A Bookkeepers Balkan Update

Brass Band

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 06:41:38 PDT

This statue piece was one of my absolute favorites in Skopje.... always sure to inspire a joyful smile on my face! That is until one by one each piece dissappeared! It was so sad to see the lone trumpetman playing without his buddies... little old ladies would pass by and shake their head and tsk at the shame of the loss.... then just a few months later all that was left was the concrete slab. =(

I think the one I missed the most was the guy in front with the big puffy cheaks blowing with all his might... kind of reminded me of the guy in the picture below from a local concert of the Philharmonic orchestra (guest musicians pictured):

Well, in the past few months several new statues have been appearing all over Skopje (pics and blogs to come).... and so imagine my joy to see that they replaced my favorite statue with the same basic "Brass Band." It's definitely not exactly the same, but that's OK, because like an old friend it's good to see it and it always brings a smile to my face when I pass by. =)

Bugs o Buggin'

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 06:28:24 PDT

This was the site that welcomed us after one worship team practice last month, when it was still quite warm and muggy outside.... They were everywhere and you just couldn't slap them away... There's a reason they're called "bugs"! Funny thing is that just 1/2 mile away and 15 minutes later at my home the street lamps were clear of these bugs... barely any at all... I'm thinking that this phenomenon must be related to proximity to the city park.... Who knows! I'm just glad that the seasons have changed and so no more bug 'o buggin!

A New Decade & "Revealing" Trip to the Embassy

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Tue, 06 Oct 2009 04:25:56 PDT

When my brother saw the picture in my passport he teased me mercilessly! "Ha ha, Carol! You're stuck with THAT for 10 years! Ha ha ha!" Well, yesterday that passport was nostalgically placed in a drawer and a new decade begun, though not without first making an adventurous... and... er.... revealing trip to the US Embassy.

There's a new US Embassy here in Skopje and boy is the security tight! On my last trip there to submit my passport renewal application I learned that bringing less is more. So, this time I thought I was so clever and full of fore-thought as I left my purse in the car and walked up to the security checkpoint carrying only my keys and passport.

Well..... as you will see, it turned out that I was not as clever as I'd fashioned myself to be.... as I completely didn't pay attention to what I was wearing and how it would affect getting through security....

You see, I was wearing boots for the first time this season.... and the metal "fashionable" strip on the bottom inevitably tripped the alarm... "Beep!" To which I then had to unzip them.... and reveal the fact that not only was I wearing unfashionable white ankle socks, but also that... er... my legs were in need of shaving!

But even more embarrassing was that I was wearing a belt! Again, for the FIRST TIME this season.... So I'm having to... er... discretely put my hands under my shirt and remove the belt.... through the scanner it goes... then on the other side I get to put it back on. Can I just say that it's REALLY disconcerting to stand there and re-zip up boots over hairy legs and then re-loop and buckle a belt whilst a couple of (really cute, btw) guards watch my every move??

The whole time I just kept laughing to myself and my "cleverness." Mental note: next time go beltless and wear slip-on shoes... oh, and SHAVE YOUR LEGS! I must say, though, that the guys were really nice and courteous and I know that they were just doing their job. =)

Perhaps the funniest part, though, was that for the first time in my life I was asked to put my glasses through the scanner... so I was pretty much blind through all of the above!

After my "revealing" trip I picked up my new passport and what was left of my "clever" pride and blushed my way past the cute guards and headed home. =)

The upside of all this? My new passport is really sweet... especially love all the pics and quotes. Oh, and I'm pretty sure that even my brother would approve of the picture. Thus I begin a new decade..... and did I mention that I'm turning 40 soon? A new decade in more ways that one! lol.

Gorilla in our Midst!... Say What?!?!

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Thu, 17 Sep 2009 15:54:02 PDT

Driving to work the other morning I nearly had a car accident at this intersection as I and several other drivers and some pedestrians were seriously distracted (and quite a bit amused) at this site! I just couldn't believe there was a mangled gorrilla on the side of the road and so took a double take (or two)! Ironically, he's only a block from the City Zoo. Buster (ya, I had to name him) was only there for one day, but it sure was a sight to see (and, YES, I just had to pull over, park and get out my camera). Just another day here in the Balkans! =)

Happy September

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Thu, 17 Sep 2009 15:32:22 PDT

This is a happy picture: the balloons swirling everywhere in various colors, the wide-open mouth of surprise, delighted flapping arms and wind-tossed hair. I see so much of myself in this picture right now.... but it's more like, "Look at all those things I've got in the air with arms flapping trying to catch hold of them!" Happy September!

Well, OK, it's not so bleak as that. ;) Though it is a good representation of the mix of fun and stress that has been my life for the last three months. The "blog-balloon" was just one of the "delights" that I let fly away in favor of the many other things that have taken priority.

The work balloons: When I got back from the US I had just over two weeks to not only catch up on 2 months of bookkeeping and to prepare for fiscal year-end and the splitting up of the books into two autonomous sets... I had to pack up and move the office. With the move to a new place comes all the little details that aren't so big in themselves, but simply suck your time away like a quickly deflating balloon.

Happy September, though, in that I'm caught up, moved, set-up (mostly), completed with the bookkeeping gymnastics and can finally hunker down and get back to "normal" and re-frying some beans (aka. bookkeeping).

There have been many other balloons swirling around in my life these past few months, some stressful, some sad, but also some joyful and pure delight. Now that some of the extra-swirly balloons from summer have been let go (aka. finished tasks/responsibilities), the picture for me is becoming once more a happy one instead of a stressful one. That is the mix that I see in that picture above entitled, "Среќен Септембри!" (Happy September!)

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And just in case I haven't already hacked this analogy to death, there is one more that the picture evokes, and it's related to the weather and seasons:

With September came the turning of leaves, the chilly breezes while the hint of summer heat inexplicably remains in the air, the sweet smell of roasting peppers and the SHOCK of the weather changing from Summer to Fall in a DAY (one Saturday afternoon it was 100+, by that evening it was 50 and hasn't really gotten above 80 since)....

The days of summer floating away like those colorful balloons..... Happy September!

OK enough with with analogies! lol. Frankly, I'm glad it's September with the busyness of summer behind me and the cool and more "normal" days of Fall ahead of me. =)

I'd Rather be Shoveling Snow

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Tue, 07 Jul 2009 04:05:11 PDT

As I'm huddled in the new office with no air-conditioning, lamenting the Skopje summer heat (and the sweat that comes with it), I can't help but dream of March in Wyoming and being snowed in for two days by "the blizzard of the season." [The picture below was taken at 5am after the snow had been blowing strongly and horizontally for 14 hours already!]

Oh it was so nice! Nestled in a warm log house with my drukarki (closest friends), cooking chili and cornbread, figuring out a puzzle, swooning over Colin Firth in Pride and Prejudice and laughing hysterically at Nacho Libre taking off on his scooter. We also went out to play in the snow... yes, in the blizzard... we can only imagine the neighbors looking at us and collectively shaking their heads at our stupidity and muttering, "city folk."

Being snowed in was not without it's challenges, though. The septic system backed up, but we were able to fix it by finding... er... the poor little mice family that had given their lives to clog it up in the first place. Also, a day after the storm while rushing outside to catch the snowplow before it bypassed our driveway... Whoop! Slip! Clunk! My foot slipped on the steps and Smack! went my back onto the wooden planks. I was up in moments, though, because if we didn't catch him to plow our driveway we'd be locked in for even longer. The driver kindly plowed our driveway and my back turned out to be no worse for the wear. =)
Ah! Good times were those spent with my friends on that road trip to Wyoming.

Sigh... the landlord just stopped by and snapped me back from my daydreaming of cooler days. The phone guys are here to install our landline. It's great to have the landline, but honestly, I'd rather be shoveling snow right now. =)

Walking to Work -- the unintended circuitous route

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Mon, 06 Jul 2009 09:59:26 PDT

This morning I headed out into the muggy warm morning with no particular route planned, just that I'd head in the general direction of the new office and then see what I'd find. What I found was that I'd stumbled upon an area of town I'd never been in before. Honestly, it was quite shocking and a little disorienting! Here less than 1/2 mile from my place are some streets I'd never explored before.

At one point I was almost convinced I was lost... and I found I wasn't the only one either as I passed an older gentleman with hand on chin looking from building to street with a confused look that must have mirrored my own. We joined into an unspoken pact as we determinedly put one foot in front of the other looking for the glavna ulitsa (main street). Eventually he found another older gentleman who was obviously an old friend who pointed him in the right direction... and I surreptitiously followed! =)

Back out on the main street I was dismayed to find that I'd essentially been walking in a zig-zag pattern that zagged more than zigged and ended up parallel to where I needed to be. And here I thought I was walking on a diagonal line! Oh well. I found some new places, fun graffiti and interesting nooks and cranny's that deserve further exploration. But I decided to leave that for another day and purchased some bananas and peaches (amazing, btw, as they are in season) and walked the remaining five minutes to the office.

In the end, what should have been just a 20 minute walk turned out to be almost an hour instead. LOL. Gotta love the self-guided tours.

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I didn't have my camera handy to take a pick of the new and interesting graffiti, so the one up top is from last years GCF walk.
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Yes, it's the start of the new budget year and so I'm back on my feet and walking to work. It helps, though, that the new office is half the distance of the previous one. =)

Yesterday's News

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Thu, 02 Jul 2009 12:16:49 PDT

When I went to the corner store to ask for "yesterday's news" so that I could use them to pack up the more fragile things in the office, I'd not realized what "day" that would have been. As it was, the papers they gave me included several stories covering the deaths of Farah Fawcett and Michael Jackson. I must confess, it seemed a bit wrong to use these papers... but as I needed to pack up, pack up I did.

And as each page was wrapped around cups, plates, pictures and other items in the office, I reminisced about the many good memories I have from high school for which Jackson's music was the soundtrack... or the many "mysteries" my friends and I (as "Jill") solved when we were 8 and pretending to be the "New Charlies Angels."

Presenting..... A Random Sight in Skopje!

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Mon, 29 Jun 2009 12:23:59 PDT

The other night a colleague/friend and I headed down towards the river for dinner. Upon entering the square we were greeted by a sight of true randomness: A performance curtain set up at the base of the Old Stone Bridge. No signs or anything indicated what on earth it was there for besides just being a testament to the occasional and always entertaining randomness that comes with living in the Balkans. =)

Thoroughly enjoyed the peek-a-boo view of the square from the bridge perspective. As there's many new art statues around town maybe this is related? Who knows. ;)

Shalakin My Head

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Mon, 29 Jun 2009 12:00:28 PDT

Went to the store tonight to buy some hairspray... well, I ended up asking for whipped cream for my hair instead! You see, the word for hairspray is "Laq" and the way I remember the word is to think about shaLAQ'n my head... but then if you accidentally shorten that word (like I did tonight) you end up asking for "shlak" (шлаг) which is the word for whipped cream. So that's how I ended up asking for whipped cream for my head!

Gotta love language bloopers! They are pure entertainment (especially for my local friends). =)

Moving, Chaos and My Disorganization...

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Fri, 26 Jun 2009 08:01:29 PDT

Since I was 10 years old I have packed up and moved somewhere every 1-2 years. There was only one stretch of time when I was able to stay put for 5 years... This moving trend continues to be a major element in my life...

The field office moves on MONDAY and so right now I'm in my office and surrounded by Chaos and disorganization: stacks of filled boxes, binders, drawers pulled out of cabinets, computers and equipment unplugged and awaiting a box or the movers steady hands. All this while trying to catch up on bookkeeping, prepare for fiscal year-end and a big bookkeeping change for the team....

Nothing like getting back from the US two weeks ago and having to hit the ground at an all at sprint! Oui....

Have I mentioned before that I don't enjoy packing or moving?? As of this moment I feel so unready--Monday's coming way too soon! And because I'm just back from the US and playing catch-up, I've not been able to pack like I prefer... instead it's, well, unorganized chaos! =( I'm also finding that we're short in the number of boxes needed and.... can you tell I don't enjoy things like this??

Having moved so much in the last 30 years (ie. apartments, homes, offices, cities, states, countries....) I don't enjoy change and can get quite stressed about it. (I know, shocking for a "bean-counter" lol!) Add to that all the other things on my plate right now and.... well, I guess you could say I could use the prayer. =) Even amid the chaos, though, I can see how God is working to pull the details together and so He is my rock in the middle of all this. :) He will provide, I know. :) He always does. =)

Thank you for praying.

Meeting Friends at Enriko's

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Thu, 25 Jun 2009 01:25:50 PDT

It's hard to believe I've been back in country for only 2 weeks... my time in the US seems so long ago already. One of the things I missed while in the US was meeting friends for coffee or breakfast/lunch at a little place called "Eriko's." It's tucked away in the Leptokarija shopping center, around the corner from "Gringos" (lol) and on the opposite end from Tutunska.

For you Californians, I'm sure this name makes you imagine all sorts of Mexican cuisine. Sorry, this restaurant, though it's decor and menus boast African/tribal themes, the food is all Italian... Macedonian-style. :)

The atmosphere is quaint and inviting with seating both indoors and outdoors and the servers always polite and helpful. The food... well, let's just say that they make the BEST pepperoni pizza on the PLANET! (No, I'm not exaggerating.) Not too much sauce or cheese, lots of real pepperoni and the most amazing crust ever.

Other favorites include what's called the "Enriko Breakfast" and is the perfect blend of flavors; the fruit salad that's always changing according to the season, but always flavorful; and rich coffee that always comes with a small piece of homemade chocolate. I've never tried their pastas, but as the pasta itself looks like it's made from scratch I imagine it's great too!

The best thing about Enriko's, though, is to enjoy this atmosphere and meals with friends. I've had the pleasure of going a couple times now with two different friends. One friend & colleague and I had a "girls days" that consisted of a trip to our favorite hair-stylist and then heading out to lunch. We enjoyed a great time catching up on each others lives and continuing to build on the friendship. The other friend is a relatively new one. I'd met her just before I went to the US and this was out first day hanging out since I got back. Enriko's was again a great place to go and hang out and chat, while enjoying some of the best food Skopje has to offer. =)

It's great to be back in Mac!

[My apologies for how much like a commercial this sounds! That was so not intentional!]

Billboard... of Death!

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Sun, 21 Jun 2009 06:00:19 PDT

Sometimes a billboard is so striking that I just can't resist taking a picture and sharing it. This one, complete with "death" holding not only the sickle but a checkered finish-line flag, is no exception. The message?

"Drive rashly, arrive prematurely!"

Wow, that makes for quite the billboard statement as well as a comment on driving in Skopje. Just maybe defensive driving is in our future, then, rather than offensive. That'd be a nice change. =)

Poppin' for Shampoo & Toast

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Sat, 20 Jun 2009 07:50:02 PDT

Pop! Bang! The sound of sporadic popping of balloons and a crowd filled Ramstore's entry way this morning. There was a lot of popping going on, but it'd never occurred to me that it was on purpose. :)

It's Saturday and normally the day for different promotions: from chocolate and cheese to vita-drink mixes and dishwashing soap. Normally, I just walk on by, but today there was an announcement over the store speakers that if you spent over a certain amount of money you could enter a contest by bringing your receipt to the main entrance. Ah, I thought, the balloons... but as I didn't understand everything being said I'd no clue as to what the contest was and was curious to find out.

I thought perhaps we'd have to fill out a form and submit it for a drawing or something. Nope, this was infinitely better: you get to chose an orange, green or white balloon. Then a girl marks your receipt and then grabs the balloon and a pin and POP! The balloon explodes and a folded piece of paper flies out (or across the room, or hits someone in the head) that tells you what you've won! Ha ha! What fun!... though I'd no idea how the gals didn't jump like I did every time they skewered a balloon. ;)

For my balloon-poppin fun I won some shampoo, soap and a coupon for a free toast at Twiggy's. =)

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For those who are thinking, "Gee, she won a piece of toasted bread... yipee...," it's actually much much better than that. Here in Macedonia "тост" is actually more like a grilled cheese sandwich with lunch meat ham and optional mushrooms, ketchup, mayonnaise and, of course, oregano.

Customs and Lines

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Fri, 19 Jun 2009 14:31:25 PDT

You see them, first time travelers, disheveled, wrinkled and looking as wide-eyed as a deer in headlights while trying to negotiate their way through immigration, aka. Customs. Many times I've wished they'd actually hand out a list of "Customs" for these newbie visitors if only to ease their nervousness.

Last week while waiting in the "Foreign Residents" line at the airport, I reflected back to when I myself was one of those newbies. It was 2001, just a year after the crisis in Kosovo and I was here with a short term group to help with humanitarian aid and teaching English. We'd been traveling for about 36 hours, which included an overnight in the Zurich airport, and arrived tired and very hot as it was 100+ degrees outside.

As we stood in the customs line, not really sure if we'd picked the right one, I felt as if I'd followed the rabbit down the hole into wonderland... or rather, "where am I again" land". Everyone around spoke a different language, there were strange sights, smells and, well, everything was different... I did mention this was my first time in Eastern Europe, right?

Anyways, what got me thinking about all this last week was due to the EXTRA TIME I had to wait and wait and wait in the customs line... and how 8 years ago when waiting in this same line I unwittingly started a tradition that continues to this day: I pick the wrong line and always seem to be one of the LAST FOUR people on the plane to be processed. Always. It's like Murphy's Law or something.

Yes.... I am writing a blog on this.... I claim sleep-deprivation and jet-lag! ;)

It never fails... each time I return to Skopje I end up picking the wrong line at customs... this time I thought I'd picked a good one as it was moving quickly and there were at least 30 people behind me. I thought, "Yeah, this looks great! I just may break the vicious cycle of wrong-line-picking."

Well, no sooner had I thought that than I noticed a group of "foreigners" (aka non-locals) being given the VIP treatment and being escorted to the front of MY LINE! (The people were arriving for some special event happening that was sponsored by the Ministry of Culture or something.) When all is said and done, I was again one of the last people to make it through customs. Even the 30 or so people behind me managed to maneuver to another line. :(

The upside of all this, though, was that due to the little green ribbon I tied to each of my pieces of luggage, an airport worker had removed each of my suitcases from the baggage claim belt and stacked them neatly on a cart! So when I got through customs (and walked by the table with the Swine Flu hand-outs) my luggage was ready to go! So, no complaints about waiting this time.

Besides, getting in the wrong line almost seems nostalgic at this point anyways. ;) My own personal Macedonian-entry-custom, I supposed one could say.

*******

Note: Some may wonder about me using this image again.... well, it's become a fond image for me to use with anything refering to waiting in line. So, as one tradition/custom continues, so does another. ;)

Early Morning Sounds

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Fri, 12 Jun 2009 23:12:24 PDT

BBVVVRRRRR.... the baritone rumble of a biplane flying low over the city intrudes into my dream giving sound effect to some WWII drama before waking me up... sleepily I rub my eyes and assess the situation.. "Oh, they're just spraying for mosquitoes," I acknowledge before dropping my head back on the pillow, turning over and going back to a now dreamless sleep.*

The first time I heard this sound, back, oh, in 2003, I lept from bed to see what was going on (camera in-hand, surprise surprise). Some 6 years later, though, and that BBBVVVRRRR rumble has just become one of the normal early morning sounds to mix with the pre-dawn 4:30am "Call to Prayer" and the subsequent church bells every hour on the hour... oh, and don't forget the cooing of the ever-present pigeons determined to make a home of the air conditioner unit on my balcony. =)

Gotta love the early AM in Skopje.... AND, in a nod to yesterday's post, I actually was up for it this morning (well, eventually). lol.

*(Yes, they do spray for mosquitoes each summer.... perhaps it's a good thing not to be up and about with windows open on those mornings.....)

A Little Trip

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Fri, 12 Jun 2009 04:21:21 PDT

Sleep deprivation has been my friend, my constant companion, since returning from the US this week. I find myself wide awake at 2am, at times sleeping in until 2pm, then wanting to go to bed at 5pm! Then when I am awake it's like I'm sleep-walking in some sort of strange fog. Oui! Gotta love jet-lag!

This morning I was up at a somewhat normal time (9am) and so after sitting with some java and QT for a while, I decided to set out on my first real adventure back into life in Skopje. Yes, I went shopping!

Walking out the door I was immediately struck by all sounds and fragrances of the city: car horns, conversations of passersby, fragrant trees (like honeysuckle), exhaust, fresh bread... I could go on and on... but it all combined to evoke the fond memories of Skopje and a sigh of joy to be back here. :)

As I walked to the store I also took in just how much had changed in three months: one store out of business, three new ones, a building almost completed and a cafe that has completely renovated (for the 2nd time in as many years).

In the store things had changed as well. Whole aisles have been rearranged and not many things were in the same places I remembered them. At least the produce department gives you plastic bags again for collecting fruit (the paper ones, while green, were not quite user-friendly). I also found freezer bags--a bonus find I must say!

After negotiating my way around the store my cart was a bit full (mostly veggies and cleaning supplies... the basics, really)... so I decided to catch a cab home. Well, while I was waiting, the sleepiness of jet-lag was starting to hit and so I wasn't really paying attention. Next thing I know my shopping cart had rolled off the curb and splattered my bags and their contents all over the pavement!

As I righted the cart and re-packed up the groceries, I chuckled at myself and the funniness of the whole thing and then vowed to take a nap when I got home... Sleep deprivation, though, made for a fun trip and I am convinced it's why it seems so strange for me to be back. lol

Culture Shock... er... adjustment to the US

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Thu, 26 Mar 2009 18:36:15 PDT

Aha! And you thought I'd dropped off the face of the earth! ;) Actually, I've been adjusting to life back in the US and enjoying some wonderful time with family, friends and my church. I "got off the boat" so-to-speak three weeks ago today and each of those weeks was full of things to get used to again (or be excited to have access to):

wall-to-wall carpet!
kitchen islands!
green green well-manicured lawns
lots and lots of walking trails and amazing parks
press and seal! (what an amazing invention!)
ziplocks-a-plenty
sidewalks that you can actually walk on
no parking on sidewalks -- the car must be in the gutter with not even a tire sneaking up on the sidewalk
no yellow light to let you know the green light is coming
wide-open spaces... aka "big sky", rolling hills, cows and wild horses
public restrooms don't have squatties, but do have TP and soap
having to drive to the store 2-4 miles away rather than just walking 10-feet out the front door
salad spinners
California golden poppies! (though I still love the red ones in the Balkans)
prices! things are soo expensive...
too many choices of everything I didn't know I needed!
pepper jack and cheddar!
Chipotle Tabasco sauce (really, chipotle anything!)
gas at $2.20 a gallon (intead of $8!!)
big wide-open parking lots and many many places to park!
defensive driving rather than offensive
pedestrians have right-of-way
being able to understand all conversations around me as I walk in a store, down the street, or sit in a restaurant
wild turkey crossings

OK, that's enough for now. There are a lot more, but perhaps I'll save them for a later blog. :) As I am in California now my blog will take on a distinct California flavor (with a few other states thrown in for extra seasoning), though I'll still try to connect it to live in the Balkans in some manner. Either way, I hope you enjoy this change of pace (like I am).

Carolyn from California

Transitions, Cultural Stress & Being a Foreigner

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Wed, 04 Mar 2009 14:14:55 PST

In my last blog I ended with the musing, "Am I feeling more Macedonian or American today?" Frankly, it's an especially relevant question for me right now as I'm just a day away from getting on a plane heading to the US. I'm sitting here surrounded by packing, going over the last-day checklist of bookkeeping, backups, goodbyes, packing, cleaning..... and trying to wrap my head around the fact that I'll be in my hometown tomorrow night. Just about 36 hours from now.

Back in the day overseas travel meant spending a month on a ship, which gave a very clear buffer in leaving your old culture, language, family and friends behind and preparing to enter a new culture, learn a new language, make new friends and become part of a different sort of family.

Now that buffer is just 24 hours of lay-overs, security checks and general sleep deprivation at 30,000 feet!

Returning to your home culture encompasses a whole new level of culture-stress known as "re-entry." Living and working overseas for almost 7 years I've lost a bit of my "American-ness" and gained a healthy dose of "Macedonian-ness" and even "European-ness." It's a strange sensation, like having your world-view expanded and contracted at the same time.

I've been gone from the US long enough that there are many social-conscious/culture events that I won't be able to identify with as fully as if I'd lived in the US (example: the election). Likewise, living here in the Balkans I've experienced the social-conscious/culture events along with the Balkan people (example: Kosovo's independence), something that my American friends likewise won't be able to fully identify with. In a nutshell, we've all changed as we've interacted with the culture in which we live.

It's strange to realize that I will likely feel like a foreigner in my home country similar to my feelings of foreignness here... and I'm sure I'll have plenty of examples to share in the weeks to come! =) The one thing, though, that I have truly come to appreciate about this moving between cultures is the deeper understanding into what scripture means that this world is not our ultimate home. The citizenship that trumps all others is the one that is heavenly and eternal. So from day to day I may "feel" varying degrees of being "American" or "Macedonian," but one thing is sure, I'm always God's kid (to use a beloved term of Dr. Johnson). =)

See you on the other side of the pond!

"You Are Macedonian Like Me!"

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Mon, 02 Mar 2009 07:18:24 PST

Really?? Yes, just one week before returning to the US for a spell I find out I am (or can be) Macedonian! :::tongue only half-firmly planted in cheek::: OK, let me explain ;)

Here in Macedonia, a foreigner cannot have a bank account without a current valid visa (with the account being frozen once the visa expires). As I have a new visa expiration date, I went to the bank on Friday to give them my updated information.

Confusion ensued as I dutifully handed the clerk my foreigners "lichna carta."

The gal just couldn't understand my inquiry about needing to update my visa info even after referencing with her supervisor and showing them my ID. I found out later that this was not a language barrier issue, but of course I thought it was and so I asked to speak to someone in English. She deferred to her supervisor.

He too was not sure of my question as he said, "There is no problem with the account," in response to our questions about making sure the account does not get frozen due to not having my current visa info. He continued, "you are free to withdraw and deposit up to 10,000 Euros each month." That, of course, had me question further because up until that point I thought that foreigner accounts had a limit of 2,000 Euros. (Not that I necessarily work with those large of numbers. I was just noticing that there was a difference in the standard limit for foreigners).

When I questioned the amount the supervisor then involved the bank manager. Several minutes passed as the clerk went back and forth between computer checks, taking and returning my passport, ID and bank book and discussing things with the bank manager. In the end the manager came over to me and expressed the source of the confusion.

"You see," he began, "if you come to the bank with this," gesturing with my passport, "you are a foreigner." "But," he continued, "if you hand us this," holding up my lichna carta aka Macedonian ID, "you are Macedonian like me!"

Ha! Who knew!

In the end we settled that I am a foreigner and they updated the account with the appropriate info. It did get me thinking though. Hmm.... am I feeling more Macedonian or American today.....?

Forgiveness Day

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Mon, 02 Mar 2009 11:38:04 PST

Yesterday was Forgiveness Day here in Macedonia. It's the Sunday immediately before the beginning of Great Lent in the Orthodox church (the traditional fast from dairy and such until Easter). In preparation for the Lenten fast, the faithful are encouraged to seek forgiveness from those they have wronged as well as to forgive those who've wronged them. Church services will center on Jesus' teachings on forgiveness and fasting as found in Matt 6:14-18.

For a really good explanation of this day and the intent and meaning behind it, I highly recommend following this link to an article by Protopresbyter Alexander Schmemann. Here's an excerpt:

"Now, forgiveness stands at the very center of Christian faith and of Christian life because Christianity itself is, above all, the religion of forgiveness. God forgives us, and His forgiveness is in Christ, His Son, Whom He sends to us, so that by sharing in His humanity we may share in His love and be truly reconciled with God. Indeed, Christianity has no other content but love. And it is primarily the renewal of that love, a return to it, a growth in it, that we seek in Great Lent, in fasting and prayer, in the entire spirit and the entire effort of that season. Thus, truly forgiveness is both the beginning of, and the proper condition for the Lenten season."

This is also the time of Carnival celebrations and the best known in Macedonia are held in Strumica. Christopher Deliso, who is a travel writer and lives in Macedonia, wrote an interesting Lonely Planet article about those celebrations back in 2006, and again I highly recommend reading it for some insight into this cultural event and its origins. Here's an excerpt.

"The Strumica Carnival... [also] has pagan origins and, as can be attested to by some of the more titillating costumes, has not entirely lost its ancient associations with virility, fertility and ruddy bucolic health.
The five-day carnival coincides with the beginning of Orthodox Lent...It was originally associated with Trimeri, a three-day period of Christian fasting for engaged girls. Such piety has long gone out the window, but the tradition partially lives on: Costumed processions visit the homes of engaged women, where each must guess which ofthe masked men is hers..."

Now you may be wondering why I'm talking about Lent a week after everyone else started talking about it. Well, this is because Easter in Macedonia is celebrated according to the Julian calendar... that means that this year Orthodox Easter will be on April 19th, which is one week later than in "the West" on April 12th, which is according to the Gregorian calendar. Confused? Well, here's a link for those wanting to learn more about the Julian vs Gregorian calendar history.

The "Day of Forgiveness" as well as the many comments, posts and Facebook statuses regarding the season of Lent have got me doing some deeper ponderings of faith. If you're interested in these personal ponderings, I will be posting them soon to my new blog: TrstngHm. In the meantime, I hope you enjoyed reading and learning some more about life and culture here in the Balkans. =)

Buying Time

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Fri, 27 Feb 2009 00:38:23 PST

Heading down the detergent aisle I spotted what looked like a bottle of "Tide" only it was actually a bottle of "Time." Ha! I must confess, I simply LOVE the irony of "buying time" and how fitting it is to apply it to doing laundry in the Balkans...

For almost 7 years now I've washed my clothes in a washer that doesn't clean too well and takes up to 3 hours to run a cycle. The clothes are then hung either on a drying rack in my living room in the Spring and Fall, on the balcony in the Summer and, my personal favorite, on the radiators in the Winter.

Hung on the racks it can take up to three days for clothes to dry... and it's hard to escape that musty smell and always wondering about potential mold growth (some colleagues have had this experience, not on the clothes, but on the walls of their apartment!). In the summers, which, just like my hometown in Sacto, are always blistering here in Skopje, clothes can be dry in less than an hour for cottons, two for thicker fabrics. The next fastest drying time is on the radiators in winter, which depends upon how much the heat has been cranked up on the water pumping through them from the central station.

Trivia:
The reason why the last one is my favorite is because it's the closest my towels ever get to the fluffy soft ones that come out of the WONDERFUL dryers in the US. The rest of the year I have to settle with rough stiffness (as evidenced in the picture)... and no, fabric softener doesn't help with that much. (Oh how I miss dryer sheets too!)

The thing about doing laundry here is that it takes planning ahead. There are no quick loads of laundry. It takse time, sometimes days. That's why I love the irony of buying "Time" to do my laundry. =)

This irony deepens for me, however, because I realize how my concept of time has changed since being here... the rhythm of time in the Balkans is so much different than in the US. Sigh.... I'm really tempted to discuss these differences here, but I'm thinking it is best explored in a blog entry all on it's own. So for the moment I will simply leave you with the fascinating image of being able to literally buy some Time. =)

No Comment

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Wed, 25 Feb 2009 03:14:45 PST

No sooner were the words "I'm a bookkeeper for..." out of my mouth when she interrupted me with, "Oh! Do you have a blog??"

"Uh, yes. A Bookkeepers Balkan Update," I responded, question and surprise punctuating my voice.

"Ha! My husband and I just found your blog while looking for information on the Balkans!" she explained excitedly.

I sat a little dumbfounded and (to be honest) just a bit creeped out. I knew it was bound to happen one of these days, but was totally unprepared to meet someone in person who first met me through this blog. lol. This little interaction was followed with a fun discussion of life and culture here in the Balkans. They're a lovely couple and I'm looking forward to getting to know them over the weeks and months to come. (And if you're reading this: so nice to have met you!) =)

This was a relevent reminder that people do read this blog and reinforces the chosen focus I have for it: to simply share about life and culture here in the Balkans from an expat's viewpoint and always with respect. Thanks for reading and I hope you enjoy reading about the Balkans as much as I enjoy living in it! =)

Brenda Begged the Balkan Bag Bonanza

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Fri, 13 Feb 2009 08:57:03 PST

Brenda in Paraguay tagged me saying, "I thought it would be interesting to see what is in your purse way over there in Macedonia." So, I'm dutifully (though belatedly) complying with her request. =)

Here are the rules:
1) "Post a picture of whatever bag you are carrying as of late. No, you cannot go up to your closet and pull out that cute little purse you used back before you had kids. I want to know what you carried today or the last time you left the house."

My purse is all about function. I'd love to have a stylish one, but I'm clueless how to pick the right one let alone chose a color that will work with everything... and besides, style and function don't always work together. That's why I have this basic black. =)

The day-to-day contents vary, but at any one time you can bet the following are in it:

Passport and Mac ID... don't leave home without them
Camera... you never know what Kodak moments may occur simply walking through town
Bible...that cute Macedonian knitted thingy has a Bible in it that was given to me by a friend several years ago while I was on home assignment... yes it was from a boy and yes we're just friends.
Cell phone... since I don't have a landline nor an answering machine (do they even make them here??) I make sure I have my cell phone on me (and try not to lose it!)
External hard drive.... yes, you may think I'm crazy to carry this with me, but since most of my travel entails going from home to the office and I use the hard drive to transfer files... it's a no-brainer
iPod... this cute green thing was a gift from a friend of mine in the US who knew I was looking for one. :) Thanks! It's been wonderful to finally be able to listen to music without the CD player skipping while I walk. Now all I need to get is a docking station with an alarm clock and I'll be set at home as well!
Inhaler... a must have with asthma
Cough drops... still recovering from being sick and they help with singing on Sundays.
Music for Sunday sets... typically I'm carrying them from one place to another and/or going over them in preparation.

My purse is usually stuffed full of all sorts of things, but those are the basics. =)

2) " I want to know how much it cost:) And this is not to judge. This is for entertainment purposes only. So spill it. And if there is a story to go along with how you obtained it, I’d love to hear it."

This purse was purchased in the old section of Skopje from one of the many vendors and cost about $10. There's not a big story behind it, only that I was looking for a functional purse and found this one while showing a short term team around town one summer. I've had this purse now for about 4 years and it's served me well! Though just recently one of the inside zippers broke, so perhaps it's time to get a new one. :)

3) "Tag some chicks. And link back to this post so people know why the heck you’re showing everyone your diaper bag/non-diaper bag."

I know this is a little lame, but I didn't tag anyone as I figure if someone wants to do this they can leave a comment, post their own blog and link back to this one. It's also because I don't really know anyone to tag in the first place! :)

Hope you enjoyed this silly little post. :)

Goodies!! Thank you!

noreply@blogger.com (Carolyn) — Fri, 06 Feb 2009 12:13:56 PST

As I exited the elevator my eyes glanced towards my mailbox... and what did I see?? A green card! Yes, the wondrous little post-card that lets me know there's a box waiting for me at the post office. =) Inside were some delightful goodies that have "share me" written all over them. ;)

Two "totally American" things I'm most often asked the recipes for are: Rice Crispy treats and chocolate chip cookies. And since we can't get marshmallows nor real chocolate chips here I'm really excited to share these items AND the recipe cards that were so sweetly included! Also the Starbursts will be shared soon as well. Books are always a blessing too. I love to read and it's hard to track down good titles locally. I'm looking forward to reading both of these and then passing them around as well. The last care package I had included A Thousand Splendid Suns which was fabulous and has since made the rounds to about 5 other people!

Being the recipient of a care package is always special and such a treat. The name "care package" says it all. That someone thought of you, put in fun things that they thought you would like (or in the case of my friends, things that harken to cherished shared memories or inside jokes) and pack it all up and send to you with love. I can't begin to express what a blessing it is to us workers living overseas to have a little bit of "home" sent every once in a while.

The same goes for "I'm thinking of you" cards and/or letters. It can be lonely at times here and those letters, cards and/or packages are a special reminder that we're loved and an encouragement to keep on keeping on. Infact, I have an "encouragement" scrapbook where I keep all those cards and letters... and pull out to read through on those days I'm needing a bit of encouragement... or even in times of thanksfulness and joy...

To all those who have sent letters, cards and packages over the years.... my deepest and heartfelt THANK YOU! May the blessing return to you 100-fold. :)