Stone has a long history of being the preferred building material for the privileged and elite, but with today’s processing techniques stone is far more affordable and a smart choice for homeowners and renovators. Renovating with stone invariably adds value to a home, is easy to maintain, and unlike many other types of building materials, only improves with age. It’s because of stone’s longevity and variety that most homeowners like to get a good understanding of the different types of stone available and their qualities before making a decision. So let’s look at 8 different types of stone and their features.

Slate

Slate is a fine grained metamorphic rock that develops in layers under pressure. It’s an extremely versatile building material most often used in flooring and roofing, but also in landscaping and for wall tiles, worktops, and fire surroundings.

Slate flooring

Slate floors may have seemed like a fad in the 80s and 90s, but the timeless elegance and durability of the stone has ensured they remain a good investment in any decade. Slate floors laid in the 80s and 90s are still looking good, far outstripping the life of ceramic tiles and carpets laid in the same era. It’s no wonder that slate flooring is experiencing a revival in the Australian home. Slate has also emerged as a style trend in commercial spaces, seen everywhere in restaurants and chic small bars.

Slate floors are hardwearing, easy to clean, and non-combustible, making them perfect for fire-prone areas. Affordable and practical as they are, most people choose slate for their homes because they’ve fallen in love with its natural beauty and texture. Available in a huge range of earthy colours, slate is free from nasty odours or chemicals. Allergen-free, natural, and economical, slate is family, wallet, and planet friendly.

Slate roofing

Welsh slate is the most hardwearing slate you can have on your roof. It’s waterproof, temperature resistant, chemical resistant, colourfast, and non-fading, even in UV light. Welsh slate is generally replaced every 100 years, usually because the timber roofing beneath them has failed. The tiles themselves can last for 100s of years.

Pattini is an affordable fine grained black slate with an attractive longitudinal grain down its length. Pattini slate has been used in Europe, Ireland, and the UK for over 14 years and has a projected lifespan of 75 years.

Reminiscent of the grey-green colour of many Australian eucalypt leaves, Vermont slate tiles actually come from Vermont in the United States. Although they’re at home amongst the eucalypts, Vermont tiles also bring an understated elegance to the urban environment, like in the stunning restoration of the old Sydney TAFE building in Ultimo.

Inspire slate is a manufactured or ‘faux slate’ which is indistinguishable from natural slate once it’s on the roof. Inspire slate withstands hail, the weight of roofers, and is virtually unbreakable. Lighter than natural slate, these are easier to lift and fix, reducing installation costs for most projects.

Sandstone

Sandstone, in all its colours and textures, has been used for thousands of years thanks to its reliability and easy nature. It was also readily available in early colonial days and was one of the prominent stones used in Sydney’s heritage buildings. Nowadays, sandstone is still a feature inside and out of beach houses, suburban bungalows, and million dollar mansions.

Sandstone comes in a variety of colours and textures. Natural Split sandstone splits along planes, revealing vivid yellows, golds, browns, pinks, and eucalyptus greens. The intricate surface of natural Bellandra sandstone offers homeowners character, depth, and grain you won’t find in processed surfaces. Honed sandstone is sandstone that has been polished with fine abrasives to give a smooth surface with deep colours. The lightly sandblasted finish of Coogee sandstone tiles have a characteristic grain and colour that is perfect for a beachy aesthetic.

Quartzite

Quartz has always been popular as a decorative stone for high end applications, but it’s becoming increasingly popular as a replacement for ceramic wall tiles. Offering low maintenance, durable, non-slip surfaces, the Sofala and Grey Gum quartzite varieties add elegance to any environment, and are especially practical around bathrooms and pools.

Limestone

Whether you’re building an ancient Roman palace, the foundations for the city of Venice, or the presidential home, limestone is a stone of choice. It’s also a fabulous stone for contemporary homes. Limestone forms over millions of years from the calcium in sea shells and the bones of sea creatures that settle as sediment on the ocean floor. The result is a durable stone that handles exposure and humidity well.

Limestone is notoriously difficult to photograph, and always more beautiful when seen in real life. When you visit a showroom make sure you check out the Blanco and Simena varieties. Blanco is a bright limestone from Turkey that is great for flooring, bathroom areas, and kitchen splashbacks while Simena is a fine-grained limestone best suited for indoor use. Limestone is so effective in brightening up a dark room that a limestone floor is sometimes used instead of installing a skylight.

Marble

As beautiful as it is, limestone takes on a new life when you apply enough heat and pressure. This new stone has a crystal structure which allows it to be polished to bring out the classic colours and veining of marble.

Marble brings elegance to any home, and often different varieties are used together for a stunning result. Bari White is a brilliant white marble featuring blurred colours. Alba Grey is a light grey marble from Turkey with white lines and wind swept clouds running across its surface. Nero marble is a brooding black with a white veined surface that pairs beautifully with the off-white Blanco, which has cream and golden highlights. An exciting new variety of marble is Blue Moon, a light grey and white colour that combines the classic elegance of marble with the muted tones of contemporary design.

Travertine

Travertine has long been associated with the grand buildings of Europe, including Rome’s Colosseum and the Sacre Coeur Basilica in Paris. Travertine is a type of limestone that is formed in hot springs or limestone caves. It comes in a variety of styles including classico, walnut, mocha, and pewter, but the most important consideration when choosing travertine tiles is to make sure you source them from a reputable supplier.

The distinctive holes in travertine that distinguish it from other stones are formed by water that once flowed through the stone. These holes can be filled, although they are often left unfilled to achieve a more natural look. A good supplier will make sure that your tiles don’t have too many holes and that they are dense enough for their intended purpose.

Bluestone

If you’ve come from anywhere else in the world you may be confused when Aussies talk about bluestone. In fact, if you come from interstate you might even be a little confused. It doesn’t help that you won’t find a description of bluestone in a geology book, either. Across Australia bluestone takes on different meanings, but we all generally agree that it is a hard, rugged stone with a bluish tinge. So in Victoria, basalt is bluestone. In South Australia it is schists and siltstone, and in Queensland it is porphyry.

Two premium bluestones, Mali and Bellambi, are a type of basalt especially suited to different finishes. These versatile bluestones can be finished for many applications. Generally, you’d use sawn bluestone for paving, honed for indoor walls, flamed for wet areas, brushed for a soft finish, and natural for cobblestone driveways and paths.

Granite

True granite contains quartz, mica, and feldspar, but in the stone trade granite refers to almost any igneous rock that can take a polish. The colour and texture of granite depends on the minerals in the stone and the rate at which it is cooled.

Granite has a well earned reputation for toughness and easy maintenance, which is why real estate agents love to highlight the old granite benchtop in their listings. The benefits of granite, however, can be enjoyed all throughout the contemporary home. The unpolished, soft honed granites like Wildwood are very much in vogue for foyers, living areas, kitchens, and bathrooms. Flamed Silver Grey granite offers durability and slip resistance for outdoor areas and is especially popular for patios and around pools.

Now you know more about the different qualities and features of natural stone, why not browse our selection and see what will best complement your home or garden?

home or garden?

8 Different Stone Tiles and Their Features is a post from: Bellstone

Risk of slipping is one of the conversations we have with customers in helping them to select a stone product that fulfils their needs. Essentially the discussion is about safety, beauty and ease of maintenance.

Large shopping malls choose beauty and cleaning ease over risk of slipping when they universally go with polished or honed marble, travertine or granite surfaces. Cleaning floors after hours is a huge cost – so speed is important. Machines move over smooth surfaces quickly and do a good job.

Contingency budgets for injuries caused by spilled food and drink beverages are dwarfed by maintenance costs. Safer flamed surfaces are sometimes used but not often.

Cleaning ease is directly proportional to the smoothness of the surface. Bluestone with its highly honed surface cleans easily. Quartzite – a popular outdoor surface for many years because of its beautiful colours and grippy natural split surface is very safe but a high pressure hose is needed to clean it!

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The preferred choice of stone in bathrooms these days has a honed surface in a trade-off for ease of cleaning and elegance. There has been a trend toward a softer more aged look in bathrooms recently so tumbled finished travertine with low hole frequencies have been popular. People move slowly and carefully in bathrooms as they do walking down stairs so the risk of slipping is moderated.

Swimming pools provide a challenge because kids move like rockets around the edges so the stone needs some slip resistance when wet. Tumbled and flamed surfaces are ideal. Classico travertine has been extremely popular for pool decks and it is surface that is not too glarey or get too hot in the summer heat.

Buyers of stone need to work through these issues and understand that compromises are all part of the journey to an enjoyable result

Stone Flooring Trade-offs – Beauty vs Cleaning Ease & Safety is a post from: Bellstone

After laying out your new tiles or pavers, you’re probably looking forward to seeing that beautiful finished result of a new wall or floor. Unfortunately, many people are surprised and more than a little disappointed in the finished result of their work, because on first viewing, the tiles or wall will be coated with a white coloured haze. This haze is the residue left over from the grout used in tile or floor installation. 

A lot of people are tempted to reemploy builders or hire cleaners to scrub this grout haze away, but in practice it’s actually a very simple DIY project. With Bellstone’s Sealer & Coating Remover, you’ll be able to get your floor looking sparkling new after roughly a day after the installation is completed. This article will explain in better how to achieve that sparkly finish and get rid of that annoying grout haze.

1. Timing

Timing is key here, you want to get rid of the grout haze before it has hardened too much. You’ll want to get rid of it as soon as possible after the installation is complete and the grout has cured. Removing the grout haze too early could bring up the grout that you want to remain between the tiles, and this could in turn create a new layer of haze. Too late and you’re looking at some backbreaking work as the haze has hardened.

2. Clean and scrub

So ideally, wait about a day after installation before commencing the grout haze removal process. Some home remedies out there recommend you use a mixture of vinegar and water, however to get the desired effect make sure you use Bellstone’s Sealer & Coating Remover, which is still safe for use. Simply follow the instructions on the bottle and you’ll be able to scrub away a great deal of the grout haze in the first spray.

There are other things you can also try for more specific issues. For example, if the grout haze is not too thick or extensive, you could try cleaning individual tiles. To do this, by a Scotch Brite pad from your local hardware store, and use some warm water to scrub individual tiles. This is a time consuming and tiring process if you’re looking to clean an entire wall or floor this way, but it is an effective and useful trick to keep in mind if there are specific, isolated spaces with grout haze.

If you do attempt this method, do not use steel wool instead of the Scotch Brite pads as this can damage the tiles, especially if they are more of a sensitive material such as terracotta. Scotch Brite pads will be gentler on the base material but just as effective in removing the grout.

3. Safety

As with any chemicals, when you’re using Bellstone’s Sealer & Coating Remover there are some basic safety measures you should follow. Glove are a must, so as to protect skin from coming into contact with the solution. Additionally, while the solution is effective in removing grout haze, it could potentially discolour metals and cements, so it’s important to avoid it coming into contact with these materials.

Finally, ensure that you properly ventilate the space that you are treating, as the product will create some fumes. Regardless of how you remove the grout haze, after you have finished scrubbing the tiles, give them a dry and buff until dry using a terrycloth towel. This will prevent any residue from drying and forming a new coating of haze.

4. Final notes

Even after buffing and drying, it’s also important to note that some additional residue might settle. This might make it necessary to apply the solution a couple of times if the haze is proving to be stubborn. It’s also worth monitoring the space after you’ve done a removal round. If there is a light dusting starting to appear, then you will be able to vacuum it up quickly before it has a chance to harden and require a more robust removal again.

Removing grout haze does not require the expense of hiring builders or cleaners, and the fact that it might take a couple of rounds of cleaning means that tackling the job yourself could save you a good deal of money. If you are still unsure of the process, it might be worth putting a call in to a professional tile setter (or quizzing the one you hired to set the tiles), to make further enquiries.

How to Safely Remove Grout Haze From Tiles is a post from: Bellstone

Slate quarrying was introduced to northern Wales in the early 1700s. Slate was abundant in the rural areas of Wales, parts that were once submerged hundreds of metres below the ocean’s surface. Today, slate is mined in many different parts of the world, and like other mining operations, has been modernised with the use of mechanical equipment and modern industrial processes. Things were very different in the early days.

A Guide to Slate and it’s History in Wales is a post from: Bellstone

Low to mid-height stone retaining walls are an attractive way to edge a driveway, lawn, vegetable patch, or even just create some structured spaces or ‘rooms’ within your garden. The ‘dry stack’ construction technique is popular amongst homeowners looking to do the work themselves. It’s a relatively straightforward method, provided the planned structure isn’t over a metre high if it’s going to be freestanding, or slightly higher if it has a slope or bank providing support from behind.

Another great virtue of these retaining walls is that they’re mortarless, and therefore come with a ready made drainage system as water just seeps through the cracks in between the stones. This not only helps your garden’s natural drainage but it also means the pressure of water behind the wall is hardly ever big enough to cause substantial damage, even in torrential rains.

So if you’ve got big ambitions for your garden, why not forego the gym this weekend and set about creating an interesting stone feature instead? You should be able to complete a three by one metre wall in about two days of fairly solid work.

1. Get prepared and tooled up

Before you begin, check that you don’t need any kind of permission to start digging in the area where you plan to build your wall. This is unlikely to be the case with such a small structure, but it’s always worth considering. Also make sure that there aren’t any buried pipes or cables nearby.

It’s important to work out the quantity of stone and other materials you’ll need by measuring the length, width, and height of the structure to be built. Try to do this with someone who can help hold the tape measure and write down calculations. Don’t be afraid to repeat this several times until you’re certain you have accurate dimensions. There’s nothing more frustrating than getting towards the end of a job and realising you’re about to run out materials – it’s the worst! Some people find it helpful to use a garden hose to ‘try out’ various lines, shapes, and lengths before they commit themselves.

Search online for a good stone and granite supplier (hint: you’re already looking at one!), or visit a showroom in person. You might want to go for ‘stackable’ stones, those that have at least two ‘flat’ sides at the top and bottom of each layer, as these will be easier to work with. Heavier stones make for harder graft but will give greater stability in the long run. You will also need gravel and premixed cement, unless you mix it yourself, for the foundations. To minimise lifting, try to have the materials delivered as close as possible to the project site.

In terms of tools, make sure you have:

• Tape measure,
• Long length of string,
• Spirit level,
• Rake,
• Stone hammer,
• Two stakes,
• Shovel,
• Hose,
• Wheelbarrow,
• Tough gloves, and
• Tamper.

2. Measurements and levels

First, establish where the ‘face’ of the wall will be by hammering two vertical wooden stakes into the ground just in front of the proposed structure, at either end of the length you have planned. Fix a piece of string tightly between the stakes about 20.5 centimetres from ground level, and check that it’s level with a spirit level.

Using a tape measure, determine the number of ‘steps’ or slabs of stone you’ll need between the top point of the completed structure and the ground. If you’ve gone for easy-to-work-with large blocks, each slab will be approximately 15.24 centimetres in depth. So if you’re aiming for the total height of the wall to be, for example, 61 centimetres, it will require four steps of stone.

3. Firm foundations

Dig out the ‘footing’ for the first step to a depth of at least 15 and a half centimetres, forming a trench all along the line of the soon-to-be-wall. Its width should be one and a half times the size of the largest block you plan to use.

Pour concrete into the channel you’ve created. Pack this down and smooth with a hoe or the back of a metal rake. Continue the process until you have formed a flat, solid surface that finishes just below ground level.

4. Let the building commence

From the bottom horizontal stone layer or course, choose large, square or rectangular pieces to give a solid base. Carefully place the first stones onto the concrete footer so that their front lies flush with the proposed face of the wall. If you angle them slightly forward, it will allow the rain to run off easier.

As you build, continue to backfill any gaps behind the wall with rubble or scree.

Now adjust your stringline to the height of the second stone layer, ensuring it’s still straight with a spirit level. Place another row of stones on top of the first, taking care that the joints are staggered and angled slightly backwards. Do not move on until each stone placed feels firm and stable. Plug any slight gaps between the large blocks with small stones.

You may need to shape some of the stones or granite pieces to suit. The best way to do this is by first marking a line across the width of the stone and then drilling five centimetre holes every seven or so centimetres along the ‘cutting’ line. Insert small wedges into these holes and shit with a stone hammer until the block splits as required.

Continue adding courses until you have almost reached the height required.

Choose the stones for the top layer extremely carefully so that they fit together snugly to give a pleasant, smooth finish. If you want a more secure top, fix the cap stones into a bed of premixed mortar laid on the penultimate course of the wall.

Finally, backfill behind the structure up to the level of the capstones with gravel or any other materials that suit the landscape in which it sits.

5. Make yourself a cup of coffee, stand back, and admire your handiwork

If you’ve followed our instructions carefully then this is something you’ll be able to enjoy looking at everyday for at least the next ten years! Good job!

Build a Stone Retaining Wall That Will Last is a post from: Bellstone

Travertine has been used in buildings for centuries. And for good reason, as the stone is not only aesthetically pleasing but also extremely hardy and durable. The Romans used travertine to build the Colosseum, and as you know, it’s still very much present today – despite devastating earthquakes and run-ins with stone thieves.

Travertine is a natural stone and a popular eco-friendly choice of material. While it does need to be sealed to prevent staining, there is no need for harsh chemicals to keep it looking like new. Regular cleaning is required, but the process is simple, cost-effective, and environmentally safe.

Sealing travertine tiles

Applying a natural stone sealer will not alter the look of your travertine tiles. It simply seals up the crevices and clogs the pores of the stone, preventing further liquids from being absorbed.

Without sealing, travertine is susceptible to immediate stains following a spill. By sealing your tiles, you increase the reaction time to around 4-5 hours.

Sealing travertine also helps to protect it from premature decay and contamination. It’s recommended that sealing be performed every few years to ensure the high quality finish stays beautiful. While it won’t prevent etching, it will guard against staining providing spills are cleaned quickly.

How to clean travertine tiles

Travertine tiles require regular cleaning using a pH neutral cleaner. That means no bleach, acid-based, or abrasive products that could cause damage to the tile’s surface.

Travertine has pits, depressions, and craters that when left alone can collect dirt, dust, and grime. To counteract this, travertine floor tiles should be regularly vacuumed using a canister or handheld vacuum.

The best way to keep travertine tiles looking good is to stick to a regular cleaning schedule and use products suitable for your travertine surface.

Your weekly cleaning schedule

Your weekly travertine cleaning schedule should involve the following:

• VacuumVacuum your travertine surface to remove dust and grit. Avoid using a vacuum that has wheels prone to scratching
• Damp cleanUsing a microfibre mop or a cloth dampened with warm water, wipe over the surface of your tiles with some pressure
• Spot cleanIf your travertine is unfilled, apply a soft brush to the inside of pockmarks. A toothbrush works well for this. Using a towel, soak up the liquidised dirt
• DryTravertine should not be left to dry naturally. A dry mop or clean towel should be used to soak up any excess moisture.

Your monthly cleaning schedule

Your monthly travertine cleaning schedule should involve the following:

• ScrubFollowing a vacuum, apply a light solution of stone cleaner, and scrub using a soft brush or broom. Be sure to work the solution into the grout and pores of the stone. Leave for several minutes and scrub again
• DrySoak up any liquid using a clean towel or dry mop. Make sure that all liquid has been absorbed from the pockmarks
• RinseUsing clean, warm water, rinse the surface before drying with a towel once more.

Your yearly cleaning schedule

Your yearly travertine cleaning schedule should involve:

• Professional floor cleanIf your flooring is starting to lose its original finish, hire a professional cleaner to get it looking brand new again. They will also be able to tell you whether not not the floor needs resealing
• Water testSpill a few drops of water on your stone and let it set for approximately 10-30 minutes. Dry it off, and if you notice any darkening where the water had been, it means your tiles need resealing. The water should not be able to penetrate the travertine.

Final cleaning tips

Keep these tips in mind all the time, and your travertine tiles should look brand new for longer:

• Blot spills immediatelyThe sooner you clean spills and grime off the floor, the less chance there is of any staining. Blot, don’t rub
• Use a chamois or cotton clothA good quality microfibre dampened with warm water is all that’s required for safe, effective cleaning
• Use coastersAvoid ring marks from acidic drinks by always protecting the surface
• Use area rugs and doormatsMats and rugs help pick up dirt that would otherwise be walked into stone surfaces
• Never use anything but stone cleanerWarm water and stone cleaner are the only things that should ever be used to clean travertine. Never use vinegar, ammonia, or citrus cleaning products
• Use clean waterIf cleaning a large area, be sure to change the water regularly.

How to Keep Your Travertine Tiles Looking Like New is a post from: Bellstone

Natural stone is one of the most commonly used materials used in homes and gardens. But have you ever stopped to wonder where your particular stone tiles, bricks, or flooring has come from?

Natural stone was created thousands of years ago when the Earth was just a ball of mineral gases. As these gases began to cool down, they compressed and solidified to form the world we know today. It was during this process that natural stone was formed – the type of stone created depends on what type of minerals were combined at that time. This was a slow process that occurred over millions of years. As the Earth began to settle, many of these seams of stone were gradually pushed to the surface by heat and pressure, creating the large formations we see today.

Stone can come from anywhere in the world, and the type of stone is determined by its origins. There are quarries in America, Mexico, Canada, Italy, Turkey, Australia, and Brazil, as well as many other countries around the globe. Some countries have multiple natural stone quarries, whilst others only have a few. Let’s look in closer detail at where particular stones originate and how they were formed.

Marble

Marble is the result of limestone that has been altered through heat and pressure. It’s a versatile stone that can be used on virtually anything – statues, stairs, walls, bathrooms, counter tops, and more. Usually seen in white, marble is also common in black and grey tints, and has great weather endurance.

Quartzite

Quartzite originates from sandstone that has been altered through heat and compression. The stone mainly comes in whites, but can also be found with brown, grey, or greenish tints to it. It is one of the hardest natural stone types, making it an excellent choice for building facades, countertops, and other structures that require heavy duty stones.

Granite

Granite was originally an igneous stone that had been exposed to magma (lava) and altered through the exposure to different minerals. The stone is commonly found in countries that have seen high volcanic activity at some point, and is available in a huge variety of colours from black, brown, red, white, and almost all the colours in between. Granite is a great option for kitchens and bathrooms due to its antibacterial qualities.

Limestone

Limestone is the result of the compression of coral, seashells, and other ocean life together. There are two types of limestone, a harder type that is full of calcium, and a softer type with more magnesium. Hard limestone is often used in the building industry, or ground up and used in mortar due to its waterproof quality.

Bluestone

Bluestone is sometimes referred to as basalt, and is one of the most common natural stones around the world. Bluestone forms through the alteration of lava, and because of this, is one of the closest stones to the Earth’s surface. Basalt is generally darker in colour, and is used as house roofing and floor tiles because of its hard texture.

Slate

Slate was created when shale and mudstone sediments were altered through heat and pressure. Available in colours from black, purple, blue, green, and grey, slate has become a popular choice for roofing as it can be cut thinly and withstand cold temperatures with minimal damage. Slate is also often used as floor tiling  due to its enduring nature.

Travertine

Travertine is created when floodwaters wash through limestone, leaving mineral deposits throughout. As it dries out, the extra minerals solidify to gradually create a much denser material called travertine. This stone is good as a replacement for marble or granite, as it’s much lighter and easier to work with, yet still durable. For this reason travertine is often used on floors or walls, and is estimated to last around fifty years if maintained regularly.

Each type of natural stone needs specific care. When choosing your stone, make sure you know exactly what chemicals to avoid and how to maintain the stone properly. Talk to the experts at Bellstone for more information and advice on how to get the best out of your stone surface.

How is Natural Stone Formed? is a post from: Bellstone

It’s time to think seriously about replacing those worn and out-dated floor coverings in your investment property. But which flooring is going to be right for your property? Carpet looks fantastic but can be impractical in warmer climates, while washable flooring such as tiles or wooden floorboards can sometimes be too cold for cooler climates.

Experts say that it all depends on what you plan on doing with the property, as flooring can be installed for different reasons. If you are intending to sell the property, you should take a different approach than if you were planning to rent it out.

Renting out an investment property

Let’s face it, carpets add warmth and cosiness to a room that simply cannot be achieved with floor boards or tiles. But that said, when it comes to investment properties it can be impractical for many reasons with the main one being that it’s not durable.

How long carpet lasts will depend on how well a tenant looks after the property. A good tenant will take great care of the carpet by demanding shoes be removed and by cleaning the carpet regularly. But even with the best care, high traffic areas can wear out quickly, and that’s if you have a good tenant. For rentals properties with a high-turnover of tenants, it’s best to avoid using carpet in the main living areas.

Floor boards are a good option. These also come in a huge variety of choices, from genuine hardwood floors to MDF clip-together versions. Although wooden floors are much better than carpets when it comes to investment properties, they also require a fair amount of maintenance, depending on the type of floor boards. A sealant will need to be applied at least once every twelve months to maximise the life of the wood, whereas the imitation laminate floors need minimal maintenance but tend to not last as long.

If you are after a flooring that is long-lasting and wears well, ceramic tiles are the best option.

Available in many colours, textures and designs, this durable flooring option can last for many years if regular maintenance is performed. Ceramic tiles come in both glazed and unglazed options, but the latter must be sealed after installation to prevent staining. The grout surrounding the tiles should also have a sealant applied to prevent that from cracking.

The best part about using tiles is that they are easy to replace in the event that one of them gets cracked. It’s advised to order extras on installation so that you have spares from the same batch number to avoid mismatched tiles.

Selling an investment property

The flooring you choose when renovating an investment property to sell is the total opposite to what you would use in a rental property. Avoid using durable, practical carpet, and instead aim for plush, luxurious looking flooring to make a person feel instantly comfortable and at home.

With tiles, it is best to keep to simple but elegant designs – always remember that the pattern you have fallen in love with may turn another person off. Instead stick to solid, basic colours that can have bright décor added to compliment the shades. A perfect example of this is a pure white bathroom where red towels and linen are used as a feature.

If you prefer wooden floors, avoid using the laminate version as it can end up looking cheap, especially in rooms where wood is a feature. When selling a house, invest in the high-quality hardwood options and watch it pay for itself.

One other thing to consider when you are installing new flooring – regardless of whether you are selling or renting – is to think about the climate the house is in. Humid weather can cause carpet to grow mould easily, while ceramic tiles aren’t necessarily as good an option in houses where the weather is always cold.

Whatever flooring you choose, make sure it’s the right one for your property’s needs.

Are Tiles, Carpet or Wood Best for Your Investment Property? is a post from: Bellstone

Tiles are a well known, common piece of art and building material that is seen in all sorts of places, from churches, restaurants, shops, mosques, and homes. Tiles decorate our walls, floors, and even furniture and stoves. Ceramic tiles are one of the oldest forms of functional decorative art, and have managed to remain popular over thousands of years.

Early forms

The word ‘tile’ comes from the French word ‘tuile’, which in turn comes from the Latin word ‘tegula’, meaning ‘a roof tile baked of clay’. The word ‘ceramic’ actually comes from the Greek word ‘keramikos’, which means ‘pottery’. Tiles have been in use for thousands of years, with some forms of tiles having been in existence for more than 25,000 years.

One of the earliest forms of tile were found in Egypt, estimated to have been around from around 4,000 BC. Beautiful tiles have been discovered in the oldest Egyptian pyramids and other historical ruins such as Babylon and the cities of Ancient Greece. It is known that the Ancient Egyptians would decorate their homes with blue tile bricks. Early tiles were also used in Tunisia, Kashan Iran, and Middle Eastern mosques. However, it was in Persia where the art of tile making was perfected.

Methods

Making tiles during the medieval period was a task taken on by potters, using local clay and firing the tiles on site. These hand made tiles were flattened and cut into shape with the only mechanical tool being a wooden mould that would indent patterns on clay tiles. After the drying process, the tile was shaved flat, and a glaze of lead ore was sprinkled onto the tile before being fired. The whole process was rarely documented, as making tiles in the past was a ‘secret of the trade’. Tile making was usually passed from father to son or teacher to student, and the secrets of tile making were highly guarded. For that reason, designs and specific details of early tile making are nowhere to be found.

The Islamic Empire was the first to use ceramic tiles as a wall covering. Under the Chinese ceramic influence, tiles were glazed and drawn on as a form of wall decoration. They were used on buildings, both inside and outside, and were utilised on public structures of the Iranian city of Isfahan.

Evolution of the tile

It wasn’t until the 12th century that decorated tiles became general use materials in Europe.  European churches of the 13th and 14th century were paved with decorated tiles, and Holland was the centre of tile making in the 17th and 18th centuries. There were many shapes and sizes of tiles available. Round, diamond, octagonal, pentagonal, and triangular shaped tiles were most common. During the 13th century, a more convenient shape and size began to emerge, with most tiles becoming square or rectangular and a standard tile size also beginning to take form.

The Dutch tiles of Delft were decorated with intrinsic artworks, with images bordering the edges of the tile. It wasn’t until all tiles were laid together that a larger image was then seen. These tiles in particular were heavily influenced by Chinese Ming porcelain, and this was reflected in their colours and style.

By 1850, royal subjects and aristocrats who could afford such luxury were adding tiles to their homes and residences. The most popular areas in the house to be tiled were the floor of the hallway and the servant’s quarters, in which cheaper tiles were used. The fashionable tiles often seen in kitchens today would have been highly inappropriate during the Victorian era.

Mainstream use

During the 19th century, Britain had become the leader in mass producing ceramic tiles. English tile making was a booming industry, and tiles peaked in their production and popularity in the late 1800s. With the turn of the century, however, the tile making business slumped. At the turn of the next century, ceramic tiles increased in popularity once again.

As the necessity for proper hygiene standards in homes and businesses grew, so did the increase of using ceramic tiles in bathrooms and kitchens. Due to their stain resistance, strength and abrasion resistance, ceramic tiles were even used to line the walls of subway stations.

Today, tiles are often used throughout the home for both practical and decorative purposes. Many people like to collect modern and antique tiles, and often study tiles of the past to discover more characteristics of our history. Tiles are a great collectible item as they’re relatively easy to find, and it’s reasonably affordable to begin a collection. Some people often choose to specialise in a particular era, maker, colour, or country of origin.

Regardless of how you may use them, ceramic tiles have come a long way from their humble beginnings, and are bound to continue growing in both popularity and design.

The History of Ceramic Tiles is a post from: Bellstone

Whether you are building your new dream home or undertaking that bathroom remodel you’ve always meant to get around to, you’ll find endless options for tiling your floors. If you are willing to pay for the best, then investing in luxury flooring can provide many returns. You’ll get high quality, durable flooring and a look that you can enjoy and be proud of for many years to come. Here are a few luxury tiling options to consider:

Stone

Image via The Most Expensive Journal

 

Natural stone flooring is opulent and durable. Quarrying costs make this one of the most expensive options, with harder and denser stones costing more. Stone flooring with vivid colouring or a rare pattern also commands a higher price. Transportation costs add an additional expense and can be high, depending on where in the world your stone is quarried. Finally, installation can be time consuming and costly, as stone installation requires more time and effort than most other types of flooring.

Marble is a highly valued stone flooring material, and marble tiles can cost up to $35 per square metre, including installation. Solid marble slabs run between $60 and $95 per square metre. Some tiles go as far as to inlay diamonds, mother of pearl, and abalone, and can set you back a remarkable $1 million per square meter.

Mosaics and designer ceramics

Installing mosaic tiles can turn your flooring into a work of art, limited only by your imagination. Mosaics can be made of designer or handmade tiles, reclaimed antique tiles, glass, or small pebbles.

Expect to spend $6 to $12 per square meter on high quality ceramic tiles for mosaics, and $35 or more for more custom or antique options. Installation can average another $12 per square meter. Mosaics using small pieces and intricate designs will require extra time and skill.

For the art connoisseur, some designer tiles even replicate famous artworks. These can cost around $500 and can be hung as artworks or incorporated into bath or kitchen tiling.

Another trend in designer décor is the use of ceramic tiles that realistically mimic the look of wood. High-end versions cost around $18 per square meter and offer some advantages over the real thing. For starters, ceramic can be installed without damage in moist areas of the house such as kitchens and baths. Wood-look ceramic tiles also work well with underfloor radiant heating, an option not recommended for real wood floors.

Luxury vinyl tile

Image via Armstrong

 

For a touch of luxury at a lower price point, luxury vinyl tile (LVT) is an option to consider. LVT is relatively new to the market, offering the look of wood or stone at a reduced price. Higher end LVT tiles have a realistic appearance and are very durable. Expect to spend around $5 to $6 per square meter. LVT is cheaper and easier to install than actual wood or stone.

Carpet tiles

Image via Dubai Furniture

 

The design status of carpeting is being raised by eco-friendly modular carpet tiling in hundreds of options. You can choose from over 70 solid colours and mix with striped and abstract-patterned tiles for a truly custom look. Carpet tiles are easy to install and average $6 to $12 per square metre.

4 of the Most Luxurious Floor Tiles is a post from: Bellstone