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The Envelope from London: My Personal Connection to Shackleton

2026-04-10T19:42:00.003+05:30

The Envelope from London: My Personal Connection to Shackleton

The photograph depicts Shackleton (right) in the raw environment of the Antarctic. It highlights the desperate reality the men faced once the pack ice destroyed their ship Endurance.

A single envelope from London, which I received on 27th January 2001, sparked a personal journey into the harrowing history of Sir Ernest Shackleton and his legendary Endurance expedition.

I received the large envelope postmarked from London on January 27, 2001. Inside was a piece of history: a photograph of Sir Ernest Shackleton, accompanied by a handwritten note from the Picture Library of the Royal Geographical Society (RGS).

My journey to this photograph began in December 2000. After reading a compelling feature on Shackleton in National Geographic, I found myself deeply moved by his leadership and the sheer endurance of his crew during the ill-fated Endurance expedition. I decided to write my own account of his heroic Antarctic journey. So, I reached out to the RGS, an institution inextricably linked to the history of polar exploration. To my delight, they responded with the image you see above.

This sketch captures Sir Ernest Shackleton’s Endurance trapped in the relentless pack ice of the Weddell Sea circa 1915. What began as an ambitious attempt to cross Antarctica turned into one of history’s greatest stories of leadership and survival.

The Voyage of the Endurance

The Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition (1914–1917) was intended to be the first land crossing of the Antarctic continent. However, before even reaching land, Shackleton’s ship, the Endurance, became trapped in pack ice in the Weddell Sea. For ten months, the ship drifted with the ice until the pressure finally crushed the hull, forcing the 28-man crew to abandon ship and set up Ocean Camp on the shifting ice floes.

Shackleton’s Famous Recruitment Advertisement

The legendary recruitment ad for the Endurance expedition is thought to be the most iconic piece of copywriting ever written. Though historians continue to question its authenticity, the text endures as the ultimate testament to Shackleton’s honest and grueling brand of leadership. The famous ad worded something like this:

"Men wanted for hazardous journey. Small wages, bitter cold, long months of complete darkness, constant danger, safe return doubtful. Honour and recognition in case of success."

The letter from London which I received in 2001. Inside was this incredible shot of Sir Ernest Shackleton and the handwritten note.

"Out of whose womb came the ice?"

When the Endurance was lost, Shackleton ordered his crew to carry only two pounds of personal gear. To show that survival required sacrifice, he abandoned his Bible in the drifts, tearing out the flyleaf and a specific verse from Job 38: 29–30:

"Out of whose womb came the ice? and the hoary frost of heaven, who hath gendered it? The waters are hid as with a stone, and the face of the deep is frozen."

The Impossible Rescue

When the crew reached the desolate Elephant Island via lifeboats, Shackleton knew no one was coming for them. He took five men in the 22-foot James Caird and sailed 800 miles across the world’s most treacherous ocean to South Georgia. After a 36-hour forced march over uncharted glaciers, he reached a whaling station. His first priority wasn't rest; it was the men left behind. It took four attempts and four months to break through the ice, but when he finally returned, he achieved the impossible: every single member of his crew survived.

A portrait of resilience. Sir Ernest Shackleton, a man whose leadership turned a survival story into a masterclass for the ages. "I believe it is in our nature to explore, to reach out into the unknown," says Shackleton.

Why Shackleton Still Matters

Shackleton still remains a vital figure because he redefined leadership as the ultimate art of survival. When his primary mission crumbled, he pivoted without hesitation, prioritizing his team’s morale and physical safety over his original ambitions. His story is a powerful testament that in times of crisis, empathy and the ability to adapt are far more valuable than sticking to an obsolete plan.

Today, his story is taught at Harvard Business School and utilized by NASA. In a world of increasing volatility, his example proves that while we cannot always control our environment, we can control our response to it.

(Author's Note: The foundations of these writings were laid years ago, and I am deeply grateful to the Royal Geographical Society for the historical photographs and handwritten insights they shared with me, which helped me write my latest blog post on Shackleton's legacy.)

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The Secret Guests In Our Garden

2026-04-07T15:52:00.002+05:30

The Secret Guests In Our Garden

Two Common Tailorbirds huddle together on a slender branch under the large, green leaves of a Hibiscus plant; Golaghat, August 2021. Image: Mithu Das

At twilight in Golaghat, August 2021, my mother found two Common Tailorbirds perching under our hibiscus leaves. I caught the moment on my Nikon Coolpix.

There is a specific kind of magic that happens during the twilight—at the moment when the world begins to quiet down. In August 2021, in the heart of Golaghat town, I was settled into my evening routine with a cup of tea when nature decided to tap on my window. It wasn't a literal tap, but a whispered discovery from my mother. She hurried into my room, her eyes bright with excitement. She had spotted something special: a pair of tiny birds seeking refuge for the night in our garden, just a few steps from our front door.

I grabbed my Nikon Coolpix and stepped outside into the cooling evening air. Following my mother’s lead, I found the birds: two Common Tailorbirds (Orthotomus sutorius) were huddled together under the broad, protective leaves of our Confederate Rose (Hibiscus mutabilis). While these birds are known for their incredible skill in sewing leaves together to build nests, tonight they were simply looking for a bed.

The pair were already half-asleep, puffed up against the evening chill. They looked incredibly cute—two small puffs of feathers mirroring each other on a slender branch. I moved with extreme care. I didn't want to disturb them from their sleep. I adjusted my settings, focused, and captured the moment. The contrast of their soft, cream-colored bellies against the deep green of the Hibiscus leaves and the darkening blue sky was breathtaking.

When I showed the back of the camera to my mother, we both just stood there for a moment, admiring them. It was a reminder that you don't need to travel to a distant forest to witness the wonders of the natural world. Sometimes, they are sleeping right outside your door, tucked under a leaf.

It was more than just a successful photo opportunity; it was a fantastic evening spent in the company of family—both human and avian.

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The Crown Jewel of Jibjibe: A Close Encounter With Heliophorus tamu

2026-03-20T19:38:00.005+05:30

The Crown Jewel of Jibjibe: A Close Encounter with Heliophorus tamu

A colored pencil illustration of the Heliophorus tamu, or Powdery Green Sapphire. The butterfly is shown from a top–down view with its wings spread, revealing a brilliant metallic blue and turquoise center bordered by deep black and thin red-arched markings on the upper wingtips. It is perched atop a cluster of fuzzy white Ageratum–like wildflowers, surrounded by lush, layered green leaves rendered with realistic textures and shadows.

High above the winding trails of Jibjibe, where the mountain air remains crisp and the forest edges hum with life, a flash of metallic brilliance often catches the unsuspecting eye. It is here, nestled within the rugged beauty of the Himalayas, that one might encounter the Heliophorus tamu or Powdery Green Sapphire. Its presence is often a sign of a healthy, undisturbed environment where the intricate balance of flora and fauna remains intact.

There is a specific kind of magic that happens when you step out of the classroom and enter into the crisp, high–altitude air of Jibjibe. As an English teacher at North Pole Boarding School, my days are usually filled with the rhythmic cadence of English lessons and the lively chatter of students. But recently, a quiet moment near the school perimeter reminded me that some of the best lessons aren't found in textbooks—they are fluttering right in front of us.

It was one of those quintessentially perfect sunny days. I stood in the alleyway just outside the school gate, the rugged terrain of the Jibjibe hills rolling out before me like a crumpled carpet of green velvet. Sunlight played hide–and–seek across deep ravines, illuminating the hardy vegetation and wild thickets that clung to the steep slopes. I was standing there, mobile phone pressed to my ear, talking with my mother back home (Golaghat, Assam). The world felt vast and peaceful.

While I was busy talking on the phone, a flash of iridescent color caught my eye. There, perched atop a cluster of humble wildflowers just a few feet away, sat a tiny masterpiece of nature: a Powdery Green Sapphire (Heliophorus tamu). I lowered my phone, my voice trailing off as I became captivated by the visitor. Moving with quiet urgency, I launched my mobile phone camera and framed the shot vertically. To my surprise, the butterfly remained perfectly still, allowing me to capture several frames of its brilliance. For those who haven't had the pleasure of seeing one, this butterfly is a jewel of the Himalayas.

Infographic map detailing the known global range of the Powdery Green Sapphire (Heliophorus tamu), highlighting the species' habitat across the Himalayan mountain range.

The Powdery Green Sapphire is a signature species of Himalayan montane ecosystems. Its habitat is distributed from Kashmir through the central Himalayas to northern Myanmar. A small, striking butterfly belonging to the family Lycaenidae, it is renowned for the breathtaking metallic sheen of its wings. Depending on the angle of sunlight, the scales shift from a deep, velvety black to a brilliant, powdery neon green or electric blue.

Habitat and Ecology: Being a montane inhabitant, this butterfly usually live at high altitudes between 1500 and 3,000 meters. They are most active in forest edges and sunny clearings where they can regulate their body temperature.

Conservation Status and Emerging Threats: The Powdery Green Sapphire is not currently listed as "Endangered" on the IUCN Red List; instead, it is categorized as Not Evaluated or Data Deficient. Despite the lack of a formal "threatened" status, several ecological factors make it a species of emerging concern:

Habitat Specificity: Being restricted to a narrow elevation band makes them "islands" of biodiversity. They cannot easily migrate to neighboring ranges if their specific microclimate is disturbed.

The "Escalator Effect": Recent research into Himalayan biodiversity highlights a grim trend. As global temperatures rise, this species move to higher elevations to escape rising temperatures at lower altitudes. However, at these altitudes when they run out of "mountain" to climb, they can face risk of extinction.

Host Plant Reliance: Like many Lycaenids, their larvae are often host–specific, frequently feeding on plants in the Polygonaceae family. Any decline in these specific plants due to overgrazing or excessive land use can directly impact the butterfly population.

In Nepal and Bhutan, large portions of its habitat fall within national parks, but increasing infrastructure development (roads and hydropower) in high–altitude valleys remains a localized threat. It is currently considered locally common but globally under-studied. Its survival is primarily dependent on the preservation of high-altitude Himalayan forest corridors.The Nepali name of this butterfly is Alpaharit Neelampari

This Powdery Green Sapphire (Heliophorus tamu) made a stunning appearance on a sunny day, resting perfectly among the wildflowers of Jibjibe (elevation: 1503 m).

The sight of the Heliophorus tamu perched calmly amidst the greenery is a gentle reminder to appreciate the present moment. Jibjibe is more than a center for academic pursuit; it is a living gallery for creatures that appear hand-painted by a master artist. Next time the sun is out, I urge everyone to stroll through the wildflowers behind the school—there’s a Sapphire waiting for you.

About Mithu DasI am an English teacher at North Pole Boarding School in the beautiful hills of Jibjibe, Nepal. When I’m not in the classroom exploring the nuances of language with my students, you can find me exploring the rugged trails of Jibjibe, observing the incredible biodiversity of the Himalayas. Through my writing, I hope to share the unique stories and stunning landscapes of Jibjibe with the rest of the world, one butterfly or hilltop view at a time.

References:

PROPOSING NEPALI NAMES FOR THE BUTTERFLIES (LEPIDOPTERA: PAPILIONOIDEA) OF NEPAL - नेपालका पुतलीहरूका प्रस्तावित नेपाली नाम (July 2024) Authors: Sajan K.C., University of Florida; Mahendra Singh Limbu and Surendra Pariyar, Tribhuvan University; Anisha Sapkota, University of Florida.
FIRST RECORD OF HELIOPHORUS TAMU (KOLLAR, [1844]) (LEPIDOPTERA: LYCAENIDAE) FROM HIMACHAL PRADESH, INDIA: MORPHOLOGY, DNA BARCODING AND ECOLOGICAL INSIGHTS January 2026 Munis Entomology and Zoology Journal 21(1):282-287
Butterflies of Bhutan. Mountains, hills and valleys between 800 and 3000m. (2007); Van der Poel, P. and T. Wangchuk.
Wikipedia

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What Our World Will Look Like By 2050

2026-03-14T18:36:00.006+05:30

What Our World Will Look Like By 2050

The World in 2050: To the left, a thriving eco-futurist metropolis glows under a clear sky, featuring vertical forests, high-speed maglev trains, and buildings draped in solar panels and wind turbines. To the right, the literal 'other side of the coin' reveals a harsh environmental landscape, where a massive supercell storm and a raging wildfire threaten the coast—a sobering reminder that our future cityscapes will likely need to be built as resilient fortresses against an increasingly unpredictable climate. (Image generated by Gemini, Google's AI.)

By 2050, the world will likely be a study in contrasts: a planet grappling with more volatile nature while simultaneously deploying more sophisticated technology than ever before.

Based on current IPCC projections and scientific modeling, here is a snapshot of what life and the environment could look like mid-century.

1. The Physical Environment: A More Extreme Earth

The year 2050 is a significant milestone because many models suggest we will have reached or exceeded 1.5° C of warming compared to pre-industrial levels.

● Extreme Heat: Heatwaves that used to occur once every 50 years could happen nearly every year. In some regions, "wet-bulb" temperatures (a mix of heat and humidity) may reach levels where the human body can no longer cool itself outdoors.

An AI-rendered vision of New Delhi, 2050: A world of 52°C. When extreme heat becomes the daily norm, the foundations of urban life—water, movement, and health—are pushed to the breaking point. (Image generated by Gemini, Google's AI.)

● Water Volatility: The water cycle will "speed up." This means dry areas (like the Mediterranean and parts of Australia) will likely become much drier, while wet areas will face more frequent, intense flooding.

● Rising Tides: Global sea levels are projected to rise by roughly 15–30 cm (6–12 inches) by 2050. While this sounds small, it significantly increases the "reach" of storm surges, threatening coastal infrastructure for nearly 1 billion people.

Key Species Facing Climate-Driven Extinction by 2050 This detailed landscape map categorizes critically endangered species by their primary climate threats. The Golden Toad and the Bramble Cay Melomys (shown on the left) are actually already extinct by a changing climate. "Why then include extinct species in a 2050 map?" Because the road to 2050 didn't start today. The casualties of the early 2000s are the blueprint for what will happen to the rest if we don't change course. (Image generated by Gemini, Google's AI.)

2. Global Biodiversity and Food

The natural world will look noticeably different as ecosystems shift or struggle to keep up with the pace of change.

● Coral Reefs: Even in optimistic scenarios, 70% to 90% of coral reefs are expected to be lost or severely degraded due to ocean acidification and marine heatwaves.

● Amazon Ecosystems: By 2050, large swaths of the rainforest—particularly in the south and east—could transition into a dry savannah. This would mean a massive loss of biodiversity and the release of billions of tons of stored carbon, turning a "carbon sink" into a "carbon source."

● Agricultural Shifts: Traditional "breadbaskets" may move. For example, wine production might shift toward the poles (e.g., from France to the UK or Scandinavia), while staple crops in tropical regions may see significant yield drops.

● Extinction Risks: Roughly one-third of all plant and animal species could face extinction or severe population decline if they cannot migrate to cooler climates fast enough.

Amazon rainforest by 2050 Scientists estimate that between 10% and 47% of the Amazon could reach this tipping point. This transition is driven by a "vicious cycle": as trees are lost to logging and fire, the forest loses its ability to create its own rainfall, leading to longer droughts and further tree death. (Image generated by Gemini, Google's AI.)

3. The Human Experience: Adaptation and Technology

While the climate is harsher, human society will have spent decades "climate-proofing" itself.

The "Net-Zero" Economy

By 2050, many major economies aim to be Net Zero. You would likely see:

● The End of Internal Combustion: Most passenger vehicles will be electric or hydrogen-powered.

● Green Architecture: Cities will be filled with "sponge" infrastructure—parks and pavements designed to absorb massive amounts of rainwater to prevent flooding.

● Carbon Removal: Massive "Direct Air Capture" plants might be a common sight, literally vacuuming CO_2 out of the sky to help balance emissions.

Kathmandu Valley by 2050: where ancient heritage and high-tech sustainability coexist against the backdrop of the Himalayas. The melting of mountain glaciers, particularly in the Himalayas visible in this image, which is a complex process driven primarily by Climate Change. (Image generated by Gemini, Google's AI.)

The Social Reality

● Climate Migration: We may see "internal displacement" on a massive scale. People in low-lying areas or drought-stricken regions will likely migrate toward megacities or more stable northern/southern latitudes.

● Economic Impact: Climate change is expected to shave roughly 4% off global GDP annually by 2050 due to disaster recovery and lost productivity.

Assam 2050 Climate Change Impacts and Adaptations provide a comprehensive visual breakdown of the projected environmental challenges facing the Indian state of Assam and the technological solutions being deployed to counter them. (Image generated by Gemini, Google's AI.)

Summary Table: 2020s vs. 2050

Mean Temperature
Today: 1.1° C to 1.2° C
Projected 2050: approx. 1.5° C to 2.0° C

Arctic Ice
Today: Shrinking rapidly
Projected 2050: Likely "Ice-Free" summers

Amazon Ecosystems
Today: 17% deforestation Projected 2050: 25-40% deforestation and forest dieback

Population
Today: 8 Billion
Projected 2050: 9.7 Billion

Energy
Today: Fossil fuel dominant
Projected 2050: Renewables / Nuclear dominant

Water Stress
Today: Affects 1 billion people
Projected 2050: Affects 3.3 billion people

A Note of Hope: While these changes are "baked in" due to past emissions, the severity of the second half of the century depends entirely on how fast we transition now. 2050 isn't the end of the story—it's the pivot point.

Ever wonder what "Net-Zero" actually looks like? It’s not just about stopping emissions—it’s about balancing the scales. To hit our 2050 goals, we need a two-pronged attack: (1) Drastic Reductions: Swapping fossil fuels for renewables and getting serious about energy efficiency. (2) Active Removals: Investing in tech like Direct Air Capture (DAC) and protecting our natural carbon sinks like forests. (Image generated by Gemini, Google's AI.)

References:

IPCC Sixth Assessment Report
NASA Climate Portal

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Can AI Solve The Time Travel Equation?

2026-03-11T06:34:00.005+05:30

Can AI Solve The Time Travel Equation?

Into the Chronos Loop This high-concept digital artwork depicts Mithu Das, the author of this blog, seated at the helm of the "Gemini" temporal craft. As he prepares to bridge the gap between present-day computation and the mysteries of the fourth dimension, a swirling Einstein-Rosen bridge (wormhole) illuminates the high-tech laboratory. (Image generated by Gemini, Google's AI.)

I asked Gemini, Google’s AI: Can AI solve the time travel equation? Gemini replied that the idea of AI building a time machine is a fascinating intersection of science fiction and cutting-edge physics. What further information (with images) it has provided to us are mentioned below.

While Einstein gave us the blueprint for warping spacetime, he didn't give us the keys. For decades, the Alcubierre Drive and traversable wormholes remained locked behind "impossible" math. But what happens when we hand those equations to an intelligence that doesn't think like a human? We are entering an era where AI isn't just writing code; it’s beginning to simulate the very fabric of the universe. Is it possible that the first time machine won't be built by an engineer, but by an algorithm?

AI alone cannot "invent" time travel if the laws of our universe simply don't allow it. However, AI is already becoming a "super-collaborator" for physicists, helping them explore the mathematical loopholes that might one day make time manipulation possible.

"The Alcubierre drive is a theoretical faster-than-light (FTL) propulsion concept proposed by physicist Miguel Alcubierre in 1994, which manipulates spacetime to move a ship": Wikipedia. (Image generated by Gemini, Google's AI.)

1. How AI is Helping Today

Instead of building a physical "Delorean," AI acts as a high-speed calculator for the most complex math in existence:

● Solving Einstein’s Equations: The math governing spacetime (General Relativity) is incredibly difficult. AI can process millions of variables to find "metrics"—mathematical descriptions of spacetime—that might allow for things like wormholes or warp drives.

● Discovering New Physics: In 2023, AI algorithms began independently "rediscovering" physical laws from raw data. In the future, AI might find a "New Physics" (like a theory of Quantum Gravity) that explains how to bypass the flow of time.

● Simulating Paradoxes: AI can run simulations of "Closed Timelike Curves" (loops in time) to see if they are stable or if they would cause the universe to "break" (the Grandfather Paradox).

"The Tipler Cylinder, or Tipler Time Machine, is a theoretical general relativity concept proposed by Frank Tipler in 1974 that suggests time travel to the past is possible using an infinitely long, ultra-dense cylinder rotating near the speed of light.": Louis A. Del Monte. (Image generated by Gemini, Google's AI)

2. The Theoretical "Blueprints"

If AI were to design a time machine, it would likely be based on one of these three leading scientific theories:

● Wormholes: A shortcut through space-time connecting two distant points/times. AI could calculate the exact amount of "exotic matter" needed to keep the tunnel from collapsing.

● Tipler Cylinders: A massive, infinitely long cylinder spinning at near-light speeds to "twist" time. AI would be needed to manage the extreme gravitational stresses and orbital mechanics.

● Alcubierre Drive: A "warp bubble" that moves space around a ship rather than moving the ship itself.

AI could optimize the "shape function" of the bubble to reduce the energy required from "star-sized" to "ship-sized."

"Wormhole, solution of the field equations in Einstein’s theory of general relativity that resembles a tunnel which would provide a shortcut between its end points. In analogy, consider an ant walking across a flat sheet of paper from point A to point B. If the paper is curved through the third dimension so that A and B overlap, the ant can step directly from one point to the other, thus avoiding a long trek": Encyclopedia Britannica. (Image generated by Gemini, Google's AI)

3. The "Impossible" Barriers

Even with a super-intelligent AI, we face two massive hurdles:

● The Energy Problem: Most time-travel theories require Negative Energy or the mass of a whole star. AI can’t create energy out of thin air; it can only help us find more efficient ways to harness it.

● The Future-Only Rule: According to Special Relativity, we know how to travel to the future (it's called Time Dilation). If you fly near a black hole or travel at 99% the speed of light, you will return to Earth years in the future. AI could help us build the engines for this today. However, traveling to the past is still considered likely impossible by most physicists because it violates "causality" (cause must come before effect).

The Verdict: AI won't "make" a time machine in the sense of a gadget you buy at a store. But it might be the only tool smart enough to tell us if it’s even possible. If the blueprints for a time machine exist in the laws of physics, AI is the librarian most likely to find them.

H. G. Wells' Time Machine The concept of a time machine is one of the most resilient tropes in creative history, serving as a literal vehicle for exploring regret, curiosity, and the "what ifs" of human existence. The mechanical device was popularized by H. G. Wells in his novel The Time Machine (1895). (Image generated by Gemini, Google's AI.)

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Boudhanath Stupa: A Tourist Magnet in Kathmandu

2026-02-15T19:16:00.016+05:30

Boudhanath Stupa: A Tourist Magnet in Kathmandu

The Great Stupa of Boudhanath is being circumambulated by devotees, pilgrims, and locals.

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Boudhanath Stupa, also known as Boudha, Jarung Kashor, or Khasti Mahachaitya, is one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world. It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a premier tourist magnet in Kathmandu.

Since I moved to Nepal last year (2025)—and joined as an English teacher at North Pole Boarding School (I am grateful to Mr Krishna Bahadur Tamang who has appointed me to work at NPBS), which is situated at Jibjibe, Rasuwa District—my aim was to visit the Kathmandu Valley. So, after spending four busy months at Jibjibe, I went to Kathmandu to visit the Boudhanath Stupa.

It was the first day of great Teej. I got up early in the morning and caught the first EV to Kathmandu. It takes three-and-half hours on an EV to reach Kathmandu from Jibjibe. The road goes via Pasang Lhamu Highway which runs through hilly areas in a zigzag fashion, along the Trishuli River, and via Bidur before ascending Shivapuri Hill. At around 10:00 AM, our EV arrived at Naya Bus Park, Machhapokhari, from where I caught a citybus to Boudhanath. The citybus ran for thirty minutes until it reached Pashupatinath; then it came to an halt at Chahabil Chowk from where starts Boudhanath Sadak. Talking to the passenger sitting next to me on the citybus, I learnt that Boudhanath Stupa is familiar as Boudha (pronounced boe-da) among urbanites.

Chabahil Chowk, Kathmandu. The road on the right goes to Boudhanath—a few minutes' drive from this Chowk.

At Boudha, I got off from the citybus and started walking towards the entrance of the stupa. The whole area was quite crowded, even though it was still morning; people were walking from opposite direction, some of them wearing Maroon-colored robes; shops along the road were being started to open; traffic was moving slowly on the main road. As I entered into the premises of Boudha, I was stopped by two security guards, who were standing on the middle of the entrance, checking tickets. I showed them my school ID card, and they allowed me to go in. Thanks to NPBS!

"Wisdom Eyes" painted on all four sides on the Harmika of the Great Stupa. They are called 'Four Buddhas' which represents the basic qualities of awareness inherent in the enlightened mind.

As soon as I crossed the main gate, I caught the first glimpse of Buddha's Wisdom Eyes. They were looking at me—lovingly, compassionately. There was something in those eyes—something mysterious, devine, and heavenly. I felt immense gratitude for standing there under His unblinking peaceful gaze. It is believed that if a first-timer at Boudhanath make a wish as soon as they catch the first glimpse of the stupa, their wish will come true.

Mithu Das, the author of this blog, at Tamang Gumba, Boudhanath.

I slowly started walking towards the stupa around which people were circumambulating silently. Some were turning Mani wheels—which are fixed on the wall of the stupa—while others were lying on the ground with their arms stretching out in front, reciting OM MANI PADMA HUM. Everyone was being controlled by movement. It is believed that circumambulating the stupa (Kora), clockwise, three times or more, may bring good luck to anyone. Of course, Kora also helps to generate one's spiritual energy that breaks free from the attachments of the mundane world.

A devotee performing prostration Kora, a Tibetan spiritual practice, at Boudhanath.

Boudhanath Stupa is situated on the north of Kathmandu city, or twenty minutes' drive from Tribhuvan International Airport. It is the largest stupa in Nepal and one of the most visited tourist destinations in Kathmandu Valley, which was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979. For centuries, Boudhanath has been a place of pilgrimage for Tibetans. However, people from different parts of the world also visit it. The road on which the stupa is situated was once operated as a trade rout between Lhasa and Kathmandu. Tibetan traders, who reached Kathmandu with their yaks by crossing the high Himalayan passes, offered their sincere prayers to Boudha Stupa. According to Princeton Dictionary of Buddhism, together with Swayambhu and Namo Buddha Stupa, Boudhanath forms a triad of great stupas often depicted together in Tibetan literature. The area around the stupa was originally Tamang settlement; however, the people living around it today are Tibetan refugees who fled China after 1959. The stupa is surrounded by a great many monestries, souvenir shops, cafés and restaurants.

Pilgrims taking rest at a corner at Boudha.

There are many legends and myths about the origin of Boudhanath. According to Jarung Kashor (meaning "Let it be done, Slip of the tongue") legend, a long time ago, an old lady named Majhazima (or Jadzima) lived in the village—where the Boudhanath Stupa is situated today—with her four sons. She was a poulterer and belonged to low-caste. Being honest and hardworking, she managed to save some money by selling poultry over time. One day, the old lady met the King and asked him for a piece of land so that she could build a Boudha stupa there. The King granted her land covering the size of a water buffalo skin. The astute old lady cut a buffalo hide into thin pieces, and by making a long rope from it, she outlined a huge area of land and started building the stupa. After sometime—probably when the base was completed—the envious villagers attempted to destroy the progress of her work. Soon, they met the King and lodged an appeal against her: How dare a poultry seller construct such a big stupa? And why had the King granted her the land? The King, however, refused to take any action against the old lady, said, "Let it be done, Slip of the tongue."

A pilgrim at Boudhanath turning Mani Wheel (or Prayer Wheel) clockwise while reciting Avalokiteśvara's compassionate mantra OM MANI PADMA HUM.

There is another legend, this one is from Newar Chronicles, which identifies Boudhanath as Khasti Mahachaitya or Million Dew Drop Stupa: During the reign of Vrsadeva—the Great Licchavi King who ruled Nepal c.400–425—a worst drought affected the country. Deeply confused, the King seeked help from their oracles. The oracles advised the King to sacrifice a man who had possessed of thirty-two virtues. The king summoned his son, Manadeva, and told him to go to the royal well at the dawn and sever the head of a shrouded person he would find sleeping there. Manadeva, after obdiently following the order, stood petrified as he saw the severed head was his father's. Deeply baffled by this horrific incident, he left the court and started living as an ascetic in a temple.

A monk explaining the Wheel of Life to visitors at Tamang Gumba (or Guru Lhakhang Monastery) at Boudhanath.

One day, Goddess Bzrayogini appeared in his dream and told him to build a great shrine to Buddha, which would relieve him from his anguish. Politely listening to the Goddess's words, Manadeva started to build a big stupa on the site—"where white birds could settle"—that is, the place where Boudhanath Stupa is situated today. However, the drought was so severe that it had created huge impact on the construction of the stupa. Sheets were spread on the ground to be saturated with overnight dew; by the morning, the sheets were wrung out to collect the necessary water for the construction work. This is why Boudhanath is also called Million Dew Drop Stupa.

A monk praying at Boudhanath.

"Over the centuries Boudhanath has been embellished, fallen into disrepair, and again added to by saints and kings," writes Desmond Doig in his book In The Kingdom of The Gods. Yes, over the centuries, the Great Stupa has faced many adversities, from natural hazards to historical destruction and rapid urbanization. But despite all of this, the Stupa has surmounted all obstacles and stands as a beacon of Buddhism. On April 14, 2015, a magnitude of 7.8 earthquake striked Nepal which killed 9000 people and caused nationwide destruction. Boudhanath was also hit by the quake: its gold spire that sits atop the dome was severely damaged; however, the Wisdom Eyes were spared. After the earthquake, local people—without waiting for government fund to arrive —started to repair the stupa by themselves. "Local and foreign donors contributed more than $2m (£1.6m)," reported The Guardian. "Donors also gave 31kg of gold, which covers the structure’s pinnacle." After eighteen months, the Great Stupa had regained its former glory, thanks to the generous people of Kathmandu and the blessings of Boudhanath.

Nepali women celebrating Teej at Boudhanath. Nepal is a place where Hinduism and Buddhism have coexisted, mingled, and flourished together for centuries.

Refrences:

A Voyage to Nepal by Gustave Le Bon (1886)
Legend of the Great Stupa of Boudhanath by Keith Dowman (1973)
In The Kingdom of The Gods by Desmond Doig (1999)
Lonely Planet's Nepal
The Princeton dictionary of Buddhism (2014)
The Guardian: Nepal's earthquake-hit Boudhanath stupa reopens after restoration

Mithu Das, the author of this blog, was born a Hindu; but he eats, drinks, and sleeps Buddhism. This blog is their third one on Buddhism on Assambirds. So far, Das visited a few Buddhist temples and monasteries like Japanese Peace Pagoda and Buddhist Temple (Darjeeling); Ghoom Monastery; Buddhist Monastery at Bhitor Koliyoni (Golaghat); Namsai Buddha Vihar; Golden Pagoda, Namsai (Arunachal Pradesh); Guru Rinpoche Temple, Dhunche (Nepal); Swayambhunath and Boudhanath (Kathmandu).

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Avalokiteśvara: The Paragon Of Compassion

2024-12-25T18:46:00.012+05:30

Avalokiteśvara: The Paragon Of Compassion

The eleven-headed, thousand-armed Avalokiteśvara from Mount Jiuhua, Anhui, China. Image: Wikipedia

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Being the lord of compassion, Avalokiteśvara endeavours to rescue all living beings from suffering.

The first time I saw a picture of Avalokiteśvara, I was enthralled by it. With eleven heads and innumerable hands, he stands with their eyes closed, holding a jewel between his palms, and fervently praying to someone. Later, by accessing the Internet I was able to find detail about the picture—to whom he has been praying and for what. (The world's leading universities have published papers on Avalokiteśvara which are available on the Internet.)

Avalokiteśvara is one of the most famous bodhisattvas in Mahayana Buddhism. Being the lord of compassion, he endeavours to rescue all sentient beings from suffering.

Before we delve into the detail about Avalokiteśvara, we must first introduce ourselves with Bodhisattva, Maitreya and Amitābha.

Boddhisattva Simhanada Lokeshvara, the 108 forms of Avalokiteśvara, who resembles the Hindu God Lord Shiva. (Image downloaded from Mes Indes Galantes Blog.)

Bodhisattva: According to Princeton Dictionary of Buddhism, a bodhisattva is a “being (SATTVA) intent on achieving enlightenment (BODHI)”. (The Buddha was a bodhisattva in their past lifetimes before achieving the enlightenment.) "Although all traditions agree that the bodhisattva is motivated by “great compassion” (MAHĀKARUṆĀ) to achieve buddhahood as quickly as possible, Western literature often describes the bodhisattva as someone who postpones his enlightenment in order to save all beings from suffering." The Mainstream Buddhism introduces us to only two bodhisattvas: the Buddha in his previous lives and Maitreya, the future Buddha. "However, in the Mahāyāna tradition, many bodhisattvas are described as having powers that rival or even surpass those of the buddhas themselves, and come to symbolize specific spiritual qualities, such as AVALOKITEŚVARA (the bodhisattva of compassion), MAÑJUŚRĪ (the bodhisattva of wisdom), VAJRAPĀṆI (the bodhisattva of power), and SAMANTABHADRA (the bodhisattva of extensive practice)."

Guanyin is a female form of Bodhisattva Avalokiteśvara. Almost every household in China worships Guanyin. (Image downloaded from British Library.)

Maitreya: Maitreya (meaning “loving-kindness” or “benevolence”) is the future Buddha, who, it is believed, will born after 4500 years when the teachings of the current buddha Sakyamuni would decline. He will born in India and reestablish the Buddhist dispensation anew.

Amitābha: Several eons ago, a monk named Dharmakāra decides to follow the Boddhisattva path to Buddhahood. After spending five kalpas in meditation, he achieves the enlightenment and become Buddha Amitābha. Soon he forms 'Buddha-fields' or 'Pureland' which is based on Sukhavati. He makes forty-eight vows, among which, the eighteenth vow gains prominence as important one: if anyone recites his name—even less than ten times—they will attain salvation.

'Bodhisattva Avalokiteśvara was donated to the Musée Guimet in Paris, France, in 1889 by French archeologist Gustave Dumoutier.' (Image downloaded from Daily Art Magazine.)

Avalokiteśvara is guarding the world between the departure of the historical Buddha, Sakyamuni and the appearance of the future Buddha, Maitreya. He has many forms and is known by different names in different countries. "Without compromising loving-kindness, compassion, and altruism, Buddhism has had success moving from country to country, adding converts and respecting cultural differences," writes Jonathan Bowman. But wherever Buddhism transported to, went Avalokiteśvara with it. The bodhisattva known as Avalokiteśvara in India; Guanyin in China; Kannon in Japan; Lokeśvara in Vietnam, Java, and Cambodia; Lokanatha in Burma; Natha Deviyo in Sri Lanka; Karunamaya in Nepal; and Chenresi in Tibet.

A Bhutanese mural painting of Avalokiteśvara at Dodeydra Monastery, Thimphu. (Image downloaded from University of Virginia website)

The origins of Avalokiteśvara go back to second century CE and this bodhisattva appeared in north and northwest India. Chun-Fang Yu, the Sheng Yen Professor Emerita of Chinese Buddhism, explains the origins of this bodhisattva as a means competing with Hinduism as the two religions battled for prominence in India. She explains, "Developing alongside devotional Hinduism, Mahāyāna sutras such as the Karandavyuha Sutra, composed during the fourth to seventh centuries, used cosmic symbolisms reminiscent of Shiva and Vishnu in describing Avalokiteśvara. The bodhisattva was venerated as supreme deity in his own right."

Avalokiteśvara is androgynous and can take 108 different forms. It is said that each form is determined to alleviate beings' suffering. Some of their forms are feminine such as Guanyin, the other forms are of Vedic and Hindu origin. The early images of Avalokiteśvara was depicted as a prince who holds a lotus with his right hand and a water bottle with his left hand. He is portrayed as the lord of compassion who is adamant to help slake everyone's thirst. As Buddhism spread across East and Southeast Asia, Avalokiteśvara's images changed according to its new environment and cultures.

1,001 statues of Boddhisattva Kannon at Sanjūsangen-dō Temple, Kyoto, Japan.

The eleven-headed, thousand-armed Avalokiteśvara: According to one Buddhist story, Avalokiteśvara, seeing the misery of the world, vowed never to rest until he had freed all sentient beings from suffering. But despite his herculean efforts, he failed to hoist every sentient being out from the pits of suffering. The result: he became so exasperated that his head and two arms shattered into pieces. Amitābha, seeing Avalokiteśvara's appalling dilemma, appeared in front of him and gathered eleven pieces of shattered head, turned each piece into a full head, and returned back each head to Avalokiteśvara. Amitābha also gave him one thousand arms—each arm has an eye in its palm—so that he can scan pain and suffering of the world.

Avalokiteśvara in Tibet: Chenresi is the Tibetan version of Boddhisattva Avalokiteśvara. Chenresi meaning "One Who Sees with Eyes." It is believed that Tibetans are a people chosen by Avalokiteśvara, and he incarnates as Dalai Lama. This bodhisattva is worshipped as a male god with their Mantra of Compassion: "Om mani padme hum!" (Oh Thou with the Jeweled Lotus!)

A Nepalese figure of Avalokiteśvara Maheśvara, dated to the 14th century. (Image downloaded from Wikipedia.)

Mahesvara and Simhanada Lokeshvara: Mahesvara is one of the famous forms of Bodhisattva Avalokiteśvara. Interestingly, the Hindu God Shiva is also known as Mahesvara. Is there any possibility that Boddhisattva Mahesvara is actually Lord Shiva? According to Mahayana Buddhism, the origin of Avalokiteśvara lies in Hindu dieties, including Shiva. Similarly, Simhanada Lokeshvara, the 108 forms of Avalokiteśvara, resembles the Lord Shiva. Mes Indes Galantes Blog writes: "Simhanada Lokeshvara is particularly venerated for protection from diseases and for facilitating healing. His hairstyle is a bun that characterizes ascetics in India and Asian countries. He is naked, without jewelry, he only has a tiger skin around his waist and is seated on a lion. In his right hand, he holds a white trident around which a white snake is also coiled. In his left hand, he carries his typical attribute: the lotus, but here a flaming sword is placed on it."

Sources: The Princeton Dictionary of Buddhism; Buddhism through Avalokiteśvara’s Transformations by Jonathan Bowman; A Dictionary of Asian Mythology by David Leeming; Encyclopedia Britannica; Wikipedia; Buddhanet; Mes Indes Galantes Blog.

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My Trips To Guwahati

2024-12-07T09:16:00.007+05:30

My Trips To Guwahati

Kamakhya Temple: It is one of India's archaeological gems and Shakti Pithas, situated on Nilachal hills, Guwahati.

Guwahati is a sprawling metropolis, hub of Assam's financial world and home to some of Assam's richest archaeological gems.

People go to Guwahati on business trips, thinks my mother. So, last year—some day in October—when I came back home from office and told her that I was going to Guwahati the next morning, she didn't seem to be worried. Instead, she asked me: "Are you going for official work?"

"Yes." I said.

"With your boss?"

"No," I replied, "I'm going with the Junior [boss]."

"All right," she said. "Don't forget to visit your grandad's house."

Every time my mother hears that I'm going to Guwahati, she entreats me to visit grandad's house. My grandad—who moved to Guwahati in the mid-1950s—died a long time ago. However, their two sons—both are businessman—live at Kala Pahar with their families. We haven't seen each other for a long time, and this is the reason why she was pressing me to meet them.

The next morning we started our journey to Guwahati in Junior's car. Being an excellent driver, Junior drove us carefully on the national highway: controlling speed limits on every spot through Kaziranga National Park, coming down Burapahar hill in a low gear, and driving on the four-lane (from Nagaon) at amazing speed. Though it was a long ride—two hundred and eighty-six kilometres—it was quite an adventure for us.

Traffic jam on MD Shah Road, Paltan Bazaar, Guwahati

We reached Jorabat at twelve noon. From there we drove on the zigzag hilly road until we reached Khanapara. After a few minutes, we entered the city centre and I could see through the windshield the busy marketplace and the tall buildings; people were busily walking on the pathways; some were gathering around street vendor stalls; on the other side of the road divider, a long line of vehicles—cars, city buses, auto rickshaws, e-rikshaws, and motor cycles—stuck in traffic jam. The whole place was in tumult.

Guwahati city nestles between the banks of the Brahmaputra river and the foothills of Meghalaya. It is a sprawling metropolis and hub of Assam's financial world. Known as the gateway of Northeast India, it has an international airport and shipyards. It is well connected by roads and railways with the rest of India.

People are roaming inside Kamakhya Temple compound.

Besides of its commercial fame, Guwahati is rich in history. It is home to some of Assam's richest archaeological gems: Kamakhya Temple, Umananda Temple, and Navagraha Temple are a few among them. The city also offers many attractions to tourists: Assam State Zoo, Planetarium, State Museum, Sankaradeva Kalakshetra, Nehru Park, Accoland, Saraighat Bridge, Guwahati Ropeway, and River Cruise on the Brahmaputra.

We arrived at our destination—Bhaskar Nagar—at 1:00pm and delivered our files to some office. We had to collect the files again after two days, so we decided to book in at hotel. Junior helped me to find a good hotel, and he also paid the bill for accommodation and food.

Stone image of a deity on the wall of Kamakhya Temple.

The next morning I got up at seven o'clock and got myself ready to venture outside. After sipping a hot cup of tea at a street vendor stall, I caught a citybus to see the Kamakhya Temple. The bus run for forty minutes on the zoo road via Pan Bazzar and along the banks of the Brahmaputra before reaching Kamakhya Gate.

The Kamakhya Temple is situated on Nilachal hills in the west of the city, on the banks of the Brahmaputra river. It is India's one of the holiest places, a Shakti Pitha and renowned for its Tantric practices. Every day the temple is visited by a great many people. The Ambubachi Mela is celebrated during the month of June, which attracts thousands of devotees from all over India.

Guwahati Railway Station

The history of Kamakhya Temple dates back to 4th or 5th century AD. Nara Narayan, the king of the Kamta Kingdom, rebuilt it in 1565 AD. However, the temple was known to only fewer people before the Britishers came to India. The temple had come in the limelight—in the 19th century—when Bengali Shakta Hindus started to frequent it.

It took us ten minutes to reach the top of Nilachal hills from Kamakhya Gate on an auto rickshaw. The area is surrounded by shops, hotels, restaurants and residential buildings, and the temple itself atop the hill. As soon as I entered the temple premises, I struck by the majestic grandeur of the Kamakhya Temple.

A ropeway vehicle leaving North Guwahati Ropeway Terminal for Pan Bazaar, Guwahati city.

The temple wasn't crowded with visitors. However, I could see people lined up in long queues in front of the door which leads to the temple's sanctum sanctorum or Garvgriha. I roamed around the temple and offered a puja by lighting earthen lamps and inscenses. Of course, before I made an exit I didn't forget to treat myself with the prasad which the temple volunteers were offering to everyone: a plate full of khichri, papad, dry sabji, and rice pudding. The prasad was truly delicious.

On my way back from Kamakhya Temple, I got off at Pan Bazaar. After roaming into the crowded bazaar for half an hour, I started walking towards the river bank where the Ropeway Terminal is located. The Guwahati cable ropeway has been offering service to people since 2020. It covers 1.8 kilometres over the Brahmaputra river and Umananda Temple, connecting Guwahati city with North Guwahati.

Umananda Island seen from the ropeway vehicle.

I entered the cable ropeway station, bought a ticket and walked into the lounge where a lot of passengers—couples, parents with their children, groups of travellers, young men and women—were eagerly waiting for their turns to ride on the ropeway. I could see through the window the massive ropeway towers standing in the waters across the river [Brahmaputra], and each tower is connected with cables. A ropeway vehicle was running on it. I felt a bit uncanny seeing the vehicle moving several hundred feet above the water.

We went up in the lift to the ropeway platform which is situated on the 4th floor. After a few minutes an empty ropeway vehicle arrived and we were ushered into it. Immediately, a security guard joined us and locked the door from inside. The vehicle slowly started to move forwards; after a few seconds it crossed the river banks and started to run over the vast water. "Wow!" Exclaimed a passenger who was looking down at the river.

The river was more than two hundred feet below us; and I felt a tingling in my feet. Soon we reached the ropeway tower and the whole Brahmaputra river appeared in front of us. It was a really large and wide river; and I could see the lines of trees and buildings along the river banks stretched into the horizon. Some of the passengers started taking photos with their mobile phones. Then, we reached the Umananda Temple—a small island covered by trees and rocks—which is situated in the middle of the river. The woman in the yellow sari standing nearby me bowed her head with a namaskar to the temple. After a few minutes we literally landed on North Guwahati.

Animal lovers gather in front of giraffes' shelter at Assam State Zoo, Guwahati.

On my second trip to Guwahati—this time I went by bus and returned by train, alone—I visited the zoo. The Assam State Zoo cum Botanical Garden is situated right in the centre of Guwahati city. The zoo is covered by forested highlands and shelters a good many species of mammals, birds and reptiles.

The day I visited the zoo it was densely crowded. Besides, it was a very hot day—thirty-eight degrees celsius. It was the summer vacation, someone told me, which had been encouraging people to visit the zoo.

Two sambar deers wallowing on a pond at Assam State Zoo, Guwahati.

I bought a ticket and entered the zoo. There were people everywhere, roaming on the pathways from one place to another in search of their favorite animals. I wanted to see my own favorite animal—the tiger; so I started to walk to the direction showed by the zoo map, stopping here and there in front of other animals' shelters. On my way I had seen a group of sambers, two giraffes, a troop of langurs, several herds of deers, one leopard, and one rhino.

The author of this blog in the ropeway vehicle.

After a few minutes I came near a road junction, and I saw a small crowd assembled in front of an iron-barred window, watching something excitedly in the distant. I came near them and quickly glanced over their heads: it was a Royal Bengal tiger. There were two tigers, actually: one was lying on the grass and the other was standing by it. Although we were excited to see the tigers, none of them seemed to be paying attention to us! I gave the tigers a salute and left the zoo.

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My Mother Celebrates Dhanteras Her Way
Bortol
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My Mother Celebrates Dhanteras Her Way

2024-11-12T20:15:00.012+05:30

My Mother Celebrates Dhanteras Her Way

Women buying metal utensils on Dhanteras ahead of Diwali festival at Boring road on November 2, 2021 in Patna, India. (Photo by Santosh Kumar/Hindustan Times via Getty Images)

Hindus believe that buying materialistic things at Dhanteras—the day Goddess Lakshmi arrives, just before Diwali—can bring luck and prosperity. On this day the market can be seen packed with people: moneyed people buy gold, expensive clothes, cars, etc.; the middle class buy silver, utensils, electronic goods, clothes, etc.; but both classes buy brooms—which is considered to be a lucky object.

At every Dhanteras, my mother, who is a pious woman, eagerly rush to the market. Last year she bought a large cauldron (God knows what she will do with it!) But this year she was able to buy only a pair of brooms. She also advises my brother to buy something; and she will look at me and suggest buying a pen or a book.

In Assam, Dhanteras has never been a part of our culture. In the past it was popular among Hindi-speaking people in Guwahati. Nowadays almost everyone in every city and town celebrates it with great enthusiasm, thanks to social media and consumerism. However, it has not gained in popularity in villages. People there will have been trying to figure out why townies rush to markets at this day. It may also shock them to hear the jaw-dropping price of brooms: A single broom which is sold at Rs.50/ at usual day can be sold at Rs.150/ at Dhanteras.

My mother has started to celebrate Dhanteras since 2019. She always buys utensils or clothes to welcome Goddess Lakshmi. I often ask her why she don't buy gold, and she replies, "I don't have the wherewithal."

"And where the wherewithal will come from?" I ask myself; but before I say anything, she adds, "To make Goddess Lakshmi happy, you need to buy something new—anything—not necessarily gold."

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Bortol
The Death of Shakyamuni
Do You Believe In God?
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Bortol

2022-11-20T22:06:00.009+05:30

Bortol

People ighting earthen lamps and inscense under the banyan tree at Bortol.

Every year, people come in their hordes to attend the mela at Bortol. They offer ducks and ash gourds to the temple and ask god to fulfill their wishes. The unique prasad is another attraction to them.

Bortol, which is a place of worship for Hindus, has been attracting me for a long time. I heard many stories about it, some of which I found to be quite interesting. Though it is not far from my hometown Golaghat, I couldn't arrange a visit to it, especially when melas were organized there.

Last Saturday, that was 5th November (I started writing this blog on 9th), when I was buying groceries at a shop, I heard two people were talking about Bortol.

"We're going to the mela at Bortol tomorrow," one man said to another. "Are you going?"

"Oh yes," the another man replied, enthusiastically. "We have been planning for a month to attend the mela."

I enthralled listening to their conversation; and immediately I decided to go to the mela. The following morning, I went to our office, picked the scooty up from the garage, jumped on it, and twisted the eccelerator. Within a few minutes I found myself in the outskirts of town.

The road from Golaghat to Bortol runs through beautiful countryside. One can see green fields of rice crops or small tea gardens along both sides of the road. Nearby the fields lie villages which are surrounded by tropical evergreen trees. On the way, you can stop by (Birangana Sadhoni) Kalakshetra or Jugibil Lake for a cup of tea or selfie.

People are walking on the main road to Bortol.

As I was approaching Akamoluwa Gaon, the village where Bortol is situated, I saw e-rikshaws full of people were heading towards it; also, a motorcycle or a car was driving past me occasionally. A few minutes later, I reached the main gate to Bortol, and I found myself amid congestion. Cars and e-rikshaws were parked on both sides of the road, which made difficult for people to walk through it, let alone to ride a motorcycle. So, I parked my scooty at a parking place and started walking towards the temple.

The road was pretty crowded. People were walking from both directions: those who attended prayers were returning from the temple while we were heading towards it. Along both sides on the road locals put up temporary hotels and stalls on which you could buy earthen lamps, inscense, mustard oil, matchboxes, and water bottles.

People are roaming inside Bortol compound.

As I was nearing Bortol, the crowd was thickening, and I had to push my way to the entrance of the temple. Then, leaving the main road, I stepped onto a grassy patch and found myself standing in front of a banyan tree. It was a big tree whose top branches spreading over the temple compound and lower branches touching the ground. Under the tree lies a tin-roofed temple which was overcrowded. I saw people were busy lighting earthen lamps and inscense under the tree. Smoke was slowly rising from burning inscenses, filling the whole place.

People gather under the banyan tree, performing puja. Smoke is rising from burning inscenses.

On the other side of the temple, people were standing in queue in front of a makeshift shelter. They were holding in their hands a pati duck and an ash gourd. Two volunteers, who were standing at the entrance of the shelter, were accepting the ducks and gourds from them and putting the things into the shelter one by one. I came near the shelter and peeked inside it, and I couldn't believe my eyes. Hundreds of pati ducks were kept there: all alive, quacking, flaping their wings, eating something from the ground. Near the makeshift was kept a big pile of ash gourds.

"How many ducks are here?" I asked one volunteer, who was a young man, wearing white shirt and dhoti and a gamosa around his neck.

"I can't say accurately," he told me, smiling. "May be two thousand or more."

Ducks offered to the temple at Bortol is being kept in a makeshift shelter.

I looked at the ducks and took some pictures; then I turned my camera towards the huge pile of gourds. I didn't ask the young man how many gourds there could be; but I was sure that the numbers of gourds would far exceed the numbers of ducks.

Nearby the makeshift there was a kitchen in which temple volunteers were cooking rice and duck meat with gourds. It's a tradition in Bortol that the temple should distribute rice with duck curry as prasad to its devotees.

The huge pile of ash gourds at Bortol.

It is believed that anyone who offers a pati duck or an ash gourd to the temple, their wishes will be fulfilled. This is why people come in their hordes to join the mela which is organised on a Sunday between mid-October and mid-November every year. However, not everyone who comes here offers duck or gourd to the temple; some come to roam the mela while others come to eat the prasad; but the majority of people come to kneel in prayer under the banyan tree.

History of Bortol

I wanted to know the history of Bortol. So, I contacted Mr Diganta Saikia, the secretary of the temple, who gave me some information about the place.

A man is carrying a gourd in one bag and a duck in another to the temple at Bortol.

The history of Bortol goes back to one hundred and fifty years, or maybe two hundred years, said Mr Saikia. The place where the banyan tree stands today was once a big field covered with grass patches, and cowherds grazed cattle on this land. Every now and then the cowherds made picnic near the tree. Then, one day, somebody in the village had a dream: the god Dangoria Baba was talking to him: "Offer me a pati duck or an ash gourd and I will fulfill your wishes." The next day, the news spread like wild fire through the village, and people rushed to the banyan tree and performed a puja under it. As time went by, more and more people started visiting the place. However, after social media exploded in popularity, Bortol has received the most attention on it.

The Prasad—rice and duck curry with gourds—is distributed in aluminum foil by the temple. (This image was downloaded from Facebook.)

How to reach Bortol

There are several ways to Bortol. If you make your way Bortol by NH-37, take PHG Path via Dergaon, or Dhodar Ali via Komargaon; if you come by NH-39, take Golaghat Dimapur Road. From Golaghat town, one can take Mission-Club Road and go along the road through Tenpur to Bortol.

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