Bee Hive Journal

A mismatch old UK hive seen often

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Tue, 21 Feb 2012 22:33:00 +0000

This photo is a WBC style hive with a Cowan hive roof. It was very common in the early part of 1900's in many English and Scottish bee yards. Bee yards were simply a small portion of the owners yard. Very common in rural areas.

Circa 1906 beehive

Free standing observation hive

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Tue, 21 Feb 2012 22:29:00 +0000

Small Hive Beetle Larva Identification

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Tue, 21 Feb 2012 13:31:00 +0000

SHB larva Top - Wax Moth Below

Here is a clear picture to use to ID your pests. I've seen a lot of pictures but most were so small or from such a great distance to be useless. The SHB larva has spines and 6 legs (3 pairs). The leg thing can fool you, as both have legs, but different locations and numbers. Also there always seems to be more legs than 6, you can see this in the photo above, right after the last pair of legs from the head, but technically those are not legs. The size thing is another issue. They can vary in length by age. Don't go by that. The colors are close to the same also.

Here is what I suggest you look for:

Spines - Only the SHB has them.
Beetle like head - Wax moth does not have this.
Many many larva - Wax moths usually only number a few per frame at most times.
Silk - SHBs do not spin silk.
Visible SHB adults present
Last compare the photo to your suspect.

My last advice is simply, when in doubt, treat for them. See the DIY section for traps and other SHB tips on the site. If you have something that works or some insight please post a comment.

Zeskanter and Bruidskorf Straw Hives

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Tue, 31 Jan 2012 12:34:00 +0000

No other info.

Parasitic fly attacks honeybees

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Sun, 08 Jan 2012 05:05:00 +0000

Parasitic flys are attacking bees.
Read the story here.

Old Photo1

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Sun, 06 Nov 2011 11:44:00 +0000

The way it was

Just a rare old photo.

Anton Jansha 's hive

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Sun, 12 Jun 2011 16:48:00 +0000

See Here for more info. Slovenian Circa 1775

Revising the British National for today

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Sat, 07 May 2011 08:51:00 +0000

I've tried to keep up with the bee news from around the globe and gather some prospective on bees and bee hives. It seems clear to me that in today's world the use of hives of old and non-updated designs results in dead, dying or weak bees. This coupled with confusing and argumentative information and poor maintenance leads to further trouble and bee declines.

The British National Hive or the Commercial while a good and dependable design is not in line with today's beekeeping troubles. Most notable is the inability to weather the current pests of the hive. This could also be said of other designs. I will focus on this design for this post.

I recommend that each hive be modified in these manners:

The bee space under the bar tabs has two areas: a flat area created by the side component and sometimes a beveled area that slopes away from the frame resting area. This sloped area should be eliminated as this area harbors Small Hive Beetles, especially in hives that are poorly maintained. This can be done by cutting and installing a standing metal piece instead of the aforesaid sloped edged. 3/8" should be under the tabs/lugs. See graphic in this post.
Hives should have insulation added or a doubled thickness wall on the North or coldest side. Current hives can be fitted with a foam or wooden block under the handle in this space. This will provide for a more rounded and centered cluster during winter.
Until a more successful device is created, oil trap pest pans should be installed that are from wall to wall and front to back. These are very effective on both Varrora mites and SHB's. This could be used with the suggestion in #4.
Provide approx. a 2" space on top of the bottom board. This adds a thermal separation from cold bottoms and increases air flow during warmer times.
Verify that the bottom of frames do not extend below the bottom of the hive body. I have seen hives where frames can extend into the next body due to different manufacturers or plans.
All construction joints should be sealed with caulk, glue or other sealant to eliminate pest laying areas. This has the additional benefit of a longer lasting hive.
Inner side walls of hives should be coated with Canola cooking oil before being placed into service. Coat surface freely, allow to soak in, wipe of excess, allow some time to "dry", then use. Surface will be shinny but should not be wet. This aids in cleaning and helps to deter some pests.
Inner covers or crown boards if used should have at least three vent holes of bee escape size. See graphic on this post.
Choose your cover or top wisely. Some harbor spiders and ants. Some provide ventilation, air spacing and space for food or patties. Some fail at everything. Remove metal tops, instead use other waterproofing materials or coatings. This reduces stress by eliminating the "metal roof" sound during rains.

Maybe some more later. Buck

MULTI-PURPOSE SLEEVE RUŞET

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Wed, 20 Apr 2011 13:33:00 +0000

Found in Turkey.

Bee box, bee lining, bee hunting

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Sun, 06 Mar 2011 14:49:00 +0000

Catching a wild bee colony is the time honored way of building your apiary. It has become a lost art. Here's the information and a look at a 2 chamber bee lining box.

Pearl Agnes Beehive

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Tue, 01 Mar 2011 12:14:00 +0000

Circa 1906 USA. Page 665, Gleanings in Bee Culture, Vol. 34, #10.

Tri-State Beehive

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Wed, 23 Feb 2011 23:17:00 +0000

Taylor Beehive

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Wed, 23 Feb 2011 20:19:00 +0000

J. A. 's Frame Hive - Walker

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Wed, 23 Feb 2011 20:09:00 +0000

Lounger Beehive

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Wed, 23 Feb 2011 20:04:00 +0000

Blatt Hive

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Wed, 23 Feb 2011 19:51:00 +0000

Arrowhead beehive frame

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Wed, 23 Feb 2011 19:46:00 +0000

Zijkant Beehive

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Wed, 23 Feb 2011 19:40:00 +0000

Voorkant Beehive

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Wed, 23 Feb 2011 19:39:00 +0000

Yüskel hive or Yüskel kovanı

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Fri, 18 Feb 2011 14:41:00 +0000

Turkey. Queen excluder in middle. Brood to right side, honey to left.

Adams "TBH" Top Bar HIve

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Thu, 17 Feb 2011 23:34:00 +0000

Takes a Langstroth super.

Bluebee Beehive

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Wed, 16 Feb 2011 13:08:00 +0000

Made by "Bluebee" from Michigan, USA. Listed here because of thickness of meterials and simple design. Takes Langstroth frames. "HD" refers to the store Home Depot.

Leroy Combination Hive - La Ruche Mixte

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Tue, 15 Feb 2011 15:51:00 +0000

More info HERE. France.

Royal Nottingham Hive - Redshaw's

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Sun, 30 Jan 2011 12:15:00 +0000

Circa 1888

Sandringham Hive

noreply@blogger.com (B. White) — Sun, 30 Jan 2011 12:10:00 +0000