The memories from past seasons are playing in my eye lids when I close my eyes. I can vividly remember deer hunting with my Grandfather in Jackson County Alabama’s Paint Rock Valley. It was just him and I sitting on a huge rock while my brother and Dad were probably doing the same thing on the top of the mountain. I was watching stumps and fallen trees so intensely that my imagination would make them move just like a deer. It got the point that I could make it happen on command.

I remember harvesting my first deer, a doe. Again I was hunting with my Grandfather, my Dad, and my brother. We wore my Uncle Bill’s old farm out. We knew exactly how and when the deer moved. I shot my doe just seconds after my Dad shot a little buck less than 200 yards away. My shot wasn’t the greatest and I remember having to slide down a bluff on my rump to retrieve the animal. I was so sad and so happy looking at my trophy with my brother by my side.

Then there are the memories of hunting in Southern Illinois during the shotgun season. I harvested my biggest buck there on the same trip my Dad harvested his biggest buck. We both have them mounted and hanging in our living rooms to remind us of the good times had.

It is these memories, and the opportunity to make some more, that keep me excited about deer hunting. As the season nears I am sure I am not the only one walking down memory lane. Feel free to share with us some of your hunting stories. But above all, please be safe this season. Never let your feet leave the ground without having a safety harness on. Always let someone know where you are going and what time you plan on being back. You have many more memories to make, don’t let them slip away.

Dear Crappie Tamer: Deciding to use jigs or minnows is one of the inevitable questions of most crappie enthusiasts. As with most fishing questions, I would say it depends. The 3 most important factors I consider are: water color, weather, and preference.

Water Color
Clear water - When the water is clear, you want to get as close to natural color and movement as possible. I find that this is the best time to use minnows. Trolling or fishing the brush areas provides excellent bounties. If you use jigs, try using dark colors.

Tinted water- After a hard rain or muddy conditions, this is a great time to bust out the jigs. In really dark water, I sometimes add a small spinner to the jig. This provides some vibration and noise, when the crappies have a harder time locating food. Try using bright colors and colors with sparkles. My favorite is the chartreuse jig or yellow/pink twirly tail.

Weather
Weather conditions are the most challenging to me, because I find crappie to be erratic. If it is cloudy/rainy I usually progress from light to darker colors and find out what they are hitting. If it is sunny, I love to use minnows or dark color baits.

Preference
Depending on how much time you have to fish and your fishing location, I take into consideration the following Pros and Cons of both jigs and minnows. Jigs - You can cover more ground by casting. Ease of tackle, you can carry into remote locations. No minnow bucket needed. You can change colors based on water color. Minnows - Natural food that crappie are accustomed to. They provide real action. You have to worry about keeping them alive. You may have to go out of your way to purchase or catch them.

Overall, I would say these 3 factors probably provide about 75% of return. 25% is just whatever the crappie feel like biting. The best solution, which has paid off in a winning tournament a few years back, is to use both! One person fishes with minnows, one person with jigs. You can purchase my favorite jigs below and also check out my crappie tackle page. Now go out there and reel in those slabs!!!

Bass Pro Shops Tournament Series Squirmin’ Squirts - 1-1/2” - 20 Pack The soft, hollow body and fine, undulating tentacles dart through the water like a real minnow. Salt-impregnated. Length: 1-1/2”. 20 pack.

Blue Fox Big Crappie? Jig Check out the head design on this sharp new jig. About as real as it gets–and the “Living Tail” with flash fiber inserts creates the profile and flash of a crappie’s favorite meal, the shiner . Internal rattle; extra-sharp VMC hook.

I can remember growing up on my grandfather’s farm in eastern Kentucky. At the beginning of every gardening season, he would go into the basement and pull out jars of seeds that he saved from the previous year. This was more than just saving seeds so he wouldn’t have to buy new ones, it was tradition. He always enjoyed replanting what he had harvested before. Throughout the growing season he would pick the best looking vegetables and save their seeds. In his last year before passing, the seeds were lost. This year, I’m picking up my grandfather’s tradition and I hope to pass it on to my children.

There are many definitions for heirlooms. The most basic is: heirlooms are any garden plant/vegetable that has a history of being passed down within a family. The majority of definitions state that heirlooms are older than 50 years and heirlooms are usually planted in small-scale agriculture.

Saving Your Seeds
Open pollination is the key to seed saving. Plants that reproduce through natural means tend to adapt to local conditions, and evolve as reliable performers, particularly in their localities. The first step in saving your seeds is to make sure the seeds are ready to be picked. You usually pick seeds once they have crossed the eating stage. You want to make sure the seeds are ripe. Second step is to pick the seeds. Most plants you can use common sense on how to extract the seeds. Some of the trickier plants such as tomatoes and squash require a different method. Remove the seeds along with the plant gel. Place in a cup of water and after a few days the seeds will separate. After you remove the seeds, make sure to dry completely. I like to place on a paper towel for about 5 days. After your seeds are dried, place in an air-tight container away from moisture. I like to use food saver bags and remove all the air.

Testing Your Saved Seeds
Since heirlooms are not as productive as the hybrid seeds, you want to test your seeds before you plant them. The easiest way to do this is, place 20 seeds in a moist paper towel. You want to keep the paper towel moist for 5 to 10 days. You can do this by putting it in a sealed tupperware or jar. Keep everything at room temperature, with no major temperature fluctuations. Between 7 and 10 days, take the towel out and count the seeds that germinated. If more than 75% of the seeds germinated, you should be good to plant the seeds at their normal spacing. If 50% to 75% of the seeds germinated, plant the seeds a little thicker than normal. If less than 50% of the seeds germinated, you probably have bad seeds.

One of my favorite places to buy heirloom seeds, is from the Seed Savers Exchange: http://www.seedsavers.org/

Now, go out there and start making family traditions!

A useful tool in planting one or two months before season is a greenhouse. A greenhouse can provide a great seeding bed for your early to mid season vegetables. Built correctly, a greenhouse can be used year-round for bountiful harvests.

Here in Eastern Tennessee, we decided to build a 9-month greenhouse. We used some base plans that the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service created. Our primary use is to get our cool season vegetables started a few weeks in advance. For this, we used 6-mil clear plastic. Total on all the supplies was around $200. This was using pressure-treated wood and purchasing all the materials, rather than using scraps around the house.

Link to Plans: Greenhouse Plans

Highlights of Greenhouse Build

First step was to till the soil, where the greenhouse is going to sit. We did a 15×20 area to give extra room if needed. Depending on what type of vegetables you will be planting, you can add your fertilizers and composts to the soil at this time.

Next, we rolled out the plastic sheeting (6mil) and laid the ground of the greenhouse. We laid plastic on the bottom to keep out bugs and weeds. You can leave the bottom open if you prefer.

Building the base side walls of the greenhouse is very easy. At this point, you still have the flexibility to center the foundation in the middle of your tilled soil.

Here we tucked the floor layer of plastic to the side walls. We used a staple gun to tack the plastic to the outside of the wall.

Next, we cut and glued the pvc pieces together. You can by the pvc in 10 foot pieces or you can cut them yourself.

Next, we just laid the pvc section on top of the base of the greenhouse.

Here is the tricky part. If you have two people, this should be a piece of cake. To lift the pvc with one person, the best way is to put the corners inside and walk the rest of the legs to the inside.

Now, you go along and attach each leg to the outside wall, with the clamps.

We preferred to build the end pieces separately, then attach to the base. You will also want to attach the tops of them to the pvc. You can do this by using a thin metal plate and bending it around the pvc, attaching each side to the top board.

Next, we placed the top plastic piece on the pvc. This is best if you can do it in one piece, rather than seeming multiple pieces together. After you have the plastic on, go around and tack it to the base wall with a staple gun. Make sure it is tight.

Here is an inside picture of the greenhouse. Look at how the back wall plastic is tucked. We decided to fold rather than cut this end piece.

Here we have attached the door we made separately. We double paned the door with plastic, just in case we puncture it with anything.

This is a flap we created to keep seal the gap between the door and the framing. We made the door just a few inches shorter, for a specific reason. After the weather warms up, you can remove this flap and allow insects to come in and do their magic.

Same type of flap on the bottom of the door. We did this to seal the greenhouse as tight as possible.

Here is a picture of the greenhouse door latch.

Overall, this was a fun and exciting project to tackle. You can complete this size of greenhouse in about a day, with one person. Thanks to the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service for their plans. Good luck with your greenhouse and remember to plan everything out before you get started!

Making the right choice in a backcountry tent requires an honest consideration of its intended use (including potential worst-case scenarios), budget, and plain old-fashioned horse sense. The choices can seem endless, but in the end, the perfect tent for you is out there. You just need to find it. So read on. Your research starts right here.

For starters, we are not talking here about budget or mid-level tents designed for low-impact family excursions to the local lake, or to provide shade at a city-park barbeque. What we’re considering here are tents intended to be used as the primary means of shelter in a wilderness or semi-wilderness setting, possibly for days on end.

They are two different animals, and if you’ve been relying on the Thrift-o-mart version for serious backcountry excursions, let me mildly suggest that you’re a few bricks shy of a full load!

In addition, keep in mind that even the sturdiest of tents are constructed of nothing more than fancy sticks and fabrics, easily rendered unusable by a variety of factors, including wild animals, pilot error (ripstop melts really fast!), severe weather, and wear and tear, among other things. It goes without saying that proper backcountry survival skills are a must before venturing far from civilization.

That stated, by far the biggest factors to consider in the choice of a backcountry tent are the time and place in which you intend to use it. Many folks have the budget and inclination to purchase several tents, each for different uses, and that’s probably the best course if your outdoor activities are varied enough, and if your budget allows. For most, however, one good tent to cover a variety of situations is what’s on the menu. This means your one tent must be a good one!

Which leads us to crucial question number one: Will your tent see winter use?
Here’s where some good old-fashioned horse sense comes into play. Winter doesn’t just mean December 21 through March 20. If you plan on October elk hunts in the Rockies, you better believe your tent will see winter-like conditions, calendar notwithstanding. Similarly, camping at just about any season in the Pacific Northwest means rain, rain, and more rain. In both cases, a four-season or convertible tent gets the nod (we’ll delve into what each designation means shortly).

By contrast, a Sonora-desert January is chilly at night, but absent the rare thunderstorm or sandstorm, you’re not likely to see extreme winds, nor will heavy snow loads be a factor. For this type of use, a three-season tent is all you need, even in the dead of winter.

Now, before you decide that if three-season is good, four-season must be better, let’s take a look at some general features of each type and the trade-offs involved in choosing one over the other.

Three-season tents are just what the name implies - reliable three seasons out of the year. They are typically of less robust construction, employing fewer and smaller-diameter poles (usually two or three), fewer guy-out points, and lots of no-see-um netting. As a result, they are significantly lighter, more compact, and as a rule offer much more ventilation than four-season tents. All of these qualities shine during the milder months, when Mother Nature smiles upon the Earth.

The trade-offs come into play in harsher weather, when stronger winds, rain, and snow demand sturdy construction and multiple guy-outs, and extra ventilation is not so desirable. To wit, a backcountry snowstorm is no place for a lightweight, highly ventilated three-season tent.

Also, be aware that the relative spectrum of these qualities varies widely among manufacturers, even within the three-season class. For a tent that will see true backcountry use, even only three-season use, erring on the side of sturdiness at the expense of a few ounces is the wisest course.

Four-season tents, on the other hand, are much more capable of withstanding harsh weather. Most employ at least four relatively large-diameter poles; some use seven or more. Numerous guy-out points let you cinch things down further, and internal-guy systems are a boon when things get really nasty. In addition, four-season tents tend to have lower profiles to buck the wind better, and usually feature larger, sometimes pole-supported vestibules to handle your winter gear. No-see-um netting is often scarce or nonexistent.

The trade-offs are that more and thicker poles, extra fabric, and larger dimensions equate to more weight and bulk. Moreover, the lack of no-see-um netting results in reduced ventilation, a real issue in milder weather. Full-on four-season tents are often overkill for anything less than genuine winter conditions, resulting in overly heavy packs, more involved pitches, and lots of internal moisture in less demanding weather.

Bridging the gap between three- and four-season tents are the convertible tents, so called because they can be “converted” for use in varying conditions. Convertible means different things to different manufacturers, but generally convertible tents can be compared to sturdily built three-season tents, usually having three relatively large-diameter poles. Some convertibles are capable of being pitched minus various pole sections, meaning a lighter pack and a less sturdy tent in three-season mode. To augment strength, most convertibles feature internal-guy systems and numerous external guy-out loops, allowing you to stiffen things up considerably if the weather gets hairy.

A singularly attractive feature of convertible tents is the adjustable ventilation system. Most convertibles have large no-see-um panels along the roof and doors, like three-season tents. Unlike three-season’s however, the no-see-um is double-layered with zippered ripstop panels. In four-season mode, the ripstop panels remain zipped closed. In milder weather, the panels are zipped open to whatever degree conditions warrant, providing the optimum degree of ventilation. While this feature adds some ounces to the tent, it also adds so much versatility in terms of ventilation that there can be no doubt of its worth.
Truth be told, a well constructed and properly pitched and guyed convertible is plenty sturdy for virtually all winter use, and provides lots of advantages in milder weather. You won’t want one if you’re planning on summiting Everest, but in the one-tent-does-all category, a convertible is hard to beat.

This brings up critical question number two: How big a tent should you buy?
Be careful here. Manufacturers are quite liberal with their size designations. A “three-man” tent generally means that three medium-sized people can squeeze in and sleep shoulder to shoulder. Looked at another way, a tent which allocates 15 square feet to each occupant is generous by industry standards. Now consider that 15 square feet equate to a space 2 feet wide by 7 feet long with one square foot to spare. That doesn’t leave a lot of room for toiletries and a magazine, much less any squirming around. A good rule of thumb is to buy a tent one man larger than you expect to need, especially if winter camping is in the plans. Even then, you’ll learn to choose your tentmates carefully.

Also, be careful about relying on square footage alone. For one thing, the shape of the floor affects how much of that square footage is actually usable. Rectangular floors make the most efficient use of space, while hexagonal or octagonal floors, commonly seen in geodesic or dome tents, cut down on sleeping space while leaving lots of useless corners (unless you like scattered gear).

Finally, wall shape and angle also affect comfort levels. Steep walls increase interior volume and overall livability, but also result in a less aerodynamic profile and thus a less sturdy tent. Similarly, tall interior peak heights are nice but generally detract from overall stormworthiness.

Which leads us back to some horse-sense issues: What are the must-haves, and what can you do without?
For sure, get a tent with aluminum poles. Aluminum is stronger, lighter, slimmer, and more durable than old-fashioned fiberglass poles. For these reasons, virtually all good tents now employ anodized aluminum, usually Easton. Bottom line: If you’re not looking at a tent that comes standard with aluminum poles, you’re not looking at a true backcountry tent. Period.

Moving on, you’ll do well to select a tent that employs clips rather than the more traditional sleeves to hold the poles. Sleeves tend to rip over time as roughened pole tips abrade the inner-sleeve fabric, the latter usually giving way just as night approaches at your new campsite and you’re hurrying to get dinner started. As a result, a sleeved tent often requires two careful persons to pitch correctly and safely, especially as the tent gets older.
More importantly, sleeves create isolated pockets of air between the tent body and the fly. Since very little air circulates in these pockets, condensation is exacerbated. It has been claimed that sleeves make a tent sturdier. Whether this is true even initially is debatable, but there is no question that, over time, sleeves deteriorate relatively quickly, generally being one of the first areas to give out on a tent.

By contrast, clips make pitching a one-man breeze. Just anchor the pole tips in the tent loops, snap the clips to the poles, and presto. Just as important, clips allow air to circulate between the tent body and the fly virtually unimpeded. Finally, clips are stronger, often lighter, and much more durable. Go with clips.

Another must-have is a generous vestibule. While a few trash bags will protect a whole bunch of stuff from the elements, things like boots, a change of clothes, headlamps, toiletries and reading material, not to speak of pooch, belong at close quarters. A vestibule allows you to maximize your tent space while still keeping some essentials indoors where you need them.

Pole-supported vestibules add welcome volume, but also add extra weight. On four-season tents, a pole-supported vestibule makes sense to hold cold-weather gear. For three-seasons or convertibles, you might do just fine with a non-pole-supported vestibule (which are fully enclosed). Forget awnings (which are not).

A final must-have is a groundcloth, or footprint. Whether you use an army-surplus tarp or a factory footprint designed to your tent’s specifications, you’ll want to avoid an early grave for your investment by protecting the floor from abrasion. Make-do tarps are usually cheaper, but are also generally quite heavier and bulkier. Factory footprints are cut specifically for your tent’s floor (an important detail, because tarps that extend beyond the floor edge collect rainwater and funnel it under your tent–tent floors should always overhang footprints by at least two inches!). They are usually lighter and more compact, and facilitate pitching by employing the proper hardware.

A most desirable feature on larger tents is two doors. Besides increasing ventilation, a back door is highly useful when Mother Nature calls. You won’t want to crawl through lots of gear in the vestibule, nor over sleeping tentmates, to get out. In addition, when the weather is nasty, opening the lee-side door helps keep the inside of the tent dry.

Some of the best tent manufacturers now offer factory seam taping, which eliminates the need to silicone seal all of the rainfly seams on your new tent. Experience has shown that factory seam sealing is often superior to home sealing jobs. If your chosen tent comes with factory seam sealing, consider yourself a step ahead.

Beyond these, different manufacturers offer proprietary features with varying degrees of usefulness. Devices that lock pole intersections offer significantly increased tent strength while adding negligible weight. Hook-and-ladder clips to attach the rainfly to the tent body are handy and add strength. Reflective guy-out loops are unbelievably reassuring when you need to find camp in the dark. Interior “clotheslines” are a good place to hang soggy socks and gloves. Aftermarket stakes are a wise investment. Some manufacturers even offer deluxe features for the truly indulgent, like overhead gearlofts and hanging coffee mug holders.

In the end, make sure that you consider the type of use and the number of people the tent will need to handle. Factor in a sensible weight-versus-strength analysis, keeping in mind that Mother Nature has a funny way of getting wicked when you’re least prepared. Then look for all of the non-negotiable features above. Expect to pay anywhere from $200.00 to $600.00 for a top-quality tent, and be skeptical of the too-good-to-be-true deal.
Remember. Your life may depend on it.

Option one is to take the muzzleloader out to a safe spot and fire away. I have heard of many guys who have kept their black-powder’s loaded for long periods of time and then go out and shoot them with no problem.

Your other option is take apart your 50 cal and manually remove the projectile and powder/pyrodex. If you are shooting a lead ball they make a type of attachment for your ramrod that you can screw into the projectile and pull out. I just did the same thing about a month ago and pushed my ramrod from the muzzle side of the gun out the back, removing both the pyrodex and projectile, although I have to admit I was a little “gun shy” about doing that. That powder is like a solid gasoline ready to ignite if properly provoked. I made sure to stand clear of that barrel while pushing through. Part of me thought it would probably be safer to just go out and shoot the thing.

In the end it’s got to be a call that you make. I know this doesn’t directly answer your question, but you know your gun better than anyone else does. Also, it may not be a bad idea to see what the manufacturer of your muzzleloader recommends. Just remember that safety is your number one priority!

Great question Scott. All hikers should carry with them some form of skin protectant that will easily adhere to the area of problem.  The best material I have used, is called Mole Skin.  You can find products like this in any pharmacy. Usually Walmart has the mole skin in the pharmacy isle.  Also, most first aid kits will have this or some type of band aid if nothing else.  I would place this on your foot as soon as you feel a “hot spot” coming on.  Also try buying some new insoles to see if this helps.  Remember that your feet are your best friend when hiking long journeys in any terrain.  Take good care of them!

-  Zach

Ask ten different people what they think of when they hear the word “hunter” and you’ll likely get ten varied responses. The answers will range from “gun sling’in hillbillies” to “true sportsmen” to “Bambi killers”.

Everyone has some sort of perception of what a hunter is. Some perceptions are based on loose stereotypes and others are based on solid experience. My concern is that there are far too many people basing their appraisals of hunters and hunting on vague generalizations of popular culture. No, I don’t think that everyone out there in the general public is an anti-hunting activist that is trying to bring down the sport of hunting. Quite the opposite actually. I believe the real problem is a lack of knowledge relating to a vast majority of the population that has never learned about or been associated with hunting. These false perceptions, however innocent they may be, can largely affect the future of conservation, wildlife management, and hunting through legislation that stands on ignorance.

The Truth

Experience has shaped my view of a hunter as someone who is generally a good person. Sure, I’ve had my share of run-ins with the ornery or territorial hunter, and even a couple of overzealous conservation officers. Who hasn’t? These experiences, however, are by far the exception.

Over the years I’ve had the opportunity to connect with tons of hunters who have shared tips, ideas, hunting hot spots, and even lunch. I’ve met complete strangers, hunted with them for a day, and called them friend at the end of it. And you better believe that when someone in my hunting crew tags out, I’m almost just as excited as if I had harvested the deer myself. It’s part of our hunting culture and heritage. Generally, hunters want to see each other succeed. There’s nothing like taking part in a heart-thumping whitetail harvest, whether you are the harvester, the cameraman, or the “field dressing assistant.” We root each other on and it’s in our blood. Again, I’m not saying that every hunter out there is a saint…we’ve each got our own problems. But the generosity and sportsmanship, in my experience, completely eclipses the negative.

Hunter’s contribution to each other and society doesn’t stop with their hearts though. It is largely followed up by substantial action with their time and money. In 2006 hunters contributed more than 280 million dollars to conservation groups such as Ducks Unlimited, the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation, and Pheasants Forever. Annually over 1.2 billion dollars are collected through state hunting and fishing licenses which helps state wildlife agencies acquire, maintain, and improve fish and wildlife habitat through the North American Wetlands Conservation Act and other programs (National Geographic Nov. 2007). You see the success of conservation and wildlife management is largely carried out on the backs of these “gun sling’in hillbillies.”

The Fix

I can’t give an answer that completely encompasses and solves the ignorance issues of popular culture when it comes to the perception of today’s hunter. If I could I’d probably be working as a lobbyist for the NRA. We hunters, however, can take action in a couple of areas that if done collectively as a hunting community, will preserve our sport for generations to come. We must be armed with knowledge and readily speak it to those who have misperceptions. Be ready to share personal experiences of hunter benevolence, whether it is from the heart or the wallet. Know that wildlife conservation and management largely exist due to the sport itself. And finally, take someone hunting. There’s no greater advocate for our sport than the individual who just found out what it’s all about.

Jamion, the three things to remember about backpacking are: weight, weight, and weight! You want to pack as light as possible, but still have the items you need. There are a few mandatory items you never want to go without. I have gone in on a day trip and lost my way around, turning into an overnight trip. You always want to be prepared for anything that could happen, because sooner or later it will. For day trips I can usually carry everything within 10 to 12 pounds. For overnight, you will probably double that.

If you go with friends, it helps to plan out your pack lists in advance. You can save on weight by distributing the load. You can always carry 2 of everything, just in case. Besides the clothing aspect of your trip you can have a perfect pack with everything you need, for around $200.

Below is my pack list. You may click on the items to see the actual products I use, or just print the list off for your next trip. Be safe and always over prepare!

Below is a list of mandatory items to bring on every backpacking trip, whether a day trip or overnight:
• Pack - Kelty Red Cloud 5000 Backpack
• Hiking boots - The difference in a good and bad pair of boots, is a broken ankle!
• Emergency blanket - Coghlan’s Emergency Blanket
• Trioxane tabs - used by the military, great for starting fires
• Water proof matches/lighter
• Flashlight/extra batteries/extra bulb - Browning Black Ice 5 LED Headlamp
• Compass - Silva Polaris Compass
• Map of area
• Water bottles (2) - Narrow-Mouth Lexan Water Bottle (32oz)
• Water purifier or purification tabs - Katadyn Hiker Pro Microfilter
• TP inside waterproof bag - zip lock bags work great
• Multi-purpose Knife - Buck Multi-Function
• Pocket sized mirror - Coghlan’s Featherweight Mirror
• Food - pack as if you are going overnight
• Wire ties - just in case you need to attach that knife to a stick and make a spear
• Safety pins
• Lightweight first aid kit - Bass Pro Shops First Aid Kit
• Parachute rope - I like to carry 20′ to 30′

Add these items if you are going overnight:
• Sleeping Bag - Paul Bunyan 10 Degree Bag
• Lightweight tent - Bass Pro Shops Hiker
• Backpacking stove/extra parts - MSR PocketRocket Stove
• Stove fuel
• Mess kit/utensils

Optional Items:
• Hiking sticks -
• Camera/film - You never know what kind of wildlife you might see
• Toothbrush/toothpaste
• Flare gun/flares
• Sleeping pad - Therm-A-Rest Fast and Light Series ProLite 4
• Pack lantern
• Small sewing repair kit
• Wire saw - Coghlan’s Pocket Saw
• Insect repellant
• Hand gun - If gun laws/seasons permit
• Journal
• Brilo pad - for cleaning
• Mole skin - for blisters
• Basic survival book - small compact book
• Watch
• Small Tarp

Weather dependent items:
Cold weather
• Fleece or wool jacket - Fleece helps with the wind, wool is preferred for the warmth
• Long under wear - 2 tops & 1 bottom, I prefer polypropylene
• Wool socks - 2 pair
• Wool gloves
• Wool beanie
• Lip Balm - I prefer the ones with sunscreen

Rainy Weather
• Rain poncho - I like the really light, inside the pouch kind

Tips for backpacking:
• Always let 2 people know where you are going and when you will be returning.
• It helps to purchase a topographic map of the area and become familiar with it, before you start your trip.
• Get a journal; keep a log of where you go. It’s always fun looking back years later to remember your adventures!

Check out my profile and view my pack list, here.

- Josh