Bagus Surf

Old Man SUP

Had to get in the water this morning even though it was windy and howling. At least there was no one in the water. Headed out to Old Man's for a quick couple of waves and that was enough to end the jones. Nothing special, but getting wet on a beautiful day in paradise is always amazing. I'm also posting my SUP sessions on my buddy Evan's site at standuppaddlesurf.net

Technorati Tags: standup, sup, waves, surfing, surf, oahu, hawaii

Long Hiatus

I've been dry for a long time. Did get in this week for two sessions. Yesterday headed out to Queens on my 9'8" Bing for a really fun morning of loggin and hanging fives. Felt great to get back on the longboard and have a really fun time. Lots of old faces saying hi and wondering where I have been. This morning I braved the winds and took out my SUP for another session at Queens and wowzers.. did I have fun. Lots of long walls, noserides and fun cutbacks with the paddle. Big smile on my face as I get ready to hop on another plane today. Hope you are all stoked! I am also writing on another blog now at StandupPaddleSurf.net

Technorati Tags: surfing, surf, oahu, hawaii, waves, sup

Long dry spell

A south finally arrived this past week and I managed to get a couple days of surf fun. My Black Knight was in the shop, so broke out the 6'0" KG twin fin. Had a blast at Publics with the boys. Nothing super special, but good to get wet and to carve a couple open faces (when no one was dropping in on me). Hope you all got some!

Technorati Tags: surf, surfing, hawaii, oahu, waves, SUP

Slow blog

You may have noticed a very slow blogging season this summer... well, it has been one of the worst summer of surf to hit Hawaii in many many years. Nothing really memorable this summer.. a couple of swells but rarely the wow, that was amazing surf. I have also been on the road a bunch. In Thailand for my grandpa's funeral and then work on the mainland. Hopefully we'll have something come through town later this month, otherwise it is on to winter and drives to da country. Hope you are getting a clean barrel somewhere.

Technorati Tags: surf, surfing, waves, hawaii, standup, sup

Monster South Arriving

About time we get out first big swell of the summer season. Went out this morning to Queens on the SUP and it was already shoulder high. Super crowded with people just not even bothering to look. I was blocked on numerous waves and then total drop-ins. With the big SUP board, I always try to be safe, but sometimes with my paddle and big ass standup board I think about just ramming some of those turds. Ok.. I'm calm now. Aloha.

Went bowling

Quick 45 min sesh this morning before taking mom to the airport. Swell definitely is still here with some nice almost head high sets rolling through bowls. Took Killa out this morning for his first sesh at the famed spot. Good times. Two nice rights for me, still kooking out on the shortboard, but working on it.

Technorati Tags: waves, surf, surfing, oahu, hawaii, waves, sup

Life is good

Two surf days in a row... oh yeh! Headed out early yesterday with Robertitoe on the Miller 9'3" and walked across to Threes. A couple nice waves and then began the surf/paddle back to our car. Caught waves all the way across paradise, pops, canoes, queens and then in at the wall. It was an A+ day. Clear skies, slight breeze, perfect water and a little swell. Life does not get better than that.

Today went for a quick 1 hour surf at Queens. Crazy day at work, but had to get wet. Swell is still here.. a bit of a short period, but when they double up, it is super fun. Get out and surf! Standup surfer guy in the lineup was killing it.

Technorati Tags: surf, surfing, hawaii, oahu, waves, sup, standup

Easy come quick to go

Well the swell arrived to lots of fanfare and then left just as fast. By Thurs the sized had dropped considerably as I went out to Tongs for a quick paddle. A couple little thumpers on my 6'6" Rawson swallow tail, but that's about it. Seems like there is going to be a lull for the next couple of days which means back out on my SUP standup surf! No worries.. good times always paddling around and seeing the sites and sounds.

Curren's daughter surfing sandspit
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Curren in Puerto
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Technorati Tags: surf, surfing, oahu, hawaii, waves, sup

Swell arrived!

Nice south swell arrived last night. Headed out to Aina's this morning with Mr. Fox and RobRoy. Sideshore trades came in around 7:30 a.m but decent pulse in the water with 3-5 wave sets. Out on the 9'4" Miller single fin.. probably would have been happy on a fish or shorter board today. Good fun. Tired arms. I need to get in shape.

Technorati Tags: waves, oahu, hawaii, surf, surfing, sup

SUP Crazy

Been standup surfing so much, can hardly remember how to surf prone anymore. Nice couple of days with a small south swell running and good clean conditions. Headed out Friday after work at Old Man's and also Sat morning across to Pops/Canoes/Queens for a paddle and surf session. Lots of good long rides on the SUP and starting to understand how to use the paddle as an extension of the body. It is getting fun... probably until I get too confident and try a OH wave and get pummeled. Until them keep surfing! Looks like kine small swell in town all week.

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Triple Play

Three surf sessions in two days. A new record for 2007. Headed out Sat morning early for a quick paddle at queens. Fun little waves on the 9'4" Miller. Had a nice chat with some old faces and managed a couple of waves to myself.. otherwise all party waves. Then headed out with Mr. Green for a standup sesssion in the typhoon winds at Old Man's. Great waves all around and a couple really fun rides.. getting the hang of SUP much more. This morning went out for a 3 hour session with Mr. Green and Meebs. Got choke waves and starting to work on the layback roundhouse and other moves.. still got plenty swell in the water and solid chest high sets rolling in. Buggered, but happy.

Technorati Tags: waves, hawaii, oahu, surf, surfing, sup

Bagus Surf Chat Room

When there's no surf, there's surf talk!

Windy at Threes

So the south swell never arrived at all this week. Looks like it missed us to the East and is now macking on Baja/Mexico/Central America. Bummer... all that anticipation and nothing to show for it. I am sure productivity in Honolulu dropped a bit as everyone in town was anticipating 6'-8' with the high surf advisory. I played it conservative and worked all day yesterday and took a late afternoon drive by PP to see high tide and hundreds of people in the water from Kewalo to magic island. I passed and ended up at Old Man's around 6 pm for a quick paddle out on the fish to get wet. I watched George on his Standup ripping it and then realized that he is a friend of a friend. Had a beer with them at the Outrigger before heading home.

This morning headed out for a quick surf at Three's on the new Miller. Met Mr. Fox out there. Messy, windy and junky. A couple of fun waves, but definitely nothing special. Although surfing is better than sitting in the office anyday!

If I don't keep surfing I'll look like this.... I only wish I could get slotted this well.

Technorati Tags: surf, surfing, standup, oahu, hawaii, waves, sup

What's SUP?

Had a trifecta standup surf this weekend. Went out three times over three days. Felt good to get some exercise again. Met up with Mark who got himself a brand new board and paddle. Hung out at Old Man's learning to surf the boards. Finally watched a guy spin his board rather than turn it by back paddling on one side then taking two strong paddles on the other side. Nifty. Figuring out how to catch and ride waves again. Even managed to use my paddle to plane and keep me standing when I was going to fall backwards one time. So what have I learned so far about standup surfing?

1) Always keep your head up and eyes looking forward to the horizon. Helps keep balance and there's no need to stare at your feet.

2) Use the paddle as a third leg. It is amazing how many times you can recover just by paddling and keeping movement going forward.

3) Back straight, body upright and short strong strokes, not long pulls on the paddle.

4) Get to the nose when catching a wave to keep the board down on the water and not flying off.

Technorati Tags: standup, surfing, sup, oahu, hawaii, waves

Windy

The winds are howling with a NS swell in town. Not much to do except work. Did get out this weekend for a quick surf with Rob at Courts on Sat. Nice little south swell in town and plenty of aloha in the water. My Miller pintail was just eating up the rights and we surfed until my arms almost fell off. Good to finally get wet again.

teahupoo

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Technorati Tags: surf, surfing, oahu, hawaii, waves, sup