How to Choose Your Underwear (Mr. Porter)
“Underpants. You might think they don’t matter because no one sees them, but you’d be wrong. What happens if you get knocked over by a bus and the medics remove your trousers? What happens if you spill a hot drink all over your legs and have to remove your scalding chinos in the middle of the office? What happens if you get lucky on a night you weren’t expecting any action? And don’t imagine other guys in the gym, gay or straight, aren’t going to notice either. With a little help from the purveyors of very public-worthy undergarments, Derek Rose, here are some considerations worth addressing.”

Charvet: Heart On The Sleeve (Billionaire)
““We also ask many questions so we can advise on the best shapes, collar, colours,” says Colban. A paper pattern is made, followed by a prototype that allows the fit to be precision-tweaked. It takes four to five weeks before the finished garment is ready. The process, she says, is a pleasurable one. Clients often spend hours choosing the perfect fabric and discussing the nuances of weight and hue.”

It Takes Five Tailors (A Suitable Wardrobe)
“With apologies to the biography of the late Adolphe Menjou, I have the less than ordinary habit of using several tailors each year. Each does some things better than the others which is the point of this post. So, for the gentleman who asked, here they are.”

People Behind the Industry – Michael Hill (DressLikeA)
“Although we produce a new tie collection every season within that there is a degree of continuity – we certainly consider it evolution as opposed to revolution and I suppose that is reflected in my own style. I will wear a simple madder neat or navy grenadine tie on a consistent basis, interspersed from time to time with ties that might have my favourite yarn developments for the season or colour combinations which we’ve been working on. I dress seasonally but mix up the fabrics and textures. I love the Winter, not least I confess because of the great cloth one can wear in those months but even then I love to wear a great tweed with a linen shirt for example. I spend the working day in a factory setting so there is a degree of practically to how I dress, a working uniform if you like, smart comfortable.”

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When I heard designer Michael Bastian was collaborating with Japanese fashion giant UNIQLO I became very excited. I love what he has done at GANT; masculine and wearable menswear that makes any man’s wardrobe instantly more interesting without inviting too much attention. GQ posted the designs in the collection and I thought they looked good and would be getting quite a number of pieces.

When I visited UNIQLO over the weekend I was pleasantly surprised that it had already reached our shores about a week earlier than the US release (May 20). However, my excitement was tempered when I saw them in person. I felt some of the designs were done for the sake of having various colorways. There were also designs that didn’t make it to the GQ preview; many of them having Western-style detailing on the shoulders which I didn’t like at all. Some of the patterns were quite large, only looked flattering on models and under good lighting. I also did not see some of the designs in the GQ preview so maybe they are coming in the next batch. Each shirt retails for Php 990.

Out of the 20 or so designs I saw I picked out two which I felt looked great. The first one is a navy polo shirt with red stripes. I loved this one instantly because it reminded me of rugby shirts. Most people wear plain polo shirts and this one stands out in a subtle way. The cloth they used is densely knitted which has better drape and also reflect its rugby roots.The second one is a white polo shirt with a blue micro paisley pattern. I often see paisley on ties and pocket squares and felt that adding paisley to my wardrobe would make it more interesting. The cloth is thin and lightweight giving it a breezy and casual feel that’s perfect for the summer. And with its button-down collar it works great under a navy sport coat and chinos.

Photo Source: GQ

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This post is sponsored by Dockers

Next to jeans, the chambray shirt is probably the most iconic piece in workwear (real workwear, not officewear). And at the height of the workwear craze in #menswear I had a shirt made with a densely woven black chambray cloth. Chambray comes from the word Cambrai which is a town in northern France from where the fabric was originally from. Chambray is woven with a white weft and typically an indigo warp which creates a fabric similar to denim but is generally much lighter. Heavy versions of chambray were made into work shirts giving the rise to the term “blue collar” referring to laborers such as miners.

The chambray shirt is no longer worn by laborers these days but it still has enduring appeal to men who want to look rugged yet sophisticated. Chambray shirts are utilitarian in nature; typically having two breast pockets and extended collars which allow it to be fastened without it being too close to the skin. This season Dockers has many versions of the iconic piece. They have a dark indigo (the one I’m wearing) and light indigo that is slubby in nature as well as a darker indigo and red that is smoother in texture. In addition it has two styles in plaid that are very interesting.

Wearing a chambray shirt isn’t difficult if you take cues from the workwear era. A great pair of jeans and brogues is all you need to achieve that timeless Americana look. As with the nature of workwear one doesn’t wear chambray shirts close to the body. Tuck it in as workers did back then and roll up your sleeves like you are ready to get down and dirty.

Shirt by Dockers. Jeans by Pherrow’s. Shoes by Sagara Indonesia. Watch by Timex.

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The Great Gatsby’s Fabulous Betrayal of 1920s Fashion (The Atlantic)
“But they don’t look quite as we expected to see them. The colors are richer, the dresses more bespangled, and the flappers less perky. This Gatsby isn’t the Gatsby of John Held, Jr. cartoons, nor is it Boardwalk Empire. It’s darker, grittier, and much sexier than the priggish Fitzgerald could have imagined. It’s a 21st century Gatsby, set in the 1920s, which, paradoxically, ups its connection to the decadent period it depicts. If you want historically accurate costumes, you’ll be better served by PBS. If you want to understand the social and cultural meaning of clothes in the 1920s, then this movie delivers.”

Denim Lore with Kiya Babzani, Part One | Part Two (Put This On)
“I mean fabric that has been singed, mercerized, calendered, and sanforized. They’ve taken every bit of life out of the fabric, leaving something very smooth and even. With denim treated like this – yes, you’ll normally need infrequent washings to get a very high-contrast fade at the end. But what most people don’t talk about is how if you buy a pair of jeans made from unsanforized denim, you’ll get these kinds of fades even if you washed your jeans every two weeks.

With unsanforized loomstate denim, the fabric is rigid and creases set in far faster. Additionally, due to the micro-hairs on the fabric (which are sometimes visible), the denim is more abrasive, which will allow you to get that very defined, high contrast look naturally, even with frequent washings.”

Should you ever be using a pre-shave oil? (Esquire)
“In the end, the choice of brush versus oil says more about style than substance. The truth is, though, as long as you have a good quality, moisturizing shave cream, a fresh blade, and exfoliate your face in the shower, you could probably skip both. Go ahead and buy some new razor blades with the savings.”

Raw Silk Explained (Die, Workwear!)
“Raw silk is simply silk that has not been chemically processed. You see, every silkworm extrudes two filaments when making its cocoon, and these fibers typically undergo a chemical processing to strip them of their bonding sericin. As a result of having their sericin left on, raw silk lacks the full luster and richness associated with the kinds of processed silk used for neckties. There also tends to be an unevenness in the yarns, as the two strands of filament are left bonded together, rather than being stripped and separated, which would yield an ultra-fine filament yarn that can be densely woven.”

The post Weekly Roundup | Underwear History, The Great Gatsby, Denim Lore, Pre-Shave Oil, Raw Silk appeared first on Bespoke Man.

Shoes are always the worst-hit in my wardrobe during the rainy season. I commute and walk to the office so contact with water is inevitable. When shoes are exposed to water for a long period of time it is eventually absorbed by the leather even though I’ve applied waterproofing sprays and substances such as wax and dubbin. I have been looking for a solution to help me address this problem and it is in the form of galoshes; specifically SWIMS galoshes.

SWIMS galoshes were designed in Oslo, Norway, a city that experiences 113 rain-days per year. As with many products coming out of Scandinavia, SWIMS galoshes deliver in all aspects: design, construction, and functionality. They are easy to slip on and off yet the inner lining holds on to shoes and enhances the shine. It grips wet surfaces so you don’t accidentally slip while walking; something that happens quite often when using leather-soled shoes. Its heels absorb shock and the rubber is waterproof. It comes in four sizes and can accommodate a wide variety of classic shoe styles.

It sounds good and all but an accessory such as this is not meant to provide total protection. SWIMS galoshes are great during periods of light to moderate rain. During a downpour it won’t work well because the water will probably be a few inches deep. And obviously it will not be effective at all in a flooded area. Much better to just stay put than risk ruining your shoes.

SWIMS galoshes come in a variety of colors but retailers in the Philippines only carry black, brown and blue. I chose blue because it will work with both black and brown shoes. It comes with a pouch so you can put them in your bag and bring them out whenever the need arises. I got mine when they went on sale for Php 2,770 as I would have never paid full price for them.

SWIMS Galoshes are available at Res Toe Run.

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A while back I wrote about O’Mast which is a documentary on Neapolitan tailoring. This time around Gianluca Migliarotti is back with a short film on Italy’s largest mill: Vitale Barberis Canonico. Like O’Mast, the film is shot beautifully with closeups on the materials and machines that operate. The full 15-minute feature is now available for everyone’s viewing pleasure. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.

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A Debt We Owe (A Suitable Wardrobe)
“Flusser is much more than just a haberdasher; he is an educator as well as a booster for the entire upper-end of the menswear luxury market. In the eighties, through his shops, his writings, and his now legendary wardrobe work on the movie Wall Street, he almost single-handedly created a menswear renaissance of the type that had not been seen since the 1930’s. Going far beyond merely creating an interest in his own brand, he turned men on to similar artisans the world over. If that weren’t enough, he can also take a great deal of credit for a gigantic spillover effect: once he educated men to dress a certain way, they started coordinating the rest of their lives to match. Fountain pens, good watches, fine cigars, food, wine, furniture, houses, etc. I remember the seventies. Trust me, there really was a thing called a pre-Flusser world, and it wasn’t pretty. I remember having to travel to New York just to buy an all-cotton dress shirt. Now it is true that Ralph Lauren played a significant role in this renaissance, but believe it or not, in menswear his was actually a slightly watered-down contribution. A Johnny Walker Red on the rocks, say. Flusser was the Laphroaig 18 year-old, a single-malt scotch straight from the bottle.”

Going Bespoke (Ivory Tower Style)
“Bespoke clothing is like hiring a personal chef. Although your dinner is made just for you, a chef tends to specialize in a certain type of cuisine. He may be talented and versatile. But even though he knows how to use a knife and stove and can look up a recipe on the Internet, it doesn’t make much sense to ask Mario Batali for Kung Pao Chicken. The fact that it’s custom-made for you doesn’t mean that you can or should ask whatever you want of a particular chef.”

John Lobb Bespoke in Paris (High-Toned)
“Highly qualified craftsmen are working in a beautiful atelier located in the middle of Paris with high ceilings, wooden floors and excellent natural light. Each pair requires an average of 50 hours of work by using traditional shoemaking techniques. John Lobb Bespoke service is unique, a subtle balance between the timeless elegance and fantastic comfort.”

HERZ shop visit (Carryology)
“Herz is a small Japanese (Shibuya district of Tokyo) based leather craftsman workshop, which started in 1973.  A company founded on handmaking non-mass produced, made-to-order leather bags and accessories.”

The post Weekly Roundup | Gieves & Hawkes, Alan Flusser, Going Bespoke, John Lobb Bespoke in Paris, HERZ Shop Visit appeared first on Bespoke Man.

Summer is in full swing and with it comes the searing temperatures that make men dress sloppy. The heat should not be used as an excuse to dress down. Rather, it is important to dress smart by wearing clothes that are lightweight and allow your body to breathe. However, this is not about polo shirts and chinos. This about choosing to skip the belt and socks because it works so well with polo shirts and chinos. Eschewing the belt gives one that rakish look; just make sure your trousers fit well. Going sockless is highly debatable in a country that prides itself on hygiene but you should anyway. It feels somewhat liberating to lose the belt and let your ankles breathe and summer is the perfect time to do just that.

Polo shirt by GANT. Chinos by GAP. Loafers by Gibi. Watch by Orient.

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Shelve the Seersucker: Make Way for Chambray (Wall Street Journal)
“Chambray softens over time, which means your new suit could theoretically become as comfortable as your old jeans. “It flows naturally as you move,” said Giorgio Armani, by email. “I particularly like it because, while it is as rough and resistant as denim, it’s also light and fresh to the touch.”

That freshness makes the chambray suit an ideal option as the weather warms up. But with its suggestion of the “Canadian tuxedo” (the term for a denim jacket paired with jeans), head-to-toe chambray may require a mental leap.”

The OCBD Shirt Series, Part VI: Our Recommendations (Put This On)
“After reviewing so many companies, we thought it’d be useful to say which we recommend the most. Obviously much depends on your taste, build, and budget. The great thing about having such a varied market, however, is that there’s almost something for everyone.”

Tasseled Loafers (Mr. Porter)
“Fancy but never frivolous, fun but still formal: tasselled loafers have been a pleasingly hybrid component of the male wardrobe since they first appeared in the mid-20th century. Although they were originally associated with preppy East Coast style, the tension between the stalwart quality of a man’s shoe and the jaunty nature of the tassel lends them a faintly roguish air. There’s something about tasselled loafers that says, I’m secure enough in my confidence and judgment to adorn my feet with decorations that serve no practical purpose whatsoever. With summer approaching, we can’t wait to wear them without socks, with everything from a lounge suit to shorts and a polo shirt.”

Five Ways To Wear: Navy Blazers (Mr. Porter)
“Why start with the navy blazer? Put simply, it is one of the most versatile garments that a man can own. It occupies a happy medium on the scale of formality, and can be dressed up with a crisp white shirt and tie, or dressed down just as easily with denim. Navy blue, meanwhile, goes with everything, softening the vibrancy of pattern and print, providing a backdrop for bold colour, or adding contrast to muted shades. Finally, a well-cut blazer, such as the two-button Richard James one seen in our video, will streamline and elongate the torso, flattering any figure.

Colour, fit and formality: the three ingredients that make up the blue blazer’s formula for timeless, versatile style. Watch the video above and read on to see five very different ways to put it into practice.”

The post Weekly Roundup | Deluxe Toothpastes, Chambray Suits, Oxford Shirts, Tassel Loafers, Navy Blazers appeared first on Bespoke Man.

The cream’s consistency is the first thing you will notice. Others that I have used are thick and somewhat hard such as Acca Kappa’s Almond Shaving Cream. Others are light and soft such as eShave’s Shave Cream. I like Gentlemen’s Tonic Traditional Shave Cream because the cream’s consistency is thick but soft. It is easy to turn into a rich and creamy lather by slowly adding water. And even when you think you’ve put too much water the lather is still quite good.

One of the most important things I look for in a shaving cream is the amount of cushion it provides between the skin and the blades. Too much cushion and you will not get a close shave. Too little would result in getting razor burns. Gentleman’s Tonic Traditional Shave Cream provides a close shave yet has enough cushion to prevent razor burns. The blades glide smoothly and I did not get any irritation while using it. The cream leaves the skin healthy and moisturized.

I got my jar from Gentleman’s Tonic in Hong Kong. It is also available through their online store and through Amazon.

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