Babyville Boutique™

Shopping Cart Handle Cover Tutorial

Joanna S. — Tue, 30 Apr 2013 12:48:31 -0400

This quick and easy-to-sew cover will protect your baby from germs and dirt found on the handle of a shopping cart. Optional loops for hanging baby’s toys keeps them handy and off the floor.

Supplies Needed:
Babyville Boutique™ Mod Dots PUL - 6ʺ x 22ʺ
Babyville Boutique Pink FOE - 7ʺ
Babyville Boutique EZ Adjust Tape™ - Three 1ʺ pieces each hook and loop OR four sets of coordinating Babyville Boutique Snaps
Anti-Pill Polyester Fleece – 6ʺ x 22ʺ
Optional: Babyville Boutique FOE - 10ʺ piece for toy loops

Instructions:

1. Cut PUL, EZ Adjust Tape and FOE to the above measurements.

2. Fold 7ʺ FOE in half and pin raw edges together on center of one 6ʺ side of PUL rectangle. The loop should be extending onto the PUL. Stitch the loop to PUL 1/8ʺ from the edge.

3. Pin fabric side of PUL rectangle to right side of fleece rectangle. Stitch around outside edge 3/8ʺ from the edge, leaving a 3ʺ hole for turning. Clip corners.

4. Turn to right side through the hole making sure the corners are pushed out and the opening is pinned to inside. Topstitch 1/8ʺ from edge, all around, making sure to stitch opening closed.

5. Use a medium zigzag and stitch EZ Adjust Tape loop pieces onto PUL side using photo as a guide for placement.

6. (Optional) If adding toy loops, turn ends of 10ʺ FOE strip under 1/2ʺ, then pin to center of PUL side of cover. Stitch both ends to PUL; back tack. From both ends, measure in 3ʺ and stitch across. Again, back tack to secure.

7. Using a medium zigzag, stitch 1ʺ hook pieces of EZ Adjust tape to the fleece side of the cover along one long edge (make sure placement aligns with loop tape on opposite edge of cover). If using snaps instead of EZ Adjust tape, use four sockets along one edge of the PUL side and four studs along the other edge on the fleece side.

8. Roll up the cart handle cover and slip the FOE loop over the roll to secure it, then pop it in your purse or diaper bag.

The Great Cloth Diaper Change

Ellie Joos — Fri, 12 Apr 2013 09:02:49 -0400

On April 20, 2013, The Great Cloth Diaper Change is getting ready to break its 2012 Guinness World Record for the most reusable cloth diapers simultaneously changed.
One hundred and eighty-two hosts have registered to hold events in eleven countries. At exactly 11am local time in each location, thousands of babies will have their cloth diapers changed as groups meet in churches, schools and other facilities.

This exciting event was created in 2011 by Judy Aagard in celebration of Earth Day and quickly caught on when cloth diaper enthusiasts wanted to demonstrate cloth diapering options to today’s families.

To learn more about participating or hosting an event in your area, please visit The Great Cloth Diaper Change Guinness World Records™ Diaper Changing Challenge, at this link: http://greatclothdiaperchange.com. Should you participate with your darling baby, we hope you will share your pictures with us on Facebook!

Finding the Right Soaker Fabric Combinations

Krista T. — Fri, 05 Apr 2013 07:49:36 -0400

The biggest challenge in cloth diapering is using the right soakers to keep baby dry and happy. Recently, Design Team member, diaper designer and mom, Krista Tracy tested 100% cotton terry toweling, 100% cotton flannel and 100% cotton knit interlock - all three fabrics available at JoAnn Fabrics.

To begin, she made tri-fold soakers 12ʺ x 15” in nine different combinations. Using a 2 hour time period between changes, she checked each soaker combination to determine which achieved the best absorption results for typical baby wetting scenarios.

For a child that is an average/normal wetter, Krista recommends the following layered combinations:

3 to 4 layers of flannel (tri-folded rectangle soaker = 9-12 layers flannel)
3 layers of flannel plus 1 layer of terry toweling (tri-folded rectangle soaker = 9 layers flannel plus 3 layers of terry toweling)
3 layers of terry toweling (tri-folded rectangle soaker = 9 layers terry toweling)
2 layers of cotton knit interlock plus 2 layers of flannel (tri-folded rectangle soaker = 6 layers knit plus 6 layers of flannel)
2 layers of cotton knit interlock plus 2 layers of terry toweling (tri-folded rectangle soaker = 6 layers knit plus 6 layers of terry toweling)
2 layers of cotton knit interlock (tri-folded rectangle soaker = 6 layers) plus 3 layers of cotton knit interlock (tri-folded rectangle soaker = 9 layers) for a total of 15 layers

What are your favorite combinations? If you have tested fabrics and found the “perfect” combination to keep your baby dry, we’d love to read your comments. Mommies and babies everywhere will thank you!

Dress Factory – Sweet Dresses and Shorts for Needy Children

Ellie Joos — Thu, 28 Mar 2013 01:39:06 -0400

Recently Prym Consumer USA received a lovely thank you note and photos from “Dress Factory”, an organization started a year ago by Nancy Johnson-Srebro out of her desire to sew sweet colorful dresses for little girls in need. At the time Nancy never dreamed that a year later this act of kindness would grow and bring smiles to thousands of children worldwide.

Nancy’s quest began when she shared her plans with her sister and showed her the dresses. Within a few days her sister’s church asked Nancy to teach a dressmaking class so they could join in her endeavor. During the same week Nancy’s quilt guild also volunteered to sew the dresses in addition to little boy’s shorts. As a result “Dress Factory” came to life.

Nancy began seeking donations of fabrics and supplies from sewing and quilting manufacturers including Prym Consumer USA. Now a year later Nancy’s Dress Factory has made over 600 dresses and 500 pairs of shorts that have been sent to children in Africa, Haiti, Mexico and Jamaica. This spring over 100 dresses and 66 pairs of shorts will be delivered to children in orphanages in Cambodia.

Nancy’s joy in the success of this program is magnified many times over by the smiles and joy seen in the faces of the children wearing Dress Factory dresses and shorts. If you or your organization is also interested in helping or for more information, contact http://www.littledressesforafrica.org/blog/.

Boy’s Tie Bib Tutorial

Katie S. — Tue, 26 Mar 2013 09:45:15 -0400

Easter is a fun time for dressing little ones. Unfortunately, by the end of the day, things can get a little messy. To help keep your little gentleman looking handsome all day, try this cute Tie Bib. Your little guy will look snazzy, even after he eats.

Supplies Needed:
Tie Bib Pattern (click here to download)
Babyville Boutique™ PUL 21ʺ x 24ʺ Diaper Cuts - 1 White and 1 Coordinating Color
Babyville Boutique Snaps and Snap Pliers
Dritz® Ballpoint Pins
Dritz Mark-B-Gone® Marker
Rick-Rack
Scissors
Sewing machine

1. Use your favorite bib pattern and trace it onto the laminate side of the PUL fabric pieces. Make sure to reverse the pattern so you have a bib and a lining piece.

2. Print the “tie” and “knot” pattern. You will need to cut out 1 “knot” and 2 “tie” pieces from the PUL. Make sure these will be the right size for your bib. You can adjust if needed.

3. On one tie piece, pin the rick-rack in diagonal stripes. Pin vertical stripes on the knot piece. Straight stitch the rick-rack on the tie and knot, then trim evenly around.

4. Place the two tie pieces, fabric sides together, and pin. Sew around using a ¼ʺ seam allowance, leaving the top of the tie open for turning. Trim corners.

5. Turn right side out, pin and topstitch around.

6. Pin the “knot” onto the bib, centered and about ¾ ʺ below the neck line. Place the “tie” under the knot as the tie will not be stitched down elsewhere.

7. Topstitch around the “knot” 1/8ʺ from the edge. Then, using a short narrow zig-zag, stitch around the “knot” again. Be sure the stitching anchors the tie in place.

8. Place the bib pieces right sides together, pin and sew leaving an opening along the bottom for turning. Turn, pin and topstitch 1/8ʺ from the edge, making sure opening is stitched closed.

9. Attach a snap set for the neck closure. Place both a socket and a stud on each of the bottom corners of the bib. (The socket and stud should be on the outside of bib) When both sides are snapped together, it will create a pocket for catching spills and crumbs before they even reach the Easter outfit.

10. Look at this handsome boy modeling his Easter Tie Bib!

Easter Activity Bag with Detachable Appliques

Melissa P. — Thu, 21 Mar 2013 04:53:06 -0400

Toddlers will love carrying a few of their little treasures in this cute Easter activity bag. Change the detachable embellishments and it’s great for any occasion.

Supplies:
Babyville Boutique™ Pink PUL - Two 8ʺ x 8ʺ pieces
Babyville Boutique PUL Scraps – Assorted colors for decorative appliques
Babyville Boutique Snaps and Pliers – 3 snap sets to match appliques
Babyville Boutique Foe - 22ʺ
Babyville Boutique Button – 1 Flower or Duck (For children 4 and over)
Babyville Boutique Duck Applique
Babyville Boutique Flower Applique
7ʺ Zipper
Baby Rick-Rack
Fusible Craft Interfacing

1. You will need 2 pieces of pink PUL, 8ʺ by 8ʺ. Large scraps are perfect.

2. My toddler loves zippers so I used a 7ʺ zipper and even though it isn’t the perfect size, it’s fine. On one PUL piece, place the zipper, coil side facing fabric side of the PUL; pin in place. Using a zipper foot, straight stitch close to the zipper teeth.

3. Using the second PUL piece, repeat Step 2 for the other side of zipper. After zipper is inserted, it should be sewn between the two pieces of PUL.

4. Topstitch on both sides of the zipper.

5. With zipper open, place fabric sides of PUL together. For the handle, fold the FOE along the fold line. From inside of bag, pin into side seams, making sure when unfolded the FOE opens toward zipper. Continue pinning around bag then stitch along the sides and bottom using a ½ʺ seam allowance.

6. Next, you’ll add depth to the bag rather than it being a flat “pillowcase” style. Hold one bottom corner of the bag with the side seam against the bottom seam, forming a triangle. Measure ½ʺ from point, and pin to mark stitching line.

7. Do the same for the opposite corner creating “dog ears” at the bottom corners. Be sure the seam allowance is laying in the same direction all around the bag.

8. Stitch across the corners, making sure the bag’s side and bottom seams line up to form a tidy corner.

9. Turn the bag right side out. You should have a squared bottom and the FOE handle should be in place.

10. Next, add some detachable decorations with a fun Easter theme. Your toddler will love snapping these embellishments on and off the bag! I am using a little duck applique with a matching yellow snap stud, a flower applique with a matching pink snap stud and two pale pink snap sockets that match the color of the bag.

11. Apply fusible craft interfacing to the back of each of the applique pieces. Although this is not completely necessary, it does add stability since these will be snapped off and on. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for fusing the appliques and interfacing. Trim away excess interfacing around edge of applique.

Apply the snap studs to the applique pieces, making sure the caps are on the outside of the appliques. Set these aside.

12. To make a quick Easter egg decoration, cut an egg shaped piece of PUL from a coordinating color. Press a piece of fusible craft interfacing to the laminate side of the PUL. Topstitch around the egg 1/8ʺ from the edge. Cut away the excess interfacing.

13. Add baby rick-rack to the egg. Fold the raw edge of the rick-rack around the back of the egg and straight stitch across the middle of the rick-rack catching the folded edges at the beginning and end of the stitching. Repeat for as many stripes as you like.

14. Attach a matching snap stud to the egg, making sure the cap is on the outside of the egg. Attach the coordinating snap sockets to the bag so that the decorative pieces can be snapped on. Be sure to check the placement of these before attaching the sockets, making sure they do not overlap.

15. Optional: I added a little pocket from a PUL scrap approximately 3ʺ x 7ʺ. Hem both short ends of the scrap.

16. Fold the scrap with fabric sides together about two-thirds of the way up. Leave enough at the top to form the top flap of the pocket.

17. Stitch around the pocket using a ¼ʺ seam allowance. Fold under the top edge of the pocket flap and topstitch so no raw edges show when the pocket is closed. Clip corners of pocket and turn right side out. Fold in side edges of flap and topstitch ¼ʺ from edge.

18. Use your sewing machine and make a buttonhole on the flap. You might want to use a separate PUL scrap to practice and to make sure the buttonhole is the correct size for your button. Optional: Use a piece of PUL or interfacing to stabilize the laminate side of the PUL buttonhole. Use a button thread and hand sew the button onto the front of the pocket making sure it is securely sewn on. (Do not use a button for children age three and under.) For another option, use EZ Adjust Tape™ for this closure and then securely hand sew the button to the outside of the flap.

19. Opening the bag as much as possible, pin the pocket with flap open to one side of the bag. Stich the lower pocket section onto the bag, making sure not to catch the flap in the stitching. Button pocket closed.

20. Snap the appliques onto the bag and hand it to your little one. Mine said “Thank you sooo much!”

Easter Diaper with Dimensional Flower Embellishments

Jenny S. — Wed, 20 Mar 2013 04:23:40 -0400

Supplies Needed:

Babyville Boutique™ PUL - Solid Turquoise Diaper Cut 21ʺ x 24ʺ

Babyville Boutique PUL Scraps Solid Yellow, Pink, Lavender, White
Babyville Boutique Snaps and Snap Pliers (for flower embellishments)
Dritz® Mark-B-Gone™ Disappearing Pen
100% Polyester Thread to match PUL
Ruler, Scissors, Ball Point Pins

Instructions:
1. Trace and cut your outer PUL.

2. Using a Mark-B-Gone disappearing ink pen, mark the snap placements and elastic markings on the PUL. I made an AI2 and used the placement of those two snaps to mark the box for my appliqué.

3. For striped egg, cut out as many strips of PUL as you’d like. I used 5 strips, cutting them 1½ʺ tall by 5ʺ wide.

4. Using a ¼ʺ seam allowance, sew PUL strips together with fabric side facing. After stitching, turn to fabric side and topstitch each section using matching thread.

5. Using the Mark-B-Gone, draw an egg shape on the sewn strips. Don’t worry if it isn’t perfectly oval.

6. Cut your egg shape out. It’s a good idea to center it in the drawn box on the diaper to make sure it is the correct size you want.

7. Using your cut egg as a reference, you will need a scrap of white PUL that is more than twice the width of the egg and leaves at least ¾ʺ on the top and bottom when the scrap is folded. (If needed, you can trace around the egg using the Mark-B-Gone for Step 8 placement.)

8. Pin your egg to your outer PUL using lots of pins or you can glue it in place using a fabric glue stick. You’ll also want to pin the scrap of white PUL on the underside of outer PUL, with white PUL fabric side to outer PUL laminate side, making sure it is in the correct position under egg appliqué.

9. Sew the egg to your diaper using a zig-zag satin stitch. The stitch length should be as close to “0” as you’re comfortable with. The stitch width is up to you. Line up the outside edge of your applique with the right side width of the zig-zag stitch so the needle will cover the cut edge of the egg. As you can see, I use the guides on my presser foot to set my width so that the needle goes inside the egg and moves over into the PUL outer, thereby covering the raw edges of the egg.

10. Backstitch at your starting point a few times to secure your thread. Stitch slowly, removing pins as you stitch, and making sure to place needle down, lift presser foot and pivot fabric as needed to follow the egg shape. Clip thread ends and marvel at your good work!

The back of your work will look like this photo.

11. At this point, you will need to seal the applique. Remove all remaining pins and turn diaper over so laminate side is up. Fold your scrap of PUL over, meeting the edges as best you can and pin only the white PUL together. Do Not pin through the diaper outer.

12. Move the diaper outer out of the way of the presser foot and needle. Sew around the folded PUL, along the outside edge of the appliqued egg, making sure the outer PUL is clear of the stitching.

13. Trim close to your stitching, making sure you do not clip your outer PUL. The appliqué is now sealed to prevent leaks.

To further embellish your Easter diaper, continue to Step 14, or you can stop now and finish your diaper following your pattern instructions.

To Make Flower Embellishments:

14. Use small scraps of PUL with laminate sides facing, and iron the two pieces together using a hot, dry iron. For this tutorial, I used white, yellow and pink PUL. Use the Mark-B-Gone pen and sketch out several flower shapes, then cut them out. Apply a snap through the center of each flower, using a stud and cap.

15. Next, take a socket and cap (one for each flower) and attach them where you’d like on your diaper outer. Make sure to place a small square of PUL on the laminate side of the diaper for added stability.

16. If flowers aren’t your thing, you can cut out mini eggs, using the snaps as polka dots.
Note: You can make your embellishments permanent instead of removable. Mark where you’d like your flowers or eggs to be, then apply the embellishment directly to the diaper. Place cap through both the embellishment and the outer diaper PUL, with the cap facing the outside of the diaper. Secure with a snap socket inside the diaper.

17. To finish, complete your diaper following your pattern instructions. Then it’s all done!

Babyville Boutique™ Diaper Pattern Layouts

Christina B. — Mon, 11 Mar 2013 08:02:42 -0400

Use these handy layouts for maximizing the number of diapers yielded from the diaper pattern in the Babyville Boutique book, Cloth Diapers Made Easy. The layouts are based on one yard of Babyville PUL, 64ʺ x 36ʺ.

For an innovative layout showing you how to get two large diapers from a Babyville Boutique PUL Diaper Cut (21ʺ x 24ʺ), see : How to get 2 Large diapers out of one Babyville PUL diaper cut!

Onesie Shirt Conversion with Applique Tutorial

Christina B. — Thu, 28 Feb 2013 06:57:35 -0500

Babies usually outgrow the length of onesies before they outgrow the top. Convert your onesie to a T-shirt trimmed with an adorable appliqué and extend the life of the garment. This technique is also a great way to add a little fun to colored onesies!

Supplies Needed:
Babyville Boutique™ Applique
Well-fitting Onesie Garment
Iron & Ironing Board
Rulers
Rotary Cutter and Mat or Scissors
Sewing Machine

1. Lay the onesie so it is flat. Cut off bottom, 1/2” above leg hole binding.

2. Turn shirt inside out and fold bottom up 1/2”. Press.

3. Sew hem 3/8” from bottom folded edge. Sew another line 1/4” below first line.

4. Turn shirt right side out and press again.

5. Measure 1/2” below armpit and mark center of shirt for applique.

6. Center Babyville Boutique applique at center of shirt then press following package directions. You can also stitch the applique onto the shirt.

Enjoy your darling new shirt!

Un-Paper Towels Tutorial

Trisha P. — Tue, 26 Feb 2013 06:17:26 -0500

Instead of spending money on disposable paper towels, why not make your own re-useable towels that are easy to wash and can be used again and again?

Supplies Needed:
3/4 Yard Flannel - two different prints or 1 ½ yards flannel of one print
1 ½ Yards Birdseye Diaper Fabric
Babyville Boutique™ Snaps
Dritz® Mark-B-Gone™ Disappearing Marker
OmniGrid® Ruler

Instructions:
1. Prewash Birdseye diaper fabric in hot water to pre-shrink the fabric. Dry on medium heat. Cut out twelve rectangles 11½" x 12" from the diaper fabric (depending on how much the fabric shrank in the wash, you may have to adjust the measurements to fit your yardage). Next, cut six rectangles 11½" x 12" from each flannel print (or same size as Birdseye rectangle).

2. Place one flannel rectangle and one diaper fabric rectangle right sides together. Stitch around all four sides with a 1/4" seam allowance, leaving a 2-3" opening for turning.

Repeat with remaining rectangles.

3. Turn right side out then topstitch around, making sure to stitch the opening closed.

4. Using the Mark-B-Gone pen, mark the snap placement ½" in from the corners of the rectangles.

5. Place the rectangle so the longer side is the width and the shorter side is the height. On the left side of the rectangle, apply snaps with the sockets on the diaper fabric side and caps on the flannel side. On the right side of the rectangle, apply snaps with the studs on the flannel side and the caps on the diaper fabric side.

Repeat for all towels. If you want to have a designated beginning and ending towel, do not apply snaps to the left side of the beginning towel or on the left side of the ending towel.

6. Now, simply snap the towels together, alternating prints.

7. To finish, use an old paper towel roll and roll your new cloth towels around it. Place it on a paper towel holder and you are finished! Simply unsnap a towel when you need it and machine wash when they are dirty.

Zippered Wet Bag Tutorial

Jessica F. — Thu, 21 Feb 2013 01:25:26 -0500

When you use cloth diapers, you’ll find it is necessary to have a place to store dirty diapers when you are out and about running errands or visiting friends. A PUL wet bag is a great option, and it is fast and simple to create. They are also great bags for transporting wet clothing like swimsuits. In this tutorial, I am making a wet bag that will finish approximately 12” x 12”, however; you can alter these instructions to make any size wet bag you want!

Supply List (for 12ʺ x 12ʺ bag)

Yellow PUL - 13ʺ x 22ʺ
Monkey PUL - 13ʺ x 4ʺ
Zipper - 12ʺ
FOE - 12ʺ
Monkey Applique
Snaps and Snap Pliers - optional

1. Place yellow PUL and monkey PUL fabric sides together, aligning one 13” edge and pin using ball point pins.

2. Stitch together using a 3/8” seam allowance then turn to fabric side, making sure the seam allowance underneath is folded toward yellow PUL. You can pin to secure seam allowance in place if needed.

3. Topstitch along yellow PUL, making sure the seam allowance is caught in the stitching. I find it easier if I line my presser foot with the seam line but move my needle over to the side where the topstitching will be stitched.

4. Next, attach any appliques or labels. I like to use my fabric glue stick to hold everything in place before stitching them.

5. Use a straight stitch or narrow zigzag around your applique or label to attach it. To prevent any leaking from the stitching holes, you can place another piece of PUL behind the applique. For more instructions on sewing appliques to PUL, refer to the Babyville Boutique book, Cloth Diapers Made Easy.

6. Next place your zipper on the fabric side of the top edge of the monkey PUL. Make sure the zipper teeth are facing down. Stitch the zipper to the PUL along the top edge. You can use a zipper foot if you have one for your machine. Also, it is optional whether or not to pin your zipper in place before stitching. I usually don’t but if you do, remember to remove the pins before stitching over them.

7 After stitching, fold the zipper back and topstitch along the monkey PUL to secure it in place. I find I can use my zipper foot along the zipper teeth as a guide for my topstitching but use whatever foot is best for you. On a regular foot, you can always adjust your needle position when you topstitch.

8. Next, stitch the other side of the zipper to the opposite 13” end of the yellow PUL. It is usually easier if you stitch with the zipper on the top but make sure the PUL is facing with the fabric sides together.

9. Turn the wet bag to the fabric side and then topstitch the zipper as referred to in Step 8. TIP: It is important to make sure you unzip the zipper from this point on. You do not want to figure out how to open it later.

10. At this point, your bag should look like this:

11. With the zipper unzipped, turn the bag to the wrong (laminate) side. Arrange the bag so there is about 1” of the yellow PUL above the zipper. You may have to put in a few pins along the seam allowance to hold it in place.

12. For the FOE handle, insert the FOE inside the bag along the top edge, just above the zipper. The edge of the FOE should align with the seam. I usually place the handle so it will be on the side of the bag opposite the opened end of the zipper. * For this bag, I am doing a snapping handle so I am only sewing the FOE on one end. If you want a looped handle, make sure to position the FOE so you will be stitching both ends in the seam.

13. Pin the side seam of the bag together, making sure to secure the FOE in the seam.

14. Before pinning the opposite side together, make sure the top measurement is the same on both sides. Your cutting mat is great for checking the top measurement.

15. Continue pinning the side seam, checking to make sure bag is even on both sides.

16. Stitch the side seams together making sure to catch the FOE and zipper ends in the stitching. Backstitch at the beginning and end. Again, make sure your zipper is unzipped before stitching.

17. Trim the corners, then turn the bag right side out through the opened zipper. Now you can see why it is important to make sure it is left unzipped!

18. If you chose a looped handle, your bag is finished and you can skip to Step 22, but for a handle with a snap closure, you will need your pliers, awl, and a set of snaps (2 caps, a stud, and a socket).

19. Using the awl, poke a hole in the middle of the FOE about 1” from the seam.

20. Apply the stud portion of the snaps following the Babyville pliers’ instructions.

21. Fold the raw end of the FOE over about an inch and again use the awl to make a hole and apply the socket portion of the snaps.

22. TADA! Your wet bag is complete! Be sure to machine dry your bag on a hot temperature for about 20 minutes to make sure the stitching holes are sealed.

PUL Pillow Protectors Tutorial

Jo M. — Tue, 19 Feb 2013 01:07:35 -0500

Pillow protectors help extend the life of your pillows and Babyville Boutique™ PUL fabric is the perfect choice for this project.

Supply List:
Pillow of choice
Babyville Boutique PUL
Tape Measure
Babyville Boutique Label - Optional
Disappearing Marker - Optional
Ruler with 45° Markings - Optional
Ribbon – Optional
Fabric Glue Stick - Optional

Step 1. Measure around pillow to determine width and length. This one is a cot pillow and is 31" x 48"

Step 2. Cut a rectangle of PUL that is approximately 2 ½" wider and 8" longer than the measurements from Step 1. This will include the seam allowances and extra fabric to fold over to enclose the pillow. A fatter pillow may need extra length, so before you cut your fabric, check to make sure the fold over section will be long enough. Adjust if necessary.

Step 3. (Optional Embellishments) I wanted to decorate this pillow protector so it would be easy to tell which protector goes with which pillow (In this household we all have different sizes and shapes of pillows). I used my Omnigrid® ruler with 45 lines to mark the ribbon placement. You don’t have to be precise with this. You can be as creative (or not) as you would like.

Step 4. (Optional Embellishments) Mark additional parallel lines.

Step 5. (Optional Embellishments) Using a fabric glue stick to temporarily glue a label in place.

Step 6. (Optional Embellishments) Measure ribbon to place over the drawn lines adding ½" to extend beyond the edges. Temporarily glue these in place for stitching.

Step 7. (Optional Embellishments) Sew ribbon and label in place.

Step 8. (Optional Embellishments) On the short edge of the protector, turn under the ribbon and raw edge of fabric and stitch in place. You could use a straight stitch or a zigzag – I’ve opted for a small zigzag in this example.

Step 9. Fold fabric widthwise, right sides together, with ribbon edge down 8" from other short edge.

Step 10. Fold the extended short length over the raw edge, overlapping 8". Pin together at long sides.

Step 11. Before you sew, check that you are happy with the seam allowance and the fold-over. If you are careful with the pins, you can insert the pillow to check the fit. Adjust if necessary. Stitch the long sides together using a ½"to 3/8" seam allowance. Trim corners.

Step 12. Turn right side out and place pillow inside.

Tip: If you use PUL for your protector, you don’t need to finish the raw edges - or if your sewing machine has a rolled edge function and presser foot, it is possible to do a rolled hem on PUL. Test first using a scrap of PUL trimmed with ribbon and adjust settings as needed.

Enter to WIN our Sewing for Baby Giveaway!

Team Babyville — Thu, 14 Feb 2013 06:54:34 -0500

Spring into Sewing for Baby with this wonderful Babyville Boutique™ giveaway of PUL fabrics and accessories in bright, cheerful spring colors!

Our new giveaway, valued at $175, is perfect for those about-to-be-moms who don’t yet know the sex of their babies. Included in the giveaway are six diaper cuts of PUL fabrics in adorable neutral prints of Ducks, Owls, Monkeys and Pond Friends - perfect for baby boy or baby girl! There are color coordinated notions and embellishments for making diapers or other baby necessities as featured in the two new Babyville project books and pattern packets, also in the giveaway package!

This giveaway includes the follow Babyville Boutique products:

Diaper Cut PUL Fabrics
Snaps and Snap Pliers
EZ Adjust Tape™
EZ Adjust Die Cut Tabs
Fold Over Elastic
Buttons
Coordinating Appliques and Labels
Ultimate Pocket Diaper Pattern
Simply Soakers Pattern
Totally Trainers Pattern
51 PUL Projects
51 Babyville Boutique Projects

Enter below to win, and Happy Sewing!

a Rafflecopter giveaway

Making and Using Cloth Wipes

Joanna S. — Thu, 14 Feb 2013 01:07:11 -0500

Why use cloth wipes? If you have ever changed a messy cloth diaper using disposable wipes, you know the dilemma that you then face. What to do with a wad of soiled trash? With no disposable diaper to wrap it in, you have two choices: throw the wad into your trash (ewww!) or wrap it in a plastic bag first and then put it in the trash. If you are like me, one of the reasons for cloth diapering is to reduce the amount of non-biodegradable trash I add to the landfills. So throwing a plastic bag of messy wipes in the trash every time my child soils is not appealing, not to mention the cost and waste of the disposable wipes and their packaging! I also prefer not to use any chemical formula on sensitive areas of my child. Commercial wipes can cause or aggravate a diaper rash, especially for babies with sensitive skin. The solution? For me, cloth wipes are the answer! They carry all the same benefits that cloth diapers do: better for baby, better for the environment, better for your budget and you can make them yourself!

What is a cloth wipe? Basically a washcloth. If you have ever read the packages of disposable wipes, they normally say, "cleans like a wash cloth.” That’s because cloth cleans better!

Cloth wipes can be as simple as buying an economy pack of terry wash cloths or baby wash cloths,

simple serged or zigzagged flannel squares (a great way to use those receiving blankets when you don't need them anymore),

or as fancy as embellished hand sewn wipes made from bamboo or other specialty fabrics.

You can make them in fun colors and prints, or keep it simple. It is up to you! If using washcloths, I recommend buying a certain color, or dyeing them, to make it easy to keep them separate from your regular face cloths.

What’s needed to make them? You’ll want absorbent natural fiber fabric that will clean well and feel soft and gentle to your baby's tender skin. Good choices are flannel, soft cotton or bamboo terry, cotton or bamboo knits or very soft corduroy, among others. My personal favorite, after making several styles, is a two-layer wipe using jersey knit (up-cycled T-shirts work great) and baby terry knit.

This gives you a “grabby” side for messes and a smooth side for gentle final clean up. The double layers means the mess is not going to seep through onto your hands. The size I prefer are 8"x8" square wipes. I find this size is plenty big enough to do the job and keep my hands clean, and it fits nicely in a commercial wipes box when folded in half.

To make my wipes, I straight stitch 1/4" from the edge all around, then use a wide medium-width zigzag to finish the edges. The knits are not prone to fraying so this works well. If you are lucky enough to have a serger, it would be even easier.

Flannel is easy to find, easy to sew, comes in many cute prints and works well for wipes. It can be made one-layer or two, serged, zigzagged or turned and topstitched. Turn and topstitched wipes are sewn together with the pretty sides of the fabric facing, leaving an unstitched opening on one edge for turning. Turn inside out so the seam edges are inside and topstitch all around 1/8" in from the edge, making sure to stitch the opening closed.

Flannel is more prone to fraying, so the zigzagged ones may not look as pretty after a while, but they are certainly functional. I have found a single layer flannel cloth also works wonderfully for reusable tissues. My kids protest if I try to use a paper one on them, saying they want a "real" tissue. The softness of cloth is great for avoiding raw noses!

You’ll want to wet the wipe before you use it on baby. Basically, dampen the wipe and use it as you would any baby wipe. There are several ways to accomplish this. Which you choose will depend on how often you are using the wipes and your personal preference. You can pre-moisten a day or two's worth of wipes using water or a homemade or purchased wipes solution and keep them in a container or wipes warmer.

Because reusable cloth wipes don't have chemical preservatives in them like commercial wipes, they will get musty or mildew if you leave them wet for long periods of time. When using pre-moistened cloth wipes, I like to make a few more than I think I will use between one diaper wash load and the next. When I put the diapers in the wash, I will toss in any leftover unused wipes, wash my storage container and make up a new batch.

Most homemade wipe solutions contain a combination of water, baby soap (just a few drops), and essential oils or other oils for scent or moisturizing. You’ll find lots of “recipes” on the internet for homemade wipe solutions.

Another method is to keep the wipes dry, put water or a wipes solution in a small spray bottle and just dampen the wipe before you use it.

This avoids the possibility of mildew on wipes and is especially useful when baby gets older and does not need wipes as often. You can keep a bottle at the changing table and a small bottle in your diaper bag. Simplest of all and my favorite for toddlers who may only need wipes for a day or less, is to just wet wipes as needed with warm water in your sink. This is also great when the weather is cold and baby hates cold wipes.

Once you have used your cloth wipes, they go into the diaper pail with the cloth diapers and are washed along with the rest. You may choose to rinse a particularly messy wipe, but most of the time I have found it really isn't necessary. How many wipes you need depends on the age of the child, how often they need wipes, and how often you wash. For older babies, 18-24 wipes are plenty. You may want a larger stash for newborns and babies who mess their diaper frequently.

Cloth wipes can be used anywhere and anytime you would use a cloth diaper. Some moms choose to carry disposable wipes in their diaper bag, but cloth can easily be used instead. You can put a zip-lock baggy or pouch of pre-moistened wipes in your bag, or carry a small spray bottle for moistening wipes before use.

If you carry pre-moistened cloth wipes, be sure to change them out frequently. I don't usually think about my diaper bag unless I am going out, and I have been known to forget about wipes until they are moldy. OOPS! That is why I prefer to carry dry wipes and wet them as needed.

Cloth wipes are a convenient, money saving, eco and baby friendly way to clean your little one's bottom. They are gentler to the skin than commercial wipes and help avoid unnecessary chemicals on your baby. They are fun and easy to make, and a great introduction to sewing for an older child who want to “help” Mommy!

How to Make Babyville Boutique™ Button Hair Ties

Trisha P. — Tue, 12 Feb 2013 01:56:29 -0500

As a little girl, I had hair ties similar to these adorable Babyville Boutique ties, only with two balls on the ends instead of cute buttons. I found these are so much easier to use in my little girl’s hair and most importantly, super easy to get out! My daughter hates having hair ties in and is always asking me to cut them out rather than pull them out. (We use the cheap rubber bands that are not made to be reused.) With these, however, there is no pulling of the hair and they come right out! I can remember when my dad used ties like this to do my hair when I was little. So if my dad can do it, so can you! Here are the instructions for making your own and for using them in your darling daughter’s hair.

Materials needed:
2 Babyville Boutique Buttons for each tie.
Elastic or Stretchy Hair Ties
Upholstery Thread (not pictured)
Needle (not pictured)
Fray Check® (not pictured)

Thread your needle with the upholstery thread and tie the ends together at the bottom so the thread is double stranded.

Take your needle and thread it through the button, making sure to leave a tail. Then insert the needle through the elastic to make sure the button doesn't slide around the elastic.

Sew the button onto the elastic. Insert the needle through the button shank, go over the elastic then back through the button. Repeat this at least 3 times.

Tie a double knot in the thread using the tail you left at the beginning.

Cut the extra thread, and you have one side done!

Now repeat with the other button making sure to place it directly across from the first button.

When you are done, place a dot of Fray Check on both of the knots to keep them from coming undone.

There you have one hair tie completed!

Make another one so you can use them in pigtails.

How to Use:

Place one end of the tie on the top of the hair.

Wrap the hair tie around the hair two to three times depending on the thickness of the hair.

Now hook the hair tie around the button.

Put one side of the rubber band in the front of the button, and slip the other behind the button.

And that's it! Now you have super cute hair ties that are nice and easy to put in. To undo them, simply unhook the one side and they will unwind from the hair.