Bertha the Bus VW Transporter T30

Its been too long!

2015-04-01T16:27:00.001-07:00

Hi everyone. So much has happened in the last couple of years. I have so much to share with you all. Over the next few weeks I will bring you to speed with

Facelift
Changing of front seats
More soundproofing - its an obsession!
Fitting of coilovers
Fitting of rear spoiler
removal of camper interior
Fitting of Kombi seats

Speak Soon!

Lovely clean oil

2013-05-07T13:07:00.001-07:00

Heres some nice clean oil being added to my 62 litre tank.

Since the installation was completed I have completed nearly 2000 miles and I must say it has thus far been a pleasant experience. Its a fantastic feeling to be driving for free!

I have also now had the van remapped by Pendle Agent Alex at Central of Coalville. Thoroughly nice chap, who in combination with some input from Martin at Pendle HQ unleaded 30-40% more horses from my 1.9 engine. Its a far more enjoyable place to be now that it is free to drive and you have a bit more oomph under your right foot.

Next installs on the van will a Appradio, Wi-Fi OBDII dongle and extra fuel gauge for the auxillary veggie oil tank.

Bye!

The conversion is now complete

2013-04-14T12:32:00.002-07:00

12th April 2013. I spent the day at dieselveg in Wolverhampton while Bertha was converted by the guys at DieselVeg.com. It is widely believed around the Internet that its not possible to run the PD engine in the 2004 vw t5 1.9 on vegetable oil. I suspect that this is because there are a few areas to watch out for when performing the conversion

1. You have to use a large extra tank for the vegetable oil rather than a small extra tank for the diesel and the main tank for the vegetable oil. The reason for this is that there is an in-tank high pressure pump which will quickly fail if run on vegetable oil.

2. You have to fit an auxiliary fuel pump to pump the veg oil from the auxiliary tank, you cannot rely on the mechanical pump driven the cam on its own to pull the oil through.

3. You have to fit two heat exchangers, one to warm the oil up to temperature and one to cool the return flow from the PD injector spill off. The hot oil from the injector spill off will trigger a de-rate if it s not brought back to normal temp.

4. You have too filter your oil down to 1 micron prior to putting into your tank, to be honest, this goes for any engine running on veggie oil.

View showing the solenoid valve, pump cooler module

62l fuel tank bing installed

My WVO (Waste Vegetable Oil Filtration) System

2013-02-15T11:05:00.001-08:00

Heres some photos of system in development

220l Barrels sourced from Gumtree. I gave them a good wash as they were clearly home to some cleaning agent/solvent previously.

Frame built around some lightweight building blocks. I took the liberty of building in our unfurnished dining room as it was cold outside. Work progressed quickly!

I wanted to have a design that was easy to disassemble to allow cleaning of the barrels and also to get the thing out of the door!

The system is based around a 9 stage filtration taking it down to 1 micron! The stages are as follows

1. Course Sieve
2. Medium Sieve
3. Fine Sieve
4. Course Filter Sock
5. Medium Filter Sock
6. Fine Filter Sock
7. 50 micron 10" filter
8. 10 micron 10" filter
9. 1 micron 10" filter

The system uses a single pump that can be configured using valves to allow pumping between barrels and into the container for filling the vehicle.

My plumbing skills are fairly rudimentary and it was quite enjoyable putting it all together as it took shape quite quickly.

Heres the system more or less finished. Just need to move it to its permanent site outdoors and test!

Vegetable oil Dreams

2013-02-15T10:47:00.002-08:00

Hi all. Its been a while since I have updated the blog. A lot has happened, Im now a proud father!

My next project on the T5 is to convert to a twin tank vegetable oil system. A lot of people have doubted whether it is possible on the PD fuel system but recently I found increasing evidence that it is possible and has been successfully done on a number of VW PD engines.

Heres a few links

Dieselveg conversion of T5 bus
www.dieselveg.com

I decided to use WVO (Waste Vegetable Oil) and following the securing of a source of 40-60 litres per week I embarked on designing and building my own filtration system.

This website was a great inspiration

http://www.vegoilcar.co.uk/

These places were a great resource too

http://biopowered.co.uk/wiki/
http://vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/forum/

15,000 Hits!

2011-11-30T03:49:00.001-08:00

Wow! who reads this cr@p?

More Sound Proofing

2011-11-30T03:35:00.001-08:00

Sorry for the delays in updating the blog. I have been beavering away on more modifications to the van and only now am I finding the time to put some words and pictures online.

Regular readers will know that I am keen on making the van as sound proof as possible so that the driving experience is more luxury car than panel van. My latest focus has been to add insulation to the kitchen units, the engine bay and some other areas of the cabin.

Adding backs to the cupboards

The cupboards were initially installed without backs so that opportunity was taken to add some 6mm ply backs and to also add some soft open cell foam insulation to help absorb any high frequency noise and to block out any knocks and squeaks from inside the cupboards.

preparing the panels for the foam insulation

This was a fairly straight forward exercise using some open cell foam I bought in a job lot from ebay. I simply cut the panels to size and then used some spray adhesive to secure the foam to the rear of the panels

foam attached

Another area of focus was the engine bay. I decided to use some closed cell foam here to ensure that it didn't absorb moisture or oil. The material was purchased from ebay and came with a sticky back, so it was a simple job of cutting, peeling and sticking.

attaching to the underneath of the bonnet

Foam as delivered

I also decided to add some foam to the engine under tray as a lot of noise if sent from the sump area of the engine and then reflects from the ground back into the cab. As you can see the under tray was incredibly dirty so the first task was to clean using a fairy liquid and water.

under tray before cleaning

under tray after cleaning

under tray with soundproofing

The last area of focus was the cab floor. This is a slightly longer task as you have to remove the seats. WARNING: please remember do this exercise on flat ground with the wheels chocked as when you remove the driver seat you have to remove the hand brake.

Once the seats were removed the flooring was also pulled up and flash band was applied to the entire floor area. Refitting the rubber carpet was a nightmare job, most probably because I didn't remove the lower plastic panel from underneath the gear stick..... (learn from my mistakes!)

Passenger seat removed

Sound proofing - an obsession illustrated with pictures!

2011-08-18T04:34:00.001-07:00

Having spent a lot of time sound proofing the back of the van earlier on in the project my attention turned to the cab area. I used by iphone to identify areas of high noise (db meter app) and decided that a good start would be the dashboard.

The general guidance with any sound insulation is that the first step is to block sound and the second step is to absorb the sound. With this in mind I diassembled the dashboard as much as I could by taking off all of the access panels and by removing the glove box. Having done this I then added flash band tape to the plat surfaces to reduce resonance and provide some absorption for the high frequency noise.

While the panels were removed I used some synthetic fibre wool to fill the voids behind the dashboard to provide some sound absorption.

After replacing the glovebox I lined the inside of it with flashband tape.

This item is the tray from the top of the dash, as you can see I added flashband tape to lower its resonant frequency and to provide some damping.

I stuffed this cavity full of wool, taking care not to interfere with the electrical harnesses and steering system.

Sound system

2011-08-18T04:32:00.000-07:00

Its been a while since I have updated what I have been doing. I have been doing quite a lot... so here goes.

Heres a view of the interior withe seat fitted. Its amazing when I look back at the humble plumbers van I first purchased in August 2009 and see what can be achieved with a bit of elbow grease!

I decided that the sound system fitted in the van was no where near good enought so I went to Loughborough and purchased a new Alpine CD single DIN and a set of 4 'fly' speakers to replace the standard door speakers and also to install into the rear of the van.

Fitting the fly speakers in the doors was pretty straight forward. I purchased the appropriate adaptors and they simply dropped in. I connected them up via the supplier crossover system and hey presto all was done.

I decided that the 6*9s would work best mounted in the rear seat/bed base and so set about cutting the apertures to fit them. This was a really straightforward job as the speakers came with the appropriate templates.

Heres a finished speaker. I was quite pleased with the result.

I will add a better picture of the interior in due course.

Interior moves on

2011-05-22T04:47:00.000-07:00

I have been very busy beavering away on the van over the last month ticking off small jobs here and there and getting the cushions sorted. I finished off the bed box at the front and carpeted it to make it look neater and fit in with the rest of the van.

fitting the seat kick board

This area would also serve as useful storage and a place to fit some extra speakers.

seat kick board fitted

There it is finished and ready to be carpeted. I used 6mm ply for this, its likely that I will go around all of the 6mm ply areas and sound deaden with flash band or maybe some proprietary material. The thinner play does lend itself to booming which I do not want!

interior looking nearly finished

Here's a few of the interior on our 'shakedown' camping trip to the peak district. The van is by no means finished yet so we were able to create a snag list of things to tackle next.

Interior Build Part 3 - fitting the sink into the worktop

2011-04-26T04:34:00.001-07:00

A campervan is not really a campervan unless it has a sink. I decided upon a SMEV unit which I sourced via ebay. It has two gas burners and a sink and came with a tap that actuates the pump electrically upon operation. The quality of the item is good, the only issue is that no template is supplied to allow you to work out what size/shape of a hole to cut out for it ! I got around this by tracing the outline of the whole thing and then measuring in from the line appropriately and then using those points to describe the appropriate profile.

A bit of jigsawing later and the hole was cut. The next step was to cut down into the wall between the cupboards to allow for the depth of the sink and gas fittings.

Tadah! the unit fitted perfectly. I decided not to use the SMEV fixing method which involved a completely inpractical arrangement of oddly shaped fixing points, instead I opted for silicone... I may live to regret it but several hundred miles later and its absolutely fine.

Mobile Blogging test.

2011-04-19T23:25:00.001-07:00

Journey to work. Not in Bertha this morning.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

The interior build part 3

2011-04-19T13:40:00.000-07:00

With the units installed and fixed the next step was to finish off the bed platform and to begin fitting the doors to the cabinets. I decided to get up early again and have good days worth of work progressing to my goal of using the van at the easter bank holiday.

So heres where I left the the bed platform at. As mentioned previously the goal now was to make it stiffer laterally.

To achieve this a piece of 9mm ply was cut and the bottom left hand corner scribed and jigsawed to fit the contour of the van.

By now I had got quite adept at scribing and the piece fitted first time, perfectly!

I then set about marking out and then cutting the aperture to enable the area to be used for storage. The eagle eyed amongst you will have spotted that the other side of the bed platform had been finished also. the result of fitting the both of these panels was that the whole structure became incredibly stiff, a quick test with me trying to move it with my body weight proved this!

The interior build Part 2

2011-04-19T13:31:00.000-07:00

With the bed platform given a jumpstart due to teamwork between myself, my Dad and my Mam the next weekend was set for further leaps forward. The weather was also getting much better and bank holidays approaching fast - I decided to up the ante. This particular weekend I decided to be up and working on the van by 8am...

I was keen to get started on the other elements of the kitchen install and as mentioned previously this meant a trip to Ikea to get the units and doors. I decided that this weekend that I would work in the courtyard of my apartment building (it was a lovely day).

The first job was to build all the units. Ikea units are pretty straightforward to put together, if a little boring! Its quickly done and then I started the job of adapting the units to fit the contours of the vehicle.

In order to get the contours correct I used the 'scribing' technique which was passed from Father to Son in the recent bed platform build. This enabled me to , relatively quickly, get the cabinets cut to fit over the wheel arch and to fit into the rear portion, near the doors.

It is important to treat the collection of units as one unit during this fitting process. What you will find if you decide to follow a similar path is that you have to space the units a little bit out from the wall to ensure you compensate for the curve in towards the roof of the vehicle. I suggest that you build all the units up, fix the position along the length of the vehicle before starting your scribing exercise.

After not too long an the use of a jigsaw I got the units to fit very nicely. I was very pleased with myself at this stage!

Next was to tackle the top unit at the rear. This was a little more tricky to get right as there are two dimensions that you need to scribe in.

Heres where I got to by the end of the day. Units were all in and I fixed them to the floor using screws into the ply and used a collection of brackets to fix to the walls. A good days work.

The interior build Part 1

2011-04-19T13:13:00.000-07:00

I've been quiet for a few weeks online but that doesn't mean I haven't been busy. I have been concentrating on the interior build. I had been researching the best way to do this for some time and I came to the conclusion that I would attempt an 'Ikea Build'. The reason for this choice is that I wanted to have a clean look and I decided that the extra weight (20-30kg) over a custom lightweight ply approach was a penalty I was willing to live with.

You would have seen from previous posts that I had already purchased a Volkswares rock 'n' roll bed. This meant that I would have to build the rear of the bed - this was the first thing that I focused on. I picked a weekend when my Dad would be around as he is a very handy gentleman with wood and other practical things AND, of course, I enjoy working with him!

I decided that we would work outside my brothers house. It was a relatively fine day (there was a brief shower) and the tools that I needed were all within easy reach.

Here's what we started with. I had removed the bed to give space but had previously worked out how long, high and wide the platform needed to be.

A trip to local builders merchant (Wickes) was needed to assemble the materials. I chose a 9mm ply and some 30x40mm battens for the supports and cross members.

Here's my dad, smiling, he loves his son's projects :-)

A quick double check on the beds location was needed to ensure we got it right first time. (Measure twice, cut once etc...... I've learnt my lessons!)

I had prepared the side panels separately so we had a bit of a head start. The side panels were made from a 12mm MDF panels with battens glued and screwed on the top edge.

Here you can see the arrangement of the side panels as described above. We started by bracketing this support in place. A large set square was necessary as you can't really rely on a spirit level in a vehicle....

Naturally Dad got to work in following my instructions... hah hah!

We also fitted some vertical supports to take load down into the floor.

These were screwed in place to the side panels and then the side panel was bracketed to the floor.

The same was repeated on the other side of the van and four cross members were fitted to take the weight of the two adults that could be on the platform at any one time.

Even my Mam decided to get involved at this point. The next step was to work on the platform lid itself, this was made from two layers, a layer of 12mm MDF roughly shaped to the contours of the van followed by a more accurately shaped 9mm ply sheet.

This top sheet was screwed multiple times to the structure beneath leading to a very strong structure in the vertical plane. What it lacks at this stage is any kind of triangulation to prevent lozenging - this is covered later.

As you can see it is currently an open structure that will provide a lot of storage space underneath.

At this point we left it as it was starting to rain and we had a deadline to meet with a family meal to attend.

Front Door Insulation

2011-02-27T06:10:00.000-08:00

I am on a mission to make my van as quiet inside as possible. The work done in the rear has done a lot of good things making it night and day difference from the only empty van. However, there is more to be done!

The rear of the van is probably the best it will be and only suffers from occasional resonance due to it still being a large empty space. The addition of furniture, soft furnishings and other items in the rear will reduce the expanse of flat panels which should reduce noise generation and reverberation substantially. I also plan to have a fitted but removable carpet made with integrated underlay.

So, the focus at present turns to the front of the van and at this point, the front doors. Doing a simple tap resonance test tells me that the current doors are going to be highly active and, given their large flat nature, will be pretty efficient at transmitting any vibration input that they have. I decided to put a stop to this with a 2 step approach

1. Increase the mass of the panel to put the resonant frequency out of range and to employ the use of a material that will absorb some of the energy in the process (Bitumen flashing tape!)
2. Provide heat and sound insulation by using a synthetic wool (loft insulation)

This is a pretty easy job to do the only tools you will need is a torx driver, philips screwdriver and trim removal tool. First thing to do is to remove the door trim.

1. Pull up and off the handle cover
2. Unscrew the 2 philips screws holding the handle assembly to the door frame (no need to remove the handle)
3. Undo the 4 torx screws (1 in the middle of the door and 3 at the bottom of the door)
4. Remove the window winder by popping the spacer in the opposite direction of the handle
5. Prize carefully the pop fixings and then lift the door card up and off (Remember to unhook the door catch and disconnect any wiring you may have)

After removing the door card I then set about removing the speaker to that I could access the inside of the door. Once this was done I then put as many pieces of flashing tape that I could onto the door panel and then reassembled the speaker in to the door. (I do intend on taking the whole metal inner door piece off at some point to really do this job properly)

Next step was to attach the wool to the door so that I could sandwich it between the door card and the door. I used a very sticky waterproof clear tape used for repairing roofs to attach the wool.

Next step was to reassemble it all. This was a little tricky because of the pressure of the springy insulation buy only took about 20mins. Finally I repeated on the other door.

The difference is clear and I only have the cab floor, bonnet and behind the dashboard to do to make my T5 the quietest there is!

Rock n' Roll !

2011-02-27T04:50:00.000-08:00

I collected my Rock n Roll bed yesterday from Volkswares in Lichfield. I have been researching beds for a long while and I decided to go for the bed after viewing it at Dubfreeze the weekend prior. The attention to detail and careful design attracted me even though this particular design of rock n roll bed requires you to build a platform at the rear.

The people I met at Volkswares were very friendly and I recommend their products. I will be purchasing their awning connection system next, take a look its really neat.

work in progress

It took me about 45mins to put the bed together but I was really taking my time! It went together pretty well and didn't require any adjusting once assembled.

the finished item

I am now in the process of deciding how it should fit in the Van. The key decision to make is to ensure that the length of the bed is correct so that we are comfortable. Here are some images of me mocking up its position.

upright position

flat position (note how is higher when down)

I intend to mount the bed in such a way that it is easily removable for the times I need for storage space in the van. To do this I will installing fixing points through the floor to that I can un-screw the bed easily.

view from the driving area

I intend to begin designing and building the rear platform/storage compartment over the next few days and then fixing things in permanently.

Spot Lights and tight spots

2011-02-20T15:02:00.000-08:00

Another job I got around to doing was to fit the spot lights in the front. I thought I'd also show you the car lift that I have to go in and out of everyday. Regular readers will recall the need for lowering the van. Heres proof. Theres about an inch to spare up top and I've have to fold the windows in the get the width down...

Bertha being born

I have'nt wired them in yet but when I do I will share with you how its done.

You've got to keep chipping away

2011-02-20T14:58:00.000-08:00

Scruffy looking tie down points

I've been meaning to finish off the rear of the van for a little while. One benefit of doing little jobs one at a time is that you are more inclined to finish them off properly rather than rush ahead because you have a big stock of stuff that you can't wait to get installed.

I spent an hour or so this week concentrating on finishing off the back of the van, namely, the tie down points. I got hold of the plastic mouldings from TPS (trade volkswagen parts) for roughly £2 each, they tried to sell me some machined cylindrical spacers but they wanted nearly £6 each for them... I decided that they were unnecessary given than all I would ever me lashing down would be a mountain bike.

First thing I realised while trying to fit the 'cups' was that the holes in the ply floor were the wrong shape (teardrop rather than circular) so I decided to open them up using my Dremel rather than taking the whole floor out again. I made a template and got to work.

Dremel'd holes

The keen eyed readers among you will realise that the picture above shows the van before the rear carpeting was finished. Thats because I did this piece of work while waiting for the 'spline drive' bits to arrive.

spline drive bit set

I got a set off of ebay for about £5 and they were just the job. It took me a few mins to remove the tie down metal work, give them a clean and re-assemble with the plastic cups. I think it makes a hell of a difference.

tie-down cup fitted

4000 hits - Thanks for encouragement

2011-02-19T04:02:00.000-08:00

Wow 4000 hits now. Thanks for messages, questions and general encouragement. I'm off to Dubfreeze this Sunday to choose the next items in conversion journey. I will be updating the blog tomorrow with a few little bits and pieces that I have done this last week.

Cheers!

A bit more carpeting

2011-02-13T15:02:00.000-08:00

Don't you just hate it when you start a job, it looks half decent but you haven't quite finished it. Well I have this situation with the rear carpeting. I decided to chip away at it tonight and do the carpeting around the rear doors. I purchased some extra silver carpet from Megavanmats.co.uk and got to work. This whole sequence took me 45mins.

Before I started, note the mud on the vinyl from MTBing!

Half way through the job

The combination of good quality spray contact adhesive, some previous experience, very sharp knives, nice stretchy carpet meant that it didn't take long to make a big difference to this otherwise 'tatty' bit of the van

A bit of trimming as I went along

All the way around now

I also decided to trim where the rear doors close for completeness

Ta-Dah

I also plan to carpet more of the rear doors. Obviously you have to be careful and midfull of the seals otherwise you could end up with soggy carpet. More on this in a future update. Next updat will focus on the fitting of the trim pieces to the tie down points. As you will see they look a bit ugly at the moment - we'll soon sort that out!

Fitting wind deflectors to front windows

2011-02-13T14:51:00.000-08:00

This is a really easy job. I've been after a set of these for a while. They are practical in that they let you have the window down a bit without the Mrs. hair blowing everywhere and when your sleeping in the back of the van you can have the windows down a bit and still have security.

I sourced these from Ebay, they are made in Poland and seem decent quality. They are made by a company called Heko.

Heko wind deflectors as they arrive

fitting involved effectively 'jamming' them in an open window frame!

Theres one fitted

Theres the other fitted

Heres how they look with the windows up.

Easy peasy. I recommend them, they look pretty cool as well.

Number plates and LED Number plate lights

2011-02-13T14:46:00.000-08:00

I've had the same number plates on the van since I purchased it last September. The dealer had just fitted some stickers to them and had not put new plates on. I've always quite fancied the pressed aluminium plates so I decided to go ahead and get some.

I found plenty of suppliers on Ebay and decided to get the plates with the legal GB font so that I would not attract any attention from the cops. They arrived in a nicely packaged box with some sticky pads for fitment.

Original plastic plates

Pressed Aluminium plates

I think that they look loads better and are quite a subtle addition to the van. As you can imagine they were incredibly easy to fit.

To finish them off I got myself some LED lamps to replace the filament bulbs. I figured that they would look better and more modern than standard warm glow from the standard bulbs. Removing the standard lamps was pretty straightforward, all you need is a philips screw driver.

pulling out the lens assembly on rear numberplate light

After removing the screws you will need to get your nail or another suitable object to lever out the lens, bulb and connector assembly. I found that the plastic that retains the contacts broke very easily and ended up having to buy a replacement lens assy from VW TPS.

VW T5 number plate light lens

I got the LED bulbs from Ebay. Below is a picture of the packet so that you can source them yourselves. They are T11 39mm LED lamps

VW LED lamp for numberplate

VW LED lamp for numberplate T11 39mm

Fitting the LED bulb is easy, however refitting the lens and bulb assembly is a little tricky and requires some patience. The design of it is so that the process of fitting makes the electrical contact to make them work. Therefore if they don't work first time, make sure that the metal contacts are actually making contact and that the metal inside the socket is not corroded.

Before - with filament bulbs

After - with LED bulbs

The project moves on

2011-02-13T14:28:00.000-08:00

Its been a couple of weeks since I updated the blog. During those weeks I have completed a multitude of small jobs which I will tell you about shortly. I will start with some interior modifications that I have been working when I have had 30mins here and there over the last couple of weeks.

The inside of the van, particularly the dashboard has its fair share of scratches, fair play I guess given it did have a previous life as a plumbers van as far as I can tell. I had been researching the various ways of sprucing up the interior without making it look like a tarts handbag (my mother taught me that phrase - Hi Mam). I stumbled upon a material made by 3M know as Di-Noc which is architectural grade adhesive film that is available in a plethora of textures, patterns and colours. I decided to go with a carbon fibre effect. Now, I know what you are thinking... thats going to look naff etc. Well I thought that until I saw the stuff for myself! I previously worked for 6 years in motorsport (F1, MotoGP, WRC etc) so I've seen plenty of things made from carbon fibre - in fact I've designed a few components myself also - so I'm pretty familiar with what the stuff looks like. The Di-Noc material is very effective with its 3D reflective texture, I challenge the untrained eye to tell the difference.

The plan was to target a few subtle areas of the dashboard which would have doubly beneficial effect of hiding where there were scratches.

I decided to focus on the strip of trim that runs underneath the glovebox and the corresponding pieces along the dash. Its pretty easy to remove, just stick your nail in and pull off from the right hand corner.

In order to get the small piece on the left you have to take the end of the dash off (the bit the mates with the door). This also just pulls off quite easily revealing the Torx screw that you need to undo to get the panel off.

You can then take the small piece of trim off. Its a similar story on the other side of the dash near the headlight controls.

Heres my first ever attempt at 'wrapping' the Di-Noc onto this small piece of trim. I have to say it is pretty easy. It has some criss-cross channels on the rear which help prevent bubbles and with a little help of a hair drier and some stretching to get it to mould to the 3D shapes it goes on very easily as you will see.

Small panel that fits to the left of the glovebox panel

Panel from below the glove box prior to fitting

Di-Noc carbon fibre trim on the previously scratched panels

Heres the finished effect. I am quite proud of myself ! I'd really recommend doing this, Di-Noc is available in lots of different finishes.

view of dash showing Di-Noc carbon trim around the light swtiches

I also did the ashtray/cup holders and the fuse box box cover. I reckon the whole process took me about 2 hrs and cost me less than £20. I bought a 1m x 0.7m piece and still have loads left which I will use on some other things as the build progresses

Drinks holder and fuse box

New update coming this weekend

2011-02-09T09:55:00.000-08:00

Hi All

I've been a bit busy recently with a visit down to the big smoke for a shopping trip. However, I have had some time this week to do a few things on the Van.

Wind deflectors for the front windows
New pressed Aluminium Number plates
LED number plate bulbs
Di-Noc carbon fibre interior trim

I will share with you how I did the above and also the items I plan to do this weekend which are

Finish off carpeting around the rear of the van by the doors
Fit the tie down point trim pieces
More Di-Noc carbon fibre trim work

Hope you drop by to take a look

Cheers