Automotive Repair Questions

2019-12-10T10:53:00.001-05:00

Chattering Pathfinder

Transmissions are precision machinery that do not like contamination in their fluid. Even a small amount of contamination will cause issues. SureTrack community member Nhaugen had a 2005 Nissan Pathfinder in the shop where the transmission would chatter at highway speeds. They posed the question to the community, and with the help of fellow community member trannyman1 and others, they were able to resolve the issue quickly.

Auto Repair Manuals

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Vehicle
2005 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4.0L

Title
Vehicle chatter at 80km/h on highway, replaced transmission and cooler.

Complaint
Vehicle feels like it goes over rumble strips at around 80km/hr at steady throttle.

Diagnostic Steps Performed/Parts Replaced
Transmission fluid was changed recently and customer had a loud electrical whine from TCM. Checked fluid level and it is good, I suspect transmission issue. Just wondering if anyone can point me in a direction as to any PIDs a guy can monitor to find maybe torque converter clutch slippage or internal transmission slippage, I will also manually check line pressure. just trying to find the least intrusive way to diagnose this thing.

Best Answer from Community Member trannyman1
Most of these I see have had the transmission cooler inside the radiator rupture and ruin the transmission. Even if you flush them, you normally can’t get them to quit shuddering. Check the fluid really good with either test strips for glycol contamination or the quick and dirty way. Get a metal spoon and put some fluid in it. get a lighter and heat it up. If it has much glycol, it will boil before the fluid will get hot enough to ignite. Regardless, most of these I get with a shudder have had glycol contamination. On a side note, if the radiator has ruptured, I’d recommend a remanufactured transmission because it normally ruins the TCM as well as the rubber seals.

Cause
Transmission fluid contaminated with coolant.

Correction
Installed remanufactured transmission and new transmission cooler. Problem solved.

Source
This is a Real Fix from Mitchell 1′s new SureTrack^®
expert information source. These documented issues from actual shop repair orders demonstrate how SureTrack can help you correct issues that are not easily diagnosed using OEM information alone. SureTrack is currently available free in our ProDemand product.

Code U1900 Replace ABS Traction Control Module - SOLVED

2018-01-09T10:10:00.001-05:00

Get on the Bus

CAN Communication Bus Fault? Now that’s generic. The Bus is the communications network used by many vehicles to make all the modules work together. When you have a bus fault code, you have to find out what part of the system is causing the issue. Follow this Real Fix to see how this was done on this 2006 Ford F350 Super Duty.

Auto Repair Manuals

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Vehicle
2006 Ford Cab & Chassis F350 Super Duty 5.4

Title
Check Engine Light Is On, U1900, Replaced Anti-Lock Brake Traction Control Module

Complaint
The customer states the check engine light is on.

Cause
Connected a scan tool and found code U1900 CAN Communication Bus Fault. There was no communication available with the anti-lock brake traction control module. Performed a visual inspection of the anti-lock brake system, wiring harnesses, speed sensors and detected no obvious faults. Performed a visual inspection of the anti-lock brake traction control module and found no obvious faults. Disconnected the anti-lock brake traction control module connectors, visually inspected the connectors and terminals and found no obvious signs of loose pins, corrosion or damage. Visually inspected the anti-lock brake traction control module wiring harness and found no obvious signs of damage. Used a multi-meter to check for the presence of shorts or opens in the anti-lock brake traction control module wire circuits and found that none were present. Used the multi-meter to check for the presence of power and ground at the anti-lock brake traction control module harness connector and found that both were present. The result of these tests verified the anti-lock brake traction control module was faulty.

Correction
Replaced the anti-lock brake traction control module, cleared codes, performed a road test and verified the vehicle operated properly. The check engine light did not illuminate and no fault codes returned.

Source
This is a Real Fix from Mitchell 1′s new SureTrack^®
expert information source. These documented issues from actual shop repair orders demonstrate how SureTrack can help you correct issues that are not easily diagnosed using OEM information alone. SureTrack is currently available free in our ProDemand product.

Ford Explorer erratic shifting Code P1717

2017-10-30T11:00:00.001-04:00

Go With The Pack

An erratically shifting transmission can be caused by many things. Follow this Real Fix to see how to diagnose code P1717 on this Ford Explorer and fix the erratic shifts.

Auto Repair Manuals

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Vehicle
2004 Ford Explorer 4.0L

Title
Check Engine Light Is On, P1717, Replaced Automatic Transmission Solenoid Pack

Complaint
The customer states the check engine light is on.

Cause
Connected a scan tool and found code P1717 – SSD Inductive Signature Malfunction. Used the scan tool to monitor the live data, test drove the vehicle and found the transmission shifts were erratic. Visually inspected the transmission wiring harness and connectors and found no visible faults. The fluid was clean and at the proper level. Disconnected the automatic transmission shift solenoid wiring harness connector, inspected the terminals, and found no faults present. Used a multi-meter to check for the presence of a short in the automatic transmission shift solenoid circuits, and found no shorts were present. Used the multi-meter to check for the presence of battery power at the automatic transmission shift solenoid wiring harness connector and found battery power was present. Used the multi-meter to check the continuity of the automatic transmission shift solenoids and found automatic transmission shift solenoid “D” was intermittently electrically open when the solenoid was tapped on to simulate road shock. The tests indicated the automatic transmission shift solenoid was faulty. The automatic transmission shift solenoid “D” is integrated into the automatic transmission solenoid pack and is replaced as an entire unit.

Correction
Replaced the fuel pump resistor and verified the vehicle operated properly. The customer’s concern did not return.

Source
This is a Real Fix from Mitchell 1′s new SureTrack^®
expert information source. These documented issues from actual shop repair orders demonstrate how SureTrack can help you correct issues that are not easily diagnosed using OEM information alone. SureTrack is currently available free in our ProDemand product.

Replace Fuel Pump Resistor for Engine No Start

2017-10-09T09:05:00.001-04:00

Too Much Resistance

Sometimes a minor part can cause you trouble but it’s fairly simple to track it down for the fix. Follow this Real Fix to see how a bad fuel pump resistor was causing a no start condition on this 2001 Buick Regal.

Auto Repair Manuals

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Vehicle
2001 Buick Regal GS 3.8L

Title
Engine Does Not Start, Replaced Fuel Pump Resistor

Complaint
The customer states the engine will not start.

Cause
Confirmed the customer’s complaint and found the engine did not start. Connected a spark tester to a spark plug wire, cranked the engine and found spark was present. Connected the spark tester to the remaining spark plug wires, cranked the engine and found spark was present. Connected a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel pressure test port, cranked the engine and found there was no measured fuel pressure. Visually inspected the fuel pump wiring harness and found no obvious signs of damage. Disconnected the fuel pump connector, visually inspected the connector and terminals and found no obvious signs of damage. Used a multi-meter to check for the presence of voltage and ground at the fuel pump, cranked the engine and found voltage was not present. Observed the fuel pump relay while commanding the fuel pump on with a scan tool, and found the relay made an audible click. Used the scan tool to command the fuel pump relay on while using the multi-meter to check for the presence of voltage at the output circuit of relay, and found voltage was present. Used the multi-meter to measure the resistance of the fuel pump resistor and found the measured resistance was above specifications. These test results verified the fuel pump resistor was faulty.

Engine Code P1726 Ford F250

2017-05-03T15:50:00.001-04:00

Fouled!

The EGR system can cause several issues when something is wrong with it. Follow this Real Fix to see how a fouled EGR valve caused a code P1726 on this 2004 Ford F250 Super Duty with the 6.0L engine.

Auto Repair Manuals

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Vehicle
2004 Ford Pickup F250 Super Duty 6.0

Title
Check Engine Light Is On, P1726, Replaced Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve

Complaint
The customer states the check engine light is on.

Cause
Connected a scan tool and found code P1726 – Insufficient Engine Speed Decrease During Self Test. With the engine at idle, monitored scan tool data and observed the exhaust gas recirculation valve parameter was erratic. Using the scan tool, commanded the exhaust gas recirculation valve to open and close and found the valve did not respond. Performed an inspection of the exhaust gas recirculation valve wiring harness and connector and detected no obvious faults. With the ignition on and the engine off, used a multi-meter to check for the presence of voltage and ground at the exhaust gas recirculation valve connector and found both were present. Removed the exhaust gas recirculation valve, visually inspected the valve and found that it was carbon fouled . The tests indicated the exhaust gas recirculation valve was faulty.

Correction
Replaced the exhaust gas recirculation valve, cleared codes, performed a road test and verified the vehicle operated properly. The check engine light did not illuminate and no fault codes returned.

Source
This is a Real Fix from Mitchell 1′s new SureTrack^®
expert information source. These documented issues from actual shop repair orders demonstrate how SureTrack can help you correct issues that are not easily diagnosed using OEM information alone. SureTrack is currently available free in our ProDemand product.

Serpentine Belt making a squeaking noise

2017-01-30T11:21:00.003-05:00

Squeaking Isn't Always a Belt

Usually when you hear a squeak from an engine you assume it’s the belts. drdiesel had a Chevrolet Avalanche in their shop that had a squeaking noise coming from the engine when it was running… but it wasn’t the belts. They posed the question to the community, and with the help of fellow community member dmckemie12 and others, they were able to resolve the issue.

Auto Repair Manuals

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Vehicle
2003 Chevrolet Avalanche 1500 5.3

Title
Squeak From Engine, Replaced Rocker Arm

Complaint
Squeak or rubbing noise from right side cylinder head valve train area, only with engine at operating temperature..

Cause
Bad roller bearing in rocker arm.

Detection
You can pull the valve cover then plug the coils back in and run the engine, use a hammer handle and push hard on the push rod side of rocker and listen for noise change. You can also back the rocker bolt out a turn or two and SLOWLY tighten back down, noise will get louder when tightening if the roller on lifter and/or cam is bad. I’ve got a pickup load of bad cams from these same symptoms.

Correction
Replaced rocker arm, ran engine and squeaking noise is gone.

Source
This is a Real Fix from Mitchell 1′s new SureTrack^®
expert information source. These documented issues from actual shop repair orders demonstrate how SureTrack can help you correct issues that are not easily diagnosed using OEM information alone. SureTrack is currently available free in our ProDemand product.

Why is my engine idle so rough?

2016-12-07T14:30:00.001-05:00

Why So Rough?

It might be over 20 years old but that doesn’t mean you don’t want it to run smoothly. In this case the component related to the code was not the culprit. Follow along with this Real Fix to see what the cause was.

Auto Repair Manuals

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Vehicle
1995 Mazda B2300 2.3

Title
P1443, Engine Idles Rough, Replaced Idle Air Control Valve

Complaint
The customer states the engine idles rough. The customer also states the check engine light is on.

Cause
Confirmed the customer’s complaint and found the engine idled rough. Connected a scan tool and found code P1443 – Purge Flow System Circuit Malfunction. At idle, used the scan tool to monitor live data and found the evaporative emission (EVAP) purge flow sensor signal parameter was within the specified range of 1.5 to 2.0 volts. At idle, used the scan tool to command the purge solenoid open and observed the EVAP purge flow sensor signal parameter responded to changes in commanded purge rate and engine speed. Observed the idle speed was below the specified 475 to 575 rpm. Used the scan tool to command the idle air control valve on and found engine RPM did not change, indicating the idle air control valve was inoperative. Inspected the idle air control valve wiring harness and found no faults. Connected a test light in place of the IAC valve, used the scan tool to command the IAC valve on and found the test light was illuminated, indicating the wiring and control circuit were functional. Used a set of fused jumper wires and applied power and ground to the idle air control valve, and found the idle air control valve failed to operate. Used a multi-meter to measure the resistance of the idle air control valve and found the measured resistance was out of the specified range of 6 to 13 Ohms. The results of these tests indicated the idle air control valve was faulty.

Correction
Replaced the idle air control valve, cleared codes, performed a road test and verified the vehicle operated properly. The check engine light did not illuminate and no fault codes returned.

Source
This is a Real Fix from Mitchell 1′s new SureTrack^®
expert information source. These documented issues from actual shop repair orders demonstrate how SureTrack can help you correct issues that are not easily diagnosed using OEM information alone. SureTrack is currently available free in our ProDemand product.

Where is the Relay?

2016-10-31T10:07:00.002-04:00

Relay or No Relay?

Not all vehicles stay as built by the factory. SureTrack community member thewrench had a diesel Dodge Pickup in their shop where the fuel system didn’t match the factory information because it had been retrofitted. They posed the question to the community, and with the help of fellow community member DieseltechJon and others, they were able to resolve the issue.

Auto Repair Manuals

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Vehicle
2004 Dodge Pickup R3500 5.9L Diesel

Title
No Power to the Fuel Pump, Replaced Relay

Complaint
Truck will not start and repair information states that truck is equipped with a fuel lift pump attached to the fuel filter/water separator housing but this truck does not. Found references to retrofits on some of these trucks where an in-tank lift pump is used which apparently this truck has.

Diagnostic Steps Performed/Parts Replaced
We have no power to the fuel pump wire at the tank, and have not been able to find a fuel pump relay although retrofit repair information shows that there is a fuel pump relay, but does not specify location. C1 Pin 19 at the ECM shows to be Fuel Pump Relay Control and C1 Pin 6 shows to be Fuel Pump Relay Return. Underhood power control center does not show any of the relays to be a ‘Fuel Pump Relay’.

Best Answer from Community
If this truck had the retrofitting done check the driver side firewall area for the relay. Usually somewhere between the battery and firewall.

Cause
Faulty retrofit fuel pump relay.

Correction
Replaced fuel pump relay and truck now starts.

Source
This is a Real Fix from Mitchell 1′s new SureTrack^®
expert information source. These documented issues from actual shop repair orders demonstrate how SureTrack can help you correct issues that are not easily diagnosed using OEM information alone. SureTrack is currently available free in our ProDemand product.

Clicking Killed the Battery 2007 Chevy Impala

2016-10-20T10:49:00.001-04:00

Clicking Killed the Battery

Finding what is draining the battery can be tricky, but sometimes your ears will help you find the culprit. SureTrack community member kenscssvc had a Chevrolet Impala in their shop because the owner complained that the battery kept going dead. The charging system checked out, but while working on the vehicle they heard some clicking sounds under the dash. They posed the question to the community, and with the help of fellow community members dmckemie12 and ironnutz, they were able to resolve the issue.

Auto Repair Manuals

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Vehicle
2007 Chevrolet Impala LT 3.5L

Title
Battery Going Dead, Replaced A/C Control Module and Actuators

Complaint
Customer states that battery goes dead while vehicle is sitting

Diagnostic Steps Performed/Parts Replaced
Performed Charging system test and all is normal. Shortly after the test, while looking for loose wiring, a clicking noise was found and appeared to be moving throughout the dash in a cycle. The temperature control doors were clicking, attempting to move but were in fact stuck to one extreme. Scanned the HVAC system and retrieved 3 codes.
• B0223 Recirculate Position Command Circuit Actuator Stuck
• B0408 Left Air Mix Control Circuit Malfunction Actuator Stuck
• B0418 Temperature Control 2 Circuit Actuator stuck

Best Answer from Community
Try commanding the motors with scan tool to see if they operate. When they reach the end of their travel, the module sees the increase in amperage and turns them off. With the plastic worm gear worn off there is not enough load to raise the amperage so they continue to run. You can replace just the one that is ticking then reevaluate; not abnormal for them to set a code and still work fine.

Cause
Cannot command the motors – replaced 2 of the motors and still cannot command them. Internal failure of the controller causing motors to run with key removed draining battery.

Correction
Replaced HVAC control module and three bad mode door actuators. No more clicking noise and battery not draining with key off.

Source
This is a Real Fix from Mitchell 1′s new SureTrack^®
expert information source. These documented issues from actual shop repair orders demonstrate how SureTrack can help you correct issues that are not easily diagnosed using OEM information alone. SureTrack is currently available free in our ProDemand product.

Cruise Doesn’t Work? Check the Bulbs

2016-10-03T13:32:00.001-04:00

The Bulbs for Cruise Control?

SureTrack community member aph915 had a truck in their shop where the cruise control was inoperative and the cruise indicator light in the dash didn’t illuminate as expected. They posed the question to the community, and with the help of fellow community member ericsautomotive and others, they were able to resolve the issue.

The following Real Fix summarizes the interaction between them in the community that led to the solution.

Auto Repair Manuals

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Vehicle
2002 GMC Yukon XL K1500 5.3

Title
Cruise Control Inoperative, Replaced Bulbs

Complaint
Customer complained that the cruise control was inoperative. Further investigation determined that the cruise indicator light was not illuminating as expected.

Diagnostic Steps Performed/Parts Replaced
Checked for DTCs and found none. PCM shows cruise control inhibited-yes. Have checked switch functions at cruise control module and all work and powers and grounds are good. Performed service manual test for cruise control inoperative and came to replacing PCM. Replaced PCM and cruise is still inoperative. Speedometer working correctly. All brake lights working. Cannot determine cause of cruise control inhibit.

Best Answer from Community
Backprobe power and ground supplies to the cruise control servo. Are they all present and the right voltage levels?.

Member Name: ericsautomotive

Cause
Found that the almost 5 volt signal at the cruise control servo was caused by customer installed LED brake light bulbs.

Correction
Replaced brake light bulbs with conventional bulbs and the 5 volts went away and the cruise control started working

Source
This is a Real Fix from Mitchell 1′s new SureTrack^®
expert information source. These documented issues from actual shop repair orders demonstrate how SureTrack can help you correct issues that are not easily diagnosed using OEM information alone. SureTrack is currently available free in our ProDemand product.

Start and Stall 2003 Chevy Tahoe

2016-09-26T11:24:00.001-04:00

Staying Grounded

Sometimes it’s a simple problem causing your problems. SureTrack community member chuys123 had a Chevrolet Tahoe in their shop that wouldn’t start. Everything seems to check out ok but still couldn’t figure it out. They posed the question to the community, and with the help of fellow community member runtherack and others, they were able to resolve the issue.

The following Real Fix summarizes the interaction between them in the community that led to the solution.

Auto Repair Manuals

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Vehicle
2003 Chevrolet Tahoe 4.8

Title
Start and stall, Fixed PCM grounding

Complaint
Customer states that vehicle will start and run for like a minute or two then stall. Might restart and run for a minute or two again and eventually will not restart at all. Customer said they were driving and instrument cluster needles went crazy and vehicle died.

Diagnostic Steps Performed/Parts Replaced
Checked fuel pressure and it is 55psi, has spark and injector pulse. The only odd thing I see is the injector pulse and spark seem amplified. The NOID light blinks very bright and the spark looks very strong, again like if it’s amplified. I have also attempted to spray starting fluid to no avail, replaced TAC module and throttle body, still the same issue. Scanner has no codes, the only weird thing is in the abs, I am able to read codes but get No Communication error for data. I disconnected ABS module and no difference. Scanner shows theft system not active.

Best Answer from Community
Check the ground cable routed from the lower right hand corner of the engine (G104) to the frame (G105). Verify the cable is tight at both ends and the cable is in good condition.

Member Name: runtherack

Cause
Found a loose PCM ground.

Correction
Repaired loos PCM ground and vehicle starts and runs as it should.

Source
This is a Real Fix from Mitchell 1′s new SureTrack^®
expert information source. These documented issues from actual shop repair orders demonstrate how SureTrack can help you correct issues that are not easily diagnosed using OEM information alone. SureTrack is currently available free in our ProDemand product.

2005 Chevy Express Wiring Harness Fix

2016-09-14T08:04:00.004-04:00

Rubbed the Wrong Way

No way! Can a powertrain control module wiring harness rub through an upper control arm? It has happened and we have the Real Fix to prove it. Don’t spend all day tracing wires and utilize this Real Fix to find the exact location of the damaged wiring harness.

Auto Repair Manuals

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Vehicle
2005 Chevrolet Chevy Express G3500, 4.8L

Title
Engine Runs Rough, Repaired Powertrain Control Module Wiring Harness

Complaint
The customer states the engine runs rough.

Cause
Confirmed the customer’s complaint and found the engine ran rough. Used a scan tool to monitor live data, performed a road test and found some of the powertrain control module parameters dropped out intermittently. Disconnected the powertrain control module connectors, visually inspected the connectors and terminals and found no obvious signs of damage. Visually inspected the powertrain control module wiring harness and found the harness was rubbed through at the left front suspension upper control arm.

Correction
Repaired the powertrain control module wiring harness and verified the vehicle operated properly. The customer’s concern did not return.

Source
This is a Real Fix from Mitchell 1′s new SureTrack^®
expert information source. These documented issues from actual shop repair orders demonstrate how SureTrack can help you correct issues that are not easily diagnosed using OEM information alone. SureTrack is currently available free in our ProDemand product.

2001 dodge ram 1500 5.2 alternator not working

2016-08-31T06:09:00.001-04:00

I'm working on a friends truck that the battery keeps dying. He got another alt from the salvage yard and its doing the same thing as the original. The gauge in the dash will read about 13 volts while idling but if you take it for a drive the check gauges light will come on and the charging gauge will drop as far as it can. it has power to the main feed from the battery to the alt but not to the two smaller wires plugged into the back of the alt. any ideas?

RESPONSE

If this is one of the type of alternators that has the integral
regulator built-in, there should be a place where you can insert a
Phillips screwdriver or small metal rod to ground a tab on the
regulator to force the alternator to put out full current. If it has
that and it doesn't put out full current at a higher than normal
voltage (should be over 14 volts, could be close to 15 volts), then
the alternator is at fault. If it does put out that voltage and higher
current then perhaps the regulator is faulty if the voltage doesn't
stay around 13.5 volts when the alternator is running without using
this trick to test the alternator.

You can get a decent current tester like this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-SEARS-Starter-Generator-ALT-Indicater-Current-Amp-Tester-NEW-9442145-/182255638946

to check current. It clips over the battery cable. If you reverse the
connection it will reverse the direction on the meter, so make sure
you're reading current output from the alternator. The smaller channel
on the rear of the tester is for lower amperage readings. The larger
one is for starting current.

Is the battery in good condition? Does it hold a charge?

Where is the Freon going?

2016-08-08T08:52:00.001-04:00

Below is a Real Fix from Mitchell 1′s new SureTrack^®
expert information source. These documented issues from actual shop repair orders demonstrate how SureTrack can help you correct issues that are not easily diagnosed using OEM information alone. SureTrack is currently available free in our ProDemand product.

Where’s the Freon Going?

It’s hot outside! Where’s the refrigerant going? SureTrack community member Lutters had a Prius in their shop that repeatedly lost its Air Conditioning System Freon. They posed the question to the community, and with the help of fellow community member ericsautomotive and others, they were able to resolve the issue.

The following Real Fix summarizes the interaction between them in the community that led to the solution.

Auto Repair Manuals

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Vehicle
2010 Toyota Prius BASE 1.8

Title
Repeat A/C Refrigerant Loss, Replaced Evaporator

Complaint
Car came in 1 month ago for poor air conditioning cooling. Found refrigerant level .8# low. No obvious leaks.

Diagnostic Steps Performed/Parts Replaced
Recharged and added dye. Came in today, less than 1 month later for poor cooling, system down .3#. Very hard to see condenser but no dye seen and no sniffer results. Took blower motor out and used sniffer and camera with black light and found no leaks. All A/C lines and compressor are good.

Best Answer from Community
No dye on the outside = No high side leaks….. It’s got to be on the inside!!! There are TSBs on odor and other Evap issues. Did you try sniffing the drain while system is on low speed?

Member Name: ericsautomotive

Cause
After rechecking a week later, we found traces of dye on the frame section directly below the evaporator drain tube. The only way to see this was with a mirror and black light.

Correction
Replaced A/C evaporator and has been good since.

Hydraulic radiator fan Lincoln LS

2016-07-11T12:08:00.001-04:00

Hydraulics, Cool?

The cooling fan on this Lincoln LS is common because it’s hydraulically powered. Since this fan is hydraulic, oil pressure dictates the speed of the fan. When the solenoid controlling the flow of pressure fails, the fan no longer operates properly and the vehicle is prone to overheating. Don’t let the P1299 trouble code get you heated and use this Real Fix to solve the overheating fault.

Auto Repair Manuals

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Vehicle
2001, Lincoln LS, 3.0L

Title
P1299, Replaced Hydraulic Fan Solenoid

Complaint
The customer states the check engine light is on.

Cause
Connected a scan tool and found code P1299 – Cylinder Head Over Temperature Protect. Inspected the engine coolant level and condition and found no faults. Started the vehicle, allowed the engine to idle and noticed the vehicle began to overheat after 20 minutes. Also, observed the hydraulic fan did not engage. Used a multi-meter to check for power and ground at the hydraulic fan solenoid and found both were present. Inspected the hydraulic fan solenoid wiring harness and found no faults. This indicated the hydraulic fan solenoid was faulty.

Correction
Replaced the hydraulic fan solenoid, cleared codes, performed a road test and verified the vehicle operated properly. The check engine light did not illuminate and no fault codes returned.

Replacing A/C compressor, rec/drier, etc.on 1998 Chevy S-10

2016-06-21T12:29:00.000-04:00

I replaced an Air Conditioning compressor on my 1998 S-10 4-cyl (2.2L engine)
pick up 3 to 5 years ago. The system is once again not working, though
the electric A/C compressor clutch kicks in OK. Pressure is nearly the
same between the high and low sides, which I believe whas what
happened before I replaced the compressor the last time.

I had replaced it with a Chinese made copycat compressor and a
receiver drier, and possibly an orifice tube (not sure about the last
item). I hooked everything up loosely and let a backyard (but
licensed) A/C mechanic finish the job with the proper O-rings, oil,
refrigerant, etc., and the job included a flush of the condenser and
evaporator coils and the connecting plumbing.

I do not know if the flush was thorough enough but I did watch him
flush the system. I plan to purchase the canister to put the flushing
fluid into to flush my system before putting the new compressor and
receiver-drier on and doing a vacuum on the system then charging it.

I would like to do the replacement myself this time. I have the gauge
set and a vacuum pump and have used it since the last time I got the
replacement done on other vehicles, including evacuating and
recharging an A/C system on a 97 Mazda Protege. I can follow
directions well enough as I've rebuilt a Honda Accord engine by
following the instructions in a repair manual and asking a few
questions of friends who have experience with this sort of thing.

First, I've found a complete parts set of a compressor and receiver
drier on Rock Auto dot com for a reasonable price. I can add less than
$100 more and get a condenser coil, but I am not sure I need it (see
next paragraph).

I have read where some of the very newest vehicles use such tiny tubes
in the condenser coils that they are near impossible to flush.
However, I don't know if they were that small in '98 or not, so I need
some input here as to whether I can just flush the original condenser
and re-use it or not???

Also, when I flush the various sections of the system, I would
appreciate knowing which hose/port and direction to flush the fluid
through, or does it matter which direction I force the fluid through
the system when it's opened up???

I don't plan to be stingy with the fluid even though it's not cheap.
If I use a whole gallon on the system that's fine with me if I need
to. But if I only need to buy a fraction of that then I can save some
money there, too. So how much of this flush fluid will I need to buy?

Does it store well when unused for a long time if tightly sealed?

I will also need to know what sort of torque to apply to the bolts on
the fittings at the compressor and anywhere else I need to be careful
about torque. I might not be able to torque the hose fittings as I
only have a wrench which will fit sockets but I am open to any
suggestions or help. This is my first A/C compressor replacement job
so I want to approach it cautiously and get whatever advice that might
be helpful. The previous replacement I didn't really do any of the
technical work, though I"ve learned about the evacuation and recharge
process and have done that successfully on the Mazda.

Any help with this would be appreciated. I've posted this to the two
groups which have helped me the most in my various automotive repairs.
Both groups have helped me in the past with my S-10, and I thank you
all for that.

I will wait a few days for replies to come in before I order anything.
If I need to buy a condenser coil also (and I'd rather not so I can
avoid the extra work of removing and replacing it in this hot summer
weather), I can get it cheaper in a set from Rock Auto.

If any of you use Rock Auto and know how to find generic items like
the flush fluid instead of me buying it through ebay (or if you have a
better source), please share that, too. I can find model-specific
parts very easily but when it comes to the generic stuff I find it
hard to find there, but I would think they would have those items too.
Thanks in advance.

Chevy Tahoe Tachometer does not work

2016-06-18T11:02:00.001-04:00

Super Ignition Switch

What is the solution when the key in your customer’s vehicle turns way too easily? Either you gained super strength overnight or the ignition switch housing is damaged. The second option is probably your best bet. You don’t need super powers to solve this issue, just this Real Fix and a little time.

Auto Repair Manuals

Get everything you need to diagnose and repair your car problems today. Online access to the same auto repair information the dealership uses.

Vehicle: 2003, Chevrolet Tahoe, 5.3L

Title: Tachometer Inoperative, Repaired Engine Wiring Harness

Complaint: The customer states the vehicle’s tachometer does not respond to the change in engine speed.

Cause

Performed a road test to duplicate the customer’s concern and found the vehicle’s tachometer did not respond to the change in engine speed. Performed a road test while monitoring live data on the scan tool and observed the tachometer readings differed from the engine speed data parameter readings. Connected a lab scope to the RPM OUT terminal at powertrain control module connector 2, measured the voltage signal, and observed the signal did not change when the engine speed varied. Disassembled the engine wiring harness, traced the RPM OUT circuit and discovered the RPM OUT wire had stretched in the engine wiring harness, which caused the open circuit.

Correction

Repaired the engine wiring harness, cleared codes, performed a road test and verified the vehicle operated properly.

Honda Code p1361 and Code p1366

2016-06-06T10:30:00.002-04:00

P1361 – TDC Sensor 1 Circuit Intermittent Interruption and P1366 – TDC Sensor 2 Circuit Intermittent Interruption

Windshield washer fluid is for the windshield, not the top dead center sensor. Even a component as simple as a windshield washer hose can cause big trouble. Follow along with this unique Real Fix and wash away the trouble codes.

Auto Repair Manuals

Get everything you need to diagnose and repair your car problems today. Online access to the same auto repair information the dealership uses.

Vehicle2000, Honda Odyssey EX, 3.5L

TitleP1361, P1366, Cleaned Top Dead Center Sensor Harness Connectors, Replaced Windshield Washer Hose

ComplaintThe customer states the check engine light is on.

Cause
Connected a scan tool and found codes: P1361 – TDC Sensor 1 Circuit Intermittent Interruption and P1366 – TDC Sensor 2 Circuit Intermittent Interruption. Performed a visual inspection of the engine compartment and found traces of washer fluid on both of the top dead center sensor harness connectors. Traced the washer fluid leak and found a broken windshield washer hose. Upon further inspection, found the damaged windshield washer hose leaked washer fluid onto the top dead center sensor harness connectors.

Correction
Replaced the windshield washer hose and cleaned the top dead center sensor harness connectors, cleared the codes, performed a road test and verified the vehicle operated properly. The check engine light did not illuminate and no fault codes returned.

engine does not crank Jeep Grand Cherokee

2016-05-15T21:44:00.000-04:00

Super Ignition Switch

Auto Repair Manuals

Get everything you need to diagnose and repair your car problems today. Online access to the same auto repair information the dealership uses.

Vehicle2003, Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L

TitleEngine Does Not Crank, Replaced Ignition Switch Housing

ComplaintThe customer states the engine does not crank.

Cause
Confirmed the customer’s complaint and found the engine did not crank. Noticed the ignition switch did not have resistance when turning the key nor did the switch have spring back when the key was turned to the start position. Used a multi-meter and verified voltage was not present at the starter solenoid when the ignition was switched to the start position. Disconnected the electrical portion of the ignition switch, manually turned the switch to the start position and found the engine started normally. Visually inspected the ignition key switch and the ignition switch housing and found the housing was cracked, which allowed the entire ignition key switch to rotate freely in the housing.

Correction
Replaced the ignition switch housing and verified the vehicle operated properly. The customer’s concern did not return.

Where do I add oil to my engine?

2016-05-09T10:27:00.000-04:00

Sometimes we forget just how little is taught when it comes to taking care of the simplest things when it comes to cars. We depend on them every day to get us to and from work but show them very little attention once we get there. One of the most important things to keep an eye on is the engines oil level. And when it is low, topping it off so we can continue to rely on them each day.

Locating the engine oil cap requires looking under the hood. Don't be scared. It is usually clearly identified with the word "OIL" marked on the top of the oil fill cap. Turn the cap to the left just like opening your 20 oz. beverage of choice. Add the appropriate amount of oil and tighten the cap back on.

Is my car overheating?

2016-03-22T08:56:00.001-04:00

Is my car overheating?

I own a 1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Sierra with 66,000 miles. My temperature indicator has been going over 1/2 and up to 3/4 and almost into the red zone. Is my car overheating? It usually always stayed on 1/2 while driving or while in idle.

I took it to get checked and the mechanic said that it is not the thermostat or the radiator and he put an instrument on the thermostat and it registered 200 and on two other places that registered 180. He thinks it is the Temperature indicator that is faulty and is going to install a new one on my dashboard when the part comes in.

I noticed yesterday that on the floor of the front seat passenger side that it was wet. I felt around and it does feel like it has an oily feel. I park under a canopy and usually the car is not in the rain and it hadn't rained lately so I know it isn't a leak. My friend told me it could be coolant leaking out of the heater core, etc.

I take the car for short hops and the indicator never goes into the red part but it makes me nervous as I don't want to drive an overheated car and ruin the engine.

Does anyone out there have any ideas of what it may be? Dolores, Who has to keep this car on the road as I have no money to buy another. Only use it on short hops, etc......

Aftermarket stereo mount 2001 Ford Taurus

2016-02-29T11:25:00.001-05:00

I've installed my own car stereos in about 10 vehicles now. It's been a while and I'm experiencing major sticker shock at the cost of mounting kits for this car. It's got that obnoxiously all-inclusive panel that has both the radio and temperature dials combined, and runs around $60 and up all over the internet. I really don't want to spend that much.

I've taken a good look-see at the dash. I thought an under dash mount (which runs only about $12) would be a good alternative, as I don't intend to keep this car through next winter and it would be easier than swapping the OEM stereo out and then having to swap it back when I sell the car. But the underside of that part of the dash is a big gaping hole with no real place to screw into.

I'm about ready to just connect the wiring harness and lay the darned thing on the floor if i can't find a better alternative. It's got a remote control and I mostly intend to use it to plug my MP3 player into the input jacks on the back anyway.

Any ideas?

Windshield wipers different speeds

2016-02-12T08:14:00.000-05:00

2000 Chevy Blazer. The other night I turned on my wipers and the driver's side worked fine, but the passenger side only moved a little bit. But with every cycle, it moved a little more, but not at the same rate. So after a few cycles, the two blades collided in the middle, and knocked one of the blades off. I put new blades on but they are not moving at the same speed. What can I do?
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Windshield wipers are great for clearing the view when they work properly. But when they don't the view couldn't be more obstructed. Your windshield wiper arm retaining nut has managed to work its way loose. This happens more often when there is snow or ice build up. The windshield wiper gets frozen to the windshield. The windshield wipers get turned on and the motor is strong enough to loosen the retaining nut on the windshield wiper arm. This allows the wiper arms to move around and collide with each other. The wiper arm will need to be adjusted and the retaining nut fastened. Then they should work as they should.

Windshield Wiper Arm Replacement

Remove the cap from and retaining nut. I find a flat blade screw driver works well for removing the cap. Then you will need to remove the windshield wiper arm assembly. The windshield wiper arm can be difficult to remove. The use of a windshield wiper arm removal tool makes this job easy.

Using the tool instead of a pry bar will save you from cracking the windshield. The tool is easy to use and dose not require a lot of strength to operate. Once the wiper arm is removed, set the wipers in the "OFF" position so they return the the fully stowed position. Note the position of the existing arm and match that when installing the wiper arm. Install the retaining nut and cap. Test windshield wiper operation.

DIY Winter Car Kit

2016-01-11T14:30:00.002-05:00

Everything you need for any emergency on the road with 365 days roadside assistance protection. Complete with a sturdy three piece aluminum shovel for snow, sand or mud. Don't wait until it's too late. Winter is coming and you will want this in your car with you!

Description

Safety kit with aluminum shovel, tow strap, blanket, booster cables, emergency triangle, flashlight, poncho work gloves, and first aid kit. This is an all in one automotive roadside safety kit. Includes 365 days of roadside assistance protection for up to three service calls of $60 each.

365 days of Roadside assistance protection

Three piece aluminum shovel included

Booster cables, Tow strap, emergency warning triangle

Emergency blanket, work gloves, rain poncho,

Flashlight with batteries

First aid kit

Winter is just around the corner. Make sure you and your loved ones are safe on the roads with everything you need in this kit!

AAA Sever Weather Road Kit

Equipment that Keeps you Safe and Comfortable

AAA means quality, and with the Premium AAA Explorer Road Kit, that is what you get. You never know where the road may lead or what may happen, so don't be caught unprepared. LifeLine First Aid--a leader in the field of first-aid and disaster readiness products--has teamed up with AAA to bring you a line of high quality Road Assistance Kits.

Featuring both first-aid and automotive emergency items, these practical all-in-one kits can help protect you in the event of an automobile breakdown or personal injury. If an accident or personal injury were to occur during your trip, would you be ready to deal with it? Being unprepared for a situation requiring first-aid can turn an inconvenience into something much more serious. Nobody wants to be stuck on the side of the road, but the AAA Severe Weather Road Kit will help keep you safe and comfortable while you are waiting for help. The Road kit contains a variety of medical supplies that can address a wide range of minor injuries as well as road safety equipment to keep you prepared, especially during the winter season.

What's in the Kit?

The AAA Branded 66 Piece Severe Weather Road Kit gives you the essentials to keep you safe while on the road during the winter season. Each kit comes packaged in a high quality, carry bag for easy storage and access in your car. The First Aid contents contain; First Aid guide, sting relief pad, 6 antiseptic pads, 35 bandages, sterile gauze pad, adhesive tape roll. The automotive safety and survival tools include; emergency whistle, 2 hand warmers, survival blanket, 3 emergency candles, quick-spark fire starter, accident forms and guidelines brochure, AAA membership brochure, 9 led aluminum flashlight, 3 batteries, 3 piece fleece set with cap, gloves and scarf, folding shovel with sheath, ice scraper, led safety strobe.

You never know where the road may lead or what may happen, so don't be caught unprepared. LifeLine First Aid, a leader in the field of first-aid and disaster readiness products has teamed up with AAA to bring you a line of high quality Road Assistance Kits. Featuring both first-aid and automotive emergency items, these practical all-in-one kits can help protect you in the event of an automobile breakdown or personal injury. Equipment That Keeps You Safe and Comfortable. If an accident or personal injury were to occur during your trip, would you be ready to deal with it? Being unprepared for a situation requiring first-aid can turn an inconvenience into something much more serious. Nobody wants to be stuck on the side of the road, but the AAA Winter Safety Road Kit will help keep you safe, warm, and comfortable while you are waiting for help. It contains a folding shovel, aluminum flashlight, and emergency whistle, three items that can minimize the amount of time you are stranded. All AAA Assistance Kits come with LifeLine's 45-piece first-aid supply pouch. It contains a variety of medical supplies that can address a wide range of minor injuries.

Welding Gas Question

2016-01-03T10:56:00.002-05:00

A couple of days ago while buying an extension ladder from a person in
Vandalia, OH, I also bought a gas welding setup with the two oxygen
and acetylene tanks, and a rolling cart for the tanks.

I've done some brazing before with oxy-acetylene but not true welding.
I plan to learn what I can from YouTube and from a highly rated book I
have ordered from Amazon.

What I's like to know is how I should go about getting more gas when
these tanks are eventually empty. These tanks are beyond their
certification date.

Do I just exchange the tanks for filled ones or do I have to get these
re-certified and pay a fee? If there's a fee involved, roughly what is
the charge for re-certifying a tank for acetylene or oxygen?