidation, old wax and sealant while buffing the paint to a high shine. The Paintwork Cleanser’s smooth cream goes on and off very easy and makes a great addition to any detailer’s arsenal.

This a must have because it’s a product in a category all by itself.  Along with being a great pre-wax cleanser, it’s a great tool when you want to avoid a complete clay bar decontamination and polishing.

As the description states, the P21S Paintwork Cleanser works very well as a chemical cleaner for everything from faded/oxidized paint to water spots.  It is surprisingly effective considering it leaves a perfect finish and doesn’t marr the paint at all when used properly.  I use it mostly when clients are seeking removal of lighter surface contamination but don’t want any clay usage and machine polishing, or prior to applying protection to the paint.

How to use it

I use the P21S Paintwork Cleanser mainly by hand, utilizing either a DI Microfiber Applicator Pad or DI Yellow Foam Applicator Pad.  I like to use the foam applicator pad when I’m trying to remove some spotting or staining, such as light water spots or tar staining in the paint, because I find it to be a bit more aggressive.  By being a tad more aggressive I find the foam pad simply easier to use compared to the microfiber pad because I need to use less pressure and spend less time removing certain staining.  Along with water stains, it’s a great combo to use when removing wax residue, sticker/adhesive residue and minor scuffs in the paint.  On the other hand, I find the microfiber pad much easier to hold and use in general, so I like to utilize it when applying the cleanser simply as a pre-wax treatment over the entire vehicle.  The microfiber pad also covers more surface area so it makes more sense to use it instead of the foam pad for pre-wax prep.

As far as motion and pressure goes, it generally requires very little to no pressure.  I like to use left/right and up/down motions as with anything else to ensure that you don’t cause any circular swirl marks and makes it easy to tell if you are causing any by seeing straight swirls in the paint.  As I said above, pressure will slightly vary depending on the results you’re after and what exactly you’re trying to accomplish with the cleanser, but in general I’d recommend almost no pressure.

To wrap up, I have been using the P21S Paintwork Cleanser for many years now, and I don’t see another product replacing it.  Zymol’s HD Cleanse is a competing product but I find the P21S cleanser to be the same or better in terms of actual cleansing ability and considering that it’s much easier to use, doesn’t stain the applicators and also leaves a well prepped finish, the P21S Paintwork Cleanser is an easy choice over any others.  Highly recommended for all to try out soon!