Texas BBQ Journey

Smoke Shack

2010-09-06T21:05:00.009-05:00

3205 RR 620 N., Austin, TX 78734
(512) 914-0120, no website
Open 7 days a week - until sold out

There is no better way to celebrate Labor Day than with good ol' Texas BBQ. The family and I took a trip to the Smoke Shack in Lakeway, Texas for a mid day meal. The Smoke Shack is really a food trailer flanked by a portable smoker, connected by cords of dried oak.

The Smoke Shack is located just off RR 620 on the northern end of the Lakeway area and just south of Hudson Bend. They are situated in a vacant lot that also contains some used mobile homes for sale. The place offers three shaded picnic areas that dot the property and provide seating for about a dozen people.

Ordering is done through a walk-up window on the trailer and the mouth watering meats are prepared right in front of you as you wait. Nothing fancy, just one man who prides himself in making great BBQ and works diligently each day until all of it is gone. The Smoke Shack has a traditional yet simple menu ranging from Breakfast Tacos filled with brisket all the way to Turkey, deep fried and finished off with a 6 hour smoke. Their specialty is Baby Back Ribs, Brisket and Chicken. The Chicken is by special order only and you can choose either beer can cooked, smoked or injected with a Cajun spice mix. Smoked ham and turkeys are also special order and seasonal.

History

James "Yard Dog" Spears @ Work

Smoke Shack is owned and operated by James "Yard Dog" Spears and his partner Matt Hand. James is the main character and the BBQ connoisseur. James is a former Lakeway area golf pro and caterer who loves to cook. After tasting his BBQ, his buddies convinced him to begin serving to the public. James contributed his smoker and BBQ recipes and Matt bought the trailer and the combination became known as the Smoke Shack. The Smoke Shack began serving in May 2010 and feeds all sorts of RR 620 travelers each and every day from sun up to sold out.

Meat

The Smoke Shack serves up the traditional meats, Brisket, Baby Back Ribs and Sausage. Chicken, Turkey and Ham are offered only by special order at least a day ahead.

The Brisket was terrific. It had a great smokey smell complete with a juicy tenderness that you could cut with a fork. The smoke ring was just right and the texture of the meat had just the right resistance that made a perfect vehicle for the sauce. The meat was very lean - almost too lean for traditional BBQ. Although I enjoyed the lean Brisket, some others may want to see a bit more marble.

The Ribs were the best of the meats. They were served right off the grill and the seasoning was just right. A strong smell of pepper and spices emerged as we opened up the foil package containing the Ribs. James' gave us a knife to cut them ourselves and it was like cutting through butter. The meat was just barely staying on the bone as we separated each Rib. The Ribs had a great flavor and appearance. They were tender and cooked to perfection. The Sauce was the icing on the cake as we chowed down on these delicious Ribs.

The Sausage looked good coming out of the smoker, however its was dry. The texture was grainy but it had a good flavor and decent crunch when you bit into it. The Sausage was improved with the Sauce that provided much needed moisture and this added to its overall appeal. I think the Sausage was a bit over cooked, however I attribute that to the fact that we were one of the last customers served for the day.

Sauce
Another welcome surprise was the Smoke Shack's sauce. It was a great blend of sweet and spice with an apple cider vinegar base. It had a great consistency and stuck to the meat just the way it should. It provided a perfect compliment to the fine smoked meats. It started sweet and finished with just enough spicy twang to hang around until the next bite. The Sauce was fantastic and enhanced the experience whether pouring it on the meat or sopping it up with the bread. I give the Sauce 4 out of 5 Texas Stars for the unique combo of starting sweet and ending spicy without giving up anything in the middle.

Sides
The Smoke Shack serves Potato Salad and Baked Beans on a pre-order only basis, at least one day ahead. This way no food is wasted and they can focus on the meat. Refrigeration is always a bit of a challenge in a trailer - aka "Shack."

Dessert
The only dessert offered is Banana Pudding and that is also by pre-order only. Just like the sides, if you want them you gotta plan ahead. Nothing goes to waste at the Smoke Shack.

Atmosphere

A shack off the side of the road is the best way to describe the atmosphere. It feels like a backyard picnic in an RV park - complete with picnic tables and pop-up shade tents. Imagine an afternoon BBQ at your best friends mobile home and you have nailed the atmosphere at the Smoke Shack. It's different, no frills but comfortable and friendly. It mainly caters to the to-go customer and sandwich lunch crowd, but they get brownie points for making the effort to make the place look inviting.

Most Memorable

The Baby Back Ribs were the most memorable part of our visit. Very tasty, perfectly seasoned and exquisitely smoked. Well worth the turn off of RR 620.

The Final Word
The Smoke Shack is a great little joint that cooks up big time BBQ. It has great food, passionate owners and simple recipes. No frills equals great taste at the Smoke Shack. I am looking forward to trying the fried smoked turkey for Thanksgiving. Scoring a 16 out of 20, the Smoke Shack is Worth a Trip when you find yourself west of Austin.

Meshack's Bar-Be-Que Shack

2010-08-28T11:36:00.010-05:00

240 E. Avenue B, Garland, TX 75040
(214) 227-4748, no website
Open Tuesday - Saturday from 10:30 am to around 6 pm

On a recent visit to Dallas for the weekend, I stopped by Meshack's in Garland for a taste of what the locals call the best old fashion BBQ in Texas. The place was literally a shack, nestled between two neighborhood streets deep within the city of Garland. You don't just stop by Meshack's, you gotta know where you're going to find this special place.

The Shack is located on a plot of land no bigger than a residential house. Its sign is a bit worn (missing most of the M) and the smoker billows with a sweet smell of Texas pecan wood and smoked meats. Meshack's is a walk up BBQ joint with a parking situation that is like trying to find a spot for your car in the front yards of neighborhood folks during the State Fair of Texas.

Ordering is done by shouting into a small screened portion of a soot-covered window. Then a figure appears in the smoky concrete box to hand over a brown sack full of perfectly smoked meat. For everything it does not have in terms of modern facilities it makes up in taste and delivery of some of the best BBQ in Texas. It lives up to its mission of serving only old fashion BBQ and prides itself on the simplicity and consistency of this lost art.

History

photo courtesy of Full Custom Gospel BBQ

According to a D Magazine article, Travis Mayes “The BBQ Man,” as he’s known in Garland, is no newcomer. Barbecue runs deep in the veins of this family. Travis’ wife Donna spent many years perfecting her baked beans and potato salad while working with her father at one of his four joints in Dallas, all of which carried the Meshack name. When her father passed in 1986, she and Travis kept the Garland location running until 1996. They closed, took other jobs, only to reopen again in May 2009. Meshack's was selected as "Best BBQ" by Big D Magazine in 2010.

Meat
Meshack's serves up the traditional meats such as Brisket, Pork Ribs and Link Sausage. Chicken is served on Wednesdays only and sometimes Ham makes an appearance. I asked for a sampling of all the meats and was promptly informed of the $30 pack that comes complete with sliced Beef Brisket, Ribs, Links as well as sides and a loaf of white bread. At $30 it was a bargain and plenty of food for at least four adults.

The meat was served in a "to go" aluminum tin and I couldn't wait to open the lid and taste the old fashioned BBQ. Since Meshack's has no places to eat on location, we took our meal across the street to the city park and sat under the shade of a giant pecan tree to eat.

The Beef Brisket was incredible. It looked perfectly smoked with just the right moisture and so tender it almost fell apart before it hit my mouth. The Beef Brisket received a perfect score in my book and couldn't get any better. The Pork Ribs were equally tasty and the meat separated from the bone on command as the tender morsels packed with flavor melted in my mouth. The Link Sausage looked well cooked and had a great dark reddish maroon color. It had a nice crisp bite and consistent tenderness inside. It was full of smokey flavor and well seasoned.

We visited Meshack's on a Saturday afternoon so the Chicken (available only on Wednesdays) would have to wait for another trip. The Ham was also a no show on the day we were there. I didn't mind one bit. We quickly devoured the meats and then rested under the pecan tree reflecting upon one of the best BBQ meals I have ever had. It was a perfect afternoon to go along with an almost perfect BBQ dinner - old fashioned style.

Sauce

Meshack's offered up two different sauces - Regular and Hot. We tried both. The Regular was fantastic and had a great balanced flavor of spice, pepper and sweet. Not any one flavor dominated, making the sauce a big winner in my book. The Hot was a spicier version of the Regular. Same great flavor but a strong spicy kick at the end. I preferred the Regular but would suggest trying both because they are very similar in taste and I found myself using the Hot as a dipping sauce for the Sausage.

I give both Sauces 4 out of 5 Texas Stars for their balanced flavor, generous portion size and right consistency.

Sides
Talk about good old fashioned BBQ. The Sides fit right in - Potato Salad and Baked Beans. The only options were Large or Small. The homemade Potato Salad and Baked Beans came with our meal and were a perfect compliment to the meats. The Potato Salad had a smooth texture that was more liked mashed than chunky and packed full of flavor. The beans had a pork and beans sweetness complete with small scraps of Beef Brisket and Meshack's BBQ sauce combined. It has a nice flavor that didn't distract from the meats.

Dessert

Sticking with the "simple is better" theme, the dessert did not disappoint. The menu painted on the wall did not list any desserts but off to the side, safely behind the window, was a hand written sign indicating the dessert of the day - Lemon Bunt Cake. The homemade cake came wrapped in aluminum foil. It was a large piece that was moist and deep in color. It had a strong but sweet lemon taste and you could see the pieces of zest throughout.

Atmosphere

Meshack's is exactly as advertised - a Shack. Don't expect any extras here and be prepared to take your food with you. The nearby, well manicured city park makes a great place to enjoy the meal and spend a restful afternoon under the shade of the large pecan trees. Nothing special other than what is important describes Meshack's best. If you're looking for tables, utensils, air-conditioning and a parking lot then you have come to the wrong place. But if you're looking for a neighborhood hangout that has its menu painted on the wall and perfect old fashioned BBQ that will make tingle, you will find it at Meshack's.

Most Memorable

The most memorable part of Meshack's was the no frills great BBQ from a joint that looks like it has been there for decades, even though it hasn't.

The Final Word
Meshack's is a great find and a must for anyone who loves Texas BBQ. It is a history lesson in old fashioned BBQ smoked in pecan wood that is practiced daily in this sleepy suburban Dallas town. Meshack's is a rare find and gets an almost perfect score form this journeyman. I look forward to another visit to taste the Chicken and discover a new delicious homemade dessert. Scoring a 18 out of 20, Meshack's Bar-Be-Que Shack is a Can't Miss and well worth a trip from anywhere in Texas.

Ruby's BBQ

2010-08-14T19:40:00.003-05:00

512 W. 29th Street, Austin, Texas 78705
(512) 477-1651
www.rubysbbq.com

What do you get when you mix the "Keep Austin Weird" crowd with Texas BBQ. The answer - Ruby's BBQ. Located on the northwest corner of the UT campus sits a BBQ joint that has become a favorite with all types of Austinites because of its unique blend of "grunge" style and brick pit BBQ tradition.

Featuring everything from Texas BBQ, tacos, homestyle fries, jambalaya and vegetarian chili, Ruby's truly has something for everyone. Everything served at Ruby's is homemade except the sliced bread. It is a friendly place that is a little bit Texas, a little bit Tex-Mex and a little bit Austin cuisine. It's sauce is very hot and spicy - in a habanero way. Ruby's has limited parking, due to its location, but plenty of room both inside and out for large gatherings as well as quiet corners for studying or just kicking back after a long day.

Ruby's has two outside patios, both covered. The first is an extension of the indoor seating area that has wooden tables and built in counters with local band posters and fliers all over the walls. Ceiling fans help keep the air flowing making it just comfortable enough on a hot Texas day to enjoy. The back patio is more of a beer garden style with tables and chairs ready to be configured in a pattern that best suits your group. Very relaxed and a great place to enjoy a beer and BBQ.

History

Pat and Luke

Ruby's was opened in November of 1988 by Luke Zimmermann and his wife Pat Mares in a year marked by a poor economy in Austin. Their mission is to bring good, homemade food to the University of Texas area and the blues folks frequenting Antone's, and yet maintain a modest price.

Ruby's pits were modeled after the pits at the original Kreuz' Market (currently Smitty's) in Lockhart, Texas. They are made of brick and mortar, with a firebox at one side and the pit itself extending out from the firebox. This creates a cooking area where the smoke and heat pass through, but the meats are not cooked directly over fire or coals - as in grilling, or Cowboy cooking.

Ruby's calls their food "hand crafted" meaning they make everything on premise from fresh produce. Since everything is made from scratch at Ruby's, they have high food costs and labor costs and cannot sell their food at discount prices. (They even make their own chicken stock and veggie stock!) Ruby's beef brisket is all natural, steroid-free beef and the all beef sausage is from the Southside Market in Elgin, Texas.

Luke passed away in June from a short bout with liver cancer, however his memory still remains strong in Austin as a well known artist, music lover and sports fan. His wife Pat continues the tradition they both began decades ago that features great BBQ and a passion for everything Austin.

Meat

Ruby's meat is all natural and they serve up the traditional flair of Beef Brisket, Baby Back Ribs, St. Louis style Ribs, Chicken, Sausage, Turkey Breast and Ham. They throw in some Cajun style Chopped Beef and Cajun Spice Ribs to kick it up a notch. The meats are ordered by the plate that includes two sides or a dinner salad, pickles, onions, sauce and bread or as a sandwich I ordered by the pound for the entire family that included a pound and a half of Beef Brisket, a slab of Baby Back Ribs, one-third pound of Elgin Hot Sausage, one-quarter of a chicken and one-quarter of a pound of turkey. I passed on the ham as I ran out of room on the plate and money in my wallet.

The Brisket was average and although its appearance was good, it lack flavor and I was unable to cut it with my fork. The Ribs were also just average and from a tenderness standpoint the meat stuck to the bone and was chewy. No meat falling off the bone here which was a disappointment.

The Sausage on the other hand was perfectly cooked and had a slight crunch on the outside and moist and meaty inside. It was smoked just right and looked like a piece of art sitting on my plate. Ruby's sausage is the best that I have tasted since beginning my journey. The chicken had a good flavor and was cooked well. Just the right amount of smoke complimented the moist inside. The turkey was a bit dry but had a good taste. The flavor was a bit weak, but it was nice and lean and almost appeared too healthy to be real BBQ.

Skip the Ribs and load up on Sausage and the Beef Brisket. You will not be disappointed. You can also order the Elgin Hot Sausage in a tortilla wrap and sit back and enjoy a quick meal on any day from 11am to midnight.

Sauce

Now this is a tough one. I like spicy food and spicy things but I have a limit to the amount of spice I can handle in BBQ sauce. Ruby's BBQ sauce crosses the line for me as it was just too spicy and detracted from the eating experience. I wanted to love the sauce because it looked so good. Deep dark reddish brown with a thick consistency. But once you put it on the meats and chow down, your mouth becomes numb in a few minutes and you can no longer taste the BBQ. It was jalapeno/habanero pepper hot. A hot that just doesn't go away for a while. It had a good flavor at first, a sweet and spicy mix with a hint of an apple cider base. But after a few moments the spicy kicked in and there was no turning back.

Sides
Ruby's had some terrific sides that could be characterized as traditional and homestyle. Ruby's offers BBQ Beans (very hot and spicy), Black Beans, Mustard Potato Salad, Chunky Mayo Potato Salad, Vinaigrette Cole Slaw, Creamy Cole Slaw with Poppy Seeds and a Side Salad. I went for the BBQ Beans and Mustard Potato Salad. The Beans were more than hot and spicy. They were inferno and nuclear. I could hardly get past the first three spoonfuls because of the heat. They warned me when I ordered, however I had no idea how hot they would be. These were unbearable and the great initial flavor was trampled by the spice in only a few seconds. The Mustard Potato Salad was excellent and had a great consistency and flavor that screamed homemade. It was very creamy and came to the rescue after the BBQ Bean intifada.

Dessert

Dang Pie

The dessert menu consisted of all homemade treats that made you feel like you were in Grandma's kitchen. Topping the list was Dang Pie (a coconut & pineapple chess), Sweet Potato Pie, Banana Bread Pudding, Cranberry Apple Buckle, Cobbler and a Chocolate Chip Cookie (with or without pecans). We ordered the Dang Pie, Sweet Potato Pie and the Banana Bread Pudding. We passed around the plates and collected our thoughts. Here is what we came up with. Dang Pie was "dang" good if not great. Super flavor and great homemade crust made it our favorite. The Sweet Potato Pie was also very good. It was creamy and not too sweet, again with a beautiful homemade crust. The Banana Bread Pudding, served warm was a bit dry and didn't live up to its delicious name. You have got to leave room for the Dang Pie - its worth the extra workout.

Atmosphere

Texas BBQ Art

Ruby's is a great Austin BBQ joint and fits right into the campus lifestyle. As mentioned earlier, if the Keep Austin Weird crowd wanted BBQ then this is where they would go. It is a fun restaurant and has items on the menu for everyone (BBQ lover or not). Its ties to Austin and to the UT scene make it a popular spot for students, musicians, artists and twenty-somethings looking for a good meal.

Most Memorable

The most memorable part of Ruby's is its unique eclectic Austin atmosphere, its Elgin Hot Sausage to die for and the Dang Pie that makes your taste buds sing. But watch out for the spicy sauce and BBQ Beans.

The Final Word
When in Austin, Ruby's is a place to go for good BBQ in a bustling neighborhood filled with what makes Austin, Austin. Ruby's is worth a trip for the Sausage and Dang Pie alone. Be careful of the sauce and be aware of the BBQ Beans. Too much of either of those will ruin a good meal. Have access to plenty of beer to douse the fire and you will have a great time. Scoring a 11 out of 20, Ruby's BBQ is Worth a Visit when you want to do your part to help Keep Austin Weird.

Buck's Steaks & Bar-B-Q

2010-07-31T11:58:00.011-05:00

103 SW Georgia Ave., Sweetwater, TX 79556
(325) 235-4049
no website

On a trip home form our family vacation we stopped in Sweetwater, Texas and enjoyed a BBQ buffet at Buck's Steaks and Bar-B-Q. Located just off Interstate 20 (exit 244) at the corner of SW Georgia and Lamar, Buck's is a local favorite with a dining room dedicated to the Sweetwater Mustangs, the local high school football team. The restaurant has a very homey atmosphere and its strong local flavor in terms of the decor and customers makes you instantly feel like a resident of this small west Texas town. The outside of the building resembles a 1970's style all-night trucker's diner, but once you see the smoke house located in the parking lot brimming with charred smoke and a bright red and white horse on top, you know you're in Mustang country. The strong aroma coming from the obviously well used smoke house was enough to whet our appetites and to call us in for lunch.

History
Little history is known about Buck's but we did a bit of digging and found out it is owned by Michael and Sandra Buckner. Buck's has been in business in Sweetwater since 1985 in three different locations, expanding the restaurant with each move.

Sweetwater is located forty-two miles west of Abilene in the north central part of the county. The post office at the site was first known as Blue Goose, supposedly because some local cowboys killed a great blue heron under the impression that it was a variety of goose. The town was named for Sweetwater Creek and known as Sweet Water by postal authorities until 1918. The site held only a couple of tent stores and no permanent buildings when it was designated county seat at the organization of the county in 1881.

A blizzard in 1885 killed 90 percent of the area's livestock and was followed by the disastrous 1886–87 drought. Prosperity revived when construction began on the Kansas City, Mexico and Orient Railway in 1903. To encourage the railroads, Sweetwater increased its water supply by building a small town lake in 1898 and, more ambitiously, Lake Trammell, Lake Sweetwater, and Oak Creek Reservoir. Still today, the most important businesses in town center around cotton, oil, and cattle.

Meat

Plate #1 - Brisket, Ribs, Sausage

Buck's is unique because it serves its BBQ buffet style in an all-you-can-eat fashion. Buck's serves the traditional BBQ meats such as Beef Brisket, Pork Ribs, Chicken and Sausage as well as Ham. The meats can be ordered by the plate (at the table or buffet style) or as a sandwich. They are priced by the number of meats up to Two and just add $1 for each additional. I ordered the Two meat plate, buffet style with an additional Three meats plate so I could sample the entire menu. Fitting all of that on one plate was impossible, so I opted for two plates and shared it with the rest of the family.

The Brisket was the absolute finest I have had in years. It was perfectly cooked, tasty and "cut with a fork" tender and moist. The Ribs were long, thin and full of meat. The flavor of the Ribs was good and they were cooked well with just the right amount of fat and meat to be pleasing to the eye and easy to eat. The Sausage was average. It looked really appetizing and appeared well smoked. The inside lacked flavor and just didn't have any distinctive BBQ smell and texture. It was good but just not great. I was looking forward to the Ham on the menu as it is not a BBQ staple but a meat that I enjoy. The Ham was a bit disappointing and it followed the same pattern as the Sausage. Appearance set the expectation but the flavor and the tenderness didn't keep pace. Now let's turn to the Chicken. As good as the Brisket was, the Chicken was even better. Perfectly cooked, flavorful, moist and tender as can be. The Chicken had a nice semi-soft smokey crust on the outside and a smooth tender BBQ taste to the meat. The combo of the skin and meat made a perfect bite that didn't need any sauce whatsoever. The Brisket and Chicken were masterful and a work of culinary art.

Stick with the Brisket and Chicken and you will not be disappointed. Throw in a few Ribs on the side if you can't resist and you will have yourself some real West Texas BBQ.

Sauce

After the meat, the next measure of a good BBQ joint is it's sauce. Buck's Sauce was served in a large "crock pot" style warmer that allowed you to ladle it directly on the plate or fill a small cup for dipping and dunking. The Sauce had a combination of sweet and vinegar that tasted more like ketchup than BBQ sauce. It was very thin and runny making it easy to cover the meat but hard to adhere when eating. It became more of a dipping sauce rather than a traditional BBQ sauce. Its flavor was dull and had no real appeal to me. This style of Sauce may have some fans but I am not one of them. It tasted like an ingredient was missing and I just couldn't quite figure out what it was. If you like a good dipping sauce then Buck's is for you and it might go better on their famous Steaks than their wonderful BBQ. Buck's Sauce gets a 1 out of 5 Texas Stars for its underwhelming appeal and non-traditional Texas style.

Sides
Buck's had a variety of sides served buffet style such as Beans, New Potatoes, Potato Salad, Macaroni Salad, Cole Slaw, Peppers, Onions and Pickles. I tried the traditional Beans, Cole Slaw and Potato Salad. Homemade rolls and and cornbread were also served and were very tasty. The rolls were soft and chewy and the cornbread had a perfect moist consistency with just the right amount of sweetness.

Dessert
The dessert menu consisted of all simple favorites such as Peach or Cherry Cobbler, Bourbon Pecan Pie, Turtle Cheesecake and Ice Cream. I skipped dessert because after three trips to the buffet my wife gave me that crusty look because we had another 3 hours of driving ahead of us.

Atmosphere

Buck's is a very friendly place and a great stop for anyone looking for a good meal and great local flavor. Its atmosphere is simple and straight forward with no frills but an obvious strong tie to the community. The staff was very kind and made you feel right at home. The Mustang high school football decor was a collection of pictures, memorabilia, signs, snapshots and banners that seemed to serve as the unofficial historical society in town. It makes you want to come back and pay a visit in the Fall when Mustang Country is in full swing and you can hear the local chants of Go Big Red!

Most Memorable

The most memorable part of Buck's was its outstanding Brisket and Chicken along with its welcoming local flavor. You can't wrong with a stop at this Sweetwater staple and sample a bit of hometown West Texas.

Plate #2 - Chicken, Ham

The Final Word
Buck's is worth a stop for a plate of the Brisket and Chicken alone. Skip the sauce and load up on the sides and strike up conversation with the locals to find out how the Sweetwater Mustangs stack up this year. I am sure you'll get an earful and a better understanding of how the traditions of BBQ and high school football help define small Texas towns. Scoring a 12 out of 20, Buck's Steaks & Bar-B-Q is Worth a Visit the next time you find yourself near Sweetwater.

Stubb's Bar-B-Q

2010-07-18T12:11:00.005-05:00

801 Red River, Austin, TX 78701
(512) 480-8341
www.stubbsaustin.com

Located just 2 blocks north of 6th street, Stubb's is a perfect blend of old school BBQ mixed with the Austin music culture. The old brick building is adorned with metal and neon signs that make the place look classic and weathered, as though it has been there forever. The largest of the signs (pictured left) resembles a church cross and given their famous Sunday Gospel Brunch featuring such items as southern-style grits, migas, fried catfish, and their famous BBQ brisket, it seems appropriate. It was easy to find and located in the heart of an eclectic neighborhood on downtown's east side.

History
Stubb's Bar-B-Q is a Texas institution, known for its live music, rustic atmosphere and authentic slow-smoked, hand-trimmed barbecue that has been making folks smile, satisfied and messy for decades. In the late 1960’s, C.B. “Stubb” Stubblefield (pictured below) opened his first restaurant in Lubbock, Texas. It quickly became a destination for authentic barbecue and live entertainment. Stubbs was ground zero for musicians like Joe Ely and Stevie Ray Vaughn. Although small in size, Stubb's Restaurant was always filled with good friends, great music and plenty of Stubb's Legendary Bar-B-Q.

In 1985 a series of circumstances forced Stubb to close his beloved restaurant. "Let’s put it this way," said Stubb, "I got run out of Lubbock ’cause I was broke, busted and disgusted. I can’t fight the IRS with barbeque and sauce." With his restaurant closed, Stubb decided to move to Austin and began selling his barbeque out of Antone’s, a blues club near the University of Texas, and in 1986 opened his second restaurant, Stubb’s Bar-B-Q. There he revived the Lubbock tradition of jam sessions that featured such musicians as Joe Ely, Butch Hancock and The Maines Brothers.

Meat

Stubb's serves the traditional BBQ meats such as Beef Brisket (lean or marbled) Chicken, Pork Ribs, Turkey Breast and Sausage. These meats can be ordered Family Style (all you can eat), as a Plate and also as a Sandwich. I ordered the Stubb's Major Combo Plate with Beef Brisket, Pork Ribs and Sausage. I also ordered on the side an extra quarter pound of the Chicken and Turkey Breast.

The Brisket was wonderful, tasty and very tender. The appearance was close to perfect with just the right amount of visible smoke rings and a nice smooth flavor. The Ribs were long and thin and and had just the right amount of fat helping to hold the meat on the bone. The flavor of the Ribs was good and the rub was crusted just right on the outside creating a perfect light crunch as you bit into them. The Sausage was a bit of a disappointment. The link I was served was sliced halfway through and you could see the large cracked pepper bits in the inside. The appearance was great and got my mouth watering. When I took a bite, I was surprised by the softness of the inside. It was unusually soft for BBQ and distracted from the taste. The flavor was great, complete with peppery spice but I could not get past the soft middle. The Chicken was well cooked but still moist inside. It had a strong smokey flavor that fit in well with the other meats. The Turkey Breast was well cooked and full of flavor. Like most BBQ Turkey, it was a bit on the dry side but this was solved by adding extra sauce.

The meat's at Stubb's were very good and certainly cooked with a lot of pride and passion. Stick to the trio of Beef Brisket, Pork Ribs and Chicken and you will not be disappointed. You might even forget to add the sauce.

Sauce

Stubb's sauce was served in a large plastic squeeze bottle sitting on the table. It held at least a quart of the light brown and deep reddish sauce that Stubb's is famous for. My first taste was on my spoon before my food arrived. I took a small sampling and immediately tasted a smooth combination of sweet vinegar, pepper and spice (in that order). I have to admit, I have never tasted all of those flavors so well balanced in a single sauce. It was like a perfect blend of every good sauce that I have ever tasted. The spicy flavor stays with you at the end and works well with the meats. The sauce was a bit runnier than I prefer and could stand a bit more consistency to adhere to hand held meats such as Ribs and Chicken. Stubb's sauce gets a 4 out of 5 Texas Stars for its unique blend of flavors.

Sides
Stubb's had a variety of sides such as Fried Okra, Cole Slaw, Pinto Beans, Fries, Potato Salad, Mac & Cheese, Mashed Potatoes, Mashed Sweet Potatoes, Serrano Cheese Spinach and Onion Rings. I tried the Fried Okra and their specialty the Serrano Cheese Spinach.

The Fried Okra was cooked perfectly with a crunch on the outside and tender bite on the inside that could only be homemade. The Serrano Cheese Spinach was the winner. I am not a big fan of spinach in general and had to talk my way into ordering. It was more like a spinach dip with a spicy kick of the serrano peppers. It was great and went well with the BBQ sauce and meat. It is very spicy and not for the faint of heart. It's bold flavor makes it a perfect side for BBQ, but be sure to have plenty of beer or water available if it gets too hot. Also served on the side was a nice helping of sliced dill pickles, sliced onions and a couple of serrano peppers instead of the traditional jalapenos was a unique and clever way of adding a Stubb's twist to the meal.

Dessert
The dessert menu was full of classic favorites such as Pecan Pie, the Cobbler of the Day, Apple Crisp, Banana Pudding and a Brownie Sundae. The pie cobbler and crisp come complete with a Texas size scoop of Blue Bell vanilla ice cream on top. I had the Pecan Pie and it was great and served warm it was the perfect finish to a great meal.

Atmosphere
Stubb's has a great outside look to it that screams BBQ and invites you in for a cold beer and a good meal. It resembles more of a bar atmosphere once inside and the focus on live music (given its location) can be a distraction to the classic BBQ dining experience. While I was there, the band was getting set up and warming up at a high enough volume to make it uncomfortable. Most of the patrons around me hurried to leave once the band began to play. The restaurant seems to have two different sides depending on when you come in. During the day its a classic BBQ joint and at night it becomes a live music venue catering to the college crowd. Either way, the food is great.

Most Memorable

The most memorable part of Stubb's was the Serrano Cheese Spinach along with the great food and eclectic atmosphere that is perfectly Austin. It is certainly a destination and a great place to brings friends, family and visitors to experience Austin in only the way Austin could - a mix of great BBQ and live music.

The Final Word
Stubb's is a tradition worth experiencing and an Austin destination. Because of this the food is not cheap. Expect to spend around $25 per person when you go. It's food is great, the beer is cold and the music is as live as it gets. It's perfect blend of Texas sprinkled with the Austin culture makes Stubb's a winner. I can't wait to come back on a Sunday to enjoy the Gospel Buffet and make my own Bloody Mary. Scoring a solid 16 out of 20, Stubb's Bar-B-Q is a Can't Miss!

Buster's BBQ

2010-07-17T11:26:00.002-05:00

2125 Lohman's Crossing Rd. Austin, TX 78734
(512) 263-2340
www.busterslakeway.com

Located in the heart of Lakeway is Buster's BBQ. It's a quiet little BBQ restaurant situated in the of a shopping center on the Northwest corner of RR 620 and Lohman's Crossing. Buster's has both indoor seating as well as an outdoor beer garden patio that is covered by the shade of a few large oak trees. It is a fun little BBQ joint set in suburbia and they have done a good job in catering to the Lakeway retirees as well as families.

History
On a cold, dreary day in 1990, Tim Cook found himself 2,000 miles from Texas and without BBQ - as dire a dilemma that there can be for a good ole boy from Beaumont. Tim and his wife, Marilyn, were living in Connecticut where great BBQ in general and great BBQ joints in particular were hard to come by. He bought a pit from some buddies in Houston, hauled it to the Nutmeg State and started cooking brisket, ribs and pork butt at local fairs and community gatherings. Soon, Tim and Marilyn opened a BBQ joint in Stamford, Connecticut and named it after Tim's father, W.E. "Buster" Cook, a true BBQ connoisseur and a man who would appreciate the irony of having a "Yankee" restaurant named after a true gentleman of the South.

Tim knew with profound certainty that he needed to get himself and his family down to Texas as soon as possible. A night in “Vaquero Canyon,” Texas had called him home. Within six months, Tim, Marilyn and their new son, Grant, were calling the Texas Hill Country home.

Tim designed his pecan-fired smoke pit from scratch, and with backing from a truly great Texan, Governor Mark White, he opened a little place on the side of the road in Lakeway. That was November 6, 1995. Seven months later, John Kelso of the Austin American Statesman named little ole upstart Buster's one of the three "Best in Central Texas" for BBQ restaurants.

Over the past fifteen years, Buster's has moved twice with the newest (and last) location nestled deep in the heart of Lakeway. There's still a fire going in the original smoke pit, Macon (named after the Cook's oldest grandson), and now a second pit, Beau (named after the youngest grandson), has been built.

Meat
Buster's serves Beef Brisket (sliced or block chopped, Pulled Pork (pork butt, fresh pulled), Pork Spareribs (rubbed with brown sugar and pecan smoked), Pork Shoulder (stuffed with fresh garlic and/or jalapeno), Turkey Breast (skinless, smoked in mayonnaise and black pepper), Chicken Thighs (boneless, skinless, seasoned with sweet rib rub and smoked), and Elgin Sausage (spicy or regular and only thing not homemade).

I ordered the Buster's Platter and chose Brisket (sliced) and Sausage (spicy) along with two sides, potato salad and Buster's beans. I also ordered the Pork Spareribs, however they were already out for the day. I had a taste of the Turkey and Chicken Thigh as well.

All of the meats presented well and had a very pleasing smokey aroma and taste. The Chicken was very tender with just the right amount of juice. The turkey was loaded with pepper and the smoked in mayonnaise helped the meat stay moist and very tender. The brisket was cooked just right and very tender, easily cut with my fork. The Sausage was nothing to write home about and although I ordered the spicy, it had no kick at all. Skip the Sausage. The serving size of meat was good and the sides just right. Check out Buster's menu. Family style meals for up to 18 people are available to eat there or for take out.

Sauce

Buster's sauce came in a cup on the side nestled right next to the meat. It was just the right portion to completely cover my meat and enough to spare to dip my bread. The sauce had a rich smokey red color and thick consistency. The sauce had a little hint of spice but was cooled with a vinegar and tomato finish that complemented the meat. It was a basic sauce with a slight kick. No specific ingredient overwhelmed but was a solid medley of flavor. The sauce gets a 3 out of 5 Texas Stars for its overall taste. Its worth asking for an extra cup.

Sides
Buster's had a variety of sides such as Buster's Beans, Potato Salad, Cole Slaw (vinegar or creamy), Broccoli Salad, and Fries. I tried the Beans and Potato Salad and they were both fantastic. The Beans had a nice smokey flavor and seasoned with onions and Buster's sauce. The Potato salad was nice and chunky and had a smooth creamy flavor. It was a bit on the bland side so I added some black pepper. Nice selection of sides, all homemade and a perfect complement to the meat selection. Also on my plate was a nice helping of sliced dill pickles, chopped onions and sliced jalapenos. Just the right amount to enjoy with my meal. This was a nice touch.

Dessert
The only dessert on the menu was Peach Cobbler. It looked good, fresh and homemade. I opted for an ice cold Corona instead and skipped out on dessert.

Atmosphere
Buster's has a good feel to it. You can tell that Buster's is a family business and that they have a passion for BBQ and the restaurant business. It has a friendly atmosphere and the outside patio complete with live music during the summer makes it a great place to relax and unwind after a day on the lake. The outdoor patio is kid friendly and shaded. The only drawback is the shopping center location, however once inside or on the patio you quickly forget.

Most Memorable

The most memorable part of Buster's was the outdoor patio and beer garden area complete with live music. It was shaded, comfortable and a great way to relax after a day on the lake or just to unwind after work. The selection of ice cold beers along with Shiner on tap just added to the hill country "backyard" feel.

The Final Word
Buster's has really done a good job with the place, creating a balanced adult and family friendly atmosphere along with very good Texas BBQ. I will be back and I am looking forward to trying the Pork Spareribs and listening to a little live music along with a pint of Shiner. Scoring a solid 13 out of 20, Buster's BBQ is Worth a Trip!