The Aspiring Hiker's Guide

Simpson River Trail/Surprise Creek Campground

2012-06-09T17:54:00.000-07:00

This is a lengthy hike with very little elevation change, and compared to other hikes in the area, it has fewer natural landmarks. For the most part, it does as the title suggests: it is a trail that follows the Simpson River. The burnt forest from the Mount Shanks forest fire in 2001 allows scenic viewing not possible through the normally dense forest that would otherwise be here. Although the trail begins in Kootenay National Park, the destination at the Surprise Creek shelter and campground lies within the borders of Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park in British Columbia. So, make sure that you pay your camping fees for the appropriate park.

The shelter is first-come, first-served, and overflow camping is on non-designated pads in the meadow beside the shelter. Because of this system, it is advisable to bring a tent and not depend on the availability of the shelter. The metal bear boxes outside the shelter are to be used for tenters and not just the occupants of the shelter. More details are at http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/mt_assiniboine/

DIFFICULTY ****

DISTANCE: 10.6 km

ELEVATION GAIN: 175 m

Trailhead:

GPS: N50 58.708 W115 56.895

Elevation: 1235 m

Surprise Creek Shelter and Campground:

GPS: N50 58.071 W115 49.298

Elevation: 1410 m

Trailhead: The large highway sign marking the Simpson River Trail is 46.8 km down the Banff–Windermere Highway from Castle Junction and 6 km south of Vermilion Crossing. The gravel pullover is on the east (left) side of the parkway, with minimal parking. The pleasant setting of Vermilion Crossing contains the Kootenay Park Lodge, Kootenay Park Visitor Centre and a day-use picnic area.

Surprise Creek Cabin

From the trailhead, cross the steel bridge over the Vermilion River to access the backcountry trail and the forest of burnt spruce and pine. The long-lasting effects of the fire that ravaged this area are immediately evident and will continue throughout most of the hike. Once more, due to the minimal blockage by the burnt-out forest, you can see Hawk Ridge directly ahead of you, due east.

You’ll see a trail marker sign, the first of many to come, within the first couple of minutes. The straight line will take you down the Mount Shanks trail, with a marked distance of 6.9 km. This same sign will direct you to make a 90° right turn to the desired Simpson River Trail. The sign is a tad confusing, as it states that it is 8.6 km to the “Simpson River Trail” when 8.6 km is actually the distance to the boundary of Kootenay National Park and Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park. The Surprise Creek shelter and campground are in fact 10.6 km away.

During the next 15 to 20 minutes, you’ll cross numerous minor streams with an easy stride on a trail that remains flat and open. For almost 2 km of enjoyable, wide open vistas, the trail and the Simpson River almost touch. The trail then rises momentarily above the river, only to succumb to the river’s trance once more to parallel it for another ten minutes before climbing above it again.

With the river meandering below the trail now for the next half-hour or so, its proximity varies, but it is always within earshot. Up here, as you venture farther into the backcountry, the narrow trail becomes even slimmer, but an hour and a half into the journey, the trail widens temporarily at a major creek crossing. The log bridge at this crossing, permits views even more spectacular. From the openness of the stream crossing, the trail moves away from the Simpson River and continues to wander up high for another 20 minutes until gently, almost unnoticeably, dropping back down to the river.

Gradually, the trail brings the river closer and parallels it for an additional 20 minutes. As it does this, the trail becomes trapped in the incredibly damaged forest, with a high escarpment flanking its left and the Simpson River on its right. This makes for an interesting, narrow, flat flood plain with no escape during flood season, and the terrain through these lowlands can be boggy even during mid-summer. Slowly the trail begins to climb until it eventually settles high above the Simpson River.

Within 10 or 15 minutes up on the plateau the river becomes distant, and unheard. The scorched forest transitions into a beautiful, lush Rocky Mountain landscape of mature spruce and pine, and you come to the first of many boardwalks. Continue up here through gorgeous forest along many boardwalks covering moist ground until you reach the boundary between Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park and Kootenay National Park. This landmark presents minimal fanfare – just a simple mileage post marking the border. However, there is a swath cut straight through the forest as far as you can see. It seems that the border required marking by harvesting a 10-metre wide strip of forest.

Two easy kilometres remain to be explored yet to reach the Surprise Creek shelter and campground. Not much changes, as the river continues to follow the trail but remains far below. The main change along the route now is that the forest becomes significantly richer as mosses and ferns dominate the understorey, necessitating the construction of many more boardwalks. Thirty minutes of intermittent boardwalking finally brings the trail back down to the Simpson River. The shelter and campground are reached by crossing a secure, lengthy suspension bridge over the river.

This tranquil setting is unique. On a cloudless evening, the uncluttered, exposed meadow beside the cabin is a far cry finer than spending the night in the cabin’s dark, dingy interior.

The closest day hike is a 9-km jaunt into Rock Lake that requires a moderate elevation increase of 608 m. The trail is clearly marked at the Surprise Creek area and the path has no obstacles. This is simply a steady uphill climb to the trail and lake.

Castle Mountain

2012-06-09T17:14:00.003-07:00

The summit of Castle Mountain is an easy, yet lengthy journey. Be prepared
for an early morning start and a late afternoon return. There are only two
strenuous sections on the trail. The first one is from Tower Lake to Rockbound
Lake, and the other is the section from Rockbound Lake to the upper plateau.
Otherwise, it is a long meander up 12 km of a moderate incline. With an overall
elevation gain approaching 1400 m, more than half of this is accomplished in
the 7.7 km to Tower Lake.
The journey to this summit is a trek unlike any other. When you look at this
fortress wall from the highway, the summit appears to be almost impossible to
achieve beyond this impregnable rock fortification. But the key to this ascent is
that the access is actually around the back end of the limestone wall. The journey
is truly better than the destination.
Difficulty
Elevation gain: 1379 m
Trailhead: G PS: N51 16 08.0 W115 54 57.5
E levation: 1396 m
Rockbound Lake: G PS: N51 18 46.7 W115 55 40.8
E levation: 2221 m
Castle Summit: G PS: N51 18 04.5 W115 55 40.0
E levation: 2775 m
Trailhead: The trailhead is located at Castle Junction, 24 km east of Lake
Louise on the Trans-Canada Highway. After exiting at the interchange,
head north to Highway 1a and proceed east (right) for 200 m. The trail
is marked as the “Rockbound Lake” trail, not the “Castle Lookout” trail.
Like many Rocky Mountain scrambles, this route begins in a dense forest.
The trail is usually in good repair, with no trouble spots. Carry on up this
gentle hike until reaching Tower Lake at kilometre 7.7 Coming out of the
forest into the meadow before this lake is quite an incredible surprise.
Eisenhower Tower looms over the left, as the lake is just in front of you. From
here the trail breaks out of the forest into beautiful openness that lets the eyes
wander. Because of the design of this climb, you will travel 4.3 km in a wide
loop to eventually come back to this approximate point, but 650 m higher.

Follow the trail around the right (northeast) shoreline of Tower Lake
to continue up to Rockbound Lake. This is the first heart-thumping part
of the climb. There are continual switchbacks straight up through forest,
with an elevation gain of very nearly 100 m. It is somewhere up this dirty,
dusty section of the trail that you will curse my name. However, it is also
the point at which you will wish you had spent the extra time on the
treadmill during those long winter nights.

As you come out on the top of this stretch of trail, the unique
Rockbound Lake comes into view. Stop and take a breather. Give the old heart a break before attempting to get to the upper plateau. This gorgeous
lake is aptly named for the limestone walls surrounding it, with the far
shoreline bound by Helena Ridge. Before proceeding up to the plateaus
remember to hydrate, and fill your containers as well. There is still a long
way to go and there is no guarantee of water up top. The rock of the eastern
main ranges of this area lies flatter than in the more eastern front range
mountains. Consequently, they lack the trench-like drainage of the front
range peaks, causing the drainage to spread unevenly, and consequently it
is not pooled for a long time.

Follow the shoreline to the right, travelling north, until you reach the
drainage outflow of the lake. Cross this small stream and continue heading
toward the gullies straight ahead. Pick up the trail here that will arrive
at the furthest channel on the right. Climb up this gully to embark on
the second strenuous part of the trek. This ravine trail is well trodden and
maintains its course right up to the upper plateau.

As you emerge from the gully into a small clearing, the summit comes
into view behind you. It is almost as far back as can be seen, to the southeast
with a bearing of 172º true, 1.9 km distant as the crow flies. As the
hiker treks, however, the long ridge walk to the summit is indeed 3 km,
with only a slight elevation gain of 356 m. Once you are up and out of this
gorge, the remainder of the route becomes a choice between two routes.

The recommended time-saving route is to take the low left trail and not
the steep climb up to the right. The low trail will descend onto a vast
grassy area, which has a lovely clear stream carved through it. At the far
end of the grass plateau look for a cairn-marked gully. This is a quick
climb back up to the upper terrace. Alternatively, after climbing up from
Rockbound Lake, stay to the right, up a steep knoll. The traverse on the
upper terrace is longer than the shortcut through the grassy table, but
is actually a less complicated approach. Regardless, both routes converge
at the upper terrace trail toward the summit. The remainder of the hike
consists of a lot of rock hopping on rubble. This first appears to be never
ending and becomes rather laborious as you hop on rock after rock after
rock. However, as the rock hopping persists, it becomes evident that elevation
is being gained without the tedium of a direct route upward.

Off in the distance the summit is visible as a rocky outcrop. Clamber to the top
of this to reach the exposed summit of Castle Mountain.
The summit is a natural viewpoint with such sights as Pilot Mountain
14.4 km to the southeast and Mount Temple 20 km off to the west.
Directly below are the Trans-Canada Highway and the Castle Junction
Interchange, a reminder of how far you have come today.

South Boundary Trail - Jacques Lake Campground

2012-06-09T16:37:00.001-07:00

As an enjoyable day of backpacking, the South Boundary Trail provides impressive companions for most of the hike. The Queen Elizabeth and Colin ranges, on the right and left sides respectively, are in full view until the path darts into the forest about 1.25 hours into the hike. The Queen Elizabeth range is the most visible and picturesque of the two. With a wide-open trail for more than half of the walk, minimal elevation gain, lakeside exposure and spectacular mountain ranges framing the valley, this hike is one to appreciate and enjoy. Stop and take pictures, or stop and look in awe, but be sure you stop to enjoy. Of the entire 167 km of the entire South Boundary Trail, this first 12.2 km is possibly the most scenic and enjoyable.
Difficulty ***

Distance: 12.2 km

Elevation gain: 78 m

Trailhead G PS: N52 50 57.8 W117 43 19.9

E levation: 1445 m

Junction at First Summit Lake G PS: N52 53 01.7 W117 45 02.5

E levation: 1523 m

Jacques Lake Campground G PS: N52 56 00.8 W117 44 18.8

E levation: 1492 m

Trailhead: From the traffic lights at the junction of the Icefields Parkway

and Highway 16, drive east on Highway 16 for 6 km to the Maligne

Road. After crossing the Athabasca River, immediately turn left and

drive another 28 km. The pull-off is on the left side, marked as the “South

Boundary Trail.”

The path begins as a spacious trail. You pass a cabin and corral within

the first few minutes. Fifteen minutes later the south shore of Beaver Lake with its boats and boat launch are passed. The trail then sidesteps the lake for several scenic minutes. Beyond the lake the trail continues to offer incredible neck-craning panoramas of the Queen Elizabeth and Colin ranges. This lasts for 2 km of easy trekking until the path emerges from the forest onto a hillside of small brush and vegetation devoid of trees, thus permitting much grander views of the parallel mountain ranges.

The first of the three Summit Lakes is met at the distal end of the
brush field at a marked fork in the trail. Follow the trail marked “South
Boundary Trail” to the right onto a narrow path into a dank coniferous
forest. The trail is unchanged for the remainder of the hike, with intermittent
gaps in the trees allowing you to see the Summit Lakes. The left
option of the fork sends the trail along the shoreline of the first lake, but
there is some difficulty recovering the main trail since there is not a distinct
path heading back to it. So, some bushwhacking will be necessary if
you choose this alternative. A quick trip down the left fork toward the lake
should be taken for a relaxing break, as it provides views of the surrounding
mountains that are even more impressive.
The trail winds its way around trees in the forest for another 4–5 km.
Just when you have had enough of tripping over myriad exposed roots, the
trail emerges on the south bank of Jacques Lake. At the far (north) end
of the lake lies the campground in a wonderful setting back from the lake.

Geraldine Lakes Campground

2011-02-02T23:01:00.000-08:00

The Geraldine Lakes trail should only be travelled during dry, sunny conditions. The trail is lost on the route around the second lake in a maze of large boulders covered with crust lichens, making the hike extremely slimy and slippery. Even without the lichens, large rounded rocks are dicey on their own when wet. Although there are four lakes in the chain, the third and fourth ones are without a trail and require a tremendous amount of work to access.

The trek to the campground presents two wonderful waterfalls, two lakes and a pond, forest, scree and two gruelling climbs. A day well spent.

Distance: 6.2 km

Elevation gain: 400 m

Trailhead:

GPS: N52 37 42.0 W117 54 51.8

Elevation: 1496

Geraldine Lake #1:

GPS: N52 36 54.1 W117 55 50.6

Elevation: 1613

Top of First Waterfall:

Elevation: 1694 m

Geraldine Lake #2:

GPS: N52 35 30.6 W117 56 23.8

Elevation: 1896

Geraldine Lakes Campground:

GPS: N52 35 17.8 W117 56 42.0

Elevation: 1896

Trailhead: At 32 km south of the junction of Highway 16 and the Icefields Parkway is the turnoff for Athabasca Falls, which is also the south end of Highway 93a. Take this road on the west side of the parkway and drive past the Athabasca Falls parking lot for 700 m. On the left side of Highway 93a is the Geraldine Lakes Fire Road, also the entrance for the Fryatt Valley trailhead. Drive the fire road for 5.6 km, to the end of it.
The first 1.8 km takes you through a dense forest of evergreens which climbs gradually for 117 m before it reaches the first of the Geraldine Lakes. The trail sticks close to the west shoreline, creating damp feet and frustration during high water, so try to veer slightly inland to stay dry.

At the end of the first lake the path fades, becoming less and less conspicuous as the journey continues. From here on in, follow yellow markers and cairns and the bits and pieces of trail as it materializes.
Here at the end of the first lake is the first of two wonderful waterfalls encountered on this hike. Stay to the right and clamber up the side of the falls for 81 m, reaching a short valley. There is a second lake here, but it is not the second lake. Follow cairns and trail to the left side of this pond before walking alongside it through the trees. At the far left reach, the path scrambles up what feels like a perpendicular wall for another 202 m.
This is a test for boot traction, as there is nothing to grasp and the hillside is loose pebbles and scree. While creeping your way toward the next level you will undoubtedly stop to rest the lungs and legs. At this moment enjoy the moment by turning around and glancing north. Sit down and take a break; take as long as you want to take it all in.
On top of the waterfall the second lake comes into full view. There is much rock hopping and the trail is sparse. Stay low, avoiding the trails to the viewpoint up the right bank at the near end of the lake. The way to the campground is on the left (west) shoreline. The route is mainly rocks and boulders with some bits of trail through bush. As much as rock hopping is fun, it is dangerous. There is more than a kilometre of this to the campground at the distal inlet stream, so fatigue is also a consideration while playing on the rocks. The campground is primitive with four or five pads, a bear pole and a privy. Day hiking from this point is obvious but dangerous. There is no trail to the third and fourth lakes, and minor navigational skills may be required.

Panorama Ridge

2011-01-09T15:01:00.000-08:00

The scramble to the summit of this ridge promises hard work on loose scree, and wet feet while fording Babel Creek. The only way to prevent the fulfillment of either promise is to take the much longer route via Taylor Lake, but this route is easier and quicker. Achieving any of the adventures in this guidebook is accomplished by using our finite amount of time to do this instead of doing something else. Even when taking into account the cursed scree slopes, fording rivers, walking countless kilometres through forest and balancing on a precarious summit ridge, the thought of wanting to do anything other than this is strikingly strange. So, enjoy the scree and the river crossing, because the euphoria at the summit is just irreplaceable. Moreover, when you are sitting at home this will now become the only thing you think about and all you want to do.

Elevation gain: 905 m

Trailhead:

GPS: N51 19 43.3 W116 10 54.0
Elevation: 1873 m

Panorama Ridge:

GPS: N51 19 34.3 W116 08 04.6
Elevation: 2778 m

Summit:

GPS: N51 18 24.1 W116 07 15.2
Elevation: 2834 m

Trailhead: The trail crosses the Moraine Lake outlet stream and intersects a fork in the trail without delay. The way is clear, as signs will direct you to the left toward Consolation Lakes 2.9 km up the main trail. There is a 65-m elevation gain over the course of this 2.9-km hike.
There is a short expanse of boulder hopping for a few minutes as you traverse an avalanche slope. Upward to the right is a splendid view of the Tower of Babel. The trail now enters a coniferous forest of spruce and fir that parallels Babel Creek until approaching the lower reaches of Lower Consolation Lake. When the trail breaks through the forest it is greeted by a meadow of wildflowers and a clear look at the route up Panorama Ridge lying across the creek to the left.

Upon arriving here, begin searching for a narrow, shallow area for crossing the creek. The creek seems to narrow near the lake, but this may change from year to year. The water is only knee-deep at most, but it is still advisable to seek shallow water, as there is a bit of a current. There are remnants of a makeshift crossing constructed of logs, rocks and other debris, but this is now unsafe. The water is painfully cold and the rocks are hard on bare feet, so neoprene water boots are highly recommended. On the other side, after a brief encounter with a boulder field, you’ll find the trail evident and well marked. As with most scree slopes there are many trails, with sometimes one being better than the rest. Try to search out the most frequented, packed-down path if possible. Again, this may change from one year to another. Regardless, this is going to be a struggle even if a packed trail is found. However, since the mountainside is barren, the scenery is fantastic during the entire trip, so listen to your legs and stop frequently to turn around and take a look. Otherwise you really will be missing the point of being here. Directly below are Consolation Valley and the lakes, and across the valley is the Tower of Babel, Mount Babel and Mount Fay. Mount Temple is in full view 5.7 km to the northwest. The incline becomes slightly steeper close to the top, but not for long.
The ridge and summit are composed of rock and boulders, making the ridge walk somewhat annoying. If you are not happy with the top of the ridge as your summit, then toil over the boulders for another 1.8 km to reach the true summit 56 m higher.

Storm Mountain

2010-12-30T15:44:00.000-08:00

This is without doubt the toughest climb in this guide. This is the challenge that will graduate you from an aspiring scrambler to an accomplished one. There are countless kilometres of deadfall to climb over, bushwhacking to endure, route-finding to navigate, a boulder field to crawl over and a stream to splash across. But the best prize of this challenge is 1000 m of the nastiest scree you have ever encountered. This could possibly be the most exhausting day of your life.

Upper scree slope

ELEVATION GAIN: 1521 m

Storm Mountain Trailhead:

GPS: N51 13 06.1 W116 03 25.7
Elevation: 1644 m

Storm Mountain Summit:
GPS: N51 12 27.6 W116 00 17.9
Elevation: 3165 m
Trailhead: From the crossroads of the Trans-Canada and the Banff–Windermere highways (Hwys. 1 and 93), travel south for 11.4 km to a small gravel pull-off on the east (left) side of the highway. This is readily recognized, as there is a steel gate inside the pull-off. This parking area is 1.2 km south of the Continental Divide marker, also on the east side of the parkway. The Continental Divide point of interest is 10.2 km south of Castle Junction.

Walk around the steel gate, follow the road and immediately enter a large field. Stroll through the middle of it and make your way to the far left end. Here there is a short, narrow gully taking you down to a stream that is barely too wide to step across. A makeshift bridge of old logs is apparent but slippery. Be careful. Waist-high brush presents the first obstacle for a trail-less beginning.

Past the thick brush, the way opens to the horrific remnants of the 2003 forest fire season and the repetitive deadfall that must be climbed over. This alone becomes exhausting after the first 40 or 50 of these natural obstacles. The stream remains on your right as the trail ventures upward through burnt forest with green undergrowth. Stick close to the stream while searching for a faded track. It is there, so keep an eye out as you continue upward, because about 20 minutes into the trek you’ll find a stack of cairns approximately knee high close to the stream. This marks the beginning of the recognizable trail.

From the cairns, the trail begins a five- to ten-minute ascent of switchbacks, eventually leveling off and leaving the stream below. After about five minutes of flat walking, the climbing resumes again. As the path weaves upward through the scorched forest, the obstacle course of fallen trees becomes quite tiresome. Over, under and around. Roughly another 20 minutes later, the forest begins to thin, the trees begin to shorten, and luckily the grade of the slope begins to decrease. Another ten minutes of bashing around deadfall, and the trail and the stream meet once more. Continue to follow the indistinct path for another 15 minutes as it tries its best to stay beside the stream, and you will be rewarded again by hurdling over more trees that are downtrodden.

Now the forest opens to a magnificent long boulder field situated right in the gully you’ve been hiking in as it approaches the base of the mountain. Looking upward to the right, the source of these large boulders becomes obvious. Different obstacles must now be negotiated as deadfall and brush give way to large rocks and massive boulders. The rockhopping begins about 90 minutes into this demanding journey. Initially contained inside the boulder gully, the path stays close to the forest on your left, but as the gully expands, the necessity of crossing this minefield of oversized rocks becomes apparent. Watch for another gulch that enters yours, roughly 20 minutes into the boulder field. From this point, make your way to the right, over huge rocks the size of cars. It’s quite fun, actually, once you establish a rhythm. Not so much fun when the lichen-laden rocks are wet, though, so be careful.

Believe it or not, accomplishing the boulder crossing has only put you in position to scramble up 900–1000 m of horrible, horrible, horrible scree. You have been warned, so please do not curse me out halfway up. In all of our discussions with fellow scramblers, when Mount Storm comes up, it is immediately dismissed as the one that everyone is putting off. The rumours of this scree slope are legendary. And, yes, they are true.

The remainder of the hike is a trudge upward on a giant slope of rocks, pebbles, stones and gravel. Upward is obvious, but there is a best route to follow. As you enter the talus slope, you will see a path that has been traced by the drudgery of others. Continue up the belly of the slope looking for a couple of prominent rock bands several hundred metres up. Stay to the right of these, eventually crossing over the top of them and moving to the left. As you cross leftward over the top of these rock bands, a cliff face is now on your right. Ultimately, you will bypass this by staying left and continue straight up again. As the false summit comes into view you’ll easily see a large cairn slightly to the left. Direct yourself toward this cairn.

At some point you will need to ascertain your position on a mountainside of sliding rock that is simply working you to a state of fatigue. Stop. Take many breaks. Look behind you and enjoy where you are. Gaze out and realize, as you look down at the highway, just how lucky you are. Watch the traffic whiz by, and become aware of your surroundings. You are one of less than one tenth of one tenth of one per cent of travellers that actually get out and do this. Then turn around and get back to work.

The route-finding really is not that difficult; just make sure you follow the trails on the scree to avoid heading into a dead canyon. From the cairn, the summit is still another 250 m up, but as the ascent continues, the grade decreases. Finally you begin to walk on reasonably level ground to approach the true summit over to your right.

Mount Ball’s fantastic snow-covered peak, 6 km to the south, appears to hang over the summit of Storm Mountain, and with an apex of over 3300 m, it is incredibly impressive. To the west are Mount Whymper and Boom Mountain.

Check out the book cover for Volume 2

2010-12-25T09:03:00.000-08:00

The book cover has been chosen after reviewing hundreds of photos of my mountain treks throughout British Columbia. Any feedback would be appreciated!

The Journey

2010-12-23T22:12:00.001-08:00

The Journey

Dust arising from the path a new

journey to begin

From the peak to the base, the hills cast

a shadow upon us, as if to grin

Stating their difficulties, we look upon

in awe,

a quest, a trek, a challenge for all

The sweat and the pain; outweighed

by the lush fields, the sweet pure water,

and the rugged terrain

The icy guardians, they lurk up high in

the hills,

watching our every move, grumbling,

they stay still

Pushing through the rain, the snow, and the sleet,

the body is tired.

Your eyes demand more

despite your sore feet

And when the sun comes up, your picture is

perfect, nothing you could have imagined,

and now the journey becomes worth it.

--Tyler Shea

Backcountry Stoves

2010-12-22T22:02:00.000-08:00

MSR Pocket Rocket

There are two types of backcountry stoves to choose from: those that use canister fuel and those that use liquid fuel. The canister type comes in a variety of styles, and all of them use pressurized fuel that is either butane or a mixture of butane and propane. Of the two kinds of canister fuels, the blended-fuel type produces a hotter flame. Even so, all fuel canisters will fade in cold weather and at high altitudes. Almost all liquid-fuel stove systems use inexpensive white gas, which burns more efficiently than either type of canister fuel. The liquid fuel stove is also more efficient at high altitudes and cold temperatures. What’s more, when a liquid fuel stove runs out of gas, it only requires refilling the empty cylinder, whereas with canister fuel the entire canister has to be replaced.

The canister stove may burn somewhat more powerfully than the liquid fuel stove at first, but it loses its efficiency proportionately as pressure and fuel decrease. What’s more, with most brands of canister units, there is no effective way of controlling the fuel output. Liquid gas stoves, on the other hand, come equipped with a pump and a flow control valve, allowing far greater regulation of the fuel. The Mountain Safety Research (msr) “Pocket Rocket,” however, is an extremely lightweight, ready-to-use canister system that does permit control of fuel flow.

The only real benefit of the pressurized canister system is its easy set-up and use. You just attach the canister, light the stove, and it heats up immediately, while the liquid gas stoves are more finicky and time-consuming to set up. But even among liquid gas stoves, there are levels of craftsmanship, and msr’s WhisperLite Internationale has been proven reliable for decades. It boils water quickly and simmers very effectively, even in high winds, rain and cold and at high altitudes.

MSR Whisperlite International

Vermilion Peak

2010-12-19T09:22:00.000-08:00

Vermilion Peak is best described as a straightforward, relatively quick scramble that starts ascending almost immediately. There is no warm up here, just right down to business. The drawback with this type of climb is that there is no break in it; it is just straight upward with no levelling off until you reach the summit.

Elevation Gain: 1207 m

Trailhead:

GPS: N51 09 35.6 W116 09 09.0

Elevation: 1419 m

Vermilion Peak Summit:

GPS: N51 09 37.3 W116 07 00.5

Elevation: 2586 m

Trailhead: From the Castle Mountain junction on the Trans-Canada Highway follow Hwy. 93 (Banff–Radium Highway) 21 km south to 4.1 km south of the Marble Canyon parking lot and 1.5 km south of the Paint Pots parking lot. The trailhead is unmarked but you can recognize it by an opening in the forest creating a bit of a meadow on the east (left) side of the highway. It’s your choice whether to park your vehicle here and leave it alone or park instead in the Paint Pots parking lot and walk the 1.5 km to the trailhead.

Cross this sometimes muddy field and follow the small slope up to the remnants of the old highway. Turn south (right) here and walk for about 75 to 100 m, reaching a wide opening in the forest on your left. This obvious, broad gap makes its way up to the gully, which you will remain in for the better part of this scramble. In fact, this gully is visible from the highway and is clearly the only choice up this side of the mountain.

This avalanche channel has two easy obstacles to manoeuvre. Two small rock walls in quick succession require a little bit of handwork for about 15 to 20 m. Beyond the rock walls, continue up the path and you will eventually encounter a fork. Both trails will bring you to the same place. The right-hand one is shorter but steeper. Regardless which one you choose, you will arrive below the summit ridge. Continue ascending but begin to traverse to the right until you reach a reasonable approach that will get you to the summit ridge.

Once up on the ridge, most of the work is done and the rest is an easy walk on a well-trodden path that straddles the ridge to the summit. About 100 m shy of the cairn-marked true summit is the well-marked “popular” summit where most scramblers seem to stop due to exposure and sudden drops down either side. It is up to you. Assess your confidence and comfort and do not just go on pride.

Stanley Peak is unmistakable to the east at an impressive 3155 m, while the less impressive Mount Haffner is slightly south (right) at 2514 m.

Vermilion Peak history

Vermilion Peak derives its name from the river and valley of the same name. Vermilion is one of the brilliant colours of the pigment the Ktunaxa (Kootenay) First Nations discovered in this area. The Ktunaxa would extract the stuff from the region’s ochre beds and heat it over large fires to smelt out the pigmented powder. They would then mix this with animal grease and use it for colouring their clothing, painting their bodies and making pictures on rocks. The most common colours were red (vermilion) and yellow.

Helmet Falls Campground

2010-12-18T16:28:00.000-08:00

If not for the overall distance, the journey to these wondrous falls would be reasonably effortless. As Kootenay National Park does not possess the notoriety of the neighbouring Banff and Yoho parks, it is often less travelled. So it is not too surprising to come across such a gem as this without any fanfare or very much human traffic. The place is remarkably unknown and amazingly easily accessed. Helmet Falls has a total height of 352 m that spills over two tiers. The single drop forms from two streams which join at mid-fall. The two streams originate from two separate glaciers in the massive Washmawapta Icefield.

Distance: 15 km

Elevation Gain: 319 m

Trailhead:
GPS: N51 10 12.3 W116 08 50.1
Elevation: 1443 m

Helmet Falls Campground:
GPS: N51 11 46.6 W116 18 17.8
Elevation: 1762 m

Trailhead: From Castle Junction drive south on The Banff-Windermere Highway for 19.6 kilometers to the Paint Pots parking lot on the west side of the parkway. The trailhead is well marked, entering the forest on the west side of the parking lot.

The trail leaves the parking lot in a non-eventful fashion. A straight level path accommodates wheelchair access within the first minute, diverting to the left of the main trail. Both trails descend gently, joining shortly prior to crossing The Vermilion River by way of a short suspension bridge. On the other side of the river, the astounding 360° panoramas include peaks of the Vermilion Range dominating the west and north-west horizon, while the Ball Range tower over the span of the eastern sky. If you can stop yourself from this engrossing encounter, follow the trail along the stream, and into the forest to arrive at the lower paint pots. This should take no longer than ten minutes.
The Paint Pots are a rare find, and should be explored, at least for a few minutes. The trail through this mud lover’s paradise is distinct and well worn. Sections that are excessively dirty are laid down with wooden planks. The muddy path inclines slightly to gain the upper section of the Paint Pots, where the water in the lower flats originates. At the top of the ochre beds, the path becomes indiscernible, and you will be left standing at the top of the beds, wondering where to go. If you look straight over the small mud flat up here, you will see that the path picks up again at the far end of the outlet of the main bed. The trail is visible as it enters the forest beside an aged trail marker. Either walk across the mud (it is really quite firm and shallow), or follow a faint path to your right that circumnavigates the small mud flat and ochre pond.
The trail into the forest narrows where an old, rough looking sign guides you to Helmet/Ochre Creek, Tumbling Creek, and Helmet Falls Campgrounds. A stairway of railway ties assists the entrance into the woods. Within another five minutes, a sign steers you to stay straight on the path and a mild elevation gain is felt. A couple of small streams are crossed as the journey through forest of spruce and pine levels off. At about the three and a half kilometer mark on the trek, a magnificent avalanche slope of shrubs, wild berries, and flowers is crossed.
After crossing the slope, the trail pierces the forest for another 6-8 minutes, coming across signs in a small cleared intersection at 3.9 kilometers from the trailhead. The Helmet Creek Falls campground is another 11.1 kilometers straight up the main trail. As the trail departs the junction it begins a slight uphill climb, and the forest becomes sparser with thicker trees. Two kilometers from the intersection, the trail opens up, to a small field of Red paintbrushes, yellow and purple daisies, and a variety of grasses. Views of north and west laying peaks are accessible from the engaging little field.
The next ten minutes of the hike takes the trail down to the river basin where tributaries join Ochre Creek making for some minor rock hopping. The Helmet/ Ochre Creek Campground is situated on the far bank of the Ochre Creek. From here, 8.8 kilometers remain to the Helmet Creek Campground. Stroll through the campground as the trail continues along the eastern shoreline of Helmet Creek and crosses it over a sturdy bridge. The trail leaves the riverbank to climb a series of switchbacks for about 0.5 kilometers. For the next three kilometers, up here, the journey continues through avalanche slopes, and a rolling forest with views of Helmet Creek down far below. Eventually you drop down to the river, skirting it for about two kilometers, crossing it over another suspension bridge.
Leaving the river and entering the forest brings a welcome silence for a short time. Within the next 1.5 kilometers, the first glimpse of Helmet Falls will grab your attention. This site really caught us by surprise during our first hike into the campground. It is still far away from here, but is incredibly spectacular. The falls are 352 meters high, seem to fall forever, and are back dropped on a massive limestone wall. Amazing. The trek finishes on a fairly level circuit of trees and meadow, and finally descends over a bridge into the campground, after passing a Parks Canada Warden cabin.

Purchasing a Sleeping Bag

2010-12-18T16:17:00.000-08:00

Sleeping bags

Sleeping bags are categorized by fill, shell, size, shape, internal space, weight, compatibility and temperature rating. The required temperature rating depends on the time of year the bag will be used, the elevation and the local climate and environment. Be aware that weather in the Rockies can change overnight, and it is not uncommon to encounter temperatures below freezing combined with snow even in July and August. Therefore, you should consider a bag that is suitable for subzero temperatures even if you only intend to use it in the summer.

Of the several types of fill, down is the best choice. The rest are all synthetic imitations of down. The superb features of down are that it has high loft (the higher the loft, the warmer you will be), it is lightweight and has great compressibility. The only drawback is that when down gets wet it becomes useless. It will no longer keep you warm, it loses its loft and gets heavy and it takes forever to dry. You might as well pull up your tent and head home.

The synthetics are an adequate, less costly alternative to down, and of course, some are better than others.

The main advantage of synthetics over down is that when they get wet, they will dry out in a reasonable time, allowing the journey to continue. Synthetics do not have the loft or compressibility that down has, though, and they are slightly heavier. Hollofil, Hollofil 2 and Quallofil, though considered a technological alternative to down, are the least-regarded synthetic fills. These bags are bulky, heavy and do not compress well, but they are inexpensive. Primaloft, Primaloft 2, Liteloft, Microloft and Thermolite Extreme are better performers but still they are not the best. Although they are quite compressible, they will not stand up very well in the long run.

Polarguard, Polarguard 3D and Polarguard HV are the top synthetic fills and currently hold 75 per cent of the market. They are very compressible, have good loft, which they maintain longer than the others, and they are very durable. They are also lighter than the other synthetic fills.

When purchasing a sleeping bag, choose it for size as well. There are mainly three adult sizes: small, medium and large. The bag should leave room to pull the hood around your head while leaving a few inches at the bottom for leg movement, but not too much legroom. All empty space in the bag must be warmed with body heat, and wasted space means wasted heat. Spending the night warming up dead space in the bottom of a sleeping bag can make for a very long, cold night. Consequently, when it comes to retaining warmth, a mummy bag is far superior to a rectangular bag. A common problem with some campers, however, is that they feel claustrophobic in a mummy bag, so if you have difficulty in elevators, you will probably have trouble in a mummy bag. To respond to this problem, some mummy bags are outfitted with elastic waist and leg bands to allow for expansion.

Another relevant feature is a double-ended zipper (having a zipper pull at both the top and the bottom of the bag), as this allows partial unzipping along the bottom to permit cooling and movement. There are good rectangular bags available for those who just cannot tolerate a mummy bag.

Volume 2 under way

2010-12-15T20:21:00.001-08:00

Revision number 9 of Volume 2: Mountain Treks in British Columbia went back to the publisher yesterday. This should be the final draught, with an expected release date on May 2011! All maps are complete, photos labelled, and details hashed out. With this done, and three years of solid writing behind me, I think I'll write a blog. haha! I just can't stop; it's so much fun. I will keep you posted with final decisions regarding trails, destinations, mountains, maps, and photos.

Aspiring Hiker's Guide 2: Mountain Treks in British Columbia

Purchasing a Backpack

2010-12-13T22:12:00.000-08:00

Purchasing backpacking equipment is an important investment, so you should take the time, effort and care to make quality decisions. The choices should not be as carefree as making a trip to a big-box store and buying the cheapest gear available. In fact, the standard rule is that the lighter the equipment is, the more expensive it turns out to be. Cost and quality become the difference between an efficient, lightweight, comfortable backpacking trip and a heavy, tedious, backbreaking, painful one.

Backpacks

When shopping for a backpack, speak with a qualified person in a reputable outfitting store and set aside considerable time for fitting. Each person is unique, and a proper fit is vital for successful trekking. Backpacks are categorized as either internal frame or external frame design.

Internal frame

The advantages of the internal frame style of backpack include its body-hugging capability and lower centre of gravity. Both of these characteristics result in superior balance, with freer arm movement and less bounce. The internal frame pack is also less likely to get hung up on tree branches and overhangs. The disadvantages are a bit of a trade-off, however, because although the lower centre of gravity creates better balance, it will put more stress on the shoulder harnesses, and the snugger body fit will generate perspiration on the wearer’s back. An air mesh frame will help to counteract the effects of excessive...

The books provide several pages of detailed descriptions of backpacks, fitting, materials, and styles.

Big Bend Campground

2010-12-12T13:06:00.000-08:00

This campground may very well have the most spectacular setting of any backcountry campground in the entire Rocky Mountain park system. The wide trail does not offer much viewing through the trees, but it is only a little more than 6 km of level hiking to the campground. The trail continues to

Fortress Lake, but going there is not recommended unless you expect to get awfully wet. Crossing the Chaba River requires fording cold water that is one-half to two metres deep. Even in low-water season there is still a very dangerous risk of being swept away in the strong current.
Day tripping to the Athabasca Crossing Campground and the Athabasca River bridge will take most of a day, as they are 8.8 and 9.3 km up the trail respectively.
Difficulty *
Distance: 6.3 km
Elevation gain: 105 m
Trailhead: G PS: N52 31 57.7 W117 38 43.5
E levation: 1408 m
Big Bend Campground: G PS: N52 29 08.1 W117 39 18.7
E levation: 1303 m

Trailhead: From the intersection of Highway 16 and the Icefields Parkway travel 53.5 km south to the Sunwapta Falls parking lot. Look for the throng of tourists making their way to and from the Sunwapta Falls viewpoint bridge. Break trail through the cameras to arrive, hopefully unscathed, at the far end of the short bridge. Actually, the falls are quite spectacular, justifying the heavy traffic. Stop and take a look yourself. After you cross the bridge over Sunwapta Falls, you’ll see the huge crowd of tourists suddenly thin out, as not many visitors to the falls venture farther than the bridge. Within 20 minutes the trail becomes wet as it passes over what appears to be a permanently soggy forest floor. This is 500 to 750 m. Stay on this track, as the sidelines can make your cozy, dry, warm boots suddenly very wet and cold.

Another 15 minutes gets you across a small stream. The level, uneventful, well-trodden path reaches through the beautiful coniferous forest, and soon enough the 6 km is complete as the spectacular sight of the big bend in the Athabasca River comes into full view. As the forest opens up at Big Bend the most prominent sight is Mount Quincy standing directly south 16.5 km away. Because of the flat walk-in, the work is done in 75 to 90 minutes, allowing hikers to pack in a few extra luxuries. These peaceful,tranquil, rapid waters can quickly calm even the most bad-tempered indi- viduals. The waters here move slow enough to become entrancing, yet just fast enough to make pre whitewater bubbling sounds, thus momentarily breaking the enchanting trance.
Day hiking the trail is much like the first 6 km except that there is a mild rise in elevation immediately after leaving Big Bend Campground. One to two kilometres later the trail loses the elevation gained and drops down to the Athabasca River. Then, just as quickly, it regains the forest. The rest of the hike is straightforward by just simply following the main trail. There are no key intersections or diversions. The Athabasca River bridge is a wondrous destination, since it has few lingering visitors, leaving it for your sole enjoyment. Quiet contemplation on this structure makes this long day trip meaningful.

Mount Temple

2010-12-12T11:07:00.001-08:00

Even though the scramble to the summit of Mount Temple involves a short

hand-over-hand climb, it is an extensive yet easy scramble to the summit of

this highest of the peaks in this guidebook. The only reason it is included,
and consequently exposing you to a bit of risk, is because of the absolute euphoria of being at such high altitude. Temple is the third-highest peak in the southern Rockies, the highest in the Lake Louise area, and overall the 11th-highest in the Canadian Rockies. There is much to be said for being so high up that you are looking down on the top of every other mountain in sight. A climbing helmet is recommended for the rock wall.

Elevation gain: 1675

Trailhead: GPS: N51 19 43.3 W116 10 54.0

Elevation: 1873 m

Sentinel Pass: GPS: N51 20 26.0 W116 13 18.6

Elevation: 2619 m

Summit: GPS: N51 21 03.7 W116 12 23.0

Elevation: 3548 m

Trailhead: From the town of Lake Louise, drive up Lake Louise Drive

toward the Chateau and turn left on Moraine Lake Road. Continue to the

Moraine Lake parking lot, approximately 12 km from the turnoff. Hike

the right side of the lake starting behind the Chateau until you reach

Larch Valley Trail.

The 6-km walk to Sentinel Pass covers an ascent via switchbacks

through forest, subalpine and alpine regions while passing lakes and

streams. Initially, the trail is an hour of relentless switchbacks, finally levelling

off to a picturesque walk through the meadows of Larch Valley toward

the base of Sentinel Pass. Covering the meadows should take 20 to 30 minutes,

allowing your body to rejuvenate before pushing on to the summit.

The lower of the Minnestimma lakes is nestled five minutes off the trail to the right,

while the upper, larger one is farther up the trail on the left.

This is the last source of water before the summit, and it is advisable

to filter, as the water in these lakes is still.

The apex of Sentinel Pass is in sight long before you reach it, and the

long, arduous switchbacks become visible as you get closer. The Sentinel

Pass crest has gained you 746 m, leaving 929 m left to climb. It is here

that you may concede there is too much more work to do, but if you wish

to feel pure jubilation and triumph, and see what very few people on the

planet have seen, then pick up and carry on. This is an experience like no

other in your life.

The path courses up the southwest slope on scree trails marked by too

many cairns for about a half hour until it comes to the only intimidating

part of the entire trip. Here, a helmet should be worn, as there is loose

rock all around. Whether a hiker is going up or coming down, the risk of

someone dislodging a rock on your head is very real. When you arrive at

an impasse that is about 10 to 15 m high, there are two possible approaches.

The first one is a clearly visible hand-over-hand climb up a well-worn

route that is easier than it looks. It is a good idea to take a length of rope

on this trip to haul your daypacks up and down this bluff. The second

option is a narrow crack in the left side of the wall, which has far less

exposure but is tricky to find and harder to climb.

From here on up, for the next hour and a half, the route is a remarkable

network of trails and switchbacks offering the grandest of views as

you weave up the side of the mountain to the large summit. Breathing

becomes markedly difficult because the air thins out, making the summit

push somewhat longer and more laborious than it appears.

From here, the views are astounding as you look down on everything

around you. To the southwest are Hungabee Mountain and Wenkchemna

Peak with Horseshoe Glacier and Horseshoe Lake at the base of them.

You can see forever from up here.

History

Walter Wilcox, with Samuel Allen and L.F. Frissell, first summited Mount

Temple in 1894. In early August, they departed the Lake Louise Chalet

with fellow climbers George Warrington and Yandell Henderson and a

Stoney Indian named Enoch Wildman to camp in and explore the wilderness

of Paradise Valley. They enjoyed a couple of days of climbing and

investigating this territory, and on August 17 Wilcox, Allen and Frissell

decided to attempt the first ascent of Mount Temple.

The peak had been named ten years earlier by George Mercer Dawson

(1849–1901), a geologist, anthropologist, author, teacher, civil servant, geographer

and paleontologist. Dawson was born in Nova Scotia and schooled

at McGill College in Montreal, the Royal School of Mines in London

and the Geological Survey of Great Britain. He published a considerable

body of influential scientific work. It was in 1884, when Dawson first came

to the Rockies as leader of the British Association for the Advancement

of Science Team, that he discovered Mount Temple. He named the peak

for Sir Richard Temple (1826–1902), who, after a notable career in India, in

particular as Governor of Bombay, returned to England and held numerous

public offices, including as Conservative MP and as Privy Councillor.

Glacier Lake Campground

2010-12-12T11:07:00.000-08:00

Incredible beauty at the beginning and at the end, a gorgeous streamside stroll and an elevating walk in a park like forest describe this trail. There are few campgrounds in the Rockies that can be characterized by one single feature, and Glacier Lake Campground is one of them. The sight across the lake, with looming peaks to the far westerly edge, is worth planting yourself on the beach to focus on this one single vision of lake and mountain. Exploring the far reaches of the west end of the lake is a day trip that sees modest traffic. Discovered in the spring of 1807 by David Thompson, the lake was named by Dr. James Hector of the Palliser Expedition 51 years later.

Distance: 8.9 km

Elevation gain: 189 m

Trailhead: GPS: N51 58 23.9 W116 45 34.5

Elevation: 1446 m

Summit of trail: GPS: N51 56 18.3 W116 49 14.8

Elevation: 1622 m

Glacier Lake Campground: GPS: N51 55 38.6 W116 50 14.1

Elevation: 1433

Trailhead:
Drive north on the Icefields Parkway for 78 km from its junction with the Trans-Canada Highway, or 1 km north of Saskatchewan Crossing. The trailhead parking lot is on the west side of the Parkway. The trail begins innocuously enough, planting you in the midst of a classic Rocky Mountain forest of lodgepole pine and spruce trees. At the 1 km mark, as the trail crosses the North Saskatchewan River, the forest suddenly opens to display an instant view of the Howse River Valley and its surrounding peaks. This is quite a staggering sight when it is not expected. Another 1.4 km places the trail at the Howse River lookout. A host of peaks awaits your viewing, including Mount Murchison to the far left, Mount Erasmus to the near right and Mount Outram straight ahead.

Travelling down to this valley bottom places the trail on the north side of the Howse River for about 1.5 km. This walk alongside this glacial silt river is exhilarating, as the vistas of the surrounding peaks become captivating. Sadly, though, within 20–25 minutes the trail leaves the Howse to pursue a lesser tributary and re-enters the narrower views within the forest. In the mountains, what goes down must go up, and the trail begins to ascend to 1622 m. After leveling off, the path roams through the lovely forest for 20 minutes before dropping sharply down to 1433 m to Glacier Lake Campground. The sharp descent is occupied by exposed roots and rocks, making it somewhat treacherous.

The decline ends just before the lake, and the trail forks with signage directing hikers to the campground. It is almost impossible to make your way to the campground without checking out the beach first, since the sight of the lake and surrounding peaks draws you like a magnet. The day trip will take you around the north end of Glacier Lake to the far west end. The lake is 3.8 km long and 750 m across, making it the fourth largest lake in Banff Park. A coarse trail parallels the water’s edge to the end of the lake where it becomes less visible as it reaches the flats of the braided glacial runoff stream feeding Glacier Lake. Continue to follow the main branch of the Glacier River for 4–5 km farther to approach Southeast Lyell Glacier. Climbing moraines on the right side of the river offers even more amazing views of the glacier.