Auto Body and Paint

How To Polish Car Paint on Sailboat – Buffing Car Paint Methods

2013-03-20T07:53:00.000-07:00

In this post I’ll show you how to polish car paint that looks really dull and oxidized. Buffing car paint tactics revealed!

When ignoring paint on a car, boat, truck or anything really …you start to get some problems. Problems like peeling clear-coat, fading, and watersports are a big one too. The paint on your project starts to look like crap.

You think to yourself…

What do I need to do to make this paint look nice again? Do I need to repaint it? Can I just put some clear coat on it?

Well, it all depends. If the clear is peeling, NO you can’t just put clear on it. The amount of time you need to put into it to get ready for painting clear on it is the same as putting a new coat of paint on it.

So the best bet would be to paint a new coat of base coat on it and to lay your fresh coat of clear on it too.

DON’T WORRY! We Cover All of These Methods on Video in the VIP Members Area!

If you have a fading problem or waterspots on your paint and just really bad oxidation most times a good buffing job will do the trick. But it can be VERY tricky if you don’t know the EXACT process on how to get this done.

Have you ever seen those cheap orbital buffers that just vibrate? well, that won’t do anything for you if you’re stuck in this situation. That is only good for waxing your already nice paint. That machine will not, I repeat WILL NOT buff out waterspots and shine up bad paint oxidation.

For doing just that I have made a simple video below showing you the basics on how this is done on my personal Yamaha sailboat.

This thing had really bad paint oxidation on it’s enamel paint job.

When buffing you always need a 3 step process. Compound with a wool pad, glaze with a foam pad and wax. Yeah, it sounds simple but the way you hold and use your buffer will determine the outcome of your job.

Example, you must buff small sections at a time, you need to use certain speeds and stay in sections for so long.

The Basics Of Painting A Car From Home

2013-03-18T07:50:00.002-07:00

A car cannot be painted well just anywhere. There are exceptions, but it also depends on what kind of finish you are looking for. Do you want El Cheapo job? Or maybe you just want a super sick paint job.

You have to find a place out of the weather, with good ventilation, plenty of room for you to maneuver, proper lighting and electricity. Your garage is probably a great place to start but be careful for safety issues (water heaters or furnaces that could cause a fire hazard because of paint fumes). Assemble everything you will need for the job and organize it so everything is easy to reach and not in harm’s way.

The Basic Equipment and Materials You Will Need
for painting a car from home is a Paint sprayer
Paint
Sand paper, sanding blocks
Safety goggles and gloves
Masking tape
Hand tools to remove trim etc. before painting

Before You Begin Repair all body dents or blemishes so they won’t be visible after you paint and remove all rust from the car.

Take off the chrome or plastic trim on the car.

This is fairly easy. Today nearly all body panel moldings found on cars can be ”popped” off and back on easily. But do not force them off if they are resistant. Go to an auto supply store and pick up the special tools they sell to remove them more easily. You don’t want to damage the melding or chrome.

Next, sand the paint.
You have to sand it down either to the bare metal or the original primer, and at least enough to create a surface that your new paint will adhere to. For the very best results, sand the paint down to the bare metal, which will mean you’ll have to reprime the surface before you can apply paint.

Then meticulously clean all of the car’s surfaces.

Use denatured alcohol or mineral spirits because you don’t want any oil whatsoever on the surface when you paint.

Cover all surfaces that you want to remain paint-free with masking tape and paper.
This usually means windows, glass, trim, handles, grills and mirrors. Take care to make sure there are no pin pricks or perforations in the paper and that the masking tape is smooth and adheres well. Otherwise overspray from the paint gun will get through them and ruin the job.

Applying the Paint Prime the surface with a good primer.
If you have removed all of the car’s paint down to bare metal, you should use a corrosion resistant, etching primer. Also be certain to prime well all surfaces you used body filler on or surfaces that you removed rust from. Take the time to do a smooth transition on these areas. Make sure to apply plenty of paint to fill all scratches or pits that might remain on the body from sanding, etc.

Check the directions on the primer and allow enough time for the primer to dry thoroughly.

Now sand all of the primed surfaces until they are completely smooth. Watch out that you don’t sand too much and expose the bare metal again. With a wax/grease remover or acetone, thoroughly clean all surfaces that you primed to remove any dust or oil that has settled on it during priming and sanding.

Now you are ready to apply the finish paint to the car. Follow the paint manufacturer’s directions. See if a hardener or catalyst is recommended to be used with the paint. Thin the paint properly for the particular equipment you are using.

Allow the paint to fully dry. Next apply Clear-Coat for a deeper, glossier look.
There are other finishing touches and techniques you can use once you’ve reached this point, but these are the fundamental steps you need to follow to get a good paint job on your car and in the process save hundreds of dollars by doing it yourself!

For more help and step-by-step videos to customize and know Exactly what to do on your special project make sure to check out the famous VIP Membership Course Here, where hundred of VIP members from across the world learn how to fix, customize and paint cars, trucks or bikes themselves while saving THOUSANDS of dollars! Not to mention the self-satisfaction you feel when you take a step back and say….

WOW, I did That!

To learn more about basics of car painting visit

http://learnautobodyandpaint.com/blog/2010/12/08/the-basics-of-painting-a-car-from-home/

How To Paint Using (HVLP) High Volume Low Pressure Guns!

2013-03-02T05:48:00.000-08:00

In this article let’s talk about High Volume Low Pressure Spray Guns, features and how they work for you and your automotive projects.

Traditional spray guns feature a paint cup that is mounted beneath the gun, and which uses air pressure to blow paint out of the cup and into the main air stream. This, in turn, blasts the paint onto the car’s surface at tremendous air pressure. Very high pressure is needed to suck enough paint out of the cup to produce a stroke with good coverage. Unfortunately, this leads to as much as 70% of the paint ricocheting off the surface and into the air.

This represents a tremendous amount of wastage – to put it in perspective, this means that out of every 10 gallons of auto paint shot in this manner, 7 entire gallons end up being dispersed into the air as an aerosol mist. This wastes car paint, which is very expensive (especially the specialty colors such as those used in candy paint schemes); puts a large amount of dangerous paint fumes into the air, making the workspace hazardous for the painter; and damages the environment, especially when solvent-based paints are being shot.

High Volume Low Pressure spray guns

The new High Volume Low Pressure (HVLP) guns, by contrast, use a lower air pressure at the gun’s tip to prevent as much ricocheting of paint from the car’s surface during painting. Pressure remains high at the inlet – up to 60 psi for typical painting jobs – but is only around 10 psi (pounds per square inch) at the nozzle. The HVLP spray gun shoots a huge amount of paint at low pressure, creating good, smooth coverage with far less paint rebounding from the sheet metal.

With HVLP, the amount of ricochet is halved to between 30% and 40%. In effect, HVLP reverses the old proportion. Seven out of ten gallons shot now end up on the car’s surface, rather than seven out of ten gallons blowing away on the breeze. This is a boon to nearly everyone except perhaps the car paint manufacturers. You are well advised to obtain an HVLP spray gun with a gravity feed paint cup.

One possible fringe benefit to using an HVLP spray gun is that you will raise less of a stink while painting as well. If you are a home painter, rather than the owner or employee of a commercial auto painting concern where fumes are handled by a sophisticated ventilation system, then offending your neighbors with a reek of wet paint is always a risk. HVLP makes less of a stench and thus is less likely to bring the wrath of the local populace down upon your head.

Gravity feed paint cups

The gravity feed paint cup is another innovation which usually accompanies the HVLP spray gun – a paint cup mounted above the nozzle, rather than below it, so that gravity as well as air movement can suck paint down into the spray gun’s air stream. A special stand is needed to hold the spray gun while the paint cup is being filled.

To learn more and to get a Free auto body and paint manual click here: http://learnautobodyandpaint.com/blog/2011/02/01/how-to-paint-using-hvlp-high-volume-low-pressure-guns/

If you want to learn about our VIP course and community click here to check it out! We currently have thousands of VIP members taking advantage of our library of step-by-step videos, private member only forums, and access to instant support from our team of VIP members and experts that can help you with your current or next auto body and paint project.

How To Fix Scratches in Car Paint at Home

2013-02-28T05:45:00.000-08:00

Few people realize it, but minor paint scratches and imperfections can be fairly quickly repaired by car owners who are willing to take the time to learn how to do the job right using the standard steps for professional car paint repair.

If your car has scratches in the paint or paint flaws that you’d like to remove without going through the expense and hassle of dealing with a body paint shop, listen up!

No doubt the scratches became more and more annoying to you ever since you first noticed them. Yet repairing the imperfections in car paint is not rocket science nor is it time consuming once you get ahold of the right information and become determined to follow a few easy-to- understand directions.

You have a few options…

1: You can repaint. We show you the steps to fill scratches and or rock chips in the video above.
2: You can buff out scratches which is what we show you in the video and article here.

Car owners everywhere have stumbled on this huge money-saving truth. No, today savvy people all over have produced professional looking paint jobs they’ve completed with great results all by themselves.
This may come as a surprise to many car owners, but the touch up paint available at car dealerships is perhaps the single worst solution to getting rid of the problem, and particularly if the scratch you are trying to repair is noticeable from any distance.

The minute you step into to any dealership lot moaning about the scratches and dings that have appeared on your car that you can see at a distance of six feet or more away, they instantly will try to sell you touch up paint, claiming it’s all anyone needs to get rid of the scratch.

Warning! Touch up paint never blends well with any car’s paint and using it will only make matters worse! Swallow their sales pitch and you will simply replace a scratch with an unsightly even gob of paint that will be even more unsightly than the original scratch.

Good Rule of Thumb: Only use touch up paint for tiny nicks and scratches– nothing more.

To Effectively Get Rid of Those Annoying Scratches, Follow These Simple Steps:

First, carefully sand the scratch down, using 400-600 grit sandpaper, initially, then working your way up to 800-1000 grit sandpaper, taking care to assure that you are getting a very even smooth feathered surface. Really deep scratches have to be sanded with 400-grit wet and dry sandpaper.

Once the surface is nicely flattened and smoothed, clean the area you want to be paint carefully, making certain to remove all dust, debris, sand, etc. Then evenly apply the primer.

Lastly, apply three coats of color over the primed area. After the color is dry, wind up the project by adding a good two coast of clear coat.

Tips:

Allow enough time for each coat to dry thoroughly, fifteen minutes or so, before applying the next coat.
Don’t attempt your car paint repair project if the temperature is below 55 degrees, or you will get inferior results.

Really deep scratches need a total re-painting of the car or panel if you want truly professional looking results. Blending will be another option.

To learn more and to get a Free auto body and paint manual click here:
http://learnautobodyandpaint.com/blog/2010/11/19/how-to-fix-scratches-in-car-paint/

Discover Auto Body Preparation Tactics

2013-01-23T21:00:00.001-08:00

Auto body surface preparation really is your first vital step.
The bottom line, the foundation, for everything else that follows in your car painting project.

If you don’t get this first step completed correctly, everything you do thereafter is a waste of time. No amount of paint or clear coat will cover up the errors and remaining imperfections on the surface that you have provided as the basis of the re-painting process.

So the first thing you must do is prepare yourself to be patient and thorough in preparing a perfect foundation for your do-it-yourself paint job.

Professional painters spend 95% of their efforts and time in a car-painting job on surface preparation. That alone ought to tell you, clearly and simply, where you must really focus your best efforts and put in the hours. Applying coats of paint and clear coats are simple and fast. But preparing the surface of your car for these paint applications is the single most important aspect of painting your own car.

Auto painting consists of a series of tasks, which must be carefully and thoroughly completed or all your efforts will fail. If you perform these tasks carefully and completely, these stages will all add up to a super paint job on your vehicle, a paint job that has a professional quality to it and defies amateurs to tell the difference. The paint will adhere to the surface tightly and the paint job will last for years to come.

So it is critical to remember that sub-standard workmanship in any phase will spell ruin for the overall paint job. You must be certain you finish to perfection every phase of the painting process as well as you possibly can. If you do in fact mess up on a stage, and most people do, just go back and do it again until you get it right.

Sanding, the key task for auto body preparation for repainting, requires you begin with a fairly rough grit (320) and proceed to the finest grit necessary to create a perfectly smooth and flawless surface. Be sure to thoroughly dust and clean the surface as you graduate from one grit to the next. You will then ensure that you are not creating additional problems for yourself by making new scratches as you use ever-finer sandpaper grit.

Once the sanding is complete, clean the entire surface very carefully, making sure all dust, stray sand and debris have been completely removed. You are then ready to get going with the faster-moving stages of painting your car or bike: paint and clear coat applications.

Don’t be tempted to hurry through any of the phases involved, but bear in mind that you’re aiming for a great looking, professional paint job, one you will be happy with and that will last for many, many years!

To learn more and to get a Free auto body and paint manual click here:http://learnautobodyandpaint.com/blog/2010/08/16/discover-auto-body-preperation-tactics/

Car Paint Stripping Tips

2013-01-23T20:58:00.002-08:00

Car paint stripping can be a time consuming process.

This will take a full 2-3 days or more if you’re planning on stripping a complete car. Like all stripping jobs, you should focus on one panel at a time. I usually like to set a few hours a day for a few parts because of the many other things on my working schedule.
Day 1. I’d do the hood and fenders. Day 2. maybe the doors and roof and on day 3 the rest of the car. You can spread auto paint stripping process over a week or two if you only have a few hours a week to worn on your car.

REMEMBER: you’ll have large areas of bare metal being exposed to the weather during the stripping process.

And bare metal is a “breeding ground” for rust, especially if you live in locations with plenty of moisture in the air.

The sooner the car is primed after the paint stripping is completed, the better. If left unpainted for more than a few days, the vehicle’s exterior should be sanded down again several times to ensure that all the rust that has developed is on the surface is removed.
Like I say after paint stripping your car sand it down with about a 280-320 grit sand paper then prime those parts that day is possible no longer than 24 hours later or else you should sand it lightly again before you prime the car.

Do not expect to remove all paint from a car with nothing but stripper and a putty knife. The first stage of the process is only intended to get the big stuff. Then the sanding will take care of the rest.

A 3” – 5″ brush is best for application of stripping chemicals, which are at their most effective in warm conditions. However, direct sunlight should not be allowed to strike the chemicals, as this will dry them and cause more problems. The stripper should remain wet from the moment you apply it to the moment it is removed. If stripper is drying too fast on areas you have not reached yet narrow your working area.

Apply the stripper and then wait for it to do its work. You will start to see strong wrinkling, bubbling, and peeling of the paint. Scrape off the wrinkled, softened paint with your putty knife, it can be plastic, and dispose of it properly in a container that will not leak onto the ground.

Only keep scraping for as long as the paint continues to come off easily – once any resistance is encountered, stop scraping, then apply more stripper, and wait for wrinkling once again.

You may want to use a MASK because of the fumes that car paint strippers have.

After the main stripping has been accomplished, some paint will still remain. The next stage is to apply more stripper, then use a steel wire brush, preferably one with short bristles, to scrub the paint off as it softens up. Finally, when it becomes difficult to remove then wipe dry and take out your orbital sander with 150 grit then move down to a 280-320 before priming with your 2k or epoxy primer.

The car is now ready for body work, body filler if you have minor dents and applying the right primers and sanding for the ultimate car paint job completion.

To learn more and to get a Free auto body and paint manual click here: http://learnautobodyandpaint.com/blog/2010/09/13/car-paint-stripping-tips-that-you-need-to-know/

For more information check out the VIP section of the http://www.learnautobodyandpaint.com site.

Automotive Spraying With The Proper 50% Overlay – Spray Painting Overlay Techniques

2013-01-17T07:54:00.000-08:00

When painting your vehicle, bike or most of your automotive paint project, the majority of your spray pattern will be the 50% overlap spray pattern on your strokes.

This will ensure smooth blending between each stroke and those lying above and below it on the car’s surface. This will also make sure that the thickness of the paint will be sufficient, since the paint deposited at the top and bottom of a single stroke is inevitably thinner than that at the middle.

If you are painting on candy colors – using highly transparent paints over a metallic base to gain a deep, lustrous, glossy sheen that seems to hold infinite depths of color beneath the surface – then an even greater overlap is needed. Experts in the field recommend a 75% overlap in place of the standard 50% — since candy colors are clear, and need to be very precise, this wider overlap will ensure that there is no streaking at the edges where the strokes meet.

To find the ¾ mark, you need to aim not at the lower edge of the stroke, but at a line halfway between the stroke’s center and lower edge. Point your spray gun nozzle at that imaginary line, and follow it down the whole length of each stroke.

The Proper Spray Gun Positions

“Four-square” is a good term to describe the way you must hold your spray gun for optimal performance when painting a car. The spray gun should be held about one hand-span from the surface of the car for regular guns or about 6-8″ inches away from your panel, and half that distance or slightly more for HVLP (high volume low pressure) systems.

Any further and too much of the paint will dry in midair before it reaches the surface and will cause a rough dry finish that will need to be sanded and re painted. Any closer and the paint will either pool on the surface and then produce long runs down the side of the vehicle, or else so much will ricochet off the hard substrate that paint coverage will end up inadequate.

This distance must be maintained constantly – you cannot expect to produce a good paint job if the gun is too close at the start of the stroke, just right at the middle, and too far at the other end.

You need proper fluid settings, combined with smooth hand and gun flow to achieve the perfect run free finish.

The gun needs to be held straight on to the car’s surface at all times. Slanting the gun to one side or the other will cause a distorted spray pattern, with excessively heavy spray at one edge of the spray pattern and far too diffuse paint at the other margin.

If anything, tilting the gun at an angle up or down is even worse, resulting in a stroke that is thin and dry at either the top or bottom, and saturated to the point of running at the opposite edge.

All of your movement and positioning of your arms and body must be focused on keeping the spray gun at this optimal distance and angle. All successful car painters must learn to keep their spray gun correctly aimed while walking the length of the car.

Again, if you want to see all of this plus more in step-by-step training videos be sure to check out our P rivate VIP Members Club and worldwide forum. You get access to over 50 organized hours of training, support, manuals, videos, private forum and more.

To learn more and to get a Free auto body and paint manual click here:

http://learnautobodyandpaint.com/blog/2011/02/05/automotive-spraying-with-the-proper-50-overlay-spray-painting-overlay-techniques/

Auto Paint Spray Booths, How To Rent A Paint Booth!

2013-01-16T07:51:00.001-08:00

If you’re a do-it-yourself (DIY) junkie and you’re working on your project from home but really don’t have the space to spray paint your project in a homemade spray booth, why don’t you rent a paint booth from a body shop?

Yes, they are easily available and you can rent one for about $50.00 – $100.00 on average.

Although you can get VERY NICE finishes from your home garage or by using a simple TENT that you can set-up on the side of your house, some guys just don’t have room to paint a car… and this is what YOU could do!

Here is an image below of a homemade spray painting booth.

As you see, all you really need is a box fan or two. A clean and washed down floor, good ventilation and plastic covering your walls for dust prevention and for eliminating overspray to your garage walls. It’s really pretty simple.

I will make a separate article and post on what you need to build your own spray painting booth from home, a quick rundown on steps, material etc…

The funny thing is, back in the old days there were books teaching auto body and paint and showing you how to actually paint outside on a sunny day! haha, pretty funny because all you really need to successfully paint outside is good weather, an air compressor and your paint material along with a properly masked off project cleaned and ready for paint.

So we took this a little further and actually made FULL-LENGTH videos that are available within the VIP Members Area of the learnautobodyandpaint Members Course that shows you EXACTLY how you can paint a car from home and get great finishes!

Discover Auto Body Preparation Tactics

2012-12-21T21:25:00.002-08:00

Auto body surface preparation really is your first vital step.

The bottom line, the foundation, for everything else that follows in your car painting project.

If you don’t get this first step completed correctly, everything you do thereafter is a waste of time. No amount of paint or clear coat will cover up the errors and remaining imperfections on the surface that you have provided as the basis of the re-painting process.

So the first thing you must do is prepare yourself to be patient and thorough in preparing a perfect foundation for your do-it-yourself paint job.

Professional painters spend 95% of their efforts and time in a car-painting job on surface preparation. That alone ought to tell you, clearly and simply, where you must really focus your best efforts and put in the hours. Applying coats of paint and clear coats are simple and fast. But preparing the surface of your car for these paint applications is the single most important aspect of painting your own car.

Auto painting consists of a series of tasks, which must be carefully and thoroughly completed or all your efforts will fail. If you perform these tasks carefully and completely, these stages will all add up to a super paint job on your vehicle, a paint job that has a professional quality to it and defies amateurs to tell the difference. The paint will adhere to the surface tightly and the paint job will last for years to come.

So it is critical to remember that sub-standard workmanship in any phase will spell ruin for the overall paint job. You must be certain you finish to perfection every phase of the painting process as well as you possibly can. If you do in fact mess up on a stage, and most people do, just go back and do it again until you get it right.

Sanding, the key task for auto body preparation for repainting, requires you begin with a fairly rough grit (320) and proceed to the finest grit necessary to create a perfectly smooth and flawless surface. Be sure to thoroughly dust and clean the surface as you graduate from one grit to the next. You will then ensure that you are not creating additional problems for yourself by making new scratches as you use ever-finer sandpaper grit.

Once the sanding is complete, clean the entire surface very carefully, making sure all dust, stray sand and debris have been completely removed. You are then ready to get going with the faster-moving stages of painting your car or bike: paint and clear coat applications.

Don’t be tempted to hurry through any of the phases involved, but bear in mind that you’re aiming for a great looking, professional paint job, one you will be happy with and that will last for many, many years!

To learn more and to get a Free auto body and paint manual click here: http://learnautobodyandpaint.com/blog/2010/08/16/discover-auto-body-preperation-tactics/

If you want to learn about our VIP course and community click here to check it out! We currently have thousands of VIP members taking advantage of our library of step-by-step videos, private member only forums, and access to instant support from our team of VIP members and experts that can help you with your current or next auto body and paint project.

Car Paint Stripping Tips That You Need To Know

2012-12-21T21:23:00.000-08:00

Car paint stripping can be a time consuming process.

This will take a full 2-3 days or more if you’re planing on stripping a complete car. Like all stripping jobs, you should focus on one panel at a time. I usually like to set a few hours a day for a few parts because of the many other things on my working schedule.

Day 1. I’d do the hood and fenders. Day 2. maybe the doors and roof and on day 3 the rest of the car. You can spread auto paint stripping process over a week or two if you only have a few hours a week to worn on your car.

REMEMBER: you’ll have large areas of bare metal being exposed to the weather during the stripping process.
And bare metal is a “breeding ground” for rust, especially if you live in locations with plenty of moisture in the air.

The sooner the car is primed after the paint stripping is completed, the better. If left unpainted for more than a few days, the vehicle’s exterior should be sanded down again several times to ensure that all the rust that has developed is on the surface is removed.

Like I say after paint stripping your car sand it down with about a 280-320 grit sand paper then prime those parts that day is possible no longer than 24 hours later or else you should sand it lightly again before you prime the car.

Do not expect to remove all paint from a car with nothing but stripper and a putty knife. The first stage of the process is only intended to get the big stuff. Then the sanding will take care of the rest.

A 3” – 5″ brush is best for application of stripping chemicals, which are at their most effective in warm conditions. However, direct sunlight should not be allowed to strike the chemicals, as this will dry them and cause more problems. The stripper should remain wet from the moment you apply it to the moment it is removed. If stripper is drying too fast on areas you have not reached yet narrow your working area.

Apply the stripper and then wait for it to do its work. You will start to see strong wrinkling, bubbling, and peeling of the paint. Scrape off the wrinkled, softened paint with your putty knife, it can be plastic, and dispose of it properly in a container that will not leak onto the ground.

Only keep scraping for as long as the paint continues to come off easily – once any resistance is encountered, stop scraping, then apply more stripper, and wait for wrinkling once again.

You may want to use a MASK because of the fumes that car paint strippers have.

After the main stripping has been accomplished, some paint will still remain. The next stage is to apply more stripper, then use a steel wire brush, preferably one with short bristles, to scrub the paint off as it softens up. Finally, when it becomes difficult to remove then wipe dry and take out your orbital sander with 150 grit then move down to a 280-320 before priming with your 2k or epoxy primer.

The car is now ready for body work, body filler if you have minor dents and applying the right primers and sanding for the ultimate car paint job completion.

To learn more and to get a Free auto body and paint manual click here:

http://learnautobodyandpaint.com/blog/2010/09/13/car-paint-stripping-tips-that-you-need-to-know/

A Few Great Auto Body & Paining Tips!

2012-12-10T15:47:00.001-08:00

Great auto painting involves a series of several deliberate, detail-oriented tasks.

If executed carefully and correctly, the result is an A+ paint job that looks professional and appealing. After a well-executed paint job, the paint will feel perfectly smooth and flawless to the touch, it will appear lustrous and shiny to the eye, and will last for many years thereafter.

It is important to understand at the outset, before beginning any automotive-painting project that the ultimate result is determined by how well and thoroughly each stage is completed. One stage builds upon the other, and hasty mistakes and errors cannot be concealed, no matter how many coats of paint and clear coat you apply.

There is no point in rushing through stages, because of shoddy workmanship, however minor at any stage, will doom all further efforts, and make it pointless to continue.

Most unsatisfactory do-it-yourself paint jobs can be traced to rushing through steps and not finishing each step thoroughly and completely.

So first rule of thumb:

Take your time to do it right, and if you make a mistake, stop and correct it. It’s self-defeating to push forward without meticulous care given to each step. After all, the fundamental reason you undertook the project in the first place is because you wanted a terrific paint job you can be proud of and a car that doesn’t embarrass you.

Painting a car requires slow, fastidious execution of the following general steps:

- Sanding and repairing surface imperfections, like scratches

- Applying body filler as needed

- Sanding and more sanding, using progressively finer grades of sandpaper

- Thoroughly cleaning the entire surface to be painted

- Masking carefully all areas of the car you want to protect from paint

- Applying primer

- Applying the paint color (usually three coats)

- Applying the clear coat (usually three coats)

To accomplish the project successfully, you will need a good paint gun, a compressor, sandpaper in a variety of grades, good auto paint and clear coat, a few hand tools, clear plastic and masking tape, and some patience.

Some people get hung up on which paint gun to choose to paint their car, and waste an enormous amount of time worrying over the features and benefits of the many models of paint guns available on the market. This is a useless exercise. Any reputable brand will do and many can be purchased for around a hundred dollars. The most important consideration is to choose a paint gun that feels “right” to you, one that is comfortable in your hand.

A word of warning on paints and solvents is in order: Make certain all of these products are compatible or the results could be ugly, if not disastrous. Also, be sure the compressor is suitable for the paint gun and delivers the paint to the car’s surface correctly.

Learning how to paint cars is easy, and a way to save massive amounts of money visit http://learnautobodyandpaint.com/blog/2010/08/16/a-few-great-auto-body-paint-tips/

If you want to learn about our VIP course and community click here to check it out!

9 Easy Steps To Blend Paint Jobs From Home!

2012-12-10T15:45:00.000-08:00

9 Steps to a successfully blending a paint job on your project.

1. First you want to pinpoint your body work area and apply the proper body work strategies. You know, …the panel beating, the banging, the hammering pounding and all that noise.

2. Fill the area with your body filler. The “Bondo” as most us us call it. Bondo is only a body filler brand. Some people think that “bondo” is the body filler of body fillers. You have Rage Gold, Evercoat and a bunch of other body filler brands and they all work well, even the Wal Mart ones work!

3. Sand your body filler flat, use a guide coat if you are having a hard time getting it flat. Then you want to use your proper 2k primer with your hardener. After you prime, check for imperfections. Do your glaze …if you need to. Wetsand and walla you’re ready for masking.

4. Masking… Masking is a very important step especially when blending because you need to blend into areas that will not be totally masked. If you watch the video you’ll see certain areas of the car that are not masked.

5. 2000 grit the blending areas so you can have a section to melt your clearcoat to. You can use a paint blender that you mix with your clear on the last coat OR my way… so you can save on the blender is to (use reducer) to blend. I’ll show you how to easily use the plain old reducer that you use for base and clear to blend your paint PRO style!

6. Apply your base color in a feather spray pattern only covering the primed areas first. Gradually widen your coverage on the 2-3 coats until your base coat starts to blend with the original base color on your panels.

7. Clearcoat time. Clear all of your panels except the blending areas twice until you get that high gloss look all over except where you want to blend. On the last coat is where you will mix your reducer with your clear. Mix the proper amount and blend only over the section where the clear is dry looking. Carefully blend the clearcoat, more like melting the clear with the reducer to the panel.

8. Buffing. wetsand the entire paint blending area with 1500 – 2000 grit paper and buff with the recommended buffing pads and compound which we cover step-by-step in the VIP Training Course.

9. Enjoy your completed project! This may seem a little confusing if you are new to painting but when actually seen in step-by-step detail and watching me as I show you exactly how to do this and also showing you the best compounds you want to use makes it MUCH easier.

You’ll also save thousands of dollars by doing it yourself. Not to mention the money you can make by fixing friends, family’s cars on your spare time.

To learn more and to get a Free auto body and paint manual click here: http://learnautobodyandpaint.com/blog/2010/10/17/how-to-blend-paint-jobs-from-home/

If you want more information on the proper tricks tips and methods so you can completely dominate auto body and paint from home. You must check out the VIPMembership Club, it’s filled with over 50 HOURS of video tutorials as I show you exactly how to fix and repair anything from home.

How To Repair Plastic Bumpers – 4 Plastic Bumper Repair Tips

2012-10-20T07:18:00.000-07:00

How To Repair Plastic Bumpers From Home.

Let’s quickly talk about plastic bumper repair. In the video above we show you the basics of how to properly heat up and push out a large dent that was caused by backing into a fire hydrant. Their are 4 main types of automotive plastic that you’ll most likely be woking with when repairing bumpers and trim.

TPO – Sands chunky, melts like butter with high speed grinders and gets stringy when hot. When you see me cut up OEM covers you’ll see how it melts. I have this on my body kit modification series.
Thermo-Set – Flexible or Rigid style, sands powdery, does not melt and easy to repair.
Poly propylene – RV Water Tanks, Dirt Bike Fenders – Very flexible in some cases.
SMC- Sheet molded Compound – New Corvettes have it and looks like fiberglass with white powder. We will cover SMC in another article.

IMPORTANT: this is only if you want to paint your bumper cover.
Lets talk about TPO Plastics. This is one of the difficult plastics to repair. It contains 3% to 5% wax based mold release within the material.
That’s the problem, how do we get adhesive or paint to stick to mold release? Many shop owners and technicians today will just rather not touch it and throw the bumper away. TPO is repairable, but you have to take a few precautions.You need to clean your plastics well before doing any kind of sanding. Lacquer thinner works best. You may need to clean it two or three times but it’s better safe than sorry.How do you know the plastic is bumper is clean enough? Use the water test. If the water beads up like a waxed car or a water beading off a ducks back, clean it again. Try the process again until the water stays wet looking on the bumper for a while.In the video above you’ll learn the basics of how to push out dents like the one you see in the picture.

You need to first make sure that you have enough access to get to the back of the bumper by removing part or the entire bumper cover.
Use a professional grade auto body heat gun and start by heating the creased area of the bumper in a circular motion, then slowly working your way inwards.
Keep a bucket of water and a rag available so you can cool the bumper as you shape it.
Slowly use a pry bar, piece of wood to push out the dent, then cool it with your wet rag as you shape.

That’s it. Now you know how to repair plastic bumpers

How To Repair Plastic Bumpes – After

For some people… this is all they want to do. For you, maybe you want to completely finish and paint it with a basic bumper paint. Later in this series, we will show you how to repair the minor imperfections, apply filler and completely paint the bumper to give it a fresh new look.

If you want to learn more Quick-Fixes in the auto body and paint industry and know EXACTLY how to paint, repair and customize your vehicle or bike then be sure to take a look at our VIP Members Club where we take you behind the scenes into the world of body shop secrets and short-cuts.

Thousands of VIP members from across the world are taking advantage of our step-by-step do it yourself auto body and paint trainings right now! To learn more and to get a Free auto body and paint manual click here: http://learnautobodyandpaint.com/blog/2012/04/04/how-to-repair-plastic-bumpers-plastic-bumper-repair

Automotive Paint Mixing Ratios – How To Mix Auto Paint – Mixing Car Paint

2012-10-20T06:46:00.000-07:00

How To Mix Automotive Paint in simple detail…

When a lot of newbie enthusiasts get into automotive painting there is something that usually confuses them.
Automotive paint mixing ratios.

That’s why you may be watching this video and reading this blog post. Well, mixing automotive paint is really a lot simpler than you think.

First let’s talk about single stage paints.

Single stage paints are a stand alone type of paint. No clear is necessary to produce a gloss. Think of it as ladys nail polish. You can lay a few coats of paint and you’re done. It’s glossy and durable.
A general mixing ratio for single stage paints is a 8/1/1 mixture. You will have 3 basic paint materials.

Your Main Paint in which ever color you desire from metallics to solids.
Reducer to thin down your paint so you don’t end up with orange peel problems.
Hardener which is also known as Activator. Both are a catalyst which helps your paint cure and dry for a lasting finish.

In simple terms, let’s use 8oz cup sizes in this example because like you already know, there are 8oz in each cup. So for every 8 cups of paint you pour into your large mixing bucket you’ll have to add 1 cup of reducer and 1 cup of hardener. All of this mixed up will give you 10 cups of paintable material. Get it?

Depending on how well your paint looks when checking the viscosity while mixing and doing the drip test like I show you how to do in the VIP area of this site, you may need to add more reducer give or take. That’s the general mixing ratio for a single stage paint. Other brands may be a little different, but now you have the basic idea. This mixing ratio is for the ShopLine product by PPG.

Two Stage Painting Ratio’s:

Base Coat Clear Coat Paint’s as you may know are todays newest paint products. The water borne paint is also a base/clear paint. Base coat mixing is always a 50/50 mixture.

Very easy. 1 cup of base (your paint color) + 1 cup reducer = ready to paint.
Your paint never goes bad. If you have left over, just cap it in a glass jar or your paint can and seal it up. When you are ready for your next job, just mix again and you’re ready to paint. It makes it a LOT easier if you know your paint viscosity and can apply the drip test every time you’re getting ready to paint. Then it won’t matter if you put your leftovers from your gun back into the can of your unmixed base coat. I show you the short-cuts of the trade within the VIP members club of this site. No worries.

Clear Coat mixing for base/clear paints:

When mixing clear coat again, pretty simple. Usually depending on the brand you get you have a 4/1 or a 2/1 mixing ratio. So if you have been following along so far I really shouldn’t have to explain this one for you
I’ll do it anyway… a 4/1 mixing ratio goes like this. 4 parts of your clear coat to one part of your hardener. For a Gallon of clear in your bucket, you’ll add one quart of hardener… and the last time I checked there were still 4 quarts in a gallon.

Hope this post cleared a lot of confusion out of the air for you! If you are looking to get into automotive auto body and paint for a special project, or a money making venture, we would love to help you get started and off the ground quickly.

Making things simple for you is our business. If you want to learn more about the Learn Auto Body And Paint VIP Membership community and how it can help you …feel free to check it out.

To learn more and to get a Free auto body and paint manual click here: http://learnautobodyandpaint.com/blog/2012/04/18/automotive-paint-mixing-ratios

What Size Air Compressor To Paint a Car?

2012-10-20T06:43:00.000-07:00

We got a new question from a loyal subscriber of learnautobdyandpaint.com

“Hi Tony, im new to the auto body/paint world and just want to ask: What is the reason for needing a 50 – 60 gallon compressor? and why cant i use a 25-30 gallon compressor for a complete paint job? if due to pressure variation. Can we paint the whole car by steps? say one side, let the compressor fill up, then the front, let the compressor fill up, then the other side, again, let the compressor fill up then finish with the back of the car. If this is possible, can you teach us how..?”

Answer…
With a small air compressor tank you simply don’t have the air volume (cfm) to paint an entire car at one shot. Your gun will strain and struggle.
Your smaller tank will most likely run out of air while you’re spraying non stop… going around a full car at once etc…
You can take a chance and paint the entire car at one shot if you can hear and feel the air pressure drop and adjust accordingly. (I’ve done it) and had no problems because of so many years of experience painting cars.
By doing this (You will also have condensation problems) your smaller tank WILL get hot and create water because of constantly being on and running. See, water usually builds up in tanks anyway, that’s why you have a drain at the bottom of your air compressor tank. Also be sure to drain it once in a while. More often if you have a smaller tank.
When painting with a smaller tank like a 15-25 gallon …you’ll have to keep draining the tank every 2-3 passes around the car just to be safe. OR, leave it cracked a little so as water builds up it will automatically drain out. It’s also wise to have a (in-line) water separator off your tank about 10-15 feet from your tank and one at the neck of your gun. This goes for small compressors or big shop style. It’s just good insurance to have.

Painting a Car

The tricky part… YES, you can paint the car in steps (same day) with a smaller air compressor but you may run into problems with overspray on the clear coat stage. When laying clear on the car you want to spray it on at once because if you wait too long and spray you will make your other glossy clear panels dull from the overspray that you create. You have a certain time frame where overspray will just melt into fresh clear coat, which is what painting flash times are all about. More on this within the VIP cub.

When freshly sprayed clear coat becomes tacky and you create more overspray by spraying other adjacent panels because you had to wait for your tank to refill etc…

The overspray from the clear coat will cause your job look dull. Of course if you plan to completely color sand and buff you wouldn’t have a problem. What you can do is, if not painting with candy, flake or pearl… paint the hood, the front bumper and your two front fenders at once.

You know, two coats of base and two coats of clear coat. Let that completely dry, then a day or two later mask all of the painted parts, then paint your roof, and doors that day, and a few days later do your rear quarter panels, trunk and rear bumper to complete the job.

That way you complete the job till the end and you won’t have overspray nor will you need to buff.
It will basically take 3 days painting to paint your car.

I hope you understood my point! Thanks for the great question

I hope this short article inspired that yes you still can paint your car or project with a smaller compressor.
Don’t let things like this stop you. The successful person figures ways to get things done no matter how ignorant or lack of resources they may have.

To learn more and to get a Free auto body and paint manual click here: http://learnautobodyandpaint.com/blog/2012/05/25/what-size-air-compressor-to-paint-a-car

If you want to learn about our VIP course and community click here to check it out! We currently have thousands of VIP members taking advantage of our library of step-by-step videos, private member only forums, and access to instant support from our team of VIP members and experts that can help you with your current or next auto body and paint project.

How To Smoke Tail Lights

2012-10-19T06:37:00.002-07:00

In this short video we’ll show you how easy it really is… How to smoke tail lights yourself.

Basically, all you have to do is sand your plastic lenses with 1500-2000 grit sand paper. Preferably wet sand. You’d just get a better cut with wet sanding. Now, some say you need a adhesive promoter… I think it’s a bunch of crap. As long as you sand your lens, you wont need it.

Mix your automotive clear coat like you would use it to spray your car. All you do is add 5-10% of unreduced black base coat into it and mix it up. Pretty simple right? Then lay 2-3 coats or more until your desired smokiness shows on your lens. In this example I purposely didn’t go that dark because the cops around here are a pain in the A$$. The finished look came out nice.

There are a few benefits to you when doing this.

1. You’re keeping your OEM lights and will have a good fit.
2. If you’re a DIY guy, you’ll get the satisfaction of doing it yourself!
3. You can save some cash if you’re into this stuff and already have spray guns etc…

If you’re not fully prepared to do this but want to get into this then cool. We have a VIP community that will support you through your progress. The learnautobodyandpaint.com VIP club is a Amazing community with thousands of worldwide members that strive to learn and improve their auto body and paint skills themselves.
If you want to learn more about customizing cars, doing custom paint jobs, auto body work etc… then you MUST check out the LABAP VIP community right here… Join thousands of like minded members, learn an envied skill and show-off your skills to friends and family!

Please feel free to post your comments below, we would love to hear back from you!

Also, see what we have to offer you, thousands of VIP members recommend us to you. See a preview of the VIP club here and all the benefits that you get.

To learn more and to get a Free auto body and paint manual click here: http://learnautobodyandpaint.com/blog/2012/06/15/how-to-smoke-tail-lights

How To Paint and Install a Body Kit

2012-10-19T06:31:00.003-07:00

Here’s an awesome video that shows how to paint and install a body kit!

Let’s talk body kits shall we?

When buying body kits you basically have 2 options.

1. Spend more and get a quality polyurethane kit so you have less body work.

2. Save on cash… get a Duraflex type of kit and do some body work and paint to getting looking like a quality kit.

Most fiberglass body kits are NOT perfect.
They have waves, thin spots, thick spots, and you really need to do a good job with your body work and prep stage if want to get it looking like a decent kit (and also have the girls impressed).

Have you seen some kids or grown men on the streets in their cars with a body kit on it, but when you look closer, you see waves, ripples, paint blemishes etc… and it just looks like crap? …seen those?

That’s because all they did was prime it and paint it. And it came out looking like crap.
If you want the easy way, Polyurethane kits are the way to go. They are much more expensive but will save you the process in having to do a complete skim coat to remove all of the imperfections.

So, what did we did to the BMW 545i project?

We did (option 2.).

We got the cheap kit, customized it and made it look like a MILLION DOLLARS! and yep! again, we recorded the ENTIRE step-by-step process so YOU can C O P Y and apply the same techniques to your specific projet no matter if your doing this to your car, truck or bike!

And if you’re spending the extra bucks and getting a Polyurethane bodykit or a quality fiberglass kit like the Bomex body kit (made in Japan).

Then you won’t need to bust your ass doing a lot of filler work, but you still need to know how to prep that baby for paint and PRO Gloss so it kicks in the SUN!

I Hope this SHORT video inspired that you can do this! You may need a little guidance but that’s why we’re here… all you need to do is.. DO!

Remember, all of these Awesome videos are available to YOU inside of the VIP club.

To learn more and to get a Free auto body and paint manual click here: http://learnautobodyandpaint.com/blog/2012/06/26/how-to-paint-install-body-kit

5 Auto Body And Paint Surface Preparation Tips

2012-10-19T06:26:00.002-07:00

Did you know that professional painters can devote up to 95% of their time on surface preparation alone?

It’s True!

You may or may not know but auto painting consists of a series of tasks. When combined these stages produce a quality paint job that looks fantastic, feels smooth and flawless, adheres securely and has lasting durability. When a job comes out nice, you also feel pretty damn good too!

The outcome of any auto painting stage is determined by the thoroughness and result of the previous stage. Poor work during any stage will affect the end result, remember this. Just make sure you complete each stage of the painting process to the very best of your ability. If you make a mistake, don’t pass over it, simply go back and correct it, no big deal. It’s all a learning curve.

Don’t rush any of the stages, always keep your end goal in mind; a professional looking paint job that you will be genuinely proud of for years to come.

Auto Body Surface Preparation embodies 5 areas that ultimately prepare auto body surfaces ready for paint.

Click on any of the 5 links below for more information on each topic.

Auto Part Removal
Auto Paint Removal
Applying Primers
Auto Paint Prep and Sanding
Using correct Auto Surface Cleaners

How To Paint Cars – (Questions & Answers) on learnautobodyandpaint.com

2012-10-08T23:16:00.003-07:00

In this post I want you to post your most burning how to paint cars question. I have been getting a ton of email from my subscribers to do more whiteboard style teachings of how to paint a car.

You see, automotive painting need not be difficult. In fact it’s really easy once you understand the concept.
Yes I will agree with you… There are many ways, and techniques that people use to do auto body repair. Some professional auto body men will tell you to paint one way and another will say to do something else. You know like, mixing car paint.

Like I say, there are many ways to skin a cat and with that being said… there are many ways to do body work and to paint a car. What you need to do is pick one person who you think is good at what they do and follow their methods.

That’s really it. Kinda like martial arts.
When learning a certain martial art method you usually study one style of fighting at a time right? Unless it’s mixed martial arts but still, you get what I mean. Otherwise you’ll get confused.

We here at learnautobodyandpaint.com have a LOT of experience in auto body and custom painting. I have been painting cars since I was 15! Now almost 30 with 15 years of experience in the auto body and paint industry. I think that says enough.

Anyway, all you have to do at this point is post your most burning questions about auto body repair below and we will start making amazing content videos that you can take notes on and learn from. We will start with the most common auto painting questions and work from there.

To learn more and to get a Free auto body and paint manual click here: http://learnautobodyandpaint.com/blog/2012/07/08/how-to-paint-cars-questions-answers-learnautobodyandpaint-com

If you want to learn about our VIP course and community click here to check it out!

How To Paint Plastic Car Parts (aerosol bumper paint)

2012-10-08T22:59:00.003-07:00

n the video above we tackle the most common fix in the industry. You know when you see those ugly faded plastic bumpers right? Well, we’re going to show you how to paint plastic car parts so you can make your project look a LOT better!

There are 3 ways to fix this kind of eye sore.
1. You can try to scrub them with some car soap or degreaser and wash the oxidation off.
2. You can buy a solution they sell (like a basic rubbing compound) which works well, and just rub it out. Some ppl use peanut butter! I personally think that’s a little wacky but whatever floats your boat. I’de rather use come compound. the same compound that you’d use to buff your car.
3. If the bumper really looks bad (Paint It!).
That’s what we’ve decided to do in the 7 minute video above.
Keep in mind that this job was a QUCKIE. We didn’t bother to fill in the minor scratches with glaze putty that were on the rear bumper cover. Good thing. Because I found out that the truck was backed into something a week later and got ruffed up even more.
The first step to painting plastic parts is to properly clean your plastic. I prefer lacquer thinner.
REMEMBER: there us a difference between ‘paint thinner and ‘lacquer thinner’. You want to use lacquer thinner. Next, pick some cans of SEM bumper coater. It’s good stuff and they also have a formula now where you don’t need to worry about adhesion promoter (stuff to put on the plastic so your paint sticks).
Mask. Take your time and do a good job. Prep is the most inportant part of painting. If you do a crapy job masking, the job will look like hell.
You can lightly wet sand your plastic with 600 grit if you wish but I wouldn’t go any courser. The bumper paint is thin and you may have problems covering. As long as your parts are washed well with lacquer thinner you’re safe to paint directly on your plastic bumper.
Spray 2-3 coats or until full coverage. …and that’s basically it.
Hope you enjoied this post. Feel free to comment and share this post. We would love to hear back from you!

To learn more and to get a Free auto body and paint manual click here: http://learnautobodyandpaint.com/blog/2012/08/04/how-to-paint-plastic-car-parts

If you enjoied this quick article and video about auto body and paint tricks and tips, do check out our EXCLUSIVE VIP Club right here. Take advantage of our cutting-edge training materials that cover all topics of auto body repair. From complete custom painting, rust repair, body kit installation, modifications and painting.

Chemicals, Rust repair – How To Fix Rust

2012-10-08T22:01:00.001-07:00

In this post we’ll quickly talk about the proper chemicals that you need to treat rust on your vehicle.

When learning how to fix rust, first, identify your rusted area. Grind all bubbles and rust off. Now you want to apply some chemical over the freshly grinded and cleaned area.

If you look around in the market you’ll find many chemicals that you can use. I recommend a few. They are easy to find and they work well.
The first one is Naval Jelly by Loctite. It’s reliable and very easy to use. My father has been using this stuff for over 25 years.

The second is a home made mixture that you can make yourself. Ready?

Vinegar water. Just mix about a cup of vinegar to about a half gallon of purified water. That’s it. You can keep it in a bottle and it will last for about a year or so.

The third chemical is called POR-15. http://www.por15.com/ Be sure to use the Pro 15 marine clean first and follow the manufactures instructions. Easy to use but a bit more on the money side.

Another popular way of removing rust without chemicals is by sand blasting. You can purchase sandblasting media from eastwood or even a place like Lowes or Home Depot. If you plan to sandblast yourself be sure to wear safety goggles and gloves as the media will ricochet off the metal.
After a rusted area had been cleaned and chemically treated with your choice of inhibitor to kill the rust, the next step depends on what part of the car you’re working on.

Next would be to patch and or fill the area and body worked smooth.

If you can get to the back side of the rusted area it is wise to spray an undercoating to seal the back from moisture. Most kinds of rubberized undercoating works well. I use the Bondo brand, Rustoleum, or 3M.
This will ensure that ou get the longest lasting repair on your project. Always treat the back if you can get to it. If you don’t, it’s literally a open invitation for the rust to come back sooner than later.

Another trick that my father started to do about 10 years ago is stopped using galvanized steel to weld in as patches and started to use stainless steel. When welding in galvanized steel you need to make sure to grind of the galvanized area on both sites of the metal before spot welding the patch in. If you didn’t do that, you’ll end up with a lot of popping durung your welds.
By using stainless steel, you only have to grind a little to ensure your spot weld tips sont slip while welding. To give it a rough surface to grip. Don’t worry if you seem a little lost in this explanation, we cover all of this in great detail within the VIP Training section of this site and you can learn more about that here: http://www.learnautobodyandpaint.com/vip and show you exactly how you can repair rust on your project in step-by-step detail.

In conclusion, when using stainless, it’s not only easier and faster. It’s stainless so it will NOT rust! It’s a great idea and we only use this steel when using sheet metal for rust repair.
We hope you enjoyed this article and learned a little about how to fix rust and chemicals for rust repair.

To learn more and to get a Free auto body and paint manual click here: http://learnautobodyandpaint.com/blog/2012/08/06/chemicals-rust-repair-how-to-fix-rust

How Much Does It Cost To Paint a Car?

2012-10-03T21:23:00.002-07:00

In the video above we talk about how much does it coat to paint a car.

The first question you want to ask yourself is, “what kind of paint do I want to use to paint mt car?”

And it all depends on your budget.

How much does it cost to paint my car with an enamel paint?

If you have a low budget, then you’ll want to use a single stage enamel paint. It’s cheaper and faster. You basically have to lay 2-3 medium – wet coats on the car and in about 3 hours you can touch it. It won’t be fully cured but it will be dry enough for you to lightly swipe your fingers over without causing any imperfections to the paint. acrylic-enamel-auto-paint

The cost will be about $100.00 – $250.00 just for materials depending on the color, brand and amount of paint that you get. Remember this price is all materials. Masking paper, tape, plastic sheeting if needed etc.

For an average size 4 door sedan up to a full size regular cab truck, a 1 gallon setup will be more than enough paint for you to complete your project.

How much does it cost to paint my car using basecoat clearcoat paints?

Basecoat clearcoat paints tend to cost more because it’s a two stage paint. You have your basecoat, which is your color coat. You can get them in ANY color imaginable. From solid colors to metallics and pearls.

Then, you have your clearcoat. Which is painted over your basecoat after it dries. Get it? two stage paint VS a single stage paint? I hope so.

…and if you’re still a little confused don;t worry, we show you all of this on video and explain the entire painting process so you know EXACTLY what to do and how to paint your car yourself. Just see what we offer inside the VIP Club & Community here.

A basic basecoat clearcoat paint job will set you back for about $300 – $500 on average depending on the brand and quality of product that you get. For instance. At the moment you can get a gallon setup of a High-Solids polyurethane clearcoat by PPG for around $130.00.

That’s NOT BAD! and the clear is good!

The more expensive gallon setup from PPG called Concept Deltron 2002 runs about $250.00. And if you are doing something custom and special to your heart. Use this stuff.

Now you have an idea of what clear sells for.

Now I’ll give you a rough ball park on basecoat prices. When buying paint remember this. White colors are the cheapest paint to make and any form of red is the most expensive. When you get into chameleon it gets ridiculous.

A quart of white base can range from $25.00 – $50.00 on average. You’ll need about 2-3 quarts to paint a small to medium size car because when you mix your base, you’ll end up with double. Base is always reduced 1/1.

So, if you buy a quart of base (any color) and mix it for spraying, you’ll end up with 1/2 gallon of sprayable material.

Reds can range from $50.00 – $150. a quart. This can add a lot of money on to that bill. And when you get into Chameleon colors, I’ve seen the prices average $400. – 600. a quart of base. :)

Hopefully now you get a better idea of automotive paint prices. rx7-paint-job

Don’t think that it’s expensive either. There are ways to save money when spraying basecoat clearcoat jobs that can cut out 30-50% off your material cost.

Like when spraying a full car the same color, you really don’t need to buy a lot of base. Most times 1.5 – 2 quarts will be enough. There are also other places online that you can buy quality base and clear from. It need not be PPG.

In conclusion, an average cost for an enamel paint job including ALL materials is about $100. – $250.00 on the high side.

Average cost for basecoat clear coat paints. Base, clear, activator and reducer, some sand paper, masking paper and little bondo etc. You’re looking at around $300. – $500. using quality materials.

To learn more and to get a Free auto body and paint manual click here: http://learnautobodyandpaint.com/blog/2012/08/13/how-much-does-it-cost-to-paint-a-car

If you want to learn about our VIP course and community click here to check it out! We currently have thousands of VIP members taking advantage of our library of step-by-step videos

How Much Paint To Paint a Car

2012-10-03T21:17:00.001-07:00

In this quick video and blog post I’ll talk about a common question that a lot of newbie auto painters ask themselves. How much paint do I need to paint my car? How much paint to paint a car?

The video above explains it all.

But for the readers, I’ll break it down. You want to ask yourself two questions.

1. What size is your vehicle?

2. What type of paint do you plan on using? Will you use enamel, or will you be using base coat clear coat?

For example: Let’s say we’re painting a small Mazda Miata with single stage enamel paint. And because the car is small we’ll only need about 2-2.5 quarts of mixed paint to cover the vehicle two times.

When painting an averaged sized car, a one gallon kit (of enamel paint) is usually just enough for a medium sized sedan car or light truck. Most times you’ll have a little extra.

This is why when painting your car, I do not recommend mixing the whole kit at once. I would mix 3/4 of the kit, then start spraying. Most times that will be enough. If you need more, just mix half of the left over, or all of it.

Basecoat Clearcoat Paint- How Much Paint To Paint a Car?

When painting with a two stake paint you not only need the color (base coat) you’ll also need the clear coat, hence base coat, clear coat.

Example average sized sedan, 2000 Nissan Sentra 4 door sedan:
If painting a car the same color ( maybe you have a few bodywork primer areas) no biggie, Most times, 2-2.5 quarts will be plenty. As you may have already learned on this site, basecoat is always mixed to a 1/1 ratio. So if you have 2 quarts of base, it will make a gallon of sprayable material. If you have a litre of base, it will give you two litre of sprayable material after being reduced with your reducer. Are you with me? if not, just comment below.

If painting a medium sized car a totally different color and you’re doing door jambs, under the hood, trunk etc… 3 quarts will be enough. It will give you 1.5 gallons of paint to spray with. That’s a lot.

The great thing about base coat that I didn’t mention in the video is… You can save and store it if you have left overs. It will not go bad. Just pour it back in a can and seal it up. You can use it a month, or a year later, no problem. Just make sure to check the consistency before using it on your next painting project. Long sitting times may cause the reducer evaporate leaving you with a thicker paint. All you’ll have to do is add a little reducer. Note: you will NOT notice a much thicker paint, it’s almost unnoticeable.

Clear Coat – How Much Paint To Paint a Car?

When buying clear coat get a one gallon kit. It will be more than enough for your complete project big or small. Like I always say, don’t mix the whole thing. Once you mix clear with your activator (hardener) that’s it. You can’t store it and reuse it next week.

It would be a waste if you mixed the entire gallon of clear and only used half or 3/4 of it. Clear can be expensive. Yep, clear can run from $100. a kit to over $300. a kit.

If painting a smaller car like a Miata or a MINI, I would say 2.5 – 3 quarts of mixed clear will be more than enough. Have a gallon of clear ready for painting when painting a large classic Chevy, truck or van.

To learn more and to get a Free auto body and paint manual click here: http://learnautobodyandpaint.com/blog/2012/09/01/how-much-paint-to-paint-a-car

If you want to learn about our VIP course and community click here to check it out! We currently have thousands of VIP members taking advantage of our library of step-by-step videos, private member only forums, and access to instant support from our team of VIP members and experts that can help you with your current or next auto body and paint project.

How To Restore Headlights – Headlight Restoration From Home

2012-10-03T21:12:00.000-07:00

Let’s talk about how to restore headlights using 2k automotive clear coat.

Yeah, I know… your sick and tired of looking at your car and seeing those old and grimy headlights and you want to do something about it.
Or maybe you want to start a headlight restoration business and make some pretty decent part-time cash, just like one of our premium LABAP VIP club members Gary Wolf did after learning a whole lot about auto body repair and paint and automotive detailing.
Here is his website if you want to take a look at his new business http://www.restoremyrides.com I congratulate you Gary for making things happen!

How To Restore Headlights – Headlight Restoration Tips

You have 2 options when it comes to restoring headlamps.

You can Sand & buff (what I usually do)
You can Sand and Clear Coat using a 2k automotive clear coat (like this post and video above)

In this post we will show you the simple process of wet sanding and clear coating your headlights with 2k clear coat. For those of you who don’t know what 2k clear is, basically you have 2 kinds of clear. The first one is 1k. You see then on the shelves of automotive stores like AutoZone, Checkers, O’Reilly and PepBoys. You know… Brands like Krylon and Rustoleum.
They have no hardeners in them and are weak in durability plus they are cheap. You can use them, but you won’t get a long lasting finish if that’s what you’re looking for.

If you want to restore headlights by clear coating them, then I recommend to use a 2k clear coat like I do in the video on the top of this post. They can last longer and won’t fade out every year to 18 months. This method has been tested and used by many people.

There are Pros and Cons, and here are the Pros first.

Easy and affordable to clear coat your headlights
Longer lasting than buffing out headlights
Beautiful high finish gloss after clearing
Very durable when comparing to a 1k clear coat

The Cons

Takes 30 min longer because of masking and painting
You need to buy some automotive clear coat and a spray bottle
May peel in 3-5 years if in consistant sunlight. (you can always sand and re clear though)

So, yes! this is easy as heck to do and you can make your headlights look like new again. You can also start a mini business out of it, like I said one of our VIP members Gary did. Here’s a finished picture below of a completed headlight that we did on a Honda CRV.

n conclusion, when performing any kind of headlight restoration know that you have options. You can wet sand and buff or you can clear coat them. …And if you do clear coat them, then go with a 2k clear coat not a cheap 1k aerosol can of clear. You want them to last and by using a 2k clear coat, it will.
If you end up buffing them, just remember that you’ll probably have to do it every year or two depending on how much they wear off. It really only takes about 10 minutes to complete a pair if you buff them out and they will look nice.

To learn more and to get a Free auto body and paint manual click here: http://learnautobodyandpaint.com/blog/2012/09/20/how-to-restore-headlights-headlight-restoration-from-home

Learn To Paint Cars From the Comfort of Your Own Home!

2012-09-07T02:56:00.000-07:00

When looking at your paint job you may notice scratches, blemishes, and various other imperfections in the paint. Fixing these can cost you exorbitant amounts of money if you decide to employ a professional auto body shop. Did you know that you can learn to paint cars and repair many of these paint issues at home? At learnautobodyandpaint.com, you will find information on courses that will enable you to learn how to paint cars in your garage or at home.

For example, when you learn to paint cars with learnautobodyandpaint.com, you will be given a DVD. This DVD will have all the lessons on them. The tone of the DVD is very personal and gives the illusion that you are having a one on one conversation with the author. He will explain to you the crucial lessons of painting a car. The course on the website also comes with an accompanying eBook. This eBook provides the same information as the DVD, however it is written in a way that will allow quick reference if you are stuck on something.

In addition, learnautobodyandpaint.com will teach you how to construct an area appropriate for painting. One lesson spends a bit of time explaining how to construct a paint booth in your home garage. The author goes over every aspect of this construction. This includes ventilation, cleanliness, and having enough space. If you do not have the area, the author will tell you how to approach your local auto body store to ask about paint booth rental. These rental booths will often have built in ventilation and heating systems for your project. Depending on where you live, it may be more cost effective to rent as opposed to constructing your own paint booth.

Finally, learnautobodyandpaint.com will also explain to you the differences between urethane paint, acrylic lacquer, and acrylic enamel. Knowing the differences and specific uses for these paints will help you choose the right type for your specific project. You would not want to make the mistake of using a urethane on a classic car or restoration job that needs acrylic lacquer.

These are just a few of the tips found at http://learnautobodyandpaint.com. If you decide to take the course, you will undoubtedly save hundreds and possibly thousands learning how to do it at home. What are you waiting for? Learn how to paint a car now!