Note to Reader: The following tips apply to “pre-winter” and ‘middle of the season’ winter maintenance. Now, just because winter has started, it doesn’t mean you should neglect your duties as a car owner. I was actually looking for a better word apart from “duties” to describe what you need to do to help keep your car in tiptop condition during these cold months, but I couldn’t find any. Yes, you have a duty to keep your car in great shape. While vehicle maintenance may not seem like a pressing duty these days, neglecting simple things like auto tune ups can eventually lead to costly reparations, or worse, expensive auto-part or entire-vehicle replacement.

Tip #8: Conduct a Tune-Up!

Now if you’re a responsible vehicle owner, then you already know the importance of regular tune ups. But in case you missed my previous posts on this topic (multi-posts at that!) then I’ll give you two reasons why you should conduct regular auto tune ups: (1) It helps keep your car performing at its best by making sure your engine and ignition components are in great shape, and (2) it helps you catch small auto issues before they become full-blown, migraine-inducing, automotive problems—possibly saving you hundreds of dollars in the long run.

While a couple of auto breakdowns during the warmer seasons may seem like “petty issues” to some of us, it’s a completely different story when you find yourself stranded in the middle of nowhere in the dead of winter with a busted car. When you feel

every muscle in your body starting to freeze when you step out of your car, then you’ll know you’re in deep trouble. Avoid turning into a human popsicle by making sure your car is in great shape before, during, and even after the winter season.

Because broken fan belts, hoses-gone-bad, frozen water pumps, arcing ignition wires, and malfunctioning distributor rotors and caps, are the usual culprits when it comes to auto breakdowns, it’s better to make sure each one of these auto units are in good condition before embarking in any long winter trips.

I know that the word “tune-up” can encompass virtually anything and everything that has to do with repairs and replacements, that’s why we’re going to be tackling some of the most important steps you shouldn’t forget when conducting a tune-up. If you decide to do a little “extra” work on your car, then that’s good news for both you and your car! If you don’t have the time to go through every single component in your vehicle, then I suggest checking at least the following:

Misc. Tip

Its widely known that winter time brings with it more auto expenses. Auto accident rates skyrocket with snow and icy conditions. Proper maintenance will certainly help you and your auto be better prepared for these conditions. In the mean time you might want to check out some cheap auto insurance savings tips as there is a very good chance you will have even minor accidents this winter.

Step #1: Check your tire pressure levels. If you don’t have the tools to check your tire pressure levels, then you can ask your local mechanic to do it for you—sometimes even for free! But since it’s Christmas, you might want to leave a nice tip for your mechanic.

If your vehicle has built-in tire pressure monitors, then you won’t have to worry about frequent tire checks, since these monitors should alert you when there are drastic changes in your car’s tire pressure levels. But if you notice one or all of your tires going soft gradually, then it’s best to still conduct a manual check once in a while.

Spark Plug Wires

Step #2: Pop open your hood and have a good look at your spark plug wires! Now, I would advise you to conduct this check at night, or with minimum light to be able to see arcing properly. If you see tiny lights or sparks coming from your wires, then you have some arcing going on—and you’re going to have to replace your ignition wires as soon as possible.

When replacing your ignition wires, that’s when you’re going to need more light. Remove each wire one at a time to make sure you can install your new wires in their correct order. If you have cracked or dried-up wires, it’s better to replace them now rather than later.

Oil Change

Step #3: Have a look at your engine oil to see if you need an oil change. Actually, you’re supposed to be doing this at least once a month, so whether you like it or not, you really can’t skip this step. Take note of your last oil change to gauge how often you need to repeat this process every year.

Step #4: Locate your battery and inspect it and its posts. If you’re having difficulties starting your car this season, then your ignition and your battery will have to be checked thoroughly for damage. Now when it comes to your battery, you can prevent damage from taking place by regularly cleaning your battery posts and removing grime, muck, and debris, which could affect your automobile’s performance.

Step #5: Check those brakes! If it takes a while for your brakes to bite during the rainy season, then you should know that it’s even more difficult to come to a full stop properly when there’s ice on the streets. Make sure your brakes are up to par, by inspecting your brake lines, brake shoes, and other braking components for signs of damage. If the damage on any of these components is extensive, then I suggest prompt replacing or repair.

Step #7: Replace your distributor cap and rotor. That goes without saying. When conducting an ignition tune up, you’ll need to check your cap and rotor for signs of damage—and most of the time; you’ll need to do some replacing as well. Also remember to clean out the area surrounding your distributor as well, to help prevent corrosion from starting and spreading.

Step #8: Lastly, look for leaks and plug ‘em up! Looking under your vehicle after parking for a few hours is an easy way to locate leaks. Find out where the dripping fluid is coming from and do the necessary plugging or replacing needed to eliminate leaks from your ride.

Note to Reader: Still don’t have my train horns in place, but I’m pretty sure I’ll manage to install it by the end of the year. <<< Now, see the importance of planning things in advance? Setting your auto-related “goal” well in advance gives you time to plan out your actions. Right now, I’m still a bit busy winter-proofing my neighbor’s vehicle—for a pretty good price too! I’m still trying to decide whether to say “yes” to Rum Raisin Apple Pie (?) or Bittersweet Choco Pecan Pie. What do you think? Which one would be better for Christmas Eve?

Okay, with that question having been asked, let’s get back to our winter tips, shall we? So in the last post about winter reminders, you were asked to keep your headlights fully-functioning, keep your gas tank as close to FULL as possible, and to check your tire pressure levels. The next few tips should cover winter-proofing your engine cooling system and windshield. So, without further ado, let’s get back to business.

Antifreeze/Coolant

Tip #6: Inspect your Cooling System and Check your Water-Coolant/Antifreeze Levels.

Coolant or antifreeze, is basically the (usually) bright-colored solution that goes inside your vehicle’s radiator. Most of the time, cars run using a 50/50 mixture of water and coolant—but to be sure, it’s always best to check your owner’s manual for specific instructions regarding the correct water-coolant mixture.

Now, during winter, it’s always good advice for you to keep your water-coolant levels as close to full as possible. You’re probably wondering:

“Why add water-coolant mixture when it’s winter?” Well, even if it’s winter, your engine still heats up pretty fast, especially when you’re traveling long distances. I say, just don’t risk it! An overheating engine can cause a lot of problems under your hood. Plus, coolant helps keep your engine operating properly—it’s the best way to winter-proof your cooling system and to prolong your engine’s life.

Also, don’t make the mistake of adding 100 percent pure coolant into your radiator. Coolant freezes easily. The water’s there to help keep your coolant well below freezing point. If the coolant freezes up, expect it to expand and to kick out your engine block faster than you can say “mother-quacker”. And if you’re not sure about the freeze rating of your vehicle’s coolant, then I suggest you get one of those itsy-bitsy testers they sell in your local garage or parts store. Try to stay as far away from your coolant’s freezing point to avoid shelling out for a new engine block.

I hope you remembered to perform your annual radiator flush last spring! And now that we’re done with antifreeze/coolant discussion, let’s head on to the next topic: winter-proofing your windshield wiper!

Replacing Your Wiper

Tip #7: Make the Necessary Wiper Replacements this Season, and Don’t Forget to Check your Windshield Washer Fluid Levels Too!

To prevent a little snow on your windshield from accumulating and completely turning your automobile into a frozen car-cicle, you’ll need to invest in a great set of new windshield wipers. Unless you’ve recently replaced your wipers in the last few months, I’m willing to bet your wipers are in pretty bad shape after clearing your windshield glass of countless storms.

Windshield wipers may not seem very important at winter, but if you drive frequently during snowy weather, you’ll know how hard it is to drive a straight line when white stuff from the sky keeps falling on your windshield, obstructing your view of the road. Now, add reckless drivers in front of you zooming off and kicking snowy mush or muck onto your windshield to the mix, and you’re well on your way to an accident caused by poor driving visibility.

Take some time to make sure your windshield wipers are in great condition. If they aren’t buy new ones. Some manufacturers actually produce winter-specific wiper blades that are designed to withstand really harsh weather. So, you might want to get those for your car.

These winter wipers usually have thick rubber coverings that prevent ice and snow from collecting on the windshield wiper blade. But while this winter-specific product may seem like the cat’s pajamas during the cold season, make sure you remove these blades by spring—otherwise your wiper motor’s going to give out soon from all the effort of having to move heavier blades.

Lastly, Do make sure your windshield washer fluid levels are high during the winter season. You’re going to need lots and lots of washer fluid to help keep your windshield spotless during your travels. So check your windshield washer fluid levels now—and add more fluid if needed.

Now all along I thought that train horns are just for trains, right? Well I was wrong. You see friend of mine started to, from his own words, “pimp out” his old mini-vans with locomotive horns. It’s kinda cool you know, when he installed the horns onto his Chevy Astro. It looked vintage but with a twist. He said he would also install a megaphone and take the van to the Superbowl next year. It’s an awesome idea. Now imagine what the horns would like in a Ford F-150 on a stadium parking lot. Sweet.

Aside from the aesthetic value of train horns, these honkers do their work real good. A long sound blast could definitely gain the attention you need. Just be careful when and where to blast these horns. Better not cause inconvenience and attract unwanted attention.

I would like to do an installation myself and as soon as I do one, I’d post a tutorial here. I checked online and found this online store carrying super loud Train Horns. The site, TrainHornsDelivered.com offers free shipping on all purchases, so if ever you’re planning to get one better check out their website. I plan to get one just before New Year’s eve.

Tip # 3: Keep Your Headlights Clean and Snow-Free As Much As Possible, Even If You Don’t Think You’ll Be Using Them. During the winter season, days generally become shorter. If it’s snowing pretty bad in your area, then you can expect inches of snow to cling to your headlights, limiting your driving visibility greatly. One of the downsides of snowy weather is how your surroundings can become dark as night in a matter of hours—sometimes even just minutes! You’re driving and just minutes after light snow coats your hood, it becomes more and more difficult to see oncoming vehicles. And we all know how difficult it is to trust your brakes when your vehicle is crawling through icy streets. This is why it pays to have fully-functional headlights which you can use during poor visibility conditions. (Fog lights are generally used during the winter, but it pays to have an awesome pair of headlights too.)

Another reason why it pays to clean out your headlights before you travel is that it helps prevent the buildup of snow, sand, salt, and other debris which could cause long-term damage to your headlights. These harmful agents can easily diminish the effectiveness of your headlights in the long run, requiring you to replace both headlight assemblies come spring. Save more by keeping your headlights in tiptop condition instead.

One way you can resist the temptation of ignoring headlight-maintenance during winter is by bringing out your shop rags and towels while you’re still at home. This way, you’ll be reminded to wipe the thin sheet of ice coating your tail lights before you pull off the driveway every morning. Another trick that works for me is to have my squeegee and towel resting on the hood—that way I’ll have zero excuses when it comes to cleaning my headlights.

Tip #4: Try to Keep your Gas Tank Full as Often as Possible. I wouldn’t want to scare you or anything, but seriously, winter is the worst time to run out of gas in the middle of nowhere or miles away from civilization. While summer is the time to hitchhike or walk to the nearest gas station to get some gas for your ride, fewer vehicles are out during the winter season. Unless you’d like to get hypothermia walking to a fuel station that’s miles away from where you’re parked, or waiting in your car with only the heat of your engine keeping your blood passably fluid, I suggest you keep things safe by keeping your fuel tank close to full as often as possible.

Another reminder, if you do get stranded due to engine failure, please don’t keep your engine running and sleep in the confines of your locked and weatherproof car. If you happen to have exhaust leaks, carbon monoxide may seep in—and we all know how carbon monoxide tends to have fatal side effects. I mean, why else would movie stars use it to “off” themselves, right?

Again, avoid this scenario altogether by keeping your tank filled with gas.

Tip #5: Check your Tires for Signs of Wear and Regularly Inspect Your Tire Pressure Levels. Unless you’re driving with brand new snow tires, it’s crucial that you keep your old snow tires in tiptop condition. Now, if snow isn’t really a problem in your area, it still pays to keep your regular tires in great working order. Remember the difference between getting to your destination of choice safely and colliding with an immovable tree or road sign during the course of your travels would have to be your ability to stop completely before collision. Stopping quickly and efficiently requires you to have more than a dependable braking system, it requires excellent tire traction. Check your tire treads to see if your tires are in need of replacing. Also check your wheel alignment—heavy inside wear or outside wear indicates misaligned tires, which is something that you need to address immediately.

Also keep in mind that it’s harder to control your vehicle during winter time, so what you may consider as “normal” tire wear during summer may be disastrous come winter season. According to the National Transportation Safety Board, you need to check each tire’s tread depth to find out if it’s time to replace your worn tires. Usually you need 2/32” of tread depth at the minimum to ensure that all your winter travels are going to be safe. I say, if you notice excessive wear on some parts of your tires—even if not all areas have less than 2/32”, replace your tires immediately. It’s one of the instances where it’s better to be safe than sorry.

Another tire-related tip that you need to keep in mind is periodically inspecting your tire pressure levels. Some people say that cold weather tends to decrease your tire pressure, so once in a while, do take the time to check each of your tires to see which ones are in need of a little more air. Remember, before you pump your tires to the maximum tire pressure allowable, check your tire pressure levels first! Pumping too much air into your tires can result to less traction, which really isn’t much better than driving soft tires.

To find out the right tire pressure levels for your ride, consult your owner’s manual or ask your local mechanic.

Lastly, do make it a point to carry a spare tire along each time you travel. Back that up with a reliable jack, your toolbox, and your owner’s manual in case you ever need a roadside tire change. Because snowy weather tends to affect your driving visibility, it makes it harder for you to spot sharp rocks or debris along the road. In case you end up with a flat, at least you have all the tools you need to install your spare tire.

Winter’s here! And for most of us, it’s sure to be a white Christmas. This may not be the happiest Christmas for everyone, what with all the problems most of us are facing, but the best way to somewhat enjoy the holidays is to make the best out of what we still have—for some good health, for others a great family, others still excellent friends, and I’m hoping that you, like me, are still thankful that you have a car to drive to town with.

For me, the best thing about winter is snow. I usually stay over at my sister’s place with the rest of my family to celebrate the holidays with them. Snow is almost-always present especially during the latter parts of December. So I have to remember to take extra-care of my vehicle and to drive really slowly, or to not drive at all when the streets are icy.

One of the most amusing driving reminders I’ve ever gotten from a close friend is that: “If the roads are wet, drive like it’s snowing. If the streets have snow, then drive like they’re icy. And if the roads are icy, then don’t drive at all.” The cool thing about this tip is that it’s actually a great way to avoid accidents! And while this tip doesn’t just apply to the winter season, it’s more recommended during the colder parts of the year.

We all know that during winter, starting your car is generally harder than usual. Especially if you park it overnight outside your garage where snow can make a car-cicle out of your ride. During winter, inspecting and repairing your vehicle also becomes ten times harder than normal, especially if you don’t have enough room in your garage. When your garage is too small, you’ll have to conduct your auto-check outside your house—and the next thing you’ll know, you’re knee-deep in freezing snow with little or absolutely no access to your chassis components. Car care also becomes a problem, because no amount of outdoor heating methods could prevent the water you use to clean your vehicle from turning into ice upon contact. One way you can keep your ride well-prepared for the winter season is by conducting all the auto checks and maintenance processes before snow falls.

To complete your winter auto checklist, I’ve compiled some of the best tips I’ve gotten in all my years of driving and repairing automobiles. Let’s start this multi-post topic with regular and winter-specific auto maintenance steps.

Winter Car Care and Auto Maintenance Tips

I’d like to start this multi-entry post with basic car maintenance tips and reminders that are generally winter-specific. So without further ado…onto the first tip!

Tip #1: Don’t Forget to Use Snow Tires. If you really need to drive during the snowy weather—meaning your boss won’t let you work from home or you need to travel to your relatives’ place out of town—play it safe by investing in great snow tires. Snow tires help increase traction, making your travels a lot faster and safer. And yes, while having to remount and balance your snow tires every single year can be such a pain in the neck, if you’ve ever driven sans snow tires through icy roads (which I seriously don’t recommend!), you’ll know that these specialized tires can mean the difference between a safe trip and a fatal accident. Be safe and use snow tires.

But if you’re really feeling incredibly lazy, or if you really hate having to remount and rebalance these tires each winter, then one way you can save time (but not money) is by getting your vehicle four steel rims. Take your snow tires and permanently mount them onto the steel rims. This should make it easier for you to install your snow tires, and later remove them when spring comes.

Now I understand that with the recent economic troubles we’re facing, it may be harder for most of us to purchase complete sets of winter tires. While it’s still best to have all four mounted on your car, if you can’t buy four snow tires and you have a two-wheel drive (front wheel drive or rear wheel drive), then two would usually do. Mount your snow tires on the wheels that are directly driven by your vehicle’s engine. If you have an “all-wheel-drive” on your hands, then I’m sorry to say that you need to have FOUR snow tires on your car.

If you don’t have space in your garage for your regular tires, then ask your local garage if they could store your regular tires throughout the winter season. Most tire shops will also charge a small fee for storage. Once winter is done, you can also ask them to store your snow tires until the next Thanksgiving.

Tip #2: Conduct Complete and Thorough Auto Cleaning, And Try to Keep Your Vehicle as Clean As You Can After. The first day you spot snow on the roads or on your roof, make it a point to take the time to clean your car completely (both inside and out!). It’s not just for aesthetic purposes, it’s also to help you keep your driving visibility at its best during the ultra-cold season. Since mirrors have a tendency to fog, keep all your glass surfaces as transparent and clear as possible by scraping away the buildup of snow or ice using an ice scraper or a snowbrush. Your auto lights should also be kept as snow-free as possible. So take the time to remove all traces of ice on your ride at least once a week.

Now that your auto lights and mirrors are snow-free, your work is done, right? Nope! There’s more work to be done, and for good reason. Remove snow from the rest of your ride. You’re probably wondering why you need to clean your ride when all that’s important are your lights and mirrors… well, let’s just say that if you happen to have snow piling up on your roof, sludge could easily make its way down your windshield after you hit the brakes—obscuring your vision and possibly even causing you to collide with an oncoming car. Some states also require vehicles to be ice-free during winter… so you can avoid a ticket by keeping your car as clean as you can all season long.

**Note: The second picture shows a snow tire.

Note to Reader 9: My final post on troubleshooting your engine. I know that sometimes looking at these symptoms can be a bit confusing, after all, stalling is staling, whether you’re running at high speeds or idling. But the fact is, you need to accurately pinpoint your auto symptoms to find out the possible factors behind your engine problems. Remember that the moment you experience engine problems, it’s always best to clear your schedule as soon as possible for a complete auto check or tune-up.

If your vehicle uses up more oil than normal, but almost no smoke is exiting from your exhaust… You may notice this symptom between oil changes. You notice that your car’s oil level is becoming suspiciously low, too quickly. It’s never happened before, and it doesn’t seem like your engine is consuming more oil than usual. The weird thing is that you can’t find even the smallest amounts of smoke in your exhaust. If your vehicle is exhibiting these symptoms then…

Possible Cause: Your engine’s gasket seals or the gaskets themselves may be broken or damaged.

Possible Solution: Check your gaskets for signs of damage. Damaged gaskets always require replacing, so if I were you, I’d start looking around for replacement gaskets and seals. Make sure your gaskets and gasket seals meet your vehicle’s specifications and requirements. To find out which seals and gaskets will work best with your car, do consult your owner’s manual. (This little tip holds true for any replacement part you’re planning on installing in your ride.)

Possible Cause: You may have a malfunctioning or damaged PCV valve.

Possible Solution: Locate your PCV valve and look for signs of damage. Check to see if this component is really malfunctioning, and if it is, replace this part as soon as you can.

Possible Cause: Your engine’s valve seals may no longer be working as well as they should.

Possible Solution: Check your engine valve seals for signs of damage. Replace your valve seals if needed.

Possible Cause: You may be experiencing mechanical problems.

Possible Solution: Time to give your engine a check! Find out whether there’s something amiss about your engine compression. If there is, locate the problem part/s and do the necessary repairs and replacement/s.

If you experience vehicle stalling each time you step on your brakes hard or you make a quick stop… While driving, you don’t experience any engine problems. In fact, your vehicle is running quite well. That is until you decide to step on the brakes. Instead of slowing down to a full stop, or stopping completely, you feel your engine beginning to shake and then your vehicle suddenly stalls. This is indication that you may have…

Possible Cause: Problems with your computerized engine control system.

Possible Solution: This isn’t usually a DIY (do-it-yourself) job, so you may want to take your car to the shop for this one. If you’re confident that you can fix everything yourself, then all you have to do is use a scan tool or a DTC reader to check your engine control systems. After checking your engine control systems, test the circuits. Based on your findings, make the necessary repairs and replacements.

Possible Cause: You may have a really bad vacuum leak.

Possible Solution: Determine where the leak is coming from by checking your vacuum lines. Replace your vacuum lines if you need to.

Possible Cause: Your vehicle may have a broken linkage.

Possible Solution: Locate your linkage and repair it or replace it as required.

Note to Reader 10: The picture on the right side is of an engine valve.

*** Shown in the picture is a Toyota Alternator.

Note to Reader 7: I’m happy to say that we’re nearing the end of this particular topic. Feel free to ask me questions that you’d like to have addressed or posts that you want to see written.

And now, on with the rest of the show. Here are more tips on how to troubleshoot your engine properly.

If your engine has a tendency to idle almost-immediately after running… This situation shows a scenario wherein you have an engine that’s already “warm enough” but still has idle speeds that refuses to return to “normal”. In this situation, you really have to stomp on your brakes hard to prevent your car from surging or lurching forward. If this is a common scenario for you, then you might have:

Possible Cause: An overheating engine.

Possible Solution: Check your engine’s operating temperature, is it way above normal? Noticing light smoke coming from under your hood? Pull over immediately and let your engine cool a bit before popping your hood open. After another quarter of an hour or so, have a look at your engine cooling system. If you can make it home, do so. Otherwise wait until your engine cools or call a tow truck. You’re going to have to inspect your engine cooling system for signs of damage. Inspect your radiator, radiator hoses, thermostat, and fan belt. Repair or replace damaged component/s if there are any.

Possible Cause: Worn carburetor or dying power circuit or accelerator pump.

Possible Solution: Inspect your carburetor and its nearby components for signs of damage. Make the necessary reparations and replacements if needed. You may have to replace your actual carburetor or its accelerator pump.

Possible Cause: Low pressure coming from your fuel pressure regulator.

Possible Solution: While replacing a fuel pressure regulator should be generally left to professional mechanics, what you can do is inspect your regulator for signs of damage. You can do this by checking your fuel pressure using a great fuel pressure gauge.

Possible Cause: Malfunctioning alternator. The alternator is the part of your vehicle that keeps your car’s battery in tiptop shape. Aside from keeping your battery charged, this auto unit also provides power to your vehicle’s numerous electrical units and accessories.

Possible Solution: Replace your alternator if needed.

Possible Cause: Wrong idle speed.

Possible Solution: Make the necessary adjustments or replace your idle speed control unit if it is already damaged.

Possible Cause: Ignition timing failure.

Possible Solution: Correct your ignition timing for better ignition system performance.

Possible Cause: Your vehicle is in dire need of an ignition tune-up.

Possible Solution: Avail of a tune-up kit and replace your distributor rotor, cap , spark plugs and ignition wires.

Possible Cause: Vacuum leak.

Possible Solution: Locate the area where the leak is coming from and replace your ride’s vacuum lines.

Possible Cause: Problems with your vehicle’s computerized engine control system.

Possible Solution: Find a scan tool or DTC reader and determine where the problem part is located. Don’t forget to test your circuits as well. Repair or replace engine computer parts if needed. Remember, this job is not your typical DIY job, so you may want to take your car to the local garage to have part replacements done.

Note to Reader 8: While I encourage you guys to conduct auto repair, replacements and regular maintenance on your rides, if you think you’re in over your head over a particular project, then I highly suggest asking for a mechanic’s help in conducting repairs and part replacements. If you’re not sure about what you’re doing, then it’s best to ask for a little help from someone who repairs cars for a living. Consider it a mini-apprenticeship where you learn new things about replacing particular components. If you’re a good student, I’m pretty sure that in a year or two, you can accomplish all DIY repairs and installation processes yourself.

Note to Reader 6: This is just a side note, but I’m a bit worried about the current crisis being faced by huge automakers in the country. Although I’m not selling new cars, more like repairing old ones really, it still kinda smarts to see the Detroit Big Three (Ford, Chrysler, and General Motors) take a stumble. Here’s to hoping those companies get the aid that they need to continue creating good cars.

That being said, onto our usual route. Troubleshooting your engine part 6. Bear with me, there’s just two or three more scenarios which I hope can help you guys sort things out when it comes to your rides. By the way, since most of the causes presented in this post have already been discussed in the previous entries, I’ll try to keep this post as short and sweet as possible.

***The picture shows a Scan Tool or DTI (Diagnostic Trouble Code) Reader

If your engine stalls while idling or can’t idle smoothly after running for a while… Your car may run fine at high speeds, sure. But what happens when your vehicle starts to crawl? Here’s one quick way to test if your vehicle truly is exhibiting this symptom. After traveling for a quarter of an hour or so, release your step on the gas pedal to see how your engine’s gong to run. If it bucks or it stalls then…

Possible Cause: You may have a vacuum leak.

Possible Solution: Conduct a full check on your vacuum lines and try to determine if there’s leakage somewhere. If there is, locate the faulty vacuum line/s and replace if necessary.

Possible Cause: If your ride is still sporting a carburetor (in short, if you don’t have a fuel injection system), then it’s possible that you have a faulty power circuit or accelerator pump.

Possible Solution: Locate your accelerator pump and check for damage. If the damage is extensive, replace the entire carburetor. If the damage is contained, meaning it’s found in the pump itself, then simply replace your accelerator pump.

Possible Cause: Your idle speeds are set incorrectly.

Possible Solution: Set things right by adjusting your idle speed according to your vehicle’s specifications.

Possible Cause: You may have problems with your actual computerized engine control system.

Possible Solution: Locate a shop that has a DTI reader (diagnostic trouble code reader) or invest in a scan tool to find out where your engine problems are coming from. Also test your engine computer’s circuits. Repair and replace auto parts if needed. (Warning: this is usually a job best left to a professional mechanic—not just because of how difficult it is to actually replace your engine computer’s components but because this job usually requires expensive tools and/or equipment.)

Possible Cause: Dirty or damaged fuel injectors.

Possible Solution: Check your fuel system to determine if there is a decrease in fuel flow. If the problem is a dirty fuel injector, either replace or clean your injectors as soon as possible.

Possible Cause: EGR valve failure.

Possible Solution: Locate and replace your damaged EGR valve if necessary.

Possible Cause: Ignition troubles.

Possible Solution: An ignition tune-up. Replace dirty or damaged spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor.

Possible Cause: Engine mechanical woes.

Possible Solution: Determine if your engine compression is set to the right levels. This should give you an idea if any of your engine’s numerous components is malfunctioning. Replace or repair the damaged components.

Possible Cause: Too-low fuel pressure.

Possible Solution: Purchase a fuel pressure gauge and find out if you have problems with your fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. Replace your fuel pressure regulator if needed. (Again, this is usually a job that’s best left to the pros.)

Note to Reader 5: Apologies to you guys for not being able to update my blog too often. Been down with the flu and up with all the excitement of the elections and all… But what I do have for you is more tips on troubleshooting your engine for possible problems. Don’t worry, there’s just a few more posts regarding this topic. But if you do have any questions, please feel free to ask away.

**BTW: That’s a close-up of the EGR Valve.

If your engine stalls each time you try idling while the engine is still cold, or if the engine refuses to idle smoothly… When your engine is still a bit cold, usually immediately after starting your car in the morning, it naturally runs a bit rougher than usual. But if it tends to be overly rough or if you experience jolting and stalling then that’s indication of a bigger problem—even if your engine does run fine each time you drive at higher speeds.

Possible Cause: Ignition timing issues.

Possible Solution: Minor adjustments should do the trick!

Possible Cause: Problems with some of your ignition parts.

Possible Solution: Conduct a full ignition tune-up. Meaning, check your distributor rotor and cap (if you have them), spark plugs and ignition wires. If there is damage on any of these units, replace them as soon as possible. I usually keep a spare ignition tune-up kit with me, in case I forget to purchase a kit until my next tune-up. This way, I won’t have to wait for my kit to get delivered before I could go about my usual vehicle maintenance procedures.

Possible Cause: **If your car has a carburetor, then you may have a malfunctioning power circuit or a faulty accelerator pump.

Possible Solution: Check your accelerator pump and power circuit for signs of damage. Replace either your entire carburetor or just the accelerator pump depending on which part requires prompt replacing.

Possible Cause: Bad EGR Valve. The EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve basically controls and times your vehicle’s gas flow. EGR when used in a diesel engine, should reduce your engine’s peak operating temperatures ensuring better engine efficiency. A properly working EGR valve should also decrease the amount of fuel that is burned by your engine in the power stroke. When used in a spark-ignited engine, however, a great EGR valve should not only help in lowering your engine’s combustion temperatures but also in minimizing your car’s throttling losses.

Possible Solution: Because of the importance of your EGR valve, a bad valve must be replaced as soon as possible.

Possible Cause: Vacuum leakage.

Possible Solution: Check and replace your vacuum lines if you need to.

Possible Cause: Problems with your onboard computerized engine control system.

Possible Solution: Using a DTC reader or scan tool, locate problem spots and causes. Test your circuits and replace the engine parts that need replacing. Once again, since we’re dealing with an incredibly sensitive onboard engine computer, this is a job that’s beset left to the pros.

Possible Cause: Idle speed problems.

Possible Solution: Check your idle speeds if they have been set correctly. If the speed’s not right then adjust according to your specs.

Possible Cause: Worn or dirty fuel injectors.

Possible Solution: Avoid restricting fuel flow by replacing a faulty fuel injector immediately!

Possible Cause: Mechanical issues with some of your engine components.

Possible Solution: Find out if your engine is working well by checking its compression. If it’s not then try to locate the unit that’s not doing its job properly and make the necessary repairs or replacements based on how extensive the damage happens to be.

Note to Reader 4: Most of the time, we consider engine problems to be those that cause our rides to buck and stall. The thing is, sometimes engine problems can occur while you’re moving. It’s a bit more dangerous, especially if the engine trouble is severe, causing you to lose control over your vehicle. The moment you experience engine problems, do slow down until you get to your destination. If the problem is grave, pull over to avoid risking complete vehicle breakdown.

If while driving, your engine misfires or surges unexpectedly… These are examples of life’s not-so-great surprises. One moment your engine is completely fine—you start your car without glitches and accelerate well until a few miles later, maintaining a steady speed, your engine suddenly speeds up and bucks, jolting you almost out of your seat. If you experience this engine problem, it’s highly possible that you have…

Possible Cause: your engine is about to overheat. Now honestly, when was the last time you checked your radiator’s fluid levels? When was the last time you added coolant to your car? Failure to conduct tune ups usually lead to overheating. If you’ve recently added water and coolant mixture into your engine cooling system, but you still experience this problem, your best recourse is to check your cooling system for malfunctioning auto parts. The culprit could be a loose fan belt, a busted radiator, cracked radiator hoses, or a stuck thermostat.

Possible Solution: After identifying the “problematic part”, either repair or replace the component. I suggest replacing the component completely though. Especially if the part that’s in question is more than just a few years old.

Possible Cause: If you’re sporting an older ride, then your carburetor’s choke might not be working as well as it should be or it may not be positioned correctly. Remember, older vehicle models tend to foul up faster than newer models. Which is why it pays to conduct regular auto maintenance, increasing the frequency of your tune-ups as your car ages.

Possible Solution: Check your choke plate. Is it positioned correctly? Is it still working as it should? Does it open completely? If not, then you either replace it or repair it. If the damage is quite severe, I suggest you put down your repair tools and start looking around for a replacement choke plate to avoid a repeat of this nasty episode.

Possible Cause: Malfunctioning ignition timing.

Possible Solution: The good news is that most of the time, you won’t really have to make any replacements when it comes to wacky ignition timing. All you have to do is make all the right adjustments, and you’ve got great ignition timing—hopefully for years!

Possible Cause: Too-Low fuel pressure. This problem could be caused by either a malfunctioning fuel pump or a bad fuel pressure regulator. Check your fuel pump and fuel pump regulator using a fuel pump gauge. Note where the fuel pressure is dipping.

Possible Solution: If the culprit is a poor fuel pressure regulator, then I suggest looking around for a replacement part and taking your car to your local mechanic for installation. If you’re a skilled mechanic, then you should be able to install a new fuel pressure regulator easily. But if you’re just starting out, it’s always best to have the professionals take care of this job. Believe me, the fuel pressure regulator is not an easy part to install.

Possible Cause: Problems with your engine computer or computerized engine control system. Remember my post on DTC (diagnostic trouble code)? You’ll need a DTC reader to interpret the codes coming from your engine computer. Look for a scan tool if you don’t have one already and plug it into your engine computer. If you don’t have one, there are some garages who would let you use their scan tools for a small price—some might even let you use a DTC reader for free, so long as you promise to come back to them for tune ups and repairs. Point is, get a reading. Don’t forget to test the circuits too!

Possible Solution: If there’s a part that needs repairing, leave it to the professionals. Unless of course, you’re confident that you can conduct all these repairs at home—you’ll need relatively expensive replacement equipment and tools for this though.

Possible Cause: I’d hate to sound rather vague, but this could be indication of an ignition problem. Because your ignition system has numerous parts, list down the parts of your ignition—starter, starter solenoid, ignition coil, distributor cap, distributor rotor, spark plug wires, and spark plugs. Now, check each of these components starting with the spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor cap, and rotor.

Possible Solution: When you spot grave damage, replace, replace, replace! Otherwise, if it’s just a matter of grime buildup or dirty plugs, simply clean these components. If your wires are tangled, prevent arcing and damage caused by friction by using a spark plug wire loom or divider on your car. It basically organizes your wires and offer better insulation. In short, it keeps your wires organized, making it easier to access your spark plug wires for inspection and/or installation.

Possible Cause: Troublesome Torque Converter. Skip this part if you’re driving a manual, since this component is only present in automatic transmission vehicles. Inspect your torque converter and try to determine if it locks during pivotal moments. (Pun not intended). A slipping torque converter could also mean trouble, so make sure your current converter is properly installed and in place.

Possible Solution: If your torque converter is damaged, replace it as soon as possible. Again, this might not be a do-it-yourself (DIY) job. You can still purchase this component at a great price online, but I suggest you let your local mechanic do the installing for you.

Possible Cause: Almost completely-clogged fuel filter. As I mentioned in my previous entry, when your fuel filter becomes partially clogged, less fuel escapes into your engine system, making your engine run roughly and in some instances, not run at all.

Possible Solution: Increase fuel flow by purchasing a new fuel filter and installing this component into your fuel system as soon as possible.

Possible Cause: Clogged injectors. If reduced fuel supply is taking its toll on your engine, it pays to inspect your fuel system as soon as you can. Do check your fuel injectors for signs of clogging. When dirt builds up on your fuel injector’s nozzle, it naturally restricts the amount of fuel that makes its way to your engine.

Possible Solution: If dirt is your only problem, it’s nothing that a good cleaning can’t fix. If, however, the clogging has caused damage on your fuel injector’s nozzle, then there’s no way around it—you’ll need to replace this component.

Possible Cause: You’ve got a nasty vacuum leak. Naturally the leak occurs somewhere along your vacuum lines. Inspect your vacuum lines to determine where the leak is coming from.

Possible Solution: Replace the faulty vacuum line to put a stop to leaks.

Possible Cause: Perpetually-open EGR Valve. Your EGR Valve can stick open too! Inspect this component to see if it opens and closes properly.

Possible Solution: If the damage is extensive, replace this valve immediately.

Possible Cause: Internal Engine Trouble. When you’ve got engine trouble, start checking the actual component for sings of problems first before replacing random ignition or transmission parts. Inspect compression to find out your engine’s condition.

Possible Solution: Determine where the problem is stemming from and repair or replace the damaged component/subcomponent accordingly.

Possible Cause: Loose or broken drive axles. There’s only one way to find out if your drive axles are the ones causing your engine to run awry. Check! Look at your CV joints for sings of damage.

Possible Solution: Replace and repair your universal joints or CV joints if necessary.