Top 4 Totally Missable Destinations in Croatia

Opatija

In the 19th century, Opatija was an exclusive holiday resort built for wealthy members of the Austro-Hungarian empire. The coast is lined with hotels, restaurants and villas designed solely to cater to tourists visiting from colder climates. There is no history, culture or even a proper beach.

This is what passes for a beach in Opatija and unfortunately is quite a typical scene along the Istrian peninsula all the way up to Trieste in Italy. Concrete ‘beaches’ which are often extensions of the overpriced hotels which line the coast.

Photo credit: lostajy

Opatija survives on package tourism. It’s for tourists who want to remain within a couple of hundred metres of their hotel. Who want to sip on insipid cocktails and eat generic food. It’s a hideous place.

Rijeka

Rijeka is Croatia’s main industrial port city. Port cities can be dynamic, interesting places. Rijeka is not.

Bakar

For whatever reason, when we visited Rijeka the entire city was fully booked so we had to move on to find a hotel for the night. A couple of very friendly petrol station attendants rang around and found a hotel for us at nearby Bakar. It was late so we were grateful for the help. The next morning we awoke to one of the most peaceful locations in Croatia. Not a tourist in sight and a cute village almost to ourselves.

We were staying in a former nautical school which had clearly seen better days but to which I was completely drawn. I imagined setting up my typewriter laptop on the balcony of the hotel and writing away for a month or two without distractions and the Bay of Bakar as my inspiration. It was a romantic notion but it seemed like the ideal setting for a writer’s retreat.

But…

Bakar has long been associated with heavy industry. The now-closed coke factory caused major pollution which the town is yet to fully recover from. When I asked some of the locals about swimming in the bay they all reacted with a similar look of horror on their faces. While not the worst destination in Croatia, Bakar is a town to be avoided.

Makarska

What’s not to love about Makarska? The clear water calmly washes over the long pebbly beach and the mountains make a magnificent backdrop.

It’s a beautiful spot and I’ve witnessed some of the most stunning sunsets in this part of Europe.

The only problem is, everyone else loves Makarska too. It’s a great spot if you don’t mind being elbow to elbow with other tourists as you sun yourself on the beach. Squeezing between heavy smoking Frenchies and loud Russians to claim a tiny piece of rocky beach for myself isn’t my idea of fun. There’s the option of a beach lounge but those pesky Germans always get up at some ungodly hour each morning to ‘save’ the best spots with their towels.

The hordes of tourists descending on the beach at once also results in the crystal clear water turning into something rather nasty. That’s not a problem if you don’t mind swimming with rubbish but I won’t be returning to Makarska.

Top 4 Destinations to Avoid in Croatia appeared first on European travel blog Rear View Mirror.

When I found out we were going to spend the evening riding around Rome on vintage Vespa’s I was giddy with excitement. Touring Rome on a warm spring evening, visiting the city’s famous sights with my arms wrapped around a handsome Italian man. The epitome of a romantic night out. I suppose it would have been more romantic if I’d had my hands wrapped around my husband but whatever…

Our lovely guide passionately explained the history of the ancient city at each stop we made. But honestly, I didn’t care, I just wanted to get back on the Vespa and feel the warm breeze on my face as we scootered around the city. You could not get the smile off my face as we weaved in and out of traffic over the cobblestoned streets.

Vespa Tour of Rome

Our group snaked our way around the ancient Roman city, stopping at the Roman Forum, Piazza Venezia, Circus Maximus, crossing the Tiber River before finishing at the Vatican.

I’m all for independent travel and almost never recommend visiting a city on a group tour but this Vespa tour of Rome is one I will never forget. It was the best tour I’ve ever taken in my life and I can’t recommend Dearoma Tours highly enough.

I’m a huge fan of vintage Vespa’s and vintage Fiat 500s for that matter. Even though I love my little Fiat 500, it’s no where near as adorable as a vintage Fiat 500 and I guarantee I will take a Fiat 500 tour of Rome next time I’m in the city. Seriously, take a Dearoma tour when you are in Rome. It’s a breathtaking way to visit the city.

I was so sad when our Vespa tour came to an end. It was so much fun and I desperately want to buy a vintage Vespa now! To end a wonderful night we we stopped by the majestic Trevi Fountain, another of Rome’s must see sights and my favourite fountain in the world.

Thanks to our wonderful Italian Vespa guides for showing us the best of Rome at night.

Touring Rome on a Vespa appeared first on European travel blog Rear View Mirror.

Hamburgers in Hamburg

Disclaimer: Not being much of a meat eater, I left the hamburger taste testing to my accomplice so any complaints should be directed at him. At Jim Block I had a chicken burger, which didn’t rate at all compared to the delicious burgers I had in Berlin and at Heimat Küche & Bar I had fish and chips which I’d definitely recommend if burgers aren’t your thing.

Bullerei

Arriving in Hamburg cold and hungry, we headed straight to the nearest restaurant. Bullerei is a very popular restaurant in Hamburg (which you need to reserve in advance) but we were there for the burger which you’ll find in their informal cafe. There is only one burger on the menu and just from a presentation perspective it didn’t look inviting at all. Even though it looked dry and was prepared sloppily it got the thumbs up taste wise which is all that matters really. Offering a burger without sides seems a little stingy but the place has a really nice atmosphere and the staff were friendly. Price: €10.

Jim Block

Jim Block is like an upmarket version of Mcdonald’s. It’s a fast food restaurant local to Hamburg and very popular for a quick bite to eat. It’s definitely better than your average fast food joint but if you’re only in Hamburg for a city break I wouldn’t waste a meal by eating at Jim Block. They do have a wide range of burgers including chicken and veggie burgers so it’s not too bad for a snack on the run. Price: €4+

Heimat Küche & Bar

I don’t often eat at hotel restaurants but the burger at Heimat recently made it onto a list of the best hamburgers in Hamburg so we decided to check it out. This was by far the best of the 3 hamburgers tried. It was juicy, flavourful and prepared with care. The chips were the best we had too. The beef used at the 25hours Hotel’s restaurant is sourced from local farms in northern Germany and butchered by a family-run butcher in Hamburg which adds to its appeal. Is it worth the hefty price tag? Apparently yes. Price: €15.

More Hamburgers

If we’d had more time we would have done a little more personal research into the best hamburgers in Hamburg but I’ve heard good things about the following restaurants.

• The Bird in Hamburg – This hamburger joint in St Pauli gets consistently great reviews as does their sister restaurant in Berlin. The napalm chicken wings look like a goer too. I regret not making a visit to The Bird a priority but I won’t make the same mistake next time.
• Meatery – For a more upmarket experience, this steakhouse has an excellent reputation and central location near Hamburg’s Town Hall.
• Old Macdonald – Great reviews on Foursquare but it’s a little out of the city centre.
• Kleine Pause – Well known burger joint in St Pauli. Worth trying if you’re staying in the area.

Where to Stay

In Hamburg I was hosted by Superbude Hotel St Pauli and recommend it as a place to stay. Superbude is walking distance to Bullerei, Kleine Pause and The Bird so it’s ideally located if you want to enjoy a hamburger or two in Hamburg.

Eating Hamburgers in Hamburg appeared first on European travel blog Rear View Mirror.

Spring has finally arrived in Europe and it’s currently rewarding us with gorgeous pink cherry blossoms, sweet-smelling wisteria and orange blossoms as well as beautiful spring flowering bulbs like tulips and hyacinths. It’s times like this I miss living in Paris and being able to visit my favourite French parks and gardens like the Jardin du Luxembourg.

Top 5 Beautiful Parks in Paris

I’ve never met a garden in Paris I didn’t like but here are my top 5 parks when it comes to spring flower displays.

Jardin du Luxembourg

We may as well start with the best. The central Jardin du Luxembourg has the largest and most beautiful mass display of tulips in Paris with some of the prettiest colours you’ll see anywhere. If you only have time to visit one park in Paris this should be it.

Parc de Bagatelle

Hidden away in the middle of Bois de Boulogne to the west of Paris, Parc de Bagatelle has always been one of my favourite parks. At this time of the year the tulips are flowering around the small Chateau de Bagatelle but mid to late May is the best time to go when the irises are at their prime. Originally built for Marie-Antoinette in 1777, the park also has the largest rose bed in Paris and some very friendly peacocks. This is one of the few parks in Paris that has a fee (€5.50) but it’s worth it to see the irises or the rose display in June/July.

Parc Monceau

Popular with the Paris bourgeoisie, Parc Monceau is not like the formal French gardens you see elsewhere. It’s more casual and free flowing and chock a block with pretty flower displays. Parc Monceau is the perfect spot to recover from the overwhelming crowds at the nearby Champs-Elysees and Arc de Triomphe.

Jardin des Serres d’Auteuil

My old neighbourhood park, Jardin des Serres d’Auteuil is a botanical garden with greenhouses which supply most of the parks in Paris. Plus they have a cool cactus garden! During spring there are a few cherry trees in bloom and loads of bright red tulips. While this park might be a little out of the way for most visitors to Paris, if you’re staying in the west of the city then it’s easy to get to from Porte d’Auteuil.

Jardin du Palais Royal

The Palais Royal garden is one of the most elegant gardens I’ve ever stepped into. The formal garden with its boxed hedges, rows of tightly clipped trees and the central fountain is like a little oasis in the centre of Paris. Thanks to Aussie in France for treating me to this view from her stunning apartment.

Other Notable Parks in Paris

• Jardin des Tuileries – One of the most famous parks in Paris, it’s a little crowded and dusty for my liking but not to be missed after a visit to the Louvre Museum.
• Jardin des Plantes – The main botanical garden in Paris, Jardin des Plantes also has a small zoo popular with families.
• Square Jean XXIII – Located just behind Notre Dame Cathedral, this is a great spot to take a break from the hectic sightseeing in Paris.
• Place des Vosges – In the heart of the fantastic Marais quarter, Place des Vosges doesn’t have many (any?) flowers but I mention it as it’s one of the most stunning squares in Paris.
• Champ de Mars – Get there very early in the morning before the Eiffel Tower crowds arrive.
• Parc Andre Citroen – More well know for its trees and shrubs (including a decent sized Australian section) than flowers but it’s worth visiting to go up the world’s biggest hot air balloon for views over Paris.
• Rodin Museum – Another of my favourite parks in Paris, you can wander around this perfectly manicured park while admiring August Rodin’s impressive sculptures.
• Parc des Buttes Chaumont – Not one of my top parks in Paris, probably because I always lived on the opposite side of the city, but this park is massively popular with the trendy Belleville crowd.
• Jardins du Chateau de Versailles – Just outside of Paris but definitely worth visiting, the free to visit Gardens of Versailles are remarkable.

Top 5 Beautiful Parks in Paris appeared first on European travel blog Rear View Mirror.

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A Day Trip to Rostock

Rostock is around two hours from Berlin, either by car or train, so it’s doable as a day trip but only just. If time is limited I’d say go for it and just see one or two things, otherwise take your time and make it into a relaxing weekend getaway.

Explore Rostock’s Old Town

From the very pretty Universitätsplatz to the main square at Neuer Markt, the city’s streets and squares are lined with colourful gabled houses typical of northern Germany. I love this kind of architecture and even though it was bitterly cold when I visited the cityscapes took my breath away and made the suffering all worthwhile. If you have the chance to visit during the Christmas or Easter markets there will be lots to keep you busy and plenty of mulled wine to keep you warm.

See the Gorillas at Rostock Zoo

The heat and humidity immediately hit me as I walked into the Darwineum at Rostock Zoo. I was hoping to get a glimpse of a gorilla or two but actually saw five or six very active gorillas. They were playing and feeding and seemed to be enjoying their steamy man-made habitat.

The Darwineum houses a number of other primates including my personal favourites, orangutans, plus this cute/creepy guy:

Seaside Warnemünde

You can’t visit Rostock without making a side trip to the Baltic Sea. Warnemünde is a charming coastal fishing village and popular beach town, even if temperatures don’t get far above 25C in the summer. I absolutely adored Warnemünde when I visited in March, no matter how cold it was, and I plan to go back in the warmer summer months.

Get Up Close and Personal with Edvard Munch

Norway’s most famous painter Edvard Munch lived in Warnemünde for a while, often painting naked on the beach, as one does. You can visit his former residence and the locations he painted as well as admire his self-portrait photos from that time.

Swim in the Baltic Sea

Air temperatures were around -10C and the water close to zero so no, I didn’t swim in the Baltic Sea. But I didn’t travel all the way to the Baltic to not at least take a quick dip so a few of my fingers made it into the icy cold water. Now I can honestly say I’ve been in the Baltic Sea.

Photo credit: K. Lass

Travel often introduces you to sights and experiences you never would have come across before and finding snow on the beach was quite an experience. I’ve never seen that before!

The beach at Warnemünde used to be a popular spot for nude bathing but since reunification with West Germany beach goers have become a little more conservative. Damn those West Germans! These days you’ll need to head quite a way down the coast if you want to swim in your birthday suit.

Warm Up with Some Grog

After almost losing a couple of fingers to frostbite, it was time to combat the cold with a local remedy. Grog. Rum, sugar and hot water. I’m not going to lie, at first it tastes like poison but once you get half way through it works its magic. You can get grog (known as hot rum toddy in other parts of the world) from a street stall for around €2 or from one of the seaside bars for a little more.

Getting to Warnemünde

Take the S-Bahn (S1 or S2) from Rostock’s main train station and get off at the last stop in Warnemünde. The train runs every 15 minutes or so and the fare is included with the Rostock Card. If you choose to drive, Warnemünde is only 20 minutes away from Rostock.

Continuing on to Copenhagen

If you want to extend your time in the Baltic region, you can take the ferry over to neighbouring Denmark. For €19 and two hours of your time you can find yourself on the Danish coast and from there Copenhagen is only a couple of hours away by train. Pick up the combined bus/ferry ticket to Denmark from the main train station in Rostock.

Where to Stay in Rostock

In Rostock I stayed at the PentaHotel courtesy of Rostock Tourism and Historic Germany. The hotel is located a few steps away from pretty Universitätsplatz and the shopping district. It’s ideal for a city break in Rostock or as a stopover on the way to Copenhagen. If you’re staying in Berlin and day tripping to Rostock, I’d recommend one of Berlin’s design hotels such as the Cosmo Hotel in Mitte.

Have you been to Rostock or Warnemünde? What did you think?

Berlin Day Trip: Rostock appeared first on European travel blog Rear View Mirror.

The snow melted and the clouds parted just in time for my photo walk of Muenster. Wandering around the streets of this Hanseatic city I got a glimpse into German life. Locals picking up fresh supplies at the farmers’ markets, riding their bikes to run errands and stopping in the afternoon for coffee and cake. It’s such a clichéd view of Germany, I know, but it definitely fits in this case.

For more information on Muenster, visit Historic Highlights of Germany, my generous hosts for this trip.

Muenster Thru a Mobile Lens appeared first on European travel blog Rear View Mirror.

It was hard to drive away from Zagreb, a colourful, dynamic city where much of the day is whiled away in sidewalk cafes. A city where I can envisage myself becoming a resident. But I had more pressing issues, a road trip through Bosnia and Herzegovina and a long awaited return to Mostar.

Road Trip: Bosnia and Herzegovina

I’m still wondering if my GPS didn’t fail me on this trip. The TomTom isn’t particularly useful in the lesser visited parts of the Balkans where coverage is either limited to a few main streets, totally inaccurate or doesn’t exist at all. The Bosnian border should only be an hour or so from Zagreb but it took us more than two hours to arrive. Although the standard of the road dropped with each kilometre closer to the border, there were no real problems with the road to explain our delay.

The border crossing was quick once I realised we didn’t have to wait behind the unmoving queue of trucks. Passports, car registration and insurance documents were all requested and after fielding a number of inane questions from a grumpy customs officer we crossed without incident. It was then like we had entered into another world.

Republika Srpska

Driving through the autonomous region of Republika Srpska felt like driving through a ghost town. Abandoned and burnt out buildings appeared around every turn. The Serb region didn’t fare well during or after the war and the rural region is clearly one of the poorest parts of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

The Serb flag was flying strong in the now peaceful countryside but I couldn’t help wondering if it will remain that way.

Banja Luka

Noticeably more prosperous than the countryside, Banja Luka is the growing capital of Republika Srpska. It played an important role during the Bosnian War with Serbs from Croatia and Bosnia taking refuge in the city and Croats and Bosniaks being held in the nearby Manjaca concentration camp. A consequence of the war is that there are now 15 women for every man in Banja Luka.

There is a lot of history in Banja Luka but on the surface you have tree-lined boulevards, a medieval fortress in the city centre and popular thermal springs. Regrettably we only did a drive-by at Banja Luka but I will definitely return to see more.

Sarajevo

Stepping off the tram in the heart of Old Town it was hard to believe I was in a city formerly occupied by the Austro-Hungarian empire. This part of Sarajevo well and truly retains its Ottoman style with a number of mosques, Turkish baths and shopping bazaars.

What makes Sarajevo unique is that you can spend hours exploring the Turkish influenced city and then head in another direction and find yourself surrounded by architecture more like what you’d find in Budapest. Keep going and you’ll be reminded of its communist past. Turn another corner and you’ll be face to face with a synagogue. No other city in Europe has such a harmonious mix of styles, cultures and religions.

History is inescapable in Sarajevo. The pretty hills which surround the city were home to 13,000 soldiers from the Army of Republika Srpska during the Siege of Sarajevo from 1992 to 1996. They managed to pick off more than 10,000 civilians during the siege, many of whom are buried in war cemeteries just up the hill from the city centre, most of them young men in their 20s.

The war history goes back much further than that with the assassination of Archduke of the Austro-Hungarian empire Franz Ferdinand at the Latin Bridge in 1914. This was one of the factors leading to the outbreak of World War I not long after.

Eating Out

Look hard enough and you’ll find almost every major cuisine in Sarajevo but why bother when you can find the cheap but very tasty local specialties cevapi and burek on every corner.

Where to Stay

We stayed at the very peaceful boutique Hotel Merona. It’s way out of the city centre but it’s such a wonderful, relaxing place I can’t recommend it highly enough. Huge rooms, comfy beds, a sauna and truly helpful staff. There is free parking at the door and if you don’t want to drive into the old town you can catch a tram that passes by every few minutes.

Mostar

Technically this was not my first time to Mostar. A couple of years ago I took a bus there only to discover on my arrival that the last bus back to Dubrovnik was leaving a half hour later. Peak season ended the day before and the bus schedule had changed. My options were limited. Spend the night in Mostar without any of my belongings and return to Dubrovnik past my hotel check-out time or take the bus straight back without even seeing the famous Old Bridge. I chose the latter and was bitterly disappointed.

This time was a different story. I had plenty of time to walk the historic stone laneways and to admire the bridge from every angle.

Unfortunately we didn’t get to see one of the famous bridge jumps. I’m not sure if it’s something they do every day or just every now and then but I didn’t see any signs of anyone looking to dive off the bridge into the bright green waters below.

What you can’t miss as you walk around the town is the destruction from the Bosnian War. Bullet holes everywhere. Burnt out homes. Buildings in disrepair. It’s a constant reminder of the violence and carnage that took place only 18 years ago with around 100,000 killed, the majority being Bosniaks.

This video shows fascinating footage from the war and the destruction of the Old Bridge in Mostar.

Much has changed since the war of course. It’s now a bustling city full of cafes, shops and tourists.

Mostar to Dubrovnik

Major roads around the country are lined with flags so can’t mistake which ethnic region you are in. You can see the Serb flag flying in Republika Srpska, in Sarajevo you mostly see the blue and yellow Bosnian flag and in the south the Croatian flag is everywhere. It’s in the southern region where you’ll come across some of the most striking scenery in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Dubrovnik is a three hour drive from Mostar but at the end of the long journey you’ll be rewarded with a view of one of the most photogenic towns on the Adriatic.

Driving in Bosnia and Herzegovina

We didn’t get off the beaten path at all on this road trip, we stuck to visiting the most popular cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina, although the country itself is off the beaten path when it comes to European travel. Our road trip looked like this:

Zagreb (Croatia) – Republika Srpska – Banja Luka – Sarajevo – Mostar – Dubrovnik (Croatia)

The roads connecting the main cities are generally in good condition although they can be narrow at times. The biggest issues when driving in Bosnia and Herzegovina are crazy drivers who don’t hesitate to overtake on blind corners and the lack of GPS coverage. Don’t head off-road at all as there are millions of unexploded landmines around the country, especially in the rural border regions. This is a fascinating country and driving is the easiest way to get around to experience its culture, history and natural beauty.

View Larger Map

Road Trip: Bosnia & Herzegovina appeared first on European travel blog Rear View Mirror.

If you can bear to leave Paris for the day but still want a typically French experience, Parc de Sceaux is a great spot for a classic picnic of baguette, cheese and wine. Although the park is a popular weekend destination for Parisians, it’s not widely known to visitors of the city. It’s worth a trip if you’ve already visited much of Paris and are looking for something different or if you want to see the stunning cherry blossoms in spring.

Designed by famous French landscape architect Andre Le Notre, the Parc de Sceaux is almost as impressive as his other famous gardens at Versailles, Fontainebleau and beautiful Chantilly. The park has that typical structured, symmetrical design French gardens are known for as well as grand canals, waterfalls and fountains.

Cherry Blossoms at Parc de Sceaux

If you are visiting Paris in April, a day trip to Parc de Sceaux will reward you with one of the most beautiful displays of cherry blossoms in the Paris region. Fluffy pink blossoms as far as the eye can see. Not to be missed if you’re a fan of spring flowering trees.

Photo credit: hien_it

Chateau de Sceaux

The 19th century Chateau de Sceaux replaces a much older castle and now houses the Museum of Ile de France. I haven’t visited the museum and if it’s a sunny day I don’t see why you would bother. Enjoy the beautiful gardens instead.

Photo credit: BurgTender

This video gives a better idea of what the castle and gardens are like.

Day Trip to Parc de Sceaux

Parc de Sceaux is a 30 minute drive south of Paris in the suburb of Antony or you can take the RER B to Bourg-la-Reine, Sceaux ou Parc de Sceaux stations. April is cherry blossom season and one of the best times to visit. Visit the official park site for information on opening times. Entry to the museum is €3 except for the 1st Sunday of the month when entry is free (as are all public museums in France). The park also has its own iPhone app which is handy if you’re planning a visit.

Photo credit: Domaine de Sceaux

Paris Day Trip: Parc de Sceaux appeared first on European travel blog Rear View Mirror.

I don’t know what it is about Mont Saint Michel that captivates me. It’s such a unique destination. I’ve never been anywhere like it. The tiny tidal island in Normandy in northern France is known for its dominating abbey, winding medieval streets, frothy omelettes and delicious salt marsh lamb. It’s totally mesmerising.

Captivating Mont Saint Michel appeared first on European travel blog Rear View Mirror.