Late May through early June is a great time to visit Stockholm. If your timing is right, you’ll get to witness the Swedish rite of passage known as Studenten.

In fact, a tour guide here in Sweden’s capital told me that Studenten is one of the highlights on her tours on the rare occasions when she is lucky enough to expose cruise passengers to it.

I’ve seen Studenten several times, and it is pure joy. The event marks graduation from gymnasium (similar to high school in other societies) when Swedish students celebrate, with relentless enthusiasm, the final day of their final year of secondary education.

No doubt this is one of Sweden’s most bizarre and fun-filled traditions. Students wear white, sailor-style caps, a holdover from the 19th century, when students at Uppsala University donned hats that were already popular in Denmark and Germany.

Graduates start the day with a champagne breakfast, singing a traditional song that ends with “Hell, we are so good!”

The students then spend time with their teachers, and around 2 p.m., the students rush out of school to meet their families, who welcome them with flowers and presents.

The family also has prepared a poster featuring an amusing picture of the child from his/her youth. The student carries the poster and waves it during a parade.

Next, the students board something like a parade float. Groups of students actually rent or hire their own floats, flat-bed trucks and the like, or have someone drive them in a car. They are chauffeured around the city while they drink champagne and dance to loud music from a boombox, celebrating just how good they are!

Once you land in Stockholm’s Arlanda Airport, you have several choices to get yourself to the city center and your hotel. You can buy tickets using a credit card from the machines pictured above.Or you can pick up a ticket at the Tourist Information center, only a few steps away.

Arlanda Express will get you to the city center in 20 minutes, and trains depart the airport frequently.

The cost is SEK 240, although there have been promotions where two could travel for the price of one, or something roughly equivalent. Ask.

While Arlanda Express is comfortable and quick, it’s not always convenient. The train terminates at Central Station. The Flygbussarna is cheaper than Arlanda Express, SEK 110, but also delivers you only to Central Station.

Terminating at Central Station is great if you’re staying at one of these hotels: Radisson SAS Royal Viking, Nordic Light or Nordic Sea, Clarion Hotel Sign, and although it’s not shown in the photo below, the Sheraton Stockholm (about a five-minute walk from the Arlanda Express terminus).

If you’re up for a longer walk, in 15 minutes you can wheel your luggage to Radisson SAS Strand, Hotel Stureplan, Scandic Anglais, the Grand Hotel or Hilton Slussen, all recommended hotels.

If you’re not up for walking, you could take a taxi or navigate your way to the metro (called Tunnelbana or T-Bana). There’s a better option: Take the Airport Shuttle from Arlanda to your hotel for SEK 190. It’s a great service that delivers you door-to-door, but sometimes you will have to wait for up to 15 minutes for the shuttle to arrive. You can buy tickets at the airport or in advance at Airportshuttle.se.

One smart purchase is the Stockholm Card. Once in Stockholm, use the card for admission to 75 museums and attractions, free public transportation, sightseeing by boat on the Historical Canal Tour and much, much more. Download a guide of all that is included. Cost: SEK 375 for a 24-hour card. Also available for 48 hours and 72 hours.

One method of travel I did not mention for getting from the airport to the city center is by taxi. The rate typically approaches SEK 500. However, taxis are convenient, comfortable and quick, and if there are two or more traveling together, a taxi can be the best value for you. If you opt for a taxi, use one of these four recommended taxi companies:

• Taxi Stockholm Phone +46-8-15 00 00
• Taxi 020 Phone +46-8-85 04 00
• Taxi Transfer Phone +46-8-693 71 00
• Taxi Kurir Phone +46-8-30 00 00

If you’re staying at a hotel that offers them, bicycles are another great way to get around once in Stockholm. Hilton Slussen and Scandic Anglais make bikes available free of charge.

Stockholm a fairly compact city, so it’s easy to get around and explore. You can walk or bike to most places of interest in Stockholm, or, in this city of islands, you can hop on a ferry. For more, view the video below.

Baltic Sea port destinations feature history and culture, city sophistication and rural charm, medieval streets and town walls, Viking villages and fairytale kingdoms, and the palaces and castles of kings and queens. Design your journey around the predominant themes that characterize this part of the world.From the opulent palaces of the Tsars in St. Petersburg to age-old castles in Scandinavia follow in the footprints of Kings & Tsars in search of “gold, glory and magnificent palaces.”

Walk the cobblestone streets of medieval old towns situated in the heart of modern cities. Amble along centuries-old town walls. In the Baltics, the ancient & modern mix to provide a “stroll through the centuries.”

Admire Modern Architecture & Design, and “let your imagination be inspired.” Some of the world’s greatest architects and designers call the Baltics home. Their inspired design is apparent in city centers, museums and galleries throughout the region.

Experience the bustle of great cosmopolitan cities. Celebrate outdoors. You’ll have plenty of daylight too. The region’s “Northern Light & Mild Climate,” not only make for long sunny days — due to its northerly latitude — but also for “some of nature’s most spectacular phenomena.”

Long days also give you lots of time for Great Shopping & Fine Food and the opportunity to “meet the locals and enjoy local specialties.”

Few cruising regions offer such diversification as the Baltic Sea or as many opportunities for an enriching cruise experience based on thematic interests. Whether you’re a shopper, a history buff or a nature lover, the Baltic has remarkable appeal.

Cruising into Baltic Sea ports is an exhilarating experience. From the 50-mile transit to Stockholm’s city center through a beautiful archipelago of 30,000 islands and islets to slow transits past castles, palaces and fortresses to reach St. Petersburg, few regions come close to offering such diverse cruise experiences.

Fortunately, because many Baltic Sea cruises are 10 days or longer, itineraries are port-intensive, and cruise passengers get to see several cities by the sea on a single sailing. The approach to any Baltic Sea port by ship is an inspiring experience. Distant city skylines typically are characterized not by high-rise buildings but by copper covered church spires and towers of castles and historic buildings.

Some port cities feature well-preserved town walls and buildings from the Medieval Age, silent sentinels of long ago, when German merchants of the Hanseatic League sailed between ports to engage in commerce. Often, the city skylines that cruise passengers see today would be recognizable to those German merchants long gone. Because of their historical importance and the fact that they are so well preserved, some of the cities are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Cruise ships transit old trading routes from the days when Vikings ruled the sea. History lives on the city shores. Moreover, cruise ships typically dock within walking distance of historic city centers and other attractions. When transit is required, distances from the ship to the city center are usually quite short. Waterfronts can be lively, with shops, restaurants and cafes — and always the bustle of people.

The Baltic Cruising Region serves up some of the world’s most remarkable port destinations: Stockholm, situated on 14 islands; St. Petersburg, with so many rivers and canals that it is called the Venice of the North; Rostock, the old German town that shares a port with the seaside resort Warnemunde; Visby, a town that speaks volumes about its Medieval heritage; Kalmar, where visitors still feel the influence of the German Hanseatic League; and UNESCO World Heritage sites such as Tallinn and the historic center of Riga.

These are only a sampling of the cities that have inspired voyages for millennia — and for many more years to come.

[Tomorrow, Holland America Line's Eurodam ties up in Copenhagen, at which time I'll post the first in a series of reports about how to spend two perfect days in the Danish capital. For now, however, this article is for all of those who wish they were on Eurodam.]

Set aside what you’re doing for a moment, and come with me. Together, we will board Holland America Line’s brand new Eurodam for a virtual cruise. I’ll give you a few minutes to pack. Let me know when you’re ready.

You’re lucky to be traveling with me, because I’ll make travel painless for you. We’ll whisk through airport security, breeze through baggage claim and make a quick transit to the ship, where, with an air befitting royalty, we’ll cross the threshold into this lovely vessel.

Welcome aboard!

First Impressions
Resist the temptation to ooh and aah. That marks you, and me by association, as a rookie cruiser. Still, take a moment to ponder the three-level atrium.

Notice that the lower atrium level resembles the lobby of a fine hotel, with reception area, excursions desk and atrium bar.

One level up, on Lower Promenade Deck, you spot the Pinnacle Grill and Bar. We’ll return here for one of the best dinners you’ve ever had. The elegant reservations-only dining venue features Pacific Northwest cuisine at its finest. At $20 per person, the Pinnacle Grill is one of two restaurants on Eurodam that carries an additional charge. I’ll tell you about the other one in a moment.

Up another level, on Promenade Deck, is the Ocean Bar, which serves as the ship’s social hub, with its cozy nooks, expansive bar and lounge. Later, we’ll enjoy live piano music and cocktails at the Ocean Bar before heading to dinner. (After dinner and the show, by the way, we’ll gather round the sing-along Piano Bar on Lower Promenade Deck for some late-night fun).

Getting Settled
For now, though, let’s make haste to our staterooms, unpack and meet up for lunch at the Lido Restaurant on, that’s right, Lido Deck (deck nine).

Our rooms are on Navigation Deck (deck eight). The keycard that you’re holding will serve as your room key and charge card on Eurodam, so that you’ll never have to dig into your wallet for cash. Insert the card into the door at stateroom 8013, and voila, you’re in!

Your stateroom looks inviting — perhaps a little too inviting. You’ve just flown across the Atlantic, and that big bed is calling your name. Resist the urge to insert yourself between the crisp white, high-thread count Egyptian cotton sheets. We’ve got some exploring to do! Later tonight, you can climb into the ultra-comfy confines of the appropriately named Mariner’s Dream bed, a Holland America Line “Signature of Excellence” feature. Feel free to sleep in tomorrow.

As you unpack, you’ll find lots of storage space — three roomy closets with a safe, two humongous drawers at the foot of the bed, and two storage bins above the sleeper sofa. Store your luggage beneath the bed.

Before unpacking, however, take a moment to get your bearings: Check out the balcony, with seating and a table for two. You’ll spend some quality time here taking in the ocean air and gorgeous scenery.

Note the flatpanel television. You may want to spend an afternoon (not now!) watching a movie. Take a peek in the bathroom, where you’ll find large Egyptian cotton towels, Elemis bath amenities, and a combo tub and shower.

The hair dryer, by the way, is in the cabinet underneath the make-up mirror at the desk. There’s also a stocked mini-bar. Note that items you consume are charged to your shipboard account. Feel free to consume as much as you like on our virtual cruise. In fact, I think I’ll have a glass of champagne as I unpack.

You’ll no doubt eye the deluxe waffle/terry bathrobes and the note that tells you that for $49 you can take new bathrobes home with you. Consider it a way of extending your cruise. You wake up at home next week, don your bathrobe, and throw back the curtains half-expecting to see Stockholm — or your stateroom steward coming with breakfast. Keep on dreaming!

Now that you’re done unpacking, one more thing: Before heading up to the Lido buffet, do as I do. Sign up for “unlimited laundry,” which will cost you $45 for your seven-day cruise. Hand over any clothes that need pressing or cleaning to your stateroom steward. You’ll receive them the next day, crisp and clean to keep you looking your best.

The Envy Factor
I knew you’d see them. Darn. The Deluxe Verandah Suites and Penthouse Verandah Suites on Rotterdam Deck (deck seven). Yes, they’re roomy, ranging from 510 square feet to 700 square feet with verandah, about double the size of our staterooms. You’re angry with me, aren’t you? Let me talk to reception to see about getting us an upgrade.

Thanks for waiting. I have good news. Yes, we are being upgraded. Don’t worry, our room steward will shift all of our luggage. Laundry, pressing and dry cleaning are now complimentary throughout our cruise, one of the many perks that comes with this category stateroom. The bath towels, still the same quality, are now oversized. And we get all sorts of extras, including my favorite: access to the Neptune Lounge.

For the exclusive use of guests cruising in Deluxe Verandah Suites and Penthouse Verandah Suites, the Neptune Lounge features worktables, large-screen television, library, sofas, chairs and refreshments, including continental breakfast, a mini-bar, specialty coffees, sandwiches and pastries through much of the day. Also, the concierge is at our service to make reservations for both shore excursions and dining.

We’ll return here later today. For the moment, however, it’s time for us to have lunch at the Lido Restaurant. The expansive dining area features several serving stations. No need to make the trip all around, because the stations are identical on each side of the restaurant.

You go your way, I’ll go mine, and let’s meet aft for al fresco dining. It’s a gorgeous day, so why not enjoy time in the sun? Save room for a slice of pizza from the 24-hour pizzeria, located in the aft dining area.

Cool Cabanas
After lunch, we head to the pool. The pool looks inviting, as do the cabanas on Lido and Observation decks. The cabanas are a new feature for Holland America Line. Think of the cabana as your own private oasis. With privacy curtains and large bed-like lounges, the eight Lido Deck cabanas go for $30 on port days and $50 on sea days.

Up one deck in an area called “The Retreat” are airy, tented private cabanas furnished with woven chaises, ottomans and upholstered settees.

We’ll definitely reserve a cabana on one day of our cruise, but for now, let’s head to the Greenhouse Spa and Salon, where we can opt for a number of treatments, or work out in the well-equipped and ultra-large fitness facilities. One area we won’t want to miss is the thermal suites, with heated, ceramic chaise lounges. Is it time for a nap yet?

New for Holland America, the Spa Staterooms and Suites offer easy access to the spa and a host of amenities ranging from organic cotton bathrobes and slippers to a minibar stocked with specialty waters.

Let’s walk up two decks to Explorations Cafe, powered by The New York Times. The combination coffee shop/bookstore/library/internet cafe is a favorite spot on sea days. Adjacent is the Crow’s Nest, where we’ll sit back and enjoy the panoramic views.

Much Ado
Before heading back to our staterooms for some rest and relaxation, let’s take the midship, glass-enclosed exterior elevators to decks two and three. Those are the decks where the majority of activities take place.

The three-level Mainstage Theater features nightly shows. There’s a casino, piano bar, sports bar and even a disco, Northern Lights.

We will watch cooking demonstrations at the Culinary Arts Center and attend free workshops at Holland America Line’s Digital Workshop powered by Microsoft Windows. If time allows, we’ll even catch a movie in the Screening Room.

Tonight, we’ll dine in the two-level Rembrandt dining room. Thanks to Holland America Line’s new “As You Wish Dining” program, which offers flexible dining times, we’ll pick a time that suits us. Shall we say 7 p.m.? There are even tables for two, should we prefer an intimate dinner.

Later this week, we’ll dine at the Northwest-inspired Pinnacle Grill and also at the reservations-only (for dinner) Tamarind restaurant for a Pan-Asian dining experience. Tamarind carries a $15 cover charge for dinner, while lunch is complimentary.

On one night, we’ll also dine at the Italian-inspired Caneletto, which is offered with no surcharge in a section of the Lido buffet that is transformed each evening. Of course, you should order room service and dine on your balcony at least a couple of times. I use breakfast room service as my wake-up call.

The one thing I haven’t mentioned is that we get all of this — and the wonderful ports of call on this cruise. Aren’t you glad you’re aboard Eurodam? Welcome aboard! Now let’s go cruising.

Ralph Grizzle is The Avid Cruiser.

Need a reason to cruise to or from Stockholm? I’ll give you ten good reasons.

1. Stockholm is immensely beautiful. The city is built on 14 islands that appear to be floating on water.
2. If 14 islands should prove to be insufficient, not to worry: At Stockholm’s doorstep are 30,000 islands in the archipelago.
3. Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s Old Town, is one of the world’s best preserved Medieval cities. Enjoy strolling the Old Town’s narrow alleys and cobble-stone streets, taking time to stop in cozy cafes, shops and world-class restaurants.
4. Stockholm is a walkable and bikeable city. The Swedish capital is compact and easy to get around. You can see and do a lot in a short amount of time. Be sure to take time to bicycle through the former royal deer park known as Djurgarden. Some of the scenes in Djurgarden fool you into thinking you’re in the Swedish countryside.
5. You can fika in Stockholm. Fika is where catching up with friends meets with coffee and cakes. But Fika is about much more than caffeine and carbohydrates. It’s a Swedish social institution, where friends sit down and chat about life and current events over snacks like kanelbulle, the Swedish version of a cinnamon bun, and a cappuccino. You will want to fika in one of Stockholm’s many cozy cafes.
6. Stockholm has dropped from 23rd most expensive city to live in to 31st. By comparison, Copenhagen ranks 7th, Oslo, sixth. Stockholm offers the best value among the Scandinavian capitals.
7. Stockholm is a city of culture. It has the world’s highest concentration of museums and an abundance of attractions, sites and galleries. There’s something for everyone: for families, for singles, young and old, gay or straight.
8. With one third of its land area covered in parks, and one third in water, Stockholm is a green city. Stockholm is Europe’s first Green Capital.
9. Getting to Stockholm from destinations worldwide is easy thanks to numerous flights daily from all over the world, including some low-cost carriers. Getting around once in Stockholm is easy and efficient.
10. Stockholm is the capital of Scandinavia. The city is a Nordic hub in business and in culture. Today, instead of Stockholmers going abroad for a fix of glamor and sophistication, visitors are coming to Stockholm for a taste of the international high life. Why not join them before or after your next cruise to or from the Swedish capital?

One of the most popular itinerary options in Europe, a Northern Europe cruise presents passengers with cultural diversity, historical attractions, and magnificent scenery. Cruises in Northern Europe typically combine visits to Copenhagen and other Scandinavian capitals and overnights (on the ship) in St. Petersburg.

From St. Petersburg’s opulent palaces of the Tsars to Stockholm’s beautiful harbor to Copenhagen’s charming Tivoli Gardens, few cruising regions offer the diverse treasures of the Baltic. Best of all, on a Northern European cruise, cruise ships typically dock within walking distance of the city center, allowing you to step off the ship and explore on your own.

Founded in 1703 by Peter the Great, St. Petersburg is among the world’s most beautiful cities. The baroque Winter Palace known as the Hermitage boasts more than 1,000 rooms and 8,000 paintings.

Known as the “City That Floats On Water,” Stockholm is situated on 14 islands, with meandering shop-lined streets in the old town, Gamla Stan, palaces and parks. Don’t miss the Vasa Museum, which houses a royal flagship raised from the harbor more than 300 years after she sank in 1628 on her maiden voyage.

Home of fairy tale writer Hans Christian Andersen, Copenhagen is chock full of attractions, including Strøget, Europe’s longest pedestrian shopping street. Don’t miss the dazzling display of the Danish crown jewels at Rosenborg Castle.

Helsinki’s marketplace, next to the ship terminal (depending on where your ship docks), is a colorful introduction to Finland’s largest city. Other attractions are a short ferry ride away, including the “Gibraltar of the North,” Suomenlinna Fortress, which has guarded the entrance to Helsinki for 200 years.

Other cruises to Northern Europe set sail along the Norwegian coastline, home to breathtaking views of fjords and quaint coastal towns.

Travel by rail to Berlin from the Northern European ports collectively known as Rostock/Warnemunde.

For diversity, it’s hard to beat a Northern Europe cruise.

Countries bordering the Baltic Sea Region offer varied shopping venues. Many of the town and city shopping areas, for example, are for pedestrians only, and shoppers may browse at their leisure while strolling along wide streets free of traffic. Other cities offer shopping within well-preserved medieval walls and along charming cobblestone streets in the old sections of town.

Among the Baltic shopping specialties: Amber is indigenous to the region and can be found in many shops, set in silver and gold. Look for amber particularly in Lithuania and Latvia. Poland, on the other hand, specializes in crystal (cruise passengers have the opportunity to shop for crystal in Gdynia).

Another Baltic specialty: Scandinavian design. In Scandinavia’s large port cities many shops feature furniture, clothing, and glasswork from world-renowned factories in the region.

In St. Petersburg, artifacts from the Soviet-era may be purchased. But be advised that special permits are required for taking those goods out of the country. Antique shoppers will find plenty to browse and purchase in each of the Baltic Sea port destinations.

Daily markets and special event markets, such as Medieval Week in some port cities, offer unique shopping opportunities in festive atmospheres.

While most shops in all of the Baltic countries will accept credit cards, be advised that some smaller shops may not accept foreign currencies. ATM machines for withdrawing local currencies, however, are usually abundant. Also, many Baltic destinations offer tax-free shopping, with a portion of the purchase refunded at the airport before departure or at banks and kiosks. Look for “Tax Free Shopping” signs and postings.

The only thing missing for shoppers in the Baltic Cruising Region is extra space in their luggage to take home all that they’ve acquired. There’s a solution for that. Many shops will ship your goods home. So purchase a souvenir or two — or three. After all, what could be a better reminder of your trip to this remarkable part of the world?

Shop without having to worry about getting mowed down by passing vehicles on pedestrian shopping streets that are closed to vehicular traffic. In Copenhagen, shop Strøget, the world’s longest pedestrian shopping street. Popular shops include Illums Bolighus featuring Danish design, and the flagship stores of Royal Copenhagen Porcelain and Georg Jensen silver.

In Helsingborg, stroll the pedestrian street Kullagatan for department stores and boutiques. Shops to make you stop: Stenströms, Royal supplier of Swedish men’s shirts; Carl Hof, jewelry designer; and Sigurd Persson, featuring Swedish design.

Malmo’s main shopping area runs from Stortorget, along Södergatan, across Gustav Adolfs Torg and then along Södra Förstadsgatan to Triangeln and Möllevångstorget. Most of the area is pedestrian walkway. Be sure to stop in the popular Form Design Center for Scandinavian design.

Oslo’s Karl Johans gate is a pedestrian shopping street with boutique stores, fine shops and internatinal chains such as H&M and Benetton, while Karlskrona’s popular pedestrian street, Ronnebygatan, features Åhlens department store and Kronan shopping arcade, with 20 shops.

Kalmar is well known for Swedish crystal, handmade in one of the 15 glassworks in the Kingdom of Crystal, among which Orrefors and Kosta Boda are the most prominent. In Orrefors factory shop, purchase (tax free) firsts and seconds from the Orrefors collection and watch master craftsmen in action as they create crystal masterpieces right in front of you.

Poland also offers crystal. Cruise passengers will want to make for Swietojanska Street, Gdnyia’s main shopping street, for a selection of crystal in shops and galleries.

A visitor’s first view of Copenhagen will likely be not from the sea but from the air. That’s because Copenhagen is where most Baltic cruises begin. Founded in 1167 as a fortress to protect the important herring trade, Copenhagen features two main cruise terminals, Langelinie Pier, situated within walking distance of the city center, and Freeport Terminal.

Approaching (or leaving) either of the terminals through Kronloebet channel, cruise ship passengers are able to admire Copenhagen’s low skyline. The presence of only a few high-rise buildings allow Copenhagen’s copper covered church spires and towers of historic buildings dominate the skyline.

Only steps away from the ship, Copenhagen’s Langelinie Pier (pictured) offers shops and tourist facilities for cruise passengers.

Spend a leisurely morning strolling the markets in many Baltic Sea destinations. Cruise passengers can hardly miss Helsinki’s famous Kauppatori, the Market Square, selling almost everything from fresh fish to handicrafts. The Old Market Hall next to the Market Square is worth a visit as well. The Old Market Hall offers historic charm and a wide assortment of fresh fish and special foods, including canned bear meat!Nearly every Baltic Sea port has a market. Riga is home to Europe’s oldest and largest market, while Rostock boasts Germany’s largest farmer’s market. Klaipeda’s central market features fresh fruit and vegetables, flowers and fish, Lithuanian specialties and varieties of smoked ham and salami.

Stockholm’s Östermalmshallen market is renowned for its traditional Swedish food, some international offerings, and fresh shellfish.

Deeply rooted in regional folklore and tradition, amber is mined in Lithuania. Only ten minutes by foot from where cruise ships dock along the Danes river brings cruise passengers to the heart of Klaipeda’s Old Town, where visitors will find a great variety of amber jewelry.

Also, in neighboring Latvia, look for amber in Riga, where Amber Gallery offers exclusive amber jewelry, set in silver and gold in multiple locations throughout the city.

Helsingor (also known as Elsinore) is the Danish town that is home to Hamlet’s castle. Elsinore was founded during the reign of King Erik of Pomerania (1382-1459).

Cruise ships moor at Kings Quay at the beginning of the one of Denmark’s oldest pedestrian streets. Within walking distance are exquisite old churches, a medieval cloister and the charming half-timbered shop houses that stretch to the harbor.

Cruising into Elsinore offers spectacular views of Kronborg Castle, made famous by Shakespeare as the backdrop to Hamlet.

Founded in 1680 as Sweden’s primary naval base, Karlskrona is surrounded by islands. Ships transit a beautiful archipelago and a series of fortresses en route to the Karlskrona’s harbor.

Ships that dock at the city center put passengers within a five-minute walk of attractions. Most ships, however, must anchor, and cruise passengers enjoy a short tender past forts to a landing at the Naval Museum, a five-minute walk from the city center.

Many of the port destinations in the Baltic Cruising region are walkable cities. Pedestrian streets and parks allow visitors to escape traffic.

Stockholm’s National City Park, for example, offers a unique mixture of nature and culture, including four Royal Palaces. A recreation area for city residents and visitors alike, it stretches right through the middle of the city.

Kaivopuisto Park is Helsinki’s oldest and best-known park. The sea, rock cliffs and green lawns offer many opportunities to relax and enjoy the outdoors. At the highest point of the park is the Ursa Observatory. There are several cafés and restaurants along the shore and on the islands.

Klaipeda’s Curonian Spit is a nature preserve on a narrow peninsula stretching from Klaipeda to the Russian border and featuring Europe’s highest sand dunes (earning it the nickname, the Lithuanian Sahara).

The nature preserve is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as are the following Baltic Sea sites:

Suomenlinna Fortress, one of the world’s largest maritime fortresses, founded in 1748 and built on six islands off the coast of Helsinki;

Visby and its two-mile-long stone town wall, with nearly 200 stone buildings that have survived since the 12th and 13th centuries;

Tallinn, featuring Northern Europe’s best preserved old town;

Stockholm’s Drottningholms Slott och Slottsteater, residence of the Royal Family;

and Karlskrona’s well-preserved dockyards dating back from the 17th and 18th century.

The Baltic Cruising Region is rich with castles and royal palaces. Visitors can still see the changing of the guard in Copenhagen’s Amalienborg Palace, residence of Queen (changing of the guard daily at noon); and in Stockholm, where the main guard has been at Kungliga Slottet since 1523. Today, military units and bands from all over the Sweden participate.

Some of Scandinavia’s castles live on in literature. In Elsinore, the Dutch Renaissance style Castle Kronborg, built between 1574 and 1585, is the backdrop for Shakespeare’s Hamlet, and thus it is known as Hamlet’s Castle.

Across the sound, Helsingborg’s Sofiero Castle in is situated at the top of a rhododendron ravine. During the first weeks of June, more than 10,000 rhododendrons are in full bloom all over the castle park.

Kalmar Castle is one of Scandinavia’s best-preserved Renaissance castles. With a history that stretches back to the 12th century, the castle represents more than 800 years of brotherhood and blood. Its present appearance dates from the 16th century when the Vasa Kings rebuilt it in the style of a Renaissance palace. At Kalmar Castle, guides often wear Renaissance clothing to further strengthen the historical atmosphere.

Riga Castle stands on the ashes of a castle built by the Order of the Sword Brothers around 1209. Originally named Wittenstein Castle (”made of white stone”), the castle was destroyed by townsfolk in the civil war. A second castle, rebuilt on the site, was destroyed. Reconstruction on the third and current castle was completed in 1515.

Klaipeda’s Castle Museum opened in 2002 in renovated underground corridors of an old castle. The museum features authentic 16th and 17th century exhibits.

Visby’s only castle was demolished in 1679. Not even the ruins remain. But 13th century church ruins do remain. Many are used for open-air concerts and cafes during the summer.

Speaking of churches, Rostock’s Kulturhistorische Museum, located in a Cistercian convent founded 1270 by Denmark’s Queen Margarete, features a remarkably complete ornamentation at convent church.

During the past few decades the number of St. Petersburg shops, supermarkets and commercial centers increased dramatically. Shops tend to gravitate to Nevski Prospect, including Gostiny Dvor, a department store; Passage, across the street from Gostiny Dvor, for clothing, footwear, utensils, electronics and perfumes.

When in St. Petersburg, be sure to take time to walk along Nevsky Prospect. The famed street is to St. Petersburg what the Champs Elysses is to Paris, or Broadway to New York. Ask your guide to take you to a cafe for a coffee, Russian beer or Soviet champagne (technically, sparkling wine). “Walk along Nevsky Prospect, have a cup of coffee, watch people pass by, and you understand all of Russia,” says Timophey Beliaev, of the Corinthia Nevaskij Palace Hotel, situated on Nevsky Prospect.

Typical Russian souvenirs: Russian dolls, china, red and black caviar, and amber. Visit the Souvenirs Market, located opposite the Cathedral of Christ’s Resurrection (Canal Griboedova, 2). Be sure not to miss Eliseyevski Magazin, the city’s best known grocery store, named after its founder and first owner, who delivered to the Russian Tsar’s Court.

Stockholm has endless shopping possibilities with several areas in the city of interest to shoppers. Gamla Stan features gift shops, including the inviting Slottsboden in Kungliga Slottet, specializing in genuine handicrafts and antiques.

City center is the place to go for big department stores and shopping malls. NK and Gallerian are located on Hamngatan; Åhléns City, PUB and Debenhams on Drottninggatan; and Sturegallerian at Stureplan.

Small boutiques are scattered throughout the city; however, the greatest concentration is in the area between Norrmalmstorg and Stureplan. Södermalm is filled with shops and galleries, where shoppers can buy everything from exquisite ceramics at Blås & Knåda to jewelry at Efva Attling’s atelier. Both Madonna and Jennifer Aniston wear her creations.

Tallinn’s Old Town is lined with dozens of souvenir, antique and specialty stores, not to mention clothing and footwear. Within Old Town, the main shopping streets are Viru, Müürivahe, Suur-Karja, Vaike-Karja and Kullassepa.

Kalmar’s picturesque 17th and 18th century stone buildings offer a wide range of shopping. Almost all streets in the shopping area are walking streets, with Storgatan and Kaggensgatan being the main ones.

Find Swedish handicraft such as woodwork, pottery, jewelry and textile craft as well as Swedish and international delicacies at Gerdas Te & Kaffehandel. Souvenirs from Kalmar can be found at the Tourist Information Center, Kalmar Castle and Kalmar County Museum.

While in Riga, take time to browse the antique shops that sell Latvian paintings ranging from the end of the 19th century to the beginning of the 20th century. Also look for bronze, silver, furniture, books, coins and china, and a genuine old Russian icon or two.

In the heart of Copenhagen, on Amager Torv, visitors will find Georg Jensen Antiques with an impressive range of porcelain, silver and crystal. Just a minute’s walk from the bustle of Strøget is peaceful Kompagnistræde, home of another cluster of antique shops.

Also, summer flea and antique markets are held throughout the city. Here junk rubs shoulders with the odd unrecognized gem, and you may be lucky enough to find a real bargain. Frederiksberg and Israels Plads flea markets are less pricy than the market at Gammel Strand, but Gammel Strand’s ambience is unbeatable with its canalside setting and outdoor cafés.

In the Baltic Sea Region, visitors will find refined city lifestyles and rural country charm. From opera and ballet in St. Petersburg to open-air museums presenting farm and peasant life, the Baltics spans the gamut of cultural offerings.

Famed director Ingmar Bergman began his career as a director at Malmo’s opera house in Sweden. Today, the opera house presents opera and musicals.

St. Petersburg is chock full of theaters, notably The Mariinsky Theater (formerly the Kirov Academic Opera and Ballet Theater), one of Russia’s largest and oldest music theaters, famous the world over for opera and ballet.

The world’s oldest theater exists in the Baltics: the Court Theater, at Stockholm’s Drottningholms Slott. Copenhagen’s new Opera House ranks among the world’s most modern.

Among the many attractions for culture seekers and sightseers are world-class museums, including the world’s oldest open-air museum (Stockholm’s Skansen) and the world’s largest naval museum (St. Petersburg’s Central Naval Museum, also Russia’s oldest museum, founded in 1709 and now featuring more than 500,000 exhibits).

Even churches soar with superlatives: Visit Sweden’s largest wooden church (Admiralty Church in Karlskrona), Western Europe’s largest orthodox church (Helsinki’s Orthodox Cathedral), the Baltic region’s largest cathedral (Riga’s Dome Cathedral, also home to what was once the world’s largest organ), and the world’s tallest building until the late 1800s (St. Olav’s Church in Tallinn).

Cruise passengers will also see Scandinavia’s oldest remaining Renaissance castle (Malmo’s Malmohus Castle), the world’s largest preserved Viking Age silver collection (in Visby), Northern Europe’s most powerful cannon tower (used during the 16th century in Tallinn), the world’s best preserved Viking ships (Oslo’s Viking Ship Museum), the world’s longest pedestrian shopping street (Copenhagen’s Strøget), and Europe’s highest sand dunes (at Klaipeda’s Neringa Nature Preserve).

Viking history comes to life in many port destinations in the Baltic Cruising Region. At several sites, resurrected warships and museums retell the stories of a fierce life during the Viking Age. The Medieval Age lives on through well-preserved old towns and city walls and through castles and palaces that are still used today. Old church spires soar above city skylines.

Moving toward the modern, Scandinavian art and design is apparent in much of the architecture. Cruise passengers could do little more than visit art shops and galleries and feel as though they had had an enriching cruise experience. But there is so much more in this varied region of the world. Visit the many UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Parks and gardens are in full bloom during the cruising season, all part of the culture and attractions that await cruise passengers in the Baltics.

In Tallinn’s Old Town find St. Catherine’s Passage for craft workshops in a medieval atmosphere. Also, at Master’s Courtyard visitors can shop for jewelry and handicrafts, view art exhibitions, and sample confections made in the popular Café-Chocolaterie.

Find it all at Finland’s Stockmann, the Nordic region’s largest department store. In Helsinki, shoppers will find Stockmann along the main shopping streets running north and south: Pohjoisesplanadi and Eteläesplanadi.

Stockmann also houses the Academic Bookstore, situated in a separate block and connected to the department store by a tunnel. Helsinki’s Design District offers a variety of shops selling Finnish design classics and fresh and innovative ideas produced by younger generation.

In Turku, visit Hansa Shopping Center, situated in the center of Turku and featuring nearly 200 boutiques, cafés, restaurants and the department store Stockmann.

With a history that dates back many millennia, the Baltic Sea Region is awash in museums. In fact, some of the cities, contained within well-preserved medieval town walls, could be considered to be museums themselves.

Museum-seekers will find no better place to begin than in Stockholm. With more than 100 museums, Stockholm boasts the world’s highest concentration of museums. Visitors with time to see only a few will not want to miss the Vasa Museum (pictured), which houses a warship (the actual ship, not a model) that in 1628 sank in the harbor on its maiden voyage and was brought up from the depths in 1961. Nothing can prepare visitors for the scale of what they will see in the city’s most popular museum, built in 1990.

Within walking distance of Stockholm’s Vasa Museum is the world’s oldest open-air museum, Skansen, featuring a zoo with wild and domestic Nordic animals, and 150 cultural and historic buildings from throughout Sweden. Skansen, more than 100 years old, is a large living heritage exhibit well worth a visit.

Open-air museums are common throughout the Baltic Region: Oslo’s Norwegian Folk Museum features rural and urban houses from throughout Norway and a 13th century stave church; Tallinn’s Open-Air Museum (pictured) features village life from the 18th and 20th centuries in 72 furnished buildings located in a forest park; Seurasaari Open-Air Museum in Helsinki features traditional old buildings and farmsteads reflecting the history of Finnish architecture from the 18th century to the present; and Turku’s Luostarinmaki Handicrafts Museum is an open-air museum where craftsmen working in original workshops demonstrate pre-industrial skills and lifestyles.

Open-air museums provide an opportunity for visitors to see how life was lived during earlier times in the Baltic Sea region. Riga’s Latvian Ethnographic Open Air Museum features buildings from outlying Latvian regions, homesteads, several churches, windmills, smithies and brick-kilns. Also on show are Livonian peasants and Russian old-believers’ farmhouses, as well as the 18th century country school, an old road pub and a farm of the 1920-1930s.

Helsingborg’s Fredriksdal open-air museum features an old farming community, botanical garden, 450 species of roses, a romantic English park and a striking French park. Plays are presented during the summer. Visitors to Helsingborg will also want to see the Dunker Culture House, designed by Kim Utzon (son of the Sydney Opera House architect Jorn Utzon) and home to the city museum.

St. Petersburg is somewhat unique as a cruise port of call, because many ships tie up for at least two nights in the city that considers itself to be an “open-air” museum. From 1712 to 1918, St. Petersburg was the capital of Russian Empire. Having survived 11 emperors, revolutions, economic reform, floods, blockades during World War II and more, St. Petersburg astonishes even the most experienced traveler. St. Petersburg’s opening to the sea made it Russia’s cultural oasis. The city’s architecture evokes Russia’s former Imperial power, particularly around the Palace Square and the Summer Garden. St. Petersburg’s museums are among the world’s most famous: the State Hermitage (pictured), chief among them.

The Gotlands Fornsal Museum in Visby shows the fascinating history of the island with a new exhibition about the Viking era.

Just north of Copenhagen is Frilandsmuseet, where visitors can experience 50 farms, mills and houses dating back 300 years. Guided tours are available as are daily theater performances and more.

Enjoy live performances throughout the Baltic Cruising region. St. Petersburg may well be the most popular performance port. It is a city full of theaters. The Mariinsky Theater (formerly the Kirov Academic Opera and Ballet Theater) is one of Russia’s largest and oldest music theaters, famous the world over for opera and ballet.

The great Swedish film and theater director Ingmar Bergman began his career as a director at Malmo’s opera house, opened in 1944. Today, the opera house presents opera and musicals.

Riga’s National Opera dates back to the 18th century when the first musical performances were staged in the Duchy of Kurzeme. In 1760, traveling opera troupes began performing regularly in Riga.

Copenhagen’s Opera House ranks among the world’s most modern. The main stage of the opera seats an audience of approximately 1400, and Takkelloftet, the experimental stage, seats an audience of 200.

The young port of Gdynia, founded in 1922, was the Baltic Sea’s largest port until 1938. In those years, Gdynia was a mere village, but the port gave rise to a city, which is why the city blends so well with the port. The city center features a wide avenue that leads to the Gdansk Bay.

Ships dock at Francuskie Quay, Polskie Quay, or Pomorski Quay. The first two quays are about one mile from the city center. The latter is near the waterfront zone that city residents refer to as “The Square.” The area features Poland’s best-known maritime symbols: Gdynia Aquarium, featuring the marine life and plants from around the world; and the Frigate “Dar Pomorza,” a three-masted frigate from 1909; ORP Blyskawica, a World War II destroyer. Within 15 minutes walking distance is a nature reserve.

Situated on the southern coast of Finland, Helsinki is a gate between East and West.

Finland’s capital city embodies much of the Finnish spirit and its progressive hi-tech push but also is unlike any other Finnish city, due in part to the combination of Swedish and Russian influences.

Popular tours and excursions visit Sibelius’ Home and Art Nouveau locations; the Old Wooden Town of Porvoo; Mustio Manor and Fiskars Ironworks; or the countryside. A day trip to the Arctic Circle can also be arranged.

Founded in the year 1000, Oslo always has been a sheltered port. Norway’s capital city lies in the heart of Scandinavia and at the head of the 61-mile long Oslo fjord. Ships takes approximately four hours from the entrance of the fjord to the city center, sailing through cultivated land dominated by green hills and small houses.

Dominating the port is the Akershus Fortress, a medieval castle and royal residence built in 1299. The cruise port is next to the medieval fortress and City Hall, along a beautiful waterfront with shops, restaurants and entertainment.

A gift from Danish king Knut the Holy, Helsingborg was founded in 1085. Dominating the city skyline, Karnan Tower dates from the medieval ages. On the waterfront is the beautiful Dunker Culture Center (pictured). Large ships dock in the South Harbor, less than two miles from the city center, while small ships are able to dock near the city center.

Maritime and ship museums are a part of the living history in the sea-faring nations of the Baltic Cruising Region. Visitors enthralled by Stockholm’s Vasa Museum (pictured) will also want to see Oslo’s ship museums: The Polarship Fram Museum, featuring the entire original Arctic exploration ship FRAM, built in 1892, exhibited with its original interior and objects; Kon-Tiki Museum, containing the original vessel and objects from Thor Heyerdahl’s many exhibitions, including famous Kon-Tiki raft from 1947 and the papyrus raft RA II from 1970; and The Viking Ship Museum, featuring the restored Oseberg, Gokstad and Tune ships as well as other findings from royal burial mounds around the Oslo Fjord.

Turku’s Forum Marinum features famous vessels such as Suomen Joutsen (The Swan of Finland), the mine ship Keihässalmi and the beautiful bark, Sigyn. Malmo’s Medieval Ships Center features the reconstruction of two medieval cogs (ships used for transportation and trade on the Baltic Sea). The wrecks, one being the world’s largest cog, were found in the Malmö harbor during an excavation.

The Karlskrona Naval Shipyard (pictured) is one of few dockyards in the world where it is still possible to see buildings and docks specially designed for the construction of sailing warships. Karlskrona’s National Naval Museum dates back to 1752 when Adolf Fredrik, then the King of Sweden, decreed that a Ship’s Model Room be established. Ever since, the museum has been charged with the collection and preservation of artifacts that document the history and development of the Swedish Navy. The Museum houses a unique collection of figureheads.

Kalmar is home to the Royal Warship Kronan, once one of Sweden’s largest royal warships, which exploded and sank in 1686 during a battle off the coast of the Island of Öland. The wreck was located in 1981. Each year since, professional divers find new parts from the wreck that reveal more about the life on board. More than 25,000 finds are now on display at the exhibition, including several canons and Sweden’s largest gold coin discovery.

Gdynia features the Frigate “Dar Pomorza,” a three-masted frigate from 1909 and the ORP Blyskawica, a World War II destroyer. Denmark’s Maritime Museum at Kronborg illustrates the Danish merchant and shipping history form the medieval age to the present (the museum will be relocated in 2006).

Founded in 1218, the Hanseatic city Rostock is approached at the seaside resort Warnemunde, where most cruise ships dock. Warnemunde was famed for its baths and spas in the 20th century. Ships pass a lighthouse and wide, sandy beaches to reach the port, where in 1860, the Baltic’s largest fleet of sailing ships was based.

Though the port and city are one, Rostock is about six miles from the port. Transit to the city center ranges from about 20 minutes (by land) or 40 minutes (by boat). Rostock features one of Europe’s first universities, a town wall and gothic churches, while Warnemunde offers restaurants, cafes, bars and shops, all within walking distance of the docks.

Founded in 1550 by Sweden’s King Gustav, Helsinki was developed as a harbor town to compete for Baltic trade with Tallinn. The Finnish capital developed around the port.

Situated in the city center, South Harbor is the central cruise passenger traffic hub. Cruise ships dock at Katajanokka or other quays within walking distance of the city center and the Kauppatori Market Square, a colorful way to begin exploration of Helsinki.

The largest cruise ships dock at Hernesaari in West Harbor, from where shuttle buses take passengers in ten minutes to the city center

One of Sweden’s oldest cities, Kalmar’s port activities date back more than 1,000 years. In the Middle Ages, the port played an important role with its strategic location on the Kalmarsund trade route. Trade with the Hanseatic League was robust, imbuing Kalmar with Germanic atmosphere.

The Port of Kalmar is situated in a sheltered position, adjacent to the shipping lane in Kalmar Sound. The port can be approached from either north or south. On the northern approach cruise passengers see Borgholm Castle before passing under Öland’s bridge – one of the longest bridges in Europe. Arriving from the south, Kalmar Castle (pictured) greets cruise passengers.

Smaller and medium sized cruise ships moor at the quay in the middle of the town, while larger cruise ships anchor just south of the port and must tender passengers ashore. The quay and tender landing are situated within walking distance to shops and cafés. Walking distance to the Old Town, Kalmar Castle and the town park is ten minutes.

Klaipeda was united with Lithuania only in 1923, and even then was closed to tourists during 50 years of Soviet rule following World War II. Today, as the only Lithuanian port, Klaipeda holds a position of great importance to Lithuania’s economics and its connection to the rest of the world.

Cruise ships coming to Klaipeda catch sight not only of the reconstructed port entrance but also of the Curonian Spit National park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Entering the port itself, passengers see the Lithuanian Maritime Museum, the only museum of the kind in the Baltic States.

The cruise terminal (built in 2003) is situated by a medieval city castle in the historic city center. A rotating bridge, built in 1855 with reverted iron trusses, cast iron columns and manual rotation mechanism, permits entry into Klaipeda.

Early settlers were in the region surrounding Tallinn more than 3,500 years ago, and in 1154, an Arabian geographer marked Tallinn on the world map. A member of the Hanseatic League from 1285, Tallinn was among the most important Hanseatic trading towns, along with Lübeck, Visby and Riga.

Luxury furs, wax and honey from Russia were delivered westward through Tallinn’s port, while salt from Portugal and woolen fabrics from England and Flanders came through Tallinn on their eastward route.

Cruise ships approach Tallinn passing the town wall, church spires and the red-tiled rooftops of the Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The same basic cityscape was seen by seafarers centuries ago. Ships typically dock within walking distance of the city center.

A Viking community once existed in the town that became Visby in 1203. The Swedish port is approached between two breakwaters. Cruise ships pass the ferry harbor and then the Inner Harbor, near the city center, as well as the town wall and its towers, old homes on a hillside, and the Cathedral of Visby. Ships dock within a few minutes walk of the city center.

Situated on Sweden’s southwest coast, Karlskrona has been home to the Royal Swedish Navy since the 17th century. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the city features a well-preserved dockyard and fortification, as well as a town layout that dates back to the Baroque period.

Excursions from Karlskrona include archipelago cruises, featuring a stop at Kungsholm fortress; tours to Sweden’s crystal center; and Brändaholm, a popular area for walks.

Lithuania’s oldest city, Klaipeda is situated at the mouth of the river Dane, in the country’s western part, a region famous for its summer resorts, sandy beaches and pine forests, especially along the Curonian Spit. The inland countryside is heavily wooded and green.

Excursions include Nida, a resort town in Neringa that features Europe’s highest sand dunes; Nerginga Nature Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage Site; Juodkrante, a resort town featuring the Hill of Witches, a park of wooden sculptures depicting Lithuanian fairy-tales; Palanga, home of the famous Amber Museum housed in the 19th century mansion of Count Tishkevichius; and Village Life Lapiai, a preserved collective farm.

Visitors will find a wide selection of museums, galleries and shops (including tax-free shopping for both EU and non-EU citizens). Fine and affordable dining abounds at restaurants, cafes and bars. No fewer than six restaurants have earned Michelin stars. Oslo is home to the Nobel Peace Prize.

Founded by Peter the Great in 1703, St. Petersburg is situated at the mouth of the Neva River. The city became one of Russia’s largest cruise ship ports and the country’s only gateway to the Baltic Sea, which is why St. Petersburg is called the Marine Capital of Russia. The city is characterized by so many rivers and canals that St. Petersburg often is called the Venice of the North.

Ships pass forts, cathedrals, palaces and other attractions on the transit to the berth in the center of the city.

First mentioned around 1260, Malmo grew into a town in the 14th century and became wealthy due to the herring trade with Hanseatic cities. Now it trades primarily with its neighbor across the sound, Copenhagen, as well as internationally

The Copenhagen Malmö Port is a unique cross border alliance. For the first time in history, two ports in two different countries have joined into one company, one organization and one legal entity.

Copenhagen Malmö Port is situated in Øresund at the entrance to the Baltic Sea. Ships enter Malmö either from south via “Flinterenden,” coming from the Baltic/Russia or from North Copenhagen, Norway or Kiel Canal.

Smaller ships dock within walking distance of the city center. At the entrance of the port, ships pass the spectacular Turning Torso, the tallest building in Sweden.

Crusaders and German merchants sailed into the area that would become Riga in 1201. From that point on, trade flourished, and Riga became a major port. Dominating the skyline are church steeples and the high-rise building known as Sun Stone on the bank of the River Daugava, the oldest part of an international trade route between the Baltic and Black seas.

Vanshu Bridge connects the two banks of the river, and behind the bridge is Riga Castle. Most cruise ships dock at the city center, a 10-minute walk from the old town.

Founded in 1200, Stockholm started out as a port destination. Built on 14 islands, Sweden’s capital city often is called the “City That Floats On Water.” The Baltic Sea meets Lake Malaren in Stockholm’s Old Town, giving the city not only a reach into the Swedish countryside but also to the rest of the world via the sea. The waterways have always served as important transport lanes to and from the city.

The journey to Stockholm’s city center begins nearly 50 miles east, at the tip of a beautiful archipelago comprised of 30,000 islands, islets and rocks. Many of the islands are uninhabited, rocky outcrops that are homes only to birds. Others have quaint red-and-white Swedish cottages.

Once docked at one of several locations in Stockholm, cruise passengers find it easy to make their way (by foot or taxi) to Stockholm’s Old Town and the city’s other attractions. Ships too large to navigate the archipelago safely must dock one hour’s bus ride away.

Founded in 1229 (or at least that is the date that documents mention a marketplace in this part of Finland — Turku, in fact, translates to “market”). Turku is approached through an archipelago of 40,000 islands and islets before passing the Ruissalo nature park en route to the port.

Less than two miles from the city center, the port offers cruise passengers shuttle and taxi service to the city center, or cruise passengers may walk along a promenade to the center. Next to the port is Turku Castle, dating back to the 1280s.

Copenhagen, Denmark
Located in northern Europe between the North Sea and Baltic Sea, Denmark is the only Scandinavian country connected to the European mainland. The Jutland peninsula shares a border with Germany. Otherwise, Denmark is an island kingdom (more than 400 islands in all). The Danish capital Copenhagen is on the island of Sealand.

The beginning or ending port for most Baltic Sea cruises, Copenhagen’s proximity to the airport and port is excellent — with Europe’s fastest and cheapest airport-to-city-center rail link (just 12 minutes for about $5). Safe, friendly and clean, Copenhagen is easy to get around on foot or on bike. Bike rentals are available at the Central Station, and the city also makes available 2,500 city bikes, available for anyone to use free of charge.

As the capital of Denmark, Copenhagen has a cosmopolitan atmosphere featuring international cuisine and the world’s longest pedestrian shopping street, with tax-free shopping for non-European Union citizens. In the middle of the shopping district is a Cruise VIP Lounge where guests may have a free coffee or tea and leave shopping bags to pick up later. Many Copenhageners speak English.

Cruise facilities are well equipped, with a tourist information office at the pier, and close to the city center. It is possible to walk from the central pier, Langelinie, to the city center in about 30 minutes, passing many of Copenhagen’s central attractions along the way.

Popular tours and excursions include North Zealand Castle Tour, featuring “Hamlet’s” castle in Helsingor.

Situated in north-central Poland, Gdnyia grew from a small fishing village in 1924 to the largest Baltic Sea port in 1938. Known as the “White City,” for its 1920s and 1930s architecture that drew largely on ship elements, Gdnyia is one of few examples of a port giving rise to a city.

Excursions include the Teutonic castle in Malbork; Slowiski National Park, often referred to as the Polish Sahara because of its huge dunes; the tri-City agglomeration, Gdynia, Gdask and Sopot; and Kosterina, in the Kashubian Lake District.

Situated on the strait of Öresund (the Sound), Helsingborg, Sweden, and Elsinore, Denmark are separated by a mere 2.5-mile stretch of water and a 20-minute ferry ride. Each represents the 10th largest towns in their respective countries.

The similarities and differences of the two towns make visiting each worthwhile. “Round the sound” allows visitors, particularly those on pre- and post-cruises from Copenhagen, to visit both countries in one day.

Excursions include the Castle Tour of North Zealand; and North Zealand’s Royal Parks and Public Gardens; and on the Swedish side: scenic tour of Northwest Skåne and the Kulla peninsula; Castles in Skåne; and Seal & Speedboatsafari on Kattegat.

Kalmar is situated in the county of Småland, in southeastern Sweden. One port, three destinations (Kalmar, Öland and Orrefors), Kalmar offers visitors a rich historical heritage as well as world-class art and design, including handmade Swedish crystal from Orrefors Glassworks. The southern part of Öland (pictured) is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Excursions include Orrefors Glass Museum & Exhibition Hall, where visitors enjoy watching craftsmen transform glowing melt into crystal masterpieces and have the chance to purchase crystal products in the tax-free shop; Himmelsberga Museum, an Öland village preserved as a folklore museum; Paradisverkstaden, a ceramics center; Vida Museum; Borgholm Castle; Palace of Solliden, an Italian-style white palace, built by Queen Victoria of Sweden in 1903-06, still used as a summer residence by the Swedish Royal Family; the Village of Eketorp, an ancient settlement that has been reconstructed within the original ring wall; and Ottenby, on the south of the island of Öland, one of the top areas for bird watching in Sweden (Visit the tourist exhibition center Ottenby Naturum to learn more about the wildlife and culture of the area.)

Sweden’s third largest city, Malmo is situated in the country’s southernmost county, Skåne. Malmo’s proximity to Copenhagen makes quick travel to the Danish capital, about 35 minutes by train. The Öresund Bridge also connects Malmo and Copenhagen.

Excursions from Malmo include Copenhagen and Lund.

The large port of Rostock played an important role in the Hanseatic League in the Middle Ages. The economic power from trade gave rise to culture and education. The city houses one of Europe’s oldest universities, founded in 1419. The university gave Rostock the name “The Northern Light.”

Excursions from Rostock include Berlin.

Situated on the coast of the Gulf of Finland, in the estuary of the Neva River and on the islands of the Neva Delta, St. Petersburg is the world’s largest megapolis situated so far north.

One of the younger cities in the Baltic region, Russia’s second largest city is just over 300 years old (founded in 1703). During its history, St. Petersburg accumulated all the grandeur of the Russian Imperial Court.

Located on 44 islands formed by the Neva River and 90 more rivers and canals. St. Petersburg is known as the Venice of the North.

Because many cruise ships overnight (some for two nights) in St. Petersburg, excursions often include overland adventures and flights to Moscow — the capital of Russia — and other destinations.

Even experienced travelers sometimes confuse the Baltic with the Balkans. The two regions could not be more different. The Balkans fought long and drawn-out wars for most of the 1990s, The Baltics, on the other hand, remained peaceful, stable, safe and clean — just as they are today.

One of the world’s most popular and fastest-growing cruise destinations, the Baltic cruising region refers to the Baltic Sea, which stretches from southern Denmark to near the Arctic Circle. Along its shores are some of the world’s most fabled cities — Copenhagen, Stockholm, Helsinki, St. Petersburg, to name a few. All share a common climate, with the cruise season running from May through September, and a common history.

Cruise passengers set foot in lands once inhabited by kings and queens (who still exist in some of the Baltic countries), of Viking warriors and German merchants, of Tsars and seafaring wanderers. In many cities visitors see reminders of a time long ago: medieval town walls, cobblestone streets, castles, palaces and museums that house age-old artifacts.

The past decades have brought great change in the Baltics. Former Soviet-bloc countries in the Baltic region now embrace cruise passengers, and even though English is typically spoken as a second language in many of the port destinations, cruise passengers will hear a variety of tongues spoken as they stroll city streets.

Copenhagen and Stockholm, the Baltic Cruising Region’s primary turnaround ports (where most cruises begin or end), not only are conveniently connected to the rest of the world but also conveniently connected between the airports and the city centers and cruise terminals. Infrastructure is among the best in the world, and Copenhagen boasts not only the world’s best airport (according to one survey of travelers) but also Europe’s cheapest and fastest airport-to-city-center connections.

You might say that with all that is has going for it, the Baltics were “tailor-made for cruises.” Cruise passengers certainly think so. Year after year, they return in record numbers to cruise one of the world’s greatest destinations.

The capital of Estonia, Tallinn is located in the Baltic Sea region across the Gulf of Finland less than 50 miles south of Helsinki. Tallinn has managed to preserve its thousand-year old beauty.

The Old Town has withstood a series of events ranging from Viking plundering and crusades to wars and occupations. With its miles of winding cobblestone streets and quaint medieval houses, Tallinn is the best-preserved old town in Northern Europe and has been on UNESCO’s World Heritage List since 1997.

Excursions include Lahemaa National Park.

Situated in the southwest corner of Finland, where two gulfs of the Baltic sea meet - the Gulf of Finland and the Gulf of Bothnia - Turku is Finland’s oldest city.

Once the country’s capital city, Turku boasts a beautiful medieval castle, a fine cathedral and stylish boat restaurants. One of the most superb archipelagos in Europe opens up from the coast of Turku and stretches out into the Baltic Sea.

Excursions include Ox Road-Medieval Tour; Middle Ages from the Sauna to the Church; the Route of War and Peace; an Afternoon with Sibelius; Guided Tour in the City Center of Turku; and Historical Turku, from the Viking Days to the Manor Era.

Visby was for a long time the natural meeting point for sailors and merchants from all over the Baltic region. Today, visitors enjoy the majestic merchants houses from 17th and 18th century along with almost 200 stone buildings – some of them dating back from the 12th century. More than 2,000 people inhabit the old town, which offers a variety of shops, cafés and restaurants.

Excursions include Northern Gotland and its sea stacks (called Rauk); Lummelunda Caves; Roma Kings Manor and Monastery Ruin; Ljugarn classic village; Herrvik fishing port; and Hoburgsgubben (The Hoburg Man), a famous sea stack.

Though the two regions share similar-sounding names, the Baltics are not to be confused with the Balkans. The Balkans are comprised of countries (such as Yugoslavia, Greece and Turkey) on the Balkan Peninsula in the southern reaches of Europe. The Baltics, by contrast, are situated at the same northerly latitude as Anchorage, Alaska. Countries bounding the Baltic Sea and its arms, clockwise from the west, are Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Russia, Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Poland and Germany.

The Baltic cruising region is characterized by a variety of landscapes - low, rocky islands called skerries along the coasts of Sweden and Finland, Norwegian fjords, lagoons, inlets, and some of the world’s most fabled cities. On the far eastern edge of the Baltic Sea, Peter the Great’s “window to Europe,” St. Petersburg, is situated at the head of the Gulf of Finland. On the western edge of the Baltic Sea, Elsinore, Denmark, lays claim to Kronborg Castle, the setting for Shakespeare’s “Hamlet.” The Scandinavian capitals of Copenhagen and Stockholm, with their myriad attractions, serve as transportation hubs and are where most Baltic cruises begin or end.

One of the world’s most popular cruising regions, the Baltics also are one of the world’s fastest growing cruise markets. Annually, for several years running, port destinations in the Baltics have set records both in the number of cruise ship calls and the number of cruise ship passengers visiting ports.

Nearly all of the major cruise lines offer Baltic itineraries. Most cruise itineraries span seven days or longer and visit several port destinations during a single sailing. Pre- and post-cruise stays are popular, particularly in the primary turnaround ports (where Baltic cruises begin or end) of Copenhagen and Stockholm. Some cruise lines overnight one or more nights in port, particularly in St. Petersburg.

Precipitation averages 20 to 24 inches annually throughout much of the Baltic. By contrast, Ketchikan, Alaska, at roughly the same latitude, receives 150 inches of rain annually. Statistically, Oslo is the Baltics’ sunniest capital.

In these northerly latitudes, the sky does not darken during June and July until 2 a.m. — and then only slightly, allowing cruise passengers in many of the Baltic Sea destinations to experience “endless” summer days and “white nights.”

The Baltic Sea and the landmasses surrounding it were exposed when the Scandinavian ice sheet retreated toward the Arctic roughly 10,000 years ago. Perhaps the best known of the early settlers were the Vikings, also called Norseman, seafaring warriors who raided and colonized wide regions of Europe between the 9th and 11th centuries. The Vikings opened the Baltic to trade and were followed in the late Middle Ages by German merchants of the Hanseatic League, which dominated the Baltic in the 13th and 15th centuries.

Throughout the Baltic Seas’ history, a succession of wars were fought, primarily between Sweden and Denmark, for control of the Baltic trade routes. In the 16th and 17th centuries, the Swedish empire encompassed nearly all of the Baltic Sea. Russia and Prussia became the leading powers in the Baltic Sea during the 18th century. In 1703, Peter the Great founded his strategic outpost, St. Petersburg, on the Gulf of Finland, an arm of the Baltic Sea.

In the mid-19th-century Crimean War, a joint fleet of Great Britain and France attacked Russian fortresses guarding St. Petersburg. Nearly a century later, Russian submarines torpedoed refugee ships in the Baltic Sea during World War II.

The countries surrounding the Baltic are bound together by a common sea and a common history. They have been united — and sometimes torn apart — through wars, empire-building and also trade. While wars and empire-building have long ended, those events left behind indelible reminders throughout the Baltic region – particularly in architecture, in customs and in lifestyles to some degree.

Trade between the Baltic nations, however, is thriving, perhaps now more than ever before. Initiated in 2004, the Cruise Baltic Project represents the invigorated spirit of trade and cooperation in the region. The initiative is built equally upon a common sea and a common trade history. Today, cruise ships follow the same routes as traders followed hundreds, and even thousands, of years ago.

Also in 2004, Estonia, Lithuania, Latvia and Poland joined the European Union, further strengthening cooperation within the region. Of the port cities surrounding the Baltic Sea, only Oslo and St. Petersburg are non-EU areas.

Though English as a second language is spoken throughout much of the Baltic Sea, particularly among the young and in tourist areas, the primary languages are Finnish, Swedish, Estonian, Latvian, Russian, Norwegian, Danish, Lithuanian and Polish.

Interesting facts about languages spoken in the Baltic Sea region:

The Lithuanian language is the oldest living Indo European language. Its grammar structure is related to the archaic Sanskrit or Latin.

The Scandinavian languages Swedish, Danish and Norwegian have most words and grammatical features in common, so that Norwegians, Danes and Swedes often converse with one another in their own languages.

Swedish was used in Finnish education, government and literature until the end of the 19th century. Finnish, closely related to the Estonian language, gradually became the predominant language, but the country is officially bi-lingual with higher education and a rich cultural life in both Finnish and Swedish.

German belongs to the same language family as English, Frisian and Netherlandic (which includes Dutch and Flemish). The first recorded use of Germanic languages was during contact with the Romans in the 1st century BC.

Polish is closely related to Czech, Slovak and the Sorbian languages of eastern Germany. The first written Polish appeared as a list of names in the Papal Bull issued in 1136.

Latvian belongs to the Indo-European languages that also include Lithuanian and the extinct Old Prussian, Yotvingian, Curonian, Selonian and Semigallian languages.

Russian, the primary language of Russia, is divided into the Northern group (stretching from St. Petersburg eastward across Siberia), the Southern group (in most of central and southern Russia), and the Central group (between Northern and Southern).

Estonia has witnessed a large-scale migration of peoples. Those battling through (Danes, Germans, Swedes, Poles and Russians) or traveling through doubtlessly left their marks on the Estonians’ way of thinking, their character and language. In the course history, Estonian has borrowed from Low German, High German, Swedish and Russian.

The standard of living varies greatly within the Baltic Sea region. The Scandinavian countries enjoy the world’s highest standards of living. Social systems feature subsidized (or government assisted) health care, generous unemployment benefits and retirement pensions.

The high standard of living benefits tourists, who find diverse dining, shopping and sight-seeing opportunities as well as well-developed port and transportation infrastructure to accommodate cruise ship passengers.

After the collapse of communism, many of the former Soviet-block countries began to rebuild their economies through enterprise such as tourism. Baltic cruises have brought tourist dollars as well as harbor development that extends into the city centers and beyond.

The prospect for many former Soviet-bloc countries has further brightened since they joined the European Union (Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania and Poland joined only in 2004). The Economist recently cited Estonia “as the biggest, most complicated, and most promising piece of the new Europe.”

For cruise passengers, most of the Baltic Sea ports are close to the city centers and attractions. Many piers and terminals are within walking distance of the city centers. Others are only a short transit away.

Public transport in the Baltic Sea region is safe, reliable, clean and cheap. Of the to turn-around ports Copenhagen and Stockholm, Copenhagen has the fastest and cheapest airport-to-city-center rail link of any European capital: just 13 minutes and about US $5. Its primary cruise terminal, Langelinie, is within walking distance of the major sites in Copenhagen. Some ships dock at Freeport Cruise Terminal, a 10- to 15-minute shuttle or taxi ride away from the city center.

Stockholm’s city center can be reached from the airport in about 20 minutes on the Arlanda Express for under $30 per person. Stockholm has numerous docking facilities, with the farthest being a one-hour transit away from the city center. Most ships, however, dock at the city center, within walking distance of Stockholm’s primary attractions.

In some port destinations, cycling is popular. In Copenhagen, for example, you will find cycle paths alongside virtually every street, as well as free city bikes available to borrow from stands throughout the city from spring to autumn.

Copenhagen and Stockholm are the primary ports of embarkation and disembarkation for all Baltic cruises. Nearly all cruises begin or end in one of these Scandinavian capitals. Both have excellent air connections with the rest of the world.

In 1998, Copenhagen Airport was extended with a new terminal. In 2002, 80,000 passengers voted Copenhagen Airport the world’s best airport.

Stockholm’s Arlanda International Airport is located 26 miles north of the city. The largest airport in Scandinavia, it has five terminals and hosts 63 airlines that fly to and from 118 international destinations.

Stockholm may just be the most beautiful city in the world to reach by water.

If you are in Stockholm for a few days, you surely will want to venture out to the archipelago on ships that depart from the city center. It’s about a two-hour journey to Sandhamn, a small village where you can take lunch at Sandhamns Vardshus before setting out on kayaks for smaller, uninhabited islands just a few miles away. Return to relax in the sauna before boarding the ship back to Stockholm. The experience is quintessentially Swedish and one that should not be missed.

Most ships transit the archipelago to reach Stockholm’s city center. Some, however, dock at Nynashamn, about an hour’s drive from Stockholm’s city center. If your ship docks at the city center (or if you’re staying pre- or post-cruise), make your way to the Grand Hotel, a 30-minute easy walk from the terminal. Along the way, stop at the medieval old town, Gamla Stan, with its charming cobblestone streets, museums, shops and restaurants, Here at Gamla Stan, you’re standing on one of 14 islands that make up this city that appears to be floating on water. Locks at Gamla Stan separate Lake Malaren (60 miles long) from the Baltic Sea.

Spend a few hours in and around the old town. In the vicinity is the Nobel Museum (Stockholm is home to the Nobel Prize), the Cathedral of Stockholm, which features Scandinavia’s largest medieval monument, St. George and the Dragon, a wooden sculpture made of elk antlers and oak carved in 1489; and the Royal Palace (changing of the guard is at noon).

Stop for lunch al fresco at Martin Trotzig at Vasterlanggatan 79 in Gamla Stan or any of the many fine restaurants (try a glass of Swedish beer, Pripps), then head to the quay in front of the Grand Hotel to hop a canal cruise. A selection of cruises are offered ranging from one hour to nearly three hours.

Upon your return, continue to walk a few streets behind the Grand Hotel for about 15 minutes along Strandvagen, to the Vasa Museum, which houses a warship (the actual ship, not a model) that in 1628 sank in the harbor on its maiden voyage and was brought up from the depths in 1961. Nothing can prepare you for the scale of what you will see in the city’s most popular museum, built in 1990. Plan to spend at least two hours exploring all six floors of the exhibit.

The Vasa Museum is situated in Djurgarden, once a Royal deer park that is now home to Ekoparken, the world’s first city national park. Rent three-speed bikes at Skepp & Hoj (near the bridge that you crossed to get to the Vasa Museum) and pedal through the park.

Spend at least a couple of hours to walk through five centuries of Swedish history at Skansen, then cross the street to the amusement park known as Grona Lunds Tivoli. From just outside the amusement park, take the ferry to Slussen to appreciate Stockholm from the water and to arrive back at Gamla Stan.

Head over to City Hall, the beautiful brick building where Nobel festivities are presented each December. Of particular interest is the Golden Room and its mosaic, made of 18.5 million gold leaves. Be sure to climb the tower for spectacular city views from more than 300 feet above the ground. You can see Gamla Stan down below. It appears in the shape of a heart.

At Stadshusbron by the City Hall, board the steam-powered SS Drottningholm, built in 1909, for a voyage through Lake Malaren to Drottningholm Palace, an hour’s chug away. The palace, where building began in 1662, has been home to the Swedish Royal Family since 1981.

When you return, head to the Ice Bar, located in the Nordic Sea Hotel, near Central Station. The price of admission includes use of capes, mitts and slippers to keep you warm inside the below-freezing bar and an Absolut cocktail (or lingonberry juice) served in glasses made from ice. The Ice Bar and nearly all in it is made from 20 tons of ice from Northern Sweden’s Torne River. If you want to take home a souvenir, purchase ice glasses, packed in a special box to keep them from melting. You’ll have to rush home, though. The gifts are guaranteed for only 24 hours.

Be sure to pick up a Stockholm Card, which gives you free admission to museums (Stockholm boasts the world’s highest concentration of museums) and attractions, free sightseeing by boat, and free transportation on the subway, local buses and trains.

It’s a good thing that Stockholm enjoys 20 hours of sunlight during summers. With so much to do and see, you’re going to need it.

A few key points that you should keep in mind if you are cruising to or from Stockholm:

Most cruise passengers arrive in Stockholm at one of two places: Arlanda Airport (Stockholm serves as the initial port of departure for many cruises); or for those arriving by sea, the city center.

If your cruise is departing from Stockholm, plan to arrive at least a day before your cruise so that you can take in the sights before setting sail. Ideally, arrive two days early to see more of what Stockholm has to offer.

If you spend an extra day or two in Stockholm, be sure to pick up the Stockholm Card, a money-saving program that provides free or discounted admission to attractions and transportation within greater Stockholm.

PLEASE NOTE: Prices and exchange rates mentioned here are approximate. Rates may vary.

Q: Where Do I Find My Ship?
A: Stockholm has seven locations for docking. Most ships transit the archipelago to dock in the city center. Others dock at Nynashamn, an hour’s transit away.

Q: How Do I Get From The Airport To The City Center?
A: Most cruise lines offer transfers, but if you want to transfer on your own, Stockholm’s city center can be reached from the airport in about 20 minutes on the Arlanda Express for about $25 per person. Trains leave every 15 minutes between 5:35 a.m. and 9:05 p.m. There are frequent bus services operating between the airport and the city from 6:40 a.m. to 9:45 p.m. Travel time is 40 minutes.

Q: How Do I Get From My Ship To The City Center?
A: If your ship docks at the city center, make your way to the Grand Hotel, a 30-minute easy walk from the terminal. Along the way, stop at the medieval old town, Gamla Stan, with its charming cobblestone streets, museums, shops and restaurants, Here at Gamla Stan, you’re standing on one of 14 islands that make up this city that appears to be floating on water. Locks at Gamla Stan separate Lake Malaren (60 miles long) from the Baltic Sea.

Q: Is There A Package That Provides Admission To Various Attractions, All For One Price?
A: The Stockholm Card includes admission to museums and attractions, free travel on local public transport, free parking at municipal car parks in the city, free sightseeing by boat on selected departures during summer and an illustrated guidebook with maps and several other offers. The card can be purchased at Tourist Information Centers in Stockholm, at SL centers (SL=local transportation network), some hotels and a few sights (City Hall and the Royal Palace). The card can also be ordered on-line at www.stockholmtown.com. Choose between a 24-hour, 48-hour or a 72-hour card. Cards are available for children at reduced rates.

Q: Where Do I Find Information Once In Stockholm?
A: Stockholm has a tourist information at Sweden House, Kungstradgarden, Hamngatan 27 - and during the cruise season, near the docks, at Frihamnen 638 and at Stadsgarden 165/167.

Q: How Do I Find Information On The Web About Stockholm?
A: www.stockholmtown.com and www.stockholmcruise.com (be sure to click the icon for English if the web site appears in an unfamiliar language).

Q: Where Can I Kayak In Stockholm?
A: If you’re staying in Stockholm for more than a day, do what the locals do whenever they get an opportunity: Get out to the archipelago, which stretches nearly 50 miles east of Stockholm. Many of the islands are uninhabited, rocky outcrops that are homes to birds.

Q: Is It Possible To Bicycle In Stockholm?

Yes. Rent three-speed bikes at Skepp & Hoj (near the bridge at the Vasa Museum) and pedal through Djurgarden, once a Royal deer park that is now home to Ekoparken, the world’s first city national park.

Stockholm, Sweden
The “City That Floats On Water” is built on 14 islands, where Lake Mälaren flows into the Baltic Sea. By ship, Stockholm is approached through an archipelago of 30,000 islands and skerries, fishing villages, thousands of sailing boats and quaint red summer cottages.

Cruise ships dock in the city center, just steps away from a wealth of cultural treasures, including medieval walking streets, magnificent cathedrals, parks, theaters and open-air and indoor markets — all easily accessible by foot or public transportation. Most Stockholmers speak English.

The beginning or ending port for many Baltic Sea cruises, Stockholm boasts having Scandinavia’s largest airport — with five terminals and more than 60 airlines that fly to and from more than 100 international destinations. Stockholm’s Arlanda International Airport is located 26 miles north of the city with easy train-to-city-center connections on the Arlanda Airport Express.

Excursions around Stockholm include Sigtuna, Sweden’s oldest town; Steninge Palace and Cultural Center, featuring an 18th century palace and a national heritage stone barn; Uppsala, featuring Sweden’s oldest university and largest cathedral; Mariefred and Gripsholm Castle, with Sweden’s largest portrait collection and the country’s oldest inn; Skokloster Castle, one of Europe’s best-preserved baroque castles; and the Stockholm archipelago, with 30,000 islands, islets and rocks that can be reached by boat from Stockholm’s city center.

European cruises are like exquisite appetizers. Your ship gives you a taste of the delicious culture capitals, allowing you to decide which cities and countries are most intriguing and appealing. Each stop on the cruise ship’s itinerary is designed to provide convenient access to the primary attractions, but the cruise ship must maintain a schedule, limiting port calls to 10 hours, occasionally overnight.

For a fuller flavor of any European destination, a few extra days in one of the Continent’s great cities allows you to explore more and get a sense of the rhythms and personalities of the place. To take full advantage of the trip across the ocean, more and more experienced travelers are taking the extra time before or after their cruise, extending their stay in Europe to learn and enjoy a particular place.

A large city offering travelers and visitors many events, attractions and activities, Sweden’s capital is a friendly, attractive place built on 14 islands.

Most popular of those islands and receiving more than 10 million visitors each year, Djurgården (translated as Game Park) is an island park right in the middle of Stockholm, perfect for a pleasant two-hour stroll.

At the Vasa Museum, the restored Royal Warship Vasa, which lay at the bottom of the sea for more than 300 years after it sank on its maiden voyage in 1628, is on display with more than 4,000 coins, carpenter’s tools, sailor’s pants, fish bones and other pieces of archaeological interest retrieved along with nearly all of the ship’s 700 original sculptures.

The Nordic Museum contains fascinating exhibits of how people lived in different parts of Sweden throughout the ages, with exhibits encompassing costumes, tools, furnishings and dwellings.

A beautiful and eminently livable city, Scandinavia’s largest city was originally a fishing village that evolved into a major port of trade and is now a jewel of Northern Europe.

Despite massive 18th century fires, Copenhagen retains its charming medieval layout with plenty of Old World appeal, even as it modernizes.

There are still great buildings and 1,000 years’ worth of history to explore here, including 17th century landmarks such as the Rundetårn (Round Tower) and the Børsen (Stock Exchange).

Foremost among Copenhagen’s attractions, the Rundetårn is , an observation tower honoring astronomer Tycho Brahe, and Amalienborg Palace, the royal residence, incorporates four Rococo mansions.

Other can’t-miss sights include the Rådhus (Town Hall), with its ornate interior and gilded statue of Bishop Absalon (founder of Copenhagen), and the Royal Library, whose black-granite exterior is a beacon of modernity.

Of course, no feature is more visible than Tivoli, the city’s much-loved amusement park and a destination for culture, sociability, and dining as much as for thrilling entertainments.

I even found a convenient way to get to the city center to rent my bike. Outside my hotel room, Radisson SAS Scandinavia, I found two city bikes. Copenhagen has 2,500 “City Bikes” that anyone can pedal away on simply by inserting a DKK 20 coin into the bike’s locking mechanism. Lock your bike upon return at any of 110 bike-parking stations to retrieve your coin.

Or just lean your bike against a wall if you can’t find a station. Don’t worry: Someone else will return it. Of course, they’ll also collect your DKK 20 coin. Oh, and don’t take the city bikes out of the City Bike Zone, or you will be fined.

The city bike wasn’t the bike that would win the Tour de France. The tires could have used a few more pounds of pressure, and the bike clanked with each revolution of the pedals. It was shy of material for my 6′ 5″ frame. My knees knocked my chin with each pedal. I had to stand on the pedals for most of the ride, but luckily, I wasn’t going far.

The city bike would have attracted all sorts of snickering back home, but no one gave me a second look here. Cycling in Copenhagen is more of a utilitarian activity than a fitness event. Copenhagen commuters ride all sorts of bikes, in various degrees of disrepair. Some cyclists straddled nice bikes, yes, but the majority were “beaters,” bikes that, if stolen, would not send the owner into lasting despair.

Copenhagen cyclists wore utilitarian clothing as well. There wasn’t a great deal of lycra or cycling jerseys or even cycling shoes. Most cyclists wore the clothes they would wear to work or for a night out. I found that cyclists in Copenhagen and in Amsterdam generally don’t wear helmets, and I did not either.

Even without helmets, statistically, these cities are much safer than cycling in the United States. According to Bicycling magazine, Dutch bike commuters are 30 times less likely to be killed on their bikes than their stateside counterparts. I suspect Danish commuters are equally as safe.

I abandoned my city bike, not at a station, but by leaning it against a wall. It felt odd to walk away, but I did so. I walked inside and rented a worthy bike for my ride up the coast.

Finding Bliss in the Baltic

SOMEWHERE IN THE BALTIC SEA, July 1 — It is near midnight, or at least that it is what my watch tells me. The sun and sky suggest otherwise. The bright orange orb hovers over the watery horizon, casting a reddish-yellow glow on a cloudless sky.

My (then) wife and I stand on our stateroom balcony waiting for the sun to dip below the horizon. Our body clocks are out of sync, six times zones east of our home (we’ll lose two more hours as the clock moves forward one hour on each of the first two nights of our cruise from Copenhagen).

The sun seems that it will never set, even as the clock ticks — and ticks.

What a mysterious and enchanting region of the world. We are cruising at the same latitude as the Alaska Panhandle, yet aside from the midsummer sky that hardly darkens, the Baltic Sea’s similarities to Alaska are few.

For starters, we will visit not one but six countries during our cruise. Our ship will disgorge us in some of the world’s most fabled cities.

On the Baltic Sea’s eastern edge, at the head of the Gulf of Finland, we will explore Peter the Great’s St. Petersburg — for two days. No less impressive is the Baltic Sea’s western edge, marked by Elsinore, Denmark, which lays claim to Kronborg Castle, the setting for Shakespeare’s “Hamlet.”

In between and along the shores of the Baltic are fairy tale lands. Copenhagen gave the world Hans Christian Andersen, Sweden gave us Astrid Lindgren, creator of “Pippi Longstocking.”

Indeed, having inserted ourselves into the comfortable fuselage of an SAS jet to travel across the Atlantic and step out on Danish soil seven hours later felt like a fairy tale. It still amazes me that I can leave a small city in America and wake up the next morning in Europe.

Our days were sunny and hot (not once would we pull out the fleece we had packed). And though we had not a single day of rain on our cruise, precipitation throughout the Baltic averages 24 inches annually. By contrast, Ketchikan receives 150 inches of rain yearly.

While we would see no snow-capped mountains or glaciers, we would stroll wide pedestrian streets free of cars, sip coffee at charming outdoor cafes, suck up nearly 20 hours of sunshine each day, marvel at world class museums, stand among opulent palaces and walk along well-preserved medieval town walls.

For two weeks (a 10-night cruise combined with four nights in Copenhagen), we would live a fairy tale in these enchanting lands.

Our fairy tale began in Copenhagen, where we popped out the front door of our hotel (The Phoenix, near trendy Nyhavn) and smack into a procession of toy-soldier-like sentries making their way to the Royal Palace for the changing of the guard at noon. Here, I told my children, lives a real queen. They looked up at me with mouths agape. It was the first of many surprises for them during our blissful Baltic cruise.

As we stood on our balcony waiting for the sunset, Westerdam was charting a course for Tallinn, capital of Estonia. The Economist recently cited Estonia “as the biggest, most complicated, and most promising piece of the new Europe.”

I’m not sure what we expected of Tallinn, but we were awed by what we saw. Although the ancient architecture could have fooled us into thinking our ship had arrived in the Middle Ages, the exuberance of the local people and the bustle of tourist activity suggested that we had arrived on the threshold of the city’s epoch. And we probably had.

Although Soviet occupation ended in 1991, it was only in 2004 that Estonia — along with neighboring Latvia, Lithuania and Poland — joined the European Union. In 1154, an Arabian geographer marked Tallinn on the world map. The town quickly became an important trade town.

In Hanseatic times, luxury furs, wax and honey from Russia were delivered through Tallinn’s port, while salt from Portugal and woolen fabrics from England and Flanders came through on their eastward route.

Our ship approached a cityscape that might have been familiar to those seafarers of long ago: red-tiled rooftops, church spires and the onion domes of Russian Orthodox churches. We docked within walking distance of the Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With its miles of winding cobblestone streets and quaint medieval houses, Tallinn is the best-preserved Old Town in Northern Europe.

We climbed the vertigo-inducing circular stairs at St. Olav’s church for a view that was worth the challenge. Only 50 miles across the sea (18 minutes by helicopter from city center to city center) we could see Helsinki. We would be there soon, after our next stop: Peter the Great’s city.

Unless you are booked on a cruise line shore excursion, you need a visa before leaving home to visit St. Petersburg. To clarify, cruise passengers who book cruise line shore excursions do not need visas. Everyone else does. Because of the visa requirement and the slow churn of Russian bureaucracy, prepare to stand in line when leaving the pier.

Two forlorn customs officials stamped passports for nearly 2,000 passengers disembarking our ship. We stood for nearly 45 minutes before it was our turn. The wait, of course, was worthwhile.

Founded by Peter the Great in 1703 and shortly thereafter becoming the capital of Russia, St. Petersburg accumulated all the grandeur of the Russian Imperial Court, and in two days, we saw quite a lot of it with our private car and guide. We began our tour at Peterhof palace, about an hour’s drive from the pier.

There, we wandered the formal gardens and grounds, with 62 cascading fountains and 142 water jets that shower gilded statues.

We were glad we had our camera — not only for the grounds but also for actors in period costumes who pose for photographs.

Tour guides recommend combining Peterhof with the lavishly baroque Catherine Palace, where the Amber Room opened in 2003. The 18th-century hall’s amber panels vanished in WWII and took decades to replicate using six tons of amber.

St. Petersburg’s museums are among the world’s most famous. The Hermitage boasts some 400 rooms containing more than 3 million exhibits Catherine began the collection in 1764 with only 225 pieces. “If you spent one second looking at each exhibit, you would spend seven years seeing it all,” our tour guide told us. “So we just do the masterpieces of the masterpieces: artworks by da Vinci, Michelangelo and Rembrant.”

Of course, you’ll want to walk inside several churches, the most interesting for us being the ornate neo-Byzantine Church on Spilled Blood, constructed on the very spot where tsar Alexander II was assassinated in 1881.

The next morning while walking around Helsinki, we were surprised to see a train marked “St. Petersburg.”

It’s an overnight trip by train between the two cities. Traveling in the other direction, Stockholm is an overnight ferry away, which is why Helsinki is a gate between East and West.

Finland’s capital city embodies much of the Finnish spirit but also is unlike any other Finnish city, because of the combined Swedish and Russian influences.

Founded in 1550 by Sweden’s King Gustav, Helsinki was developed as a harbor town to compete for Baltic trade with Tallinn. The Finnish capital developed around the port.

Situated in the city center, South Harbor is the cruise passenger traffic hub. Cruise ships dock within walking distance of the city center and Helsinki’s famous Kauppatori Market Square, a colorful way to begin exploration of Helsinki. We dined on fresh berries, tried on fur hats and browsed such specialties as reindeer and canned bear meat.

The largest cruise ships dock at Hernesaari in West Harbor, 10 minutes by shuttle bus to the city center. We walked to the city center, however, in 30 minutes.

Once there, we purchased a one-day City Card, which gave us free access to sights, museums and public transport, including the Tourist Tram 3T, which makes a 60-minute roundtrip from Market Square and passes most of the city’s “must-see” sights, including the Senate Square and its beautiful cathedral.

Helsinki is a pocket-size metropolis, so you can see a lot in a short time. Someone suggested we try “Nordic Walking.” We weren’t aware that people here walked any differently from us, but apparently those who do Nordic Walking do.

The activity developed because a ski pole manufacturer wanted to increase the market for its poles. Thus, ski poles were modified for walking. It’s easy going but takes coordination. Gripping the poles, you lightly push off with each step forward so that the activity provides a slight upper-body workout.

We pushed our poles around one of Helsinki’s most popular parks on paths skirting Toolonlahti Bay. It was certainly a memorable activity but one that takes practice, although you’re likely to be the only one practicing if you return home with Nordic Walking sticks.

For something more practical that we could return home with, we walked the Esplanade to find Helsinki’s best shopping. A typical souvenir: wooden butter knives. “Everyone in Finland uses them,” a Finnish friend told us before our trip. And so we purchased a couple to bring home.

With our City Card, we hopped the ferry to Suomenlinna Fortress, a UNESCO World Heritage Site founded in 1748 and built on six islands off the coast of Helsinki. Aside from the garrison and museums, we found charming cafes and cozy restaurants.

With too little time to see more of the “pocket-size” metropolis, we hopped the ferry back after only a couple of hours and boarded the Westerdam, departing for Stockholm.

A Swedish friend met us as we disembarked in Stockholm. She had come only to say hello and to share a taxi with us for the five-minute ride in to the city center where she would report for work.

On the way, she suggested that we begin our tour in Djurgarden, the lush island park that is home to the city’s most popular museums.

Because our kids were with us, our friend also suggested that we visit Junibacken, the Pippi Longstocking-inspired amusement and children’s museum. She said something in Swedish to the taxi driver and then to us,

“I’ll join you. I can be a little late for work.” And so we spent an hour enjoying childhood stories and exhibits, which we adults seemed to enjoy as much as the kids.

We stepped outside to a gorgeous summer day. Our friend looked at her watch, shrugged, and suggested we walk next door to the Vasa Museum, which houses a warship that in 1628 sank in the harbor on its maiden voyage and was brought up from the depths in 1961. We were awed by the scale of what we saw in the city’s most popular museum. We had expected a model, not the ship itself.

Afterward, our friend decided to push on a little longer before returning to work. After all, why report for work before lunch on such a beautiful day? She walked with us to Skansen, an open-air museum and exhibit that features five centuries of Swedish history.

We had an outdoor lunch, then boarded a ferry to make our way back to Gamla Stan, the city’s old town.
Founded in 1200, Sweden’s capital city boasts a wealth of cultural treasures, including medieval walking streets, magnificent cathedrals, parks, theaters and open-air and indoor markets. Proud of her city, our friend wanted us to see it all.

It was mid-afternoon when she finally called to tell her colleagues that she just wasn’t going to be able to make it in at all today. She was busy playing tourist: visiting souvenir shops, stopping for ice cream cones and sightseeing under sunny skies.

At the end of the day, we said goodbye to her. She nearly boarded the ship with us for the 50-mile journey along the beautiful archipelago of 30,000 islands, islets, and rocks. We wished she had.

Situated on the Baltic Sea’s largest island — with gorgeous fine sand beaches and a temperate climate — Visby and its environs are a playground for Scandinavians. Squint your eyes on a hot summer day and you could be in the Mediterranean.

Known as “The Town of Roses and Ruins,” Visby has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995. To see the sights, we tendered ashore and rented bikes near the tourist information center.

We pedaled along an impressive 3.4-mile stone wall that surrounds the well preserved and thoroughly charming old town. Along cobblestone streets, we rode past majestic merchants houses from 17th and 18th century and stone buildings – some of them dating back to the 12th century. We passed ruins and roses and discovered that the old town isn’t only historical. It is lively, with trendy shops, cafés and restaurants.

We were in no hurry to leave Visby, but our ship pulled anchor at 2 p.m. On the tender, another cruise passenger said what we were thinking as the island retreated into the distance. Visby and Tallinn had been her two favorite ports of call. Visby certainly represents the best of the Baltic — from the historical to the contemporary — contained in a compact city center on an island of spectacular beauty.

The city’s Mediterranean milieu combined with Swedish style makes for a match made in heaven.

Founded in 1218 and one of the three original Hanseatic cities, Rostock, Germany, is only 10 miles from the seaside resort Warnemunde, where cruise ships dock. And while many cruise passengers skip these two former East German destinations for trips to Berlin, we decided to stay put and see what we could find. Besides, the rail trip to Berlin was nearly three hours each way, and with kids, we didn’t think we could endure such a long day of travel.

Our first order of business was to pick up a Rostock Card (in nearly all Baltic Sea destinations, you can purchase city cards good for transport and sightseeing). Getting into Rostock was easy. The train departs near the cruise terminal in Warnemunde.

Once in Rostock city center, we transferred to a tram to get to the central square, Neuer Markt. From the ship to the central square took only about 30 minutes.

A tourist information center is located on the square, so we walked in to get our bearings. We learned the city features a town wall, gothic churches, charming shops and cafes. Rostock is also home to one of Europe’s oldest universities, founded in 1419.

We were advised to begin at St. Peters Church, where we would take the elevator up nearly 12 stories for a view of the city. Afterward, we walked the city squares and wide pedestrian streets, stopping for bratwurst before heading back to Warnemunde by boat.

The trip back was exceptionally pleasant, and we toasted the skyline with a large frothy glass of Rostocker Pils.

Warnemunde was famed for its baths and spas in the 20th century. Today, it’s a bit as if Miami were to meet the Baltic. Beaches are wide and sandy; hotels and bars line the streets across from the beach.
We rented bikes near the train station and rode for a couple of hours along the promenade skirting the beach.

Westerdam did not depart until 10 p.m., so after dinner on the ship, we walked back into Warnemunde. The trains were just returning with passengers who had opted for Berlin. As we watched them disembark, tired from the long journey but enthused about what they had seen, we were glad we stayed.

We would have enjoyed seeing the Danish town Arhus, but for the last day of our cruise we chose to visit Legoland, about an hour away from the port by motorcoach.

The Danish toy company operates only four Legolands worldwide. Our kids had been to Legoland near San Diego. The Danish park, however, was superior, in their expert opinion, and in fact, our day there was fun for the adults as well.

Legoland seemed an appropriate end to our cruise. Our kids were wide-eyed, just as they had been back at the Royal Palace in Copenhagen. Indeed, we had experienced Baltic bliss during those 10 long days when it seemed the sun would never set and our summer would never end.

As we stood on our balcony waiting for the sunset, Holland America Line’sWesterdam was charting a course for Tallinn, capital of Estonia. Not long ago, The Economist cited Estonia “as the biggest, most complicated, and most promising piece of the new Europe.”

I’m not sure what we expected of Tallinn, but we were awed by what we saw. Although the ancient architecture could have fooled us into thinking our ship had arrived in the Middle Ages, the exuberance of the local people and the bustle of tourist activity suggested that we had arrived on the threshold of the city’s epoch. And we probably had.

Soviet occupation ended in 1991, but it was only in 2004 that Estonia — along with neighboring Latvia, Lithuania and Poland — joined the European Union.

Long before that, however, in 1154, an Arabian geographer marked Tallinn on the world map. The town quickly became an important trade town.

In Hanseatic times, luxury furs, wax and honey from Russia were delivered through Tallinn’s port, while salt from Portugal and woolen fabrics from England and Flanders came through on their eastward route.

Our ship approached a cityscape that might have been familiar to those seafarers of long ago: red-tiled rooftops, church spires and the onion domes of Russian Orthodox churches.

We docked within walking distance of the Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With its miles of winding cobblestone streets and quaint medieval houses, Tallinn is the best-preserved Old Town in Northern Europe.

We climbed the vertigo-inducing circular stairs at St. Olav’s church for a view that was worth the challenge. Only 50 miles across the sea (18 minutes by helicopter from city center to city center) we could see Helsinki. We would be there soon, after our next stop: Peter the Great’s city.

Unless you are booked on a cruise line shore excursion, you need to obtain a visa before leaving home to visit St. Petersburg. To clarify, cruise passengers who book cruise line shore excursions do not need visas. Everyone else does.

No matter how you arrive, however, be prepared to wait in line because of the slow churn of Russian bureaucracy.

Two forlorn customs officials stamped passports for nearly 2,000 passengers disembarking our ship. We stood for nearly 45 minutes before it was our turn. The wait, of course, was worthwhile.

Founded by Peter the Great in 1703 and shortly thereafter becoming the capital of Russia, St. Petersburg accumulated all the grandeur of the Russian Imperial Court, and in two days, we saw quite a lot of it with our private car and guide. We began our tour at Peterhof palace, about an hour’s drive from the pier.

There, we wandered the formal gardens and grounds, with 62 cascading fountains and 142 water jets that shower gilded statues.

We were glad we had our camera — not only for the grounds but also for actors in period costumes who posed for photographs.

Tour guides recommend combining Peterhof with the lavishly baroque Catherine Palace, where the Amber Room opened in 2003. The 18th-century hall’s amber panels vanished in WWII and took decades to replicate using six tons of amber.

St. Petersburg’s museums are among the world’s most famous. The Hermitage boasts some 400 rooms containing more than 3 million exhibits Catherine began the collection in 1764 with only 225 pieces.

“If you spent one second looking at each exhibit, you would spend seven years seeing it all,” our tour guide told us. “So we just do the masterpieces of the masterpieces: artworks by da Vinci, Michelangelo and Rembrant.”

Of course, you’ll want to walk inside several churches, the most interesting for us being the ornate neo-Byzantine Church on Spilled Blood, constructed on the very spot where tsar Alexander II was assassinated in 1881.

The next morning while walking around Helsinki, we were surprised to see a train announcing its arrival from “St. Petersburg.”

The train trip took about the same amount of time as our cruise. It’s an overnight trip by train between Helsinki and St. Petersburg. Traveling in the other direction, Stockholm is an overnight ferry away, which is why Helsinki is a gate between East and West.

Finland’s capital city embodies much of the Finnish spirit but also is unlike any other Finnish city, because of the combined Swedish and Russian influences.

Founded in 1550 by Sweden’s King Gustav, Helsinki was developed as a harbor town to compete for Baltic trade with Tallinn. The Finnish capital developed around the port.

Situated in the city center, South Harbor is the cruise passenger traffic hub. Cruise ships dock within walking distance of the city center and Helsinki’s famous Kauppatori Market Square, a colorful way to begin exploration of Helsinki. We dined on fresh berries, tried on fur hats and browsed such specialties as reindeer and canned bear meat.

The largest cruise ships dock at Hernesaari in West Harbor, 10 minutes by shuttle bus to the city center. We walked to the city center from Hernesaari, however, in 30 minutes.

Once there, we purchased a one-day City Card, which gave us free access to sights, museums and public transport, including the Tourist Tram 3T, which makes a 60-minute roundtrip from Market Square and passes most of the city’s “must-see” sights, including the Senate Square and its beautiful cathedral.

Helsinki is a pocket-size metropolis, so you can see a lot in a short time. Someone suggested we try “Nordic Walking.” We weren’t aware that people here walked any differently from us, but apparently those who do Nordic Walking do.

The activity developed because a ski pole manufacturer wanted to increase the market for its poles. Thus, ski poles were modified for walking. It’s easy going but takes coordination. Gripping the poles, you lightly push off with each step forward so that the activity provides a slight upper-body workout.

We pushed our poles around one of Helsinki’s most popular parks on paths skirting Toolonlahti Bay. It was certainly a memorable activity but one that takes practice, although you’re likely to be the only one practicing if you return home with Nordic Walking sticks.

For something more practical that we could return home with, we walked the Esplanade to find Helsinki’s best shopping. A typical souvenir: wooden butter knives. “Everyone in Finland uses them,” a Finnish friend told us before our trip. And so we purchased a couple to bring home.

With our City Card, we hopped the ferry to Suomenlinna Fortress, a UNESCO World Heritage Site founded in 1748 and built on six islands off the coast of Helsinki. Aside from the garrison and museums, we found charming cafes and cozy restaurants.

With too little time to see more of the “pocket-size” metropolis, we hopped the ferry back after only a couple of hours and boarded the Westerdam, departing for Stockholm.

A Swedish friend met us as we disembarked in Stockholm. She had come only to say hello and to share a taxi with us for the five-minute ride in to the city center where she would report for work.

On the way, she suggested that we begin our tour in Djurgarden, the lush island park that is home to the city’s most popular museums.

Because our kids were with us, our friend also suggested that we visit Junibacken, the Pippi Longstocking-inspired amusement and children’s museum. She said something in Swedish to the taxi driver and then to us,

“I’ll join you. I can be a little late for work.” And so we spent an hour enjoying childhood stories and exhibits, which we adults seemed to enjoy as much as the kids.

We stepped outside to a gorgeous summer day. Our friend looked at her watch, shrugged, and suggested we walk next door to the Vasa Museum, which houses a warship that in 1628 sank in the harbor on its maiden voyage and was brought up from the depths in 1961. We were awed by the scale of what we saw in the city’s most popular museum. We had expected a model, not the ship itself.

Afterward, our friend decided to push on a little longer before returning to work. After all, why report for work before lunch on such a beautiful day? She walked with us to Skansen, an open-air museum and exhibit that features five centuries of Swedish history.

We had an outdoor lunch, then boarded a ferry to make our way back to Gamla Stan, the city’s old town.
Founded in 1200, Sweden’s capital city boasts a wealth of cultural treasures, including medieval walking streets, magnificent cathedrals, parks, theaters and open-air and indoor markets. Proud of her city, our friend wanted us to see it all.

It was mid-afternoon when she finally called to tell her colleagues that she just wasn’t going to be able to make it in at all today. She was busy playing tourist: visiting souvenir shops, stopping for ice cream cones and sightseeing under sunny skies.

At the end of the day, we said goodbye to her. She nearly boarded the ship with us for the 50-mile journey along the beautiful archipelago of 24,000 islands. We wished she had.

Situated on the Baltic Sea’s largest island — with gorgeous fine sand beaches and a temperate climate — Visby and its environs are a playground for Scandinavians. Squint your eyes on a hot summer day and you could be in the Mediterranean.

Known as “The Town of Roses and Ruins,” Visby has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995. To see the sights, we tendered ashore and rented bikes near the tourist information center.

We pedaled along an impressive 3.4-mile stone wall that surrounds the well preserved and thoroughly charming old town. Along cobblestone streets, we rode past majestic merchants houses from 17th and 18th century and stone buildings – some of them dating back to the 12th century. We passed ruins and roses and discovered that the old town isn’t only historical. It is lively, with trendy shops, cafés and restaurants.

We were in no hurry to leave Visby, but our ship pulled anchor at 2 p.m. On the tender, another cruise passenger said what we were thinking as the island retreated into the distance. Visby and Tallinn had been her two favorite ports of call. Visby certainly represents the best of the Baltic — from the historical to the contemporary — contained in a compact city center on an island of spectacular beauty.

The city’s Mediterranean milieu combined with Swedish style makes for a match made in heaven.

Founded in 1218 and one of the three original Hanseatic cities, Rostock, Germany, is only 10 miles from the seaside resort Warnemunde, where cruise ships dock. And while many cruise passengers skip these two former East German destinations for trips to Berlin, we decided to stay put and see what we could find. Besides, the rail trip to Berlin was nearly three hours each way, and with kids, we didn’t think we could endure such a long day of travel.

Our first order of business was to pick up a Rostock Card (in nearly all Baltic Sea destinations, you can purchase city cards good for transport and sightseeing). Getting into Rostock was easy. The train departs near the cruise terminal in Warnemunde.

Once in Rostock city center, we transferred to a tram to get to the central square, Neuer Markt. From the ship to the central square took only about 30 minutes.

A tourist information center is located on the square, so we walked in to get our bearings. We learned the city features a town wall, gothic churches, charming shops and cafes. Rostock is also home to one of Europe’s oldest universities, founded in 1419.

We were advised to begin at St. Peters Church, where we would take the elevator up nearly 12 stories for a view of the city. Afterward, we walked the city squares and wide pedestrian streets, stopping for bratwurst before heading back to Warnemunde by boat.

The trip back was exceptionally pleasant, and we toasted the skyline with a large frothy glass of Rostocker Pils.

Warnemunde was famed for its baths and spas in the 20th century. Today, it’s a bit as if Miami were to meet the Baltic. Beaches are wide and sandy; hotels and bars line the streets across from the beach.
We rented bikes near the train station and rode for a couple of hours along the promenade skirting the beach.

Westerdam did not depart until 10 p.m., so after dinner on the ship, we walked back into Warnemunde. The trains were just returning with passengers who had opted for Berlin. As we watched them disembark, tired from the long journey but enthused about what they had seen, we were glad we stayed.

We would have enjoyed seeing the Danish town Arhus, but for the last day of our cruise we chose to visit Legoland, about an hour away from the port by motorcoach.

The Danish toy company operates only four Legolands worldwide. Our kids had been to Legoland near San Diego. The Danish park, however, was superior, in their expert opinion, and in fact, our day there was fun for the adults as well.

Legoland seemed an appropriate end to our cruise. Our kids were wide-eyed, just as they had been back at the Royal Palace in Copenhagen. Indeed, we had experienced Baltic bliss during those 10 long days when it seemed the sun would never set and our summer would never end.

Klaipeda is an up-and-coming, quaint and charming seaside city that presents opportunities to explore cultural, historical and natural attractions. The region bills itself as “One port, three destinations,” and cruise ship visitors who have time will want to explore Klaipeda itself as well as nearby Nida and Palanga. Combined, the three destinations are “the jewels of Lithuania,” and all are worth a visit.

Klaipeda. From the new cruise ship terminal, the historical city center is only a few steps away. Visit the Old Town for glimpses of Germanic architecture (Klaipeda was part of Germany until 1923) and half-timbered, lattice-work buildings that reflect the city’s Prussian past. Stroll through Drama Theater Square, where Hitler incited fear into Lithuanians in 1939, or visit some of the city’s many museums.

Take a break at any of Klaipeda’s 300 restaurants and cafes. Adjacent to the terminal, the Castle Museum opened in 2002 on the foundation of an old castle. The museum features authentic 16th and 17th century exhibits. Throughout Klaipeda are reminders of the Soviet occupation that visitors may find interesting.

You’re likely to see antique automobiles from Russia and former East Germany. Venture out into the country side to experience Village Life Lapiai, a preserved collective farm where traditional ways are maintained.

Nida. You’ll want to ferry across the Curonian Lagoon to visit the National Maritime Museum and make your way 30 miles south to the seaside resort of Nida. The drive itself is spectacular, as most of the route takes you through the Curonian Spit National Park, named a UNESCO World Heritage Site just five years ago. A ribbon of blacktop rolls over and along sand dunes, the highest in all of Europe (stop to walk out on the dunes and admire the views), to Nida and Lithuania’s border with Russia.

The German writer Thomas Mann lived here in a house commanding a view over the lagoon, and today, his home serves as a museum. Along the way, stop in the resort town of Juodkrante for a stroll up the Hill of Witches, where Lithuanian folklore and fairy tales are depicted through wooden statues.

Palanga. Lithuania boasts more than 60 miles of sandy seashore exposed to the open water. Evenings in the resort town Palanga, throngs of people amble along wide pedestrian promenades, with cafes and attractions on each side, that lead out to the sea for spectacular sunsets.

You’ll want to amble over to the Amber Museum, housed in the 19th century mansion of Count Tishkevichius. There, you’ll learn that there are seven shades of amber ranging from white to black.

Millions of years ago, forests wept resin into the sea, giving birth to the amber that visitors today still find in galleries and museums. It boggles the mind how you can leave Lithuania clutching a piece of amber 40 million to 55 million years old, with “inclusions” of insects or even reptiles that were caught in the resin millennia ago. No place in the Baltic values amber more than Lithuania. Steeped in national folklore and fairy tales, “the gold of Lithuania” is much like Klaipeda itself — lovely to look at and so special that you’ll want to take a piece home.

The hub of activity and the main shopping areas are situated at and around Europe’s longest pedestrian street, called Stroget. The entrance to Stroget is approximately 30 minutes walk from the Langelinie Pier and one hour walk from the Freeport. Stroget runs from Kongens Nytorv square to Radhuspladsen (Town Hall Square), about one mile.

Begin your shopping extravaganza at the new cruise lounge in the heart of Copenhagen. The venue includes a room where the Danish writer Hans Christian Andersen used to stay, complete with its original furniture. The lounge is located in the Magasin department store at Kongens Nytorv 13. Complimentary coffee, tea or water and international newspapers and magazines are available by showing a cabin card or cruise ticket to the lounge hostess. Opening hours are 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Friday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday and 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. on the first Sunday of the month.

You’ll find some of the city’s most popular shops in the area: Illums Bolighus featuring Danish design, and the flagship stores of Royal Copenhagen porcelain and Georg Jensen silver.

The following can be used as guidelines for opening hours of shops in the city:

Monday-Thursday 10 am - 6 pm

Friday 10 am - 7 pm
Saturday 10 am - 4 pm
Sunday closed

Some of the large department stores have extended opening hours, and some are open on Sundays, especially during the cruise season (May-September). Scandinavia’s largest shopping mall, Field’s, is near the airport.

There is a nice shopping promenade at the Langelinie Pier with all kinds of shops, casual cafes and more. Open every day from 11 am - 6 pm.

To get to Stroget from the Langelinie Pier take local bus number 26, which departs every 20 minutes to Stroget.

You can also go by waterbus, which departs from the polar bear statue at the end of the pier. The waterbus will also take you to Fisketorvet, which is a large mall with all kinds of shops, restaurants, and movie theaters.

From the Freeport Terminal to Kongens Nytorv, where Stroget begins, shuttle buses are usually available. (See sections on how to get to the city center from Langelinie Pier and Freeport terminal.)

The local currency is Danish Kroner, DKK. You can change money at banks, or for competitive exchange rates and less hassle, change at ATM machines located throughout the city. Of course, major credit cards are accepted almost everywhere.

It’s futile to make specific recommendations for dining - there are so many good restaurants in Copenhagen. But we have a few favorites that we list below. Your room rate will likely include breakfast, so you will be off to a good start. For lunch or dinner, you can hardly go wrong. Ask for recommendations at your hotel or try one of our favorites.

Best Afternoon Snack
Konditori La Glace. Along Stroget, this bakery/confectionary opened in 1870, five years before the death of Hans Christian Andersen, Copenhagen’s master of fairy tales. “We can only assume that he visited here,” Marianne Kolos, the owner since 1987, tells us. During 2005, the bicentennial of Andersen’s birth, Kolos will introduce a series of special cakes and desserts designed to commemorate the fairy tale writer.

What to eat: A slice of the cake that La Glace has been famous for since 1891: Sportsmage (Sports Cake). It has nothing to do with fitness but was named after a play. It is heavy and filling, made with crushed nougat in whipped cream, macaroon bottom and eclairs dipped in caramel. Delicious with a cup of coffee.

Best Lunch And Museum Combination
If you’re visiting either the Karen Blixen Museum or the Louisiana Art Museum, just outside Copenhagen, stop for lunch at a century-and-a-half-old restaurant located in a 250-year-old thatched-roof home, Rungsted Kro, (just past the Shell Station heading north from the Karen Blixen Museum.)

For lunch, be sure to try the Scandinavian specialty, Smorrebrod, an open-faced sandwich of sorts. The Kroplatte, or The Innkeepers Platter (pictured), is a sampler platter that comes with the requisite herring in the center (the locals usually eat it first), a fried filet of fish, and six items on individual beds of lettuce to place on bread.

There are two types of bread, white bread and Rugbrod, dark bread with sunflower seeds served with the Kroplatte. But don’t dip your knife into the white buttery stuff if you want to keep your arteries clean. It’s lardlike, meant to be spread on your bread, but a little heavy and greasy for our tastes. The herring, on the other hand, will clean your arteries. It is prepared with capers, onions and tomatoes and is raw and marinated. You will find herring throughout Scandinavia, and you may even begin to like it. Cost of the meal with a glass of Carlsberg Pilsner was DKK 149 when we were there in 2003, about $22.50 (a glass of beer, on average, in Denmark is around $6).

Best Traditional Dinner
Every time we go to Copenhagen, we head for a traditional Danish dinner at either Peder Oxe or Bof & Ost. Sitting side-by-side, the two restaurants are situated on one of the city’s most beautiful squares, Grabrodretorv (Grey Friar’s Square), just off Stroget.

Peder Oxe serves traditional Danish fare, with a great salad bar and bottles of house wine marked with gradients that are measured so that you pay only for what you consume. Downstairs is a wine bar.

On my last visit in 2004, I had the salad bar with baked potato and a Carlsberg Special Draft for DKK 118, about $20.

Bof and Ost, a gourmet steak house, features wonderful outdoor seating. When I was there in October 2004, there was a chill in the air, but I sat outside, beneath a propane heater, under a series of umbrellas that form a tent over the few dozen tabletops. Out front logs burned in shallow buckets elevated on pedestals, an inviting symbol of warmth. Inside, logs crackled in a fireplace. The food and the setting are great.

Other recommendations:Saint Gertrud’s Kloster, situated in an old monastery that is lighted only by candles - 1,200 of them.

Best Place To People Watch And Bask In The Sun

Nyhavn with its many good restaurants, the “New Harbor” is a hive of activity in a gorgeous setting.

“You’re going to see the Glibte,” he said, in the lazy manner that Danes drop letters and occasionally whole syllables, making the language incomprehensible to foreigners. Pronounce anything phonetically, despite the extra letters in the alphabet, and you will fail. Bjorn, for example, is pronounced BEE OX, with a sharp ending of the letter X.

“The what?” I asked Michael. “The Glibte,” he repeated. Then by explanation, I understood him to say that I would visit the Glyptotek, the wonderful art museum, opened in 1897 by Carlsberg brewer Carl Jacobsen.

Michael proceeded to rattle off the museums, attractions, bars and cafes that represent the best of Copenhagen. I took notes and promised to visit them all. I told Michael I would return each evening to report my progress.

I decided, as I did in Amsterdam, that I would get around on a bike. Like Amsterdam, Denmark’s capital is so compact, and the cycling paths so well configured, that Copenhagen is best seen either on foot or via two wheels. The two European capitals, in fact, are among the world’s safest cycling cities.

Before setting out, my first challenge was to obtain the proper bike to straddle. I found it at Kobenhavns Cykler, located at the Copenhagen Central rail station (on the right side if you’re facing the station).

The English-speaking attendant told me that the shop rents three categories of bikes: a “day bike” with three gears for DDK 75 (Rates are quoted in Krone - the official currency of Denmark. For current exchange rates, go to http://www.xe.com/); a Trek hybrid with 21 gears for DKK 100, and a mountain bike for DKK 200.

There’s a break in price for multi-day rentals. The shop also rents bikes for kids, trailers for children or supplies, and tandems. Be prepared to leave a deposit ranging from DDK 500 to DKK 1000. Bring your passport for identification, and try to pick up a city bike map, either at the bike shop or at the tourist information center across from Tivoli.

The shop is open Monday through Friday 8 a.m. until 5:30 p.m., Saturdays 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. and on Sundays July 1 through September 1 only, 10 a.m. until 1 p.m. You may return your bike after hours, but ask the attendant to show you how.

I even found a convenient way to get to the city center to rent my bike. Outside my hotel room, Radisson SAS Scandinavia, I found two city bikes. Copenhagen has 2,500 “City Bikes” that anyone can pedal away on simply by inserting a DKK 20 coin into the bike’s locking mechanism. Lock your bike upon return at any of 110 bike-parking stations to retrieve your coin. Or just lean your bike against a wall if you can’t find a station. Don’t worry: Someone else will return it. Of course, they’ll also collect your DKK 20 coin. Oh, and don’t take the city bikes out of the City Bike Zone, or you will be fined.

The city bike wasn’t the bike that would win the Tour de France. The tires could have used a few more pounds of pressure, and the bike clanked with each revolution of the pedals. It was shy of material for my 6′ 5″ frame. My knees knocked my chin with each pedal. I had to stand on the pedals for most of the ride, but luckily, I wasn’t going far. To be fair, there are good city bikes. I just happened to choose one with an improper fit.

The city bike would have attracted all sorts of snickering back home, but no one gave me a second look here. Cycling in Copenhagen is more of a utilitarian activity than a fitness event. Copenhagen commuters ride all sorts of bikes, in various degrees of disrepair. Some cyclists straddled nice bikes, yes, but the majority were “beaters,” bikes that, if stolen, would not send the owner into lasting despair.

Copenhagen cyclists wore utilitarian clothing as well. There wasn’t a great deal of lycra or cycling jerseys or even cycling shoes. Most cyclists wore the clothes they would wear to work or for a night out. I found that cyclists in Copenhagen and in Amsterdam generally don’t wear helmets, and I did not either.

Even without helmets, statistically, these cities are much safer than cycling in the United States. According to Bicycling magazine, Dutch bike commuters are 30 times less likely to be killed on their bikes than their stateside counterparts. I suspect Danish commuters are equally as safe.

I abandoned my city bike, not at a station, but by leaning it against a wall. It felt odd to walk away, but I did so. I walked into Kobenhavns Cykler and rented a Trek hybrid. I checked the tire pressure, added some air and proceeded to pedal out of the building (on a ramp) and along the north shore for 25 kilometers to Rungstedlund and the Karen Blixen Museum. The terrain was flat, sometimes with slight rolls, and the going was easy.

Blixen, whose pen name was Isak Dinesen, was portrayed by Meryl Streep in the movie version of Blixen’s “Out of Africa.” Blixen lived on a farm in Africa for 17 years and returned here, to the house where she was born and to which she returned in 1931. She lived here until her death in 1962, and it was later made a museum. I spent about 45 minutes in the museum, then wandered the grounds. Blixen had created a 40-acre garden and bird sanctuary, in her words, “to let children, a hundred years from now, play tag in the grass, let young people kiss, and let old people rest in the shade. And may they all find it is beautiful here and be happy.”

I found it to be beautiful, and I was indeed happy, walking past flower gardens, centuries-old beech trees, and grazing sheep. I stopped to look at Blixen’s grave before leaving the grounds and pedaling just a minute away to a 150-year-old restaurant located in a 250-year-old thatched-roof home, Rungsted Kro, (just past the Shell Station heading north).

For lunch, I had the traditional open-faced sandwich known as Smorrebrod. I ordered the Kroplatte, or The Innkeepers Platter, which was a sampler platter of sorts. It came with the requisite herring in the center (the locals usually eat it first), a fried filet of fish, and six items on individual beds of lettuce to place on bread.

Cost of the meal with a glass of Carlsberg Pilsner was DKK 149, about $22.50 (a glass of beer, on average, in Denmark was $6).

After lunch, I continued my ride to the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. Most Danes I talked to, including Michael, said they preferred the museum for its setting beside the sea and the immaculate grounds than for the art inside. I confess that I made a 30-minute stride through the museum before heading outside to bask in the sun with what seemed like a couple hundred others.

I headed back to Copenhagen in the late afternoon along a wonderful network of well-marked bike paths on Bicycle Route 9. These paths, which paralleled the road I had traveled on (the road had bike paths along the side), traveled for the most part above and along the railroad tracks through wooded areas - with no cars in sight.

I pulled back into Copenhagen, showered, then had a wonderful dinner at Peder Oxe, which Michael had recommended. The restaurant serves bottles of wine for DKK 147. The bottle is marked with gradients, and you pay only for what you consume. I’m not sure what they do with the remaining wine that is returned.

The next morning, I had to change hotels. I deliberated how to get my bike and bags to the St. Petri hotel from the Radisson SAS Scandinavia. I would have to take a taxi, I thought, then come back to get my bike. The Mercedes station wagon taxi pulled up, and I told the driver that I had a bike, but obviously there was no room. He whipped out two metal rods from the trunk, inserted them into a trailer hitch, mounted the bike, and we and were off. I had to pay an extra DKK 10 for the bike, but how convenient.

After checking in at the new St. Petri, I rode for about 20 minutes to the Carlsberg Brewery, where I learned, among other things that at times during the 1800s there were such insufficient quantities of beer, despite having 140 breweries, that one consumer complained: “In my small household beer is often lacking for 8 to 14 days. At these times my children must either go to the water pump if the water is drinkable or I must with sadness see them become weak on tea water.” Children, by the way, need only be 15 years of age to purchase beer in Denmark, 18 to consume it at a bar.

Michael had suggested that I go to youth hostel near the hippy commune known as Christiana. I thought it odd to go to the youth hostel, which is situated at the end of the street Strandgade, but it ended up being an afternoon pleasurably spent. The Danes had brought in sand to form a beach with all sorts of furniture so that you could lounge, enjoy the views of Copenhagen just across the harbor, or just bask in the sun (pictured).

After sitting for about 45 minutes, I rode through Christiana, an 84-acre free state that was given official status as a social experiment in 1981. I passed one area that was like a farmer’s market for pot growers. Soft drugs, and perhaps even hard ones (though rules prohibit hard drugs, cards, weapons and violence) were tolerated here. Every plume of smoke that made its way up my nostrils carried the smell of marijuana. People wore dreds and psychedelic shirts. They played hacky sack, walked on stilts, but mostly were just “hanging out.”

I rode back into the city center to have dinner at another restaurant Michael had recommended, the Atlas Bar, where I ordered, and recommend, the Dagens Salater, or the daily salad, for DKK 96. It was fresh and delicious. I sat at the bar and had a conversation with a couple, who told me that this was the best restaurant in Copenhagen. That made four votes for best restaurant, when you add my vote and Michael’s.

I left the restaurant, pedaling slowly to my hotel as the evening came to an end. I was smitten with Copenhagen, and I did not look forward to leaving the next morning. I had spent a couple of glorious days under sunny skies cycling around this wonderful city and to museums 45 kilometers north of the city. It was great to be out in the fresh air and sunshine and to arrive at my destinations invigorated. Cycling gets the blood flowing. Having the wind in your hair sure beats having your nose pressed against a bus window.

Copenhageners were friendly people, too, or perhaps I had just caught them when they were happy. The sun was shining, and the sky was blue during my entire stay. There wasn’t much to frown about. They were helpful people too. Especially Michael. Ask him, and he will gladly tell you where to go.

You could spend a week in Copenhagen and feel as though you did not get enough. In fact, any time spent in Copenhagen leaves visitors wanting to return. This wonderful Danish capital ranks among Europe’s most vibrant cities. From charming outdoor cafes along the beautiful harbor Nyhavn to Europe’s longest pedestrian street, Stroget, and Tivoli, an amusement park and gardens dating back to 1843, Copenhagen offers visitors much to see and do.

You can cover a lot of Copenhagen’s central tourist attractions on foot or by bike (the city even makes free city bikes available that anyone can use).

From the main cruise pier, Langelinie, the city center is only about a 30- to 45-minute walk (ask directions from the pierside Cruise Information Center), and by walking, you’ll pass Copenhagen’s best-known attractions: the Little Mermaid, the symbol of Copenhagen in the form of a bronze statue of a character from a Hans Christian Andersen fairy tale; Amalienborg Palace, the royal residence since 1751 where you can see the changing of the guard if you pass at noon; and Nyhavn (pronounced “New Hound” without the “d” at the end), with its colorful old wooden schooners lining the canal.

At Nyhavn, you can hop a 50-minute canal cruise to see Copenhagen from the perspective of the water with a 60-minute guided canal tour (tours depart hourly from 10 a.m. until 6 p.m.).

From Nyhavn walk across Kongens Nytorv square at the end of the harbor to join Europe’s longest pedestrian street, Strøget (swallow the “g” when pronouncing the name.)

The locals refer to Strøget as the “walking street.” This is the heart of Copenhagen, and along its main thoroughfare, as well as the adjacent alleys, you’ll find great shopping and dining. Be sure to stop in at the Cruise Lounge, situated at the square Amager Torv (you’ll know you’re there when you see the crane fountain). Show the wait staff proof that you’re a cruise passenger (your boarding card, for example) for complimentary coffee or tea.

You’ll find some of the city’s most popular shops adjacent to the Cruise Lounge: Illums Bolighus, featuring Danish design, and the flagship stores of Royal Copenhagen porcelain and Georg Jensen silver - all purveyors to Her Majesty The Queen of Denmark. Should you make a purchase, you can leave it at the cruise lounge to pick up later. Near the airport, visit Scandinavia’s largest shopping mall, Field’s.

Whether you’re in Copenhagen for the day or several days pre- or post-cruise, be sure pick up a Copenhagen Card, which gives you free entrance or discounts to Copenhagen’s most popular museums and attractions. The card is valid for either 24 or 72 hours. You may purchase cards at Copenhagen airport, at major train stations and at most hotels.

With the card, you’ll gain free entrance to attractions such as the National Museum (highly recommended) and the Thorvaldsens Museum, featuring sculptures by Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770-1844), one of Europe’s most renowned artists in his day. Among the attractions and activities where reduced rates are offered: Canal Tours and Open Top bus tours.

Open Top Tours leave from Langelinie Pier approximately every 20 minutes. These are sightseeing buses that you may hop on and off as you please. The tour around the city takes about 80 minutes. Purchase tickets from the bus driver.

Cruise ships also arrive at Freeport Terminal. Should your ship call here, it’s about an hour’s walk into the city center. Best to jump on a shuttle into the city center.

All of this activity will leave you famished, and even if you’re not hungry, you’ll be tempted by Copenhagen’s wonderful restaurants. It’s futile to make specific recommendations - there are so many good restaurants in Copenhagen - but you must at least try the Sport Cake or another dessert at Konditori La Glace, near Strøget, and for a traditional Danish dinner, go to Peder Oxe, situated on one of the city’s most beautiful squares, Grabrodretorv (Grey Friar’s Square), just off Strøget.

For lunch, be sure to try the Scandinavian specialty, Smorrebrod, an open-faced sandwich of sorts, as Told & Snaps, at Nyhavn.

Copenhagen has many hotels in or near the city center. Most cruise lines offer pre- and post-cruise packages that include transfers and accommodations. The beauty of these packages is that they offer seamless travel experiences. But if you’re planning on your own and want a recommendation, one of my favorites is the Radisson SAS Royal.

If you Have a Few Extra Days

Copenhagen is on the island of Sealand. The attractions below are also on Sealand and easily reached from Copenhagen. None, in fact, are more than an hour away by train. Your Copenhagen Card will give you free train or bus transportation and free or discounted admission to most of these attractions.

North Sealand

• Helsingør, better known as Elsinore, is the home of Kronborg Castle, the inspiration for the setting of Shakespeare’s Hamlet.
• Frederiksborg Castle at Hillerød is the traditional coronation site for Danish monarchs. Dating from the 16th century, the castle features ceremonial rooms and a museum.
• The Karen Blixen Museum at Rungsted is the home of the Danish author of Out of Africa and many other works. Under the pen name Isak Dinesen she wrote most of her books here. The house is filled with her personal belongings, including souvenirs of her days in Africa. For lunch, try the Smorrebrod at Rungsted Kro.
• Louisiana Museum of Modern Art in Humlebæk is a haven for art lovers, featuring the work of the world’s great 20th- and 21st-century artists. Known for its innovative exhibitions, both small-scale and large, the museum is surrounded by a pleasant park and sculpture garden

West Sealand

• Korsor is home to the Great Belt Bridge and Nature Center, where you’ll find exhibitions about the largest construction projects in Danish history.
• For a historic look at the town, visit Kongegaarden, a manor house that has hosted kings while they awaited favorable weather for sailing across the Great Belt.
• Roskilde, a short trip west of Copenhagen, is known for its Viking Ship Museum. The museum came about after a cache of Viking ships were discovered submerged in the fjord beside the city. The ships, along with a wealth of information about Viking seafaring history and skills, are displayed in the main hall. The newest addition is Skuldelev 2, an 11th-century Viking warship that was fully reconstructed in 2004. Be sure to watch the film about how all the ships were recovered and restored.
• Roskilde Cathedral is the traditional burial place of Danish monarchs. The red brick Gothic structure, built in the 12th and 13th centuries, was expanded over the centuries in unusual ways, making it a delight for historians and architecture aficionados.

South Sealand

Arken Museum for Modern Art in Ishoj is part gallery, part concert hall, with wonderful views of the flat sandy beach and the Bay of Koge.

If you really want to get out of town, hop a train and cross the beautiful Oresund Bridge to Malmo, Sweden. The trip from Copenhagen Central Station takes just 35 minutes.

Be sure to visit Ralph Grizzle’s Coming To Copenhagen

North Sealand

• Helsingør, better known as Elsinore, is the home of Kronborg Castle, the inspiration for the setting of Shakespeare’s Hamlet.
• Frederiksborg Castle at Hillerød is the traditional coronation site for Danish monarchs. Dating from the 16th century, the castle features ceremonial rooms and a museum.
• The Karen Blixen Museum at Rungsted is the home of the Danish author of Out of Africa and many other works. Under the pen name Isak Dinesen she wrote most of her books here. The house is filled with her personal belongings, including souvenirs of her days in Africa. For lunch, try the Smorrebrod at Rungsted Kro.
• Louisiana Museum of Modern Art in Humlebæk is a haven for art lovers, featuring the work of the world’s great 20th- and 21st-century artists. Known for its innovative exhibitions, both small-scale and large, the museum is surrounded by a pleasant park and sculpture garden

West Sealand

• Korsor is home to the Great Belt Bridge and Nature Center, where you’ll find exhibitions about the largest construction projects in Danish history.
• For a historic look at the town, visit Kongegaarden, a manor house that has hosted kings while they awaited favorable weather for sailing across the Great Belt.
• Roskilde, a short trip west of Copenhagen, is known for its Viking Ship Museum. The museum came about after a cache of Viking ships were discovered submerged in the fjord beside the city. The ships, along with a wealth of information about Viking seafaring history and skills, are displayed in the main hall. The newest addition is Skuldelev 2, an 11th-century Viking warship that was fully reconstructed in 2004. Be sure to watch the film about how all the ships were recovered and restored.
• Roskilde Cathedral is the traditional burial place of Danish monarchs. The red brick Gothic structure, built in the 12th and 13th centuries, was expanded over the centuries in unusual ways, making it a delight for historians and architecture aficionados.

South Sealand

Arken Museum for Modern Art in Ishoj is part gallery, part concert hall, with wonderful views of the flat sandy beach and the Bay of Koge.

If you really want to get out of town, hop a train and cross the beautiful Oresund Bridge to Malmo, Sweden. The trip from Copenhagen Central Station takes just 35 minutes.

Be sure to visit Ralph Grizzle’s Coming To Copenhagen

No matter where you arrive, you will soon see at least some of Copenhagen’s 2,500 free “City Bikes.” Anyone can pedal away on a city bike simply by inserting a Danish 20-kroner coin into the bike’s locking mechanism. Lock the bike upon return at any of 110 bike-parking stations to retrieve the coin. Or just lean the bike against a wall for someone else to use.

City bikes are hard to miss. Painted bright blue or rousing red, they carry “billboard” advertisements on their frames, Coca Cola, for example. Cruise passengers will find city bikes parked near the Langelinie Pier, in the direction of the Little Mermaid. To locate the bikes, ask at the pierside Cruise Copenhagen Information Center.

While you’re there, be sure to pick up a Copenhagen Card, which provides free entrance or considerable discounts to 60 of Copenhagen’s most popular museums and attractions plus transportation on all Greater Copenhagen area buses and trains. Valid for either 24 or 72 hours

Also pick up a City Bike Map, which outlines three easy-pedaling tours: Copenhagen harbor tour, city ramparts tour, and round-the-city tour. You can pedal without fear here: Like Amsterdam, Copenhagen is one of the world’s safest cycling cities.

City bikes aren’t found as easily at Freeport Terminal. Some cruise companies, however, offer bike tours from the terminal. There will be shuttles into the city center, where you can walk or pick up a bike.

For DKK 100, rent a Trek hybrid with 21 gears at Kobenhavns Cykler, located at the Copenhagen Central Rail Station (on the right side if you’re facing the station). These are better suited for those who have a few days in Copenhagen before or after their cruises.

From Langelinie Pier, you can also walk, in less than 30 minutes, to the city center. Or if you prefer, bus 26 travels between the pier and the city center. You can change for the DKK 15 bus fare at the Cruise Information Center alongside the pier. Or go by waterbus, which departs from the polar bear statue at the end of the pier. A one-day ticket costs DKK 40. You can hop on and off as much as you like.

Walking or pedaling from Langelinie Pier, you’ll pass some of the city’s best known sights: the Little Mermaid, a bronze statue of a Hans Christian Andersen fairy tale character and the symbol of Copenhagen; Amalienborg Palace, the royal residence since 1751 where you will see the changing of the guard if you pass at noon; and the charming canal street known as Nyhavn, with its colorful old wooden schooners lining the canal and more than 20 outdoor restaurants.

At Nyhavn, you can hop a narrated, 50-minute cruise for DKK 50, a great way to get a city overview and to see Copenhagen from the perspective of the water.

From Nyhavn, continue across Kongens Nytorv square at the end of the harbor to join Europe’s longest pedestrian street, Stroget, which begins to the left of Hotel d’Angleterre. If you’re on a bike, be sure to walk it through the pedestrian zone.

Stroll along the pedestrian thoroughfare free of cars and exhaust fumes. Along the way, you’ll find excellent shopping, amusing street performances, and quaint cafes. Veer off on intimate side streets. You’re safe here.

You’ll find some of the city’s most popular shops on Strøget, like Illums Bolighus featuring Danish design, and the flagship stores of Royal Copenhagen Porcelain, and Georg Jensen silver.

Continue to the end of the “walking street,” as the locals refer to it, to City Hall Square (Radhuspladsen). Continue across the square to Tivoli. You’ll want to spend some time at this centuries-old amusement park. Tivoli features gardens, open-air amusements, more than 20 restaurants, cafes, theaters, and a concert hall.

If you’re in Copenhagen long enough, plan to come back at night, when the evening festivities begin, including fireworks at 11:45 p.m. on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

Leave Tivoli via the Southeast Entrance, and step across the street to the Glyptotek, an art museum. If time permits, you’ll also want to see the National Museum, Scandinavia’s largest, and the 17th-century Rosenborg Castle, where the crown jewels are kept.

Should you have a few days in Copenhagen, there are lots of attractions within a 40-mile radius, from easy-pedaling trips to daylong excursions.

Food and Shelter
Many cruise lines offer pre- and post-cruise packages that include transfers and accommodations. The beauty of these packages is that they offer seamless travel experiences. They also use centrally located hotels, such as Radisson’s SAS hotels or the Marriott in the city center. If you’re a do-it-yourselfer, you can find a place to lay your head by logging on to Copenhagen’s official tourism site www.visitcopenhagen.com.

The five-star Hotel Skt. Petri, opened in 2003, is located in the city center’s Latin Quarter. Nearby is the cobblestone Grabrodretorv (Greyfriar’s Square), where you’ll find several restaurants popular with the locals: Peder Oxe, with its wine bar, outdoor and indoor seating, salad bar, and bottles of wine where you pay for only as many glasses as you consume (the bottles have markings so that the waitress can gauge how much you’ve drank); and Frimandskvarter, where you pour your own draft beer.

For more information.
Be sure to visit Ralph Grizzle’s Coming To Copenhagen

• Most cruise passengers arrive in Copenhagen at one of three places: Copenhagen Airport (Copenhagen serves as the initial port of departure for many cruises); or for those arriving by sea, Langelinie Pier or Freeport Terminal.
• If your cruise is departing from Copenhagen, we suggest you arrive at least a day before your cruise so that you can take in the sights before setting sail. Ideally, arrive two days early to see more of what Copenhagen has to offer.
• If you spend an extra day or two in Copenhagen, make sure you see our section on the Copenhagen Card, a money-saving program that provides free or discounted admission to attractions and transportation within greater Copenhagen.
• PLEASE NOTE: Prices and exchange rates mentioned here are approximate. Rates may vary.
• Be sure to visit Ralph Grizzle’s Coming To Copenhagen

Where do I find my ship?
Ships usually dock at either the Langelinie Pier or the Freeport Terminal. Langelinie is about a 30-minute walk to the city center (or a short taxi, bus or train ride). Freeport is about a 60-minute walk to the city center.

How do I get from Copenhagen Airport to the city center?
Most cruise lines offer transfers, but if you want to transfer on your own, Copenhagen has the fastest and cheapest airport-to-city-center rail link of any European capital. The journey takes just 13 minutes and costs about US$5 per person. Trains leave every 20 minutes. Purchase tickets at the DSB (Danish State Railways) counter in the arrival hall. The train station is located beneath the airport arrival hall.

How do I get from Copenhagen Airport to Langelinie Pier?
There are three convenient ways to get from the airport to Langelinie Pier.

• Shuttle: Shuttle services are usually available from the airport to Langelinie Pier. Contact your cruise line directly for information.
• Taxi: A taxi from the airport to Langelinie will take approximately 25 minutes and cost about DKK 200-250 depending on traffic.
• Public transportation: From the airport arrival hall, DSB (Danish State Railways) trains leave every 20 minutes. It will take 12 minutes to reach Central Station. From there you can take a taxi to the pier. Or stay on the train another 3 minutes to reach Osterport Station. From outside Osterport Station, bus number 26 to Langelinie Pier departs every 20 minutes. The bus ride to Langelinie from the station is approximately 5 minutes. The total trip will cost about DKK 23.

How do I get from Copenhagen Airport to Freeport Terminal?
There are three ways to get from the airport to Freeport Terminal.

• Shuttle: Shuttle services are usually available from the airport to Freeport Terminal. Contact your cruise line directly for information.
• Taxi: Taxis are located right outside the airport. A taxi from the airport will take approximately 30 minutes and cost about DKK 250-300.
• Public transportation: It is not possible to take public transportation all the way, but you can take the train to Nordhavn Station, and then grab a taxi from there. From the airport arrival hall, DSB (Danish State Railways) trains leave every 20 minutes. It will take approximately 18 minutes to reach Nordhavn Station. The cost is about DKK 23. A taxi from the Nordhavn Station to Freeport Terminal will take approximately 10 minutes and cost DKK 50-70.

How to I get from Langelinie Pier to the city center?

• On foot: You can walk, in less than 30 minutes, to the city center from Langelinie Pier. Along the way, you’ll pass some of the city’s best-known attractions: the Little Mermaid, the symbol of Copenhagen in the form of a bronze statue of a character from a Hans Christian Andersen fairy tale; Amalienborg Palace (the royal residence since 1751 where you can see the changing of the guard if you pass at noon), and the charming canal street known as Nyhavn, with its colorful old wooden schooners, outdoor restaurants and sailors’ bars lining the canal. At Nyhavn, you can even hop a 50-minute canal cruise for DKK 50 to see Copenhagen from the perspective of the water. Or walk across Kongens Nytorv square, at the end of the harbor, to reach Europe’s longest pedestrian street, Stroget.
• By bike: Copenhagen has 2,500 “City Bikes” that anyone can pedal away on simply by inserting a DKK 20 coin into the bike’s locking mechanism. Lock your bike upon return at any of 110 bike-parking stations to retrieve your coin. City bikes are hard to miss. They are bright blue or rousing red and carry “billboard” advertisements on the frame. Cruise passengers will find bikes available near the Langelinie Pier. To locate the bikes from Langelinie Pier, ask directions at the Cruise Copenhagen Information Center alongside the pier.
• By bus: Bus number 26 leaves every 20 minutes from the Langelinie Pier. It takes approximately 15 minutes to the city center and costs DKK 15 The ticket is good for one hour should you decide to transfer buses. Note: You can change small amounts of currency at the Cruise Information Center, located pierside.
• By waterbus: You can get to the city center by waterbus, which departs from the polar bear statue at the end of the pier. A one-day ticket costs DKK 40. You can hop on and off as much as you like.
• By taxi: Taxi will cost approximately DKK 70-90 and take approximately 5-10 minutes, depending on the traffic, to the city center.

How do I get from the Freeport Terminal to the city center?

• On foot: Walking from the Freeport to the city center takes about an hour, but it’s a pleasant walk.
• Shuttle: Shuttle buses are usually right outside the vessels. Contact your cruise line directly for information.
• Taxi: Taxis will cost approximately DKK 100-150. Depending on the traffic, the trip will take about 10-15 minutes.

Where do I find taxis?
There are taxi stands at Copenhagen Airport, Langelinie Pier and Freeport Terminal. In the city center you will find taxi stands everywhere, but it’s also easy to flag down taxis on the street. Tel. +45 35 35 35 35 (consult your long-distance phone carrier for instructions on dialing international.) You can also use this number if you want to request a taxi equipped for handicap accessories such as wheelchairs.

Where can I rent a car in Copenhagen?
Avis (Airport location)
Copenhagen Airport
2770 Kastrup
Tel. +45 32512099

Avis (City location)
Kapmannsgade 1
1604 Copenhagen V
Tel. +45 337340

Does Copenhagen have a central shopping district?
The main shopping areas are situated at and around Europe’s longest pedestrian street, called Stroget. The entrance to Stroget is approximately 30 minutes walk from the Langelinie Pier and one hour walk from the Freeport. Stroget runs from Kongens Nytorv square to Radhuspladsen (Town Hall Square), about one mile.

To get to Stroget. from the Langelinie Pier take local bus number 26, which departs every 20 minutes to Stroget.

You can also go by waterbus, which departs from the polar bear statue at the end of the pier. The waterbus will also take you to Fisketorvet, which is a large mall with all kinds of shops, restaurants, and movie theaters.

From the Freeport Terminal to Kongens Nytorv, where Stroget begins, shuttle buses are usually available. (See sections on how to get to the city center from Langelinie Pier and the Freeport.)

There is a nice shopping promenade at the Langelinie Pier with all kinds of outlets, shops, casual cafes and more. Scandinavia’s largest shopping mall, Field’s, is near the airport.

Can I spend U.S. dollars or other foreign currencies in Copenhagen?
Most tourist attractions will accept payment in foreign currencies. However, the local currency is Danish Kroner, DKK. You can change money at banks, or for competitive exchange rates and less hassle, change at ATM machines located throughout the city. Of course, major credit cards are accepted almost everywhere.

Is there a package that provides admission to various attractions, all for one price?
Yes. If you’re in Copenhagen for the day only, pick up a Copenhagen Card, which gives you free entrance or considerable discounts to 60 of the most popular museums and attractions in Copenhagen. The cards are valid for either 24 or 72 hours and cost DKK 199/399 (about $32/$65 )for adults, DKK 129/229 (about $ 21/$37) for children ages 10 to 15. You may purchase cards at Copenhagen airport, at major train stations, at most hotels or online at www.copenhagencard.com.

How do I find information once in Copenhagen?
There is a Cruise Information Center located at Langelinie Pier. The main Tourist Information Office is located near the Central Station, just across from the main entrance to Tivoli Gardens, at Vesterbrogade 4A. The staff at both locations will be happy to help you with information on the city.

How do I find information on Copenhagen before or after my journey there?
Visit the official website for the Greater Copenhagen Convention and Visitors Bureau : www.visitcopenhagen.com and the official website of the Danish Tourist Board www.visitdenmark.com and www.cruisecopenhagen.com

Also, be sure to visit Ralph Grizzle’s Coming To Copenhagen as well as the official web site for Scandinavian Airline Systems, www.scandinavian.net, for help in planning your travel to the Baltic. The site features downloadable city and shopping guides in PDF format.

What language is spoken in Copenhagen?
Danish, but almost all Danes speak English.

Is there a place where I may stow my luggage?
You will find storage facilities at the Central Station - open Monday thru Saturday 5:30 am - 1:00 am and Sundays 6:00 am - 1:00 am Tel.: +45 33 69 21 15. Some cruise lines have local agents that offer storage to cruise guests. Please check with your cruise line.

Where can I find sightseeing buses?
Copenhagen and the surrounding area offer many sightseeing possibilities. Many are available as shore excursions from your cruise ship. This, of course, offers the greatest convenience, as you’ll transfer directly from the ship to your bus for a professionally guided tour.

Many cruise passengers opt for half-day tours of 16th-century castles north of the city, including Hamlet’s Castle at Helsingør. The former Danish capital Roskilde is another popular excursion. It’s home to a marvelous Viking Ship Museum. City tours of Copenhagen are also available. Please check with your cruise line, your travel agent or the shore excursions desk aboard your ship for options and prices.

If you prefer to book a tour once you get to Copenhagen, Open Top Tours leave from the Langelinie Pier approximately every 20 minutes. These are sightseeing buses you hop on and off as you please. The tour around the city takes approximately 80 minutes. Tickets can be bought from the bus driver. For more info, click on www.sightseeing.dk

You might also choose the waterbus, which departs from the polar bear statue at Langelinie and takes you to the city by the canals of Copenhagen. You can hop on and off as much as you like. The waterbus departs every hour during the day.

Where can I find canal tours?
Experience the beautiful harbor and the idyllic canals with a 60-minute guided canal tour in English and German. Departs from 10 am - 5 pm every hour from Nyhavn. For more information go to www.canaltours.com

Is it possible to rent a bicycle in Copenhagen?
Copenhagen has 2,500 “City Bikes” that anyone can pedal away on simply by inserting a DKK 20 coin into the bike’s locking mechanism. Lock your bike upon return at any of 110 bike-parking stations to retrieve your coin.

City bikes are hard to miss. They are bright blue or rousing red and carry “billboard” advertisements on the frame and wheels. Cruise passengers will find bikes available near the Langelinie Pier. To locate the bikes from Langelinie Pier, ask directions at the Cruise Copenhagen Information Center alongside the pier.

For DKK 100, pick up a Trek hybrid bicycle with 21 gears at Kobenhavns Cykler, located at the Copenhagen Central Rail Station (on the right side if you’re facing the station). These bikes are more comfortable for visitors who have a few days in Copenhagen. For more information, click on www.rentabike.dk

Where can I book a hotel?
Many cruise lines offer pre- and post-cruise packages that include transfers and accommodations. The beauty of these packages is that they provide seamless travel experiences. They also use centrally located hotels, such as the ones below.

If your cruise line doesn’t offer pre- and post-cruise packages, most travel agents can provide advice on pre- and post-trip options to combine with your cruise.

If you’re a do-it-yourselfer, you can find a place to lay your head by logging on to Copenhagen’s official tourism site www.visitcopenhagen.com.

Ralph Grizzle has launched a three new web sites aimed at assisting cruise travelers to the Baltic.

1. The first site is designed to help travelers survive the pricey Danish capital, Copenhagen. To learn how to cope in Copenhagen, visit www.comingtocopenhagen.com.
2. The second site aims to assist travelers to other Scandinavian ports, including Stockholm. To survive Scandinavia, visit www.comingtoscandinavia.com.
3. The third site focuses on cruising the Baltic Sea region with children. For insights on a creating your own truly blissful Baltic cruise, visit www.balticbliss.com. 

You’ve heard stories of the high cost of travel in Europe, thanks to the decline of the dollar against the Euro. The stories certainly should concern anyone setting out to see Europe on their own. Yes, you may pay $8 for a cappuccino in Europe, and the cost of a hotel room can be stratospheric. But a cruise isolates travelers from Europe’s rising prices. Your hotel room, paid for in U.S. dollars, floats along with you from port to port. Your meals are paid for. And you can always get a cappuccino onboard, even on cruise lines that charge for specialty coffees, for just a few bucks.

So the question is not whether to cruise in Europe, but where to cruise in Europe. The answer? Northern Europe.

But even within this broad region, there are choices to be made.
Northern Europe is rich in cultural diversity, historical attractions, and staggeringly magnificent scenery. Most itineraries will combine visits to Copenhagen and other Scandinavian capitals with at least a day or two in St. Petersburg. Other Northern European cruises set sail along the Norwegian coastline, home to breathtaking views of fjords and quaint coastal towns. It’s your choice. Better yet, do both.

But the world has changed dramatically over the past couple of decades, and Russia, or at least the city of St. Petersburg, is both welcoming and increasingly hospitable. Sure, the city could use infrastructure improvements (such as new highways to alleviate city center traffic and new cruise terminals, both of which have been promised for 2008), but even with its imperfections, 303-year-old St. Petersburg leaves visitors smitten.

On the coast of the Gulf of Finland, in the estuary of the Neva River and on the islands of the Neva Delta, St. Petersburg was well positioned to embrace the rest of Europe while maintaining the grandeur of the Russian Imperial Court. The city’s opening to the sea made it Russia’s cultural oasis while its architecture evoked Russia’s former Imperial power. From 1712 to 1918, St. Petersburg was the capital of the Russian Empire. Having survived 11 emperors, revolutions, economic reform, floods, a 900-day siege during World War II and more, St. Petersburg emerged as a destination that astonishes even the most experienced traveler.

As a cruise ship passenger, you’ll need to be astonished quickly. That’s because you’re allowed no more than 72 hours in St. Petersburg on a transit visa. The norm, however, is two days, meaning that if you plan to sleep, you’ll have less than 48 hours to see this grand city.

How do you make the most of it? Resolve that no matter how quickly you speed through all of St. Petersburg’s attractions, you’re only going to get a taste of Peter the Great’s city. After all, this city of 5 million spans a large area, covering more than 200 square miles. Add to that the choke of traffic, and 48 hours gets consumed fairly fast. There are ways to get a more satisfying first taste, however.

Assuming your ship overnights in St. Petersburg, spend one day in the city itself, and the other day visiting a couple of palaces outside the city. In the city, you’ll likely want to visit The Hermitage, the world’s second largest art museum (Paris’s Louvre is the largest), a cathedral or two and Nevsky Prospect, Russia’s most famous street.

The Hermitage alone boasts some 400 rooms containing more than 3 million exhibits (Catherine the Great began the collection in 1764 with only 225 pieces). “If you spent one second looking at each exhibit, you would spend nine years seeing it all,” guides are fond of telling visitors. You, unfortunately, don’t have nine years. You have 90 minutes. For a taste, visit the “masterpieces of the masterpieces,” such as the original works of art by da Vinci, Michelangelo and Rembrandt.

The Hermitage houses the second biggest Rembrandt collection outside Amsterdam as well as the largest collection of French art outside France, including original works by Degas, Renoir, Monet, Cezanne, Gauguin and Matisse. You’ll be glad you booked a private tour to visit the Hermitage, as you breeze through the museum past the large tour groups.

Plan to visit St. Isaac’s Cathedral, St. Petersburg’s largest, and/or the ornate neo-Byzantine Cathedral of the Resurrection, also called Church on Spilled Blood, constructed on the very spot where tsar Alexander II was assassinated in 1881.

When visiting any of these attractions, you’re either on or near Nevsky Prospect. The famed street is to St. Petersburg what the Champs Elysses is to Paris, or Broadway to New York. Ask your guide to take you to a cafe for a coffee, Russian beer or Soviet champagne (technically, sparkling wine). “Walk along Nevsky Prospect, have a cup of coffee, watch people pass by, and you understand all of Russia,” says Timophey Beliaev, of the Corinthia Nevaskij Palace Hotel, situated on Nevsky Prospect.

At the end of the day, take in ballet or opera. St. Petersburg is chock full of theaters, notably The Mariinsky Theater, one of Russia’s largest and oldest music theaters, famous the world over for opera and ballet.

Late-night canal cruises also are offered. Located on 44 islands formed by the Neva River and 90 more rivers and canals, St. Petersburg is known as the Venice of the North.

Though not all cruise lines offer it, combining Peterhof with Catherine’s Palace works well (you can easily do this on a private tour offered by the cruise lines). Situated at Pushkin, also about an hour from St. Petersburg but only 30 minutes from Peterhof, Catherine’s Palace is striking, with an imposing facade in white, gold and blue. Inside, are the real treasures, including the Amber Room, which was dismantled by the Nazis and smuggled to South America — lost forever. Russian craftsman used six tons of amber to replicate the panels that adorned the walls and reopened the room in 2003.

When I visited in 2007, on St. Petersburg’s 300th anniversary, the palaces and museums were particularly crowded, hard to imagine when you visit St. Petersburg today. There are no “Fast Passes” here, like at Disney’s theme parks, and you can sometimes wait for a couple of hours until it’s your group’s turn to enter an attraction. There is a way to avoid the lines, however: Return during the winter.

St. Petersburg’s “White Days” take place during the winter months when the ground is blanketed in snow. To acquaint yourself with just how beautiful the Russian winter can be, rent the movie, “Dr. Zhivago,” a romance featuring the hauntingly beautiful Russian winter as its backdrop.

“Everybody should come twice to St. Petersburg, once in the summer and once in the winter,” says Timophey Beliaev, of the Corinthia Nevaskij Palace Hotel, situated on Nevksy Prospect. “In the winter, you feel really Russian. You feel frozen, but it is just as nice as summer.”

“St. Petersburg is beautiful in the winter when it is covered in snow,” says Irina Khlopova, of Grand Hotel Europe, an Orient-Express Hotel and a member of The Leading Hotels of the World. Returning during “White Days,” she says, “gives visitors the opportunity to enjoy a typical Russian winter, the experience of troika (being pulled on a sled by three horses abreast) and an opportunity to visit the museums and theaters — with no crowds.” In December, she adds, Grand Hotel Europe, situated in the cultural heart of the city on Nevsky Prospect, constructs an ice bar outside, where vodka and caviar are served in typical Russian fashion.

Your cruise gave you a taste of St. Petersburg. Return during the winter for the main course.

Like any big city, St. Petersburg has some seedy sides, but you’ll steer well clear of those as you set out to see the main attractions. Even so, before disembarking your ship, you may be warned to watch out for pickpockets and petty thieves. Tourist guide Dmitry Ruchkin told The Avid Cruiser that St. Petersburg’s reputation isn’t deserved and that crimes against tourists are rare. The local English-language newspaper reported that St. Petersburg had 792 registered crimes against foreigners last year, compared to more than 30,000 in Paris. Of course, it should be pointed out that Paris receives considerably more international visitors each year than does St. Petersburg.

During my two visits to St. Petersburg this year and last, St. Petersburg certainly felt safe — or no less safe, I should say, than any city of 5 million or more. I even walked Nevsky Prospect past midnight on two occasions and never felt threatened or intimidated.

What may be intimidating for foreigners, however, is the language barrier and the alphabet, Cyrillic, making signage virtually unreadable for Western eyes. The city is working to put on a “friendly interface” for tourists, but it’s slow in coming. You won’t find an abundance of signage guiding you to the major attractions or friendly policemen who speak English, but you will find well-equipped tourist information centers in highly touristed areas as well as volunteer students who roam the streets as “City Angels” to help tourists.

You need not worry about any of this, of course, if you follow our advice: Get a guide.

Q. I am visiting St. Petersburg on a cruise ship. Do I need a visa?
A. Yes. Nearly 70 percent of all tourists to St. Petersburg arrive by ship, and they all need visas. See pages 14 and 15.

Q. Can I sightsee on my own?
A. Yes, but only if you have a tourist visa, and unless you applied before leaving home, you likely do not. Moreover, sightseeing in St. Petersburg without a guide is not advised for a number of reasons. If you don’t speak the language, for example, you’ll have a difficult time getting to where you want to go — and back.

Q. How do I apply for a tourist visa?
A. You can download the necessary forms and instructions at www.russianembassy.org/consulat/contact.htm

Q. What’s the best way to sightsee?
A. Book a private tour with your cruise line. It will cost you more, but you’ll be able to cover a lot more ground. Plus, you’ll move through museums, such as the Hermitage, much more quickly than large groups.

Q. Where does my ship dock?
A. Small ships typically dock on the Neva River near the Hermitage and Nevsky Prospect. Large ships dock at the industrial commercial port, 15 minutes from the city center and not at all attractive. In 2008, two new cruise complexes are slated to open closer to the city center for large cruise ships.

Q. What souvenirs do you recommend?
A. During the past few decades the number of St. Petersburg shops, supermarkets and commercial centers increased dramatically. Shops tend to gravitate to Nevsky Prospect, including Gostiny Dvor, a department store; and Passage, across the street from Gostiny Dvor. Typical Russian souvenirs: Russian dolls, china, red and black caviar, and amber. Be sure not to miss Eliseyevski Magazin, the city’s best known grocery store, named after its founder and first owner, who delivered to the Russian Tsar’s Court. In St. Petersburg, artifacts from the Soviet-era may be purchased, but be advised that special permits are required for taking authentic artifacts out of the country.

Q. I want to return to St. Petersburg in the winter. Can you recommend hotels?
A. Yes, Grand Hotel Europe and Eliseev Palace Hotel. For something more quaint, try Alexander House. The boutique hotel is owned and operated by Alexander Zhukov, a former journalist for Associated Press and other news services. Zhukov’s 16-room hotel is a 15-minute walk from Nevsky Prospect. The hotel features spacious rooms (with large baths), a beautiful outdoor garden for dining or drinks, and a cozy dining room, where on the night we walked in, a fire was blazing in the stone fireplace.

These so-called “transit” visas, good for visits of up to 72 hours, allow you to exit the ship only on group or private tours conducted by that ground operator. You are not allowed to disembark the ship and travel on your own — not even to stroll Nevsky Prospect, the most famous street in all of Russia — unless you’ve taken the time to apply for a tourist visa.

To obtain a tourist visa for a trip to St. Petersburg this past September, I completed the two-page form (which took 30 minutes) and sent it in with my passport (which was required to have two blank pages for visa stamps), a passport photo, and a cover letter outlining my dates of arrival and departure and means of transportation as well as my itinerary in Russia.

These documents had to be accompanied by a “tourist confirmation” letter from an authorized Russian travel agency or hotel that was “hosting” my trip and a voucher from my hotel or travel agency in Russia. There was also the fee for processing the visa: a money order or cashier’s check for $100 (more if I had needed my visa expedited). No wonder that the Russian Embassy’s website offers this apology up front: “Sorry for the inconvenience. Thank you for your understanding and cooperation.”

Our advice for cruisers: Stick with the cruise line shore excursions and avoid the tedium. Even better, pony up for a private tour if your cruise line offers it. You’ll see a lot more of St. Petersburg in the one to three days that you are allowed in Russia, and you’ll (mostly) avoid the long lines and congestion at the Hermitage and Catherine’s Palace, two must-see attractions that are often crowded. More important, you won’t have to apply for a tourist visa.

Even on a private tour, however, you’ll still need to pass through passport control — on each day of your visit. On a Baltic Sea cruise last year, two forlorn officials stamped passports for the nearly 2,000 passengers disembarking our ship. The stern-faced uniformed employees of the state were in no hurry. And they performed their hapless tasks without smiles or compassion. We stood in line for 45 minutes to move 100 feet across “the border” into Russia. Our guide had been waiting for us for two hours. Not to worry, she said: “I am accustomed to waiting.”

There is no way to skip passport control, but there are a few ways around being locked into the cruise line shore excursions. Two companies, Red October and Denrus operate in much the same way the cruise lines do in that they carry a “group visa” for all passengers who travel with them. Still, our recommendation is to book your shore excursion with your cruise line, and if possible, book a private tour.

The visa requirement may stink, but it’s a political issue. “Visa policy is based on relationships between two countries, and we hope that some day there will be no need for visas, but for now they are necessary — even for cruise passengers,” St. Petersburg Governor Valentina Matvienko told The Avid Cruiser during a recent visit. “Russian tourists who go to the United States also have to have visas.” In other words, Russia is not budging on its visa policy until the U.S. does.

Nonetheless, it’s important to understand that the splendor of St. Petersburg is absolutely worth the wait (in long lines) and the hassle (of obtaining a visa). Peter the Great, who founded the city in 1703, intended for his Baltic Sea gem to be a work of art — and that it is, so much so, in fact, that in 1991, UNESCO declared the entire city center a World Heritage Site.

Inspired by London, Paris, Vienna and Venice, Peter built his capital as Russia’s outward-looking city, a “window on Europe,” which is why visitors find much influence from the European Enlightenment that Peter imposed on what would become the “Northern Capital of Russia.”

Today, however, St. Petersburg may well serve as a “window on Russia,” and the world beyond. The city’s museums, theaters and palaces have become repositories for some of the world’s richest art collections and greatest cultural traditions. You — or someone representing you — only need to present your papers to see it all.

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On a Baltic cruise this year? If you’re lucky, your ship stops in the Åland Islands in the port of Mariehamn. In this video we talk with Annica Jansson, managing director of the Åland Tourism Board, about her favorite way to experience the Åland Islands.

Formats available: Quicktime (.mov), Flash Video (.flv)

So many spectacular places to visit, so little time. Here are six of our favorites.

We’re not suggesting by the title of this article that it’s time to begin disembarking from that great journey known as life. Far from it. Cast your eye farther down the page, and you’ll see what I consider to be life’s greatest cruise itineraries.

These six ‘must do’ cruises represent possibly the most satisfying journeys that any avid cruiser could ever take. Those who manage only one of the six proclaim it to be the cruise of a lifetime. But those who check off all six put themselves in a different league altogether. They become world travelers who have sailed the sea to earth’s most wondrous places.

1. Panama Canal – Completed in 1914, the Panama Canal took 34 years to build — at a cost of 30,000 lives. Along this ‘path between the seas,’ cruise ships move at a crawl, waiting in line to enter the enormous locks that flood with water. After water fills the concrete locks, ships move forward to the next set of locks. There may be a cargo ship in front of you, a sailboat behind. This engineering marvel is best savored in the comfort of a cruise ship.Itineraries typically run for full 14-day transits between San Juan and Acapulco, but several cruise lines offer 10-day partial transits to Gatun Lake sailing roundtrip from Florida.

Tip: Head for an air-conditioned lounge early and grab a seat for viewing the ship’s transit — Central America’s heat and humidity are too fierce to stand comfortably on deck.

2. Greek Islands – Experience spectacular beauty and world-famous antiquities during a one-week cruise between Greece and Turkey. From Kusadasi, Turkey, it’s a short ride to the classical city of Ephesus, where the facade of the two-story library, two millennia old, still stands at the end of the marble thoroughfare marked with chariot tracks.

Mykonos, Greece, once a sleepy village, is now ‘tres chic’ with Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Chanel among the shops, but there are still a few artisans worth visiting on the winding streets. A short hop from Mykonos, Delos, once the capital of the ancient world, is famed for its ruins.

Santorini is my pick for the most spectacular of the Greek Islands. Sail into the bay, a huge volcanic crater, then ascend 900 feet to the winding streets of Thira, a tiny terraced town overlooking the Capri-blue Mediterranean.

Tip: The best time to visit Greece and Turkey is May and June or the fall. If you do go in July and August, the dry heat may be intense. Wear sandals and drink bottled water constantly.

3. Baltic ‘“ From the opulent palaces of the Tsars in St. Petersburg to Stockholm’s breathtaking harbor and Copenhagen’s spectacular Tivoli Gardens, few cruising regions offer such diverse treasures as the Baltic. Best of all, most ships dock in the center of the cities and towns, allowing you to hop off and explore on your own.

Founded in 1703 by Peter the Great, St. Petersburg is among the most beautiful cities on earth. The baroque Winter Palace known as the Hermitage boasts more than 1,000 rooms and 8,000 paintings.

The ‘City That Floats On Water,’ Stockholm sits on 14 islands, with meandering shop-lined streets, palaces and parks. Don’t miss the Vasa Museum, housing a royal flagship raised from the harbor more than 300 years after she sank in 1628.

Copenhagen is chock full of attractions, including Stroget, Europe’s longest pedestrian shopping street and the dazzling display of the Danish crown jewels at Rosenborg Castle.

Helsinki’s marketplace, next to the ship terminal, is a colorful introduction to this city. Attractions are a short ferry ride away, including the ‘Gibraltar of the North,’ Suomenlinna Fortress, which has guarded the entrance to the city for 200 years.

Tip: Unless you are fluent in Russian and have a tourist visa, shore excursions are necessary in St. Petersburg. But with pre-departure research, the remaining ports can be enjoyed on your own. Many Scandinavians speak English. Book early: Baltic itineraries sell out fast.

4. Western Mediterranean – From Spain to Italy, this region is a historic treasure trove and the height of sophistication. For the first-time visitor, pick an itinerary that focuses on Italy for its diverse attractions. Arrive in Venice or Rome (both deserve several pre-cruise hotel nights) then sail to Naples where you must choose between a day at Pompeii or touring the scenic Amalfi drive. Livorno is the port of entry to Florence where some of mankind’s most magnificent masterpieces were made. Sicilian ports include Taormina, a beautiful resort overlooking the sea and facing Mt. Etna. Spain, on the other hand, is one of Europe’s fastest-growing cruise destinations, with Barcelona on most itineraries.

Tip: As shore excursions can be pricey in Europe, you may be better off arranging your own sightseeing. A guide with a private car is frequently less expensive than a tour when there’s four or more traveling.

5. Asia — Few places are as exotic as Asia — with such bustling modern cities as Hong Kong and Singapore, colorful markets, ancient temples and stunning landscapes. The most popular cruises visit Vietnam, Thailand, Burma and Malaysia, all with diverse ports ranging from busy cities to bucolic rural settings. I prefer to walk around Asian cities to savor their uniqueness, although many passengers, especially those who do not speak the local languages, opt for tours.

Tip: Ask your physician for antibiotics, and take medication for stomach problems. Also recommended is cruise insurance just in case you need an emergency flight home or hospitalization.

6. Antarctica — A cruise to Antarctica ranks for many as the best cruise of their lives, a voyage to a place unlike any other on earth. Sailing through perilous Drake’s Passage, arrive in a magical place of icebergs a mile across, whales, elephant seals, albatross and penguins upon penguins. Excursions on Zodiacs take you ashore to penguin rookeries of 300,000 birds.

Tip: If you want a real Antarctic experience, choose a ship carrying 150 or fewer passengers. Larger vesssels don’t always have zodiac excursions and can’t reach the continent.

From the cruise terminal, you can get to Peterhof, a magnificent 18th-century European palace and gardens (inspired by Peter the Great’s visit to Versailles in 1697), by bus or hydrofoil. Take the hydrofoil if possible, 30 minutes each way as opposed to about an hour each way by bus, advises tourist guide Tatiana Ivanova. She recommends that time-pressed cruise passengers stroll only among the gardens at Peterhof to admire the waterworks, featuring more than 150 fountains and water-jets that shower gilt statues of ancient gods and heroes.