askRuth

America's Test Kitchen -How to do Stuffed Chicken Breasts

2011-03-11T04:30:00.000-08:00

I always love the tips on America's Test Kitchen. Check out this video on how to make a lovely Stuffed Chicken Breasts - filling: leeks, mushrooms & ground chicken. It's awesome.

Onions of All Shapes and Sizes

2011-02-07T06:39:00.000-08:00

I recently was asked which onions to use when. I stumbled across this great video tutorial at Cook's Illustrated's Test Kitchen.

Naturally I had to add my two cents worth...

Leeks - only use the white and pale green parts. They're hardier than other onions, so they work best in soups & stews. Cleaning tips from a Jamie Oliver episode I saw...

Slice through the leek lengthwise starting just below the hairy roots. You don't want the leek to completely fall apart before rinsing.

Carefully rinse the sand from them, holding the hairy part closest to the tap so that the sand runs down and doesn't accumulate in the delicious white part.
Red onions are usually sweet and can be cooked or eaten raw in salads or sliced. I love them topping a burger or with bagels, lox & cream cheese.
Yellow onions (the ones most commonly found in supermarkets) are the most versatile. And they make the best caramelized onions that are so important, especially in my favorite French Onion Soup. They are one part of French, Italian and New Orleans "trilogy" - along with carrots & celery to flavor roasts, stews.

Green onions or scallions or Spring onions are very mild and can be eaten raw - I love them thinly sliced or chopped and sprinkled over Asian dumpling soups. I even love them quickly grilled on the barbecue to accompany some grilled chicken or beef.

Shallots are my newest love of the onion family. I finely chop them to make awesome vinaigrettes and caramelize them for so many dishes. When cooked slowly they are as sweet as candy.

Chives - almost garlic-tasting, and when finely chopped are the perfect addition to great mashed potatoes.

If you have any other suggestions, please leave a comment.

Preserving Techniques

2010-06-10T04:12:00.000-07:00

Admittedly, preserving fruits and vegetables scares me. I'm always sure I'm going to poison everyone I love. So when my daughter decided to plant a garden this year and plans to do a lot of preserving, I thought I'd do a little research and get prepared to help her...and reap the rewards....lots of jars of Jellies, Jams & Chutneys, to start.

I will be writing much more about preserving, but to get us all off to a great start, here are the supplies to have at hand, according to Thane Prince, author of Jellies, Jams & Chutneys:
Preserving Pot:

should be wider than it is tall. This conducts heat quickly, so that the jam or jelly reduces fast, retaining it's fresh flavor and boils rapidly, which enables it to achieve a "set";

for chutneys and relishes, it's important that the pot has a heavy base for even heat;

use stainless steel or enameled pans, avoiding aluminum, as this reacts with the acids in fruit and vinegar.

Measuring equipment:

scales for accurate weighing of fruit, vegetables and sugar;

1 quart/litre measuring cup plus 2 cup measuring jug;

spoon measures for accurate weighing of spices

Graters & Sieves:

microplane graters for ginger, garlic and zest;

food mill, for grating vegetables;

sieve to remove seeds from jam, if desired

Spoons:

Jam Funnel - try to find a wide mouth funnel making it easier to fill the jars

Jelly Bags & Stand:

(more about that later, but you can purchase them as a set);

or improvise with a fine sieve lined with double thickness of cheesecloth; Wash and scald bags, muslin, cheesecloth before use;

When dry, press with a hot iron to sterilize.

Containers & Covers:

Jars must be scrupulously lean and sterilized before use;

Dishwasher set on hot, fulfills requirements, so run it through the cycle just before potting;

Alternatively, wash jars in hot, soapy water, rinse well and drain until nearly dry. Put in a cold oven and heat at 300F/150C for 10-15 minutes.

Olive oil and vinegar bottles, well washed, dried and sealed with a lined screwtop or cork are good for flavored vinegars;

lids with vinegar proof inner plastic or rubber rings are best all-around covers;

lids with no inner rings may be used for vinegar-free preserves;

jars can be sealed with cellophane covers (no, this is not plastic wrap)- dip each cover in water. Place damp side down, over the jar. Stretch cellophane tightly, holding it in place with a rubber band. Top with waxed paper circle first cut to fit the top of the jar. Place directly on hot preserve. Screw on the lid or stretch over the cellophane cover.

Stay tuned for more tips here and more recipes here. First simple recipe is for Chef Craig's Amazing Pickled Beets and is pictured above. I can't wait for my trip to the market this Saturday. I saw lots of bunches of young carrots last week, so I'm sure to score big!

Converting Fresh Fenugreek Leaves to Dried

2010-05-28T04:05:00.000-07:00

I received a plea for help from a reader and, although I've given the generic response, I'm wondering if any of you have a more definitive answer for Phil.

Phil: ....for advice on dried-vs-fresh fenugreek/methi conversions. I'm hoping you can help me in this regard: a chicken fenugreek recipe I've found calls for "a bunch" of fresh leaves...what might that be in "dried" terms?

Ruth: Like any fresh to dried substitution, it's 1 tablespoon of fresh leaves to 1 teaspoon of dried. I'm not sure what an actual "bunch" of fresh fenugreek looks like, because that depends on the time of year, the shop you're buying them at.... Sometimes bunches large, other times small. So I suggest starting with 1 tablespoon of dried fenugreek leaves, let it simmer in the sauce for a couple of minutes, taste and add more as you need, adding only 1 tsp at a time and letting it simmer before tasting and adding more.

More Tips on Herbs

2010-04-14T06:16:00.000-07:00

I've shared a few tips about herbs before....especially about keeping fresh ones fresh longer and drying your fresh herbs.

And now that I have a lovely new book The Cook's Herb Garden and want to share a few things I found really interesting, not to mention the fantastic recipes like the rub I used to make Roasted Lamb with Oregano, Citrus & Rosemary Rub.

Probably the most frustrating part about buying fresh herbs is that they should be used quickly or will lose their wonderful fragrance...the reason we use them in the first place. I'm sure I'm not alone in needing a scant tablespoon or two of dill only to find a bunch that would keep a restaurant kitchen in business for a month.

Here are some great tips to extend the life of your cut herbs.

Short term Storage in the fridge:
Chopped herbs will save you prep time, especially if you're cooking for a crowd or making a few dishes that need last minute cooking (stir frying for example).
1. Rinse, drain and gently pat dry whole herbs.

2. Chop and place in small dishes or bowls.

3. Cover with dampened paper towels and chill for up to 3 days. If you need to store longer, cover with an additional layer of plastic wrap.

Whole herbs in the fridge:
1. Rinse, drain and gently pat dry.

2. Dampen a sheet of paper towel, squeeze out excess water and flatten. The damp towel prevents the herbs from drying out.

3. Fold and wrap the paper towel loosely around the stems or around the whole sprig.

4. Slip the wrapped herbs in a freezer bag, flatten gently to remove some of the air. Seal the bag and chill in the fridge for up to a week. And if you're lucky enough to have a local farmers market with a vendor or two that sells herbs - usually picked the day before, they'll last even longer.

Freezing herbs:
Most herbs will keep their flavour when frozen, but will not look very pretty. So they are best used in salad dressings, sauces, stuffings, soups and other slow cooked dishes.

Here are a few options:
Herb oil mix -
1. Coarsely chop the herbs in a food processor. With the motor running, add just enough olive oil to lightly coat the herbs (about 1 tbsp oil to 3 tbsp herbs)

2. Spoon the mixture into small freezer bags and seal securely. Or my favorite way...use Glad seal n press wrap...lay one sheet flat, spoon 1 tbsp portions of the herb mix over top, leaving about 1-2 inches between portions. Lay a second layer of wrap over top and seal around each portion. Then place in a zip lock freezer bag, label and store for up to 4 months.

Herb Ice Cubes - best for soups or other hot liquids.
1. Finely chop individual types of herbs or your favorite blend.

2. Fill an ice cube tray to the brim with herbs and pour some water over top - just enough to cover. Freeze until solid (about 2 hours).

3. Pop the frozen cubes out and lip into freezer bags. Seal, label and freeze for up to 6 months.

Please share your favorite ways in the comments.

Salad Dressing Tips

2010-04-06T07:23:00.000-07:00

I recently got a new cookbook - Salad Dressing 101: Dressings for All Occasions. I do make a good vinaigrette, changing up my oils and vinegars to match the rest of the meal, but somehow, I find myself falling into a rut. The intro is so great, I thought I'd share some of Nathan Hyam's tips with you.

"...it's best to remember that (the dressing) is really a seasoning meant to enhance the main ingredients. It should augment their flavors, not overpower them....

1. Transluscent mixtures of oil and vinegar, with added taste elements such as herbs, are best when paired with leafy greens.

2. Creamy dressings with their thicker texture are ideal with heavier ingredients like vegetables, pastas, grains or potatoes and meats.

3. Vinaigrettes (from the French vin aigre "sour wine") are very versatile and can be used to dress most types of salads. "

Key things to remember: flavor & texture of the salad ingredients, plus what ever else you're serving along with the salad. For more about the book and a couple of the recipes I've tried so far...check here.

Spring is here...and so are local baby greens and fresh herbs...have fun with your salad and leave any tip you might have in the comments.

Cooking With Kids - Some Advice from Robin Hood Flour

2010-03-22T08:41:00.000-07:00

If you love baking with kids...or are just thinking about it...check out Robin Hood Flour's Baking With Kids site. There are wonderful recipes, and great tips for making it fun and easy.

Boil, Poach or Simmer?

2010-03-12T03:22:00.000-08:00

If you're like most of us, you don't give this much thought. If you're in a hurry...you turn up the heat. But this fabulous video lesson from Rouxbe will change your mind.

Bottom line...boiling draws out moisture. So it's best to simmer or poach meat and chicken. The results, while taking a few minutes longer will result in juicier meat. Ever wonder why sometimes your chicken from your chicken soup is rubbery? Chances are it's because you let the water boil, thinking it will absorb more nutrients and flavor into the broth. Remember that slower, is better.

But not everything should be simmered...pasta needs boiling water from the start, and according to Jamie Oliver, potatoes do best when dropped into boiling water too. Rice, on the other hand gets put into a pot of cold water, brought to a boil, and then reduced to low (simmer) to absorb the water and make the rice tender without turning to mush.

Great How-To-Cook Video Site

2010-03-06T06:41:00.001-08:00

I love it when I find a great resource on the web and this time it's wonderful tips on everything food preparation, each with a video tutorial - including BBQ tips, How to make creme brulee(my favorite on first run through), soups, sauces, vegetables, meat...or, as I said at the beginning...EVERYTHING.

So without further ado, check it 101 Best Cooking Videos with lots of famous chefs, like Gordon Ramsey and less well known, but equally awesome culinary school chefs. If there's a cooking question, I think you'll find the answer here.

How to Sear Scallops

2010-02-11T06:24:00.000-08:00

I love scallops, but it was years before I got up the courage to cook them properly....meaning I had to enjoy them when eating out, I knew they had to cook quickly...but what did that mean? I certainly didn't want to ruin them.

So for a very simple how to, there really are only four things to do...

1. Dry the scallops thoroughly, many experts call for "dry" scallops, meaning they haven't been soaked in a sodium solution before arriving at your fishmonger/grocery store. I get mine at the farmers market and I know they're really fresh, so I don't ask...perhaps I should anyway.

If they are not dry, there is a tendency for the scallops to release the liquid preventing a good sear.

Note: Even "dry" scallops need to be patted down with a paper towel before adding them to a hot pan.

2. Important: BEFORE searing the scallops....since it's such a quick process - about one minute per side, the trick is to have all the ingredients handy for the sauce (whatever you choose). Just remember that simple is best when it comes to dressing/sauce for scallops, so as not to overpower that heavenly, sweet richness of the scallops.

3. Sear the scallops in a hot pan so that the outsides get a lovely crisp, brown crust and the insides remains tender and creamy. This really only takes 1-2 minutes per side. More equals rubbery and dry - not what you want in a scallop.

But let me explain ...

Place a nonstick pan over medium high heat for a minute or so...you should be able to feel the heat on your hand suspended about 1-2" over the pan.
Add the fat - olive oil or oil and butter. The oil is hot when you add a drop of liquid and it sizzles; the oil and butter mix is hot when the butter stops foaming.
Don’t crowd the pan — There should be enough room between the scallops so that they sizzle rather than steam to get a good crust. That means you might have to do them in batches, but worth it to get that dark crisp crust.
They’re done when they feel barely firm to the touch, and when you cut into one, it should be faintly opalescent. Don’t overcook them or they’ll be dry and rubbery.

4. Transfer the seared scallops to a platter and quickly prepare the sauce in the same pan. Or you could just add a squeeze a little lemon juice, some freshly ground black pepper and perhaps your favorite chopped fresh herb (basil is mine).

Enjoy!

More Help for Oven Cleaning

2009-12-07T11:13:00.000-08:00

Yet another of my readers has an issue with cleaning her oven. This time it's a convection oven that she tried to "protect", but I'll let her tell her story...

"I have a new kitchen aide convection oven with blue enamel inside. I thought I was being smart by putting a non-stick spillmatt by Regency Wrap on the bottom of my oven to keep it nice and clean. It was great for a month, then one day I noticed the mat had turned white in the middle and burned onto the bottom of my oven.
I now have a big white spot on the bottom.
I used all I had available and poured apple cider vinegar on it several times....with
some scrubbing I was able to remove some of it but not all of it...yet. I was hoping you had some extra tips or heard of this before and could help. Do you think it will ever all come off?"

So I did a little Google searching of my own and found these ideas that hopefully will help her out...and the rest of us too, for that matter.

First I want to say that I've never used a convection oven, so it was fun trying to find a solution and if anyone out there can help, please leave a comment.

One link suggested steaming a lemon in the oven at high heat

Another suggested using Murphy Oil Soap and water. I think I might have to try some of that for my "self cleaning" - I use the term loosely conventional oven that leaves stains and burnt on grease, etc., on the front edge of the oven and on the door.

This ammonia trick might help us both as well.

Stress Reducing Tips for the Holidays

2009-11-15T05:07:00.000-08:00

Just to prove my point...I was so caught up with everything else going on around here, I missed the opportunity to share some stress reducing pre holiday tips before U S Thanksgiving Day. That said, December and January are packed with holiday events. No matter which ones you celebrate, the challenges are the same....too little time, too much to do. With questions like, when do I start?...WHERE do I start?...what was I thinking?!!!!

I thought I'd share some of my tips for making life easier. The best piece of advice, of course, is PLAN AHEAD. Something we'd all love to do, but somehow life gets in the way. I've divided my stress reducing tips into two categories - the BIG party and the IMPROMPTU get-together.

The two biggest tips I can give, regardless of type...CHOOSE SIMPLE RECIPES and MAKE LISTS:

lists for guests (with phone numbers, in case there are changes/questions like allergies, etc),

lists of party supplies - from plates to party hats,

menu options,

ingredients/shopping list,

and, schedule, which really doesn't need to be complicated or so detailed as to require a stop watch - just a rough guide for which things need to/can be done in sequence. For instance, some dishes require last minute preparation (keep those to a minimum, unless part of the event is having others help out in the kitchen...I love doing that. Everyone really gets in the groove in a kitchen, even the non-cooks congregate to chat). Other things can be done well in advance, like finding all your party supplies and baking/freezing some of the dishes to be defrosted the day of the party.

Now I can see you hyperventilating, but just relax, have a cup of tea, put your feet up for five minutes and read my ideas for scheduling, etc....
For the Big Party1. Invite your guests early - remember that they might end up accepting another invitation when they'd much rather spend the time with you. Don't forget to ask if they have any food allergies or preferences. If you know someone is vegetarian, for example, you can add some vegetarian main so they're not just eating veggie sides. After all, you want them to feel welcome, too.

2. Once you've done the inviting, it's time to plan the menu. Decide if it will be a sit down or buffet affair.

3. Plan the menu. I like to change things up when I entertain...some tried and true that everyone loves, along with interesting new dishes. If you want to add something you've never tried before, make sure you do a test run early. Nothing like a flop to really stress you out!

I like to put on some old movie and bring a bazillion cookbooks to look through, finding recipes that go with my theme and make a note of any/all that sound promising - along with page numbers and title of book. I can't tell you how many times the menu changes in the choosing stage and then when you think you've got it all together, you forgot exactly where the recipes come from. Been there, done that...more time than I care to count.

4. Check to make sure you have all the serving dishes, tableware - dishes, cutlery, glasses, tablecloths, etc. If you don't have enough, that doesn't mean you have to go shopping...although that is fun. You can ask friends and family for loaners - from extra chairs to anything else missing from your list.

5. The biggie...the Schedule...sounds awesome, but doesn't have to be. I like to make a simple grid to start.

Then I look at the menu, and starting backwards from serving time...I jot down what needs to be done when. Still staring at this like a deer in the headlights? No worries. I'll share one I did for this year's Rosh Hashanah (Jewish New Year) dinner.
You'll be looking cool and relaxed...honest!

Now for some stress reducing tips for those impromptu gatherings.

This past Thanksgiving, our friends unexpectedly got back from out West the day before the big day and, since we didn't have any plans either, we decided to do a simple, joint dinner. Rick made the turkey (already stuffed when he bought it frozen and popped it into the oven still frozen in the early AM), Colleen made the gravy, I made the mashed potatoes and sides and they bought a pumpkin pie for dessert. My Honey (in the middle) bought the wine. All in all a very easy, perfectly stress-free event.

But my biggest tip for those last minute, drop by evenings...have stuff on hand! Right, you're thinking...stuff like what????!
Pantry:
pasta (because nothing cooks up quicker as a main course - check out the easy as pie pastas for simple and quick choices)
crackers - great for cheese & wine
tostitos (I like multigrain) perfect for dips
jars/tins of : salsas, chickpeas & tahina (which whip up into a hummus in minutes), sun dried tomatoes in oil (perfect for bruschettas, pastas, pizza)
broth: chicken &/or vegetable
Fridge:
eggs (nothing easier than an omelet or scramble after a late night out or before an early start)
cheeses...whatever you like...my choices: soft goat cheese - great with crackers and make a mean grilled cheese sandwich, too;
a round of brie and any other favorite cheeses to go with crackers or sliced in a sandwich or salad salad greens
oil cured olives (great chopped on bruschettas, pizza, salads, pastas...)
pita (perfect for toasting and making pita chips, to scoop up dips, as a pita pocket sandwich)
Freezer:
cookie dough...instant heaven, just thaw, slice and bake
dumplings - to steam in some broth, or fried in oil
shrimp - I always have a bag full - thaw & peel in less than 5 minutes, great in a quick stir fry, with pasta, in a scramble, salad...list is endless
if you have room, pick up your favorite ready made appetizers, every large grocery store has their own brands.

Add to the list any of your favorite things...even if that just includes chips, pop & beer.

Most important of all....take a deep breath and relax...it's just a party and everyone there is there to be with you, not critique the menu!

Happy Holidays all. If you have a great stress-reducing tip, please share in the comments.

Marcy Goldman's Three Tricks of the Baking Trade

2009-11-08T08:44:00.001-08:00

Marcy Goldman (you might know her from her very successful baking site BetterBaking) has a new baking book out The New best of BetterBaking.com and it's fantastic. You can check out my review and a couple of recipes, but I'm here to share her three most important tricks of baking:

1. Double your baking sheets. The bottom sheet insulates the top one and dispenses the heat evenly. If you're baking in a loaf pan...place it on a baking sheet to create the same insulating effect. Place a sheet of parchment, not just on the top sheet for easy cleanup, but on the bottom sheet as well. Apparently it modifies the heat of the metal baking pan.

2. Large plastic bags make great proofing tents. Use large clear plastic bags (like the ones for leaf or recycling collection). It's great for brad rising. Just slip the rising bowl, formed loaves or sheet of rolls into the bag and seal it lightly. It creates a tent ensuring proper humidity and protection from drafts. No more sticky towels.

3. Use nonstick spray on rising dough to preserve the moist surface.

If you have a baking tip to share, please leave it in the comments.

Baking with Butter

2009-11-05T05:43:00.000-08:00

I've already given some tips on baking with eggs and now it's time to learn a little about butter.

But before I even start...let me mention that when you plan on sauteing with butter, it's important to add your butter to a COLD pan. Unlike oils, which, with a high burn factor (meaning it takes extremely high heat without burning) can be added to a hot pan to sear meat or do a quick stir fry, butter, on the other hand, is delicate and burns easily. Add it to a hot pan...instant burnt butter! So...add butter to a cold pan, turn the heat on low at first and watch the butter melt. Don't rush it! Burnt butter tastes...well...burnt!

As you can tell from the above, temperature is key to using butter. Of course, there's cold Vs room temperature issue. So let's start there. "Room Temperature" is NOT the temperature of your room. Depending on which expert you listen to...it's 68-72°F/20-22°C. So how can you tell when it's reached room temperature? It's soft enough to leave an imprint when you press on it...think fresh play-doh. It is soft enough to mold and still hold its shape. It can take from 15-30 minutes from the time you take it out of the fridge...depending, of course on how hot/cold your room is.

Here are some general tips on butter from one of my favorite bakers:

Dorie Greenspan, in Baking From my home to yours has a lot to say about butter....

"When a recipe calls for butter...never substitute for anything else...

Use unsalted butter for baking - it gives you control over the amount of salt in a recipe and has a distinctive taste and texture...

Easiest way to butter a pan...use softened butter applied with either a paper towel, the wrapping from the butter or a pastry brush...

Storing butter: as it's a magnet for strong odors, always wrap it and keep it in the fridge or freezer...

Other tips: always used room temperature butter when a recipe calls for 'creaming' - combining butter, sugar and eggs to a golden, creamy mixture...

Use frozen butter to grate into flour mixtures for lightness - great for scones etc., when you want to leave air pockets during baking.

All About Eggs for Baking

2009-11-01T05:02:00.000-08:00

I confess...I'm more of a cook than a baker...to say nothing about the fact that I've never done well with science. I was the girl who almost blew up the chem lab in high school.

So I need all the help I can get when it comes to the chemistry aspect of baking and the biggest question is always about when to keep ingredients chilled and when to let them come to room temperature...which by the way means around 72°F/22°C. So if you live in a hot climate, that probably only takes about 20 minutes.

Let's start with the EGG conundrum and I'll follow up with the butter issues next:

According to all my baking books (I'll reference them throughout), you should use the freshest LARGE eggs of the highest quality that you can find, store them in the fridge and then to get them to room temperature, leave them on the counter for 30 minutes. If you're in a hurry you can dunk them in a pot of hot water for a minute (according to Marcy Goldman's A Passion for Baking) or leave in a bowl of warm water for 10 minutes (according to Elizabeth Baird of The Complete Canadian Living Baking Book).

But...they all say that if you need to separate egg whites and yolks, it's better/easier to do that cold and keep them separate on the counter until room temperature AFTER you've separated them. The Culinary Institute of America Cookbook (one of my best reference sources) and my mother have this important tip for separating eggs. You need THREE bowls: one for the initial separation of the egg whites. If there are no bits of shell or egg yolk, or the obvious bad egg (you'll know by the smell), transfer to a clean bowl. Lastly, put the yolks in a third bowl and start the process over, each time you separate an egg, do the initial separation into the first bowl. That way, at worst, you lose only one egg and not all of them.

Beating or whipping or whisking...a whisk does aerate the best and that is what you want for egg whites to peak. It is also recommended by The Cook's Book and others that the bowl is just as important as the freshness and temperature of the eggs. Avoid plastic which can retain a grease film no matter how well you wash it. Their favorite for stable, voluminous whites is unlined copper because of some positive reaction between the whites and copper...see what I mean about chemistry?...but stainless steel or glass are fine options. A pinch of cream of tartar (my mother's choice, too) acts as a stabilizer.

Here are some other tips for awesome egg whites from The Cook's Book:

1. Make sure the inside of the bowl is spotlessly clean and free of grease. Especially if you are using copper, you may want to wipe the interior of the bowl with lemon juice or vinegar, rinse and dry thoroughly.

2. Whites will "mount" more easily if they're at room temperature.

3. When separating, take care to prevent any yolk from falling into and contaminating the whites.

4. Use a large balloon whisk which is perfectly clean.

5. Beat just until the whites are stiff but not dry.

6. Use beaten whites as soon as possible to preserve their volume.

7. You can beat egg whites with an electric mixer but NEVER A BLENDER OR FOOD PROCESSOR.

My own note...back to separating the eggs...I've watched many a chef - professional and self (or mom) taught excellent home baker. It seems there are a few different ways to do this job.

1. You could buy an egg separator and just place it over a measuring cup. The yolk will stay in the center and the whites will fall into the cup. This is when you'd move the yolk/shell free whites to one bowl and the yolks to another;

2. You could use the shell and gently move the yolk from one half to the other, over a bowl, making sure that you don't nick the yolk with a sharp edge of the shell until all the whites are in the bowl and the yolk remains in one half of the shell. This one can be tricky.

3. You could use your hand as the "separator". Just crack the egg, place one hand, palm up over a clean bowl, spread the egg shell so that the entire egg falls into your palm. Wiggle your hand so that all the whites slides through your fingers, while guarding the yolk. Not for the squeamish.

Back to yolks for a moment...there is a term I've seen often in my baking books...Tempering which is simply means the blending of ingredients of different temperatures and that you need to SLOWLY increase the heat of cold one into the hot. This is particularly critical with egg dishes...unless, of course, you like lumpy, scrambled or curdled eggs in your finished dish. Dorie Greenspan in Baking from my home to yours, has an additional important note: When egg yolks meet up with sugar (when you make cookies, for example and have to beat eggs, sugar and butter before adding dry ingredients). As soon as sugar comes in contact with yolks, it begins to "burn" the yolks...causing them to develop small lumps....to avoid this, make sure to whisk the two ingredients together as soon as they are put in the same bowl and do not allow them to sit.

Elizabeth Baird and the CL team has this to say about tempering eggs:

" If cold eggs are added to hot liquids, there is a real danger that they will cook on contact - scrambled instead of combining with liquid into a silky custard. Tempering warms up cold eggs and allows them to be incorporated into hot mixtures smoothly without curds."

The technique:
In a bowl, whisk eggs until evenly yellow.

While whisking the eggs, gradually pour in the hot liquid. The amount of liquid should be roughly half the volume of the eggs. Whisk in additional hot liquid, up to about one third of the liquid.

For creme anglaise or other stirred custards, whisk the warmed eggs and liquid back into the pan with the remaining liquid and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the custard thickens enough to cat the back of a spoon.

For baked puddings with a custard base, whisk all the hot liquid slowly into the eggs before pouring into the baking dishes.

If you have any other tips about eggs, please leave them in the comments.

Next up...all about butter.

Tips on Braising

2009-10-25T08:16:00.000-07:00

It is definitely that time of year again...brisk chill in the air, leaves turning golden, rust and brilliant red. That means it's time for hearty soups and stews.

In the most recent issue of LCBO's Food & Drink Magazine, which is hands down my favorite of all my favorite magazines. You can only find it at any Liquor Control Board of Ontario (LCBO) retail outlet. So if you don't live in Ontario, or know people who do and will save it for you...you can at least find back issue recipes on their site.

And I thought I would share Lucy Waverman's tips on braising...a "must have" list for the season, if ever there was one. Note: Lucy Waverman is the food editor of Food & Drink and author of several great cookbooks.

1. Best cuts: the tougher ones with more flavour and texture. More expensive cuts will dry out quicker...try beef chuck, shoulder, shanks, brisket and short ribs; veal shoulder and breast; pork butt and shoulder; lamb shoulder, shank & breast.

2. Choose the right size pot. Too big=gravy evaporates too quickly; too small=meat cooks unevenly. Cubed stewing meat should sit in two layers; a brisket or roast should fit snugly in the pot. Dutch ovens are perfect as they cook on the stove (searing meat and prepping veggies) and go straight into the oven. If you don't have one...and I really recommend that you do...sear and prep in a skillet and transfer to an ovenproof casserole for the roasting stage.

3. Pat meat dry with paper towels so cooking oil doesn't splatter as much. Trim most of fat and cut meat into uniform pieces for even cooking - same goes for the veggies.

4. Searing: heat just a film of oil on high heat on top of the stove. Add the meat a few pieces at a time. DO NOT USE BUTTER - it will burn on high heat. DO NOT CROWD THE PAN. It just lowers the heat and instead of sealing in all the juices, it will just produce steam creating a greyish flat stew.

5. Season the meat with salt and pepper and brown on all sides to seal in the juices. Remove the meat from the skillet set aside in a large enough bowl to hold all the meat (I prefer stainless steel to keep it hot) and repeat until all the meat is seared and dark brown. Always make sure there is a thin film of oil for each batch and that the oil is hot.

6. After the meat is all browned and removed from the pot, lower the heat to medium and add the onions, if using (this is when I like to saute chopped onions, carrots or other hard vegetables just until they soften 3-5 minutes).

7. Add the meat back into the pot, along with any liquid making sure that it comes halfway up the meat. DO NOT TOTALLY IMMERSE the meat or you will have a very weak gravy...fine if you're making soup, but not stew.

8. About liquids: beef stock, tomato juice, wine. Different liquids give different flavoured gravies. DO NOT USE WATER...it just makes an insipid, weak gravy.

9. Thickening: flour, cornstarch or arrowroot. Cornstarch and arrowroot should be mixed with water (Note: frankly I do this with flour too, or at least remove some of the liquid and blend with flour before adding back to the pot - makes it silky not lumpy).

OR: boil down the braising liquid to thicken naturally; puree braising liquid and some of the vegetables.

10. After browning, use gentle heat to cook the meat slowly (325°/160°C) or low in a slow cooker. High heat and "Fast cooking" just toughen the fibres of the meat. It's done when the meat is easily pierced with a fork (usually 2 hours for beef; 1 1/2 hours for lamb and pork.

11. Vegetables: potatoes, carrots and whole onions can be added about 45 minutes before the meat is ready; tender vegetables like zucchini, cabbage, mushrooms or peas are added just 15 minutes before the end of cooking.

12. Braises keep well and reheat beautifully. Although many recipes say they freeze well, Note: I find vegetables get quite spongy, so I usually remove large chunks and just steam some fresh for when I defrost)

Enjoy the cold weather! If you have any other braising tips, please share them in the comment section.

Testing for Freshness

2009-02-01T15:12:00.000-08:00

My daughter was cleaning out her cupboards, mostly to reorganize the space. Naturally she discovered some goodies that were well past their prime. We all have some...so I thought I'd share some tips on how to know when something is ready for the trash bin.

Dried herbs & Spices - easy, sniff and taste a tiny amount. If it's lost flavor from the get go...it won't have any in a dish. Ideally, we should mark the date we bought it right on the container. Most seasonings lose their oomph within a year.

Nuts should actually be kept in the freezer unless you are going to use them within a couple of weeks or they'll go rancid...(that weird "old" smell).

Baking powder and baking soda will look white forever and since there really isn't any taste or smell to give old, useless boxes away. Both of them are supposed to work together with flour and act sort of like yeast...expanding the dough. You really can see it working in muffins. It's why you usually add them just before baking.

Here's the real test to ensure their freshness:
Baking powder - 1 tsp in half glass of hot water - if it's fresh, it will bubble up. If not - replace it.
Baking soda's test is a little different - pour half tsp of vinegar over a little baking soda. It too will bubble up if fresh.

If you have any other tips on how to tell if things are fresh, please leave them in the comments.

You can also email me any kitchen questions you might have - ruth(at)4everykitchen(dot)com

Baked On Food on Ceramic Cooktop Stoves

2009-01-18T07:32:00.001-08:00

Recently an "In trouble Husband" wrote about a problem that I know many of us can relate to...."We were making some beer and it boiled over on the stovetop. Now its pretty baked on. How can I clean it without scraching the shiny finish". I did the same thing making a sugary syrup.

Here's what I did to recover....

1. Take the pot off the burner & turn off the element.

2. Use cloth towel to remove as much as you can while it's still liquidy.

3. Allow to cool before the next step.

4...Most tedious, but patience is a requirement!...After trying to gently scrape off as much stuck on, burnt on stuff (for lack of a better word) with a paint scraper, I tried several products. These seemed to work best. Cerama Bryte ceramic cooktop cleaner and a fantastic product from Vileda - glass/ceramic scrunge that is a sponge that with an abrasive side that doesn't scratch the glass. It's my new best friend for even simple spills.

5. Repeat step 4 a bazillion times while chanting "Ohmmmm" or some other stress relieving melody, stay calm and it will work.

If only I can find some Cerama Bryte cleaning cloths - to get rid of streaks, and their burnt on grease cleaner, I'll be happy.

If you have any other ideas for my friend and I, please leave a comment.

Conversion from Fresh to Dried Herbs

2009-01-04T06:25:00.000-08:00

It's winter, and around here, it's hard to find fresh herbs, so we often resort to dried. In fact, I just received a question from a fan, so I thought I'd share the answer with all of you.

First thing to consider though....dried herbs work best in longer cooking dishes, to allow them time to steep...like tea. In fact, I prefer to start soups, stews and oven braises with dried and, when I'm lucky enough to find some, chop some fresh herbs and add either for the last 10-15 minutes or sprinkle on just before serving.

The conversion rule of thumb is 1 tsp of dried for each tbsp of fresh. And while that's what I use as a starting point, I might add a little more dried, once the cooking process starts. Dried herbs lose their pungency over time on your shelf, so remember to taste soups, stews or roasts about 20 minutes or so after the dish starts cooking. That should allow time for the herbs to flavor the dish.

A caution: rosemary is a very strong herb, so you might want to start with a half tsp of dried for a tbsp of fresh.

Tips:
1) Rub the dried herbs between your fingers before adding to the dish to bring out the flavors;
2) For thyme, I like to leave the leaves on the stalks and put a couple of sprigs in hearty, slow cooking dishes like lentil or split pea soups, and stews with root vegetables.

Making your own dried: As you see your fresh herbs start to wilt, remove them from any packaging and let them sit on the counter or hang them in bunches upside down until they are dried. Then gently remove them from their stems and place them in a zip lock baggie or empty herb bottle.

What's your favorite tip about dried/drying herbs and what to use them in?

Where Have All the Smoked Clams Gone

2008-12-06T04:32:00.000-08:00

Recently Dana McCauley, a wonderful food writer (You can check out what I wrote about her and her latest book Dana's Top Ten Table) came to Halifax on a Cross-Canada tour (more of that on Once Upon a Feast). But that's not why I'm writing this post. A reader of her post had a question that Dana thought I might be able to answer. So for all of you Maritimers (or anyone else, for that matter)....

Kathleen, of Digby NS asked about Maritime smoked clams and where to find them. Apparently, they are (make that were) delicious and she can't find them anyhwere.

After doing all kinds of Google searches and a very early AM trip to the Halifax Farmers Market to find out the scoop from the folks who would know...I'm sorry to have to tell you that it looks like no one does it any more. I asked the man who really knows everyone in the business...Mike of Mike's Fish Shop, who sells lots of smoked fishes and Phillip Docker of Shadaph Oysters who says if Mike doesn't know, well... Philip also told me that while lots of fish & seafood producers used to smoke their goods (including Shadaph), very few still do it today.

Sorry to disappoint Kathleen, but perhaps some of my readers might know.

Can I Soften Hardened Powdered Seasonings.

2008-10-14T11:13:00.000-07:00

I was recently asked this interesting question....

"I left my home for about 4 months. When I returned many of my powdered seasonings had hardened. Onion powder, garlic powder. Is there a way to soften them or do I have to throw them out?"

First let me say that I have at least 6 cooking encyclopedias sitting on my bookshelf and I did a google search. Lots of places tell you how to soften brown sugar and regular sugar for that matter. I even shared a tip from Norene Gilletz and a couple from Waitrose...
...but nowhere do any of the experts tell you what to do with hardened powdered seasonings. So here's my two cents worth...and we all know what that buys these days.

If I have clumps in my mixed seasonings, I place it in a small tea strainer over a bowl. If it's a hard block...you might need to chip it out of the bottle with a small sharp knife.

That said, I must say that I do agree with all the experts...spices lose their potency and flavor over time.. everyone suggests marking the date on your spices when you buy them and throw them out after a year.

The other thing I suggest is to "toast" your spices before using them (even ground ones). Use a nonstick skillet/ fry pan..and over medium heat toast your spices, shaking the pan occasionally until you can sniff the fragrance....just takes a few minutes.

Of course the best way to get the most out of your spices is to buy them whole in small batches that you can keep in an airtight container and grind just what you need for any given recipe. The difference in flavor that this little effort makes will amaze you. I use my KitchenAid coffee grinder, because you can take it apart easily to clean. We wouldn't want coffee smelling like cumin or cumin flavoring our coffee for that matter.

Those were my attempts at helping out...now I turn to you for advise. Any tips on softening hard seasoning powders?

Just add them to the comments and I'll update the post.

Cure for Rock Hard Brown Sugar

2008-04-04T04:24:00.000-07:00

This is a cross post. Check out the answer at Once Upon a Feast. Hint....bread or apple and a microwave....

And share your favorite kitchen tips in the comments and I want to do a round up of great kitchen tips.

How to Keep Olive Oil from Solidifying in the Fridge

2008-03-16T08:51:00.000-07:00

I recently was asked the following question about Marinated Feta stored in the fridge....

"We recently had a marinated feta in olive oil that did not require it being brought to room temperature. For some reason the oil (olive I thought) did not solidify, I would like to make it at home and give it for gifts but not have the oil soldify...how is this possible?
Any ideas?"

I frequently have the same challenge...how come I can purchase roasted red peppers, or feta, or...well, anything marinated in olive oil and for some of them, the oil solidifies and others don't. I tried doing a "Google" search and didn't really find any answer. So I thought I'd open it up to all of you....

If you have any ideas, share them in the comments or send me an email .

Please email me any of your questions, and if I don't have the answer, I'll certainly try to find it for you.

Related links: kitchen tips Food & Drink Cooking Questions

Cookies for the Holidays

2007-12-01T05:35:00.000-08:00

Everyone loves cookies (like my family's favorite oatmeal cookies) and many of us like to bake and share them, so with the Holidays fast approaching the biggest question is...how far in advance can we make them and how do we store them.

So here are some great cookie making tips from some of my favorite bakers:
Dorie Greenspan in Baking From My Home To Yourshas these suggestions -
Baking: key word - PATIENCE

Always use a cool baking pan. If you just use the one you took out of the oven the cookies will start to ooze before they even get in the oven
Choose sturdy rimmed baking sheets that won't warp (she says to avoid insulated sheets as they cook slowly and you won't get the lovely golden tops we all love, other bakers opt for the insulated ones because they keep the bottoms from burning....it's a choice you have to make!)
Always line the baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone mat - great for cleanups and even baking
Don't be in too much of a rush to get them all done in 1-2 batches. Cookies need room to bake properly, so no crowding on the baking sheet and no crowding in the oven. If you are going to do 2 trays at once, remember to rotate them halfway.

Storing: if that's possible (not usually in my house)

Don't mix soft and crisp cookies in the same clear jar or cookie tin. Crisp cookies will absorb the moisture from the soft ones
Use parchment paper between layers in cookie tins

The All New Good Housekeeping Cook Bookhas these tips:

Use heavy guage metal cookie sheets with a dull finish
The air in the oven needs to circulate during baking so make sure there's at least 2" around the cookie sheets

They like rimless cookie sheets for better air flow

Cool cookies before storing them

Marcy Goldman in A Passion for Baking feels that cookies keep their flavors best stored in a cookie tin in the fridge or in a cookie jar that closes well.

Mitchell Davis in Kitchen Sense suggests cookies will keep in the for 2 days to 2 weeks, depending on the type of cookie, in a cookie tin at room temperature or up to 2 months in the freezer.

Have a Happy Holiday Season. If you have any tips to share, please email your suggestions to ruth AT 4everykitchen DOT com or leave them in the comments.

Please email me any of your kitchen questions, and if I don't have the answer, I'll certainly try find it for you.

Related links: kitchen tips Food & Drink cookies

How to Tame Your Too Spicy Soups & Stews

2007-11-23T09:30:00.000-08:00

Yesterday I sent out an S.O.S. for someone to Save Our Soup. And so many people responded with advice. I mean....look how beautiful the soup is, I couldn't bear to throw it out. And I'm sure there are some of you out there that would love this Chorizo, Tomato & Beet Green Soup just the way it is. But we're wimps, so here were some ideas should you find yourself in the same situation:

Add cream or sour cream, dairy cuts the heat
Dilute with more chicken broth, which would certainly work if you added enough, but then you might have to feed your entire neighborhood!
Add some mashed potato
Spritz some lime juice before serving.

In the end, I chose to mash a large sweet potato (I thought the flavors of the herbs, tomatoes, and chorizo married well with the sweetness of the yams) and because I didn't want the soup too thick, I also added about a cup of chicken broth.

The spritz of lime juice in the bowl was an added plus. In fact, I'm adding that to the original recipe. It was perfect.

Of course the best advice - when trying out a new sausage, saute a small amount and TASTE before adding the entire batch to your soup, stew or pasta.

Thanks everyone for all your advice.