Top 100 2010

Top 100 – 2009

Top 100 – 2008

Whites under $20
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The following wines, which were selected from the 219 that were submitted, come from nine regions spread across New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia and Western Australia, and encompass seven varieties. Five sauvignon blancs or sauvignon semillons and five chardonnays were followed by four rieslings and three semillons, pinot grigio, marsanne and verdelho completing the register.

Long Flat Bin Ends Chardonnay 2008
90 points, $10.99, S, 13% alc
The throwaway name borders on Australian black humour, but may be close to the truth, for an Adelaide Hills chardonnay should cost far more. Moreover, it has very good fruit, focus and intensity on the long, sustained white peach palate, uncomplicated by any contact with oak.
From Adelaide Hills, SA
Drink now with pan-seared scallops
www.cheviotbridge.com.au

Tyrrell’s Old Winery Verdelho 2008
90 points, $12, S, 12.5% alc
Australia is the only country that makes table wine of any consequence from verdelho, other than perhaps Portugal (in small quantities). Pale straw-green, it has neatly poised tropical fruit with lemon and straw notes, quite fleshy on the entry, then tightens up with lemony fruit on the crisp finish.
From Hunter Valley, NSW
Drink now with calamari
www.tyrrells.com.au

Yalumba Y Series Pinot Grigio 2008
90 points, $12.95, S, 12.5% alc
Like painting a picture with white paint (NZ winemaker), or losing a blind tasting against Evian (Robert Joseph, UK wine journalist) are my usual reference points for pinot grigio. However, this wine has personality and flavours of pear and citrus, with cleansing minerality on the finish.
From SA
Drink now with antipasto
www.yalumba.com

Tahbilk Marsanne 2008
91 points, $14.95, S, 12.5% alc
Tahbilk’s Marsanne transforms itself like Hunter semillon, transformation now guaranteed by the screwcap. The shy bouquet has honeysuckle and apple in evidence, the innate generosity of the palate still tightly wound around a spine of minerality. Trust me, this wine will develop superbly, gaining richness without losing its varietal identity.
From Nagambie Lakes, Vic
Drink now with hard cheese
www.tahbilk.com.au

Bellarmine Chardonnay 2007
94 points, $15, S, 14% alc
Highly intelligent winemaking limited the barrel maturation to only four months in new French oak so as not to overwhelm the fruit. Still as fresh as a daisy, it has the elegance that is the mark of all Bellarmine wines, the nectarine fruit driving the palate, oak in the back seat.
From Pemberton, WA
Drink now-2012 with sand crab
www.bellarmine.com.au

Alkoomi White Label Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2008
92 points, $15.89, S, 12.5% alc
Estate-grown, the grapes are picked at varying levels of maturity to add complexity to a wine that sees no oak and is early bottled. As befits a wine with a preponderance of semillon, grassy/lemony characters drive the bouquet and palate, which has considerable generosity and length.
From Frankland River, WA
Drink now-2010 with sashimi
www.alkoomiwines.com.au

Devil’s Lair Fifth Leg Chardonnay 2007
92 points, $15.99, S, 13.5% alc
This is the second vintage of this wine, which shows that unoaked chardonnay does not have to be boring, and it takes full advantage of readily available high-quality grapes. Bright, light straw-green, it is fresh, light-bodied but with quite intense melon and stone fruit aromas, and a convincing finish.
From WA
Drink now with gravlax
www.devils-lair.com

Larry Cherubino Ad Hoc Straw Man Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2008
93 points, $16.90, S, 12.5% alc
A blend of 71% sauvignon blanc and 29% semillon, 10% of which was fermented in new French oak, and made using several different yeasts. There are highly fragrant passionfruit and grass aromas on the bouquet that are mirrored on the zippy, zesty palate, and reverberate on the aftertaste.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink now with mussells
www.larrycherubino.com

Larry Cherubino Ad Hoc Hen and Chicken Chardonnay 2007
92 points, $16.90, S, 13% alc
Hand-picked, whole bunch-pressed, fermented with wild yeasts, 100% malolactic fermentation and 12 months in French oak shine through the wine, with nutty aromas framing the bright grapefruit flavours. It has good depth and weight, and touches of spice and toast from the oak come through on the finish.
From Pemberton, WA
Drink now-2012 with seafood risotto
www.larrycherubino.com

Pewsey Vale Riesling 2008
94 points, $17.95, S, 12.5% alc
One of the many lovely rieslings from this vintage, ripened in the cool January and February, and picked before the March heat. Strong green tinges foretell a powerful, complex bouquet leading into a palate bursting with regional lime juice fruit; has great vibrancy, thrust and length.
From Eden Valley, SA
Drink now-2015 with gazpacho
www.pewseyvale.com

McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Cellar Release Semillon 2003
95 points, $17.99, C, 11.5% alc
Demonstrates the amazing changes to a wine bottled within three months of vintage with a water white colour and little other than crisp acidity flavour. After five years, it is developing superbly, though slowly, still vibrant and lemony, with toast and honey notes starting to appear. Gold medal National Wine Show 2007.
From Hunter Valley, NSW
Drink now-2013 with almond-crusted trout fillets
www.mountpleasantwines.com.au

Yalumba Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2007
91 points, $18.95, S, 13.5% alc
Yalumba chief winemaker, Louisa Rose, has spent much time in research into and practical use of wild (or indigenous) yeasts in white winemaking. This is a vibrant wine that shows real depth and weight, minerally complexity and fine citrus fruit yielding to notes of French oak on the finish.
From Eden Valley, SA
Drink now-2011 with smoked salmon
www.yalumba.com

Riposte The Foil Sauvignon Blanc 2008
94 points, $19, S, 13% alc
Riposte is the cleverly named vinous reincarnation of veteran Adelaide Hills winemaker Tim Knappstein, who has produced two outstanding sauvignon blancs in succession. A spotlessly clean bouquet leads into a palate with a sunburst of tropical fruits, passionfruit and gooseberry, tied together by good acidity on the long finish.
From Adelaide Hills, SA
Drink now with sugar-cured tuna
Tel (08) 8389 8149

Peter Lehmann Riesling 2008
95 points, $19.50, S, 11% alc
Peter Lehmann’s wild ride through life has paralleled that of riesling, and his endurance is akin to that of riesling. This absurdly lovely wine has a fragrant, lime-accented bouquet, the palate featuring excellent mouthfeel and length; the fruit runs in an unbroken line through to the finish and aftertaste.
From Eden Valley, SA
Drink now-2018 with grilled King George whiting
www.peterlehmannwines.com

Fonty’s Pool Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2008
94 points, $19.80 S, 12% alc
Pemberton enjoyed very good growing season conditions right through to harvest, and Fonty’s Pool’s 110 ha of vineyards allowed it to choose the best for its wines. Bright, floral aromas lead into a very intense palate, with a strong citrus core thrusting through to the lingering finish, which has remarkable purity.
From Pemberton, WA
Drink now with cold seafood
www.fontyspoolwines.com.au

Heggies Riesling 2008
95 points, $19.95, S, 11.5% alc
This is one of the great Eden Valley single vineyards, sitting at an elevation of 500 metres, the soil bony and sparse. Light straw-green, its intense, voluminous citrus blossom aromas flow into a vibrant, lively palate with citrus/lime fruit offset and lengthened by minerally acidity.
From Eden Valley, SA
Drink now-2018 with summer salads
www.heggiesvineyard.com

West Cape Howe Sauvignon Blanc 2008
94 points, $19.95, S, 12% alc
The grapes come from four southern regions, and 3% each of semillon and riesling were included in the wine, which has fresh citrus and passionfruit aromas, then a very lively, long and intense palate with a mix of citrus, herb and gooseberry flavours; a clean, crisp finish.
From WA
Drink now-2010 with calamari
www.westcapehowewines.com.au

Audrey Wilkinson Vineyard Semillon 2008
94 points, $19.99, S, 11.5% alc
Named after its nineteenth century founder (a male Audrey), this hillside property was replanted over a century later in the 1970s. It has plenty to say on the bouquet with lemon, spice and grass notes, which come through on the long palate, given additional weight by the barest hint of sweetness balanced by acidity.
From Hunter Valley, NSW
Drink now-2105 with asparagus terrine
www.audreywilkinson.com.au

O’Leary Walker Polish Hill River Riesling 2008
95 points, $20, S, 12% alc
The Polish Hill River to the west of Clare Valley proper is cooler and has slaty soils, resulting in later ripening. Autosuggestion or not, it has apple, lime and slate flavours on the beautifully structured and focused palate, these flavours flowing on evenly from the bouquet, with impressive line and length.
From Clare Valley, SA
Drink now-2018 with stuffed red capsicum
www.olearywalkerwines.com

Brokenwood Semillon 2008
94 points, $20, S, 10% alc
A perennial favourite with a proud 25-year history under the direction of CEO Iain Riggs; handpicked, cool-fermented and bottled early. It has crisp, fresh, zesty aromas and flavours, gaining velocity on the back-palate and finish, with notes of lemon rind and mineral on the finish and lingering aftertaste.
From Hunter Valley, NSW
Drink now-2013 with Chinese-style baked fish
www.brokenwood.com.au

Reds under $20
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It is no accident that the 2006 reds mainly come from South Australia (a great vintage there), the ’07s from Western Australia and Victoria, which were kinder to red wines than South Australia this time around.

Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet 2006
90 points, $11.99, S, 13.5% alc
Made in an unbroken line since 1976 by a large maker, familiarity can easily breed contempt, but the very fact of its history, the quality of the vintage and the aggressive pricing demanded its selection; savoury/spicy nuances on the bouquet give way to blackberry fruit, fine tannins and an echo of oak on the palate.
From Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Coonawarra, SA
Drink now-2014 with designer meat pie
www.penfolds.com.au

De Bortoli Deen De Bortoli Vat 8 Shiraz 2006
90 points, $12.99, S, 14% alc
This was a surprise gold medal winner at the Sydney Wine Show 2008, and has flourished over the intervening six months. It has abundant sweet plum and blackberry fruit on both bouquet and palate, thanks to pre-fermentation maceration, and has spicy vanillin oak now integrated into the wine.
From Riverina, NSW and Vic
Drink now with lasagne
www.debortoli.com.au

De Bortoli Windy Peak Pinot Noir 2008
92 points, $13, S, 13% alc
Made at the Yarra Valley winery, using the techniques employed for top end pinots, making its price all the more remarkable. Brilliantly clear colour and fragrant cherry aromas point to the fresh and bright cherry and plum varietal fruit on the light- to medium-bodied palate. Simple but delicious.
From Vic (cool climate regions)
Drink now with tortellini
www.debortoli.com.au

Trentham Estate La Famiglia Sangiovese Rose 2008
91 points, $14, S, 13.5% alc
There are those who would say Australian sangiovese and nebbiolo are best suited to rose, but the reverse may also be true. Bright salmon-pink; while light on its feet, it has above average intensity to its spicy/cherry/plummy fruit flavours, and the finish is crisp and refreshingly dry.
From Murray Darling, NSW
Drink now with salt and pepper squid
www.trenthamestate.com.au

Trentham Estate Pinot Noir 2007
91 points, $14, S, 13.5% alc
There seems to be no style that owner/winemaker Tony Murphy is unable to master. Bright and clear, it has very pure and precise varietal fruit on both bouquet and palate; while light-bodied, it has enticing cherry and strawberry flavours, oak and tannins incidental to the main play.
From Murray Darling, NSW
Drink now-2010 with Peking duck
www.trenthamestate.com.au

Seppelt Victoria Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
93 points, $14.99, S, 14% alc
From the Grampians, this wine has developed beautifully since first tasted in November 2007, and is ridiculously underpriced. Perfectly ripened blackcurrant fruit, ripe but fine tannins, and well-balanced oak all come together to provide supple mouthfeel to a delicious wine.
From Grampians, Vic
Drink now-2014 with Greek-style lamb
www.seppeltwines.com.au

Willow Bridge Estate Shiraz 2007
93 points, $15.50, S, 13% alc
Estate-grown in Willow Bridge’s Fergusson Valley vineyards, the wine spends 10 months in French oak of various ages. Bright purple, juicy red cherry and plum fruits ripple through the medium-bodied palate, enhanced by spicy French oak, and supported by fine tannins on a long finish.
From Geographe, WA
Drink now-2015 with grilled porterhouse
www.willowbridge.com.au

Possums Vineyard Willunga Shiraz 2006
95 points, $15.99, S, 14.5% alc
Dr John Possingham was a distinguished research scientist, and acknowledges the science-based management of the estate vineyards. This has a lovely, harmonious mix of perfectly ripened red and black fruits; fine, soft tannins with supporting oak run through a very long finish. Gold medal Adelaide Wine Show 2007.
From McLaren Vale, SA
Drink now-2016 with kangaroo fillet
www.possumswines.com.au

West Cape Howe Shiraz 2007
93 points, $16, S, 14% alc
The 2007 vintage was far kinder to south Western Australia than South Australia, warm but not hot, and with no rain during harvest. Bright crimson-purple, enticing aromas of spicy black fruits and toasty French oak lead into a medium-bodied palate with highly focused red and black cherry fruit; superfine tannins round off the finish.
From Denmark, WA
Drink now-2016 with beef cheek
www.westcapehowewines.com.au

Smith & Hooper Cabernet Merlot 2006
93 points, $17.95, C, 14% alc
A stand-alone brand of S Smith & Sons (Yalumba), taking its name from adjacent blocks previously owned by the Smith and Hooper families. The wine has clearly defined cabernet characters ranging through red berry to darker fruit emanating from a core of fleshy, generous fruit, framed by fine-grained tannins on the finish.
From Wrattonbully, SA
Drink now-2016 with backstrap of lamb
www.yalumba.com

Shadowfax Shiraz 2007
94 points, $18, S, 13.5% alc
The wine is made from grapes grown on three estate vineyards at Werribee, Tallarook and Heathcote, and spends 14 months in French oak. Brightly coloured; perfumed spicy red and black fruit aromas lead into an intensely flavoured palate with spicy red fruits to the fore, French oak in the background.
From Vic
Drink now-2014 with shepherd’s pie
www.shadowfax.com.au

Sandalford Rose 2008
93 points, $18.95, S, 13% alc
Cabernet sauvignon was machine harvested at night, crushed and the juice was drained off after 24 hours cold-soak. Vivid crimson-purple; very appealing raspberry and cherry fruit runs through the long, well-balanced palate, which has a touch of sweetness on the finish neatly balanced by acidity.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink now with charcuterie meats
www.sandalford.com

Hoddles Creek Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
93 points, $18.99, S, 13% alc
Winemaker Franco D’Anna worked in the family liquor store before gaining a Bachelor of Commerce degree and a viticulture degree from Charles Sturt University. Vibrantly coloured, it has a layered, complex bouquet, then a silky entry to the mouth before a savoury backbone tightens the palate; refreshing acidity to close.
From Yarra Valley, Vic
Drink 2010-2016 with braised lamb shanks
www.hoddlescreekestate.com.au

Wise Shiraz 2007
95 points, $19, S, 14.5% alc
Owner Ron Wise has 40 ha of owned or leased vineyards across three regions in the south of Western Australia and a skilled winemaking team. Densely coloured, intense, spicy blackberry fruit aromas lead into a striking full-bodied palate, with deep fruit and licorice flavours supported by ripe tannins.
From Margaret River/Frankland River, WA
Drink 2012-2022 with marinated venison

Sevenhill Cellars Inigo Shiraz 2006
94 points, $19, S, 15% alc
The historic Sevenhill Cellars of the Jesuitical Manresa Society also has 100-year-old shiraz vines from which this wine was made. It is spectacularly rich and dense, with multiple layers of blackberry, licorice and dark chocolate flavours supported by ripe tannins; it will particularly appeal to those who enjoy full-bodied reds.
From Clare Valley, SA
Drink now-2021 with barbecued rump steak
www.sevenhillcellars.com.au

Oakridge Over the Shoulder Shiraz Viognier 2007
93 points, $19, S, 13.5% alc
This is the second label of Oakridge, effectively its third level behind the 864 brand and estate varietals. Vibrant crimson-purple colour accurately foretells the fresh, vibrant red fruit aromas and flavours; fine tannins on the finish give the wine the structure sometimes lacking with this blend.
From Yarra Valley, Vic
Drink now with stir-fried Chinese beef
www.oakridgeestate.com.au

Woodlands Cabernet Merlot 2007
92 points, $19, S, 13.5% alc
An estate-grown blend of 63% cabernet sauvignon, 29% merlot and 8% malbec, and a model of consistency in recent years. A bright, youthful colour leads into complex black olive and cassis aromas; savoury, deep and full of red fruits on the long, fine and focused back-palate and finish.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink now-2014 with braised lamb
www.woodlandswines.com

Balnaves of Coonawarra The Blend 2006
93 points, $19, S, 14.5% alc
The principal components are cabernet sauvignon (59%), and merlot (39%), which spent 18 months in one-third new tight-grained French oak. Vibrantly coloured, it has great concentration, and dark blackcurrant and blueberry fruit go hand in hand with lovely cedary complexity; bright, fine and focused, with a real touch of class.
From Coonawarra, SA
Drink now-2014 with beef shashlik
www.balnaves.com.au

Tyrrell’s Rufus Stone Shiraz 2006
95 points, $19.50, S, 14.8% alc
Tyrrell’s secured water by a major pipeline when it acquired its land in Heathcote, which has paid big dividends in the ensuing drought years. Striking purple-red, this elegant, medium-bodied wine has ravishing black cherry and spice fruit, perfectly matched by seamless tannins and oak. Gold medal, National Wine Show 2007.
From Heathcote, Vic
Drink now-2015 with osso bucco
www.tyrrells.com.au

d’Arenberg The Custodian Grenache 2006
93 points, $19.95, S, 14.5% alc
The Osborne family has vast experience in making grenache from old McLaren Vale vines, with foot-treading and basket-pressing techniques. The wine has fragrant red berry aromas, and the structure and intensity lacking in many Barossa grenaches, offering red and black berry fruits with spice and chocolate nuances.
From McLaren Vale, SA
Drink now-2013 with lamb kidneys
www.darenberg.com.au

Whites over $20
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The best white wines such as riesling, semillon, sauvignon blanc and pinot gris, which do not involve the use of oak, are far cheaper to make than chardonnay of equivalent quality. Hence the pattern of price distribution in this group, the principal exception being the former wines held by their producers for five years or so prior to sale.

Capercaillie Creel Semillon 2008
95 points, $21, S, 10% alc
The grapes come from the estate’s Majors Lane Vineyard at Lovedale, one of the finest subregions for semillon, and from a cool and wet vintage (which suits the variety more than hot and dry). It has clean, fragrant, herb, lanolin and grass aromas, citrus appearing alongside the other components on the long palate.
From Hunter Valley, NSW
Drink now-2018 with grilled eggplant and zucchini
www.capercailliewine.com.au

Stella Bella Sauvignon Blanc 2008
95 points, $21, S, 13% alc
The winemaking team, led by Janice McDonald, know exactly how to extract the best from high-quality sauvignon grapes. It has a fragrant and flowery bouquet, a lissom palate offering passionfruit, kiwi fruit and redcurrant flavours; has vibrancy and thrust, with a long, clean finish
From Margaret River, WA
Drink now with poached scallops
www.stellabella.com.au

Ninth Island Pinot Grigio 2008
94 points, $21.50, S, 13.5% alc
This second label of Pipers Brook Vineyard has an impressive track record, with moderately priced pinot noirs of particular appeal. Here is a good pinot gris, with a faint blush tint, then scented rose petal, spice and tropical aromas leading into a long palate, sustained by a mineral and citrus backbone.
From northern Tasmania
Drink now with seafood antipasto
www.pipersbrook.com

Ashbrook Estate Margaret River Verdelho 2008
95 points, $22, S, 14% alc
Given the similar quality of the classic varietals from Ashbrook Estate, the choice of the Verdelho may seem quixotic, but this demanded selection. An aromatic tropical/banana bouquet leads to a palate that opens as a reflection of the bouquet, before imparting great thrust to the mouthfeel with a squeeze of lemon.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink now-2013 with pasta carbonara

Wirra Wirra Hiding Champion Sauvignon Blanc 2008
95 points, $22, S, 12% alc
The late founder of Wirra Wirra, Greg Trott, was prone to disappear when decisions, major or minor, had to be made, hence the name. Early picking of the grapes has paid big dividends, with a chorus of juicy flavours running from apple to tropical, the palate vibrant, the finish fresh.
From Adelaide Hills, SA
Drink now-2009 with herb-crusted snapper
www.wirrawirra.com

Lenton Brae Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2008
95 points, $23, S, 13% alc
With 60% Semillon, 40% sauvignon blanc and 8% of the semillon barrel fermented, this is typical of the multi-award style of Lenton Brae. It has a pungent, aromatic bouquet with grassy, herbal semillon to the fore, an attack carried on by the long and precisely focused palate with gentle tropical fruits buttressed by lemony acidity.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink now-2010 with salmon terrine
www.lentonbrae.com

Voyager Estate Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2008
95 points, $24, S, 12.9% alc
Voyager Estate’s vineyards are in a particularly favoured part of Margaret River; add skilled winemaking and the outcome is consistently excellent wines. This has fragrant aromas and juicy, vibrant flavours ranging across citrus, gooseberry and passionfruit; the palate is long and even, the finish enticing another mouthful.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink now-2011 with grilled scampi
www.voyagerestate.com.au

Howard Park Sauvignon Blanc 2008
95 points, $25, S, 12.5% alc
A wine that shows the synergy gained by regional blending, each parcel contributing its own signature. It is vibrant from start to finish, with a mix of herbal, citrus and mineral aromas and flavours, the excellent mouthfeel aided by the texture enhanced by a small barrel ferment component.
From Margaret River/Pemberton, WA
Drink now-2010 with lemon-marinated fish
www.howardparkwines.com.au

Larry Cherubino The Yard Whispering Hill Riesling 2008
96 points, $25, S, 12.1% alc
The best of an outstanding trio of rieslings from Cherubino, fermented with indigenous yeasts capable of dealing with an awesomely low pH of 2.97. Floral lime blossom aromas lead into a superb palate that has exceptional thrust and length; lime and passionfruit progressively gain intensity through to the finish and aftertaste.
From Mount Barker, WA
Drink now-2018 with mild Thai dishes
www.larrycherubino.com

Houghton Wisdom Chardonnay 2007
95 points, $28.50, S, 13.5% alc
Just when the Sydney Wine Show decided it had to create special trophies for constantly overlooked chardonnay, this won the 2008 Bert Bear Trophy for Best Young White Wine of Show. Glorious green-yellow colour; intense line and length, with cool-grown grapefruit and nectarine flavours; fine acidity, oak a support role.
From Pemberton, WA
Drink now-2015 with mud crab
www.houghton-wines.com.au

McHenry Hohnen Vintners Rocky Road Chardonnay 2007
96 points, $34.99, S, 14% alc
The Rocky Road vineyard is in the cooler southern part of Margaret River, and the fruit is given full expression by fermentation in old French oak barrels, part with cultured yeast, part with wild yeast. The result is delicious white peach and grapefruit flavours in classic Margaret River style, and an intense, lingering finish.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink now-2015 with Margaret River abalone
www.mchv.com.au

Grosset Springvale Watervale Riesling 2008
96 points, $36, S, 13% alc
The comparison between Grosset Polish Hill and Springvale (vineyard) Watervale is endlessly fascinating, as is the lesser price of the Springvale. This year it has a more effusive bouquet than the Polish Hill; the expressive lime juice fruit flavours also make this wine ready to go now, but without compromising its longevity.
From Clare Valley, SA
Drink now-2018 with blue swimmer crab
www.grosset.com.au

Thompson Estate Chardonnay 2007
95 points, $38, S, 14.5% alc
One of a number of very good current releases from Thompson Estate, dealing with the challenges and opportunities of a warm, early vintage. It is beautifully crafted, with pure grapefruit and nectarine on the bouquet; gently spiced with very polished oak and lovely grip, weight and depth to the powerful yet fine palate.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink now-2014 with grilled spatchcock
www.thompsonestate.com

Heggies Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay 2006
96 points, $39.95, S, 13.5% alc
This wine comes from a single special block of the four French clones imported in the 1990s that are superior to all other clones. A beautiful wine that exhibits great elegance and amazing fruit definition; pure, focused, fine and lively, with many layers that unfold right across the palate; incredibly well made, with an underlying touch of French funk.
From Eden Valley, SA
Drink now-2014 with milk-fed veal
www.heggiesvineyard.com

Peter Lehmann Wigan Riesling 2003
96 points, $40, S, 11% alc
It is, quite frankly, great to see Andrew Wigan, long-term chief winemaker at Peter Lehmann and godfather of all the great rieslings, being recognised. Gleaming green-gold, this wine is stacked to the rafters with luscious lime juice aromas and flavours, augmented by touches of honey on the mid-palate; has tremendous length.
From Eden Valley, SA
Drink now-2013 with a sunlit morning
www.peterlehmannwines.com

Shaw & Smith M3 Chardonnay 2007
96 points, $40, S, 13% alc
A worthy successor to the great 2006, coming from the same M3 vineyard and using the same winemaking techniques; beautifully crafted, with great depth and power; incredibly rich for a mere 13% alcohol, with lashings of fine French oak and stone fruits; the depth and power are offset by a complex mineral core and lively acidity.
From Adelaide Hills, SA
Drink now-2014 with teriyaki chicken
www.shawandsmith.com

Brokenwood ILR Reserve Semillon 2003
96 points, $45, S, 11% alc
This was a dry, hot vintage that produced great shiraz and challenged semillon, but you would never guess that from this wine, praise be the screwcap. Pale green, it has extreme finesse, magically combining freshness and delicacy with clear varietal expression from honey and toast through to bright citrus, mineral and grass notes.
From Hunter Valley, NSW
Drink now-2015 with freshly shucked oysters
www.brokenwood.com.au

Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon 2002
96 points, $45, C, 10% alc
Nine gold medals stretching from 2002 to ’07 demonstrate that this wine has been outstanding through its life so far. The colour is still pale and bright, and it has the feminine delicacy of all young(ish) Hunter semillons, yet possesses layer upon layer of a seamless mix of lemon, honey and acidity, toasty notes yet to come.
From Hunter Valley, NSW
Drink now-2015 with pan-fried barramundi
www.tyrrells.com.au

Yalumba The Virgilius Viognier 2007
95 points, $49.95, S, 14.5% alc
Chief winemaker Louisa Rose believes this to be one of the best Virgilius wines yet. It has high-toned blossom aromas; the palate is mouthfilling and unctuous without being phenolic or oily; apricot and almond flavours course through the length of a long palate, given texture from fermentation in older French oak.
From Eden Valley, SA
Drink now-2012 with quiche Lorraine
www.yalumba.com

Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2005
97 points, $96, S, 14.5% alc
This is the most purebred and aristocratic of all Australian chardonnays. It has awesome power, grace, depth and finesse; pure grapefruit, nectarine and peach flesh aromas are framed by complex, toasty, grilled nuts; the palate is amazingly concentrated, yet portrays a lightness that is completely beguiling and incredibly long.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink now-2020 with marron
www.leeuwinestate.com.au

Reds over $20
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The 2006 vintage is the lead player, but there are wines from every other vintage from ’03 to ’07 inclusive. In a reprise of last year, I could have chosen at least another 50 wines of near-identical style and quality, no more so than with the shiraz and shiraz viognier groups.

O’Leary Walker Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
95 points, $22.50, S, 14.5% alc
Low yielding vines in the very different Armagh and Polish Hill River subregions are the cornerstone, restrained winemaking inputs the icing on the cake. Rich, juicy blackcurrant fruit aromas are repeated on the medium-bodied palate, perfectly supported by ripe tannins, quality French oak completing the picture.
From Clare Valley, SA
Drink 2011-2021 with patience
www.olearywalkerwines.com

Henty Estate Shiraz 2006
96 points, $24, S, 14% alc
Hand-picking, hand-plunging and open-fermentation, basket pressing and French oak (new and used) maturation are time-honoured techniques used here. Intensely coloured, this utterly delicious medium-bodied wine is packed with perfectly ripe, spicy black cherry fruit, the tannins and French oak seamlessly integrated and balanced.
From Henty, Vic
Drink now-2020 with beef spare ribs
www.henty-estate.com.au

Bream Creek Pinot Noir 2006
95 points, $28, S, 13.5% alc
Vigneron/owner Fred Peacock is a viticultural legend in his own lifetime, this wine and the great 2005 Reserve proof of his skills. Deeply coloured, it has complex game and spice overtones to dark plum fruit; great flavour profile and length to a wine cruising along serenely as it approaches its third birthday.
From Southern Tasmania
Drink now-2013 with fresh venison

De Bortoli Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
95 points, $35, S, 13% alc
Elegance and harmony are the markers of all the De Bortoli wines. It was a toss up between this, the Pinot Noir and the Syrah, all equally good and all estate-grown. Bright crimson-purple; its seductively fragrant aromas lead into a bell-clear varietal palate with supple, silky mouthfeel and a long, harmonious finish.
From Yarra Valley, Vic
Drink 2010-2020 with braised beef and rosemary
www.debortoli.com.au

The Story Westgate Vineyard Shiraz 2006
96 points, $37.95, S, 14% alc
Owner/winemaker Rory Lane is a story in himself, although the name refers to the story of the vintage (and this single vineyard wine). First tasted in January, and again in August, this beautiful wine is poetry in motion, its palate with perpetual movement as the lively, spicy flavours wash back and forth, the elegant finish and aftertaste sheer perfection.
From Grampians, Vic
Drink 2010-2021 with stir-fried Szechwan beef
www.thestory.com.au

Smith & Hooper Reserve Merlot 2006
95 points, $39.95, C, 13% alc
High-quality merlots from Australia are rarer than hen’s teeth, so don’t look this one in the mouth. It is a distillation of the best grapes, then a selection of the best (French) barrels. Brightly fruited and clearly defined, its mouthwatering acidity provides a counterpoint to the vibrant red fruits, then a dry, slightly savoury, finish.
From Wrattonbully, SA
Drink now-2016 with Italian-style calf’s liver
www.yalumba.com

Shaw & Smith Shiraz 2006
97 points, $40, S, 14% alc
For some arcane reason, this missed the tasting net for the Australian Wine Companion 2009, but it has made up for lost time starring in several line-ups since. Brilliant crimson, it has voluminous plum, black cherry and spice aromas, replayed on the very intense and focused palate, which has glorious length and line.
From Adelaide Hills, SA
Drink now-2015 with veal chops
www.shawandsmith.com

Spinifex Indigene 2006
95 points, $44, C, 14.8% alc
A blend of 69% shiraz and 31% mataro. It has vivid colour and floods the mouth with flavour the moment it enters, yet the flavours are not extravagant, and certainly not at all jammy; instead there is tobacco, spice and a touch of bitter chocolate to accompany the red and blackberry fruits and velvety tannins; terrific poise.
From Eden & Barossa Valleys, SA
Drink now-2017 with jugged hare
www.spinifexwines.com.au

John Duval Entity Shiraz 2006
96 points, $47, S, 14.5% alc
This is the second label shiraz made by former Penfolds Grange winemaker John Duval, at half the price of the Eligo. Saturated crimson-purple; it has achieved the density to guarantee a 30-year life without the least hint of overripe fruit or alcohol heat; perfect balance and integration of fruit, oak and tannins; the work of a master.
From Barossa Valley, SA
Drink 2011-2031 with braised ox tail
www.johnduvalwines.com

Paringa Estate ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir 2007
96 points, $60, S, 14.5% alc
Will owner/winemaker Lindsay McCall every make anything less than great pinot noir? Most unlikely. As ever, good depth and hue to an altogether serious pinot; magisterial depth to both the dark plum flavour and structure and the commensurate length.
From Mornington Peninsula, Vic
Drink now-2015 with duck breast
www.paringaestate.com.au

Voyager Estate Cabernet Merlot 2004
96 points, $60, S, 14.2% alc
A blend of 81% cabernet sauvignon, 14% merlot and 5% petit verdot, it spends 24 months in French oak, half new. Deeply coloured, it has a powerful bouquet and even more powerful palate; layers of blackcurrant and cassis are seamlessly interwoven with spicy oak, the tannins strong but perfectly balanced.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink now-2024 with butterflied leg of lamb
www.voyagerestate.com.au

Majella The Malleea 2005
96 points, $66, C, 15% alc
One of the foremost cabernet shiraz blends in Australia, the cabernet component 55% and shiraz 45%. Bright colour and hue; this is a truly delectable wine with thrust and vitality to the range of red and black fruits on both bouquet and palate; the two varieties and the oak are seamlessly welded together.
From Coonawarra, SA
Drink 2010-2020 with rare roast beef
www.majellawines.com.au

Bass Phillip Estate Pinot Noir 2007
96 points, $70, D, 12.8% alc
The estate vines are biodynamically grown and the wine is not filtered, all politically correct. The colour is slightly diffuse, but the hue is good. It is an extremely complex wine from start to finish with excellent mouthfeel and great length to the mix of wild strawberries, spice and plum (and hints of stem and smoke); lingering aftertaste.
From Gippsland, Vic
Drink now-2017 with Peking duck

Brand’s Laira Coonawarra The Patron 2004
96 points, $74.99, S, 15% alc
The National Wine Show Cabernet Sauvignon Trophy is the most telling of all such awards, its five other trophies not surprising. It has great colour, the bouquet featuring a dusting of quality French oak, along with the exceptionally bright, flavoursome and juicy cassis and blackcurrant fruit on the very long palate; a wine of finesse and elegance.
From Coonawarra, SA
Drink now-2020 with parmagiana
www.mcwilliams.com.au

Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
96 points, $75.99, S, 14 % alc
A wine that has flowered since first tasted a year ago; deeply coloured, the bouquet is starting to unfurl cassis and dark berry aromas, the palate offering wonderfully precise and clear ripe (but not overripe) varietal fruit. French oak adds spicy notes to the back-palate, the finish feasting on fine-grained tannins. Sue Hodder, take a bow.
From Coonawarra, SA
Drink 2010-2025 with lamb shoulder with rosemary and garlic
www.wynns.com.au

Balnaves of Coonawarra The Tally Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
96 points, $95, PC, 15% alc
From the best portions of two estate vineyards, and given 20 months maturation in new French oak. Beautifully delineated cassis fruit is framed by gently toasty oak and some floral notes; the palate is rich, deep, fine and very long; the brightness of fruit at the core is the essence of this wine, as is its harmony and balance.
From Coonawarra, SA
Drink 2011-2021 with slow-cooked lamb shanks
www.balnaves.com.au

Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2007
97 points, $95, S, 14% alc
The severe frosts that caused such widespread damage in the spring of 2006 hit Clonakilla hard, savagely reducing the eventual crop, the only compensation the extraordinary quality of this wine. It is hard to imagine how much more flavour could be generated at this alcohol; a perfumed bouquet and an Arabian night of dark berry flavours; the tannins show masterly winemaking at work.
From Canberra District, NSW
Drink now-2022 with Wagyu beef cheek
www.clonakilla.com.au

Woodlands Colin Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
96 points, $95, S, 13.5% alc
Has 95% cabernet sauvignon, 4% malbec and 1% cabernet franc (which spends 23 months in new French oak). A classic example of cabernet with leafy notes sitting gracefully on top of cassis and a little black olive complexity; rich yet fine on the palate, with fine-grained tannins; oak now starting to integrate.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink 2010-2020 with beef Provencale
www.woodlandswines.com

Brokenwood Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz 2006
96 points, $125, S, 13.5% alc
Fermented in two tonne open pots and matured in 80% new oak. Strong purple-crimson; has every bit of the intensity and structure expected of this wine, with a mix of red cherry, blackberry, French oak and a lilting finish thanks to spot-on acidity. Immaculate line, length and balance. A great Graveyard.
From Hunter Valley, NSW
Drink 2011-2026 with oven-roasted goat
www.brokenwood.com.au

Penfolds Grange 2003
95 points, $550, C, 14.5% alc
To be frank, I agonised over the inclusion of this wine, which is not in the same class as the 2002 or the forthcoming ’04, ’05 and ’06 (a brilliant trio). But it is Australia’s iconic red wine, and will improve out of sight over the next 20 years. Deep and bright colour; density and structure; the fruit is rich, but not spongy or dead. Ultra careful selection.
From Barossa Valley, Coonawarra, McLaren Vale, Magill, SA
Drink 2015-2030 (leave it in the cellar)
www.penfolds.com.au

Australian sparkling
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I make no apology for failing to select sparkling wines priced under $20. They are perfectly pleasant drinks that will inevitably be purchased on store position and discount pricing, with little cause for contemplation. Those selected are in a different league.

Seppelt Original Sparkling Shiraz 2005
92 points, $20.99
Sparkling red wines were all the rage until the mid-1950s, one noted consumer describing them as ‘pinky plonk, or paradise for two’. Seppelt breathed life back into the category in the late 1970s, and has stayed in front of the field. This entry-point version has complex, spicy black fruit flavours on the palate, which is neither oaky nor, praise be, sweet.
www.seppeltwines.com.au

Brown Brothers Pinot Noir Chardonnay Pinot Meunier NV
93 points, $23.50
The high-altitude Whitlands vineyard of Brown Brothers provides it with a continuous source of quality grapes, hence the consistency of this wine, and the trophy and gold medal success of this particular bottling. Straw-green, it has considerable complexity on the bouquet and palate, with nutty brioche nuances; it finishes with energy and hence considerable length.
www.brownbrothers.com.au

Petaluma Croser 2005
94 points, $35
First it was Salinger to topple from its throne, now it’s Croser, like Salinger, well down the price totem pole it once headed. A blend of 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay from the Piccadilly Valley subregion of the Adelaide Hills, it is – as always – supremely elegant and understated, but has a little more mid-palate fruit than some prior vintages, and has particularly good length.
www.petaluma.com.au

Yarrabank Cuvee 2004
95 points, $38
Sourced from the Upper Yarra Valley and Mornington Peninsula, it contains 53% chardonnay and 47% pinot noir. The wine does not undergo malolactic fermentation and spends four years on yeast lees. With fine, persistent mousse it is a seamless blend of elegance, flavour and balance, with no one character dominant on the long, fine palate; the latest in a long series of outstanding sparklings.
www.yering.com

Domaine Chandon Vintage Brut 2005
95 points, $39
The blend of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meuniere is composed of 30 different multi-region components, and spent 24 months on lees. It is, without question, one of the best vintage bruts from Domaine Chandon for many years. Touches of biscuit and brioche are woven through delicious fruit flavours, the lingering, clean finish with perfect dosage.
www.chandon.com.au

Arras Pinot Noir Chardonnay 2002
95 points, $60
The genius of sparkling winemaker Ed Carr lies behind all the wines in this category made by Hardys. He is forthright in his view that the best base wines come from Tasmanian chardonnay and pinot noir, and Arras is 100% Tasmanian. Prolonged time on lees has given the wine a toasty/nutty streak, providing textural and flavour complexity to the bright core of white peach and citrus fruit, the finish as long and lingering as one could possibly wish for.
www.bayoffireswines.com.au

Primo Estate Joseph Sparkling Red NV
95 points, $65
‘Here it is, the modern history of Australian wine in one bottle.’ Disgorged in August 2007, it contains every vintage from the 1980s on, with some from the early ’60s and ’70s. The colour shows obvious development, and has very complex leather, spice, tar and licorice aromas, the mouthfilling flavours quite unique, oak inevitably part of the picture, but by no means excessively so.
www.primoestate.com.au

Hanging Rock Late Disgorged Macedon Cuvee Eight NV
95 points, $115
A blend of chardonnay and pinot noir from 1997, the remaining half from vintages back to and including ’87, the components bottled in February ’98, spending 10 years on lees before disgorgement in July ’08. Unsurprisingly, extremely complex, with strong nutty brioche character ex lees; a very low dosage ensures elegance along with powerful flavour. Not the least acidic, and aldehydes just where they should be.
www.hangingrock.com.au

Top 100 – 2007

Whites Under $20
Reds Under $20
Whites Over $20
Reds Over $20
Australian Sparkling

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Oxford Landing Sauvignon Blanc 2007
89 points, $7.95, S, 12.5°alc
A special yeast strain (not genetically modified) has been created which enhances the varietal character of sauvignon blanc, allowing wines such as this to be made in theoretically unsuitable warm climates. It has clear-cut varietal character and excellent balance, even if it is not particularly intense. Unbeatable value.
From Riverland, SA
Drink Now with fried whitebait
www.oxfordlanding.com

Jindalee Estate Circle Collection Chardonnay 2006
88 points, $8.95, S, 13.5° alc
Jindalee has 500 hectares of vines up to 30 years old in the Riverland, and crushes close to 10 000 tonnes of grapes annually. It has long been able to produce workmanlike chardonnay at low prices; this has an abundance of soft, peachy fruit offset by citrussy acidity and an airbrush of oak. The screwcap is a great aid in locking in the freshness   of the wine.
From Murray Darling, Vic
Drink Now with takeaway chicken
www.jindaleewines.com.au

Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2006
90 points, $11.95, S, 13.5° alc
A wine which demonstrates Yalumba’s long experience with what can be a troublesome variety to handle in both vineyard and winery. Fresh, if light, honeysuckle, apricot and musk aromas are replayed on the fore-palate, the crisp finish leaving the mouth fresh, not oily.
From South Australia
Drink Now with lemon chicken
www.yalumba.com

Plantagenet Hazard Hill Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2007
91 points, $12, S, 13° alc
The star performer for those looking for value in this supremely popular blend. It has a spotlessly clean bouquet (sweatiness or reduction is not uncommon with sauvignon blanc) with fragrant passionfruit aromas, semillon coming through on the lively citrussy palate; has the crisp delicacy so important to the style.
From Western Australia
Drink Now with lemon-marinated fish
www.plantagenetwines.com

Tyrrell’s Lost Block Semillon 2007
93 points, $13 S, 11° alc
An absurdly cheap semillon, reflecting the embarrassment of riches in the Tyrrell’s stable these days; I am happily working my way through a case of the ’96. Has all the fruit of the ’07 vintage without sacrificing finesse; fine, long lemony fruit plus crisp acidity.
From Hunter Valley, NSW
Drink Now-2017 with cold seafood antipasto
www.tyrrells.com.au

Charles Sturt University Chardonnay 2007
94 points, $13.20, S, 13.5° alc
Given the extraordinary value the Charles Sturt Chardonnay usually offers it is no surprise it is a regular in the Top 100, but this has to be the best yet. It has lovely cool climate nectarine, grapefruit and melon flavours supported by a touch of French oak; terrific length.
From Orange, NSW
Drink Now-2011 with avocado and prawn salad
www.csu.edu.au/winery/

Chateau Francois Pokolbin Mallee Semillon 2000
95 points, $14, C, 11° alc
This has simply got better over the past 12 months, the only caveat being a bottle with a quality cork and no ullage as was this one. Still pale and vibrantly fresh, it has a zesty citrus, herb and mineral palate, with a touch of honey for good measure. A worthy successor to the lovely ’97.
From Hunter Valley, NSW
Drink Now-2010 with stir-fried prawns
Fax (02) 4998 7805

T’Gallant Juliet Pinot Grigio 2007
89 points, $14, S, 12.5° alc
Grumbling and mumbling to myself about the shortcomings of pinot grigio (same thing as pinot gris, but sells better) I can at least point to the modest price. Light-bodied, it is a true seafood style flowing with no interference, the low alcohol and dry finish both distinct pluses.
From Mornington Peninsula, Vic
Drink Now with oysters or pippies
www.tgallant.com.au

Tahbilk Marsanne 2007
93 points, $14.90, S, 12.5° alc
Tahbilk has been growing marsanne for generations; its 1927 plantings are among the oldest in the world. It is a past-master in making long-lived wines, now aided by the screwcap. Clean, fresh and fragrant, mineral, spice and honeysuckle cohabit, leading into a long, crisp finish. No hint of smoke taint or phenolics.
From Nagambie Lakes, Vic
Drink Now-2020 with smoked eel
www.tahbilk.com.au

Chalice Bridge Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2007
94 points, $16.95, S, 12.5° alc
The stranglehold of Western Australia on this style is no surprise, nor is the dominance of semillon over sauvignon blanc in the blend. Fine and intense, it has lovely fruit flavour and balance; grassy/minerally semillon provides the structure, sauvignon blanc the sweet lemon juice and passionfruit.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink Now-2009 with blue lip mussels
www.chalicebridge.com.au

Wise Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2007
95 points, $17, S, 13.5° alc
The large spread of vineyards owned or leased by Wide (40 ha from Margaret River to Donnybrook) underpins the invariably high quality of the white wines of Wise. Here a fragrant citrus and passionfruit bouquet leads into a long palate with perfect clarity and intensity, and a lingering aftertaste.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink Now-2008 with poached pippies
www.wisewine.com.au

Chalkers Crossing Sauvignon Blanc 2007
94 points, $18, S, 13° alc
The current range of Chalkers Crossing wines, all made by Celine Rousseau, are utterly remarkable for their consistent quality and style. Here partial barrel ferment and lees contact has given spicy, smoky (not bushfire) overtones to a sweet gooseberry/tropical fruit mix, followed by a clean, dry finish.
From Tumbarumba, NSW
Drink Now-2008 with salad Nicoise
www.chalkerscrossing.com.au

McLeish Estate Semillon 2007
95 points, $18, S, 11.8° alc
The extremely early Hunter vintage produced semillons of unusual depth of flavour at alcohol levels typically 1? higher than usual, no problem for master winemaker Andrew Thomas. Bright green-yellow, It has an intensely aromatic lemon and grass bouquet, a deliciously expressive palate of vibrant fruit, and a touch of spritz.
From Hunter Valley, NSW
Drink Now-2013 with carpacchio of salmon
www.mcleishhunterwines.com.au

O’Leary Walker Sauvignon Blanc 2007
95 points, $18.50, S, 12.5° alc
There is no question Adelaide Hills is one of the foremost regions for sauvignon blanc, notwithstanding the variety’s reach from Margaret River to Tasmania. This wine has a fragrant and expressive bouquet of stone fruit and passionfruit, precisely reflected in the long, perfectly balanced palate, finishing with crisp, citrussy acidity.
From Adelaide Hills, SA
Drink Now with sugar-cured tuna
www.olearywalkerwines.com

West Cape Howe Riesling 2007
95 points, $19, S, 12° alc
Shows once again that the southern regions of Western Australia are formidable challengers to the rieslings of the Clare and Eden Valleys (as, indeed, is Tasmania). A spotlessly clean bouquet is followed by a fine and taught palate with lemon, lime and mineral flavours, then a long, lingering, zesty finish. Great potential.
From Great Southern, WA
Drink Now-2014 with crab cakes
www.westcapehowewines.com.au

Ashbrook Estate Verdelho 2007
93 points, $19.99, S, 14° alc
West Australia’s Verdelhos are better than any others, the exception proving the rule coming from the Hunter Valley in good vintages. Bright green-yellow, this wine has a distinctively aromatic tropical fruit bouquet, then a palate with added passionfruit and citrus nuances, giving it character and length.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink Now-2010 with Margaret River abalone
Tel (08) 9755 6262

Delatite Sylvia Riesling 2006
95 points, $19.99, S, 9° alc
Joins a growing number of riesling producers from cool regions (Bellarmine, Hood Wines, et al) making wine in the style of the Kabinetts from Mosel, Germany, stopping the fermentation early, leaving significant residual sugar. This is a beautifully balanced example, the sweet lime juice fruit offset by perfectly balanced acidity.
From Upper Goulburn, Vic
Drink Now with any Chinese seafood
www.delatitewinery.com.au

Fifth Leg Chardonnay 2006
94 points, $19.99, S, 13° alc
This chardonnay has to be one of the best second-label wines going, reflecting both its Margaret River origin and experienced winemaking. White peach tinged with grapefruit flavours seamlessly marry with a light but balanced input of French oak; balance and length are thus guaranteed.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink Now-2012 with salmon risotto
www.fifthleg.com.au

Poverty Hill Cellar Matured Riesling 2001
95 points, $19.99, S, 11.1° alc
You can buy the lovely 2007 Poverty Hill Riesling for $18 (or vintages in between) or have all the trouble of prolonged cellaring avoided for only $2 more. Brilliant, glowing yellow-green, it has intense classic lime and toast aromas, joined by a touch of honey on the palate before moving to a bone-dry but satisfying finish.
From Eden Valley, SA
Drink Now-2011 with calamari tempura
www.povertyhillwines.com.au

Stella Bella Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2007
94 points, $19.99, S, 13° alc
Winemaker Janice McDonald has guided Stella Bella from a minnow to a large fish in the Margaret River scene without missing a beat. Nowhere is this more evident than with this wine, with its classically modelled mix of herb, grass, citrus and gooseberry; great line and flow through to the finish.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink Now-2009 with yabbies
www.stellabella.com.au

Reds Under $20
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It is in this group of wines in particular that the silver lining of the grapes surplus (plus the very good 2006 and ’05 vintages) has led to wines which over-deliver in their price brackets. Moreover, while the $9.99 price point is a critical one for big volume, it is interesting to see wines at $15, $16, $18, $19 and $19.95 in stark contrast to the regimented price bands of the United Kingdom.

Mount Hurtle Rose 2007
88 points, $8, S, 13° alc
Were it not for the giveaway price of this wine, Angove’s Nine Vines Rose would have been selected. Here vivid fuchsia colour heralds a wine with super-abundant fruit flavour, and which (unusually for rose) demands brasserie summer food to cover the slightly tough finish from McLaren Vale.
From McLaren Vale, SA
Drink Now with pasta
www.mthurtlewines.com.au

Lindemans Bin 50 Shiraz 2006
89 points, $9.95, S 13.5° alc
This won the trophy (and gold medal) for Best Early Drinking Red at the 2006 Perth Wine Show. The screwcap has in fact preserved its fragrance and freshness, along with its surprisingly deep and supple black fruits; there is an airbrush of oak and virtually no tannins, superfluous to the style.
From Southeast Australia
Drink Now with lasagne
www.lindemans.com.au

Angove’s Long Row Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
89 points, $9.99, S 14° alc
The wine comes from various parts of South Australia, not solely from Angove’s vast Nanya Vineyard in the Riverland. Brightly coloured, it has a clean bouquet (no reduction), then attractive, juicy red and black fruits with a savoury twist of tannins and oak on the finish.
From South Australia
Drink Now with lamb kebabs
www.angoves.com.au

Jacob’s Creek Shiraz 2006
89 points, $9.99, S, 14° alc
One of the (so far) enduring labels in domestic and export markets alike. Given the price, a remarkably complete wine with plenty of varietal fruit in a soft, plummy frame before finishing with a tickle of spice and good acidity. This is the ‘I’ve been everywhere wine’.
From Southeast Australia
Drink Now with pizza
www.jacobscreek.com

Warburn Estate Stephendale Shiraz 2006
91 points, $11, S 14° alc
A particularly pointed example of the consequences of the grape surplus, allowing this Riverland winery to venture to the Barossa Valley and buy shiraz at a bargain basement price. Medium-bodied, it has blackberry, licorice and plum fruit, with good texture and mouthfeel and a jab of American oak.
From Barossa, SA
Drink Now-2011 with beef spare ribs
www.warburnestate.com.au

McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate Shiraz Viognier 2005
91 points, $11.95, S, 13.5° alc
Here is yet another side to the surplus, still available at least nine months after release, yet from the deservedly trendy blend of shiraz and viognier. Bright, clearly coloured, it punches well above its weight, with supple black cherry, spice and blackberry fruit lifted on both bouquet and palate by the viognier component.
From Southeast Australia
Drink Now-2010 with spaghetti bolognaise
www.mcwilliams.com.au

Angove’s Nine Vines Shiraz Viognier 2006
92 points, $15, S, 14.5° alc
The Nine Vines brand comes from Angove’s former vineyard at Tea Tree Gully, resumed many years ago for housing, leaving nine vines intact. The viognier has a marked impact on the bouquet, joining abundant black cherry and plum on the palate, which has good tannin and oak support.
From South Australia
Drink Now-2012 with rare roast beef
www.angoves.com.au

Wirra Wirra Scrubby Rise 2006
91 points, $15, S, 14.5° alc
A multi-region blend of shiraz (the major component), cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot which spends 12 months in French and American oak. It is a lively and generous medium-bodied wine with good fruit focus and intensity, offering a mix of well-structured blackberry and blackcurrant fruit, and a long finish.
From South Australia
Drink Now-2012 with lamb ragout
www.wirrawirra.com

De Bortoli Windy Peak Pinot Noir 2007
92 points, $15.99, S, 13° alc
Cold maceration pre-fermentation and whole bunches add finesse and class to this wine which was by far the best pinot under $20. Bright but deep purple-red, it has ripe red and black cherry aromas and flavours, the palate with excellent texture, structure and length. Will improve further.
From Yarra Valley, Vic
Drink Now-2009 with quail
www.debortoli.com.au

West Cape Howe Rose 2007
92 points, $16, S, 13.5° alc
Unthinkable that a producer would line-price its rose with its cabernet merlot? No more. Made from merlot and pinot noir, it has a come-hither pale bright pink colour, and a totally delicious palate with a fresh cascade of strawberry and redcurrant fruits plus a twist of citrussy acidity. To be gulped, not sipped.
From Western Australia
Drink Now with whatever takes your fancy
www.westcapehowewines.com.au

West Cape Howe Cabernet Merlot 2005
93 points, $16, S, 13.5° alc
The exhortation on the back label to drink this with friends at the next barbecue sells the wine short, however enjoyable it might be. Clear purple-red, it abounds with cassis and blackcurrant fruit intermingling with spicy notes, the structure provided by subtle oak and ripe tannins.
From Western Australia
Drink Now-2012 with roast baby kid
www.westcapehowewines.com.au

Orlando Gramp’s Shiraz 2004
95 points, $16.99, C, 14.5° alc
Gold at the National Wine Show ’06 and two important trophies at the Sydney Wine Show ’07 mark the career of this stellar wine, the best value in the Top 100. Medium- to full-bodied, perfect ripeness to the dark, spicy fruit and perfect oak integration, the palate finishing with fine, long tannins.
From SA
Drink Now-2014 with beef provencal
www.orlandowines.com

Gemtree Tatty Road 2006
94 points, $18, S, 14.5° alc
Gemtree’s red wines in the Top 100 tasting were uniformly excellent; this blend of cabernet, petit verdot, merlot and cabernet franc, grown on red loam over limestone no exception, with a strikingly pure array of blackcurrant and redcurrant on a long, silky palate.
From McLaren Vale, SA
Drink Now-2016 with veal kidneys
www.gemtreevineyards.com.au

Wrattonbully Vineyards Tempranillo 2006
92 points, $18.55, S, 14° alc
Tempranillo is the most distinguished Spanish indigenous variety, now popping up all over Australia, but still finding its way, young vines still to offer their best. Bright and clear, it offers a delicious, fresh and supple panoply of red fruits, spices and tannins, uncomplicated and seductive.
From Wrattonbully, SA
Drink Now with milk-fed lamb
www.yalumba.com

Brookland Valley Verse 1 Rose 2007
93 points, $18.99, S, 12.5° alc
Skilfully crafted from early-picked merlot and cabernet franc, its roots going back decades to Houghton Cabernet Rose. Vividly coloured, it has wonderful mouthfeel, intensely fruity yet finishing bone dry with crystalline acidity driving the lingering finish and aftertaste.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink Now with spring sunshine
www.brooklandvalley.com.au

Coriole Sangiovese 2006
92 points, $19.95, S, 14° alc
Coriole was the pioneer of sangiovese in Australia, planting the first vines in 1985. While not as capricious as Italy’s other great grape, nebbiolo, it is no pushover. The fragrant red cherry fruit of the bouquet flows into the fore-palate before savoury, powdery tannins run through to the finish.
From McLaren Vale, SA
Drink Now-2011 with anything Italian
www.coriole.com

Gemtree Uncut Shiraz 2006
95 points, $19.99, C, 14.5° alc
From 40-year-old vines, open-fermented, basket-pressed and aged for 16 months in French and American oak. Deeply coloured, it has an opulent but not jammy bouquet and palate, with a range of blackberry, licorice and dark chocolate fruit supported by positive, though not aggressive oak and ripe tannins.
From McLaren Vale, SA
Drink 2008-2015 with grilled T-bone steak
www.gemtreevineyards.com.au

Arakoon Sellicks Beach Shiraz 2005
95 points, $19.99, S, 14.5° alc
First tasted soon after bottling, it has evolved splendidly over the ensuing six months — note, notwithstanding its screwcap. Still deep red-purple, it is a plush, velvety, richly textured wine with multi-flavoured black fruits, a wrapping of regional dark chocolate adding to the strong sense of place the wine exudes.
From McLaren Vale, SA
Drink 2008-2018 with kangaroo fillet
Tel (08) 8323 7339

Neagles Rock Misery Grenache Shiraz 2006
93 points, $19.99, S, 14.5° alc
Produced from 35-year-old grenache and from Duncans Block shiraz, which evidently enjoyed the ’06 vintage conditions; has much more tension and focus than prior years and the Clare generally; has attractive red fruits and a long finish, with particularly good acidity (rather than tannins) holding the palate together.
From Clare Valley, SA
Drink Now-2011 with beef casserole
www.neaglesrock.com

Poverty Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
95 points, $19.99, S, 15° alc
One of the newer stars in the Eden Valley, producing high quality wines across the range, all over-delivering. From how-yielding mature vines, and spends 18 months in old oak hogsheads. It has intense, pure, blackcurrant/cassis fruit through a long palate with drive and vibrancy, plus soft, ripe tannins; no alcohol heat.
From Eden Valley, SA
Drink 2010-2025 or leave it in the cellar
www.povertyhillwines.com.au

Whites Over $20
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With 205 wines vying for selection, and only a handful ruling themselves out of contention (mainly through cork-related issues), this was as difficult a task as any this year. While I have deliberately spread the varietal net to include four rieslings, three semillons, two sauvignon blancs, two sauvignon blanc semillons and a viognier, the heart of this group is the eight superb chardonnays — even at this number grossly underrepresented if quality were to be the sole yardstick.

Yering Station Chardonnay 2006
95 points, $23, S, 13° alc
Winemaker Tom Carson is one of many cool climate chardonnay makers to decide to pick the grapes earlier to reduce the alcohol and to decrease the amount of new oak. That said, this is an intense wine, bringing strong stone fruit, melon and citrus cool climate characters augmented by barrel ferment and lees inputs on the long palate.
From Yarra Valley, Vic
Drink Now-2011 with Chinese-style baked fish
www.yering.com

Voyager Estate Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2007
95 points, $24, S, 12.8° alc
Voyager makes a practice of over-delivering across the full range of its wines, and this is no exception. As usual a blend of 55% sauvignon blanc and 45% semillon, the fragrant, delicate bouquet moves through a tropical to passionfruit to citrus spectrum, repeated on the long and fine palate, also reflecting its modest alcohol.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink Now-2010 with tempura
www.voyagerestate.com.au

Howard Park Riesling 2007
96 points, $25, S, 12.5° alc
Year-in, year-out, one of Australia’s best rieslings, and has a future as long as that of Bay of Fires thanks to its screwcap. As usual, has flawless aromas and flavours of passionfruit, lime and apple, the palate long and perfectly balanced, the aftertaste as fresh as a spring day. One of the champions of Great Southern riesling.
From Great Southern, WA
Drink Now-2020 with seafood antipasto
www.howardparkwines.com.au

Tower Estate Semillon 2006
95 points, $26, C, 10.5°alc
Made from 30-year-old hand-pruned vines and hand-picked grapes; one of only a couple of Hunter Valley semillon makers still persisting with corks. Bright, light straw-green, it is an exceptionally intense wine with a cascade of citrus, grass and minerally flavours running through a very long palate and zesty finish.
From Hunter Valley, NSW
Drink Now-2013 with sautéed scallops
www.towerestatewines.com.au

Bay of Fires Tigress Riesling 2007
96 points, $26.50, S, 11° alc
Riesling, sparkling wine and pinot noir are Tasmania’s trump cards, and will withstand the challenges of climate change better than most. Floral hints of lime and passionfruit on the bouquet lead into a vibrant palate stacked full of those flavours running through to a long, perfectly balanced finish; natural acidity underwrites a long future for Tasmania.
From Tasmania
Drink Now-2020 with Tasmanian salmon carpacchio
www.bayoffireswines.com.au

Frankland Estate Isolation Ridge Riesling 2007
96 points, $27, S, 12° alc
Judi Cullam is a tireless champion of riesling and terroir, thus it’s wholly fitting that this exemplary wine should come from the near-20-year-old estate vines. Powerful aromas of lemon and lime, plus touches of spice, all followed by an even more powerful and intense palate with dominant citrus flavours and great length.
From Frankland River, WA
Drink Now-2017 with asparagus terrine
www.franklandestate.com.au

Ashbrook Estate Chardonnay 2006
96 points, $29, S, 13.5° alc
Fifty percent of this wine was barrel-fermented in new French oak and given six months maturation in that oak; the remainder was fermented in stainless steel. Bright green-yellow, it is an extremely complex wine with some deliberate funky aromas reminiscent of white burgundy. Grapefruit and nectarine drive the palate, with the oak well-balanced and integrated.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink Now-2012 with grilled spatchcock
Tel (08) 9755 6262

Oakridge Fume Blanc 2007
95 points, $29, S, 11.5° alc
A slightly unfashionable name, perhaps, but denoting whole bunch-pressed juice, 100% barrel-fermented with wild yeast. From the cool Upper Yarra, which has provided the gooseberry and passionfruit flavours able to match the textural complexity derived from the barrel fermentation. Skilled and sophisticated winemaking by David Bicknell.
From Yarra Valley, Vic
Drink Now-2009 with hollandaise sauce
www.oakridgeestate.com.au

Heggies Reserve Chardonnay 2005
96 points, $34.95, S, 14° alc
Most discussion on new Burgundian clones concerns pinot noir, but it is arguable the chardonnay clones which arrived around the same time are better. Here clones 76, 95 and 96 are planted on a 1.3-ha block, and produce a dazzlingly clear wine, with a seamless flow of fruit, oak and acidity, the finish and aftertaste exhilarating.
From Eden Valley, SA
Drink Now-2013 with abalone
www.heggiesvineyard.com

Leo Buring Leonay DWK17 Riesling 2007
95 points, $36.95, S, 11.5° alc
In historical terms, the greatest riesling brand in Australia, with a track record back to the mid 1960s, spanning both the Clare and Eden Valleys. This is the brand leader, the bouquet with lime blossom and spice, then a fine and elegant palate full of regional lime juice, finishing dry.
From Eden Valley, SA
Drink Now-2017 with soft shell crab
www.leoburing.com.au

Geoff Weaver Ferus Lenswood Sauvignon Blanc 2005
96 points, $38, S, 13° alc
Majestically breaks all the rules by spectacularly improving since it was bottled, and which shows that sauvignon blanc can be fashioned into stunning complexity. It was 100% barrel-fermented in French oak and spent 12 months on yeast lees, had no added acid, yet retains the hallmark Weaver elegance through to its long, fresh finish.
From Adelaide Hills, SA
Drink Now-2010 with salmon risotto
www.geoffweaver.com.au

Shaw & Smith M3 Chardonnay 2006
97 points, $38, S, 13.5° alc
Sophisticated winemaking by Martin Shaw sees whole bunch-pressed grapes, partial barrel fermentation and maturation for 12 months, part wild yeast, long lees contact and partial malolactic fermentation. Super-fine and elegant, all the components are seamlessly married, nectarine and citrus fruit the primary driver through to the long, lingering finish.
From Adelaide Hills, SA
Drink Now-2012 with sweetbreads
www.shawandsmith.com

Cape Mentelle Walcliffe Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2005
96 points, $40, S, 13° alc
This wine very deliberately pushes the envelope with wild yeast fermentation and maturation in 100% new and used French oak, going through a full malolactic fermentation. It has got greater depth and richness than all other Margaret River blends, though time in bottle also helps; a beautifully balanced and poised wine, strongly reminiscent of white Bordeaux.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink Now-2011 with mild-fed veal
www.capementelle.com.au

Tyrrell’s Single Vineyard HVD Semillon 2001
96 points, $42, C, 10.7° alc
The HVD (Hunter Valley Distillery) vineyard was planted in 1908 on the free-draining sandy soils common to almost all the great semillon vineyards in the Hunter Valley. Classic semillon, both in terms of its maker and near-100-year-old vines; just starting to pick up honey and lemon notes, toast in the background, all on a base of freshness and finesse.
From Hunter Valley, NSW
Drink Now-2015 with blue swimmer crab
www.tyrrells.com.au

Clyde Park Reserve Chardonnay 2006
96 points, $44, S, 13° alc
The difference between the Clyde Park varietal and Reserve releases is substantial, which is as it should be. This wine is 100% barrel-fermented in and matured for up to 14 months in French oak; it matches and marries finesse and complexity, never easy. Finely focused citrus and melon fruit is enfolded in a fine web of oak, the palate long, the aftertaste lingering.
From Geelong, Vic
Drink Now-2011 with avocado and prawn salad
www.clydepark.com.au

Yalumba The Virgilius Eden Valley Viognier 2006
96 points, $44.95, S, 14.5° alc
This, says Yalumba, is the pre-eminent white wine of its portfolio. It proclaims its class and power on the first whiff of the bouquet, and makes an emphatic varietal statement on the palate with pear, apricot and musk, tied together by citrussy acidity; barrel ferment adds texture and structure.
From Eden Valley, SA
Drink Now-2010 with pork neck
www.yalumba.com

Brokenwood ILR Semillon 2002
95 points, $45, C, 11.3° alc
Brokenwood has switched to screwcap since 2002, its only regret not doing it sooner, as up to one-third of the ILR (Iain Leslie Riggs) releases were discarded each year (oxidation). Pale, bright green-straw, this is a superbly fine, crisp and delicate wine, still to fully show its wares, honey and toast to come.
From Hunter Valley, NSW
Drink Now-2013 with sautéed scallops
www.brokenwood.com.au

Oakridge 864 Chardonnay 2006
96 points, $49, S, 13.5° alc
Yet another wine to showcase the exemplary winemaking skills of David Bicknell, fermented in large French oak barrels using wild/indigenous/natural yeast (different words, same thing). It is a superbly built wine, created with white burgundy in mind, but relying on high quality fruit, tightly controlled oak inputs, then minimum interference resulting in seamless line and flow.
From Yarra Valley, Vic
Drink Now-2012 with fresh Tasmanian salmon
www.oakridgeestate.com.au

Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2004
97 points, $92, S, 14.5° alc
A collective sigh of relief greeted the release of this great wine under screwcap. In a tasting earlier this year I wrote the fruit literally sings (like Leeuwin’s annual concerts); white peach, nectarine and grapefruit are the sopranos, barrel ferment and limited malolactic fermentation the orchestra behind. Over the intervening six months the wine has moved into an even higher register of perfection.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink Now-2019 with Margaret River marron
www.leeuwinestate.com.au

Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay 2004
97 points, $120, S, 14.5° alc
This is the unchallenged jewel in the crown of Penfolds’ white wines, always intended to sit alongside Grange. It shares many of the flavours of the Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay, seamlessly integrated with quality French oak and perfectly balanced acidity. The screwcap will check the unduly rapid development of some of the earlier releases.
From Cool climate blend
Drink Now-2019 with truffled pheasant
www.penfolds.com.au

Reds Over $20
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This was a full-blown nightmare. Remember that all these wines come from a shortlist of wineries with a track record of top-class wines. The only way I could see, full of imperfections and injustices though it may be, was to allocate positions more or less in proportion to the number of each varieties or styles submitted. Thus I ended up with three pinot noirs, ten shirazs (out of 169 submitted), two shiraz viogniers, one merlot, three cabernet sauvignons and one cabernet merlot. The newer alternative varieties simply couldn’t force their way in, commendable though some were.

De Bortoli Gulf Station Shiraz Viognier 2006
94 points, $21, S, 14° alc
A toss up between this wine and the Yering Station, decided as much on overall airplay (Yering has its day elsewhere) as price or quality: both wines are outstanding. Highly aromatic, scented and spicy; a vibrant palate with clarion-clear line and length to its effusive red fruits, fine tannins and subtle oak.
From Yarra Valley, Vic
Drink Now-2015 with veal ravioli
www.debortoli.com.au

Grant Burge Cameron Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
95 points, $22.95, C, 13.5° alc
There is an embarrassment of riches with cabernet sauvignon ex 2004 from McLaren Vale and the Barossa, Clare and Eden Valleys. This wine has exceptional colour and a great bouquet, the delicious but serious cabernet palate with blackcurrant and cassis offset by savoury tannins and quality French oak.
From Barossa Valley, SA
Drink Now-2014 with braised lamb shanks
www.grantburgewines.com.au

Wolf Blass Gold Label Shiraz 2005
94 points, $23, S, 14.5° alc
All the artistry of the Blass red wine team under the direction of Caroline Dunn is used at this price point as well as $100-plus versions: small batch fermentation and later selection and blending. Bold flavours of blackberry, plum and licorice are packaged with satiny oak and supple tannins.
From Barossa Valley, SA
Drink Now-2015 with beef shashlik
www.wolfblass.com.au

Leasingham Bin 61 Shiraz 2005
95 points, $24, S, 13.5° alc
A label with a proud 40-year history, and which won a gold medal at this year’s Sydney Wine Show, demonstrating that great colour and flavour don’t require high alcohol. Vivid deep purple-red, its powerful, focused and perfectly balanced dark berry fruit is supported by ripe tannins and good oak.
From Clare Valley, SA
Drink 2010-2025 with char-grilled rump steak
www.leasingham-wines.com.au

Yering Station Pinot Noir 2006
95 points, $24, S, 13.5° alc
Yering Station’s big three wines are chardonnay, pinot noir and shiraz viognier, each with a Reserve version when justified; all are models of consistency. A bright, and clear colour leads into a classic pinot bouquet, flavour and structure; the oak is restrained, with fruit to the fore, then silky tannins on the long finish.
From Yarra Valley, Vic
Drink Now-2013 with coq au vin
www.yering.com

Hewitson Ned & Henry’s Shiraz 2006
95 points, $25, S, 14.5° alc
Dean Hewitson has made very post a winner since leaving Petaluma in 1996, ferreting out patches of old vines, then making the wines with flair. This entry-point, medium-bodied wine has fresh plum, black cherry and blackberry fruit flavours, polished tannins and subtle oak; impressive length and balance.
From Barossa Valley, SA
Drink Now-2020 with kangaroo fillet
www.hewitson.com.au

Ferngrove Majestic Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
95 points, $26, C, 15° alc
Has flowered in bottle over the past 15 months, winning trophies and/or gold medals at the National Wine Show, Perth and Qantas Wine Show of Western Australia. Ripe, dense blackcurrant fruit, ripe tannins and cedary oak have now seamlessly welded and balanced; quality cork is reassuring.
From Great Southern, WA
Drink Now-2-15 with herbed rack of spring lamb
www.ferngrove.com.au

Lillydale Estate Pinot Noir 2006
95 points, $26, S, 14.5° alc
This McWilliam’s-owned winery has gone about its business with a minimum of fanfare, but consistently makes elegant wines across the full range, with significant show success. Has very appealing, high-toned cherry/red fruit aromas with the palate following precisely the same track; the structure and length are admirable.
From Yarra Valley, Vic
Drink Now-2013 with roast squab
www.mcwilliams.com.au

Best’s Bin 1 Shiraz 2005
94 points, $27, S,14.5° alc
This is the middle wine in the three-tiered shiraz releases of Best’s (Bin O is top, a traditional label in a traditional winery). A super-refined light- to medium-bodied wine, its black fruits are supported by a fine web of silky tannins and perfectly judged French and American oak.
From Grampians, Vic
Drink Now-2020 with fillet of beef
www.bestswines.com

Narkoojee The Athelstan Merlot 2004
95 points, $30, D, 13.5° alc
Narkoojee is aboriginal for place of flowers, Athelstan the name of winemaker Harry Friend’s late father. This to one side, the wine has improved substantially over the past year into lovely varietal expression, with spicy raspberry and cassis-accented fruit supported by gossamer tannins on a long palate.
From Gippsland, Vic
Drink Now-2014 with pan-fried veal
www.narkoojee.com

Tarrington Vineyards Artemisia Shiraz 2006
95 points, $35, S, 13.7° alc
Tamara Irish may not be known to many, but once met (or even spoken to), never forgotten. Self-taught, she crafts small quantities of Chablis-like chardonnay, focused pinot noir, and shiraz. Deeply coloured, elegantly textured and supple, its smooth spiced black fruits and ripe tannins run through a very long palate.
From Henty, Vic
Drink Now-2026 with poached game
www.tarrington.com.au

Turkey Flat Shiraz 2005
95 points, $45, C, 14.5° alc
The backbone of this perennial favourite is provided by vines planted in 1847 (plus younger vines), which finishes its fermentation in and is matured in French oak. Deeply coloured, it offers dark fruits ranging through blackberry, plum and a dash of licorice on a restrained but focused palate. Has thrown a crust and needs decanting.
From Barossa Valley, SA
Drink Now-2015 with osso buco
www.turkeyflat.com.au

Peter Lehmann The 1885 Shiraz 2005
96 points, $55, S, 14.5° alc
It is wholly appropriate that Peter Lehmann, the most fierce defender of Barossa Valley grape growers, should make this wine from 122-year-old vines, tended by six generations. It has excellent intensity, balance and focus, redolent of blackberry, plum, mint and spice; very good texture and structure.
From Barossa Valley, SA
Drink Now-2020 with Barossa Valley smoked beef
www.peterlehmannwines.com

Dalwhinnie Moonambel Shiraz 2005
96 points, $58, C, 14.3° alc
Dalwhinnie’s shiraz vines are now 30 years old, but even when young they produced outstanding wine. It is no surprise that this vintage should flood the mouth with perfectly ripened black cherry, plum and blackberry fruit, the oak positive but seamless, the tannins likewise. A delicious wine with great mouthfeel, line and length.
From Pyrenees, Vic
Drink Now-2020 with beef cheek
www.dalwhinnie.com.au

Ashton Hills Reserve Pinot Noir 2005
96 points, $60, S, 14° alc
Site selection is very important for pinot noir in the Adelaide Hills; one of the best (and oldest) vineyards is that of Ashton Hills. This is a particularly striking wine, offering a complex and long mix of plum, cherry, spice, stem and forest notes, with the power and structure to develop over many years.
From Adelaide Hills, SA
Drink Now-2015 with wild mushroom risotto
Tel (08) 8390 1243

Wirra Wirra RSW Shiraz 2005
96 points, $60, S, 14.5° alc
This wine shows why Wirra Wirra was recently given the title of Best Red Winemaker in the World at the International Wine Challenge Awards in London. It has an exceptionally long and intense palate; red and black fruits, with strong regional dark chocolate, are supported by fine tannins.
From McLaren Vale, SA
Drink Now-2025 with Irish stew
www.wirrawirra.com

Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
96 points, $72.95, S, 13.5° alc
Winemaker Sue Hodder has succeeded brilliantly in refining and focussing all the Wynns reds, none more so that Michael Shiraz and this truly lovely wine. Richness in terms of the multilayered texture first up, then multifaceted nuances of different levels of ripeness provide harmony in the long palate and sheer class on the finish.
From Coonawarra, SA
Drink 2009-2029 with butterfly leg of lamb
www.wynns.com.au

Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2006
96 points, $80, S, 14° alc
This is the 15th release by Tim Kirk, who blazed the shiraz viognier trail for the galloping herd to follow. Six per cent co-fermented viognier gives the usual bright, crystal clear colour, and a silky mouthfeel to the luscious, spicy red and black fruits on the extremely long palate; precise tannins and oak balance.
From Canberra District
Drink Now-2020 with roast venison
www.clonakilla.com.au

Cullen Diana Madeline 2005
96 points, $90, S, 14° alc
Vanya Cullen only knows how to make great wine, here juggling cabernet sauvignon (75%), merlot, malbec, cabernet franc and petit verdot. In archetypal Cullen style, it has a backbone of ripe but persistent tannins to the array of black fruit flavours, which have the density and intensity to easily carry the wine through to its very long plateau of maturity.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink 2010-2030 with roast saltbush lamb
www.cullenwines.com.au

Penfolds Grange 2002
97 points, $500, C, 14.5° alc
Starred in the October 2007 Rewards of Patience tasting, just as it did when first released. A wonderful bouquet of a multitude of dark fruit aromas, the palate with impeccable texture and balance; a seamless array of blackberry, spice and licorice flavours, oak perfectly pitched. Destined to become of the great Granges.
From South Australia
Drink Now-2042 with Wagyu beef
www.penfolds.com.au

Australian Sparkling
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There is no question the quality of Australian sparkling wines continues to improve year in, year out. Moreover, compared to Australian still table wines, they are underpriced both in terms of the cost of their production and their quality. Indeed, the higher-priced wines offer the best value for money. That said, the points for these sparkling wines cannot re equated with those of the Champagnes.

Deakin Estate Brut NV
87 points $9.99
Ten years ago a sparkling wine at this price point would have been made from anything but chardonnay and pinot noir, and not been estate-grown. It has surprisingly fine bead (or mousse), and is clean and fresh with citrus and stone fruit (ex chardonnay) to the fore; the balance is good, the touch of sweetness what the market wants.

Hardys Sir James Brut de Brut NV
90 points, $15.99
A blend of predominantly cool-grown pinot noir and chardonnay which spends two years on yeast lees, and is made for serious consumers. Pale straw-green, with a fine mousse, it has the complexity most wines at this price point lack, even though the focus is on the fresh, lively citrussy fruit which drives the wine through to its quite long and dry finish.

Jansz Tasmania Premium Rose NV
91 points, $22.95
This was one of the first sparkling wines to come from Tasmania. The precise varietal make-up is not specified, but given it is 100% Tasmanian and is based on several vintages, it is fair to assume it is a pinot-dominant wine as the pale salmon colour and red fruit flavours suggest; bready/toasty notes plus a dry finish complete a quality wine.

Petaluma Croser 2004
94 points, $35
It’s a sign of the times that this wine is significantly cheaper than many of the super-premium Australian sparkling wines, once it was one of the most expensive. A blend of 68% pinot noir and 32% chardonnay, it has flourished in bottle over the past year, still with flowery blossom and brioche aromas, but more weight and length to the palate, and the lingering, dry finish.

Domaine Chandon Vintage Brut 2004
95 points, $39
This contains no less than 30 base wine components spanning pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier, which then spent 30 months on lees prior to disgorgement. Pale straw, flecked with green, it has ripe, but not heavy, stone fruit with a creamy texture and a surprisingly delicate and fresh finish. A very attractive wine (as is the Tasmanian Cuvee).

Clover Hill 2003
96 points, $41.99
The wine is based on a blend of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier (in that order), partially aged in oak before being bottle fermented, spending three years on lees. Glints of gold run through the straw colour and introduce a palate with a rippling of stone fruit, ripe apple, red berry and spice flavours augmented by a touch of brioche, followed by a long, well-balanced finish.

Yarrabank Late Disgorged 1999
96 points, $45
Both the 1998 and ’99 Late Disgorged Yarrabanks (spending up to seven years on lees) are superlative wines. Incredibly bright green-straw, it is as fresh and lively on its feet as the colour suggests, with flavours and aromas of spice, citrus, apple and brioche before moving through to a quite brilliant finish and aftertaste. The zero dosage (ie no added sugar when disgorged) has paid big dividends.

Bay of Fires Arras 2001
96 points, $9.99
This is the seventh vintage release of Arras, originally under the Hardy brand, but now taken to its birthplace in Tasmania. Here over five years on lees and the usual plethora of gold medals tell part of the tale for a wine with a deliciously fine and intense array of fruit aromas and flavours running through the length of the lingering palate, notes of cashew, brioche and cracked wheat no more than a background zephyr.

Top 100 – 2006

Whites Under $20
Whites Over $20
Reds Under $20
Reds Over $20
Australian Sparkling Wines

Key to closure abbreviation – C Cork, QC Quality Cork, D Diam, P ProCork, S Screwcap, SY Synthetic, TT Twin-Top Cork, Z Zork

Whites Under $20
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Having drawn attention to the number of blends of semillon and sauvignon blanc, I should confess to some personal bias which has meant no pinot gris came close to the selection. The eminent UK journalist and industry observer Robert Joseph recently quipped that Evian and pinot gris were tasted blind, and Evian won.

McWilliam’s Inheritance Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2006
89 points   $6.95
It is no wonder these blends have secured so much shelf space by appealing to the ABC Club (Anything But Chardonnay), but offering more in response than (say) pinot gris, even at this giveaway price. It is spotlessly clean, crisp and fresh with touches of gooseberry and lychee through to a lively finish.
Drink Now, with Designer Fish and Chips, 14° alc, S, Riverina, NSW
www.mcwilliams.com.au

Gapsted Tobacco Road Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2006
92 points    $12
Gapsted nailed the Tobacco Road in 2005 with sauvignon blanc the major component; here the varieties are reversed but not the value for money. Spotlessly clean, it has an attractive mix of citrus, stone fruit and grapefruit over a base of herb and mineral from the semillon.
Drink Now, with Tom Yum Thai Soup, 12.5° alc, S, Alpine Valley/King Valley, Vic
www.gapstedwines.com.au

Peter Lehmann Barossa Riesling 2005
94 points    $12
The winemaking team at Peter Lehmann knows exactly how to leverage the grape grower loyalties created over three decades. Pale straw-green, the wine has a scented, flowery bouquet, with lively and long citrus and tropical fruit flavours. A gold medal winner at the Sydney Royal Wine Show 2006.
Drink Now-2009, with Sashimi of blue fin tuna, S, 12° alc, Barossa Valley, SA
www.peterlehmannwines.com.au

Yalumba Y Series Sauvignon Blanc 2006
91 points    $12
Punches well above its price class, leading the Y series varietals most years, this being no exception. Pale straw-green, it has pristine varietal aromas of cut grass and spice, the light but vibrant palate with citrus fruit and a clean, brisk, dry finish.
Drink Now, with Seafood Antipasto, S, 11° alc, South Australia
www.yalumba.com

Tahbilk Marsanne 2006
93 points    $12.95
Some of Tahbilk’s plantings of this Rhone Valley white variety date back to 1927, and those vines are believed to be the oldest in the world. Light straw-green, with aromas of cake, honey, melon and spice, then a long, harmonious palate, with a gold-plated guarantee to develop honeysuckle and gentle toast as it ages over the next 10-plus years.
Drink Now-2016, with Salmon Mousse, S, 13.5° alc, Nagambie Lakes, Vic
www.tahbilk.com.au

Charles Sturt University Chardonnay 2005
94 points    $13
Orange and Tumbarumba are the foremost regions in New South Wales for the production of cool climate chardonnay, indeed chardonnay of any style. Pale green-straw, perfumed peach and citrus blossom aromas lead into an elegant palate with fresh melon and nectarine fruit, a small percentage of barrel ferment oak adding to an excellent finish.
Drink Now-2009, with Salmon Gravlax, S, 13.2° alc, Orange, NSW
www.csu.edu.au/winery/

Rutherglen Estates The Alliance Marsanne Viognier 2005
90 points    $14.95
Inspired by the white wines of the Rhone Valley, this blend of 70% marsanne and 30% viognier works well, the acidity of the marsanne and the broader, juicier and richer spectrum of the flavours of the viognier combining synergistically. A trophy and gold medal winner at the Cowra Wine Show 2006, it is a classic drink now or later proposition.
Drink Now-2008, with Smoked Chicken Salad , S, 14.5° alc, Rutherglen, Vic
Tel (02) 6032 7999

Bellarmine Chardonnay 2005
94 points    $15
While the jury is out on the suitability of the Pemberton region for pinot noir, there is no doubting its capacity to produce delicious white wines. This opens with a touch of spicy oak on the bouquet before intense and lively nectarine and grapefruit flavours take over on the very long palate and aftertaste.
Drink Now-2011, with Grilled Marron with Beurre Blanc, Pemberton, S, 13.6° alc, Pemberton, WA
www.bellarmine.com.au

Brookland Valley Verse 1 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2006
94 points    $15.90
Margaret River and the Great Southern of Western Australia produce semillon sauvignon blancs with, so it seems, consummate ease, even in difficult vintages. This is another first class example, with a zesty, fresh, crisp mix of tropical fruit and more herbaceous notes; good line and length and a bright, crisp finish.
Drink Now-2008, with Poached Scallops in White Wine Sauce, S, 12.5°alc, Margaret River, WA
www.brooklandvalley.com.au

Brown Brothers Whitlands Sauvignon Blanc 2005
94 points    $16
At an elevation of 770-800 metres, Whitlands marks the upper end of the King Valley, bravely pioneered by Brown Brothers between 1981 and 1983. This is uncompromisingly cool climate country, ideal for the variety; the wine beckons with spotless passionfruit and gooseberry aromas and has great line and balance, the vibrant gooseberry fruit lengthened by lemony acidity.
Drink Now-2007, with Salad Nicoise, S, 12.5° alc, King Valley, Vic
www.brownbrothers.com.au

Tyrrell’s Lost Block Semillon 2006
94 points    $16.95
Tyrrell’s regards this wine as a (relatively) early drinking style; I had a bottle of ’96 the other night, and it was still full of life. Typically for young semillon with only the slightest touch of colour; very precise lemon and cut grass aromas and flavours run through to a lingering, fruit-driven, but dry finish.
Drink Now-2016, with Cold Balmain Bugs, S, 11° alc, Hunter Valley, NSW
www.tyrrells.com.au

Majors Lane Semillon 2005
94 points    $17
Deservedly won a gold medal a the Hunter Valley Wine Show 2006, standing up to wines up to eight years older and at the peak of their power. The fresh, slatey bouquet leads into a tightly focused, lemon-accented palate, the long finish and lingering aftertaste revolving around the bright acidity.
Drink 2009-2015, with Bruschetta with Fetta and Tomato, S, 10.3° alc, Hunter Valley, NSW
www.majorslane.com

Castle Rock Estate Riesling 2005
94 points    $18
Vertical tastings over the years have shown time and again how Castle Rock’s rieslings blossom with bottle age. This wine has a degree of precocity: after a powdery/talcy/spicy bouquet, the wineit exploded explodes on the palate, with a mix of citrus and more tropical fruit flavours, then crunchy acidity on a long finish.
Drink 2008-2018, with Szechwan Stir-Fried Prawns, S, 13° alc, Porongurup, WA
www.castlerockestate.com.au

Narkoojee Trafalgar Chardonnay 2004
95 points    $18
Former lecturer in civil engineering and extremely successful winemaker Harry Friend changed horses in 1994 to take control of the family vineyard and winery, and hasn’t missed a beat since. Glowing yellow-green, the wine seamlessly weaves beautiful grapefruit and nectarine through high quality oak, the flavours building through the length of the palate.
Drink Now-2011, with Seafood risotto, C, 13.5° alc, Gippsland
www.narkoojee.com

Radford Dale Riesling 2005
95 points    $18
One of the exciting newcomers to the scene, even though Ben Radford is a very experienced Flying Winemaker, and part of the estate riesling is 75 years old. Light straw-green, the wine has fine and elegant blossom aromas, a long, intense, yet delicate lime and apple palate, and perfect acidity to close.
Drink Now-2015, with Blue Swimmer Crab with Lemon Pepper, S, 12? alc, Eden Valley, SA
Tel (08) 8565 3256

Carbunup Crest Chardonnay 2005
94 points    $18.25
Carbunup Crest, owned by three families and under the direction of Kris Meares, has a proud track record of producing high quality wines at low prices. An elegant wine, perfectly weighted and proportioned, its melon, apple and nectarine fruit is supported and lengthened by very good acidity and subtle oak.
Drink Now-2010, with Salmon Risotto, S, 13.6? alc, Margaret River, WA
www.carbunupcrestwines.com.au

Harewood Estate Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2006
95 points    $19
Owner-winemaker James Kellie seems to have a special empathy with this blend (and some very good grape sources). An array of aromas from snow peas to gooseberry and passionfruit are mirrored on the palate, which has an outstanding finish and lingering aftertaste.
Drink Now-2008, with Grilled Barramundi, S, 12? alc, Denmark, WA
www.harewoodestate.com.au

Longview Vineyard My Fat Goose Semillon 2005
94 points    $19.50
Former Two Dogs founder/owner Duncan MacGillivray has quickly become an important grapegrower in the Adelaide Hills, keeping the pick of the crop for Longview. This is an impressive wine, with tangy, vibrant herb and citrus flavours augmented by a touch of French oak, adding a dimension to the texture and finish.
Drink Now-2013, with Fresh Asparagus and Hollandaise Sauce, S 12.3? alc, Adelaide Hills, SA
www.longviewvineyard.com.au

O’Leary Walker Watervale Riesling 2006
94 points    $19.95
Produced from 45-year-old vines, a yearly companion to the Polish Hill River wine, the latter more effusive, this wine more classic. Slate, mineral and citrus run through a tight and focussed palate, great acidity investing the wine with exceptional length.
Drink 2009-2019, with Chinese-style Stir-Fried Abalone , S, 12.5? alc, Clare Valley, SA
www.olearywalkerwines.com

Stella Bella Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2006
95 points    $19.95
It was an unusually cool, and hence late, vintage in all parts of Western Australia, and the white wines — which were picked before the rain — are excellent. This is a classic wine, elegant and restrained, with perfect balance and structure to the mix of herbs, grass and small green fruits.
Drink Now-2008, with Grilled Scampi, S, 12.5? alc, Margaret River, WA
www.stellabella.com.au

Whites Over $20
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The nine chardonnays in this group are not oaky, peachy and alcoholic, and should be appreciated for the way they combine elegance with varietal fruit flavour. The seven rieslings demonstrate why Jancis Robinson in the massive Oxford Companion to Wine argues riesling is the greatest white variety because it so precisely reflects the terroir in which it is grown, and (unlike great chardonnay) requires no winemaking intervention.

Ferngrove Cossack Riesling 2006
95 points    $20
While the history of this wine isn’t especially long, it glitters with trophies and gold medals, underlining the bond between riesling and the Frankland River terroir. Spotlessly clean, floral apple blossom and lime aromas lead into a palate of exceptional length and intensity to its citrus and green apple flavours.
Drink Now-2021, with Cold Smoked Salmon, S, 12? alc, Frankland River, WA
www.ferngrove.com.au

Stella Bella Sauvignon Blanc 2006
96 points    $21
Janice McDonald is one of the great winemakers of her generation, thanks to ferocious attention to detail and a top class palate. Light straw-green, voluminous floral (but not the least bit sweaty) aromas lead into a silky smooth, sensual palate with just enough minerally acidity to tighten and freshen the finish.
Drink Now, with Bouillabase, S, 12.5? alc, Margaret River, WA
www.stellabella.com.au

Yalumba Viognier 2005
94 points    $21.95
While not the first to grow and make viognier in Australia (Mornington Peninsula’s Elgee Park has that honour), Yalumba is now its leading practitioner. This wine has abundant aromas and flavours of peach, apricot and spice, with a typical full-bodied texture and structure, but which avoids phenolics on the powerful finish.
Drink Now-2008, with Roast Pork Neck, S, 14.5? alc, Eden Valley , SA
www.yalumba.com

Wilson Vineyard Polish Hill River Riesling 2006
95 points    $22
I often lean towards the DJW Clare Riesling sister of this wine, but this year it was a toss up and the coin came down on the Polish Hill side. Aromas of spice and citrus lead into a finely braced and structured wine built for the long haul. Mineral and citrus flavours run right through the long, dry finish.
Drink 2010-2021, with Tapas of every kind, S, 13? alc, Clare Valley, SA
www.wilsonvineyard.com.au

Howard Park Riesling 2006
95 points    $25
A vertical tasting of 20 vintages of this wine in June 2006 left no one in any doubt about its longevity, even with the hazards of cork. Vibrant and fragrant aromas of apple, passionfruit and lime juice lead into a palate of wonderful intensity and lusciousness balanced by crisp acidity.
Drink Now-2026, with Steamed Blue Lip Mussels, S, 12? alc, Great Southern, WA
www.howardparkwines.com.au

Heggies Vineyard Reserve Riesling 2001
96 points    $27
This marks the 20th vintage of a very distinguished wine, which on this occasion just shaded its sister, the 2001 Pewsey Vale Contours. Glowing green-yellow, it has just entered the prime of what will be a very long life, featuring essence of lime juice without a hint of heaviness, just pure joy.
Drink Now-2015, with Vegetarian Antipasto, S, 14? alc, Eden Valley, SA
www.heggiesvineyard.com

Seppelt Drumborg Vineyard Riesling 2006
96 points    $30
This wine, from the 40-year-old vineyard, has always been great, but this is surely the best yet. Intense lime and passionfruit blossom aromas, spotlessly clean, are followed by a palate of exceptional intensity and concentration, coruscating with spicy lime and grapefruit flavours. A minimum 20-, probably 30-, year future.
Drink Now-2026, with Citrus-Marinated Fish, S, 12.5? alc, Grampians, Vic
www.seppelt.com.au

Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2006
96 points    $34
It is usually a toss up between this and its sister wine from Watervale, the choice one of style rather than quality.  This year the Polish Hill is a clear winner, its bell-clear apple and lime blossom aromas leading into a precise palate with its magical combination of delicacy and extreme length.
Drink Now-2021, with Fresh-cooked Pippies, S, 12.5? alc, Clare Valley, SA
www.grosset.com.au

Eldridge Estate of Red Hill Chardonnay 2004
96 points    $35
Owner/winemaker David Lloyd has developed a first class suite of clonal selection pinot noirs, but in this year, at least, the Chardonnay comes out on top. It is intensely focused, with a seamless fusion of nectarine fruit on both bouquet and palate, then a clean, lingering finish.
Drink Now-2010, with slow-cooked Tasmanian salmon, S, 14? alc, Mornington Peninsula, Vic
www.eldridge-estate.com.au

Mount Pleasant Museum Elizabeth 1998
96 points    $35
A re-release of the standard Elizabeth, which swept all before it at the National Wine Show in Canberra last November. Bright green-yellow, it has a great mix of youth and maturity; citrus driven, with little toast so far developing, it has perfect line and length. Cautious life span prediction due to the cork finish.
Drink Now-2008, with grilled spatchcock with lemon sauce, C, 10? alc, Hunter Valley, NSW
www.mcwilliams.com.au

Shaw & Smith M3 Vineyard Chardonnay 2005
95 points    $35
This classy wine receives the full treatment, hand-picked, whole bunch-pressed, barrel-fermented, lees-stirred and malolactic fermentation. Glowing yellow-green, the winemaker inputs simply serve to frame the fig, melon and nectarine fruit running through to a long finish.
Drink Now-2012, with Milk-fed Veal, S, 13.5? alc, Adelaide Hills, SA
www.shawandsmith.com

Toolangi Vineyards Estate Chardonnay 2004
95 points    $35
Toolangi has lost no time in establishing its reputation, spreading its winemaking contracts across three wineries. This wine is made by Tom Carson at Yering Station, who has skilfully woven stone fruit, melon and barrel ferment inputs into a fine, intense and elegant showcase for Yarra Valley chardonnay.
Drink Now-2012, with pan-fried sweetbreads, C, 13? alc, Yarra Valley, Vic
www.toolangi.com

Hardys Eileen Hardy Chardonnay 2004
96 points    $38
If this wine came from a boutique producer and had won the trophy for Best White Wine at the 2005 National Wine Show, it would be far more expensive. Super-fragrant and flowery, it is fruit, rather than oak, forward, the long and intense palate with sweet citrus and nectarine fruit, plus a light web of creamy notes and fine French oak.
Drink Now-2014, with Suckling Pig, S, 13.5?, Tasmania; Yarra Valley, Vic; Tumbarumba, NSW
www.hardys.com.au

Crawford River Reserve Riesling 2005
96 points    $39
Year-in, year-out, John Thomson makes immaculate riesling in both varietal and Reserve mode. The spotlessly clean bouquet is more immediately floral and aromatic that its (still very good) varietal sister, the palate with distilled lime juice and passionfruit, finishing with great length and perfect acidity.
Drink Now-2018, with Gazpacho, S, 13.5? alc, Henty, Vic
www.crawfordriverwines.com

YarraLoch Stephanie’s Dream Chardonnay 2004
96 points    $40
Investment banker Stephen Wood has three vineyards spread across the Yarra Valley, each matched to specific varieties, chardonnay at a cool Upper Plenty site. This is an exceptionally elegant wine, offering melon, nectarine and grapefruit interwoven with quality French oak and creamy lees characters.
Drink Now-214, with Avocado and Prawn Salad, D, 13? alc, Yarra Valley, Vic
www.yarraloch.com.au

Clyde Park Reserve Chardonnay 2005
96 points    $41
The three hectares of chardonnay on the estate are now over 25 years old, the best parcels going to make this wine. Straw-green, the very complex bouquet has a touch of entirely positive and controlled Burgundian funk, while the intense and tight palate revels in its low alcohol and subtle oak.
Drink Now-2012, with Japanese Smoked Eel, C, 13? alc, Geelong, Vic
www.clydepark.com.au

Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon 1999
97 points    $45
When one includes McWilliam’s Lovedale and Brokenwood ILR Reserve Semillons there has never been a single region, single variety (red or white) wine to accumulate such a vast number of Australian wine show trophies. This is a marvellous wine, still amazingly fresh, with its lemon and lime juice flavours running through the length of its exhilarating palate and its lingering aftertaste.
Drink Now-2009, with Oysters, fresh or tempura, C, 10.3? alc, Hunter Valley, NSW
www.tyrrells.com.au

Chardonnay by Farr 2004
97 points    $50
One of the small handful of wines given such high points over the past 12 months, this is a beautiful wine in every respect, elegant and precise, with superb mouthfeel and length. Gary Farr’s winemaker inputs are so perfectly interwoven through the cool climate, tangy fruit there is nothing more to say.
Drink Now-2011, with Chinese-style steamed fish, C, 13? alc, Geelong, Vic
Tel (03) 5281 1979

Cullen Chardonnay 2004
95 points    $55
Vanya Cullen is a highly disciplined winemaker and biodynamic grapegrower; 70% of this wine was barrel-fermented in new French oak, the same percentage taken through malolactic fermentation. Cashew and oatmeal touches to the bouquet lead into a fine fig and melon palate, the oak absorbed by the fruit and bright acidity.
Drink Now-2015, with Slow-Cooked Pork Belly, S, 14? alc, Margaret River, WA
www.cullenwines.com.au

Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2003
96 points    $91
Part of this vintage was sealed with corks (and showed significant variation), part with screwcaps. This note is the wine with the latter closure, gloriously tight and racey, with a fusion of stone fruit, melon and minerally acidity so complete you barely notice the French oak in which it was fermented.
Drink 2008-2018, with Margaret River wok-fried abalone, C, 14? alc, Margaret River, WA
www.leeuwinestate.com.au

Reds Under $20
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Last year I was forced to lift the bar to $25 because of a lack of meritorious red wines under $20. There was no such problem this year; indeed, I toyed with the idea of dropping the cut off point to $15. Apart from pointing out 10 varieties are represented, I was delighted to include not one, but three, roses, and not to have to apologise for doing so.

Penfolds Rawson’s Retreat Shiraz Cabernet 2006
89 points    $9.95
I suppose there is no point in lamenting the use of a synthetic cork in the wine, as it is an emphatic buy today, drink tonight proposition. It has good colour, with a fresh array of blackberry, cherry and dark chocolate on the light to medium-bodied, supple palate; such oak as there is an incidental extra.
Drink Immediately, with Spaghetti Bolognese, Sy, 13.5? alc, Southeast Australia
www.penfolds.com.au

Angove’s Long Row Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
88 points    $9.99
This was a highly successful red vintage over the whole of Southeast Australia across all price points, and Angove’s did not waste the opportunity. The wine has both structure and blackcurrant varietal character, achieving ample length without undue extraction or reliance on residual sugar.
Drink Now, with Barbeque Lamb Chops, S, 14? alc, Riverland, SA
www.angoves.com.au

Houghton Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2004
88 points    $10.50
One of the most reliable red wine brands at the price, benefiting from grapes grown in many of West Australia’s diverse wine regions, and sophisticated winemaking techniques. Strong red-purple, it has a medium-bodied mix of red and black fruits supported by positive oak flavours and soft tannins.
Drink Now-2009, with Braised Rabbit in Red Wine, TT, 13.5? alc, Western Australia
www.houghton-wines.com.au

Heartland Vineyard Shiraz Viognier 2004
93 points    $11
The property of cardiac surgeon Duncan and wife cardiac scrub nurse Libby Thomson, and nothing to do with Heartland Wines of South Australia. Very good colour, round and mouthfilling even at this (desirable) low alcohol; dark plum and black cherry fruit with a strong push from the unusually high 16% viognier component.
Drink Now-2008, with Marinated Venison, S, 12.4? alc, Hunter Valley, NSW
www.heartlandvineyard.com.au

Kingston Estate Petit Verdot 2004
88 points    $12
Petit verdot struggles for ripeness in Bordeaux, but has no such problems in sunny Australia, let alone the Riverland. This medium-bodied wine has the usual deep colour, but unusual fruit sweetness from a mix of black plum, blueberry and blackberry, finishing with soft tannins and no obvious oak.
Drink Now-2010, with Roast Ox Kidney, C, 14.5% alc, Southeast Australia
www.kingstonestatewines.com

Yalumba Limited Release Sangiovese Rose 2006
93 points    $12
The cheaper the sweeter is undoubtedly a guide to rose style, but (happily) not here. The fresh, light pink colour announces flowery, vibrant cherry blossom aromas, cherry persisting on a palate with excellent length, and balanced by a delicious touch of acidity on the finish.
Drink Now, with Vegetarian Antipasto, S, 13? alc, South Australia
www.yalumba.com

Leasingham Bastion Shiraz Cabernet 2004
93 points    $12.45
What ridiculously good value this wine always represents, never more so than this gold medal winner from the last National Wine Show. It is no shrinking violet, it is true; rather, it is full of rich, chunky, powerful blackberry and blackcurrant fruit, backed by plentiful, ripe tannins.
Drink 2008-2015, with Beef Spare Ribs, C, 13.6? alc, Clare Valley, SA
www.leasingham-wines.com.au

Hardys Oomoo Shiraz 2005
93 points    $12.95
Oomoo means ‘good’ in local Aboriginal tribal dialect, and the retro label was one of the first used by founder Thomas Hardy in the nineteenth century. Its modern reincarnation has been a major success, this vintage an elegant, medium-bodied wine with a ripple of flavours through blackberry, black cherry and dark chocolate, fine tannins and a touch of oak.
Drink Now-2009, with Designer/Home Made Meat Pie, C, 14? alc, McLaren Vale, SA
www.hardys.com.au

Bleasdale Vineyards Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
94 points    $13
The Potts family established Bleasdale over 150 years ago, ingeniously irrigating the vineyard once a year (in winter) by diverting the Bremer River through the property. In best Langhorne Creek tradition, this is a seductively soft, medium-bodied mix of black fruits, ripe tannins and vanilla oak, selling for the proverbial song.
Drink Now-2013, with Braised Lamb Shanks, S, 14? alc, Langhorne Creek, SA
www.bleasdale.com.au

De Bortoli Windy Peak Sangiovese 2005
91 points    $14
The King Valley is a home away from home for many of the Italian grapegrowers and vignerons in the region, the empathy with sangiovese obvious. This wine has great colour for a usually pale variety, the light to medium-boded palate with clear-cut, fresh cherry fruit, and a long finish.
Drink Now, with Vitello Tonnata, S, 14? alc, King Valley, Vic
www.debortoli.com.au

Chalk Hill The Procrastinator Cabernet Franc 2006
90 points    $15
From every bottle sold of this single vineyard wine, 25 cents will go towards habitat reforestation of the rarest cockatoo, the Glossy Black Cockatoo, edging it past the excellent 2005 Tahbilk Cabernet Franc. It has bright and fresh redcurrant, red cherry and raspberry fruits and the finest possible tannin support.
Drink Now, with A Spring Day, S, 14? alc, McLaren Vale, SA
www.chalkhill.com.au

David Hook The Gorge Shiraz 2005
92 points    $16
David Hook is the been everywhere man, from Tyrrell’s to Lake’s Folly to Flying Winemaker in Bordeaux, the Rhone Valley, Spain, Georgia and the US. The wine has exceptional depth of colour, with voluminous aromas of ripe plum and blackberry, and plenty of texture and tannin structure for the spicy black fruit of the palate.
Drink 2008-2018, with Beef Provencale, S 13.5? alc, Hunter Valley, NSW
www.davidhookwines.com.au

Yering Station ED Rose 2006
94 points    $17.50
ED stands for extra dry, and also signals a rose made from pinot noir which has a distinctly European touch to it. Salmon-pink, it is a complex wine, weaving a spicy web around cherry, and strawberry and spice fruit. Well-balanced, it is by no means painfully dry or austere, just serious.
Drink Now, with Duck consommé, S, 12.5? alc, Yarra Valley, Vic
www.yering.com

Arakoon Full Bodied Red Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2004
93 points    $18
Yes, there is a connection between the wine’s name and the confronting label: it is a painting by artist Jennifer England owned by Arakoon winemaker Ray Jones. The wine? It has good colour, abundant black and red fruits, with very good structure and texture, finishing with the ripe tannins typical of the vintage.
Drink Now-2014, with Irish Stew, S, 14.5? alc, McLaren Vale, SA

Stanton & Killeen Shiraz Durif 2004
92 points    $18
Rutherglen produces full-bodied red wines at the best of times; add in the impact of durif (not genetically related to petit verdot, but of similarly deep colour and flavour) and this is the result: massive and full-bodied, saturated with blackberry, licorice and bitter chocolate fruit, but happily restrained tannins.
Drink 2009-2018, with Barbecued Rump Steak, C, 14.5 alc?, Rutherglen, Vic
www.stantonandkilleenwines.com.au

Tatachilla Keystone Shiraz Viognier 2004
94 points    $18
Over the years, Tatachilla’s Keystone has been Mr Reliable, always delivering smooth, supple reds. The advent of viognier has simply upped the ante with this deep purple-red, medium-bodied wine, and its complex, rich and satisfying cascade of black fruits running through to the finish.
Drink Now-2014, with Stir-Fried Beef, S, 14.5? alc, McLaren Vale, SA
www.tatachillawines.com.au

West Cape Howe Tempranillo 2005
94 points    $19
This Spanish variety holds out great promise for a range of climates in Australia, but the most in cooler regions. This wine is the best I have seen, with excellent colour, bright, fresh and lively aromas and flavours in a red fruit spectrum; overall, impressive balance and structure.
Drink Now-2010, with Roast Leg of Baby Kid, S, 14? alc, Denmark, WA
Tel (08) 9848 2959

Charles Melton Rose of Virginia 2006
95 points    $19.95
Until recently Tthere is was such an inbuilt bias against rose by wine writers, judges, retailers and some consumers the points for this wine will come as a shock — too bad, I say.  Vivid fuschia, it is spotlessly clean, offering a sunburst of red fruit flavours ranging from strawberries to cherries to raspberries, with very good balance and fruit sweetness.
Drink Now, with Chinese Cold Cuts, S, 12.5? alc, Barossa Valley, SA
www.charlesmeltonwines.com.au

d’Arenberg d’Arry’s Original Shiraz Cabernet Grenache 2004
94 points    $19.95
d’Arry Osborne turns a hale and hearty 80 in December, and for the last four decades of his life this 50/50 wine has been at the forefront. It is absolutely true to its tradition in every respect, with abundant blackberry, plum cake, spice and chocolate flavours, supported by fine, ripe tannins and restrained oak.
Drink Now-2014, with Flash-fried Kangaroo Fillet Strips, S, 14.5? alc, McLaren Vale, Sa
www.darenberg.com.au

Woodlands Cabernet Merlot 2005
93 points    $19.95
These days son Stuart Watson, with some quiet advice from others, is turning out a range of reds ranging from single barrel selections to its core business, the latter represented by this fresh and elegant wine. A classic cassis blackcurrant mix, it has silky fine tannins, and restrained alcohol and oak.
Drink Now-2010, with Smoked Rack of Lamb, S, 13.5? alc, Margaret River, WA
www.woodlandswines.com

Reds Over $20
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Whatever else guides my choice of the Top 100, it is not finding the cheapest possible wines; this is true of both the under and over $20 sections. This is a guide to the best value wines across a complete spectrum of prices, the $20  marker being as much a matter of convenience in presentation as it is recognition that for many, more than $20 is a no-go area. However, there are some beautiful wines for the special occasion or birthday to be found here.

Yering Station Shiraz Viognier 2005
96 points    $23
Yering Station’s Tom Carson is hot on the heels of Clonakilla’s Tim Kirk for the number one maker of co-fermented shiraz viognier. Deep but brilliant colour leads into a wine flush with blackberry, cherry and spice lifted by the unmistakable perfume of viognier. Ripe, rounded tannins and immaculate oak complete the parcel.
Drink Now-2020, with Wild Mushroom Ravioli, S, 14.5? alc, Yarra Valley, Vic
www.yering.com

Elgo Estate Shiraz 2004
95 points    $25
This wine is made from grapes grown on the warmest of the three discrete vineyards on the 389-hectare grazing property of the Taresch family. Deep, bright purple-red, it has rich, fragrant blackberry and spice aromas, the palate absolutely flooded with layers of juicy black fruits, and ripe tannins guaranteeing a very long life.
Drink 2009-2024, with Braised Ox Tail, S, 14.5? alc, Strathbogie Ranges, Vic
www.elgoestate.com.au

d’Arenberg Laughing Magpie Shiraz Viognier 2004
95 points    $30
Named for Chester Osborne’s daughters when they struggled with ‘kookaburra’, it is a decidedly upmarket version of ‘little critter’ wines aimed at the US. Its 6% viognier component provides all the synergies one could hope for, with a vibrant and juicy palate supported by fine tannins as this truly lovely wine runs through to its long finish.
Drink Now-2024, with Medium-Rare Fillet Mignon, C 14.5? alc, McLaren Vale, SA
www.darenberg.com.au

Glaetzer Bishop Shiraz 2005
94 points    $30
A worthy follow-on to the very good ’04 version of this wine. Rich black fruits, licorice and mocha intermingle on both the bouquet and palate, augmented by touches of dark chocolate. Excellent texture and structure, plus the controlled use of quality oak, are also features of a bold Barossa style.
Drink 2008-2018, with Olive Oil-Marinated Venison, C, 14.5? alc, Barossa Valley, SA
www.glaetzer.com

Peter Howland Parsons River Shiraz 2004
95 points    $33
Peter Howland makes single vineyard wines from opposite sides of the continent using a first class honours degree in oenology and winemaking experience from opposite sides of the world.  Deeply coloured, medium to full-bodied, it has intense spice and blackberry fruit, firm tannins and a long lingering finish.
Drink 2009-2016, with Kangaroo Fillet, C, 14.5? alc, Hunter Valley, NSW
www.peterhowlandwines.com

Chatto Pinot Noir 2005
95 points    $35
Jim Chatto is one of Australia’s rising stars, possessed of an exceptional palate and outstanding winemaking skills. Primarily a Hunter Valley-based contract winemaker, he reaches far and wide for his own label. Vivid purple-red, waves of plum, blackberry and spice fruit are supported by perfect tannins and quality oak in the background.
Drink Now-2012, with Rare Breast of Squab, S, 13? alc, Hunter Valley, NSW
www.chattowines.com.au

Howard Park Scotsdale Shiraz 2004
96 points    $35
Michael Kerrigan is one of those winemakers who spends as much time in the vineyard as he does in the winery, which pays big dividends. Brightly coloured and clean, this is a super-elegant and refined wine with great length and intensity. Spice and black fruits have absorbed the French oak, the tannins perfect.
Drink Now-2024, with Rib of Veal, S, 14.5? alc, Great Southern, WA
www.howardparkwines.com.au

Howard Park Leston Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
96 points    $35
For the record, this has 81% Mount Barker cabernet, 17% Margaret River cabernet, and 2% Margaret River merlot, emphasising the attention to detail in this beautifully crafted wine. Flooded with ripe, gently sweet blackcurrant fruit, it has lovely silky texture and grain on the long palate and finish.
Drink 2009-2024 with Flame-Grilled Lamb Backstrap, S, 14.5? alc, Mount Barker, WA
www.howardparkwines.com.au

Norton Estate Arapiles Run Shiraz 2004
95 points    $35
Norton Estate is in the Western Victoria Zone, six km north of the Grampians GI boundary, effectively in no man’s land. The wine has great colour; rich, ripe blackberry, licorice, spice and pepper aromas and flavours are in abundance, but controlled alcohol helps create finesse.
Drink Now-2016, with Fillet Steak with Green Pepper Sauce, C, 13.8? alc, Western Victoria Zone
Tel (03) 5384 8235

De Bortoli Reserve Pinot Noir 2004
96 points    $40
De Bortoli’s Reserve range is a relatively new addition to its portfolio, and the wines are made in limited quantities. Clear red-purple, the wine has exceptional mouthfeel, structure and complexity; the plummy fruit has a silky texture, with spicy overtones. It has exemplary line and length, and a great finish.
Drink 2009-2014, with Coq au Vin, C, 13? alc, Yarra Valley, Vic
www.debortoli.com.au

Turkey Flat Shiraz 2004
95 points    $40
Along with Wendouree, one of the most serially underpriced wines on the market, drawing on vines, some dating back to 1847. Deeply coloured, it manages to combine complexity and elegance, and easily carries its slightly elevated alcohol; gently spicy blackberry and plum fruit is supported by a web of fine tannins and subtle French oak.
Drink 2009-2019, with Medium Rare Rib of Beef, C, 15? alc, Barossa Valley, SA
www.turkeyflat.com.au

Taltarni Heathcote Shiraz 2004
96 points    $44
The (relatively) new team at Taltarni has not hesitated to look beyond the boundaries of its very substantial vineyard holdings in the Pyrenees, including Shiraz from Heathcote. This densely coloured wine has clean blackberry aromas, and is rich, supple and round in the mouth; it is essentially fruit-driven, but the tannins and oak are there, the moderate alcohol sheer pleasure.
Drink 2008-2015, with Beef Provencale, C, 14? alc, Heathcote, Vic
www.taltarni.com.au

Bremerton Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
96 points    $44.95
In February 2004 sisters Rebecca (winemaker) and Lucy (marketing) took over control of the family business, determined to lift its profile (they have). The wine still has great colour; supple and silky smooth flavours of blackcurrant, chocolate and quality oak flow seamlessly across the palate into the finish and aftertaste.
Drink 2007-2017, with Roast Saltbush Lamb, C, 14? alc, Langhorne Creek, SA
www.bremerton.com.au

Mr Riggs Shiraz 2004
96 points    $45
One-time Wirra Wirra winemaker Ben Riggs has his finger in many pies these days as a contract maker and consultant, plus joint ventures, and his own label Mr Riggs. Clean, rich fruit aromas lead into lush red and black fruits with a juicy twist giving lively mouthfeel and a delicious finish.
Drink Now-2014, with Slow-Braised Ox Cheek, P, 15? alc, McLaren Vale, SA
www.mrriggs.com.au

Penfolds St Henri Shiraz 2002
96 points    $69.95
If this isn’t the best St Henri yet, it’s so close it doesn’t matter. It is a medium-bodied wine which was tailor-made for the very cool conditions and low yields of the top class 2002 vintage; intense, gently savoury, black fruits run imperiously through a long, perfectly balanced palate, finishing with fine tannins, the oak largely unseen.
Drink Now-2020, with Osso Bucco, C, 14.5? alc, Barossa Valley, SA
www.penfolds.com.au

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Michael Shiraz 2003
95 points    $79.99
When the Michael Shiraz was reincarnated after a gap of almost 40 years (the first vintage was the freakishly great 1955) it tended to go over the top. This vintage, while rich, luscious and velvety, is far more restrained, with blackberry and plum fruit woven through quality oak and fine, ripe tannins.
Drink Now-2018, with Hare in Red Wine Sauce, C, 13? alc, Coonawarra, SA
www.wynns.com.au

Balnaves of Coonawarra The Tally Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
96 points    $80
The many awards given to winemaker Pete Bissell and the polished wines he makes are fully justified. The Tally stands at the very top of the Balnaves tree, with an extra degree of fragrance which most other wines from the vintage (Balnaves included) don’t have; similarly, while full-bodied, it also has a unique dimension of elegance. Over time, the high quality French oak will disappear into the wine.
Drink 2009-22025, with Butterfly Leg of Lamb, C, 14.5? alc, Coonawarra, SA
www.balnaves.com.au

Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz 2004
96 points    $100
Within the dictates of the ever-unpredictable summer weather in the Hunter Valley, the style of this icon has been polished over the years, shining brightly in ideal vintages such as 2004. Of brilliant clarity, this medium-bodied wine has perfect texture and structure to its array of black and red cherry fruits, finishing with fine ripe tannins. Carefully judged oak completes a wine of real finesse — and low alcohol.
Drink 2009-2029, with Grilled Calf’s Liver, Italian style, S, 12.5? alc, Hunter Valley, NSW
www.brokenwood.com.au

Wolf Blass Black Label Shiraz Cabernet Malbec 2002
96 points    $125
This is the 30th vintage of Black Label, which has seen a significant change of style over the years, but which is now better than ever. Very deep in colour, it is flooded with opulent, multi-layered fruits in a silky, sensual, supple texture, with seamless oak and tannins. Released with a choice of cork or screwcap; this note is for the latter version.
Drink Now-2022, with Game Pie, S, 15 alc, Barossa Valley, SA
www.wolfblass.com.au

Penfolds Grange 2001
97 points    $400
Grange usually includes a percentage of cabernet sauvignon, as little as 1%. In 1952, ’63 and ’99 it was 100% shiraz, but from multi regions. The 2001 is the first 100 Barossa shiraz, 50% from the Kalimna Vineyard, a majestic wine still unfolding in bottle, with amazing depth and a sumptuously rich tapestry of black fruits, licorice and chocolate/mocha fruit, oak and tannins as powerful as they should be.
Leave it in the cellar, drink 2011-2030, C, 14.5° alc, Barossa Valley, SA
www.penfolds.com.au

Australian Sparkling Wines
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The market for Australian sparkling wine is as competitive as it is for table wines; that prince of sparkling wines, Hardys Arras, costs less today than it did three years ago. This overall group is always a difficult one, the choice of eight Australians and 12 champagnes being traditional but admittedly arbitrary. The striking feature about the 52 champagnes which arrived by the tasting date (another 20 did not, including some of the big names) is the sharp increase in prices for the grand marques, and the proliferation of small producers with wines at prices not far from the NVs of some of the grand marques.

Kamberra Meeting Place 2004
89 points; $15
A blend of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier grown in the cold climate of Tumbarumba. The relative youth of the wine is part of its entirely fruit-driven charm; the bouquet has fragrant lemon zest and spice aromas and the fresh, crisp and long palate is a seamless replay of those aromas. Another instance of Master sparkling winemaker Ed Carr pulling the right strings.
www.kamberra.com.au

Gapsted Ballerina Canopy Chardonnay Pinot NV
94 points    $30
This is one from left field, but a very good one. It has fine and persistent mousse, with gently creamy surroundings for the nectarine and citrus fruit courtesy of three years on yeast lees prior to disgorgement. The complex regional and varietal sources have produced a very elegant and perfectly balanced wine. Here the skill is that of Michael Cope-Williams, whose father’s eponymous winery is in the Macedon Ranges.
Macedon Ranges, King Valley and Tumbarumba
www.gapstedwines.com.au

Yarrabank Cuvee 2001
94 points; $35
The wine spends four years on yeast lees prior to disgorgement, and none of the components of pinot noir and chardonnay undergo malolactic fermentation,. Aanother year in bottle after disgorgement completinges the maturation process. It has excellent mousse, then a nuts-and-brioche backdrop to a pure and long fruit line;. Pperfectly balanced acidity ensures great length.
www.yering.com

Domaine Chandon Vintage Brut 2003
95 points; $37
Has 49% chardonnay, 46% pinot noir and 5% pinot meunier grown in six regions in southern Victoria and in Tasmania, with 30 separate parcels of base wines blended, the aged on lees for 30 months prior to disgorgement. Fragrant aromas of fresh citrus and brioche lead into a gently nutty/creamy palate with citrus and melon fruit.
www.yarra-valley.net.au/domaine_chandon

Domaine Chandon ZD Blanc de Blancs 2003
94 points; $37
This takes sparkling winemaking back to deceptive simplicity: zero dosage when disgorged after 30 months on lees, and 100% chardonnay as the varietal base. Bright straw green, with fine, persistent mousse and great balance, it flies in the face of the belief that zero dosage can only work with aged wines.
www.yarra-valley.net.au/domaine_chandon

Stonier Cuvee 2000
94 points    $45
A chardonnay and pinot noir-based wine of restraint and delicacy not often encountered in mainland Australian sparkling wines. Pale green-straw, it has particularly good mousse; overall, it is very tight and fine, the crystalline purity emphasised by thet eh low dosage, the flavours in the citrus (rather than the red fruit) range. It will benefit from further time on cork — say five years.
www.stoniers.com.au

Hardys Arras Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2000
96 points    $49
This quite beautiful wine sits firmly at the top of the Hardys sparkling wine tree, although the lower price than the first vintages (1995 and ’96) shows how competitive the market is. Pale green-straw, it is marked by the precision of the bouquet, and the explosively intense palate ranging through the mineral, nectarine, green apple and citrus flavours; a remarkable combination of power and grace.
Tasmania
www.hardys.com.au

Primo Estate Joseph Sparkling Red
95 points; $50
As usual, has a portion of reserve wine dating back to the 1960s and ’70s, and spent two years on lees prior to its recent disgorgement. Has massively complex confit plum, spice and licorice aromas, then a very rich multi-flavoured palate, some oak phenolics neatly balanced by moderate dosage.  It is hard to imagine a more complex wine in this style.
www.primoestate.com.au

Top 100 – 2005

Whites Under $20
Whites Over $20
Reds Under $25
Reds Over $25
Australian Sparkling Wine

Key to closure abbreviation – C Cork, QC Quality Cork, D Diam, P ProCork, S Screwcap, SY Synthetic, TT Twin-Top Cork, Z Zork

Whites Under $20
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The excellent 2005 vintage dominates the selection, as do screwcaps. The wines come from an original field of 254 wines, shortlisted after tasting to 56 wines, and a final selection of 17.

Yalumba Oxford Landing Sauvignon Blanc 2005    88 points    $7.95
Arguably the most difficult white variety to grow well in the Riverland, it is equally arguable that this wine is ultimate testament to the quality of the 2005 vintage. In an admittedly light frame, it offers clear varietal fruit in a tropical/passionfruit spectrum, with a crisp, well balanced finish.
Drink now S 11? alc Riverland, SA
www.yalumba.com

Orlando Jacob’s Creek Chardonnay 2005    90 points    $9.99
I tasted this with some care against most of its big name competition, including yellowtail and Lindemans Bin 65, and it emerged the clearest of winners. The bouquet has aromatic stone fruit and grapefruit, the distinctly elegant palate long and balanced (just a whisper of oak) and a lingering, dry finish.
Drink now QC 12.5? alc  Southeast Australia
www.orlandowines.com

St Hallett Poacher’s Blend 2005    91 points    $12.50
The blend is in fact of unwooded semillon and sauvignon blanc. Wines such as this explain the enormous popularity of this synergistic marriage, coupled with keen pricing. It has attractive gooseberry and tropical fruit aromas, the flavours filling the mouth in seductively brilliant fashion, and without cloying.
Drink now S 12? alc Barossa/Eden Valleys, SA
www.sthallett.com.au

De Iuliis Semillon 2005    94 points    $14
Performed very well at this year’s Hunter Valley Wine Show, besting many of its peers in a large and competitive class. Bright and clear yellow-green, it has the power of the vintage, replete with masses of gently ripened lemon/lime fruit, braced by the excellent acidity so much part of the Hunter style.
Drink now-2012 Z 11.5? alc Hunter Valley, NSW
www.dewine.com.au

Tahbilk Marsanne 2005    93 points    $14.25
A recent vertical tasting of marsanne at Tahbilk back to 1974 showed (sporadic oxidation to one side) just how well this wine can age, the ’79 still great – and now there is the screwcap. Fragrant, honeysuckle aroma mixes with the passionfruit of the long and vibrant palate. Lovely acidity wraps a bow around the parcel.
Drink now-2015 S 13.5? alc Nagambie Lakes, Vic
www.tahbilk.com.au

Primo Estate La Biondina Colombard 2005    93 points    $14.50
Yes, I know this wine makes the Top 100 almost every year, but it’s impossible to resist, and if it were to miss out, one of Joe Grilli’s reds would force its way in. Vibrantly fresh grapefruit, stone fruit and mineral aromas and flavours lead through to an amazingly zesty finish and aftertaste.
Drink now S 12? alc Adelaide Plains, SA
www.primoestate.com.au

Sticks Chardonnay 2004    93 points    $15
Former Aussie rules footballer-turned-winemaker Rob (Sticks) Dolan, brought the wheel full circle when he (and others) bought, and renamed Sticks, the Yarra Ridge winery where he was once the winemaker. This is a great example of unpretentious Yarra Valley chardonnay style, fruit-driven with nectarine, honeydew and citrus, line and length its foundation.
Drink now-2008 S 13? alc Yarra Valley, Vic
www.sticks.com.au

Tyrrell’s Lost Block Semillon 2005    95 points    $15
Tyrrell’s is unchallenged as Australia’s foremost semillon specialist, with at least five different wines of varying ages available at any one time, all great value. It offers fragrant mineral and lemon blossom aromas, the palate a masterly exercise in welding delicacy with abundant flavour, and, above all else, length.
Drink now-2020 S 11? alc Hunter Valley, NSW
www.tyrrells.com.au

West Cape Howe Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2005    94 points    $16
The undoubted skills and long regional experience of owner/winemaker Gavin Berry (and his team) shine through in all the West Cape Howe wines. A spotlessly clean, fine and harmonious mix of grapefruit, gooseberry and passionfruit on the bouquet and palate is braced by a touch of minerality woven through the long finish.
Drink now-2007 S 12? alc Great Southern, WA
Tel (08) 9848 2959

McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon 2000    94 points     $18
If only, I muttered, these mature semillons had screwcaps, choosing this above the better but more expensive 1999 Lovedale because the cost of an oxidised bottle isn’t such a disaster. Glowing yellow-green, it still has delicacy, combined with honey, lime and a touch of toast, and archetypal acidity and length. Four gold medals.
Drink now-2010 C 11.5? alc Hunter Valley, NSW
www.mcwilliams.com.au

Paringa Estate Peninsula Chardonnay 2004    94 points    $18
Master craftsman and one-time school teacher Lindsay McCall can’t put a foot wrong with the Paringa wines, nor with their prices. This is a very complex wine, proclaiming wild yeast and barrel ferment inputs into ripe nectarine and citrus fruit via notes of toast and cashews, the balance impeccable.
Drink now-2009 S 14.5? alc Mornington Peninsula, Vic
www.paringaestate.com.au

McWilliam’s Regional Collection Eden Valley Riesling 2003    95 points    $18
It was a toss up between this and the 2004 Clare Valley Riesling under the same banner. This earned its place for the way it has developed over the past 18 months. Glowing yellow-green, a potent lime, lemon, toast and kerosene bouquet herald a palate of utterly impressive intensity and length.
Drink now-2010 S 11.5? alc Eden Valley, SA
www.mcwilliams.com.au

Ashbrook Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2005    95 points    $19
Here the choice lay between this wine and the equally good semillon from the fastidious winemakers, brothers Tony and Brian Devitt. The spotlessly clean bouquet has unusually super-intense and powerful varietal character, the palate flooded with ripe gooseberry and passionfruit, yet without a trace of phenolics.
Drink now-end 2006 S 14? alc Margaret River, WA
Tel (08) 9755 6262

Brookland Valley Verse 1 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2005    95 points    $19
In a postscript to its selection in the Top 100, this wine won a trophy at the October 2005 Qantas Western Australia Wine Show for best unwooded blend. The bouquet has a clean, zesty, vibrant mix of herbaceous and tropical fruit, the palate driven by crunchy, lemony acidity on its finish giving outstanding length.
Drink now-2007 S 13? alc Margaret River, WA
www.brooklandvalley.com.au

Wilson Vineyard DJW Riesling 2005    95 points    $19.50
This is the Watervale sister to the Polish Hill river wine made each year by David Wilson, father/founder Dr John Wilson in the background. A model of consistency from year to year, intense spice, mineral and lime aromas flow into a palate with great finesse, long, fine and sculptured.
Drink now-2015 S 12.5? alc Clare Valley, SA
www.wilsonvineyard.com.au

Gibraltar Rock Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2004    94 points    $20
I don’t know why or how this wine was not submitted prior to this Top 100 tasting, but it is proof-positive that semillon-dominant blends from this region are not one-day wonders. Totally delicious, fresh and lively, it has finely balanced passionfruit and green apple flavours running through to a long finish.
Drink now-2007 S 13? alc Great Southern, WA
Tel (08) 9481 2856

O’Leary Walker Polish Hill River Riesling 2005    95 points    $20
David O’Leary and Nick Walker had jointly spent over 30 years as winemakers for big companies before they bravely took the plunge into the icy waters of the small winery business. This wonderfully fragrant and floral, lime blossom accented wine, has great mouthfeel, balance, and a lingering finish.
Drink now-2015 S 12.5? alc Clare Valley, SA
www.olearywalkerwines.com

Whites Over $20
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Here 200 wines were submitted, shortlisted to 52 after tasting, then to 18 selected. While 2005 provided more wines than any other vintage, there is a smattering of mature whites, some back to 1999. Chardonnay is the dominant player.

Diamond Valley Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2004    95 points    $22
This is the blue label version made from contract-grown grapes, as opposed to the white estate label; both wines show finesse which has passed from father David to sone James. Bright straw-green, very fragrant nectarine, grapefruit and lime fruit runs through a lively, fresh and long palate, oak a background murmur.
Drink now-2014 S 13.5? alc Yarra Valley, Vic
www.diamondvalley.com.au

Howard Park MadFish Chardonnay 2004    95 points    $22
Eeny, meeny, miny mo, how many of the Howard Park wines do I select? All, if space permitted. Barrel-fermented and matured, this brightly coloured, fragrant and stylish chardonnay remains fruit-driven notwithstanding the barrel inputs. Long and crisp, it has overtones of chablis at a quarter of the price.
Drink now or whenever S 13.5? alc Great Southern, WA
www.howardparkwines.com.au

Geoff Weaver Lenswood Sauvignon Blanc 2005    95 points    $23
There is ample evidence to show the cooler parts of the Adelaide Hills are the most consistent producers of high quality sauvignon blanc in Australia. Here a spotlessly clean and fresh bouquet and a palate which is the epitome of elegance, with haunting passionfruit blossom characters, has a wondrously lingering finish and aftertaste.
Drink now S 13.5? alc Adelaide Hills, SA
www.geoffweaver.com.au

Peter Lehmann Reserve Riesling 2001    96 points    $24
Given the illustrious history of Lehmann reserve rieslings, and the quality of this wine, I am curious about the price, but shouldn’t look a gift horse in the mouth. Bright green-yellow, flowery, lightly toasty, lime juice aromatics lead into a brilliantly incisive lime juice palate, finishing with lovely slippery acidity.
Drink now-2015 S 12? alc Barossa Valley, SA
www.peterlehmannwines.com

Shaw & Smith Sauvignon Blanc 2005    95 points    $25
New Zealand has embraced the screwcap with the same fervour as Clare Valley has for its riesling, but for its sauvignon blanc, and they were right to do so. Punchy, aromatic, gooseberry, green apple and passionfruit aromas and flavours permeate a bright, breezy and deliciously crisp wine.
Drink now S 13? alc Adelaide Hills, SA
www.shawandsmith.com

T’Gallant Tribute Pinot Gris 2004    95 points    $27
The back label says the aroma is of wild honey; I am still to work out what honey isn’t wild, but the descriptor is spot-on. The bouquet exudes honey with abandon, running through strongly to the flavours of the palate, which adds to the impact with a touch of viscosity. Improbably compelling.
Drink now-2008 S 14.5? alc Mornington Peninsula, Vic
www.tgallant.com.au

Seppelt Drumborg Riesling 2005    97 points    $30
A gigantic tussle between this and neighbour’s 2004 Crawford River Riesling, both celestial examples of the ultra-cool climate of the region, price (not quality) prevailing. A wonderfully delicate, pure, flowery bouquet is followed by a beautiful and intense, yet feather-light, array of bright and crisp flavours.
Drink now-2025 S 13? alc Henty, Vic
www.seppelt.com.au

Penfolds Cellar Reserve Eden Valley Gewurztraminer 200596 points    $30
Now this is a rare beast, and quite unexpected, even though the estate Woodbury Vineyard has been home to the variety for many years. Crystal clear spice, musk, lychee and rose petal aromas are all there, the excellent palate retaining the flavours promised by the bouquet, yet avoiding phenolics.
Drink now (or later) S 13.5? alc Eden Valley, SA
www.penfolds.com.au

Grosset Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2005    96 points    $30
At the last moment I decided to choose this wine rather than the as-always brilliant Grosset Rieslings (or, for that matter, his 2004 Chardonnay). Intense herb, spice and asparagus aromas foreshadow a beautifully flavoured and structured palate, which progressively builds fruit intensity all the way through to the long finish.
Drink now-2009 S 13? alc Clare Valley/Adelaide Hills, SA
www.grosset.com.au

Leo Buring Leonay Eden Valley Riesling DW117 2005    96 points    $33
The Leo Buring Riesling legacy of John Vickery (still very much alive, but these days with Richmond Grove) is on a par with that of Max Schubert. Spice, mineral, lime and apple aromas lead into a palate of great finesse, the special – almost sweet – regional lime juice caressing the mouth.
Drink now-2020 S 13? alc Eden Valley, SA
www.leoburing.com.au

Hardys Eileen Hardy Chardonnay 2002    96 points    $38
This blend from Tasmania, the Yarra Valley, Tumbarumba and the Adelaide Hills has three trophies and five gold medals from the best Australian wine shows to its credit, making the price incomprehensible. The nectarine and citrus-tinged fruit, barrel and malolactic fermentation inputs are all part of a wine evolving with extreme grace.
Drink now-2012 S 13? alc  Southeast Australia
www.hardys.com.au

Cape Mentelle Chardonnay 2004    96 points    $40
As befits its regional provenance and fully mature vines, always from the top drawer. The usual winemaking tricks, with barrel fermentation and nine months on lees, result in a potent, complex and powerful wine. A delightful streak of minerally acidity holds the generous nectarine and melon fruit together, the positive oak in balance.
Drink now-2012 S 14? alc Margaret River, WA
www.capementelle.com.au

Tarrawarra Estate Chardonnay 2003    96 points    $40
Around 1500 cases of this wine were made from the mature vineyards of the estate. Clare O’Halloran has brought a lighter touch to the winemaking, but without sacrificing the complexity of barrel fermentation and so forth evident here. Melon and stone fruit are at the heart of a wine with great length, line and drive.
Drink now-2013 S 13.5? alc Yarra Valley, Vic
www.tarrawarra.com.au

Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon 1999    97 points    $40
It wasn’t the two trophies and four gold medals which edged this past numerous other contenders so much as the hope Tyrrell’s screens each bottle with a photospectrometer to weed out oxidised bottles. Superb colour, almost floral lemon juice aromas, and a brilliantly fresh, fine, long and lingering palate mark a perfect bottle.
Drink now-2010 C 10.3? alc Hunter Valley, NSW
www.tyrrells.com.au

Yalumba The Virgilius Eden Valley Viognier 2004    96 points    $50
The top tier in the Yalumba viognier stable, reflecting the greater experience Yalumba has than the increasingly numerous players with this fashionable variety. Spotlessly clean peach and apricot aromas flow into an ultra-complex and supple palate with no adverse impact whatsoever from the alcohol. A brilliant exercise in controlled power.
Drink now-2007 S 14.5? alc Eden Valley, SA
www.yalumba.com

Pierro Chardonnay 2003    96 points    $65
When I first tasted this wine 12 months ago, its potential was obvious, but I was blown away by the way it has developed. Normally Mike Peterkin’s chardonnays take no prisoners, but his utterly delicious wine has great restraint, beautiful balance and mouthfeel, stone fruit and quality oak seamlessly woven together.
Drink now-2013 S 13.5? alc Margaret River, WA
Tel (08) 9755 6220

Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2002    97 points    $80
Long live the King, and there is no death here. This vintage shows yet again why this is the best chardonnay in Australia. It effortlessly shows the flawless and seamless balance and integration of all the winemaking techniques without imperilling the supremely elegant stone fruit, citrus and melon running through a seemingly endless palate. So there.
Drink now-2015 C 14.5? alc Margaret River, WA
www.leeuwinestate.com.au

Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay 2002    96 points    $120
Yattarna is the would-be King, the Prince-in-waiting, but I fear the wait is going to be a long one. However, this wine shows no signs of falling over as some of its predecessors have done. White peach and citrus fruit has surged through the complex, toasty barrel ferment characters which have been part of the wine since the outset, the finish long and cleansing.
Drink now-2012 C 13.5? alc  Southeast Australia
www.penfolds.com.au

Reds Under $25
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In the interests of quality, and because using the $25 dividing line led to a nigh-on equal number of reds in each group, I reverted to $25 this year (last year $20). The 339 wines gave rise to a shortlist of 84, and a final selection of 19.

De Bortoli Deen Vat 8 Shiraz 2004    90 points    $10
This is an absurdly good wine at the price, which apparently spent 12 months in oak, helping explain the quality (but not the price). The abundance of black fruits punch way above their weight, as does the structure. Moreover, that oak is not just to be found on the back label, but in the wine.
Drink now-2007 QC 13.5? alc Riverina, NSW
Tel (02) 6963 0171

Yalumba Y Series Shiraz Viognier 2004    89 points    $11.95
Yes, there is a premium attached to shiraz viognier blends, and they are very hard to find under $12. Yalumba is a dab hand with this blend, the fragrant and lifted bouquet in typical style. A light to medium-bodied palate has very pleasant, sweet red fruits in abundance, oak and tannins incidental.
Drink now-2006 TT 14? alc Southeast Australia
www.yalumba.com

Hardys Oomoo Shiraz 2004    94 points    $12.95
This represents even more awesome value than the De Bortoli Shiraz. It may be a long time before another sub $13 wine receives 94 points, but given prior vintages of Oomoo, it isn’t as surprising as it might be. The wine has exceptionally rich and luscious red and black fruits, the tannins ripe, and well-balanced and integrated. Will repay cellaring.
Drink now-2014 C 14? alc  Southeast Australia
www.hardys.com.au

Moondah Brook Cabernet Sauvignon 2002    92 points    $14.50
Moondah Brook regularly comes up with wines such as this, doubtless reflecting its viticultural tentacles reaching every region of Western Australia. A medium-bodied, clean, fresh, fruit-forward style, it has clear-cut varietal definition from start to finish, ranging from redcurrant to mulberry to blackcurrant. Soft, supple tannins and controlled oak finish the package.
Drink now S 14.5? alc Southern WA
www.moondahbrook.com.au

Morris Rutherglen Shiraz    94 points    $14.99
The usual story is rooster to feather duster. In this instance, it is the reverse, a wine which was (to change metaphors) originally an ugly duckling, after three years in bottle becoming something quite special. Dense, almost thick, rich and concentrated black fruits ooze from every pore; magically, the wine is not over-extracted nor too tannic.
Drink now-2015 S 13.5? alc Rutherglen, Vic
www.morriswines.com

Pothana The Gorge Shiraz 2003    93 points    $15
It doesn’t matter where Hunter shiraz from this top vintage sits on the price totem pole, you can rest assured the value will be great – here, very great. It is a wonderfully rich and textured wine, with abundant black fruits and ripe tannins, oak somewhere in the background. It will age well if you can keep your hands off it.
Drink now-2013 S 13.5? alc Hunter Valley, NSW
www.davidhookwines.com.au

Wirra Wirra Scrubby Rise 2004    94 points    $15
Wow, is this or is it not, sensational value? My answer is obvious for this blend of shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot. Densely coloured, it has an archetypal regional mix of black fruits and bitter chocolate, splendidly rich and complete, simply oozing flavour, and will be very long lived.
Drink now-2020 S 14.5? alc McLaren Vale, SA
www.wirrawirra.com

Stonehaven Hidden Sea Cabernet Sauvignon 2001    93 points    $15.99
This wine won gold medals at both Adelaide and Canberra Shows last year, medals which carry more weight than all other shows except Sydney. Winemaker Sue Bell has avoided the tannin trap, this is an appealing exercise in harmony and balance, with ripe blackcurrant and mulberry fruit, a twist of oak and soft tannins.
Drink now-2011 C 13.6? alc Limestone Coast, SA
www.stonehavenvineyards.com.au

Hoddles Creek Estate Pinot Noir 2004    91 points    $16.99
A recent arrival in the Yarra Valley, gaining instant recognition for young winemaker Franco D’Anna when his 2003 Chardonnay won the Chardonnay Trophy at the 2004 Victorian Wines Show. Light to medium-bodied, clean and fresh, it has attractive plum and red fruits in a supple, silky smooth and long palate.
Drink now-2009 S 13.2? alc Yarra Valley, Vic
www.hoddlescreekestate.com.au

Temple Bruer Shiraz Malbec 2002    93 points    $17
Some may be prepared to simply label a wine such as this ‘organic’, leaving consumers to draw whatever conclusions they wish. David Bruer in fact correctly labels it ‘organically grown’. Plum, mulberry, herbs and spice run through the bouquet and strongly structured palate, supported by a nice touch of sweet oak and ripe tannins.
Drink now-2017 S 14? alc Langhorne Creek, SA
www.templebruer.com.au

Yering Station Rose ED 2005    94 points    $17.50
Quite complex winemaking techniques are used to produce this pinot noir-based rose, selling as fast in the United Kingdom (at full tote odds) as it does here. Salmon-tinged colour, it has spicy strawberry and plum aromas, the elegant and textured palate having more length than other top-end roses.
Drink now S 13? alc Yarra Valley, Vic
www.yering.com

Charles Melton Rose of Virginia 2005    94 points    $19.90
After years in the wilderness, rose has become the flavour of the month, indeed day, in all corners of the globe, Australia no exception. Vivid, deep fuchsia, this has real depth to its plum and raspberry fruit, yet is not heavy and certainly not sweet. Has attitude.
Drink now S 13? alc Barossa Valley, SA
www.charlesmeltonwines.com.au

d’Arenberg d’Arrys Original Shiraz Grenache 2003    94 points    $19.95
d’Arry Osborne was the first to give grenache and shiraz grenache wines the standing they deserved, lighting the fire in 1961. Bright and clear in colour, the fragrant bouquet bursts into full-throated song on the light to medium-bodied palate with a glorious mix of spice, raspberry and blackberry fruit.
Drink now-2015 C 15? alc McLaren Vale, SA
www.darenberg.com.au

Woodlands Cabernet Merlot 2004    94 points    $20
Once again, Woodlands has made some superb single variety, micro super-cuvees, but overall this wine best displays the quality and value offered by the Watson family. Brilliantly clear purple-red, this medium-bodied wine has a seductive mix of classis, blackcurrant and black cherry, great balance and fine tannins.
Drink now-2010 C 14? alc Margaret River, WA
www.woodlands-wines.com

Taltarni Three Monks Cabernet Merlot 2003    94 points    $21.20
The breath of fresh air at Taltarni, and its willingness to look beyond its large estate vineyards to other premium regions of Victoria, has paid off. Strong red-purple, the wine abounds with ripe, but not jammy, blackcurrant, cassis and mulberry fruit, the medium-bodied palate rounded off by soft tannins and positive oak.
Drink now-2013 C 14? alc Central Victoria
www.taltarni.com.au

Diamond Valley Vineyards Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2004    93 points    $24
The conditions in the Yarra throughout 2004 were absolutely perfect, arguably too much so, for the berries were big, the yields high. Fears of dilute pinot did not materialise; instead, supple, smooth and graceful wines such as this, with fragrant, spicy red fruits, and a long, lingering finish, were the outcome.
Drink now-2009 S 13? alc Yarra Valley, Vic
www.diamondvalley.com.au

Hackersley Merlot 2004    95 points    $24
A group of university friends decided in later life it would be cheaper to grow their own wine than buy it, which they now know was a terrible mistake. This wine must be some recompense; strongly coloured, it has substantial texture and structure, replete with dark red fruits, black olive and spice, bang on the varietal button.
Drink now-2011 C 14? alc Geographe, WA
www.hackersley.com.au

Chalkers Crossing Hilltops Cabernet Sauvignon 2004    95 points    $24
As always, there were Chalkers Crossing wines knocking on every door, including some beautiful prior vintages. Sommeliers take note; this is a serious producer. This wine has absolutely classic, cool-grown cabernet sauvignon fruit definition, with perfectly balanced cassis, blackcurrant and cedary oak supported by fine, ripe tannins.
Drink now-2019 C 14.5? alc Hilltops, NSW
www.chalkerscrossing.com.au

Ferngrove Majestic Cabernet Sauvignon 2003    95 points    $25
First tasted seven months ago, it looked very good; now, it is even better, with felicitous weight and mouthfeel. The colour is as vibrant and strong as ever, the clear blackcurrant, cassis, olive and earth in a firm, well structured, medium-bodied palate. Precisely articulated cabernet expression.
Drink now-2015 C 14? alc Frankland River, WA
www.ferngrove.com.au

Reds Over $25
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Here we come to the big end of town: 316 starters were reduced to a long shortlist of 116, and somehow this became 27, an agonising process. All of these lovely wines deserve their inclusion, but there were many equally meritorious wines which missed out.

Stella Bella Cabernet Merlot 2003    95 points    $26
All the strikingly labelled Stella Bella and Suckfizzle wines made by Janice McDonald have a vibrancy and sense of style befitting the labels. Bright purple-red, this immaculately crafted wine has spotless cassis and blackcurrant aromas and flavours; the tannins are super-fine and ripe, the French oak the same sure touch.
Drink now-2013 C 14? alc Margaret River, WA
www.stellabella.com.au

Clyde Park Vineyard Shiraz 2004    95 points    $27
Within a matter of days, I tasted this wine under quite different circumstances, but with virtually identical notes and points. Vibrantly coloured, it has a spotless array of black cherry, blackberry and plum aromas and flavours. The medium-bodied palate has great focus and balance, supported by high quality oak.
Drink now-2015 S 14? alc Geelong, Vic
www.clydepark.com.au

Voyager Estate Shiraz 2004    95 points    $29.95
One of four wines from Voyager all deserving a place in the Top 100, with impressive quality and value for money. Bright, deep colour suggests the fragrant, spicy black fruits aromas which indeed follow; the palate has concentrated, sweet blackberry and licorice fruit, and exemplary oak and tannins.
Drink now-2019 S 14? alc Margaret River, WA
www.voyagerestate.com.au

Pondalowie Vineyards Shiraz Viognier 2003    94 points    $30
Dominic and Krystina Morris accumulated world-wide winemaking experience before they established Pondalowie, producing finely crafted, medium-bodied red wines. This wine has developed beautifully over the past year, offering a seamless fusion between the shiraz and five per cent viognier. A floral bouquet is followed by supple, silky mouthfeel to its red fruits.
Drink now-2013 S 14.8? alc Bendigo, Vic
www.pondalowie.com.au

Farr Rising Pinot Noir 2004    94 points    $33
There’s By Farr (father Gary Farr, once of Bannockburn) and Farr Rising, ‘son of a gun’ Nick Farr’s label – their play on words, not mine. Never mind, this is a lovely pinot, with very good texture and structure; long, evenly distributed tannins lie behind the plummy varietal fruit, supported by exactly the right amount of oak.
Drink now-2009 D 13.5? alc Geelong, Vic
Tel (03) 5281 1979

Chatto Wines Shiraz 2003    95 points    $35
Jim Chatto’s major occupation is part of the contract winemaking team at Monarch Winemaking Services. An up and coming show judge, he has an excellent palate. This is a super-elegant and refined style, with spotless, clean cherry and blackberry fruit; fine, silky tannins give the wine great length.
Drink now-2015 S 14? alc Hunter Valley, NSW
www.chattowines.com.au

Howard Park Leston Cabernet Sauvignon 2003    96 points    $35
Yet another outstanding cabernet sauvignon/cabernet blend from the Margaret River region, and another irresistible wine from Howard Park. It has brilliant colour, the bouquet spotlessly clean, and it floods the mouth with blackcurrant fruit and whisps of mocha and chocolate.
Drink now-2018 S 13.5? alc Margaret River, WA
www.howardparkwines.com.au

Murdock Cabernet Sauvignon 2000    97 points    $40
When first tasted three years ago, not long after it had been bottled, I wrote “will become a classic in time”, but didn’t dream it would emerge so magnificently. It delivers a sensuous cascade of luscious, ripe blackcurrant fruit around a base of perfect tannins and quality French oak. Gloriously mouthfilling.
Drink now-2015 C 13.5? alc Coonawarra, SA
www.murdockwines.com

Turkey Flat Shiraz 2003    96 points    $45
I simply don’t understand why this wine, made from some of the oldest shiraz vines in the world (dating back to 1847) continues to be available at $45. So long as it is, it has a permanent position in the Top 100. It has superb structure and mouthfeel to blackberry fruit and a seamless background of French oak.
Drink now-2023 S 14.5? alc Barossa Valley, SA
www.turkeyflat.com.au

Glaetzer Godolphin 2004    95 points    $49
You may actually be able to buy this, unlike its on-strict-allocation big brother Amon Ra. Winemaker Ben Glaetzer has blended shiraz and cabernet sauvignon, and bottled it unfiltered after 18 months in quality oak. It is quite delicious, with supple and luxuriant blackcurrant, cassis and blackberry intermingling with fine and soft tannins.
Drink now-2015 QC 15? alc Barossa Valley, SA
www.glaetzer.com

Hewitson The Mad Hatter Shiraz 2003    95 points    $50
With an exemplary winemaking CV, spanning California, France and 10 years with Petaluma, Dean Hewitson makes great wines from old vineyards under long-term lease. Here spice, chocolate, blackberry and mocha aromas and flavours are coupled with fine, ripe tannins, the wine carrying its alcohol with ridiculous ease.
Drink now-2018 S 15? alc Barossa Valley, SA
www.hewitson.com.au

Kooyong Meres Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2003    95 points    $55
This is lighter in colour and lower in alcohol than its less expensive ($42) ‘standard’ Kooyong stable-mate. Its lovely, lively, juicy fragrance is all about the delicacy of great pinot, with an ultimate, silky mouthfeel and great length. This is strictly for the true believers.
Drink now-2009 D 13? alc Mornington Peninsula, Vic
www.kooyong.com

Paringa Estate Pinot Noir 2003    96 points    $55
Lindsay McCall makes either two or three pinots each vintage, and has to be regarded as Australia’s most consistent producer of high quality pinot, with an awesome show record. Developing slowly, this wine has immaculate balance and mouthfeel to its dark plum, spice and forest floor fruit, with a long finish.
Drink now-2010 C 13.7? alc Mornington Peninsula, Vic
www.paringaestate.com.au

Yering Station Reserve Shiraz Viognier 2003    96 points    $58
Tom Carson was named International Winemaker of the Year in London in recognition of his extreme skills with this blend. The wine has developed slowly and with absolute conviction over the past year, deeply coloured, with smooth and supple plum and blackberry, appealing oak and lovely tannins.
Drink now-2018 S 15? alc Yarra Valley, Vic
www.yering.com

Freycinet Pinot Noir 2003    95 points    $62
A justly-revered pinot producer from Tasmania’s east coast, made as much in the natural amphitheatre site as in the no-frills winery. It is holding its hue well, its bell-clear bouquet of plum, black cherry and spice followed by a very long, immaculately balanced palate. Has flourished in bottle over the past 10 months.
Drink now-2010 C 13.5? alc Tasmania
www.freycinetvineyard.com.au

Shadowfax One Eye Shiraz 2002    96 points    $70
This was a great red wine vintage, marked by cool weather and low crops thanks to small berries and small bunches. Clear, bright red-purple, it has fragrant spicy overtones to black fruits, a finely structured and perfectly balanced palate providing power without alcohol. Still improving.
Drink now-2015 C 14? alc Bendigo, Vic
www.shadowfax.com.au

St Hallett Old Block Shiraz 2002    96 points    $70
This is one of the best Old Blocks I can remember, an exercise in positive elegance from start to finish. It has very good colour, and excellent texture, structure and length to its red and black fruits, with a cornucopia touch of mocha-accented oak. The tannins, too, are fine and long.
Drink now-2014 C 14.5? alc Barossa Valley, SA
www.sthallett.com.au

Yarra Yarra The Yarra Yarra 2002    96 points    $75
This was the runner-up to the 2001 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon in the 2005 Tri-Nations Wine Challenge, in a very strong field of 21 wines. Deeply coloured, it is a notably rich wine, layered and textured, with velvety, profound blackcurrant, earth, spice and beguiling, cedary oak.
Drink now-2022 C 13.5? alc Yarra Valley, Vic
Tel (03) 5965 2380

Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2004    96 points    $78
It is said practice makes perfect, and Tim Kirk has had more practice than most with this blend, consistently fine-tuning the technique for a decade. Brilliantly coloured, the spotlessly clean bouquet has that hallmark whiff of apricot; blackberry, plum and spice drive the silky palate through to a long, perfectly balanced finish.
Drink now-2019 S 14? alc Canberra District, NSW
www.clonakilla.com.au

Balnaves of Coonawarra The Tally Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2001    96 points    $80
Parcels from three different vineyard blocks were given extended maceration by Wine Magazine’s Winemaker of the Year Pete Bissell before spending 20 months in new French oak. Densely coloured, this powerful yet graceful wine has saturated black fruits, an opulent mid-palate, then tightened and lengthened by cedary oak and lingering tannins.
Drink now-2026 C 14? alc Coonawarra, SA
www.balnaves.com.au

Cullen Diana Madeline Cabernet Merlot 2001    96 points    $90
A blend of 72 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 20 per cent merlot, and four per cent each of petit verdot and malbec from the hand of Vanya Cullen, named to honour her late mother. Crystal clear colour, bell-clear, intense redcurrant and blackcurrant fruit, built-in tannins and high quality French oak all make for a classic wine.
Drink now-2030 S 13.5? alc Margaret River, WA
www.cullenwines.com.au

Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz 2003    96 points    $100
From one of the best red wine vintages in the Hunter for decades, grown on the low-yielding Graveyard Vineyard near the winery. It has very good colour, mixing blackberry and cherry fruit with touches of chocolate and spicy oak. Restrained power to a medium to full-bodied wine of immaculate balance and length.
Drink 2008-2023 S 13.5? alc Hunter Valley, NSW
www.brokenwood.com.au

Wirra Wirra Chook Block Shiraz 2002    97 points    $100
Only 250 dozen bottles were made by the winemaking team at Wirra, headed by Samantha Connew, the father-figure of CEO Tim James in the background. Chock full of regional dark chocolate, it carries its alcohol with miraculous ease, the medium to full-bodied palate with concentrated black fruits and outstanding length.
Drink now-2022 S 15? alc McLaren Vale, SA
www.wirrawirra.com

Hardys Eileen Hardy Shiraz 2001    96 points    $105
A wine with a proud history, the first named in honour of the Hardy matriarch (the Chardonnay came much later). Holding its hue well, it is one of the most elegant in the long series; no more than medium-bodied, its cedar, black fruits and dusting of chocolate have marvellously silky texture; very long in the mouth.
Drink now-2020 C 14? alc McLaren Vale, SA
www.hardys.com.au

Wolf Blass Platinum Label Barossa Shiraz 2002    97 points    $199
Barossa in this instance means Barossa Zone, which incorporates both the Barossa Valley and Eden Valley, each contributing 50 per cent of the wine. A multi-trophy winner, it is a super-elegant, beautifully crafted wine, with black fruits, tannins and oak seamlessly woven together through to a long, lingering finish.
Drink now-2025 S 14.5? alc Barossa/Eden Valleys, SA
www.wolfblass.com.au

Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz 2001    96 points    $385
There are many experienced winemakers who believe the South Australian 2001 vintage is very underrated. Here a dusty, earthy black fruit and mocha bouquet is a slightly subdued opening, but the wine springs into life on the palate with wonderfully long and persistent red and black fruits, fine tannins and good oak.
Drink now-2016 C 14? alc Eden Valley, SA
www.henschke.com.au

Penfolds Grange 2000    97 points    $400
This was not a great vintage, and this wine was trenchantly criticised by one prominent winewriter early in its life. Rigorous selection, a small make, and generations of experience have in fact produced a classic, slowly but surely evolving wine with abundant power and concentration. Sultry blackberry, dark chocolate, a strong tannin structure and balanced oak tell the tale.
Drink 2010-2030 C 14? alc  Southeast Australia
www.penfolds.com.au

Australian sparkling wine
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There really isn’t any comparison between Australian sparkling wine and champagne, and it is impossible to argue with the many drinkers who are more than happy with the value-for-money which modern sparkling wines (so much better than those of a decade ago) offer. The eight wines came from a field of 51, some (such as 2000 Arras) omitted because they were not commercially labelled.

Hardys Sir James Brut de Brut NV    89 points    $11
Made from cool-grown pinot noir and chardonnay, spending two years on yeast lees, and the drier of the Sir James twins. It has good mousse (effervescence), with a hint of toasty lees on the bouquet, a citrus and white peach palate, the dosage balanced by acidity.
www.hardys.com.au

Taltarni Brut Tache 2003
92 points    $22.35
Invigorated by the inclusion of material from Tasmania and Macedon; the blend is of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier. Salmon-pink, with fragrant berry and cassis aromas. Flavour-packed, but not heavy, with good acidity and length. Additional time on cork a plus.
www.taltarni.com.au

Yarra Burn Chardonnay Pinot Noir Pinot Meunier 2001
93 points    $25
Chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier predominantly grown in the high altitude Hoddles Creek vineyard, and a trophy and two gold medals to its name. It has fine mousse, high-toned grapefruit and spice aromas, the palate elegant, fine and long. Crystal bright and pure, it has a great finish.
www.hardywines.com.au/brands/yarra.html

Seppelt Salinger 2002
93 points    $25.99
Salinger continues on the comeback trail, doubtless driven by the combination of high quality and very modest pricing. From the classic varieties grown in Victoria and Tasmania, it offers a gentle mix of toasty/bready yeast characters and tangy fruit on the bouquet. In the mouth, bright citrus, nectarine and white peach fruit precede a well-balanced, long and dry finish. Stylish.
www.seppelt.com.au

Yarrabank Cuvee 2000
95 points    $35
Always achieves an extra degree of elegance and finesse, and is one of my perennial favourites. A complex varietal and regional blend, it has excellent persistent and fine mousse. The palate has pure mineral, apple and gentle yeast autolysis, then an exceptionally fine and long finish.

Freycinet Radenti 1998
94 points    $65
Winner of the 2005 Tri Nations sparkling wine class, overcoming some very classy competition. Extended lees and bottle age has not diminished the wonderfully fragrant orange blossom aromas; the intense citrussy palate is very long, the fine Tasmanian acidity balanced not so much by dosage as the power of the fruit.
www.freycinetvineyard.com.au

Primo Estate Joseph Sparkling Red    94 points    $50
The most complex sparkling red on the market, with the shiraz base wine including components back to the 1980s, the reserve wine for the dosage coming from the ’60s and ’70s. Disgorged in September 2003 after one year on yeast lees, it has an immaculately balanced mix of spicy dark fruits, the dosage low simply because there are no phenolics to be covered up.
www.primoestate.com.au

Hanging Rock Macedon Cuvee VI RD    95 points    $100
Fortune favours the bold, they say, in this case for the first $100 Australian sparkling. It is a re-release of Cuvee VI, having spent nine years on yeast lees. It is beautifully balanced, with a touch of biscuit from the pinot component; very good acidity lengthens the finish; overall, Bollinger-like.
www.hangingrock.com.au

Top 100 – 2004

Whites $20 and Under

A neatly balanced mix of chardonnays and semillons (four each); sauvignon blancs/sauvignon blanc blends and semillons (three each); and pinot gris, viognier and colombard (one each). Most come with screwcaps, and while some are at their best right now, others will repay cellaring. Cheap does not mean nasty.

Lindemans Bin 95 Sauvignon Blanc 2004
87 points    $9
It may seem paradoxical that cheaper sauvignon blanc should have fared (relatively speaking) better than upmarket examples in 2004, but that appears to be the case. The wine has obvious tropical varietal fruit on both bouquet and palate; a slightly thick finish does not unduly detract from the overall impact.
Drink now  SY
Drink with deep-fried calamari
www.lindemans.com.au

Zilzie Buloke Reserve Chardonnay 2004
89 points    $10
The Forbes family has been farming Zilzie Estate at Karadoc since 1911, diversifying into grapes with 250 hectares, initially contract planted for Southcorp, since moving into large-scale winemaking with much success. Bright yellow-green, the lively, fresh melon and nectarine fruit palate has a particularly good, crisp finish.
Drink now  S
Drink with smoked salmon
www.zilziewines.com

Nepenthe Vineyards Tryst Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2004
92 points    $13
The back label shyly confesses that there is a small amount of pinot gris also present in the blend; perhaps the tryst led to a marriage of convenience. Whatever, the result is a rich array of tropical fruits and abundant flavour; the long finish is neither coarse nor phenolic.
Drink now-2007  S
Drink with scampi
www.nepenthe.com.au

Tyrrell’s Old Winery Semillon 2004
89 points    $13
Tyrrell’s makes a far greater range of semillons than any other producer in the Hunter Valley (or elsewhere). Its experience and extensive grape sources shine through here, with stylish lemon and herb flavours, a brisk, light-bodied palate, and lively, crunchy acidity to lengthen the finish and aftertaste.
Drink now-2012  S
Drink with steamed mussels
www.tyrrells.com.au

Primo Estate La Biondina 2004
89 points    $14.50
While predominantly colombard (as the wine used to be called), La Biondina now incorporates  lesser amounts of riesling and sauvignon blanc. As ever, it is fresh, crisp and lively, with slippery/squeaky mouthfeel, and a clean, dry finish and aftertaste. The ultimate summer and seafood white.
Drink now  S
Drink with crab salad
www.primoestate.com.au

Ferngrove Vineyards Frankland River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2004
93 points    $15
Ferngrove is going from strength to strength, most recently measured by its outstanding success across the board at the recent Qantas Wine Show of Western Australia. A clean and aromatic tropical passionfruit bouquet leads into a fresh, crisp palate with herb and grass joining the band of flavours.
Drink now-2007  S
Drink with lemon-marinated fish
www.ferngrove.com.au

Paringa Estate Peninsula Chardonnay 2003
91 points    $15
How does an estate-grown wine (from Paringa’s Callanans Road Vineyard), 100 per cent barrel-fermented  in French oak, 20 per cent new, come at this price?  Forget the gift horse; the elegant, moderately intense grapefruit and melon palate is perfectly balanced, the fruit having eaten the oak. Fantastic value from a top producer.
Drink now-2008  S
Drink with smoked trout
www.paringaestate.com.au

De Bortoli Gulf Station Chardonnay 2003
91 points    $17
Gulf Station is the second tier of 100 per cent Yarra Valley-sourced wines for
De Bortoli. It is a wine which has developed very well over the past nine months; nectarine, melon and citrus fruit and subtle barrel ferment inputs have grown in complexity, the palate finely structured and very, very long.
Drink now-2008  S
Drink with tempura
www.debortoli.com.au

Chalkers Crossing Tumbarumba Chardonnay 2002
94 points    $18
This is absolutely ridiculous; how can a wine of this quality and price still be available notwithstanding previous selection in the Top 100? It is showing no sign of tiring, as intense and long as ever. Citrus and nectarine fruit are the drivers, French oak in the back seat.
Drink now-2010  TT
Drink with Gravlax
www.chalkerscrossing.com.au

McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon 2000
93 points    $18
Has now largely emerged from its transition phase from youth to the first years of maturity, improving markedly as it has done so. Ripe lemon/citrus fruit aroma and flavour attests to the dry vintage, the smooth and supple palate braced by the lively acidity essential to the style.
Drink now-2008  C
Drink with smoked eel
www.mcwilliams.com.au

McWilliam’s Regional Collection Clare Valley Riesling 2004
95 points    $18.50
In prior vintages it has been the Eden Valley version which has gained more accolades, but this year I, at least, prefer the Clare Valley wine. It has crystal clear varietal character, offering lingering lime juice and grapefruit flavours with a minerally acid cross-cut, giving structure and length.
Drink now-2015  S
Drink with antipasto
www.mcwilliams.com.au

Tahbilk Viognier 2004
90 points    $19
The number of producers of viognier grows day by day: as at 2003, 540 hectares produced just under 3900 tonnes, or roughly 270,000 cases. As this wine shows, Yalumba doesn’t have it all to itself; highly aromatic, it is laden with peach pastille mid-palate fruit, the finish clear and uncluttered.
Drink now-2006  S
Drink with quiche lorraine
www.tahbilk.com.au

Knappstein Hand Picked Riesling 2004
94 points    $20
The grapes for this wine are predominantly estate-grown, the remainder from selected growers; the outcome is a blend of Clare and Watervale fruit. It has a fragrant and floral bouquet of apple, lime and passionfruit, and a delicate but intense palate of pure riesling fruit.
Drink now-2012  S
Drink with grilled whiting
www.knappsteinwines.com.au

Leasingham Bin 7 Riesling 2004
95 points    $20
The cool 2004 vintage coincided with larger than usual berries, bunches and hence yields, which bunch-thinning only partially overcame for those who bit the bullet. This has more potent and powerful fruit than most, with intense mineral and citrus aromas and flavours, the palate deep and long.
Drink now-2014  S
Drink with asparagus and prosciutto
www.leasingham-wines.com.au

O’Leary Walker Watervale Riesling 2004
94 points    $20
With two O’Leary Walker Rieslings in the frame (the other from the Polish Hill River subregion) my choice fell on the Watervale wine. Pale straw-green, it has a lively, fragrant, spice and citrus bouquet, and a fresh palate with tingling fruit and crunchy acidity; overall delicacy and finesse.
Drink now 2010  S
Drink with gazpacho
www.olearywalkerwines.com

Seppelt Coborra Drumborg Vineyard Pinot Gris 2004
94 points    $20
The long-established Drumborg Vineyard in Victoria’s Henty region has been a corporate labour of love for Seppelt, for the very cool region can provide real challenges. On the other hand, this spicy, flinty, floral wine has exceptional length and intensity, and could only come from such a climate. Simply outstanding.
Drink now-2007  S
Drink with oysters
www.seppelt.com.au

Tyrrell’s Reserve Stevens Semillon 2000
94 points    $20
It is no surprise to find that this wine has won trophies and gold medals at the toughest shows for semillons, the Hunter Valley and Canberra National. Elegant but intense lemon/acacia aromas lead into a similarly fine, intense and long palate, still with a decade, cork permitting.
Drink now-2015  C
Drink with salmon terrine
www.tyrrells.com.au

Whites Over $20

An white winemaking technology is second to none, whether it be in the aromatic, tank-fermented rieslings, semillons and other unwooded white wines, or with barrel-fermented and matured chardonnays. While some of the selected wines already have bottle age, all will repay further cellaring, with particular confidence for the screwcap-finished wines.

Wilson Vineyard Polish Hill River Riesling 2004
95 points    $22
Another switch from my normal preference (slight though it may be) for the Wilson DJW wines. Its bouquet has bell-clear notes of spice, lime and mineral; the palate is very long, as is the lingering aftertaste. As with all these rieslings, bottle age will invest the wine with great complexity and texture.
Drink now-2014  S
Drink with caesar salad
www.wilsonvineyard.com.au

Houghton Frankland River Riesling 2001
94 points    $24
Anyone who ignores the quality of riesling which comes from the Frankland River subregion of Western Australia’s Great Southern does themselves a disservice. A fascinating array of floral honeysuckle and passionfruit aromas have developed with bottle age, and which flow through to the utterly expressive and distinctive palate.
Drink now-2011  S
Drink with stir-fried prawns
www.houghton-wines.com.au

Seppelt Drumborg Riesling 2004
96 points    $24
Whatever uncertainties there may have been about the intensity of 2004 white wines in South Australia, they do not apply to this wine. Intense, fragrant and flowery aromas announce a brilliantly poised and focussed wine and its long citrus and mineral flavours. Shines like a diamond. Exceptional value.
Drink now-2019  S
Drink with sashimi
www.seppelt.com.au

Pewsey Vale The Contours Museum Release Riesling 1999
96 points    $25
Yalumba was the commercial pioneer of screwcaps more than a decade before the public was prepared to accept them; its experience with the closure shows in this beautifully developed wine. A super-intense, fragrant and complex bouquet is matched by the great grapefruit, lime and herb palate and penetrating finish.
Drink with blue swimmer crab
Drink now-2009  S
www.pewseyvale.com

Keith Tulloch Semillon 2004
95 points    $26
The Hunter Valley Wine Show is the ultimate testing ground for semillon. Repeated success here for the best known producers (Tyrrell’s, McWilliam’s) is only to be expected, but the production minnow Keith Tulloch achieves it too. Sophisticated crafting results in a silken web of complexity and an alluring future.
Drink 2009-2019  S
Drink with sauteed scallops
www.keithtullochwine.com.au

Montalto Chardonnay 2003
95 points    $27
The Mornington Peninsula is coming into is own as the vineyards mature and (perhaps) as the climate warms. Experience, too, is playing a positive role. This wine has a fragrant, delicate yet intense array of white peach and grapefruit aromas and flavours marry with perfect, almost sweet, acidity. Quite delicious.
Drink now-2008  C
Drink with salmon ravioli
www.montalto.com.au

Cullen Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2003
96 points    $29
A blend of 54 per cent semillon and 46 per cent sauvignon blanc, 34 per cent fermented in new French oak, 23 per cent with wild yeast, almost inevitably produces a multi-dimensional and complex palate; the skill is the retention of citrus and passionfruit in a superbly fresh and balanced palate.
Drink now-2008  S
Drink with sugar-cured tuna
www.cullenwines.com.au

Brokenwood ILR Reserve Semillon 2000
96 points    $35
ILR are the initials of Iain Riggs, chief winemaker and chief executive of Brokenwood for over 20 years. Made specifically for late release, it is brilliant green-yellow, spotlessly clean and still youthful, with lemon and lanolin aromas, and touches of toast and honey lurking in the shadows.
Drink now-2012  C
Drink with bouillabaisse
www.brokenwood.com.au

Howard Park Chardonnay 2003
96 points    $35
Howard Park winemaker Michael Kerrigan is making a seemingly endless  stream of top class wines right across the varietal spectrum. A seamless and super-fine palate reflects precision engineering of nectarine fruit and barrel-fermented French oak; the epitome of elegance, and at the start of its life.
Drink now-2010  S
Drink with slow-roasted Tasmanian salmon
www.howardparkwines.com.au

Shaw & Smith M3 Vineyard Chardonnay 2003
95 points    $35
Sauvignon blanc, Martin Shaw and Michael Hill Smith agree, makes itself once the vineyard delivers. Here the roles are in part reversed; the complex, intense and tight aromas and flavours of stone fruit, melon and fig interlaced with cashew and spicy oak in the background; a fine example of winemaking.
Drink now-2009  C
Drink with seafood risotto
www.shawandsmith.com

Voyager Estate Margaret River Chardonnay 2003
96 points    $38
Situated in the viticultural equivalent of harbourside real estate, adjacent to Leeuwin Estate, in Australia’s best chardonnay region. It is an elegantly constructed and perfectly balanced wine; the fruit has soaked up all the new French oak in which the wine was fermented, driving through on the long, lingering finish.
Drink now-2013  S
Drink with seafood risotto
www.voyagerestate.com.au

Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2004
96 points    $39
Often slower to open up than its Watervale counterpart, this year the roles seem to be reversed, but without compromising the cellaring potential of this wine. Potent lime and apple blossom aromas flow through into the palate, where flecks of herb and slate add to the complexity of the long finish.
Drink now-2014  S
Drink with vegetarian terrine
www.grosset.com.au

Lake’s Folly Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2002
96 points    $45
Lake’s Folly has never entered wine shows, but it would be fascinating to see a toe-to-toe contest with Tyrrell’s Vat 47. Bright green-yellow, this proclaims its class from start to finish, with immaculately handled barrel ferment oak supporting white peach fruit and fine acidity.
Drink now-2009  C
Drink with Chinese baked fish
www.lakesfolly.com.au

Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Hunter Semillon 1997
96 points    $45
The three selected semillons (from 2004, ’00 and 1999) graphically demonstrate the majestic way the variety develops in bottle, but do not for one moment think this wine is at the end of the road. Brilliant green-yellow; herb, lanolin, toast and lemon aromas precede a brilliantly fresh and lingering palate (cork permitting).
Drink now-2010+  C
Drink with New Zealand whitebait
www.tyrrells.com.au

Chardonnay by Farr 2003
96 points    $50
This is the patriarch Gary Farr’s wine (as opposed to Bannockburn and son Nicholas’ Farr Rising) but there is a strong family resemblance: full frontal and uncompromising, with more than a passing nod to Burgundy. Fabulously rich, tapestried stone fruit and nutty/creamy texture and flavour make a wine of great distinction.
Drink now-2012  C
Drink with sweetbreads

Cullen Margaret River Chardonnay 2002
96 points    $55
The strong performance of the Margaret River in the Top 100 simply reflects the magic union between variety and region, the skill of Vanya Cullen making it even stronger. Here complexity reaches the highest level, malolactic and barrel ferment inputs coalescing with the fruit on the marvellously textured palate.
Drink now-2014  S
Drink with grilled spatchcock
www.cullenwines.com.au

Leeuwin Estate Art Series Margaret River Chardonnay 2001
97 points    $76
Australia’s best Chardonnay and an outstanding vintage in Margaret River caused me to quickly put my money where my pen is. This is close to perfection, its classic restraint simply pointing to the long term future, as layers of complexity will build on the perfectly balanced silky stone fruit and high quality oak.
Drink now-2016  C
Drink with avocado and prawn salad
www.leeuwinestate.com.au

Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay 2001
96 points    $100
Yattarna was a long time in gestation, and the first offspring haven’t all matured as Penfolds might have wished. By all rights, this should do so, building on its super-refined and elegant creamy cashew and melon fruit, the oak inthe background where it should be. A wine of headline purity.
Drink now-2011  C
Drink with milk-fed veal
www.penfolds.com.au

Reds $20 and Under

Not only was I able to choose 19 red wines for $20 and less, but most are considerably under $20 without pinching the value for money ratio. As might be expected, shiraz dominates the group with seven varietals and two blends, but cabernet sauvignon and blends accounted for another six, leaving room for a rose, a pinot noir, a merlot and a sangiovese.

Hardys Voyage Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot Merlot 2003
87 points    $6
Offers the same jaw-dropping quality-for-price as its sister wine, Voyage White. A blend of cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot and merlot (remarkable in itself at this price point) it has a smooth and soft mix of raspberry and plum fruits and soft tannins, the seeming absence of oak irrelevant.
Drink now  SY
Drink with ravioli
www.hardys.com.au

Long Flat Wine Co Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2003
92 points    $10
I thought the previous first-up vintage of this wine was a never-to-be-repeated flash in the pan courtesy of the 2002 vintage. Not so; this equally astonishing bargain has abundant varietal plum and spice aromas and flavours, offset by a pleasingly savoury finish sustaining the length and aftertaste.
Drink now-2006  S
Drink with braised rabbit
www.cheviotbridge.com.au

Kingston Estate Shiraz 2003
88 points    $11
Sourced from unspecified premium regions, but no doubt with a substantial Riverland component, something which no longer needs apologies, as grape quality continues to improve thanks to competition. There is unexpected weight and structure to the palate, with plenty of ripe, black fruit flavours, even if it does shorten fractionally.
Drink now-2008  C
Drink with gourmet sausages
www.kingstonestatewines.com

Houghton Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2003
90 points    $11
What is good for the (Moondah Brook) gander is good for the (Houghton) goose, both part of the Hardys group and sharing the same viticultural resources. Abundant and expansive red and black fruits provide delicious mouthfeel and flavour; fantastic value for a lovely drink-now wine.
Drink now-2007  C
Drink with beef spare ribs
www.houghton-wines.com.au

De Bortoli Windy Peak King Valley Sangiovese 2003
89 points    $12
A number of tastings over this year have consistently appealed for this wine from a variety which isn’t easy to grow and make well. Above average colour presages a palate with supple red and black cherry fruit, the tannins fine and gently spicy. An enticing fruit-foremost style.
Drink now-2007  C
Drink with wild mushroom risotto
www.debortoli.com.au

Water Wheel Memsie Shiraz Cabernet Malbec 2003
90 points    $12
Peter Cumming has quietly and unostentatiously gone about making his ever-reliably very good value Water Wheel wines for 15 years. This wine has special appeal, with its powerful but restrained array of dark, black fruits; overall firm structure and tannins around a core of sweetness.
Drink 2006-2011  C
Drink with stir-fried beef
www.waterwheelwine.com

Carbunup Crest Margaret River Merlot 2003
89 points    $12.50
Once again, Carbunup Crest comes up with red wines offering excellent value, particularly in the context of the Margaret River. Sophisticated winemaking produces a full-flavoured palate with red and black fruits, a twist of olive, fine tannins and a hint of sweetness. Ready to go right now.
Drink now-2007  S
Drink with lamb kidneys

Hardys Oomoo McLaren Vale Shiraz 2003
92 points    $13
Uses a name and label design cleverly resurrected from Hardys’ 19th century archives, and draws its grapes from its original home region. Laden with plum and blackberry fruit and a wrapping of regional chocolate, it has excellent balance, depth and structure. Almost embarrassingly good value.
Drink now-2008  C
Drink with beef casserole
www.hardys.com.au

Moondah Brook Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
91 points    $13
Hardys has unparalleled vineyard sources throughout Western Australia, the ‘trickle-down’ effect leading to the inclusion of premium material in this wine. Blackcurrant and cassis fruit are matched by fine tannins and subtle oak; medium-bodied, it has very good texture and structure. Outstanding value.
Drink now-2008  C
Drink with butterfly leg of lamb
www.brlhardy.com.au/brands/moondah.html

Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet 2002
90 points    $14
Vertical tastings of Koonunga Hill at various times over the past 15-20 years underline the longevity and quality of the wine from top vintages such as 1976, ’86, ’90, ’96, ’98 and now 2002. It has excellent blackberry and blackcurrant fruit aromas and flavours, velvety tannins and subtle oak.
Drink now-2012  C
Drink with beef shashlik
www.penfolds.com.au

Judds Warby Range Estate Shiraz 2003
91 points    $15
Ralph and Margaret Judd planted their small vineyard as growers for Southcorp, but have since ventured into making part of the crop under their own label. Voluminous blackberry, plum and spice fruit is supported by soft, ripe tannins and well integrated vanilla oak.
Drink now-2008  C
Drink with marinated beef
www.warbyrange-estate.com.au

Zonte’s Footstep Langhorne Creek Cabernet Malbec 2003
92 points    $15
A joint venture between John Pargeter (vigneron), Ben Riggs (winemaker and Zar Brooks (flamboyant marketer and inventor of the voluminous back label). Vividly coloured, the wine has a soft, lusciously sweet array of smooth and supple red and black fruits. Delicious drink now (or later, thanks to the screwcap) style.
Drink now-2007  S
Drink with lasagne
www.zontesfootstep.com.au

Charles Cimicky Trumps Barossa Valley Shiraz 2003
93 points    $16
A newcomer to the Top 100, but a Barossa stalwart of long standing who has never sought the eastern states limelight, selling most locally. Densely coloured, the wine has lush blackberry, plum, prune and spice aromas and flavours, with echoes of bitter chocolate on the finish, and well-handled oak.
Drink now-2013  C
Drink with osso bucco

Pertaringa Undercover Shiraz 2002
93 points    $18
Another wine from this wonderful vintage to come along in leaps and bounds over the past nine months, and with more to go. It is in archetypal McLaren Vale style, offering a melange of black fruits and dark chocolate; silky tannins help the lively mouthfeel and long finish.
Drink 2005-2015  S
Drink with kangaroo fillet
www.pertaringa.com.au

Balnaves of Coonawarra The Blend 2001
94 points    $19
A classic Bordeaux mix of 35 per cent cabernet franc, 32 per cent each cabernet sauvignon and merlot and 11 per cent petit verdot. It has developed surely over the past 12 months, with great texture and mouthfeel; cedar, cigar box, spice and blackcurrant intermingle with ultra-fine tannins.
Drink 2006-2015  C
Drink with roast saltbush lamb
www.balnaves.com.au

Jim Barry Lodge Hill Shiraz 2002
93 points    $20
Selected for the Top 100 little more than a week prior to the death of Clare Valley patriarch Jim Barry. A heroic style for extended cellaring, it is opaquely coloured, with powerful blackberry, black olive and earth aromas, then layer upon layer of black fruit flavours and tannins.
Drink 2007-2017  C
Drink with jugged hare

Richard Hamilton Hut Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
94 points    $20
Ex Southcorp winemaker Paul Gordon is revelling in the quality of the vineyards owned by Dr Richard Hamilton. This is a quite lovely wine, with sweet cassis and blackcurrant flavours in an elegant frame; fine but quite intense tannins and oak provide perfectly balanced support.
Drink now-2015  C
Drink with rack of lamb

Cheviot Bridge Yea Valley Shiraz 2002
93 points    $20
From the longer-established quality arm of the Long Flat Wine Co comes a wine which has improved significantly over the past 12 months. Bright deep purple-red, it has an intense, rich but not jammy array of red and black fruits and spices, supported by lots of ripe tannins and oak.
Drink now-2012  S
Drink with Irish stew
www.cheviotbridge.com.au

Charles Melton Rose of Virginia 2004
94 points    $20
Always one of Australia’s best roses, along with Turkey Flat, Geoff Merrill and Houghton. Vivid red-purple, it is – as ever – bursting with strawberry and raspberry aroma and flavour, yet retaining delicacy thanks to its refreshingly dry finish. The perfect summer lunch wine.
Drink now-2005  S
Drink with anything Chinese
www.charlesmeltonwines.com.au

Reds Over $20

This is the strongest group of red wines for many years, offering every bit as much value for money as the $20 and under group. It ranges from mainstream to new styles and varieties, quality being the common denominator . as with all the wines in the Top 100, the website should help you track down the harder to find wines.

Alkoomi Frankland River Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
94 points    $22
Estate-grown by Merv and Judy Lange in the Frankland River subregion of Western Australia’s Great Southern; likewise, estate-made. The strong colour correctly suggests a wine with a potent mix of blackcurrant and blackberry, persistent but ripe tannins giving it great texture and structure. Severely under-priced.
Drink 2007-2017  C
Drink with rosemary-studded leg of lamb
www.alkoomiwines.com.au

Warrabilla Reserve Durif 2003
94 points    $22
Rutherglen has been growing durif for a century, almost as long as the variety (propagated by a Dr Durif in France) has existed. The colour is so dense and inky it stains the glass as it is swirled; the palate is massively concentrated, indeed almost viscous, but balanced by tannins, and not over-extracted.
Drink 2008-2018  C
Drink with marinated venison
www.warrabillawines.com.au

Yering Station Yarra Valley Shiraz Viognier 2002
95 points    $23
Not to be confused with the multi-trophy winning reserve version, however much it has a family similarity. The very cool vintage required the skilled viticulture and winemaking evident in this fragrant, ultra-complex mix of spice, licorice and black fruits, with fine, silky tannins and equally fine French oak. Fantastic value.
Drink 2006-2012  C
Drink with braised ox tail
www.yering.com

Chalkers Crossing Hilltops Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
94 points    $25
French-born and trained Celine Rousseau is now an Australian citizen, and her winemaking style is the best of both worlds. Dark red-purple, it has intense varietal blackcurrant and cassis with a cool climate twist of herb and olive, which add to rather than detract from this Bordeaux style bargain.
Drink 2007-2013  C
Drink with lamb loin
www.chalkerscrossing.com.au

Clyde Park Reserve Pinot Noir 2002
95 points    $29
Clyde Park has a mature estate vineyard; fully revived after a difficult period and under new ownership, it is producing excellent wine across the board. The wine is stacked with rich, ripe, plummy fruit moving through to a stylishly savoury and lingering finish. Top gold medal 2004 Geelong Wine Show.
Drink now-2009  C
Drink with roast squab

d’Arenberg The Galvo Garage  2002
95 points    $30
An ‘in-joke’ name for a Bordeaux style blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petit verdot and cabernet franc grown in McLaren Vale, and a gold medal winner at various international shows. A scented and spicy bouquet with touches of leaf and mint, leads into a supple palate with rich, sweet fruits.
Drink 2006-2011  C
Drink with braised lamb
www.darenberg.com.au

Pertaringa Over the Top McLaren Vale Shiraz 2002
95 points    $30
Despite the name, this barrel selection of shiraz from 50-year-old vines has only 14.5 degrees alcohol, modest by McLaren Vale standards. Deeply coloured, it has a wonderful array of luscious black fruits, dark chocolate and ripe tannins. The handling of the French and American oak is faultless.
Drink 2006-2017  C
Drink with beef provencale
www.pertaringa.com.au

Brokenwood Wade Block 2 McLaren Vale Shiraz 2002
95 points    $35
An impressive addition to the Brokenwood shiraz range, coming from Iain Riggs’ vinous birth place of McLaren Vale. It has intense aromas providing a strong regional counterpoint to the Hunter; here dark chocolate replaces the earthy/savoury notes of the Hunter to the black fruit core; excellent tannin and oak management.
Drink 2007-2015  C
Drink with grilled porterhouse steak
www.brokenwood.com.au

Geoff Merrill Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1998
94 points    $35
First tasted 14 months ago, and has benefited greatly from the decision to only now release it. As expected, bottle-developed regional/varietal characters have continued to emerge in a cedary, earthy spectrum. The wine really scores with is mix of elegance and intensity, but, above all, with its lingering finish and aftertaste.
Drink now-2013  C
Drink with lamb casserole
www.geoffmerrillwines.com

Haan Wilhelmus 2002
95 points    $42
A blend of 38 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 24 per cent merlot, 22 per cent cabernet franc, ten per cent malbec and six per cent petit verdot matured in a mix of new and one-year-old French oak. All these components are perfectly synthesised and balanced, supported by fully ripe, velvety tannins giving the palate great length.
Drink 2007-2015  C
Drink with Moroccan lamb
www.haanwines.com.au

Petaluma Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2002
96 points    $42
This wine, grown on some of the warmest slopes in the Adelaide Hills, spends 20 months in French oak and is bottled without filtration. It also has five per cent viognier, which helps provide complex, lifted aromas and flavours of black cherry, blackberry and spice; great oak and utterly seductive mouthfeel.
Drink now-2012  C
Drink with smoked beef
www.petaluma.com.au

Penfolds Cellar Reserve Grenache 2002
95 points    $45
High-yielding grenache produces dilute, fruit juice-like wine; low yielding vines produce plenty of flavour, but not always structure. This has both, with intense raspberry/blackberry aromas, then a rich, beautifully textured and structured palate; fine tannins and superb mouthfeel. Reminiscent of the Mark Shields Memorial Wine.
Drink now-2012  C
Drink with game pie
www.penfolds.com.au

Turkey Flat Barossa Shiraz 2002
97 points    $45
Many of the vines on the Turkey Flat vineyard which go to make this wine were planted in 1847. Densely coloured, it is an intense and concentrated fruit bowl of blackberry, plum and licorice, with quite outstanding balance and oak. Commendably moderate oak and moderate alcohol, and an immoderately low price.
Drink 2007-2022  C
Drink with eye fillet of beef
www.turkeyflat.com.au

Heathcote Winery Curagee Shiraz 2002
95 points    $48
This is the top-of-the range release from Heathcote Winery, and has improved significantly over the past nine months. Deep in colour, there is a touch of viognier to amplify the rich explosion of blackberry, spice, licorice and dark chocolate; a seriously delicious wine with great length.
Drink 2006-2015  C
Drink with beef spare ribs

Wirra Wirra RSW Mclaren Vale Shiraz 2002
97 points    $48
This top-of-the-range shiraz spends 20 months in French and American oak. Dense but delicious black fruits and dark chocolate have a fine veneer of high quality, perfectly balanced and integrated oak. A wine with all the power of the 2002 vintage, but held in a 14.5 degree-velvet glove. Like the Turkey Flat, a bargain.
Drink 2007-2017  C
Drink with roast baby kid
www.wirrawirra.com

Kilikanoon Oracle Clare Valley Shiraz 2002
96 points    $49
Owner-winemaker Kevin Mitchell has taken Kilikanoon to another level of quality and consistency with Oracle, positioned just above Covenant. Slightly denser in colour, rich blackberry and blackcurrant run through an intense and long palate, with excellent balance and structure;  exemplary tannins and oak.
Drink 2007-2017  C
Drink with char-grilled rump steak
www.kilikanoon.com.au

Bannockburn Geelong Shiraz 2002
96 points    $50
Using some fermentation techniques borrowed from Burgundy, Gary Farr invests his shiraz with an extra degree of excitement, paradoxically in the style of the best Northern Rhone Valley. High-toned, the wine has an exotic, piercing mix of blackberry, spice and licorice, and an ultra-long finish.
Drink 2007-2015  C
Drink with roast venison
www.bannockburnvineyards.com

Frogmore Creek Reserve Pinot Noir 2002
96 points    $50
The first vintage from the organic vineyard of Tony Scherer and Jack Kidwiler, and which walked off with the trophy for Best Wine of Show at the 2004 Tasmanian Wine Show. Complex and rich, abundant and opulent plummy fruit; good oak and extract. Outstanding wine.
Drink now-2011  C
Drink with rare duck breast

Journeys End McLaren Vale Arrival Shiraz 2002
96 points    $50
Replete with a label looking very much like the famed Woodley Treasure Chest series of the 1940s and ’50s. this is the top end (after the Ascent) of another new virtual winery. It has another dimension of power, flooded with superb regional fruit and dark chocolate, with lingering but fine tannins.
Drink 2007-2017  C
Drink with  beef bordelaise
www.journeysendvineyards.com.au

Joseph Moda Cabernet Merlot 2002
95 points    $55
In deference to Italian sensibilities, Joe Grilli dropped the ‘Amaraone’ after ‘Moda’, but still uses some of the dried fruit method. Intriguingly complex aromas and flavours of tobacco, blackcurrant, cedar and spice are flanked by ripe, spicy tannins and very good oak. An overall impression of delectably ripe fruit.
Drink 2007-2017  C
Drink with  roast ox kidney
www.primoestate.com.au

Punters Corner Spartacus Reserve Shiraz 2002
96 points    $65
While the 2002 vintage was good in Coonawarra, it was better elsewhere in South Australia, but you wouldn’t know that looking at this wine. Deeply coloured, the potent, penetrating bouquet leads into lusciously abundant mid-palate blackberry and spice, balanced by fine tannins and faintly smoky oak on the finish.
Drink 2007-2015  C
Drink with braised ox cheek
www.punterscorner.com.au

Paringa Estate Reserve Special Barrel Selection Pinot Noir 2003
97 points    $80
This wine comes at the top of the awesome four-level range of pinots crafted by the masterly Lindsay McCall, who literally weaves magic with this difficult variety. Beautifully fragrant, with long and silky red fruits, it is in ultra-classic style, elegant and perfumed. Sheer class.
Drink now-2010  C
Drink with duck and truffle risotto
www.paringaestate.com.au

Moss Wood Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
96 points    $85
There is no doubt the 2001 vintage in Margaret River was outstanding, as even the normally hard to please Keith Mugford is happy to admit. Spotlessly clean, this is a gorgeous, silky wine flooded with redcurrant, cassis and blackcurrant fruit in a web of fine tannins. Elegance personified, the screwcap guaranteeing a very long life.
Drink 2006-2026  S
Drink with lamb backstrap
www.mosswood.com.au

Reschke Empyrean Cabernet Sauvignon 1998
96 points    $115
When first released over two years ago by a new, unknown Coonawarra winery at $100 per bottle, the silence was deafening, good though the wine was. It is now evolving superbly, with a lovely mix of rich blackcurrant and cedar/cigar box. The palate is supple, and sweet in the best sense; long future.
Drink now-2018  C
Drink with herbed rack of lamb
www.reschke.com.au

Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz 1999
96 points    $320
There has been a degree of controversy about some recent prior vintages of Hill of Grace; there can surely be none about this wine. Deep in colour, it has powerful, classic thoroughbred texture and focus to its black fruits, then silky smooth tannins and finish blossoming over the past year.
Drink 2005-2025  C
Drink with teppanyaki beef
www.henschke.com.au

Penfolds Grange 1999
96 points    $390
Only the third Grange to be made with 100 per cent shiraz, all the others have had a touch of cabernet sauvignon. It has also emerged from the shadow of the 1998, as its initial touch of masculine austerity has (approrpriately) softened, revealing its lovely amalgam of black fruits, warm spice and gentle vanillan oak. The tannins are not aggressive, but will help the long life ahead.
Drink 2009-2034  C
Drink with fillet mignon
www.penfolds.com.au

Australian sparkling wine

Served fully chilled on a summer day to a thirsty audience, most sparkling wine slips down the throat without a nose wrinkled in dislike, no matter how humble the wine may be. So price is a key guide to where you want to be (and drink), but I have drawn the line at excessively sugar-sweet wines.

Queen Adelaide Brut NV
85 points    $6.80
Southcorp has no less than six sparkling wines (all tank-fermented, of course) in the $5-6 range, and this appealed as the best cheap all-rounder, with excellent mousse (bubbles), plenty of grapey flavour, and controlled sweetness. Adding a dash of orange juice would not be a capital offence.
www.southcorp.com.au/wines/specialist.htm

Orlando Trilogy Cuvee But NV
88 points    $15
Near the bottom of the price scale for bottle-fermented (or traditional method) sparkling wine, and made from the classic mix of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier. Crisp and elegant, with a mix of apple and nectarine, it has good length and aftertaste. No frills, but honest and to the point.
www.orlandowyndhamgroup.com/brands_wines.asp

Taltarni Brut 2002
90 points    $21.50
A blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, like its vividly coloured sister Brut Tache (or rose), a blend of material from the Pyrenees, Yarra Valley and Tasmania (ex Clover Hill). The latter regions give the wine its freshness and vivacity expressed in the citrus and pear fruit, and its clean, lingering, brisk, finish.
www.taltarni.com.au

Hardys Sir James Vintage 2001
93 points    $25
Sourced from Tasmania (the favourite stomping ground of Hardys sparkling wine maestro Ed Carr) and Macedon. Super-fine and elegant, it brings together pear, apple and brioche aromas and flavours; impeccably balanced, it has the long, clean finish and aftertaste which is the hallmark of all fine sparkling wines.
www.hardys.com.au

Seppelt Salinger 2001
93 points    $25
Once upon a time Salinger was the most expensive wine on the Australian market, and a style pace-setter. It is well on the way back, it seems, doubtless helped by its juicy price. Complex bready/yeasty autolysis characters help impart very good mouthfeel, the finish tightened and lengthened by good acidity.
www.seppelt.com.au

Domain Chandon Z*D 2000
94 points    $34
Broke new ground in two respects: first, the decision to use a stainless steel crown seal as the closure, and secondly, to use no sugar in the replacement wine following disgorgement. Opens with gently complex aromas, with good bready autolysis, then springs to life in the mouth, the fresh and lively citrus-tinged fruit intensified by the absence of dosage.
www.yarra-valley.net.au/domaine_chandon/

Kreglinger Estate Vintage Brut 1998
95 points    $40
Obviously enough, made at Pipers Brook by Andrew Pirie prior to Kreglinger’s acquisition of Pipers Brook, and has equally obviously spent a long time on lees prior to disgorgement. It is crammed with all the right flavours, creamy/yeasty brioche around a stone fruit and mineral core, then powers through to a long finish.
www.kreglinger.com.au

Seppelt Show Sparkling Shiraz 1994
96 points    $44
By a country mile, the best sparkling red wine. It spends a minimum of six years on lees prior to disgorgement, and this release comes either with a traditional cork or a stainless steel crown cap. It exudes intense spice, licorice and blackberry fruit, and seems drier and even better balanced than prior vintages. If you can find it, buy it.
www.seppelt.com.au

Top 100 – 2003

Whites $20 and Under

2002 Tahbilk Marsanne
90 points    $13.40
Hallelujah, a screwcap to protect one of the best but least recognised varietal cellaring specials; if you doubt me, buy a bottle of the 1998 (on re-release). The wine has lemon and honeysuckle flavours, and great balance of fruit and acidity, guaranteeing its future, however attractive it is now.
Region: Goulburn Valley, Vic
Best drinking: Now-2012
Drink with: Antipasto

2000 Vintage Cellars Robe Chardonnay
92 points    $13.50
No, this is not advertorial. Rather, reflects the inability of big companies to deal with small parcels of exceptional wine. Vintage Cellars could not believe its luck when it was offered, for it is pure class from start to finish, tangy and intense cool-grown chardonnay in a cradle of high quality French oak.
Region: Limestone Coast, SA
Best drinking: Now
Drink with: Robe lobster

2003 Preece Sauvignon Blanc
91 points    $14.95
It seems an eon ago that the first Preece Chardonnay took the market by storm, and the range of Preece wines has grown steadily since. This wine came as a surprise, however, with strongly varietal herb, gooseberry and asparagus aromas, and an equally flavoursome palate.
Region: Goulburn and King Valleys, Strathbogie Ranges, Vic
Best drinking: Now
Drink with: Trout Mousse

2002 Jacob’s Creek Reserve Chardonnay
90 points    $14.95
Although no specific regional claims are made on the label of this wine, I would not be surprised if the Limestone Coast regions had made a contribution. A complex bouquet supports the sustained, pure varietal citrus and stone fruit flavours of the palate; developing slowly and with grace.
Region: South Eastern Australia
Best drinking: Now-2007
Drink with: Sauteed prawns

2003 Leasingham Bin 7 Riesling
93 points    $15.99
Seems to be a permanent part of the Top 100, but you can’t ignore it: old vines and lots of winemaking experience are a potent combination. A clean and precisely chiselled bouquet leads into a palate with considerable intensity and length, lime/citrus with a flinty underlay. Generous but not heavy.
Region: Clare Valley, SA
Best drinking: Now-2013
Drink with: Grilled fish

2001 Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Early Release Semillon
93 points    $16
The first Elizabeth to be experimentally sealed with a screwcap, sold through Vintage Cellars, and a great vintage to start with. Glowing yellow-green; intense varietal aromas are already building complexity, and the palate, too, has lots of herb and lemon fruit, the honey to come later. Great length and style.
Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Best drinking: Now-2011
Drink with: Tempura

2003 West Cape Howe Unwooded Chardonnay
92 points    $16
Unwooded chardonnay is usually infinitely boring, as ubiquitously present as is KFC (which suits it). This, however, is an exception, aromatic and lively, with cool-grown grapefruit and stone fruit aromas and flavours, finishing with cleansing acidity. Fully deserved its gold medal at the Qantas Wine Show of Western Australia.
Region: Great Southern, WA
Best drinking: Now-2005
Drink with: Shellfish

2003 St Hallet Eden Valley Riesling
93 points    $16.50
Another worthy follow-up to the 2002 vintage, which snared plenty of medals and plaudits. A crystal clear and clean bouquet, followed by classic regional lime and lemon juice flavours; fluid and even in the mouth, and a long, lingering finish, appropriately dry and crisp.
Region: Eden Valley, SA
Best drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Carpaccio of tuna

2001 Chalkers Crossing Tumbarumba Chardonnay
96 points    $18
How this wine is still available beats me, but it has not suffered – indeed it has improved – during its time in bottle since last year. Still bright straw-green; ultra-fine citrus blossom aromas flow into a palate of finesse and intensity, with perfect balance of oak, fruit and acidity.
Region: Tumbarumba, NSW
Best drinking: Now-2008
Drink with: Gravlax

2003 Hill Smith Estate Eden Valley Sauvignon Blanc
92 points    $18.95
One of the first commercial plantings of sauvignon blanc in Australia, dating back to 1982. Varietal character in the wine fluctuates somewhat, but this is clean (no sweaty armpits), the middle palate laden with ripe tropical and gooseberry fruit, and – almost against the odds – doesn’t cloy on the finish.
Region: Eden Valley, SA
Best drinking: Now-2006
Drink with: Fresh mussels

2003 Tower Estate Hunter Valley Semillon
93 points    $19
A very low pH and strong natural acidity providing a rust-proof frame for long aging. Has a spotlessly clean and crisp bouquet, then a long, lingering and intense steely palate, with herbs lurking in the background. A prayer that the corks will allow it to achieve full maturity.
Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Best drinking: 2008-2018
Drink with: Leave it in the cellar

2002 Lillydale Estate Yarra Valley Chardonnay
93 points    $19.50
A fine example of the cool growing season and small crops in the vintage. Gently complex barrel fermentation aromas drive the bouquet, but on the palate appealing citrus, melon and stone fruit flavours take over; excellent mouthfeel and intensity through to a long finish.
Region: Yarra Valley, Vic
Best drinking: Now-2009
Drink with: Avocado

2003 O’Leary Walker Watervale Riesling
94 points    $19.50
I marginally prefer this to its Polish Hill River sister wine,  a preference which is probably politically incorrect. The bouquet offers firm, focussed, herb, citrus and slate aromas, then a generous but not flabby palate, with excellent balance, mouthfeel and length. Right in the slot.
Region: Clare Valley, SA
Best drinking: Now-2013
Drink with: Seared scallops

2002 Turkey Flat Marsanne Semillon
93 points    $19.95
A blend unique to Turkey Flat and, I suspect, to Australia, and which has developed slowly but surely over the past year, with more in the tank. A touch of barrel fermentation adds spice to the lemon and mineral flavours, and the wine powers through to a strong finish.
Region: Barossa Valley, SA
Best drinking: Now-2007
Drink with: Roast turkey breast

1998 Penfolds Reserve Bin Aged Release Clare Valley Riesling
93 points    $19.99
An ancient mariner, but if all the bottles are as good as this, no problem. Glowing yellow, flecked with green; ultra-classic toast and kerosene aromas (don’t be put off by the descriptor). Abundant mid-palate, gentle lime juice flavours, are perfectly balanced by quite soft acidity on the finish.
Region: Clare Valley, SA
Best drinking: Now-2008
Drink with: Seared scallops

2003 Crabtree Riesling
93 points    $20
Thankfully, Robert Crabtree has moved to a screwcap closure, along with every other top Riesling producer in the country. Floral, lime blossom aromas to open with, then rich, luscious, mouthfilling lime and tropical fruit; at the rich end of the vintage style, and totally seductive. No holds barred, now or later, stuff.
Region: Clare Valley, SA
Best drinking: Now-2009
Drink with: Fresh asparagus with hollandaise sauce

2003 Shadowfax Viognier
92 points    $20
Viognier and I have what is best described as an uneasy relationship: the wines frequently either lack character or go right over the top, becoming oily and broad. This neatly bridges the gap, with ripe pastille, apricot and peach fruit; good length, mouthfeel and cleansing acidity.
Region: Adelaide Hills, SA
Best drinking: Now-2005
Drink with: Seafood risotto

Whites Over $20

2003 Freycinet Riesling
94 points    $21
From one of Tasmania’s foremost pinot noir producers (watch out for the superb 2002) but also with a history of first class rieslings. Intense spicy/minerally aromas lead into a super-intense, long, lemony/minerally palate, with a lingering crisp and dry finish. A cellaring special.
Region: Tasmania
Best drinking: Now-2013+
Drink with: Seared scallops

2002 Diamond Valley Yarra Valley Chardonnay
94 points    $21.50
Built around grapes supplied by Yarra Valley growers with a long relationship with Diamond Valley, the very cool vintage and low yields ideal. Fragrant but fine, the tangy bouquet has melon and citrus aromas, the palate with irresistible pure fruit; great line and length.
Region: Yarra Valley, Vic
Best drinking: Now-2008
Drink with: Coquilles St Jacques

2003 Geoff Weaver Lenswood Riesling
95 points    $22
All the Weaver white wines have the hallmark of finesse, and this is no exception. The bouquet is pure crystalline fragrance, the palate in the same mode. Zippy, lively and crisp, with flecks of chalk and slate through the fruit core of lime and apple, it has immaculate balance and length.
Region: Adelaide Hills, SA
Best drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Fresh asparagus

2002 Merum Semillon
94 points    $22
Like all well-bred semillons, has developed markedly – gaining complexity – over the past year, winning gold at the 2003 Qantas Western Australia Wines Show. The bouquet is complex, rich, stylish and tangy, the palate bursting with flavour, helped by the clever blending in of ten per cent chardonnay.
Region: Great Southern, WA
Best drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Poached scallops

2003 Ferngrove Cossack Riesling    94 points    $23
A more than convincing follow-up to the all-conquering 2002 version, underlining the symbiosis between the Frankland River subregion and riesling. A spotless, highly fragrant lime and mineral bouquet leads into a crisp, bone-dry palate, with great structure, length and finesse for the classicists.
Region: Great Southern
Best drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Steamed crab

1998 Peter Lehmann Reserve Riesling
96 points    $24
Happily follows in the footsteps of the all-conquering 1993 Riesling which ended up with a room-full of trophies. Glowing yellow-green, the bouquet is literally jam-packed with apple, lime, mineral and toast, the palate similarly rich and flooded with flavour; great balance and complexity.
Region: Barossa Valley, SA
Best drinking: Now-2008
Drink with: Chinese prawns

2000 Wellington Chardonnay
94 points    $24
Tasmanian chardonnays are seldom flashy in their youth, due in no small measure to the high levels of natural acidity the climate provides. Glowing yellow-green, this wine has developed slowly over the past three years, now with super-elegant stone fruit, citrus, the barest touch of oak, and crunchy acidity.
Region: Tasmania
Best drinking: Now-2008
Drink with: Trout gravlax

1998 Pewsey Vale The Contours Riesling
96 points    $24.95
A fascinating contrast with the Peter Lehmann riesling, the latter cork finished, this with a screwcap, and showing every bit as much development. Brassy coloured, it has potent bottle-developed kerosene aromas, the equally potent palate with long, toasty bottle-developed flavours, tightened by citrussy acidity.
Region: Eden Valley, SA
Best drinking: Now-2013
Drink with: Vegetarian

1998 Tyrrell’s Reserve Stevens Semillon
94 points    $25
Six gold medals to date for a wine just starting to seriously hit its straps is testimonial to the quality of the Stevens vineyard. Brilliant colour, and powerful herb and lanolin aromas herald a wine which is still remarkably fresh, owing in part to its spine of minerally acidity.
Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Best drinking: 2007-2017
Drink with: Blue swimmer crab

2003 Seppelt Drumborg Vineyard Riesling
97 points    $27.75
These wines mature magnificently in bottle, but I cannot remember a current vintage wine to equal this – it went straight into my shopping basket. The intensely fragrant bouquet is at once steely yet flowery; the fine lime and mineral flavours build progressively through a gloriously long palate.
Region: Henty, Vic
Best drinking: Now-2018
Drink with: Antipasto

2003 Keith Tulloch Semillon
96 points    $28
Won the trophy for Best Current Vintage Dry White Wine at this year’s Hunter Valley Wine Show. Herb, spice and lanolin aromas lead into a classic Hunter semillon, but with much more flavour and texture (a touch is barrel-fermented) than usual. Lemon, lemongrass and crunchy acidity to close.
Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Best drinking: Now-2015
Drink with: Teppanyaki seafood

2002 Cullen Sauvignon Blanc Semillon
96 points    $29
Vanya Cullen rates the 2002 as the best vintage in a decade for this wine. Multi-dimensional and complex, the barrel ferment is evident but not over the top; sweet citrus and passionfruit run through a very long palate, the lingering finish due entirely to natural, unadjusted, acidity.
Region: Margaret River, WA
Best drinking: Now-2012
Drink with: Sugar-cured tuna

2000 Metier Tarraford Vineyard Chardonnay
95 points    $32
Martin Williams crafts all his wines with great care, the emphasis on subtlety and finesse. Bright green-yellow, the wine is still youthful, developing slowly: melon and citrus aromas have a subtle oak infusion, the lovely mouthfeel provided by a gently creamy centre to the surrounding melon and citrus fruit.
Region: Yarra Valley, Vic
Best drinking: Now-2009
Drink with: Fresh abalone

2002 Shaw & Smith M3 Vineyard Chardonnay
95 points    $37
Michael Hill Smith freely acknowledges the sauvignon blanc makes itself, but not so this wine, which demands all of Martin Shaw’s considerable skills. The bouquet shows complex but not aggressive barrel ferment inputs, the melon and cashew palate supple, smooth and long, the result of sophisticated craftsmanship.
Region: Adelaide Hills, SA
Best drinking: Now-2009
Drink with: Lobster salad

2003 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling
97 points    $39
It’s nigh on impossible choosing between Grosset’s wines; in some prior years the semillon sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, pinot noir and/or Gaia have prevailed. Not so this time: The Polish Hill Riesling sweeps all before it, intense, fine and long, with great mid-palate flavour, beautiful acidity and fantastic mouthfeel.
Region: Clare Valley, SA
Best drinking: Now-2015
Drink with: Grilled whiting

1998 Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon
96 points    $44
“Two trophies, nine golds and still counting” say the advertisements, and I don’t doubt more are on the way. The clean toast and lemon-accented bouquet lead into an immaculately balanced palate with the first signs of honey and other mature flavours starting to emerge, then the lemony acidity on a great finish.
Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Best drinking: 2006-2020
Drink with: Fine fish dishes

2000 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay
96 points    $76
Notwithstanding the challenges of Yattarna, Giaconda, Petaluma tiers and so forth, Leeuwin is my choice as Australia’s best chardonnay. It always starts off life as a fine, focussed, elegant wine, slowly unfolding as it ages in bottle, building on the long and seamless fusion of nectarine, grapefruit and oak.
Region: Margaret River, WA
Best drinking: 2005-2015
Drink with: Cold smoked salmon

2000 Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay
96 points    $100
Made with same grape sourcing philosophy as Grange, taking the best cool climate grapes available each vintage. The best Yattarna so far released, with penetrating stone fruit and citrus aromas flowing through to a palate with excellent attack, line and length, the French oak seamlessly integrated throughout.
Region: South East Australia
Best drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Pan-fried veal

Reds $25 and Under

2002 Lindemans Cawarra Merlot
87 points    $7.80
Do not think this is a great wine, but two recent tastings make me rate it as great value. It is user-friendly in every way, with plenty of sweet, juicy soft red fruit flavours, and minimal tannins. A reflection of the excellent 2002 vintage in the Riverland.
Region: South Eastern Australia
Best drinking: Now
Drink with: Takeaway

2001 Carbunup Crest Cella Rage Shiraz
93 points    $12
One major gold medal after another, including the Great Australian Shiraz Challenge, combined with the price, makes this the best value wine in the Top 100. Brimming with plum, blackberry, prune, spice and chocolate, the tannins are soft, oak minimal. Available cellar door phone/fax (08) 9754 2618.
Region: Margaret River, WA
Best drinking: Now-2011
Drink with: Roast venison

2002 McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate Shiraz
89 points    $12
you will doubtless find this wine selling for much less than $12, notwithstanding its trophy at the 2003 Royal Brisbane Wine Show. Fresh and lively, driven by blackberry, plum and cherry fruit, and just enough oak and tannin, its screwcap will underwrite cellaring if you are so inclined. Smashing value.
Region: South Eastern Australia
Best drinking: Now-2007
Drink with: Aussie barbeque

2002 Western Range Old Vine Grenache
89 points    $14.30
Closed with a screwcap, part of the reason why the colour is vivid red-purple, the bouquet fragrant, the palate lively and fresh, with ripe raspberry, cherry and spice flavours, uncomplicated by oak or tannins. This is one of two wineries transforming the profile of the Perth Hills.
Region: Perth Hills, WA
Best drinking: Now-2006
Drink with: Pizza

2000 Lindemans Reserve Padthaway Cabernet Sauvignon
88 points    $14.40
One of a number of well-priced wines from Lindemans, the cheaper 2002 Bin 50 Shiraz and 2002 Bin 45 Cabernet also appealing. Clear cut and bright varietal fruit comes through strongly on both bouquet and palate, with cassis/blackcurrant running through to a creditably long finish.
Region: Padthaway, SA
Best drinking: Now-2009
Drink with: Marinated beef

2002 Warby Range Estate Durif
91 points    $15
The recent rash of durif plantings in the Riverland and Riverina areas are a testimonial to the power of the variety, amplified here at Glenrowan (and at Rutherglen). Densely coloured, it is packed with blackberry, licorice, prune and spice fruit, the generous tannins on the finish now beginning to soften
Region: Glenrowan, Vic
Best drinking: 2006-2016
Drink with: Rare rump

2002 Flying Fish Cove Margaret River Shiraz
94 points    $16
Acts as a contract winemaker for others (including Carbunup Crest) as well as producing ‘own ‘label’ wines of great quality such as this gold medal winner from 2003 Western Australia Wine Show. Abounding with black cherry, blackberry fruit, ripe tannins, it is silky smooth and long. Contact winery (08) 9755 6600.
Region: Margaret River, WA
Best drinking: Now-2012
Drink with: Ragout of beef

2000 Huntington Estate Shiraz Bin FB24
92 points    $17.50
One of the doyens of Mudgee, with vineyards up to 30 years old, and noted for the sheer honesty (and value) of its wines. Clean but complex black fruit and vanilla aromas, then attractive ripe but not jammy blackberry/cherry/raspberry fruit, plus fine tannins.
Region: Mudgee, NSW
Best drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Rump steak

2002 Annie’s Lane Clare Valley Cabernet Merlot
92 points    $19
It wouldn’t be hard for Annie’s Lane to garner four or five slots in the Top 100 year in, year out. Deeply coloured, it has powerful super-rich, concentrated and luscious blackcurrant, plum and prune fruit, ample soft tannins and oak somewhere in the depths. Great value.
Region: Clare Valley, SA
Best drinking: 2005-2015
Drink with: Ox kidney

2001 d’Arenberg d’Arry’s Original Shiraz Grenache
91 points    $19.95
This year (2003) marks d’Arry Osborne’s 50 years with the winery founded by his father in 1912; both he and the wine are original if not institutional. Complex dark fruit/plum/spice aromas, then a similarly rich and complex palate with ample structure; good tannins to close.
Region: McLaren Vale, SA
Best drinking: Now-2011
Drink with: Kangaroo fillet

2001 Wolf Blass Gold Label Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc
93 points    $23
Yet another of the top range Blass wines to use the screwcap; if ever you doubt the suitability of this closure to red wine, try this wine. It has a sophisticated, elegant and seamless marriage of fresh red and black fruits, oak and fine, supple tannins. Delicious now or in ten years.
Region: Adelaide Hills, SA
Best drinking: Now-2011
Drink with: Roast lamb

2001 Lillydale Estate Cabernet Merlot
94 points    $23.50
First tasted eight months ago, outstanding then and now. Medium-bodied, it has strong affinities with good Bordeaux reds; the aromas are pristine, ripe but not over-ripe, anchored on blackcurrant and cassis, the perfectly balanced palate with impeccable line and length, finishing with the finest tannins.
Region: Yarra Valley, Vic
Best drinking: 2006-2016
Drink with: Veal

2000 Balnaves Cabernet Merlot
93 points    $24
Pete Bissell is a highly gifted winemaker, crafting immaculate wines for both Balnaves and Majella. The bouquet has developed cedary, earthy spicy overtones to the core of blackberry and mulberry fruit, the supple but deep palate with a touch of chocolate joining all the flavours promised by the bouquet.
Region: Coonawarra, SA
Best drinking: 2005-2012
Drink with: Calf’s liver Italian style

2002 Hackersley Merlot
94 points    $24
One of the newer arrivals in the Geographe region, selling part of the grapes, and having the best bits made for itself. Has lovely raspberry and blackcurrant fruit in abundance, the palate very smooth, the tannins fine. A supremely elegant wine, wining gold at the 2003 Qantas Western Australia Wine Show.
Region: Geographe, WA
Best drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Milk-fed lamb

2002 Diamond Valley Yarra Valley Pinot Noir
93 points    $24.90
This wine and the Paringa Estate handsomely demonstrate you don’t have to pay a fortune for high quality pinot noir from a top vintage. Starting to show development, with very complex berry/sappy/oak/spice aromas and a lively, intense, savoury palate of considerable length.
Region: Yarra Valley, Vic
Best drinking: Now-2007
Drink with: Wild mushroom risotto

2002 Paringa Estate Peninsula Pinot Noir
94 points    $24.95
Former school teacher Lindsay McCall is now a true professor of pinot noir, with an exceptional intuitive feel for the variety. The bouquet has pure, vibrant and focussed fruit, the red fruit palate the hallmark length and texture of Paringa, finishing with silky fine tannins.
Region: Mornington Peninsula, Vic
Best drinking: Now-2008
Drink with: Braised duck

2001 Houghton Crofters Shiraz
93 points    $24.99
A good example of the ever-reliable Crofters range. The bouquet is complex, with an infusion of soft, toasted oak through plum and spice fruit; the long palate has abundant sweet blackberry fruit, savoury, rippling tannins and well-handled oak.
Region: Mount Barker/Ferguson Valley, WA
Best drinking: 2006-2016
Drink with: Braised beef

2002 Hewitson Ned & Henry’s Shiraz
94 points    $25
Another great wine from Dean Hewitson, finishing fermentation and maturation in French oak, and with ten per cent old vine mourvedre blended in prior to bottling. Rich blackberry, licorice and spice fruit provides velvety mouthfeel to a delicious and seductive wine. Great value; Stelvin capped.
Region: Barossa Valley, SA
Best drinking: 2006-2016
Drink with: Roast saltbush lamb

2002 Mitchell Peppertree Vineyard Shiraz
92 points    $25
It’s quickly becoming clear screwcaps are as suited to red wines as to white, slowing the rate of development and retaining fruit freshness. Deeply coloured, the wine is flooded with blackberry, licorice, and a touch of tar; excellent length and mouthfeel.
Region: Clare Valley, SA
Best drinking: 2005-2017
Drink with: Devilled kidneys

Reds over $25

2002 Shadowfax Werribee Shiraz
95 points    $26
From the estate vineyard surrounding the winery; most of the Shadowfax wines come from other cool climate regions. Dense, impenetrable colour; licorice/anise, dark plum and blackberry aromas; and a palate laden with black fruits, a touch of chocolate, and soft, dense tannins.
Region: Geelong, Vic
Best drinking: 2007-2017
Drink with: Wild game

2002 Tamar Ridge Pinot Noir
94 points    $26
Recently acquired by Gunns Limited, Tasmania’s largest timber company, bringing Dr Richard Smart on board as semi-resident viticulturist. Very deeply coloured, saturated dark plum aromas, and an immensely concentrated (but not over-extractive) palate, with layers of plum and black cherry.
Region: Tasmania
Best drinking: 2005-2010
Drink with: Venison pie

2000 Houghton Frankland River Shiraz
96 points    $28.99
A great wine from a less than perfect vintage, which continues to impress every time it its tasted. The fragrantly complex bouquet has intermingling dark cherry, spice and plum aromas; the palate adds a dash of licorice, with excellent texture, depth and mouthfeel aided by fine tannins.
Region: Great Southern, WA
Best drinking: 2004-2010
Drink with: Aged beef

2001 Port Philip Estate Pinot Noir
95 points    $30
Gold medals at the National Wine Show and the local derby, Southern Victorian Wines Show, are not the least surprising. The bouquet is still fresh and bright, with spicy/sappy red fruits, the long and lingering palate with delicious strawberry and plum flavours; great elegance.
Region: Mornington Peninsula, Vic
Best drinking: Now-2008
Drink with: Quail

2001 Wirra Wirra McLaren Vale Shiraz
94 points    $30
A toss up between this and Wirra Wirra’s top-of-the-range RSW Shiraz, gaining its place on price rather than quality. The bouquet offers seamlessly integrated blackberry, plum and oak, the supple, medium-bodied palate following suit, with the fruit offset by fine, ripe tannins.
Region: McLaren Vale, SA
Best drinking: 2005-2015
Drink with: Lamb shanks

2001 De Bortoli Yarra Valley Pinot Noir
94 points    $31
At the opposite end of the style spectrum to the Tamar Ridge, but has developed very well over the past 12 months. Very complex and fragrant cherry and strawberry aromas, the palate has a sweet fruit core surrounded by savoury, silky tannins. Strange that it hasn’t won more gold medals.
Region: Yarra Valley, Vic
Best drinking: Now-2006
Drink with: Duck casserole

2000 Barwang Special Release Merlot
94 points    $31.50
The Plantagenet Rocky Horror Vineyard Merlot is the opposite of this wine, which is a subtle as the Plantagenet is assertive, but then all the Barwang wines have a family link of subtlety. Savoury, olivaceous, earthy notes meld with fully ripe berry fruit and the finest possible tannins.
Region: Hilltops, NSW
Best drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Roast veal

2002 Farr Rising Mornington Pinot Noir
95 points    $34
Made (in Geelong) by ‘son of a gun’ Nick Farr, following in Gary Farr’s footsteps, taking select parcels of grapes from both regions. Fresh, fragrant, lively and tangy cherry aromas are mirrored in a long, vibrant and intense palate, with plum, cherry and spice; style and finesse.
Region: Mornington Peninsula, Vic
Best drinking: Now-2009
Drink with: Roast squab

2002 Henschke Johann’s Garden Grenache Mourvedre Shiraz
95 points    $34
The German-born pioneering vignerons used to call their vineyards ‘gardens’ and this wine has all the multiplicity of smells and flavours of a garden: berries, herbs, spices and tobacco aromas, the supple, smooth and elegant palate flowing effortlessly across the tongue.
Region: Barossa Valley, SA
Best drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Ragout of veal

1999 Yalumba The Signature Cabernet Shiraz
95 points    $34.95
As befits the Hill Smith family, headed by the imperious Robert Hill Smith, this label has an illustrious history dating back to 1962. Cassis, chocolate and raspberry fruit aromas and flavours fill a wine with excellent structure, weight, texture and balance; a long lingering fruit-driven finish shows the deft use of oak.
Region: Barossa Valley, SA
Best drinking: 2005-2020
Drink with: Rare roast beef

2001 Best’s Bin O Shiraz
94 points    $35
Not in the Olympian but nigh on unprocurable Best’s Thomson Family Shiraz class, but an ever-reliable evocation of Great Western terroir. Savoury, gently earthy, edges to blackberry/cherry aromas blend into a supple palate; the fruit has a very long carry, the tannins fine and soft.
Region: Grampians, Vic
Best drinking: 2005-2011
Drink with: Irish stew

2001 Domaine Chandon Green Point Reserve Pinot Noir
95 points    $37
Each vintage of the Green Point table wines from the Yarra becomes more convincing after a slightly uncertain start. Clean, fragrant red fruit, spice and forest aromas lead into a stylish and tangy palate, with a silky texture, opening like the proverbial peacock’s tail on the finish and aftertaste.
Region: Yarra Valley, Vic
Best drinking: Now-2009
Drink with: Breast of duck

2001 Plantagenet Mount Barker Shiraz
95 points    $38
From the best Great Southern vintage for many years, a winner of multiple gold medals and much critical praise. Strong, deeply coloured, it oozes blackberry, black cherry and spice aromas, the palate at once plush yet elegant, perfectly proportioned and weighted, finishing with fine, ripe tannins.
Region: Great Southern, WA
Best drinking: 2005-2011
Drink with: Saddle of hare

Plantagenet Rocky Horror Vineyard Merlot
95 points    $38
A toss up between this and the Cabernet Franc, both from a new vineyard previously inhabited by boulders which were smashed and returned to the soil. Impressive colour, bouquet, palate and finish all signal a merlot in heroic style, with layers of blackcurrant, olive and substantial, but balanced, tannins.
Region: Great Southern, WA
Best drinking: 2006-2016
Drink with: Roast kid

2001 Haan Wilhelmus
94 points    $39.50
Just so you know, a blend of 38 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 24 per cent merlot, 22 per cent cabernet franc, ten per cent malbec and six per cent petit verdot, with same attention to detail as all the Haan wines. It is laden with red and blackcurrant, mulberry, soft tannins and spicy French oak, supple and elegant.
Region: Barossa Valley, SA
Best drinking: 2005-2015
Drink with: Milk-fed lamb

2001 Kilikanoon Oracle Shiraz
94 points    $40
Last year Kilikanoon scooped the trophy pool at the Clare Valley Wine Show; this year it became the first producer to win two gold medals in the Great Australian Shiraz Challenge. The maximum possible amount of lusciously sweet red and black fruits, vanilla oak and soft tannins have been crammed into the bottle.
Region: Clare Valley, SA
Best drinking: 2007-2017
Drink with: Beef in black bean sauce

2001 Bannockburn Shiraz
96 points    $48
Gary Farr employs some of the techniques he uses for his pinot noirs, always to excellent effect. The complex bouquet ranges through spice, licorice, earth, pepper and black fruits much like Cote Rotie. The palate is at once elegant and sensual, the flavours rippling to a long finish.
Region: Geelong, Vic
Best drinking: 2006-2016
Drink with: Roast marinated venison

2000 Jamiesons Run Winemakers Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
96 points    $55
Another cabernet to prove the frailty of vintage charts. The winner of four trophies at the 2001 Limestone Coast Wine show, it has flourished since in bottle. Perfectly ripened cabernet is the base for a Bordeaux-inspired wine, still in the first flush of life, ripe tannins and French oak in restrained support.
Region: Coonawarra, SA
Best drinking: 2005-2020
Drink with: Butterfly leg of lamb

1999 Petaluma Coonawarra Merlot
95 points    $58
A wine which was excellent when first released and is, if anything, better still now. The aromatic bouquet ranges from cedar, spice and herb to sweet cherry/raspberry; the quite delicate palate is silky but replete with red fruits, supported appropriately by fine but persistent tannins on a long finish.
Region: Coonawarra, SA
Best drinking: Now-2009
Drink with: Rack of veal

2001 Yering Station Shiraz Viognier
96 points    $58
The inclusion of viognier with cool-grown shiraz is not simply a trendy fad; Australian winemakers are finding is near-magical synergy with shiraz. Bright purple-red, the fragrance leaps from the glass, red and black cherries intermingling with a suite of spices; the palate is superbly balanced and impressively long.
Region: Yarra Valley, Vic
Best drinking: 2006-2016
Drink with: Truffle risotto

2000 Vasse Felix Heytesbury
95 points    $65
A multi-blend of cabernet sauvignon, malbec, merlot, shiraz and cabernet franc which has developed extra legs over the past 12 months. A cascade of red and black fruits jostle with touches of olive, spice and leaf, giving the wine both stature and complexity; oak plays a role but in no way dominates.
Region: Margaret River, WA
Best drinking: 2005-2015
Drink with: Beef Bordelaise

1999 Saltram No. 1 Shiraz
96 points    $66.50
Sure, this is a ‘show style’- how else would it have eight gold medals on its label – but it is a very, very good one. It has an alluring, Joseph’s Coat rainbow of aromas, the palate sumptuously rich, layered and textured. Dark chocolate, dark fruits and ripe tannins ripple harmoniously through the supple palate and finish.
Region: Barossa Valley, SA
Best drinking: 2005-2019
Drink with: Rich casserole

2000 Majella The Malleea
96 points    $70
Most recently comfortably topped the Bordeaux blend class in the recent Tri Nations Wine Challenge. Young red wine is seldom as exuberantly joyful as this, fragrant cassis and cedar swirls from the glass, the exceptionally supple palate with a flawless, seamless marriage of fruit, oak and tannin.
Region: Coonawarra, SA
Best drinking: 2005-2020
Drink with: Rack of spring lamb

2001 Cullen Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot
96 points    $80
A great red wine vintage, dry but with even temperatures leading to flawless physiological ripening. Named in honour of the late Di Cullen, Vanya’s mother, its sheer class shines through the trappings of extreme youth, a controlled explosion of blackcurrant, spice and blackberry, ripe tannins and French oak.
Region: Margaret River, WA
Best drinking: 2010-2020
Drink with: Braised ox tail

2001 Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz
95 points    $90
A veritable icon, from a low yielding, single vineyard, and not made every year. Even when it is, quantities vary widely. The black fruits of the bouquet have touches of regional earth backed by subtle oak; the palate offers much sweeter flavours, mixing blackberry and cherry through to a long finish. Surprising finesse.
Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Best drinking: 2006-2021
Drink with: Rare rump steak

1998 Penfolds Grange
97 points    $400
The hype and astronomic auction prices for the Imperial bottles of this great wine are already part of history. Deep purple-red, it oozes blackberry, blackcurrant and licorice from every pore, the palate a sumptuously smooth velvet cushion of small black fruits. It will outlive anyone who can afford to buy it.
Region: South Australia
Best drinking: 2010-2040+
Drink with:  Aged fillet mignon

Australian Sparkling

NV Jacob’s Creek Chardonnay Pinot Noir
87 points    $9.95
Is there no end to the rabbits Orlando can pull out of the Jacob’s Creek hat? Every year the brand produces surprises, this time a sparkling wine with totally unexpected finesse and delicacy. The citrus and spice palate has good balance and length, presumably the reason why it claimed a double gold medal from the San Francisco Wine Fair.

NV Seppelt Fleur de Lys Chardonnay Pinot Noir Pinot Meunier
88 points    $12.90
In very different style to the Jacob’s Creek, largely because it is bottle-fermented, and also because of the inclusion of pinot meunier in the blend. Spicy, nutty aromas, then a palate with abundant flavour and complexity, the slightly sweet dosage offset by pleasing acidity on the finish.

NV Brown Brothers Pinot Noir Chardonnay
90 points    $18.30
The grapes come from the King Valley, possibly in part from Brown Brothers’ high altitude Whitlands vineyard. A fragrant, flowery, citrussy bouquet is followed by a lively, fresh, crisp and lingering palate. Seemingly not bottle-fermented, which would explain the freshness and also the two important show (Adelaide, Canberra) gold medals in 2002.

1999 Hardys Sir James Vintage Pinot Noir Chardonnay
94 points    $25.99
Winemaker Ed Carr’s brilliance is evident right through the Hardys sparkling wine range this mid-price wine has won three trophies and ten gold medals, a spectacular performance in the uncertain seas of sparkling wine judging in Australian shows. Gently nutty/bready malolactic and yeast lees aromas flow into a delicate yet complex palate, cashew and citrus providing counterparts on the long, intense finish.

1999 Domaine Chandon Blanc de Blancs
94 points    $32.95
A last minute change of heart led to the choice of this rather than the equally good 1998 Rose or 1999 Vintage Brut, in part because this wine will particularly repay cellaring. Bright yellow-green tinged, it has excellent mousse, the delicate and fresh stone fruit aromas repeated on the still light and crisp palate; the all-important length of finish is also there.

1999 Clover Hill Pipers River
95 points    $35
The base wine is a blend of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier, part matured in (old) oak casks before blending and tiraging, whereafter it is given three years on yeast lees prior to disgorgement. A classic mineral, nectarine and brioche bouquet is followed by a delicate but intense stone fruit palate, lengthened by lingering acidity.

1999 Yarrabank Cuvee
95 points    $35
An ultra-complex blend, 88 per cent from the Yarra Valley, the remainder from four other regions, blending 52.7 per cent chardonnay and 47.3 per cent pinot noir, the reserve wine from 1998 and 1997 – all unmistakably a French approach.  Light, bright straw-green, the finely structured wine has apple, stone fruit and citrus intermingling with creamy/toasty notes.

1999 Yellowglen Cuvee Victoria
95 points    $35
Upset a high class field in the recent Tri Nations Challenge (Australia, New Zealand and South Africa) emerging as a clear winner, with support from all three judges. It has excellent mousse, the bouquet a cornucopia of baker’s shop bready/yeasty aromas, the palate refocussing on punchy, crisp fruit. Confusingly, the wine is not from Victoria, but the Adelaide Hills.

Top 100 – 2002

Whites Under $20

2002 Orlando Jacob’s Creek Riesling
89 points    $9
Over many years, has consistently out-performed its price bracket, sometimes with gold medals. Light green-yellow, it has gently flowery lime blossom aromas leading into a well-balanced and structured palate with plenty of flavour. Against the trend, uses a conventional one-piece cork.
Region: South East Australia
Best drinking: Now
Drink with: Summer salads

2002 Lindemans Bin 65 Chardonnay
88 points    $9
Amazingly, has won gold medals at both the Brisbane and Adelaide Royal Wine Shows this year, against a myriad of much higher-priced contestants. The bouquet offers melon, stone fruit and the barest hint of oak; the palate is well balanced, with a touch of creaminess, and moderate fruit intensity. Clever winemaking.
Region: South East Australia
Best drinking: Now
Drink with: Pasta, chicken, you name it

2002 Plantagenet Hazard Hill Semillon Sauvignon Blanc
89 points    $11
A new second string for Plantagenet, attesting to the volume of these varieties from new plantings in Western Australia. Light straw-green, the clean and crisp aromas of lemon, gooseberry and grass flow into an easily-accessed palate, the citrussy fruit neatly balanced by a subliminal hint of sweetness.
Region: Western Australia
Best drinking: Now
Drink with: Cold seafood

2002 Grant Burge Barossa Vines Semillon Sauvignon Blanc
91 points    $11.60
The Barossa Valley is not the most likely source of a blend such as this, but Grant Burge does well, often with the more pricey Virtuoso. Rich, tropical aromas and a ripe semillon component underpin a palate with gooseberry and pineapple flavours, strongly structured and with good length.
Region: Barossa Valley, SA
Best drinking: Now
Drink with: Pasta marinara

2001 Tahbilk Marsanne
90 points    $12
Tried, true and trusty are the watch words both for Tahbilk and its marsanne, but don’t under-estimate the ability of the wine to blossom with age. The bouquet is showing the first signs of the honeysuckle and toast to come, the palate having good depth and a touch of sweet lime to lengthen the finish.
Region: Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley, Vic
Best Drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Salad Nicoise

2002 Leo Buring Clare Valley Riesling
94 points    $15
Repackaged and repositioned in the market, but still the same gold medal (Adelaide Wine Show) quality, and a Stelvin Cap to boot. Pale, bright colour, then aromas of herb, citrus and mineral are followed by a lively, long and well balanced palate with ripe citrus and touches of CO2 and toast.
Region: Clare Valley, SA
Best Drinking: Now-2012+
Drink with: Fresh asparagus and hollandaise sauce

2002 Hope Estate Semillon
92 points    $15
For those concerned about the booze bus, or the trend to high alcohol reds, the 10 degrees of this wine will come as a relief. It has considerable depth to the lemony/apply/grassy fruit of the bouquet, then a crisp and tight mouthfeel with both finesse and length. Good stuff.
Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Best Drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Tempura

2002 St Hallett Eden Valley Riesling
95 points    $16
The trophy for Best White Wine at this year’s Barossa Valley Wine Show (beating the great 1993 Peter Lehmann Riesling) puts this wine on the top shelf. Smooth, intense and seamless citrus, green apple and steely aromas come first, then a palate flooded with lime/citrus fruit providing great mouthfeel. Pure quality.
Region: Eden Valley, SA
Best Drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Carpaccio of tuna

2002 Leasingham Bin 7 Riesling
94 points    $16
A classic wine from a classic region made in a classic vintage – sounds like pure hyperbole, but it happens to be true. A clean and crisp bouquet of light citrus, spice and mineral flows into an impeccably balanced palate with all the components to guarantee (and repay) extended cellaring.
Region: Clare Valley, SA
Best Drinking: Now-2015
Drink with: Vegetable terrine

2002 Devil’s Lair Fifth Leg White
93 points    $16
A toss-up between this and the Fifth Leg Red, both right up there. This semillon sauvignon blanc chardonnay blend prevailed, with its aromatic fruit salad bouquet and well-structured palate offering tropical fruit salad balanced by lemony acidity running through to a long, cleansing finish.
Region: Margaret River, WA
Best Drinking: Now-2004
Drink with: Abalone

2000 Hardys Tintara Cellars Chardonnay
92 points    $16
Popped out of nowhere to win a gold medal at this year’s Royal Sydney Wine Show. Partial barrel fermentation and maturation gives smoky overtones to the quite intense stonefruit of the bouquet; the fruit is still tight on the long palate, the French oak subtle. Aging impressively.
Region: Adelaide Hills and McLaren Vale, SA
Best Drinking: Now-2005
Drink with: Poached green-lipped mussels

2002 Brokenwood Hunter Valley Semillon
93 points    $17
Yes, it often makes the Top 100, but it ain’t broke; like the Hope Estate, it also shows semillon’s ability to shrug off inclement vintage rain. Delicate but fragrant fresh grass, lemon zest and spice aromas lead into a crisp, mouth-tingling palate with a long, bright finish. Understated style.
Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Best Drinking: Now-2007
Drink with: Balmain bugs

2001 Riddoch Chardonnay
91 points    $17
Riddoch is the second label in the Katnook stable, but can outshine its big brother (the Riddoch Shiraz won the Jimmy Watson Trophy one year). Brilliant yellow-green, the attractively smooth bouquet has nectarine fruit woven through subtle oak, the medium-bodied palate following suit with fresh melon and nectarine fruit. Delicious.
Region: Coonawarra, SA
Best Drinking: Now-2004
Drink with: Pan-fried veal

2002 Leconfield Old Vines Riesling
94 points    $18
A reminder that there were once large plantings of riesling in Coonawarra; Leconfield itself removed all but a few rows. In typical Coonawarra fashion, the floral bouquet has lime and passionfruit, the palate combining a crisp delicacy with intense and lively flavours which precisely track the bouquet. True elegance.
Region: Coonawarra, SA
Best Drinking: Now-2007
Drink with: Seared scallops

2002 Ralph Fowler Sauvignon Blanc
95 points    $18
Fowler began his career in the Hunter Valley with Tyrrell’s, thence to Coonawarra and now in Mount Benson. The delicate bouquet has a mix of tropical and gooseberry fruit, plus a subliminal touch of oak. The palate has much more intensity, the texture significantly enhanced by fermentation in French oak. Utterly seductive.
Region: Mount Benson, SA
Best drinking: now
Drink with: Sashimi

2002 Houghton Crofters Semillon Sauvignon Blanc
94 points    $19
Both this and its sister wine, 2002 Moondah Brook Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, are standouts of the vintage. Bright, light yellow-green, the complex bouquet has ripe gooseberry fruit, and hints of lees contact and oak. The palate has great depth of ripe gooseberry and citrus fruit; a wine with attitude.
Region: Margaret River and Mount Barker, WA
Best Drinking: Now-2004
Drink with: Lemon chicken

2002 Sevenhill Cellars Riesling
95 points    $19
A new label design for this wine echoes its150-year-old Jesuitical winery home. And boy, what a wine this is. The ultra-classic tight bouquet has a steely spine and lemon/lime fruit, the palate with deliciously full flavour while retaining finesse and a crunchy dry finish. Faith not required.
Region: Clare Valley, SA
Best Drinking: Now-2012
Drink with: Grilled King George Whiting

2000 Geoff Weaver Lenswood Riesling
95 points    $20
Each time I taste this wine it gets better, although the aging process is appropriately slow. The crisp aromas of mineral, toast, apple and lime are barely changed, and there is excellent intensity and balance to the gentle mix of lime, citrus and apple fruit of the palate. Stelvin capped.
Region: Adelaide Hills, SA
Best Drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Smoked salmon

Whites Over $20

2001 Rothbury Estate Brokenback Semillon
95 points    $21
The Rothbury renaissance under the care of Chief Winemaker Neil McGuigan continues, much to the joy of traditionalists such as myself. Gleaming yellow-green, with a spotlessly clean and fragrant herb and citrus bouquet, then a palate with a classically tight structure, the wine is absolutely guaranteed to age with extreme grace.
Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Best Drinking: 2005-2021
Drink with: Smoked eel

2002 Petaluma Hanlin Hill Riesling
96 points    $21
Brian Croser believes this to be one of the best Petaluma Rieslings to date, and it’s not hard to see why. Bright, light straw-green, the very pure and seductive lime/lime blossom aromas are followed by a palate of similar purity; perfect balance and acidity mark a great wine. Terrific value.
Region: Clare Valley, SA
Best Drinking: Now-2015
Drink with: Blue swimmer crab

2002 Geoff Weaver Lenswood Sauvignon Blanc
94 points    $21
Stands alongside Shaw & Smith and Knappstein Lenswood as the foremost producers of sauvignon blanc in the Adelaide Hills, all revelling in the cool 2002 vintage. Typical delicate gooseberry aromatics lead into a palate with balanced and focussed sweet gooseberry fruit, then a crisp, dry finish. Exemplary varietal character.
Region: Adelaide Hills, SA
Best Drinking: Now-end 2003
Drink with: Sushi and sashimi

2002 Cascabel Eden Valley Riesling
96 points    $22
The tiny (2000-case) winery of Susana Fernandez and Duncan Ferguson is rapidly making a name for itself with an eclectic range of wines. An intensely aromatic lime/lime blossom bouquet is followed by a very intense and complex palate offering a marvellous mix of lime, apple and spice. Outstanding
Region: Eden Valley, SA
Best Drinking: Now-2012
Drink with: Stir-fried prawns

2002 Cape Mentelle Semillon Sauvignon Blanc
95 points    $22.40
A fifty/fifty blend of the two varieties which is partially barrel-fermented, and is one of the most reliable examples, year-in, year-out. The complex herb and spice fruit of the bouquet is followed by intense and powerful flavours of herb, citrus and gooseberry, the oak subtle throughout. Gold plated.
Region: Margaret River, WA
Best Drinking: Now-2005
Drink with: Anything Asian

2001 Domaine Chandon Green Point Vineyards Chardonnay
95 points    $23
Having initially used the Green Point name only for its exported wines, Domaine Chandon is now introducing it domestically. Bright yellow-green; rich nectarine and melon fruit combines with neatly judged French oak on the bouquet, then a fresh, silky smooth, nectarine-accented, long palate. Stylish stuff.
Region: Yarra Valley, Vic
Best Drinking: Now-2006
Drink with: Free range chicken

2002 Suckfizzle Augusta Stella Bella Sauvignon Blanc
94 points    $23
An outrageous name and striking, avant garde (but beautiful) labelling gives a clue to the two semi-silent partners in the business. Striking straw-green, then a bouquet ranging through grass, herb, flint and a hint of smoke, the spotlessly clean palate leaving the mouth with a great aftertaste. Gulp, don’t sip.
Region: Margaret River WA
Best Drinking: Now-2003
Drink with: Smart brasserie food

2001 Yalumba Eden Valley Viognier
94 points    $23
Yalumba has been on the Viognier learning curve for longer than any other producer (except for Elgee Park in the Mornington Peninsula). The smooth, enticing, seamless aromas of ripe fruit and spice flow into a palate with apricot, citrus and honey flavours which easily carry the 14.5 degrees alcohol. A flavour bomb.
Region: Eden Valley, SA
Best drinking: now
Drink with: Creamy pasta

2002 Henschke Lenswood Green’s Hill Riesling
96 points    $24.80
It’s a strange quirk that a Henschke white wine should be selected, rather than one of its reds, but this wine is exceptional. Fragrant, flowery lime and passionfruit aromas are followed by a deliciously lingering, intense and silky palate tied up with a bow of minerally acidity to underwrite its future.
Region: Adelaide Hills, SA
Best Drinking: Now-2010+
Drink with: Antipasto

1999 Ashton Hills Chardonnay
94 points    $25
Stephen George makes some of Australia’s finest and elegant wines at Ashton Hills, and its most powerful reds at Wendouree: a man for all seasons. Glowing yellow-green; complex barrel-ferment aromas surround the nectarine, fig, melon and citrus fruit of the bouquet, the palate adding cashew and tight European acidity.
Region: Adelaide Hills, SA
Best Drinking: Now-2009
Drink with: Grilled lobster

2002 Grosset Semillon Sauvignon Blanc
96 points    $29.50
I know it ought to be one of Jeffrey Grosset’s superb rieslings to gain selection; it just happened this way (and not for the first time). Lively, pristine aromas of gooseberry and green apple introduce a wine which literally dances on the tongue through to a long finish. All class.
Region: Clare Valley and Adelaide Hills, SA
Best Drinking: Now preferably, or to 2007
Drink with: Shellfish

1996 Taylors St Andrews Riesling
95 points    $35
A wine which showed tremendous character earlier in its life, and has built on that start. The colour glows from within, the bouquet offering a tantalising mix of lime, pear and apple with a touch of Alsace-like steel. The powerful, focussed palate is followed by a long, lingering aftertaste.
Region: Clare Valley. SA
Best Drinking: Now-2011
Drink with: Asparagus risotto

2001 Howard Park Chardonnay
96 points    $35
Winemaker Michael Kerrigan is hell-bent on moving to Stelvin for all Howard Park wines, and used it with this one. The fine, elegant and fruit-driven bouquet of citrus and melon is inevitably followed by a fine and perfectly modulated palate, with oak purely background support. Lingering delicacy.
Region: Albany and Porongurups, Great Southern, WA
Best Drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Fish quenelles in white sauce

2001 Moorilla Estate Reserve Chardonnay
95 points    $38.50
The changing of the winemaking guard at Moorilla Estate seems to have had no adverse effect. Intense grapefruit and stonefruit aromas are matched by precisely balanced and integrated oak, the palate shifting ever so subtly to nectarine and citrus which drive the wine through to a long, stylish finish.
Region: Tasmania
Best Drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Fresh, slow-cooked Tasmanian salmon

2000 Hardys Eileen Hardy Chardonnay
95 points    $40
Sourced from whichever cool regions of Southern Australia which provide the best material each year. A complex array of barrel ferment and tangy fruit aromas literally leap from the glass, while the palate is still fresh, with tangy citrus and nectarine fruit to the fore, high quality French oak in the background.
Region: Tasmania and Yarra Valley, Vic
Best Drinking: Now-2008
Drink with: Turkey breast

1997 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon
96 points    $42
The Lovedale Vineyard is the greatest source of semillon in the Hunter, although the wine is only intermittently produced under this label. Glowing yellow-green, the complex and powerful bouquet has a touch of French white Bordeaux about it, the powerful, intense palate likewise crammed with character. The best.
Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Best Drinking: Now-2017
Drink with: Baked fish, Chinese-style

2000 Tyrrell’s Vat 47 Chardonnay
95 points    $45
The 30th vintage of Vat 47, a wine which pioneered modern chardonnay in Australia and has never lost its icon status. The bouquet is building complexity around its melon, fig and stone fruit core, the palate likewise adding character to its mix of nectarine, stone fruit, cream and cashew, the oak positive but controlled.
Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Best Drinking: Now-2005
Drink with: White Rocks veal

1999 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay
97 points    $75
When I first tasted this wine, I lost no time in buying some. Brilliant pale straw-green, the restrained barrel ferment and delicate fruit of the bouquet gives no hint of the 14.5 degrees alcohol, nor does the youthful, vibrant grapefruit, nectarine and melon fruit of the palate. Destined to be one of the greatest Leeuwins.
Region: Margaret River, WA
Best Drinking: Now-2019+
Drink with: Tempura

Reds Under $25

2001 Stonehaven Stepping Stone Cabernet Sauvignon
91 points    $12
Made at Hardys Stonehaven winery in Padthaway, and another remarkable bargain. Strong red-purple, its bouquet has abundant sweet cassis/blackcurrant fruit, the palate replicating this fruit spectrum. Oak has been used less lavishly than in many Hardy family reds, which is all to the good.
Region: Coonawarra, SA
Best drinking: 2003-2010
Drink with: Lamb casserole

2001 De Bortoli Windy Peak Pinot Noir
89 points    $12
The whole bag of winemaking techniques including cold maceration, whole bunches and French oak provide a quality pinot at an unbelievably low price. The plum cherry and spice aromas and flavours present when the wine was released early this year have developed all the complexity one could wish for. Pure serendipity.
Region: Southern Victoria (including Yarra Valley)
Best drinking: Now-2004
Drink with: Chinese pork ribs

2000 Orlando Jacob’s Creek Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
92 points    $15
Has impressed every vintage since being added on to the basic Jacob’s Creek range several years ago. Healthy red-purple; sweet cassis fruit, even a hint of jam, drives the bouquet, flowing logically into a palate with a great volume of ripe blackberry and blackcurrant fruit, controlled oak and tannins.
Region: South East Australia
Best drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Braised ox-tail

2001 Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet
90 points    $15
An annual rite of passage, and very much in the tradition of its predecessors. The bouquet has good depth with dark berry fruits and a dash of sweet oak, a theme carried on through the generous plum and blackberry fruit of the palate, accompanied by supple tannins and controlled oak. If it ain’t broke …
Region: South East Australia
Best drinking: Now-2008
Drink with: Any red meat, cheese

2000 Seppelt Victorian Premium Reserve Shiraz
92 points    $16
Time will tell whether yet another overhaul of the Seppelt brands and labels will achieve its aim; the quality of the wine deserves it. Dark berry, plum and dark chocolate aromas flow into a smooth, supple and rounded palate, with plum and cherry fruit, fine, soft tannins. Excellent finish and aftertaste.
Region: Victoria
Best drinking: Now-2010+
Drink with: Braised beef

2000 Seppelt Victorian Premium Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
93 points    $16
The selection of the twin wines was pure happenstance; I taste the wines in varietal blocks. Deep but bright red-purple for a start, then rich, ripe cassis varietal fruit and subtle oak on the bouquet is followed by a succulently ripe, fruit-driven palate. An irresistible bargain.
Region: Victoria
Best drinking: Now-2012+
Drink with: Lamb shanks

2000 Annie’s Lane Shiraz
94 points    $18
Lightning can indeed strike twice; two Seppelt and two Annie’s Lane wines, each pair too good to separate. Strongly coloured, deep, dark berry/black cherry fruit aromas are followed by a voluminous palate with lovely texture to its blackberry and cherry fruit. Has improved dramatically over the last year.
Region: Clare Valley, SA
Best drinking: 2004-2014
Drink with: Grilled porterhouse

1999 Annie’s Lane Old Vine Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre
94 points    $18
Don’t ask me why this trophy-winning wine should still be available; perhaps the Clare Valley is not usually associated with Rhone-style blends. Complex spice, blackberry and licorice aromas are echoed on the particularly well-balanced palate and delicious aftertaste. Trust me; go for it.
Region: Clare Valley, SA
Best drinking: Now-2009
Drink with: Beef in red wine sauce

1999 Montrose Mudgee Black Shiraz
94 points    $19
Multiple gold medals at Mudgee Wine Shows, and the Trophy for Best Under $25 Wine at the 2002 Great Australian Shiraz Challenge. Still vivid red-purple, a complex bouquet of berry/cherry/plum/spice is followed by a palate with perfectly integrated fruit and vanillin oak, plus gently savoury tannins.
Region: Mudgee, NSW
Best drinking: Now-2009
Drink with: Steak and kidney pie

2001 Primo Estate il briccone Shiraz Sangiovese
92 points    $20
A thoroughly fashionable Italianate blend of predominantly shiraz and sangiovese with lesser amounts of barbera, nebbiolo and cabernet sauvignon. Scented, savoury, spicy dark berry aromas lead into a powerful palate with definite Italian overtones coming from its firm structure and lingering, savoury flavours and tannins. Go Joe (Grilli).
Region: South Australia
Best drinking: 2003-2008
Drink with: Anything Italian

2000 Lake Breeze Bernoota
94 points    $21
Another wine to have flourished in bottle over the past year. A blend of 60 per cent shiraz, 40 per cent cabernet sauvignon, the complex bouquet has a range of dark small berries, spice, chocolate and cedar, the palate evolving into ever greater richness of dark fruits, chocolate and ripe tannins. Irresistible.
Region: Langhorne Creek, SA
Best drinking: 2004-2010
Drink with: Braised beef

2001 Wirra Wirra Church Block
93 points    $21.50
An illustrious blend of 50 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 30 per cent shiraz and 20 per cent merlot which spends 18 months in French oak. Strong, bright red-purple; the solid bouquet has a mix of dark berry and regional chocolate fruit, the richly textured and structured palate with abundant flavour. Keeps the faith.
Region: McLaren Vale, SA
Best drinking: 2004-2009
Drink with: Pasta Bolognese

2000 Leasingham Bin 56 Cabernet Malbec
93 points    $22
A wine with a great history (the 1971 still superb) and a testament to the synergy of the cabernet malbec blend in the Clare Valley; spends 18 months in French and American oak. Blackcurrant and plum aromas are matched by the generous, mouthfilling mid-palate sweet fruit of the malbec, the cabernet adding authority to the finish.
Region: Clare Valley, SA
Best drinking: 2004-2014
Drink with: Venison ragout

2001 Seville Estate Pinot Noir
94 points    $23.50
Trendily bottled unfiltered, not an easy task with pinot noir, but seen by some as a passport to authenticity. By the standards of pinot, the colour is quite deep, the bouquet a complex array of smoky oak, plum and a touch of stem. The palate follows suit, with complex dark plum and a hint of game.
Region: Yarra Valley, Vic
Best drinking: Now-2007
Drink with: Rare breast of squab

2001 Diamond Valley Vineyards Yarra Valley Pinot Noir
93 points    $24
The ‘blue label’ is made from 100 per cent Yarra Valley contract-grown (rather than estate-grown) pinot. Excellent purple-red; fragrant spicy plum and toasty oak aromas lead to a complex and rich palate with spicy plum and smoky bacon oak flavours. A died-in-the-wool classic.
Region: Yarra Valley, Vic
Best drinking: Now-2007
Drink with: Game pie

2000 Sevenhill Cellars St Ignatius
93 points    $24
A Bordeaux-style blend of 44 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 26 per cent merlot, 17 per cent malbec and 13 per cent cabernet franc. Medium red-purple; an appealing blend of rich, ripe, dark fruits and gentle oak aromas, then a palate with great texture and mouthfeel, showing full, dark berry fruit, vanillin oak and tannins. Heavenly.
Region: Clare Valley, SA
Best drinking: 2004-2014
Drink with: Braised ox cheek

Reds Over $25

2000 Zema Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
95 points    $25.65
Zema Estate never disappoints with its wines, wines which truly express the terroir from which they come. Deep red-purple, the bouquet is redolent with sweet blackcurrant/cassis fruit; the harmonious texture and flavour caresses the mouth, with all the components of ripe cassis, gentle oak, and ripe, rounded tannins in perfect balance.
Region: Coonawarra, SA
Best drinking: 2004-2015+
Drink with: Barbecued leg of lamb

2000 Wellington Pinot Noir
94 points    $28
Andrew Hood eschews complicated winemaking tricks for his pinots, relying instead on protecting the inherent quality of the grapes. The gently sweet, ripe bouquet has a mix of spice, strawberry and cherry aromas which drive the seductive cherry and spice palate; a lovely, free-flowing wine.
Region: Tasmania
Best drinking: Now-2006
Drink with: Venison fillet

2000 De Bortoli Yarra Valley Pinot Noir
94 points    $29
This was an outstanding vintage for pinot, and De Bortoli didn’t miss the opportunity. The winemaking team has worked hard to build the structure and complexity of a pinot which is going from strength to strength, with a mix of primary plum fruit and secondary savoury/foresty characters starting to build in the long palate and finish.
Region: Yarra Valley, Vic
Best drinking: Now-2006
Drink with: Duck casserole

2001 Moorilla Estate Black Label Pinot Noir
94 points    $29.50
The 2001 vintage in Tasmania may yet rival the great 2000; global warming has its upsides for some parts of the world. Sumptuous dark plum fruit aromas, sweet and intense, flow into a palate overflowing with ripe (but not jammy) fruit, held together by good structure and fine tannins. Top drawer.
Region: Tasmania
Best drinking: Now-2009
Drink with: Duck confit

2000 Wirra Wirra McLaren Vale Shiraz
95 points    $29.50
A perennial favourite which exceeded itself in 2000, not regarded as a particularly good vintage in McLaren Vale. Bright red-purple, the bouquet ranges through berry, earth, spice, cedar and regional chocolate, and the palate picks up all those characters. Supple and round, the mouthfeel is great, as is the overall flavour.
Region: McLaren Vale, SA
Best drinking: 2004-2014
Drink with: Lamb shanks

2000 Scotchmans Hill Shiraz
95 points    $29.50
A new arrival in the Scotchmans Hill portfolio, made from recent estate plantings at Geelong, and promising much for the riper vintages. An exotic array of licorice, spice, blackberry and cherry aromas and flavours are the fulcrum of a wine with excellent texture and structure, drawing on fine tannins and judiciously handled oak.
Region: Geelong, Vic
Best drinking: 2003-2008
Drink with: Lasagne

2001 Elsewhere Vineyard Pinot Noir
94 points    $30
It was very difficult to choose between this wine and the Elsewhere Bay of Eight; greater availability tipped the scales. The bouquet has a fragrant array of plum, spice and red berry aromas, but the long, silky and intense palate is even better, with a wonderfully delicate, gossamer-like, mouthfeel. To die for.
Region: Tasmania
Best drinking: Now-2007
Drink with: Wild mushroom risotto

2000 Port Phillip Estate Reserve Shiraz
94 points    $30
It’s a strange world when a Mornington shiraz prevails over a pinot noir from the same winery, but this is cool climate shiraz at its best. Complex, multi-spiced aromatics lead into a palate with black fruits, bitter chocolate, licorice and spice flavours; soft, fluffy tannins provide great texture.
Region: Mornington Peninsula, Vic
Best drinking: 2005-2015
Drink with: Braised oxtail

2000 Rosemount Estate Orange Vineyard Merlot
94 points    $31
The high altitude, cool climate vineyards around Orange produce elegant wines, both white and red. This lovely example has fresh berry fruit plus hints of olive and herb on the bouquet, the palate showing the same focussed varietal character, scoring for its length, balance and fine, savoury tannins.
Region: Orange, NSW
Best drinking: 2004-2009
Drink with: Osso bucco

2000 Haan Shiraz Prestige
95 points    $35
A hair’s breadth separated this wine and the Haan Wilhelmus bordeaux blend, also very fine. Dark deep red, there are complex spicy/cedary overtones to the ripe plum of the bouquet, which unfolds into a luscious plum and prune flavoured palate; expert winemaking has avoided over-extraction.
Region: Barossa Valley, SA
Best drinking: 2003-2013
Drink with: Jugged hare

1999 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Old Paddock and Old Hill Shiraz
94 points    $35
A Hunter classic, the grapes coming from two estate vineyards planted in the 1880s and 1920s. The fragrant bouquet has dark cherry and regional nuances of leather and earth, the elegant and silky palate with finely balanced savour cherry fruit, tannins and oak. Will outlive many, myself included.
Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Best drinking: 2004-2024+
Drink with: Roast veal

2000 Craiglee Shiraz
95 points    $38
A winery with a great 19th century history, and an equally great 21st century reputation for its shiraz. Clean, bright red cherry fruit, a touch of spice and gentle oak on the bouquet, then (by Craiglee standards) a voluptuously rich, ripe and supple palate. Seriously under priced, seriously good.
Region: Sunbury, Vic
Best drinking: 2005-2020
Drink with: Osso bucco

1998 Seppelt St Peters Shiraz
97 points    $41
From the vineyard adjacent to the Great Western winery planted in the 1920s. Deep red-purple, rich blackberry, black cherry and spice aromas matched by controlled French oak, flow into an opulently rich and luscious palate flooded with black cherry fruit; ripe tannins sustain the long finish. Eureka.
Region: Grampians, Vic
Best drinking: 2003-2025+
Drink with: Braised ox cheek

2000 Turkey Flat Shiraz
95 points    $42
Made from 1847 estate plantings, and must surely contend for historical pride of place, notwithstanding the claims of others. Smooth, plum and black cherry fruit on the bouquet, then a supple, smooth palate with black fruits, spice, cedar and vanilla. A masterpiece of understatement.
Region: Barossa Valley, SA
Best drinking: 2004-2024+
Drink with: Venison

1998 Murdock Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon
95 points    $42
A long-term Coonawarra grape grower venturing into small-scale winemaking with the great 1998 vintage. Strong red-purple, the rich, ripe dense bouquet ranges through blackberry, mulberry and chocolate aromas merging into a mouthfilling mix of blackcurrant fruit and high quality oak on the palate.
Region: Coonawarra, SA
Best drinking: 2003-2018
Drink with: Rack of lamb

1999 Leasingham Classic Clare Cabernet Sauvignon
96 points    $46
Festooned with trophies and gold medals from top shows, which comes as no surprise, for this is the big end of town. Dense red-purple, massively concentrated fruit has soaked up the new French oak on the bouquet, the palate with dense black fruits and chocolate; yet well balanced. Monumental.
Region: Clare Valley, SA
Best drinking: 2004-2024
Drink with: Game casserole

2000 Knappstein Lenswood Vineyards Pinot Noir
95 points    $47
From the Knappstein family winery at Lenswood, and has lived up to all the potential it showed early in its life, and indeed has some way to go yet. The hue is still good, the aromas a mix of spice, cedar and plum which feed into an intensely rich palate of cedar, plum and forest. A pinot stayer.
Region: Adelaide Hills, SA
Best drinking: Now-2008
Drink with: Wild mushroom risotto

1999 Tatachilla Foundation Shiraz
96 points    $49.50
The top wine (of 217 entries) and trophy winner at the 2002 Visy Board Great Australian Shiraz Challenge. A year ago, the slightly assertive oak stood out, but no more. Great colour, then dark berry, licorice, leather and spice aromas flow into a rich, complex palate, with fruit, oak and tannins in harmonious abundance.
Region: McLaren Vale, SA
Best drinking: 2004-2020
Drink with: Game pie

2001 Freycinet Pinot Noir
95 points    $50
Arguably the most consistent producer of pinot noir in Tasmania, benefiting from a unique amphitheatre site and low yields. Strong purple-red, the complex bouquet opens with deep plum, then touches spice, forest and mint. The luscious and powerful palate has black plum/black cherry and spice, then background tannins.
Region: East Coast, Tas
Best drinking: Now-2008+
Drink with: Jugged hare

2000 Yering Station Reserve Pinot Noir
95 points    $55
Won the trophy for Best Pinot Noir (all countries) at the 2002 London International Wine and Spirit Competition. Strong red-purple, smoky/charry oak is an integral part of both bouquet and palate, but is settling down against the background of an intense, complex, foresty palate in Burgundian mould.
Region: Yarra Valley, Vic
Best drinking: 2002-2007
Drink with: Roast squab

2000 Hanging Rock Winery Heathcote Shiraz
95 points    $55
One of the gold medal winners at the 2002 Visy Board Great Australian Shiraz Challenge. Deeply coloured; abundant dark plum, black cherry and vanilla aromas swirl from the glass, the palate rich in raspberry and plum fruit, the oak (very obvious at the start of the year) settling down impressively.
Region: Heathcote, Vic
Best drinking: 2005-2012
Drink with: Roast venison

2000 Petaluma Coonawarra
95 points    $59
An acknowledged classic, created with a clear but different vision to most top-end Coonawarra reds. Vivid purple-red, the bouquet is satin smooth, with perfectly integrated red currant/cassis fruit and French oak, the supple, round, medium-bodied palate again showing impeccable balance and integration of fruit and oak. Iron glove, velvet fist.
Region: Coonawarra, SA
Best drinking: 2005-2020
Drink with: Saddle of lamb

2000 Pipers Brook Vineyard The Lyre Pinot Noir
97 points    $69.30
From a single site, chosen as the best of an exceptional vintage, oozing class but with its best years still in front of it. Bright purple-red, the clean, power-laden bouquet of complex dark plum is followed by a palate flooded with fruit, yet retains finesse; very fine tannins. Ultimate quality.
Region: Northern Tasmania
Best drinking: Now-2012
Drink with: Coq au vin

2000 Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot    95 points    $75
One of Australia’s true benchmark wines, broodingly powerful in its youth, but slowly unfolding with age. Deeply coloured, the small red berry fruits and subtle oak of the bouquet give little hint of the lush red and black fruits of the palate, the powerful tannins showing the first signs of softening. Great blood lines.
Region: Margaret River, WA
Best drinking: 2008-2018
Drink with: Infinite patience

1999 Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot
96 points    $75
From the wonderful 1999 vintage; 49 per cent Great Southern cabernet sauvignon, 24 per cent Margaret River merlot and 27 per cent Pemberton merlot; two years in French oak. Rich, sweet crushed berry aromas and excellent oak lead into a palate bounding with red fruits, supported by convincing oak and tannin inputs.
Region: Western Australia
Best drinking: 2004-2014
Drink with: Lamb fillet

1998 McWilliam’s 1877 Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz
96 points    $85
A super-premium blend of Coonawarra cabernet and Hilltops shiraz to celebrate McWilliams’s 125th anniversary, with seven gold medals to its credit. Deeply coloured, the very complex bouquet of blackberry, plum, spice and integrated French oak leads into a velvety textured palate with great depth of dark fruit flavour; impeccable balance.
Region: Hilltops, NSW and Coonawarra, SA
Best drinking: 2003-2013+
Drink with: Slow-cooked rib of beef

1999 Houghton Jack Mann
97 points    $90
A blend of cabernet sauvignon and malbec from Houghton’s Frankland River Justin Vineyard, a true tribute to the wine style of the late Jack Mann. Dense purple-red, the rich and concentrated bouquet oozes sweet blackcurrant/cassis, the huge, ultra-concentrated fruit of the palate balanced by appropriately firm tannins and lavish oak.
Region: Great Southern, WA
Best drinking: 2009-2029+
Drink with: Leave it in the cellar

2000 Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz
96 points    $90
A monument to what can be achieved with shiraz in the utterly perverse climate of the Hunter Valley. Deep red-purple; prune, dark fruits and oak interplay on the bouquet, leading into a sumptuous yet powerful, multi-layered palate of blackberry and dark plum; almost unrecognisable since first bottled.
Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Best drinking: 2007-2027
Drink with: Char-grilled rump

Australian Sparkling

NV Orlando Jacob’s Creek Chardonnay Pinot Noir
8 points    $10
Bright, fresh and breezy, ready to pop at the least excuse. Light yellow-green, the citrussy/lemony aromas are direct, even if a little simple; the palate is smooth and clean, with lively citrussy flavours and a subliminal touch of cashew aiding the mouthfeel.

NV Hardys Sir James Cuvee Brut
90 points    $15
There is no question BRL Hardy has a death grip on all sectors of the Australian sparkling wine market. Straw-bronze, with good mousse, the complex, high-toned bouquet offers crisp stonefruit and citrus aromas, the harmonious and lingering palate with good balance.

1998 Domaine Chandon Tasmanian Cuvee
94 points    $32
A 50/50 blend of chardonnay and pinot noir from the Tolpuddle Vineyard in the Coal River area of Southern Tasmania. Light to medium yellow-straw, fine aromas of stonefruit and brioche lead into a crisp, long, elegant yet intense apple and citrus palate, completed by minerally acidity on the dry finish. Three and a half years on lees.

1998 Yarrabank Cuvee
95 points    $35
First tasted shortly after it was first disgorged, showing once again the benefit of a year or more cork age. Medium straw-green, the clean, aromatic bouquet has green apple, spice, citrus and bready aromas, the palate with fresh citrus and apple fruit and crisp acidity; developing slowly but surely.

1995 Jansz Late Disgorged
96 points    $39
A blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, aged in magnums and then disgorged into 750ml bottles. Brilliant green-yellow, tight, bright aromas of citrus, pear, apple and spice lead into an exceptionally fine and focussed palate, citrus-dominated but not at all green. Great value.

NV Hanging Rock Winery Macedon Cuvee IX
94 points    $40
The comparison with Bollinger is inevitable; both wines have a somewhat unorthodox, aldehyde-based background to their immense complexity, and both polarise opinion. Medium to full straw-gold, the very complex bouquet has abundant, spicy, bready, biscuity aromas, the rich palate providing more and more of the same.

1997 Freycinet Radenti Sparkling
95 points    $45
A blend of estate-grown chardonnay and pinot noir which spends three years on yeast lees, and named after Freycinet winemaker Claudio Radenti. Light straw-green, clear citrus and nectarine aromas and flavours drive a seductive wine with great harmony, mouthfeel and balance.

1997 Hardys Arras Chardonnay Pinot Noir
96 points    $50
A blend of Tasmanian and Yarra Valley grown grapes, literally festooned with trophies and gold labels medals. Light straw-green, the elegant bouquet shows bready autolysis from the prolonged lees contact. The exceptionally fine and intense palate has a great finish and even better aftertaste. The epitome of Australian sparkling wine.

Top 100 – 2001

Whites under $20

2001 De Bortoli Sacred Hill Semillon Chardonnay
86 points, $5.50
No other country could produce a wine with so much flavour and character at this price. Light to medium yellow-green, it has surprisingly fragrant tangy/lemony aromas which reappear in abundance in the tangy/tropical fruit of the palate, which also has good acidity and length.
Region: Griffith, NSW
Drink now
Drink with: Any seafood

2001 Orlando Jacob’s Creek Chardonnay
87 points, $8
In the absence of Lindemans Bin 65 Chardonnay, this was a near-inevitable choice, offering remarkable value. Light green-yellow, the clean bouquet features subtle oak on more than adequate fruit, repeated in the mouth with plenty of sweet melon/stonefruit flavour and a nicely judged flick of oak.
Region: South East Australia
Drink now
Drink with: Whatever takes your fancy

2001 Wolf Blass Eaglehawk Riesling
92 points, $9.95
Sensational value, edging out some higher-pointed but more expensive Blass (and other) Rieslings. The aromatic bouquet ranges through spice, mineral, talc, lime and passionfruit; the fresh, clean and lively palate literally dances on the tongue, but avoids excessive CO2 spritz. Already a gold medal winner.
Region: South Australia
Best drinking: Now-2006
Drink with: Asparagus

2001 Houghton White Burgundy
87 points, $10.50
The long-term track record of this wine, and its gold-plated guarantee of improvement as it ages in the cellar, make it a mandatory selection. Fragrant, distinct passionfruit aromas are replicated with the gentle tropical/passionfruit flavours of the finely structured, clean palate. Keep a few bottles to see for yourself.
Region: Western Australia
Best drinking: Now-2007
Drink with: Fish, chicken or veal

2001 McWilliam’s Hanwood Chardonnay
88 points, $11.50
McWilliam’s has got this wine down to a fine art, using a clever mix of large volume making techniques and smaller percentage of sophisticated hand making. Thus you find smooth melon and nectarine fruit coupled with creamy, nutty nuances and a touch of oak, all adding depth and complexity.
Region: South East Australia
Drink now
Drink with: Fresh pasta

2001 Garrett Andrew Garrett Chardonnay
88 points, $13.50
This is the Beringer Blass Garret brand, sourced from grapes grown hither and thither. The bouquet is complex, with nutty/smoky/cashew aromas adding interest; the palate has length and balance, offering gentle fruit, oak and acidity. Clever winemaking has invested average base material with an extra dimension.
Region: South East Australia
Best drinking: Now-2003
Drink with: KFC

2001 Annie’s Lane Riesling
93 points, $13.50
One of the many Clare Rieslings to adopt the Stelvin cap; for other Riesling notes I shall simply say ‘Stelvin’ where this closure is used. Light but brilliant green-yellow, with fragrant aromas of lime, passionfruit and apple blossom, the excellent palate is tightened up by precisely judged acidity on the finish.
Region: Clare Valley, SA
Drink now
Drink with: Summer salad

1998 Dalfarras Marsanne
90 points, $13.95
Both in the Rhone Valley and Australia, Marsanne has put beyond doubt the benefits of long-term cellaring. Right now, the bouquet has closed up a bit; but the palate is hallmark stuff, with honeysuckle and dried flowers, then moving through to a crisp, firm and long finish.
Region: Goulburn Valley, Vic
Best drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Smoked trout

2001 Primo Estate la biondina Colombard
92 points, $14.50
Joe Grilli must be able to work his magic with this wine in his sleep, so reliable is it. Excellent green-yellow, the fresh, lively and tangy bouquet with its citrus/mineral mix reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc, is followed by an abundantly flavoured but fresh palate with a twist of spritz.
Region: Adelaide Plains, SA
Drink now
Drink with: Shellfish

2001 Jim Barry Watervale Riesling
92 points, $14.95
Stelvin. Sourced from the famous Florita Vineyard of Leo Buring purchased by Jim Barry some years ago. Bright light green-yellow, the smooth bouquet has sweet lime juice aromas, the palate fresh, well balanced with attractive lime and lemon flavours, and a lingering, almost silky finish. Should develop quickly.
Region: Clare Valley, SA
Best drinking: Now-2007
Drink with: Salmon and asparagus terrine

2001 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Chardonnay
92 points, $16
Oh dear; first-class Coonawarra Chardonnay, ditto French oak; ditto skilled winemaking and we end up with a $16 price tag. There is abundant rich stonefruit and melon varietal aroma and flavour, yet a restrained complexity, particularly with the nutty/creamy barrel ferment nuances to the palate. Lucky you.
Region: Coonawarra, SA
Best drinking: Now-2003
Drink with: Robe lobster

2001 Brokenwood Semillon
94 points, $17
A Swatch watch operation engineered by Iain Riggs, and didn’t miss the opportunities of the classic 2001 Hunter semillon vintage. Bright mineral, grass and herb aromas expand in the mouth, with gently sweet fruit on the mid-palate providing exemplary balance right through to the lingering finish.
Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Best drinking: Now-2006
Drink with: Balmain bugs

1998 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon
94 points, $17.50
One of these years Elizabeth will be dethroned, but not yet, notwithstanding the shrinking gap between vintage and release. Bright yellow-green, the herb and grass aromas of youth are already being joined by the first signs of honey and toast, while acidity, emphasised by diminishing spritz, will guarantee the future.
Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Best drinking: Now-2008
Drink with: Pan-fried veal

2001 Alkoomi Riesling
94 points, $19
Great Southern Riesling stands alongside that of the Clare and Eden Valleys as Australia’s best, and this is an excellent example. Elegant, fine, clean and flowery lime aromas show no signs of slow ferment (sometimes a problem), the palate equally fine and having the intensity and length to underwrite a long future.
Region: Great Southern, WA
Best drinking: 2002-2012
Drink with: Salad Nicoise

2001 Sevenhill Cellars Riesling
95 points, $19.95
Great Southern may be a challenger to the Clare Valley, but wines such as this convincingly answer that challenge. Light green-yellow, it has a classic mix of lime, mineral, toast and spice, the fruit flavours exploding on the palate, giving the wine great length and balance.
Region: Clare Valley, SA
Best drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Sashimi

2001 Tamar Ridge Riesling
95 points, $19.95
The performance of this wine since 1998 has been little short of spectacular. Pale green-yellow, the crisp, clean mineral/herb/apple bouquet is followed by a palate with the Tamar Ridge hallmark intensity of lime and apple flavour. Faultless balance and structure.
Region: Northern Tasmania
Best drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Blue fin tuna

2000 Wellington Chardonnay
93 points, $20
It was a toss-up whether to choose the 1999 or 2000 vintage; both are prime examples of Andrew Hood’s deft touch. The fragrant stonefruit and citrus aromas, and the barest touch of oak are followed by a supremely elegant palate, with typical Tasmanian acidity leaving the mouth fresh.
Region: Tasmania
Best drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Salmon gravlax

2000 Rothbury Estate Brokenback Semillon
95 points, $20
It’s great to see Rothbury Semillon back in the winner’s circle; bottles from the early 1970s with reasonable corks are still superb. The very pure bouquet has an array of grass, herb and citrus aromas, matched by the clarity of the palate with its excellent mouthfeel, balance and length.
Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Best drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Grilled flathead

Whites over $20

2001 Petaluma Riesling
95 points, $21
Brian Croser has written of the climatic trials of the 2001 vintage in the Clare Valley, and rightly pointed to the unexpectedly excellent outcome. This is truly delicious, with fresh and crisp passionfruit and apple blossom aromas; the wine literally dances on the tongue with all the flavours promised by the bouquet.
Region: Clare Valley, SA
Best drinking: 2002-2011
Drink with: Blue swimmer crab

2001 Houghton Frankland River Riesling
94 points, $21.95
Stelvin. Another wine from the Great Southern area to emphasise the region’s ability to produce fine Riesling of the highest quality. Pale straw-green, a spotlessly clean, crisp, direct bouquet leads into a super-refined palate with apple, lime and a whisp of passionfruit; very long carry and finish.
Region: Great Southern, WA
Best drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Blue lipped mussels

1999 Capel Vale Chardonnay
93 points, $22
This wine came when it was least expected, its vitality belying its age. Light to medium yellow-green, the bouquet is still fresh and youthful, the oak subtle. The fruit-driven palate, with a flavoursome mix of melon, stonefruit and a touch of grapefruit/citrus, has particularly good length and persistence.
Region: Geographe, WA
Best drinking: Now-2006
Drink with: Marron

1999 De Bortoli Noble One (375 ml)
94 points, $22
The undisputed king of the world of ‘stickies’ since it was first made in 1982. Glowing yellow-gold, the near-searing intensity of the botrytis balances the sweetness producing a layered bouquet of lime marmalade and cumquat, the palate long and intense, with excellent lemony acidity on the finish.
Region: Griffith, NSW
Best drinking: 2002-2008
Drink with: Creme brulee

2001 Pierro LTC Semillon Sauvignon Blanc
94 points, $22.40
Les Trois Cuvees or a little touch of Chardonnay, take your choice. An outstanding success this vintage, the clean and concentrated bouquet of lemon/citrus and gooseberry flowing into a harmonious palate, with oak an impeccably-behaved observer.
Region: Margaret River, WA
Best drinking: Now-2005
Drink with: Turkey breast

2001 Crawford River Riesling
94 points, $27
John Thomson crafts flawless wines, the Riesling invariably cut like a diamond. Pristine, fragrant aromas of passionfruit, lime and fresh-cut apple are repeated on the fresh, lively palate with an additional hint of spice, and a tingle to the crisp finish. Guaranteed to age superbly.
Region: Henty, Vic
Best drinking: 2002-2012
Drink with: Antipasto

2000 Keith Tulloch Semillon
94 points, $28
Five different handling techniques, and thus five components, were used in making the 400 cases of this wine. Gentle citrus, lemon and grass aromas are woven through subtle, immaculately handled oak, the flavour focussed, linear and persistent, the oak all-but hidden, contributing to the texture more than the flavour.
Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Best drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Teppanyaki seafood

2000 Meadowbank Grace Elizabeth Chardonnay
95 points, $30
One of a series of lovely wines coming from Gerald Ellis’s now mature vineyard on the banks of the Upper Derwent River. Light but bright colour, it has fresh, fine nectarine/stonefruit aromas, the elegant palate modulated and rounded. Fruit-driven, but with real finesse and length.
Region: Southern Tasmania
Best drinking: 2002-2008
Drink with: Fresh Tasmanian salmon

2001 Grosset Watervale Riesling
94 points, $31
Stelvin. Who would have thought ten years ago that a current vintage Riesling would effortlessly command a 50 per cent price premium over Petaluma? Fresh cut apple/apple blossom aromas with hints of spice and lime meld into a lime-accented palate with great mouthfeel, its impact building progressively through to the finish.
Region: Clare Valley, SA
Best drinking: 2002-2012
Drink with: Grilled King George whiting

2000 Cape Mentelle Chardonnay
96 points, $32.30
Charges out of the blocks, instantly proclaiming another great Margaret River Chardonnay. It has a typically ultra-complex yet elegant bouquet, showing barrel-ferment and malolactic fermentation characters with a mix of fig, melon and creamy cashew. The palate is an instant replay, intense, complex and long.
Region: Margaret River, WA
Best drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Veal sweetbreads

2000 Shaw & Smith M3 Vineyard Chardonnay
94 points, $35
From the authors of Cerebral Chardonnay, Martin Shaw and Michael (and Matthew) Hill-Smith, hence M3. A fine, fresh and restrained bouquet with delicately aromatic melon and nectarine is logically followed by an elegant, long and restrained palate, with the barrel and malolactic inputs present but subjugated to the fruit.
Region: Adelaide Hills, SA
Best drinking: 2003-2008
Drink with: Lobster salad

1999 Metier Wines Viognier
94 points, $35
Martin Williams is the craftsman who took Viognier from the 290-metre high Kanumbra Vineyard to sculpt this remarkable wine. Glowing yellow-green, the bouquet oozes ripe, honeyed, fruit pastille/dried fruit aromas, as does the palate. It has that slightly oily viscosity and powerful finish, eerily similar to a top Condrieu.
Region: Central Victorian Mountain Country
Best drinking: Now-2003
Drink with: Chicken pasta

1999 Hardys Eileen Hardy Chardonnay
95 points, $35
Following in the footsteps of the 1998, has already accumulated a roomful of trophies. Light to medium yellow-green, it features very well balanced and integrated toasty oak in a web of melon, stonefruit and cashew on the bouquet, the palate flavour moving to melon and grapefruit; long finish.
Region: Yarra Valley, Vic and Adelaide Hills, SA
Best drinking: Now-2005
Drink with: Salmon pasta

1996 Brokenwood ILR Reserve Semillon
96 points, $35
This is not simply a re-release of Brokenwood Semillon, but a wine made from the ground up to be released when five years old. Complex, rich toasty overtones to lemony fruit on the bouquet, then a palate with lovely sweet lemony fruit allied with toast, the freshness sustained by the last vestiges of CO2.
Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Best drinking: Now-2006
Drink with: Veal saltimbocca

1998 Leo Buring Leonay Eden Valley Riesling
94 points, $35.50
In retrospect, I think the 94-point rating was churlish, and should have been higher. Great colour is an enticing start, the bouquet with a classic lime and mineral mix. The refreshing, almost light, palate has nigh-on perfect balance in a bone-dry style, then a lingering finish.
Region: Eden Valley, SA
Best drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Baked fish, Chinese style

1996 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon
96 points, $41.50
At last this great, single-vineyard wine, the vines more than 50 years old, is carrying a sensible price. Brilliant green-yellow; intense, fragrant lemon/lemon rind/toast aromas are followed by a delicate, daisy-fresh palate, like the ILR with a touch of CO2 yet to disappear.
Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Best drinking: 2003-2013
Drink with: Fine fish dishes

1996 Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon
96 points, $45
The last of a trio of magnificent Hunter Semillons from 1996, all having accumulated numerous gold medals and trophies. Glowing yellow-green, the still-tight bouquet has abundant ripe, tangy, citrus and honey aromas, the outstanding palate long and concentrated, citrussy, and sustained by minerally acidity on the finish.
Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Best drinking: 2002-2012
Drink with: Calamari

1999 Tyrrell’s Vat 47 Chardonnay
95 points, $45
The wine which launched a thousand ships with its inaugural release in 1971. Tasted on a number of occasions, this elegant yet complex wine has all the fig, melon, nectarine and underlying cashew one could wish for, the palate with that extra dimension and length which sets it apart from its peers.
Region: Hunter Valley, NSW
Best drinking: Now-2003
Drink with: Fresh, slow-cooked salmon

1998 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay
96 points, $75
Has been and remains the best Australian Chardonnay, always demanding time. This has improved dramatically this year, and is still accelerating upwards. Vividly coloured, fresh nectarine and grapefruit intermingle with quality oak on the bouquet, the palate immaculately balanced yet piercingly intense, adding cashew and oak spice.
Region: Margaret River, WA
Best drinking: Now-2010
Drink with: Tempura

Reds under $25

2000 Deakin Estate Shiraz
87 points, $9.99
A consistent performer in the fighting varietal sector of the market, especially with its Shiraz (in this instance with 10 per cent ruby cabernet added for colour). Clean, direct red fruit and restrained oak on the bouquet is followed by an attractive fruit-driven palate which has fleshed out very well since being bottled.
Region: Riverland, SA/Vic
Best drinking: Now-2003
Drink with: One size fits all

2000 Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet
89 points, $14.50
Like Old Man River, just keeps rolling along, as honest and dependable as the day is long. Medium red-purple, the bouquet has smooth, sweet dark berry fruit and subtle oak, the palate with good structure, richness and weight thanks to dark berry and chocolate flavours and balanced tannins.
Region: South East Australia
Best drinking: 2002-2007
Drink with: All red meat, cheese

2000 Moondah Brook Shiraz
89 points, $14.95
While Hardys continues to own the Moondah Brook vineyard, the name is now simply a brand, with the grapes sourced mainly from southern regions. Solid dark berry fruit aromas, with hints of earth and vanilla, lead into a full-flavoured, dense but not jammy palate with dark plum, prune and blackberry fruit.
Region: South Western Australia
Best drinking: 2003-2008
Drink with: Barbecued T-bone

1999 Moondah Brook Cabernet Sauvignon
90 points, $14.95
Obviously enough, a sister wine to the Moondah Brook Shiraz, with a similar regional pedigree. Medium to full red-purple, powerful blackberry/cassis backed by oak on the bouquet flows through to the robust, rich palate with blackberry fruit, touches of prune and chocolate, lingering tannins and good oak.
Region: South Western Australia
Best drinking: 2002-2010
Drink with: Braised lamb with cous cous

1999 Orlando Jacob’s Creek Reserve Shiraz
89 points, $15
A worthy follow-up to the outstanding 1998 vintage of this wine, although the upwards brand-extension remains a conundrum. Good colour and a bouquet flooded with ripe, dark plum and prune leads logically into a palate with luscious ripe fruit offset by appropriately persistent tannins and subtle oak.
Region: South Australia
Best drinking: 2003-2008
Drink with: Rare roast beef

2000 De Bortoli Gulf Station Shiraz
90 points, $15
All the Yarra Valley red wine styles from 2000 are outstanding, not just pinot noir, and De Bortoli has excelled at all levels. Rich, complex dark berry and earthy fruit aromas are followed by a concentrated and weighty palate of ripe blood plums, finishing with fine tannins. Subtle oak throughout.
Region: Yarra Valley, Vic
Best drinking: 2002-2008
Drink with: Osso bucco

1999 Ingoldby McLaren Vale Shiraz
90 points, $15
A famous McLaren Vale name, now a brand in the Beringer Blass artillery. Impressive, deep red-purple signals a complex berry bouquet with savoury touches of chocolate and earth, the palate with good depth and structure replete with blackberry/blood plum fruit and soft tannins. Excellent oak handling throughout.
Region: McLaren Vale, SA
Best drinking: 2002-2007
Drink with: Shepherd’s pie

2000 De Bortoli Gulf Station Pinot Noir
91 points, $15
Has developed excellently since first tasted eight months ago, and offers unbeatable value. The latent complexity has now bloomed, with a mix of plummy/savoury/spicy aromas flowing into a palate with impeccable texture, structure and flavour, anchored on the abundance of plummy fruit the wine showed in its infancy.
Region: Yarra Valley, Vic
Best drinking: Now-2005
Drink with: Roast pigeon

1999 Hardys Tintara Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon
90 points, $16
Open-fermented and basket-pressed wines are rare beasts indeed at this price point. Solid, dark berry fruit drives the bouquet with minimal interference from oak, the palate equally full-flavoured; here blackberry, plum and dark chocolate fruit flavours are supported by positive but soft tannins. Impressive value.
Region: McLaren Vale, Coonawarra and Adelaide Hills, SA
Best drinking: 2003-2008
Drink with: Beef bordelaise

2000 Yarra Ridge Mt Tanglefoot Pinot Noir
91 points, $16
A total surprise packet, doing battle with the De Bortoli Gulf Station Pinot for best value. The bouquet has remarkable varietal character and richness, the palate with its texture, structure and length. Spice, black plums and a hint of tobacco all add to the appeal and to the varietal character.
Region: Central Victorian Mountain Country, Vic
Best drinking: 2002-2006
Drink with: Braised rabbit

1999 Annie’s Lane Shiraz
91 points, $16
No surprise here with a wine which is a model of consistency year in, year out. Deeply coloured, the rich and concentrated bouquet has black fruit aromas and positive oak; then smooth, dark cherry/blackberry fruit at the core of a rich, weighty (but not the least extractive) palate.
Region: Clare Valley, SA
Best drinking: 2002-2013
Drink with: Grilled porterhouse

2001 Charles Melton Rose of Virginia
94 points, $16.90
I don’t know whether there is anyone out there listening, but do yourself a favour: at least try a bottle at lunch this summer and see whether you agree with my points. Vivid colour, vivid aroma and vivid flavour all achieved without sugary sweetness, just cherry/cherry blossom fruit.
Region: Barossa Valley, SA
Best drinking: Now
Drink with: Anything

1999 Rouge Homme Cabernet Sauvignon
92 points, $18
The pending sale of Rouge Homme marks the end of an era, with little certainty about the future. Ironical, then, that this wine should be so good, flooded with ripe blackcurrant/berry fruit aromas which flow through to the palate. Rich fruit, sweet oak nuances and ripe tannins all add to the appeal.
Region: Coonawarra, SA
Best drinking: 2002-2010
Drink with: Steak & kidney pie

2000 Hungerford Hill Tumbarumba Pinot Noir
94 points, $19
Frost is a constant threat at Tumbarumba, and Pinot Noir table wines are few and far between. This is a ripper, with fragrant, lifted spicy aromas of violets, forest floor and plum, then a lively, spicy/savoury palate with great intensity and length. The absurd price hooked me for a case without thinking twice.
Region: Tumbarumba, NSW
Best drinking: 2002-2007
Drink with: Smoked quail salad

1999 Tollana TR222 Cabernet Sauvignon
93 points, $20
A wine which reflects the synergies to be gained from regional blending, especially with aristocratic regions. Strong red-purple, the sweet, dark berry cabernet varietal character of the bouquet continues to run through the medium-bodied palate with a skein of sweet fruit wound through fine tannins and nice oak.
Region: Eden Valley and Coonawarra, SA
Best drinking: 2002-2007
Drink with: Roast veal

2000 Seville Estate Pinot Noir
94 points, $23.50
One of the pioneers of the cool, red soil side of the Yarra Valley now owned by Brokenwood. Good colour, clean cherry and plum fruit, and sympathetic oak handling lead into a palate with harmonious mouthfeel and balance, sustained by sweet plum and spice fruit. Oozes development potential.
Region: Yarra Valley, Vic
Best drinking: 2003-2009
Drink with: Rare breast of squab

1998 Mount Helen Cabernet Merlot
93 points, $24
A curious remnant of a once-proud brand, nearly orphaned, but of real quality and style. Medium to full red-purple, it has attractive, gently cedary/spicy fruit and oak aromas flowing into an elegant, medium-bodied palate with ripe berry/cassis fruit, fine tannins and good length.
Region: Central Victorian Mountain Country
Best drinking: 2003-2008
Drink with: Lamb shoulder

2000 Diamond Valley Yarra Valley Pinot Noir
93 points, $24.50
David Lance has been making great Pinot Noir for over 15 years, and didn’t miss out on this vintage. The bouquet has intriguing savoury bacony oak aromas alongside plummy fruit. The palate follows suit with complex flavour and texture, providing a mix of savoury/foresty/dark plum flavours and silky tannins.
Region: Yarra Valley, Vic
Best drinking: 2002-2007
Drink with: Game pie

Reds over $25

1999 Coriole Shiraz
94 points, $26.99
Year in, year out, Coriole produces stylish yet unembellished Shiraz. Vivid purple-red, the bouquet emanates black cherry fruit with oak in the background. The palate is a replay, with an exceptional concentration of black cherry fruit, particularly given the somewhat indifferent vintage, and avoids the high alcohol trap.
Region: McLaren Vale, SA
Best drinking: 2003-2009
Drink with: Daube of lamb

1999 Houghton Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon
95 points, $27.95
A multi-trophy, gold medal-winning testimony to the quality of the 1999 vintage. A massive dark berry/blackcurrant/chocolate charged bouquet foretells a similarly awesome but luscious palate, with loads of sweet dark berry fruit. Amazingly, the tannins are soft, the oak submerged in the fruit.
Region: Margaret River, WA
Best drinking: 2004-2014
Drink with: Braised ox tail

2000 Wedgetail Estate Pinot Noir
94 points, $28
A high-flying newcomer with his third vintage, Guy Lamothe has a rare touch. A fragrant/savoury/sappy lift to the core of sweet plum on the bouquet and palate is the key to a wine with delicious freshness, fragrance, length and persistence. Drink while the 2000 Reserve (95 points, $55) matures.
Region: Yarra Valley, Vic
Best drinking: Now-2004
Drink with: Roast quail

2000 Kings Creek Reserve Pinot Noir
95 points, $30
A bargain in the rarefied atmosphere of top reds, reaffirming to the quality of the vintage. Bright purple-red; a complex, fragrant bouquet of dark plum and spice then a palate with excellent fruit-weight and varietal character showing ripe (but not jammy) plum, fine tannins and subtle spicy oak.
Region: Mornington Peninsula, Vic
Best drinking: 2002-2006
Drink with: Roast pigeon

1998 Metala Original Plantings Shiraz
95 points, $30
The black label signifies the special nature of this wine made from vines planted in the 1890s. Like the Turkey Flat, a wine of true finesse though abundant flavour, with a fragrant and enticing mix of red berry, chocolate, spice and particularly well-handled American oak. Great value.
Region: Langhorne Creek, SA
Best drinking: 2002-2010
Drink with: Eye fillet of beef

1999 Turkey Flat Shiraz
94 points, $32
From a vineyard first planted in 1847; the spotlessly clean, scented bouquet offers an array of cherry, spice, earth and vanilla; the particularly harmonious balance and extract of the palate is constructed around the red berry fruit at its core, amplified by spice, chocolate and soft tannins. A bargain.
Region: Barossa Valley, SA
Best drinking: 2004-2020
Drink with: Braised beef

1998 Orlando St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon
95 points, $32
Amongst many other awards, winner of the coveted Montgomery Trophy at the Royal Adelaide Wine Show 2000. Most appealing ultra-clean, supple, perfectly ripened blackcurrant/cassis varietal fruit on the bouquet followed by a quite delicious palate, with excellent structure aided by cedar/vanilla oak and soft, ripe tannins.
Region: Coonawarra, SA
Best drinking: 2002-2012
Drink with: Rack of lamb

1998 McWilliams Mount Pleasant O’Shea Shiraz
96 points, $35
Sourced from the Old Hill Vineyard planted in 1880,