Wayne Pan is Backpacking in a Suit

The Demise of Anawangin

2011-08-14T02:31:00.000-07:00

For the past couple years, there has been near universal positive buzz in the Filipino backpacking community about a place called Anawangin Cove, just hours north of Manila. Gorgeous, otherworldly, deserted - Anawangin is supposed to be a beach backed by a strange and out of place stand of pine trees and fronted by beautifully clear water. Reachable only by boat or a ten kilometer hike, my friends described it as an undisturbed paradise where you have to pack in all your supplies and dig a hole to relieve yourself. It sounded incredible, but pictures made it look even more stunning, and best of all, you were supposed to have the place all to yourself.


Anawangin, circa 2008 (original)	Anawangin, 2011

Unfortunately, after a period of intense buzz, the magic is gone, as is the peace. (Or perhaps I was just hoping for too much to begin with.) Weekends have always been more crowded it seems, but this past weekend, it was a zoo. There must have been at least five hundred people or maybe even a thousand, spread out over a few hundred tents that crowded each other within the forest. Dozens of bancas, big and small were moored on the beach, leaving scant open ocean in which to swim or play. The trail leading to a cliff-top view point suffered from constant traffic jams and a normally quick hike take at least twenty minutes. Beach and forest, which I had been hoping would be untouched were instead filled with make-shift, semi-permanent bamboo huts that served as both faux luxury accommodation (compared to the tents the rest of us were in) and the local Seven 11, a bank of rough toilets and showers, and picnic benches and firepits.

Gone were the beautiful vistas of an untouched beach with pine trees or the forested riverbanks leading into a lagoon. What was left was just a typical tourist scene, marked by unplanned and thoughtless man-made structures with the best natural scenes fenced off with barbed wire so that the owner of the island could charge money for their use. Yet, it is not hard to see why this place has received so much positive word of mouth. It could be stunning, and there is still a lot going for it. The water is still nice, the beach still beautiful and the pine trees still there. If there wasn't a few hundred new potential friends there sharing it with me, I would be pretty happy. A couple of beaches off the main stretch of the cove serve as a reminder of how amazing Anawangin was just a few months ago - deserted and untouched in its pure and unspoiled natural beauty.

Thankfully, even on the main beach, nature has yet to outwardly show permanent consequences. The semi-permanent structures on the beach and in the forest, and the barbed wire fences may be ugly and unfortunate, but they are not un-removable. Yet they are just the beginning and there is no doubt in my mind that at this rate, irreversible damage isn't far off. Already, there is litter scattered about the beach, the forests, and the surrounding hiking trails. Worse, my tour guide told me that the huge amounts of trash generated by hundreds of carefree tour group tourists unconcerned by environmental impacts is disposed of in open mounds deeper in the forest. Nothing is taken off the island and everything is landfilled, including the incredible amounts of recyclables like empty bottles of water and Tanduay Ice.

As bad as this is, it is not the most troubling. Instead I worry about the rates of water usage that ground pumps are drawing out for thousands of tourists a week to wash with, the run off of shampoo and soap that is just seeping back into the ground, the lack of a real sanitation system, the pollution of dozens of daily of banca trips, or the slow effects of thousands of campers on the trees struggling in an already difficult environment.

No, I am certain that Anawangin cannot continue to suffer this level of traffic with this lack of regulation and environmental concern for very long. Something must be done, or something will give.

The truth is that I was at first disappointed that I was not going to get the Anawangin experience I had imagined. Then I got over myself. I was after all, one of the contributors to this madness, just another in the hordes of people who had heard amazing things about Anawangin and rushed over to experience the beauty of nature and (maybe more so) to be able to boast about having gone to friends.

The reality was that I was witnessing the scary underbelly of tourism development firsthand. This was the first season that the fences had gone up, the first season that masses of people were inundating the beach, the first season where running water and toilets were available. Someone (the private owner of the beach) was finally cashing in on his natural gem, and bringing various boat owners and tour group operators up with him. There is money to be made, and they are going to make it.

While I don't want to stand in the way of development, there is a good way to open up tourism and a bad way to do it. Anawangin is fast approaching the bad way. Until the owner (and strangely, I have heard that it is one person who owns the entire cove) reverses course and develops the area sustainably - even potentially limiting the number of people who can visit at any one time - I suggest avoiding Anawangin. If you do go, don't expect peace, quiet, or even much in the way of natural scenic wonder unmarked by human hands anymore. Instead, you will be, like me, both witness and a contributor to the sad demise of Anawangin.

The future of BinaS....

2011-08-14T01:33:00.000-07:00

I'm struggling with how to continue to populate Backpacking in a Suit, since the trip ended last year. I've considered putting up excerpts from the translation of the blog to the book, but it's so in draft format that I don't think that's a good idea. So, instead, I think I might just put up some random travel thoughts from the places I'm still going - since this site started with travel, maybe it makes sense to use it to keep sharing my travels. I hope everyone is okay with that!

Of course, that doesn't mean I'll ignore Backpacking in a Suit entirely! I'll still put up pictures that I get around to sorting through, as well as any updates on my now happily married friends! :) Thanks again everyone for continuing to stick with me.

Visions of Lesotho

2011-07-14T09:47:00.000-07:00

What? Is it possible? There are still new posts and catch-up photos going up on this website? Yup! You got it. AND.. hopefully... I will get around to putting up a slide-show or two with all of the past photos for easier access!

In the meantime, let's take a stroll down memory lane to Lesotho, one of the most interesting little countries I've ever been to, bordered on ALL FOUR SIDES by South Africa... :)

View from Thabu Bosiu of a village in the valley below

Farming valley near Thabu Bosiu

River valley

Sunset on the road

Farmhouse and Lake

Highway leading into Lesotho

Night-time view of Dubai

2011-04-21T10:32:00.000-07:00

I was browsing through some of my photos from the trip today, and I ran into this night-time view of Dubai taken from the top of the Burj Al Arab. I couldn't resist putting it up. What an audacious city.

Airplanes and Airports

2011-03-08T02:01:00.000-08:00

I remember when I used to think that getting on airplanes was so cool and worldly. Now, I just think it's sort of tiring. That's not to say that there isn't something extremely comforting for me about being in airports and getting on airplanes. I've done it so often, and I have my own routine now, that it feels almost like "coming home" in some way. Mentally and emotionally, it's just sort of comfortable. But physically, since I usually fly for like 10 hours at a time, it's just sort of tiring.

Anyway, this post is not actually an exploration of my routine at airports or in airplanes. Instead, this post is about my three can't leave home without it pieces of plastic (nothing naughty please...) - something that I thought of as I was going through immigration the other day in Hong Kong. Which brings me to...

Plastic #1: Hong Kong International Airport Frequent Visitor Card
I applied for this little ID in 2010. All it takes is 3 entries through the airport in a 12 month period. The benefit? Bypassing that annoying line at immigration, that - during peak periods - can stretch for miles and take an hour to get through, even with that famous HK efficiency. I love being able to watch everyone running past me to get into line, while I take my time, indulge in a bathroom break, and then casually stroll to the front of the line. I'm an ass, I know. But I still love it.

Getting out of the airport is one thing, being stuck in one waiting for your flight is another. I remember the days of sitting on those annoyingly uncomfortable gate chairs, with devilishly positioned arm-rests that prevented anyone from being able to sleep well. Since 2006 though, I've been able to avoid all of that at basically every airport I've flown from because of

Plastic #2: Diner's Club Card
To get lounge access at airports, you usually either have to fly a LOT or pay a LOT. I fly a lot, but not a LOT, and we all know I'm always against paying a LOT - so being able to score a Diner's Club card through a Citibank loophole has been one of the best things that I've ever managed to finagle. They don't have lounges in ALL airports, but they have lounges in most, and while they're not all of very good quality, they are generally better than kickin' it at the gate. There's usually food, drinks, and internet. In Hong Kong, I get cable and magazines and even a shower - or I can opt for a 15 minute chair massage. Really, what more could one ask for? Now, I'm often sad when I get to the airport too late to make use of my lounges!!

Finally, the third piece of plastic is also a credit card, but one that's great for another reason.

Plastic #3: Capital One Credit Card
Most people don't realize how much money they get screwed out of when they're abroad. Whether it's forex commissions, shitty exchange rates, or credit card fees, traveling out of the country is almost always an exercise in subsidizing all sorts of banks. Which is why I love my Capital One Visa. It gives me great exchange rates, it's of course accepted almost everywhere, and best of all, it charges my 0% on foreign transactions. Most cards charge somewhere between 2-3% on every transaction (which adds up really quickly.) But Capital One, bless them for this!, charges nothing, and even eats the MC or Visa charge themselves. It means that I'm almost never worried about having enough money when I get somewhere or about getting screwed and messing up my travel budget. Plus, they even offer rewards on my charges. Can you beat that?

My Ride on the High-Speed Rail

2011-01-15T21:04:00.000-08:00

Another cross posting here guys and gals! Since I'm waxing poetic on the beauty of high speed rail, I thought it would be a more fitting post for "greenpropaganda" but I wanted to make sure to share this cool travel experience with all the Backpacking in a Suit folks also. You can find the full post here:

The World's Fastest Train Service at greenpropaganda

In the meantime, here's an excerpt, and a copy of the (very boring) first ten minutes of my ride. If you want to see how 330km/hr looks, feel free to fast forward to minute 9 or so. :)

Most Americans do not see any reason to construct high speed rail in the country. Why would anyone want to ride a train when they can just fly? There are of course a slew of environmental ramifications of mass airplane travel, but beyond even these, I have always argued that high speed rail makes a ton of sense. Up until now, the only high speed rail I’d ever been on was in Sweden, on my way back to Lund from the Arctic Circle. Even at high speeds, that trip still took 24 hours – an amount of time that certainly makes even the extraordinarily expensive flight much more attractive.

Thus it was with personal excitement and academic curiosity that I decided to take a ride on the world’s fastest train service. Part of the almost finished high-speed rail from Beijing to Guangzhou – essentially from the far north to the far south of the country – the Wuhan-Guangzhou line covers almost 1000km in just over 3 hours. That’s an average of around 300km/hr, and at its fastest, the train hits something like 350km/hr. For those metrically challenged (don’t feel bad, I used a converter), that’s like 210mph, and right around 190mph on average. It is right now, by far, the fastest train ride on the planet, with higher sustained speeds over longer distances than ever before. When the full line is completed, the trip from Beijing to Guangzhou – which used to take over 24 hours – will be cut in a third, to just eight hours. While still longer than the three-to-four hours it takes to fly between the two places, these are speeds and times that truly do make train travel competitive with flights.

Technical specifications aside, what is the actual trip like? Well, fast of course.... more

First ten minutes of the journey, shot in achingly boring fashion.

A New (Beijing) Year

2011-01-01T01:48:00.000-08:00

It doesn't quite fit into Backpacking in a Suit, but I thought people might find it interesting, so I'm doing a cross-posting! The return of the E-mail Journal (those who have been reading my stuff for a few years might remember these with either fondness or hatred) is getting syndicated throughout the WWWWW (Wayne's Whole Wide Web World.)

Full entry / Excerpt.....
"Well, here is the return of the Email Journal, since I'm back in China and I can't easily access any of my favorite pieces of social media. No Blogger, no Facebook, no Twitter. Also no Wiki'ing something, and even my own website is still blocked because I use address forwarding. From my brief experience, and from the analysis of some friends, it seems that censorship here has gotten bolder and more encompassing, while at the same time actually losing some of its effectiveness. The government wants to avoid social networks it can’t control, and in their place have stemmed a number of China-specific social networks and micro-blogging sites that the government can exert control over. Yet on social networks of any kind, information has to be posted first to be blocked, and often those precious few minutes of being shared publicly is enough to send the information around the country. It’s a cat and mouse game that’s still playing out, but suffice it to say that the censorship annoys me and seems pretty pointless at the end of the day. Whatever though, the mice are still running around, and that means there’s still hope for the future."

Seasons Greetings!

2010-12-24T11:35:00.000-08:00

I, along with the Backpack and the Suit would like to say a hearty Happy Holidays for 2010! Thanks to everyone that has given me their support over the past year. I couldn't have done it without you all!!!

Epilogue

2010-12-22T09:41:00.000-08:00

I've been trying to work on writing a book from the material I have amassed for Backpacking in a Suit, but it’s been frustratingly slow going, as anyone who has followed my Facebook page or Twitter feed has seen. I have a plethora of potential material that I can cover, and I’ve written a bit already, but I’m having a hard time finding focus and true inspiration. Or something of that sort. I am still working on the book, but I knew I needed a break, and I was ready for a bit of a change to try to charge my creative juices.

So, in line with what seems to be a theme for my life this year, I agreed to go to another wedding. In India again. Yes, that makes six this year. Plus, realities are that I have an empty bank account, and as always, a continent (Asia) with a hold on my imagination calling. So, that is how I found myself again with the backpack I tried so hard to leave at home firmly on my back, wearing the absurdly wrinkled and dirty suit caked with dust from a dozen countries around the globe.

This time I started out in Punjab. Two of my classmates from my Master’s program were getting married. They have thus far been the first and only pair to tie the knot from our program, and as such, I found myself in the company of three other classmates that were lucky enough to make the trek. It was good fun, and an interesting point of comparison to my last Indian wedding. I felt like a pro, with plenty of wedding experience under my belt, and did my best to share insight and knowledge into the proceedings with my classmates (Me: “This is where they put a dot on her head”, Friend: “Why do they do that?”, Me: “No idea. I just know they do it.”)

From Punjab, I traveled with a classmate that I last saw in Kampala, to the outer reaches of Rajasthan. We spent a few days in Jodhpur and Jaisalmer before rushing (as fast as you can rush via slow moving overnight trains) towards Gujarat for the second half of the wedding. It seems that typical Indian weddings generally happen between people from the same strata of society who have roots in the same region, thus one huge extended wedding is most fitting. In the case of my friends though, they are from different backgrounds and different regions, so instead of forcing entire clans to travel great distances, they just did two ceremonies. Again, it was interesting to note the differences and similarities, from dress to ceremony to food. The one thing that was similar at both weddings? Tooooo cold.

From there, my friend and I moved on to Udaipur and then to Agra, the same place I spent my last days in India on the previous trip. Unfortunately for me, I found myself in much the same mood, only this time without the luxury of a five-star hotel room to retreat to. For numerous reasons, India causes me to become impatient, stressed, unfriendly, and even a bit violent. It took less than one day in the country for me to start throwing my backpack around in crowds and walk on and off trains with my elbows wielded as weapons. At the end of the trip this time just as last time, I was getting into arguments with taxi and auto-rickshaw drivers, throwing dirty looks about me, and ignoring otherwise well-meaning people. It’s a good thing that I anticipated my reaction and only scheduled 12 days in the country.

Now I am back in Beijing, exploring the fast-changing and increasingly upscale city while eating loads of good food. I’ll spend the holidays here before heading back to Hong Kong for a few days of rest and relaxation in the middle of January. After that, I’ll be taking my talents back to Manila, where I plan to work for a few months and hopefully carve out some time to continue writing the book. This is perhaps the biggest news, and it means that I will continue on with my nomadic lifestyle well into the second half of 2011. One trip to the next, one city after another, so it all continues ever onward and I am left to ponder one simple question (along with the content of my writing):

Wasn't Backpacking in a Suit supposed to the final, satisfying scratch to this decade long itch of constant movement?

Visions of India, vol. 1

2010-11-16T04:57:00.000-08:00

Some random selections from my time in India....

Streetside Grill

Decorative Roof, Jaipur

The Train to Shimla, UNESCO

The Original Two-seater

Man

Life without OSHA

Surprise, surprise... a wedding!

2010-10-26T18:13:00.000-07:00

I’m not sure what it was, the tens of thousands of photos I took or the length of time I was traveling, but ever since I finished the travel part of the project, I have suffered from an intense lack of desire and motivation to take photos. It’s not just that I’m at home, looking at things that I see on a regular basis all the time, but that I just don’t feel like picking up my camera at all or looking through the viewfinder.

I thought that three months off would cure me, but this past weekend at my sister’s wedding, I was faced with the undeniable fact that I was still completely uninterested in taking any pictures. It’s too bad, because as a veteran photographer at four weddings since 2010 started, I feel close to a pro at this point. It would have been nice to put that experience to good use at my own sister’s wedding, but I left my camera in the car for the first couple hours, and then after half-heartedly taking a few pictures during the gorgeous ceremony (backed by a brilliant, almost cloudless sky that overlooked the ocean waves lightly rolling onto a beach) I hung my camera bag on my chair and then ignored it for the rest of the night.

Granted, I was the brother of the bride, with responsibilities including giving a speech and playing host, and really had little time to take pictures. Honestly though, even with fewer duties, I don’t know that I would have taken many more. It’s strange. Even the feel of my camera, hanging around my neck like a gargantuan pendant, is no longer comforting to me. I really wonder when this aversion to my camera will give way to that warm glow of familiarity that I am so used to.

On the plus side though, without my camera, I did a lot more talking, chatting, and hosting at the wedding. It was great fun to hang out with my relatives, see my sister’s friends, and be a part of a very special day for my family. I just wish I had taken some more photos with my parents and my sisters.

Visions of Vietnam - vol. 1

2010-10-12T00:55:00.000-07:00

Did you know you can make the pictures bigger by clicking on them? Hahaha, anyway, here's a first batch from Vietnam. Lots of pictures from there, and slow going. Hope you enjoy the first 10!

Woman carrying packages, Hanoi

Daydreaming girl, Hanoi

Atmospheric alley, Hanoi

The Painter, Hanoi

The Child, Hanoi

Taking a fishing break, Hai Phong

An alley marketplace, Hai Phong

Grilling breakfast, Hai Phong

Scooter helmet vendor, Da Nang

Roast duck, Da Nang

Thanks!

2010-10-07T15:43:00.000-07:00

Okay, this is a little narcissistic, but I really like this map, so I thought I'd share! I have a utility that plots visitors to my blog on a Google Map. This was the one for last month.

You guys are all awesome! Thanks for all of the support and for giving me a reason to continue. I'm still hard at work on figuring out how to turn the stuff in the blog into a book. I've written close to 40,000 words already in a super-draft format, but am still VERY far away from finishing. It's going slowly, but the continued support of all of you from around the world helps me keep the faith!

I will try to put up some excerpts from what I've written in the coming weeks. For now though, another huge, hearty THANK YOU!!!

Capsule Spot: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

2010-09-23T02:15:00.000-07:00

Ho Chi Minh (or Saigon, as it was once known) surprised me. It was more vibrant, more dynamic, more enticing than I had expected. The city is in that nice transition phase, where everyday Western luxuries like coffee shops and good pastries are readily available while the city still retains much of its flavor and character. It is also still relatively cheap, so travelers on a budget won’t cringe here, and those with a taste for luxury don’t have to break the bank.

Things to See and Do

Mekong Delta | While still a ways away from HCMC, the Mekong Delta is a convenient one day or overnight excursion, and worth doing. See how people are living in modern times on the most important river in Vietnam, and get a taste of local delicacies and fruits. Traditions may not be as strong as they once were, but a trip to the Mekong is still a good way of getting a taste of how the “real” Vietnam lives. One day trips involve quite a bit of road travel in relation to time spent on the river, so I’d suggest an overnight trip instead. Many companies also offer three day trips, but this seems to be a bit of overkill.

War Remnants Museum | This place used to be known as the Museum of American War Crimes. It has recently changed its name, after relations with the US normalized, but I daresay the contents of the museum have remained largely the same. The exhibits here present an unfortunate and wasteful war in all of its gory detail, and while there is no doubt propaganda here, I would venture to guess that there is more that is true than many Americans would want to believe. Disturbing exhibits aside, the collection of left-over American war machinery outside alone makes this museum worth visiting.

Saigon Saigon Bar @ the Caravelle | One of the most famous landmarks in Saigon, the Saigon Saigon is still worth an evening, if not for the drinks, then for the amazing view of downtown Ho Chi Minh. Located centrally, across from the Opera House, the views from Saigon Saigon are unparalleled. Especially nice on a cool evening, bring your camera and your wallet – drinks are not cheap.

The List

Yearning for a good massage but want to avoid those awkward happy ending offers? Look no further than 118 Foot & Body Massage, a smallish, new, clean, and totally legitimate spa in the heart of downtown Saigon. For a little less than 15 dollars, get access to a hot shower, a sauna, and an 80 minute oil massage complete with hot stones. 118 Pasteur Street, District 1, HCMC. 08-38215313

It’s a bit hidden and off the beaten track, but if you’re looking for a good French patisserie and boulangerie, you may want to drop by La Doree. Owned by a French Vietnamese, this place serves delicious looking pastries and decent food in a comfortable restaurant.

Essentially every tourist will have come to Ngon, but for good reason. Few other places offer the combination of food selection, tourist-friendly menu, cleanliness, and taste that Ngon does. Get pretty authentic specialties from around the country, and – added bonus! – finish off with traditional desserts. Reasonably priced for a tourist trap.

World-wise wisdom

Getting around – taxi’s are easy, but by no means necessary. Don’t be afraid to get on the bus. For 3000 dong, you can get into downtown Saigon from nearly anywhere.

If you’re backpacking and not 21, avoid the Pham Ngu Lau area. There are plenty of affordable (but not super-budget) options in other parts of town. Try the area behind Banh Trinh Market, or just south of the Opera House. You should be able to find a private room from 20USD and up.

Capsule Spot: Hong Kong

2010-09-13T13:46:00.000-07:00

With all of the good stuff that I’ve said about Hong Kong, and as much time as I’ve spent there, it’s surprising that I’ve never actually complied a mini-travel guide to the place. Well, the Capsule Spot seems like the perfect way to correct this situation. By now, anyone reading this should know that Hong Kong holds an incredibly special place in my heart – one of my favorite cities in the world, if not my very favorite. Food, chaos, energy, and the prettiest skyline in all of the world. What’s there not to like?

Things to See and Do

The Harbor | This is the only must-do activity in Hong Kong, and truthfully, much of what you will do in Hong Kong is a variation there-of. From finding restaurants with great views, to getting a stellar hotel room, to visiting the Peak, all of it is to see what is likely the most amazing skyline in the world. Better yet, the best view has been and still is free – directly across the Harbor in Tsim Tsa Tsui near the Star Ferry terminal. Take a leisurely stroll along the water’s edge and give yourself a good hour to just let your eyes and mind wander aimlessly over human ambition.

Escape the Chaos | Hong Kong is one of the most over-whelming places you will ever visit. With nearly 16,000 people per square mile and buildings that rise to nearly incomprehensible heights everywhere, it is easy to forget that that less than 25% Hong Kong’s total area is developed. Get out and see the parks, the beaches, or the outlying islands. Lamma Island is popular with ex-pats for it’s laid-back vibe, while Cheung Chau island offers the annual bun-festival in a sleepy island setting. Both are easily accessible by ferry. If you’re water-averse though, head to the back-side of Hong Kong Island to the sleepy hamlets of Repulse Bay, Aberdeen, and Stanley and take some pictures of beaches, junks, and the 1960s. There are also quite a few decent beaches in Hong Kong – locals swear by Big Wave Bay on the far eastern side of Hong Kong Island, while more ambitious folk will appreciate the isolation of a beach like Hap Mun Bay.

Mong Kok |Probably the most densely populated areas in one of the most densely populated places in the world, Mong Kok is full of people. It is worth going to on the weekend just to witness what a sea of humanity really looks like. It helps also that Mong Kok is one of the most vibrant shopping districts in the city, with malls (Langham Place), street stalls (Ladies Market), and hundreds of places to buy electronics. Goldfish Street is also fun to check out during the day, and there are a plethora of food choices (see below for my personal choice for BBQ here!) Finally, being the transit hub for all of Kowloon means that you’ll find ridiculous amounts of people wandering about at all hours here. It’s just like being in a triad movie (which are all based on Mong Kok anyway.) You have to see it to believe it.

The List

BBQ or char siu as it is more correctly known, is some of the best meat you’ll ever eat. Dim Sum lovers will know this best from BBQ pork buns, but it’s not the same until you get it fresh, still dripping, from the window. Try it at Wing Kee Restaurant (177 Portland Street) while taking a rest from all of the walking and shopping in Mong Kok; and since you’re in the adventurous mood, just go ahead and go crazy – get the crispy skin roast pork, the roast duck, and the roast goose too. My mouth is watering just thinking about it.

Some of the best Indian in the world can be found in Hong Kong, owing to its colonial past and the many Indians that the Brits brought over with them. A vegetarian friend introduced me to Branto in Tsim Tsa Tsui (9 Lock Road, 1/F) years ago, and I’ve been going back ever since. Everything is pretty good, but make sure you get the pani-puri. It’s safe and tasty.

A good meal deserves a good dessert to boot. Hong Kong desserts are just great. You can go the traditional route, with things like red beans soup or hazelnut milk. Or, you can go my favorite route, and get some of the fruit based desserts. Honeymoon Dessert is one of the more famous and reliable chains – you can find outlets in many malls (try Langham Place in Mong Kok, or World Trade Center in Causeway Bay.) I, however, almost always stop by Cheung Kee in Yau Ma Tei (21 Woo Sung Street.) Here, I have three words for you: mango, pomelo, sago. Delicious.

Most people go to Lan Kwai Fong for nightlife, but that’s so blasé. Instead, get a view with your drinks at these pricey but high-value bars. AquaSpirit is on the 30^th floor of One Peking in Tsim Tsa Tsui, offers so-so food and absolutely stunning view of Hong Kong (translation: just get a drink here.) On Island-side, Azure at the top of LKF Hotel in upper Lan Kwai Fong offers 29^th floor views from the top of a hill. Nice. In Admiralty, you can check out how Swire does swank at the Upper House in Pacific Place Mall. Café Grey Deluxe, on the top floor, is now the place where the who’s who in HK go to be seen, and has been getting rave reviews for the food – I haven’t tried it yet, but I find it hard to believe that anything could be better than the view here.

Finding a good place to stay in Hong Kong is always hard (and harder if you’re on a budget.) Screw it, just pay up and find out what real luxury feels like. Hullett House in Tsim Tsa Tsui offers only suites, and only 9 of them, all individually designed. Expect to pay over 500USD a night. The Peninsula, also in Tsim Tsa Tsui, is proven luxury, while I’ve heard good things about both Upper House and EAST from Swire (although EAST is a bit further from where the action is.) The most affordable 5-star luxury hotel in all of Hong Kong though, seems to be the Langham Place in Mong Kok, where a room is still just around 200USD. Being the only one of the above I’ve stayed in, I’m recommending this one.

World-wise Wisdom

Take the MTR. Everywhere. It’s fast, cheap, and simple to ride. If you’re there for a week, consider getting an Octopus card. It costs 50HKD to start out with, but you get a discount on all rides and it makes for a pretty cool souvenir.

The cheapest way to get from the airport to anywhere you want to go is by bus. The E buses are cheapest, but take much longer. The A buses are more expensive, but faster – about 40 minutes to Central on Hong Kong Island. If you’re in a rush though, feel free to splurge on the Airport Express train – about 10USD for a 25 minute ride to Central Station on Island side.

The best value (outside of the Star Ferry which is universally known as a tourist must-do) is the Island-side trolley that runs from Sheung Wan to Causeway Bay. For 2HKD, you get to go virtually the length of the island and see the city from a whole other perspective. Plop yourself down on a front seat upstairs and just enjoy the ride – it’ll take close to an hour with traffic, but you’re a tourist with time, aren’t you?

Capsule Spot: Manila, Philippines

2010-09-06T14:16:00.001-07:00

I’ve already waxed poetic on the joys of living in Manila, so I won’t rehash all of that here. In general, I’m a big fan of the lifestyle that I can live in Manila, but less a fan of the city itself. Pollution, intense heat, and terrible traffic are but a few of the joys of everyday Manila living. Yet, this is more than made up for by the amiable people, diversity of entertainment options, and affordable food. I’m not sure how great a place Manila is for tourists, but I think it’s a pretty decent place to live.

Things to See and Do

Pasig River | Overlooked and underused, the ferry on the Pasig is one of the cheapest and best ways to the city. For just thirty pesos one way, you can get a river-level view of slums, rich neighborhoods, and industrial areas that are rarely seen otherwise. You will likely not find a more peaceful and relaxing mode of transportation in all of Metro Manila. It’s a fast way to move from one section of the city to another also.

Fort Santiago | Perhaps the only real tourist attraction in Manila, Fort Santiago and the surrounding old city are worth visiting just to get a taste of the colonial Spanish influence on the country. The golf course in the middle of the historical fort is a bit disconcerting, and the ticket price is high relative to what you get to see at the Fort itself, so if you choose to forego the Fort and instead just wander around the small alleys and streets in the Intermuros district, I would not fault you.

The List

Chicken and rice is everywhere, but if you really want to try some great chicken, head over to Bugong on Valero in Salcedo Village, Makati. Cheap, tasty, and a hole in the wall – this place is great for roasted chicken. If you’re feeling more like fried chicken, done Filipino style, try Max’s, a Filipino institution. A bit pricier than most other places, you can still pick up a full plate of chicken, rice, and cole slaw for around five bucks. Find Max’s throughout the city.

Casa Armas offers tasty tapas and Filipino food at a reasonable price. It’s not cheap, but for what you get, it’s worth it. I didn’t have a chance to try it, but a friend swears by their lechon – “so tender, they chop it up for you with a plate.” Sign me up! I went to the location on Jupiter Street in Makati, but check around as they have at least two more locations in Metro Manila.

Get your shopping on… anywhere. However, I suggest heading to Greenbelt in Makati for the best selection and indoor air conditioning. You can also go to church at Greenbelt too if you just have to do some shopping on the Sabbath. Mall of Asia is a good second choice, but further afield and it doesn’t have as many good dining options. It does however have an ice-skating rink.

There is a ton of great live music in Manila, but many of the places take a bit of work to get to when traffic is heavy. I ended up sticking to Makati a lot, and I think Suguijo is a gem of a find for live music. Basically just a tiny house, lots of popular indie acts will give rollicking live performances here an up-close and personal musical experience.

World-wise Wisdom

One of the best ways to get around is via Jeepney – the crazy and colorful converted American jeeps that dominate Filipino roads. Get a little taste of Filipino culture as you clamber into the back, sit on bench seats, and help pass money to the driver. Fares start at seven pesos and can go as high as thirteen, depending on the distance traveled. That’s right, you might pay a quarter if you go really far.

There are plenty of spas around that offer quality pampering in a nice environment for fairly cheap prices by Western standards. However, those in the know often eschew going to a spa for the cheaper and more convenient option of having a masseuse come straight to your home. Expect to pay 300 to 350 pesos (around 7-8 dollars) for an hour long sweedish or shiatsu massage, and despite the shady sound of it, most companies are legit and don’t offer any “special services.” Ask around to make sure you get a reputable company. Splurge for a twin massage if you’re feeling extra tense – two masseuses at once, for just under 2x the price!

Arriving at Ninoy Aquino Airport at a decent non-traffic-y hour? Don't take the fixed price cab then. Get in a metered cab, and get in one at the DEPARTURES level. They are 1/2 to 1/3 of the price of the taxis that pick you up from the ARRIVALS hall. Just go upstairs and get in line with all of the Filipinos.

Capsule Spot: Kampala, Uganda

2010-09-01T14:19:00.000-07:00

I think the most striking thing about Uganda is how nice everyone seems to be. They are generally relaxed, smiling, and helpful. This doesn’t mean that Kampala doesn’t have its share of crime – you should still watch your back – but you it certainly is much safer and more accessible both day and night than many of the other major African cities (or so I’ve heard.) There is not too much to see in the way of tourist attractions, there is virtually no shopping, and things are not that cheap, but it is a nice place to whittle away a few laid-back days in between safaris or other more adventurous activities.

Things to See and Do

Old Taxi Park | I can be a jaded and grizzled veteran when it comes to unique sights in cities (people gush about Moroccan souks, but to me, they’re just markets with lots of alleys – been there done that!) so it surprises me when something impresses me. The Old Taxi Park in Kampala is unlike anything I’ve ever seen, and I’m pretty sure it’s unlike anything you’ve ever seen. Hundreds, maybe thousands of van taxis all in one place, with commerce throughout and surrounding it. This is one place you should definitely check out. Keep your valuables close, but then again, I never really felt threatened.

Raft the Nile | Apparently the Victoria Nile is one of the five best places to go rafting. I have no experience with it, but I can say that even with my fear of water, I had an absolute blast and didn’t really feel in danger at any point. Wide, deep, and warm, the Victoria Nile is the real deal when it comes to its rapids, but also a decent river to fall into when the going gets too rough. The site is a good hour and a half outside Kampala and your best bet is get a free transfer with a rafting company (check also for a free night of accommodation in Jinja from your rafting company if you don’t feel like rushing back to Kampala day of.) It’s not cheap – expect to pay between 95 to 125USD. The three best companies are Nile River Explorers, Adrift, and Nalubale.

The List

Kampala has a decent selection of different foods, with some of the best being Indian food. It doesn’t come terribly cheap, but it is tasty. Perhaps the most well regarded restaurant is Khana Khazana on Acacia Road in Kololo. Another good choice is Tandoori in Kisementi, also in Kololo, where you can order a spicy green pepper naan that is pretty unique.

If you’re more into sandwiches, then you’ll want to try Café Javas in Oasis Plaza next to Centenary Park. They’ve got great big sandwiches (try the chicken salad!) served with a generous heaping of chips for around 5-6 USD. Their sodas are also reasonably prices at 1000 Ugandan Shillings, or around 50 cents.

Need wi-fi? Go to Good African Coffee. The easiest location is probably at Lugogo Plaza on Jinja Road. The food here isn’t as good as it is in Javas, but the wi-fi is free, and they probably have the best coffee in all of Kampala.

World-wise Wisdom

Always check your bill. Ugandan restaurants can smell a newbie a mile away and will almost always try to rip you off somehow. Ten dollars for a bottle of water? “Oh, sorry, my mistake, it’s dark.” 9000 schillings in change becomes 900 schillings when it comes to your table? “Oops, they must have counted wrong, sorry.” Large and small beverages cost the exact same amount of money? “The computer only has one listing for that item, so they’re the same price.” Nothing is out-of-bounds. Just be vigilant, and feel free to stiff them on the tip – maybe then they’ll get the hint.

Taxis are the cheapest way to move around town. Short distances will cost 300 schillings, while most rides will cost 500 or 700, while long distances can cost 1000 or even 1500. Foreigners will almost always get overcharged, so feel free to bargain down one level – if they ask for 1000, tell them you’ll pay 700. If they ask for 500, give them 300.

During rush hour, avoid the traffic by taking a boda-boda (motorbike.) Look for someone who looks like they’ve been riding for a while, and then hang on for dear life. They cost more than a van taxi, but you’ll get there in a quarter of the time.

Capsule Spot: Botswana

2010-08-24T02:19:00.001-07:00

I have written before on the blog that Botswana may have been my favorite destination in all of Africa. Looking back, I believe this still holds true. The combination of incredible nature, high quality service and lodging, and good food make Botswana a really good place to go for an African experience. On the flip side, all of this comes at a cost, and a high one at that. Botswana is not cheap, and it is not easy to navigate – one reason that most people come on packaged tours. While I can never promote a packaged tour, I suppose Botswana is as good a place as any to take one. Just make sure that you try to patronize local-owned businesses (very hard) and contribute to the local economy – not just the foreign owned luxury resorts.

Things to See and Do

Okavango Delta | This is perhaps the single biggest reason to visit Botswana. The Okavango Delta is one of the only places in the world where a major river ends not in the ocean, but in a desert. When it does, it creates an inland delta larger than you can imagine, drawing wildlife from around the region and creating one of the most surreal landscapes in the world. At the very least, take a peaceful mokoro (wooden dugout canoe) ride on the river or in one of the chanels and pray that a hippo doesn’t break your boat in two. Better yet, if you have the money, take a flight into the Delta and stay in one of the many camps there for two to seven days and really get a feel for the place. Expect to pay at least 250USD a night, and upwards of 3000USD at the most insane but luxurious places. (Previously posted pictures here.)

Chobe River Cruise | On the border of Botswana and Namibia, the Chobe River is where Botswana’s three major Delta parks start. Take a three hour cruise on the river and see elephants, kudu, crocodiles, hippos, impalas, and all sorts of birdlife on the shores. Being on the river itself provides a welcome change of perspective from the traditional jeep-safari, and even if the animals are sparse, the cruise is still enjoyable – how can doing nothing while floating on a river with a setting sun ever be unenjoyable?

The List

Botswana has good beef. If you’re not a vegetarian, and you love hamburgers, I would seriously consider taking a detour towards Gweta and stopping at Planet Baobab to try one of their delectable burgers – potentially the best I’ve had in the past two years. The lodge itself is also pretty nice, and campsites are cheap and clean – both added bonuses.

The Chobe River Lodge has probably the best deal in town – if you have a tent. While rooms at this four-star hotel cost at least 100USD a night, bring your own tent and stay for just 10USD a person. Outdoor bathroom facilities are spotless, and on top of that, you get to use all of the common area facilities like bar and pool as a guest. And, if you’re lucky, you’ll wake up to the sound of hippos ambling through the campground.

It’s never easy to find good, reliable wi-fi while on the road, but here’s an unexpected spot: the Maun airport offers free wi-fi (although a bit slow) that is good enough to check your email and make onward bookings. Given that all flights into the Delta basically pass through this airport, it’s definitely something to keep in mind for the connection-starved.

World-wise Wisdom

Botswana is not cheap, and it is an incredibly difficult place to eat cheaply, especially in smaller towns like Kasune (where Chobe National Park starts.) One of the cheapest options is to go to a supermarket like Choppies and get something from their hot food section. Three dollars or so buys you a filling and surprisingly tasty meal.

Hitch-hiking is fairly common in the more remote parts of Botswana, and most drivers expect a payment equal to what a bus ticket might cost for a similar journey. Know how much you should pay, pay attention to safety and security, and then hitch away!

Capsule Spot: Dubai, U.A.E.

2010-08-15T12:37:00.000-07:00

Dubai is one of those rare places in the world that is uber-hyped, and actually lives up to or maybe even exceeds that hype when you finally get there. Superlatives are normal and necessary descriptors for a city that boasts the tallest building in the world, the most luxurious hotel in the world, a bunch of artificial islands arranged in what look like kiddie-completed doodles off the coast, and exorbitant prices. With a collection of stores and brands unrivaled in any part of the world I have been to, Dubai offers essentially something for everyone – it’s an interesting place to see, but don’t stay long unless you independently wealthy or on an expense account.

Things to See and Do

Atlantis | For a little taste of Las Vegas in Dubai, head out to the Palm Jumeriah and visit the Atlantis Hotel. Decorated with an insane collection of over-the-top colors and decorations of a lost underwater city, the hotel also features a huge aquarium, a fancy beach, and a full-on water park. Get a “reservation” for drinks at the outside beach bar in order to get outside and see the water.

Burj Khalifa | This is one of my regrets. The Burj Khalifa’s observation deck on the 124^th floor was closed when we were in Dubai, so we actually didn’t get to see it. However, despite not having experienced it myself, I think I’d still say this is a must-do on your itinerary. I’m a sucker for tall buildings though. If you do decide to go, get online and book your ticket in advance. You’ll save about 60 dollars this way, meaning your ticket will ‘only’ cost you forty.

The Malls | Take your pick between the Mall of Dubai and the Mall of the Emirates. One has a huge aquarium in the middle, the other has a ski slope. One has Lafayette, the other has Harvey Nichols. Both are littered with well-known brands from around the globe, and both are ginormous. My personal pick is probably the Mall of Dubai, just because it seems to have more food options, a better outdoor area, and is located right next to the Burj Khalifa.

The List

The only way to get into the Burj Al Arab (Dubai’s famous sail-shaped 7-star hotel) is to have an inside connection, be super rich and have a room there, or eat at one of the restaurants in the hotel. We chose the latter, and made reservations at the Skyview Restaurant on the 27^th floor of the hotel. It’s the cheapest option, but it still cost us a mint. At least we got some tasty cocktails and a really tasty and large 12 oz. hamburger (that cost fifty bucks.)

I am a huge fan of the Fairmont Dubai. It’s got great spa facilities, a wonderful rooftop pool, and luxurious rooms with good toiletries and services (including a free shoe shine!) It’s also located conveniently close to the airport and the Burj Khalifa, and when the metro station opens up outside, it will be even better. As with everything in Dubai, the Fairmont isn’t cheap, but google for a discount code and be surprised at how cheap five star luxury can be.

World-wise Wisdom

Can’t find easy-to-access free wi-fi? You’re not alone. It seems that most cafes offer wi-fi, but it’s not free. If you need to get online, but don’t want to pay, head over to the Mall of Dubai, where the entire honkin’ mall is a hot-spot. But be sure you register in advance and get a pin emailed to you because the only other way to do it is to have a local mobile phone number. Free wi-fi can also be had at the Borders bookstore in the Mall of the Emirates, no registration required. And, ironically, if you do make it to the Burj Al Arab, you’ll be tempted to pull out the notebook during dinner, because there’s free wi-fi here too.

One of the best places to see the Burj Khalifa is from the back of the Mall of Dubai, near the lake and the fountains. Head out to the bridge across the river towards the gold souk for great night shots of the Khalifa.

Capsule Spot

2010-08-15T12:35:00.000-07:00

I had some requests by friends to distill my travel-specific experiences down into mini-guides. I thought it was a good idea, to give some info that you might not find in a guide book, so I decided to do little capsules for different places I visited. I wasn't very diligent about writing these though, so it's pretty patchy.

Each capsule starts with a quick general reaction to the place, followed by three sections:
1. Things to See and Do - fairly self-explanatory, but these are places that I think are worth visiting. A lot of the places to see and do in various guidebooks are listed in order to be comprehensive, but often don't suggest what's best. I am always with an opinion. So I do. Hahha
2. The List - it would be better for a person who has lived in these places to put together a list of cool spots to hit up for food or massages or whatever, but you're not going to live there, and I only had a few days. But these places/things made an impression on me.
3. World-wise wisdom - some things are unavoidable when traveling. Like getting ripped off. But you can try to prevent it, and I include a few pieces of hard-won traveler's experience in this section.

Like I said, I didn't do many of these, but those that I did get done while on the trip, I'm planning on putting up periodically over the next couple weeks. Check back to find out more!

Visions of Oahu

2010-08-09T01:24:00.000-07:00

More pictures in my effort to catch up, this time from Oahu, Hawaii.

West side of Oahu

View of Kaneohe from Pali Lookout

Surfer at the North Shore

Hang Loose

View of Downtown Honolulu from Ala Moana

Lil' Surfer Dude at Makapu'U

Sunrise near Koko Head State Park

Sunrise at Waimanalo

Senor Frog's

The Sponsors, in Review

2010-08-06T18:29:00.001-07:00

I finally got around to updating my reviews of sponsor products. You can find the latest information here on the Sponsors page! I wanted to take a moment and say thanks again to all of the people who so generously provided products to me for the trip!

Meet the Lean and Mean Mr. Clif

2010-08-02T18:33:00.000-07:00

One of my loyal Twitter followers (okay, my only loyal Twitter follower, and let’s be honest, I’m pretty sure loyal means check once every few weeks here…) asked if I had any tips on how to cope with traveling for long periods of time without stopping. I’m actually not the ideal person to be giving tips like these, as my longest outing has only been 6 months. I have met plenty of people who have been on the road for a year or two, and they would likely be able to offer the best advice. Plus, every person travels differently – so there’s really no universal set of best practices here.

This Clif Bar (shown here with a "normal" shaped, homebody of a cousin from two perspectives, is slim and steely from 4 months of travel to over a dozen countries)might have more to say about long-term travel than me!

That being said, I figured that I’d try to distill some of the experiences I’ve had into a few ideas that I think are pretty useful. Here goes!

1. Pack appropriate – I remember I brought ridiculous amounts of stuff with me on my first backpacking trip. I had first aid kits, travel bed sheets, jackets for every potential climate. You learn quickly that you don’t touch like 40% of what you brought. You also don’t need to change clothes as much as you think. I have one friend who travels for months at a time with a single daypack. Her clothes? Two sets of underwear, a shirt or two, a bathing suit, a pair of tennis shoes and flip-flops. While it’s great to bring a ton of light gear, it’s even better just to bring gear that you’re going to use – for clothing, I try to do as much layering as possible if I’m going to places with a range of climates, packing things that can be multi-use.

2. Spoil yourself – That said, I am also a firm believer in reserving some of your precious cargo space for one or two items that are completely non-essential but will make you feel happy. It could be a nice piece of soap from home, a comfy pillow, or your favorite pajamas. When you’re on the road for a long time, things can get lonely and sort of sad – having something that you love and that can put a smile on your face, or something that makes you sleep better or relax is very important.

3. Spoil yourself TWO – I am also a firm believer in strategically spoiling yourself on the road (and have become more so the older I have gotten.) Whether it is a massage or a five star hotel or a really nice meal, I say you should budget and plan for some sanity-saving moments when traveling for long periods. Contrary to popular belief, traveling is actually quite tiring and demanding. Breaking up long stretches of hard travel with much-deserved self-pampering not only helps recharge those batteries, but also gives you something to push towards when you’re cursing yourself while standing on a crowded train for 12 hours.

4. Be flexible – The worst enemy of a long trip is rigid planning (that and continuous diarrhea anyway.) I think the best way for long-term travel is to have big milestones and general directions, but to be flexible in the details. Don’t be afraid to book a flight ticket out of a country for two months later, but don’t bother booking hotel rooms and transportation for the entire two months. Too many random things happen when on the road, and a rigid travel plan is just begging to be broken. Instead, know the direction you need to strike off in, know when you need to reach your destination, and then just let the winds take you where they might. If you find a great place where you’d like to stay for a few more days, you should be able to do so without stressing about re-arranging all the logistics of your trip. This will also help keep you sane over the long haul.

5. To compute or not? – This is something I struggle with a lot, as a blogger and an internet-addict. Bringing a computer with you on the road can yield a whole host of issues, including all those damn cables and adapters, the extra weight, issues of security while traveling, and the like. Weigh these things against how much benefit you will get from having your computer with you, and remember that to avoid getting it stolen or broke, you may have to carry it with you at all times. Depending on where you go, there may be long stretches of time where you won’t even touch your computer, or places where you won’t want to pull it out of your bag for security reasons. If you’re like me, and take tons of pictures, consider investing in alternative backup solutions like an external hard drive or more memory cards. Truth is, there are going to be places for you to get on the internet (especially if you’re going to be staying in hostels) even without your own computer.

There are of course probably tons of other pieces of learning that I’ve gained through years of being a frugal traveler, but I can’t think of many more right now. Again, everyone travels differently, so you’ll have to find a set of practices that suit you best. These are what I’ve come up with. Ah yes, one final note (and a new learning from this trip!):

Pack only a suit that you wouldn’t mind burning afterwards and one that doesn’t show wrinkles very easily. :)

Comments and tips from everyone else are definitely welcome! Do share your own tips and tricks!!

Understanding life in a cave

2010-07-19T23:45:00.000-07:00

It has been almost a month since I got home, and believe it or not, I have yet to see any of my friends here. In fact, I haven’t seen very many people period, besides family and a couple of buddies who have visited LA. You would imagine that after being gone for six months, the first thing I would want to do is catch up with old friends, to see people, call people, share stories, and find out what all has changed in their lives. In fact, this is usually what I am looking forward to in the days leading up to my return home from trips like this.

Yet you would be incorrect. In fact, for most of the last three weeks, the last thing I wanted to do talk to anyone. The slightly confusing truth is that in the days after my immediate return, the only thing I want to do is sit at home and play video games, catch up on television, or sit in front of my computer. Almost like an extended version of that decades-old stereotype of a typical man coming home from a long day of work, grabbing a beer, propping his feet up on the coffee table, and settling into his couch-mark to vegetate in front of the pretty pictures flashing across his television – except my long day at work was a super-extended backpacking trip around the world.

I’ve taken to calling this my post-travel, anti-social, hide-in-a-cave period. It is a phenomenon that has actually been going on for quite some time but that I’ve only recently come to identify. Essentially, each time I get back to the US, I end up hiding out in my parents’ house for at least a week, if not two, and do not even have the social energy to talk to people on the phone. In essence, I become a hermit. This time though has lasted longer than any time before it. After three weeks, I am just barely starting to feel the urge to be social again. I have no scientific proof, but I think that just as the time required to recover from jetlag is correlated with the size of the time difference (most things I have read say it is typically one day per hour change), my cave period is also relative to the length of the trip. Although I have traveled a lot in my life, I have never actually traveled continuously for longer than 3 months before this trip. Thus, a three week cave period is surprising even for me.

Many of my friends wonder why I have a cave period at all. I actually don’t really know. It’s always just existed for me, and I haven’t given much thought to it while in the cave (time is much better spent vegetating or stuffing my face with chips during this period.) In the interest of doing things differently for this project though, I decided to force myself to think about my cave period – from the relative safety of my comfortable full-length sofa of course. Before, I thought of it as an extension of my jetlag; being tired and off schedule, it was difficult to even talk to people, let alone meet up with people. This time though, with the aid of my JetZone (buy it here!), I had very little jetlag, but I still stayed in my cave. Other times I thought it might be my general laziness combined to re-adjusting to a car-based lifestyle that dominates in LA – yet this wouldn’t explain my aversion to talking on the phone.

No, after the forced introspection of this trip, I think I’m going with an explanation that my sister’s fiancé keyed me into – that of a necessary period away from all things social to make up for how social I usually have to be when traveling on my own. It makes a lot of sense, especially when taken in conjunction with my personality – naturally rather introverted (I swear!) Whether or not I’m actually traveling on my own, the very fact that I’m on the road generally necessitates a heightened level of social interaction. Random strangers on a train, talkative neighbors on a plane, asking for help or directions, talking to waiters or waitresses, making friends with taxi drivers – all of it requires you to be super-social. Over a period of months, this can become rather draining. For me, I think that the self-imposed cave period after a trip is a way to compensate for this, a way to recover my internal store of energy for socializing. This is why I go into hiding with or without jetlag, I avoid talking even on the phone, and I bury myself in highly solitary tasks like winning championships with my fake Spanish football team or finishing Lost.

The good thing about the cave period though, is that I eventually do come out of it, and when I do, I’m ready to meet with all of my friends, share stories, and enjoy the sun outside. I am glad to report that I am finally crawling out of my metaphorical cave and into the (wonderfully refreshing and energizing) sunshine. So, while I am working hard to make sure that re-entering society does not prevent me from working on Backpacking in a Suit or from winning the occasional football game on my PS2, it does mean that you’re much more likely to find me in a Starbucks near you. If you do, come on over and say “hi!” I promise to be social.

Visions of Zambia

2010-07-06T00:01:00.000-07:00

Rest stop on the highway to Livingstone

Southern Zambia landscape, along the highway

A pair of boys biking along the road

A woman in Lusaka

Street corner on Cairo Raod in Lusaka

Ominous clouds in the evening sky

Victoria Falls

Victoria Falls, with mist obscuring part of the view