Ivi (ΗΒΗ, pronounced eevee, like the pokémon) is a downright beautiful spot; its enormous windows let plenty of light in and offer a view to (and a few tables on) Eksarheia Sq., its natural wood tones and sleek lines evoke a pleasant and calm feeling. It’s basically a café-bar like most others, at least in theory; this one just “gets it” much better than its competitors, a crowd not small in number, especially in a neighbourhood like Eksarheia.

I’ve come here several times with my laptop or notebook to do some writing, studying or other work in peace, something Ivi is apparently quite popular for. Maybe it’s the music that isn’t as disturbingly loud as in other areas, maybe it’s the motivational signs on the wall made of sawdust boards… Perhaps it’s their small collection of clever books. No, I’ve got it: it’s their cozy mezzanine. To top it all off, the prices are completely reasonable I’d say. Give HBH a visit if you’re in central Eksarheia, it’s a welcome change of environment.

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HBH Coffee Bar | Bars, Coffee & tea | Freddo Espresso € 3
Stournari 2 | +302155100787
08:00 – 01:00 daily

One of the things I used to do with my dad when I was little was go to the planetarium. Most of the pop science narration flew right over my young head but the feeling of looking at the old-school dome, filled with stars and cute little wandering planets (a Greek word which literally means wanderers, as the ancient Greeks called them because, contrary to the rest of the stars, they slowly moved across the sky) has stayed with me to this day.

In fact, today I can safely say that some of the groundwork for my big love for the sky was laid then, in the Eugenides Planetarium. That and the foundation it belongs to, one of the most important scientific institutions in Greece, matured as well as I did and 2003 saw the opening of its new digital dome, a must for anyone with even a passing interest in astronomy, the sciences or audiovisual stimulation. New films with themes ranging from space junk to the evolution of life on earth to trips around the solar system come out every few months so there’s always something new on show. Unofortunately, most shows are offered only in Greek dubs and narration but I suggest that you do not let that stop you.

In the same building you can find an interactive scientific exhibition the sort of which I just love and the planetarium’s boutique. Bus lines 550 and B2 can get you there from the cenre of the city. Stop ΕΥΓΕΝΙΔΕΙΟ (Evgenidio).

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Eugenides Digital Planetarium | Cinemas, Relaxing | Dome projection € 8
Syggrou 387 | +302109469600
Mon – Fri 17:30 – 20:30, Sat – Sun 10:30 – 20:30

Years ago, I watched The Yellow Submarine here with my father. (it was a reissue, I’m not that old!) That single time sticks out in my mind, even though I’ve been there many times since.

It’s no mistake; Danaos is one of the cinemas you can count on. It’s one of those you go to when you haven’t managed to keep up with all the new films, so you check what it‘s playing first, because you know that it will be playing the good ones. Not the overly underground art house ones, not the unashamed blockbusters either; the good ones, be they Hollywood, animated films, European, even Greek cinema, which is flourishing in recent years.

Danaos is located really central, practically next to Panormou with all its bars and easy access. Watching a film and then going for a beer near-by is a combination that’s quickly becoming a personal favourite of mine, especially on Wednesdays when entrance goes for just €5.

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Danaos Cinema | Cinemas | Ticket from € 5
Kifisias 109 | +302106922655
Evenings daily

The Wee Dram is most definitely the Scottish pub of Athens, a little island of Highland pride, hospitality and warmth far into Europe’s South. Where should I begin? Happy Hour on Tuesdays & Wednesdays (a pint for just € 2.50!), pub trivia every Friday, live music on weekends, football nights, exclusive Scottish beers and whiskey… There’s not nearly enough space to mention everything going on and rest assured: no other pub in Athens even comes close to the variety, quality, prices and environment offered here.

I’ve visited The Wee Dram several times but probably the best was on my nameday. I had a fantastic Innis & Gunn (apparently they don’t carry this one anymore but they have similar quality brews) and my friends had something to eat. We could’ve had it much cheaper but it was well worth it. Quite possibly the best beer I’ve ever had.

Another thing I like about this place is the guy who runs it. Ross is very friendly and laid back and he’ll make sure you feel at home and want to visit again.

The Wee Dram is located in Panormou close to several other highlights of mine, including Danaos and Playce (check out the articles). You should definitely try going to the movies on a Wednesday at Danaos and then hang around for a beer right here. Film + pint of beer for less than € 8; this has got to be one of the best deals and evenings one can get in Athens.

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The Wee Dram | Bars | 500ml Beer € 3.50
Konopisopoulou 23 | +302106916509
Tue – Fri from 18:00, Sat – Sun from 15:00

Situated in the beating heart of the Athenian cultural and night life which is Kerameikos, next to low houses and other cafés and bars, Beduin has got to be one of my favourite spots in this part of the city, if not all of Athens.

I’ve been visiting it since 2008, which is when chance brought me to it while exploring the streets of Kerameikos. I was with my ex girlfriend and we were astonished that Beduin had a go set, which we happily used for me to teach her how to play. Today it’s in the cupboard at the very bottom of the stacks of other games, interesting books and 15-year old issues of National Geographic.

Beduin has a very special, almost mystical atmosphere. Just have a look at their website: it carries over that feeling unexpectedly well. The entrance framed by bougainvilleas, the high ceiling, the dark wooden furniture and floor that give off an essence of northern Africa, relaxed music just at the right volume, the warm colours. It all comes together to make for a very cozy place all-year-round.

I’m also happy to say that the spot’s special quality also reflects on the variety of edibles and drinks on offer. Cheap beers, a huge range of coffee and teas, rakomelo as the neighbourhood strictly necessitates (no complaints here!), and great food, with emphasis on Cretan specialties. You should try the dakos (pictured) and the organic beer from Rethymno. Mondays 40% off on drinks!

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Beduin at gazi | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks | Brink’s Organic Beer € 3.80
Dekeleon 32 & Elasidon
Mon – Thu from 17:00, Fri – Sun from 12:00

Another one of these great places that are right in my neighbourhood, Shisha Coffee is an undeservedly little-known locale on Nea Smyrni Square. You can find some of the best and cheapest shishas (hookahs) in Athens here: €4 for a regular one or €6 for the “natural” one which includes half a real apple on top which makes the smoke smoother. There’s a wide selection of tobacco flavours for both kinds; everything one would expect from a good shisha café. The drinks on offer don’t include too much alcohol but I suggest you try the guava juice instead.

Shisha Coffee has two floors with large interior spaces and high ceilings. It also has a couple of cozy little balconies overlooking the town square but if you’re not bringing your date but all of your hookah-loving friends instead, the large couches inside will accommodate you plenty.

The decoration is decidedly oriental kitsch, as I suppose you can see in the picture above. The upper floor is mostly illuminated by the blue neon lights and blaring TVs, allowing the hookah charcoals to glow in the darkness. At the same time there’s something authentic about the decoration too; I’d expect the more classy/shiny shisha places in Egypt to not be that different to this one. There’s a guy who changes the embers of the shisha from time to time that adds to the effect, it’s something I’ve only seen done in Turkey.

You can get to Shisha Coffee by tram, getting off at stop Agias Fotinis.

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Shisha Coffee | Coffee & tea | Regular shisha € 4
2as Maiou 6 | +302109327400
10:30 – 03:00 daily

The arrival of summer in Athens is something like an event: the high temperatures and the sweet climate just won’t let you stay at home. One of the most popular summer activities of the Athenians, since the early ’50s, is the open-air cinema.

While for the rest of the world, summer is the blockbuster release season, for Athens, cinema follows the lazy summer pace: during warm summer nights, you watch a movie under the starry sky, drinking your ice cold beer.

One of these open-air cinemas is “Thisseion”. Thisseion is located 3 minutes away from the Thisseio train station. My personal favorite thing is to walk down Dionysiou Aeropagitou street, around the Acropolis hill and end up in Thisseion to watch a movie under the stars. Maybe the sound quality is not the best (it’s open-air!) and the screen is not digital 3D, but the quality of the projection is more than enough for a relaxed movie night.

Especially Thisseion, except the in-the-season movies, shows classic movies from the ’50s and ’60s, such as Hitchckok’s “Vertigo” and Wyler’s “Roman Holiday”. What is better than watching these movies in a cinema as old as the movies themselves, in a warm summer night in the city, right under the Acropolis?

Latest News: Thisseion Cinema is featured in the Top 10 Open Air Cinema of the World by CNN! See the article here! We wrote it first .

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Thisseion Cinema | Cinemas, Relaxing
Apostolou Pavlou 7 | +302103420864
Apr – Oct 20:00 – 01:00 daily

Some weeks ago, a friend of mine called to tell me that she and some other friends were heading towards Vyzantino, a tavern at Strefi hill. I hadn’t been to the place before and I was a bit lazy to get there. I decided to go since it was Friday and the weekend has to start well.

I walked Emm. Benaki all the way up to Kallidromiou, to Strefi hill. From there I took a paved path into the hill ( I was a bit reluctant I must admit) and I ended up in a glade. Right there it was Vyzantino- I would never find it by chance.

Vyzantino is a wonderful place on the hill, surrounded by pine trees, with nice food and reasonable prices. It’s a place often found in Greek mountain villages, but I never expected to discover such a place at the heart of Athens. The atmosphere was so relaxed and friendly that we ended up staying there till late at night despite the light rain that fell occasionally.

I am really enthusiastic about Vyzantino, I must admit! And I will repeat myself: the food is very very good,with a great variety of traditional and tradition-inspired mezedes with also a remarkable choice of vegetarian dishes (something not very common in Greece). The prices are very very reasonable and the spot more than one can expect. As simple as that! It takes some walking up to the hill but it definitely deserves it!

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Vyzantino | Restaurants (Greek) | 5 dishes & ouzo € 35
Lofos Strefi | +302103301744
11:00 – 02:00 daily

Many places in Athens claim to be “art spaces”, “art cafes” or in general art related – and they probably are, I won’t argue about that.

There is one place though, that is an official art cafe, with a degree. That is the cafe (or the cafeteria) of the National School of Fine Arts. The Alumni Association of National School of Fine Arts is also hosted here. So, yes it is official!

The cafe is located in a house with a yard in Plaka, at Tholou street. As its name denotes, it is a student cafeteria; that means that the menu is limited to beers, refreshments and some alcohol. That also means that the prices are student prices, so I think that it is the cheapest place in Athens – and I say that taking full responsibility.

So, why go to this student cafe? Not for old times sake, but because of the quiet, fresh yard. The building is a traditional Athenian house under the Acropolis: the entrance leads to an internal yard with trees, surrounded by “rooms” where people used to live and are now used as ateliers by the students . The character of the cafe is revealed by the various statues in the yard and some exhibitions that occasionally take place.

So, after a long wander in Plaka, rest your tired body and sunburned head in the Cafe of NSFA!

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National School of Fine Arts cafe | Art & culture, Coffee & tea | Beer € 2.50
Tholou, Plaka
18:00 – 01:00 daily

I have been hearing about the Train in Rouf for a long time now, but never had the chance to visit it until few weeks ago. I must admit I was impressed!

The Train in Rouf is a well preserved old train in its natural environment, a train station. Theatrical plays, music performances and art exhibitions take place in the train wagons. The theater wagon is reformed as a theatrical scene, the wagon bar, with its wooden decoration and low lights creates a mysterious, retro atmosphere, while the restaurant wagon is as taken from those old time movies, where so many things could happen on a train…

The schedule varies from season to season. In the summer you can have a drink of wine on the dock and in the winter you can dine in the wagon restaurant, experiencing a unique atmosphere. Feels like you are in a movie… Anna Karenina maybe..?

Visit the website to find out more about the current schedule!

Enjoy the ride!

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To Treno Sto Rouf | Art & culture, Bars, Theaters, Restaurants
Konstantinoupoleos, Rouf Station | +302105298922
Wed – Sun 20:00 – 01:00 & depending on events