A Taste for Travel

Guatemala coffee...for a great cause

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Fri, 25 Nov 2011 14:55:00 +0000

Organic coffee makes a fab spa treatment

If you're in Toronto and love a great cup of coffee, then it's worth ordering authentic Guatemalan coffee from my pal, Ken McGuffin who, in addition to his mega media relations job at the Rotman School of Management has also managed to build a school in the highlands of Guatemala. You can read about his school-building activities in his Guatemala School Project blog or follow him on Twitter @schoolproject.

Mayan girl near Coban

About the coffee. It’s $10 for a 300 g bag and comes in a medium roast or a dark roast and in beans or ground. Café Justicia is Fair Trade, shade-grown, organic coffee produced on the volcanic slopes surrounding Lake Atiltán in the Guatemalan highlands. The coffee is produced by members of the Campesino Committee of the Highlands (CCDA), an organization founded in 1982 and mandated to peacefully defend the rights of workers on large coffee, sugar and cotton plantations in Guatemala; recover lands stolen from the Mayan communities over the past century; promote organic and traditional Mayan agriculture, and protect the cultural rights of Guatemala's Mayan majority.

A coffee cooperative near La Campa, Honduras

A few years ago, I completed a month-long community development assignment with the Canadian Executive Service Organization (CESO) in La Campa, Honduras ( 3 bone-rattling hours from Copan) and saw first-hand what an amazing difference even a little international support can mean to a community. If you're travelling to Honduras, check out the Visit La Campa tourism project page and plan a visit to the coffee plantation, go horseback riding or make some Lenca pottery.

Ken also sells weavings from Asociación Maya de Desarrollo in Solola, Guatemala. Catch up with him at:

7^th Annual Fair Trade Holiday Sale for Guatemala

Thursday, December 8, 2011

10am to 7:00 pm

Fleck Atrium (Ground Floor)

Rotman School of Management

University of Toronto

105 St. George Street (south of Bloor, across from Innis College)

Study Spanish in Antigua, Guatemala

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Tue, 22 Nov 2011 21:14:00 +0000

Shop for Mayan weavings in between studies in Antigua

It was after midnight when the plane touched down in Guatemala City. The streets were clear of traffic and the moon had risen high above the jacaranda trees silhouetting Pacaya volcano, with its molten lava spilling out the cone. A short winding ride later, I neared my hotel in Antigua. The streets were empty, the wrought-iron gates of the colonial homes locked up tight and the air chill as the driver jumped out and rang the buzzer. And rang and rang and rang. The sleepy owner finally woke up and led me past a lantern-lit courtyard to my room. It was the doorman’s first day and he was a sound sleeper.

My plan was to take a crash course in Spanish. That might seem crazy since I'm married to a Guatemalan but my ad-hoc home schooling has resulted in huge gaps in vocabulary. I can talk about kitchen ingredients and family stuff but if the conversation veers into religion or business I'm lost. I just don't have enough words to work with. Often, I just stay silent, nodding demurely and leading people to think I'm shy -- which is the opposite of the truth.

View from the rooftop of my hotel in Antigua

If you want to learn Spanish, Guatemala is one of the world’s leading locations. Antigua boasts over 30 language schools while Quetzaltenango and Panajachel have emerged as new alternatives. I chose Antigua because it was 25 minutes away from family in the capital, and tuition at Probigua was only $140 a week, plus a book donation, for 20 hours of one-on-one personal instruction. It wasn’t the cheapest, but I liked that it a non-profit institution that provides mobile libraries for children in rural villages where there is no access to books. Books had been such an important part of my life growing up, I think everyone should have the opportunity to read.

I met my teacher, Lucrecia, and she assessed my level of Spanish as intermediate and adjusted the training plan.

"I’ve been teaching here for six years" she said "and, after one week, if you work hard, you will get to here."

She pointed to the Future tense in my workbook. "But, if not, you ll get to here". The Past Preterite. Not one to live in the past, I vowed to diligently complete my homework. The lessons began that day. Soon my brain was going fuzzy.

"Only one more hour to go until la pausa or coffee break" she encouraged. I persevered and was rewarded with strong coffee and a bun from a woven basket. Coffee was served in an olla, a large earthenware urn. It was ladled into each student’s mug, the delicious scent of coffee with a hint of cinnamon and cloves wafting up and warming your face and hands.

Exploring the shrines in the churches of Antigua

I used the coffee break to scout the premises. There were 20 pairs of students and teachers, seated at individual wooden tables, within an outdoor courtyard. Stone steps led to a garden patio shaded under pink bougainvillea. The break ended and another hour and a half of lessons began. By now my teacher was puzzled.

“Why do you speak Spanish with a Guatemalan accent?” she asked her eyebrows raised in curiosity.

“Mi esposo,” I shrugged.

The disclosure was like opening Pandora’s Box. Once she discovered my partner was from Guatemala she couldn’t resist steering our conversations back to my family life.

“Where does his family live? Did you meet here? What kind of job does he have? What kind of food do you eat? How does he compare to Canadian men – which is more macho?”

Just when I was sure I couldn’t possibly speak one more word in Spanish, a bell sounded and we were done for the day. Just in time. My teacher now knew more about my personal life than my mother did.

But I had enjoyed talking Spanish with a stranger and vowed to take more lessons in the future.


Posada La Merced is a bargain stay

If You Go

Where to Stay: I stayed at Posada La Merced, a nearby hotel managed by an expatriate Kiwi, Gail Rogers, with 26 clean rooms, two garden courtyards, a communal kitchen and my very own desk. I loved the rooftop patio where you can see the whole town, the spires of crumbling churches punctuating the low relief of the short squat stucco buildings. I stayed in a room on the back patio ($44).

Around the corner is Hotel Casa Cristina where the best rooms (#11 and #12) come with a view of the volcano and cost just $35 a night in low season. Long stay discounts are available.

What to See: At the north end of Antigua is La Merced church, a confection of golden yellow stucco and glossy white trim, built in 1552. Inside is a 4 ton statue of the Black Christ which, during Holy Week, gets carried aloft by 80 men in a procession that moves slowly through the streets.

Where to Study: I chose PROBIGUA , a not-for-profit language school and library. In addition to classes, the school offers plenty of extra activities from salsa dancing classes, cooking lessons, movies and excursions to coffee plantations. 4 hours of individual classes daily is $140 USD and group classes are $110 plus a book donation. You can study up to 7 hours a day if you're super keen. Home stay options are available.
Tours and Transportation: Adrenalina Tours offers shuttles from the airport direct to your hotel, from Tikal and other points in Guatemala and they've been doing business in Guatemala since 1987.

5 unforgettable experiences during Day of the Dead in Guatemala

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Wed, 19 Oct 2011 21:24:00 +0000

1) Explore a Kite Festival: Guatemalans believe the barrier between the realms of the living and the dead is at its most porous on Day of the Dead (Día de los Muertos) and the All Saints Day (Día de los Santos), so it’s an auspicious time to communicate with family ancestors by attaching messages to barriletes (kites) and letting the wind carry the messages up to the heavens. The best places to see these ceremonial kites are the barriletes fiestas held on November 1st in the central highlands near Santiago Sacatepéquez and Sumpango.

2) Eat a Special Breakfast: Day of the Dead isn’t just a spiritual tradition for barrileteros, it’s also an opportunity for Guatemalans to eat special foods. A breakfast favourite is Dulce de ayote. Made of chilacayote, a long-necked squash chopped into pieces with the skin, pulp and seeds intact, it’s steamed in rapadura, pure sugar cane juice and generously spiced with cloves and cinnamon. Lime leaves and orange peel keeps it from becoming too sweet while molasses gives it a rich mahogany colour.

Order blue corn tortillas, fresh off the comal, to take home.

3) Sample Fiambre: The time, cost and effort of preparing the more than 100 ingredients that go into fiambre elevates this cold meat and vegetable salad to an exalted position in Guatemalan culture. Just mentioning fiambre is enough to make a grown man swoon with desire.

Score an invitation to someone's home or go to Lo-Mix in Antigua for fiambre

4) Join the Party: Eat street food, drink venado white rum, fly a small kite of your own to communicate with your ancestors or join a street procession.

Conquistadores in Barcenas, Guatemala

A colourful tomb in San Vicente, Guatemala

5) Visit a Cemetery: A week before Day of the Dead, family tombs are scrubbed, cleaned and repainted -- often a beautiful bright blue. On Day of the Dead, families make paper garlands and purchase wreaths of white and red chrysanthemums to place on the tombs of departed family members. They spend the day at the graveyard and processions, prayers, special masses and of course food are all part of the tradition.

Most of my Day of the Dead festivities revolve around food, but this year I'm making Platanos en Mole ( plantain in a rich chocolate/spice sauce) a dish usually served during Holy Week because I'm testing recipes for my upcoming book. So I'm hoping to score some fiambre from a generous friend!

Cold springs, hot times at Pasabien, Guatemala

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Thu, 08 Sep 2011 20:15:00 +0000

View near San Vicente, Zacapa

Ever since I first heard the song Soy de Zacapa I vowed to someday see the natural swimming balnearios (baths) at Pasabien. This spring I finally got my chance. The rest of the family had left for Guatemala City, Mama Tayo thought 35C too cold to swim and Papa Challo was sick, so we headed out with the boys, crossing the San Vicente River and skipping past the village of Huite.

“Huitecos are known for their wit and intelligence,” said Javier, who enjoyed providing a running commentary about the people and places we passed while driving.

Based on my recollection of the one guy from Huite I’d met, I had my doubts. The man had taped a .25 coin to his shoe to make sure he had money for a phone call when he travelled from Winnipeg to Toronto. It wasn’t as though he was crossing the Serengeti--it was a 2 hour direct flight.

The highway weaving through the lowlands belied its poverty. A local government official had funnelled money into capital projects such as highways and sanitation systems so a fully-paved asphalt ribbon cut incongruously past rows of ramshackle homes. We paused at Valle Escondido waterslide park, surrounded by a high security fence. Signs warned no armas – handguns allowed. Just in case you were thinking of tucking a pistol in your Speedo.

No swimming with your gun at Valle Escondido

“Do you want to go and check it out?” asked Javier.

“Um, no thanks,” I answered, hoping for a quiet day in the country.
We then crossed a highway which traced the route of Guatemala’s former national railway. Built between 1877 and 1908 and then taken over by United Fruit and abandoned in the 1950’s, it once connected Guatemala City to Puerto Barrios, the steam-powered locomotives feeding the economic powerhouse of trade in fruit, coffee and vegetables. Today, all that remained of the mightiest railway line in Central America was a few tracks and the fascinating, but often overlooked Museo de Ferrocarril or Railroad Museum, in Guatemala City.
Beyond Santa Cruz's busy commercial area, with its gas stations and cowboys, we continued along a small winding road, past vendors selling pineapples and quesadilla, the crumbly cheese cake so beloved in Zacapa.

Handy tables and steps lead to the water

At Balneario Pasabien, we parked beside some comedors local food stands. The place was completely deserted. We were the only car in the parking lot. Although just minutes from the highway, Pasabien was an oasis of tranquility. The river itself was wild, with tumbling and churning cascades of white water at its northern end where it spilled from its source in the Sierra de las Minas Mountains, into a natural rock pool.

Jump right in

The first pool of calm water was surrounded by large smooth boulders, perfect for diving from. The river then made another series of drops, each creating mini-waterfalls which fed a string of peaceful pools. Each pool was surrounded by stones of different sizes and colours. We hurried to get changed and I was still pulling up my bathing suit when I heard Javier and the boys hooting and shrieking. From the sounds of it, the water was icy cold.

I ran to the river’s edge and jumped in up to my ankles, ready to paddle out to the middle of the pool where they were. I could feel the current tugging lightly on my calves.

“Fresh from the mountains,” shouted Javier who was thrashing about determined to show off his fortitude.

“No wonder the place is so empty,” I hollered back.

Javier looked more like an otter than a person - diving, ducking under the waterfall and sliding down the rocks.

“You should see it during Semana Santa (Easter),” he said coming up for air. “The water is as warm as a bathtub and packed with people.”

Peace and quiet was fine with me. I took a breath and dived in, falling in love with Guatemala all over again.

Want to listen to the waterfall? Watch the video:

If You Go:
Official Guatemala Tourism website: www.visitguatemala.com
Where to stay: In Santa Cruz, at km 126 on Ruta al Atlantico is Hotel Pasabien

A Maritime writers retreat and a labyrinth

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Thu, 21 Jul 2011 20:42:00 +0000

Looking at the circular shape of the labyrinth on the lawn at the Tatamagouche Centre, I'm hoping my writing does more than go around in circles while I’m here. I’m in Tatamagoughe, on the eastern shore of Nova Scotia. at an independent writers retreat.

Tatamagouche is an educational and spiritual centre operated by the United Church of Canada. It offers a place of learning, creativity and renewal and is open to lay people of all denominations and faiths. I was lucky enough to get a bursary to attend its writers retreat.

One of the highlights of the facility, in addition to its 15 acres overlooking Tatamagouche Bay, is a large labyrinth in front of the main building. Modeled on Chartres Cathedral in France, the Tatamagouche labyrinth has eleven concentric circles around a six-petal centre, called the “Flower of Aphrodite.” It is a sacred design used as a tool for meditation and spiritual journey.

Historic Stevens House is my temporary home

It's been a journey for me to get here. Nova Scotia is a long way from Toronto and an even longer distance from Guatemala, where I was just a few weeks ago. But there is a close connection between the two. Among its many programs, Tatamagoughe offers Breaking the Silence, a Maritime solidarity network supporting the efforts of Guatemalans struggling for political, social, economic and environmental justice. They do advocacy and lobbying, organize delegations, send interns and human rights accompaniers and promote fairly-traded products such as coffee and crafts. And my book is set in Guatemala. Learn about my connection and get some travel tips in How to Travel Safely in Guatemala.

Tatamagouche's retreats are intended to provide rest, renewals and spiritual deepening to equip people to better engage in service and transformation in the world. No cell phone service and no wireless signal in my cottage, the historic Stevens House. The 150 year old property overlooks the fork of two rivers and is surrounded by huge red oak and white birch trees. I pass an apple orchard and ancient black locust trees on my way to the dining hall.

Blue Sea beach at Malagash

When not writing, I can hike a portion of the Trans Canada, called the Butter Trail (named after the area's creamery industry), or swim in the warm salty waters of Blue Sea Beach, where marsh grass and gentle waves lap the shore. It's so meditative I may not even need to walk the labyrinth.

Are freebies out of control?

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Sun, 29 May 2011 21:36:00 +0000

Spread the word and you might stay free

Freebies, swag, discounts, promos or comps, no matter what you call it, free stuff is a fact of life in the world of PR. But recently I've started to wonder if it's all gotten a bit out of control. And I've even started to feel sorry for hotel PR reps.

It all began when I read the Smart Cookie column in the May 24 issue of the Globe and Mail. Angela Self recommends in Travel Deals: ask and you shall receive that readers looking to save money on their next vacation should "Contact the PR representative listed on the location's tourism site...This person is usually listed under the About Us or Media tab." She goes on to say that "If you have a Facebook or Twitter account or even a blog, then you're part of the social media ...The chance you'll post a positive review to your network is incentive for the PR people to make you happy on your vacation."

Really?

I wondered as I read the list of VIP experiences, upgrades and deals--all free for the taking. I was tempted to ask about U.S. Federal Trade Commission disclosure rules governing endorsements, testimonials, advertisements, and bloggers. See the lively discussion on Edward Hasbrouk's blog The Practical Nomad on how disclosure rules on 'material connections' or free products can apply to those living outside the U.S.

Then, I got followed on Twitter by Project Priceless, a blog with the stated goal "to get Brian and Jordan married in the next year, as free-of-charge as possible. The method: the happy couple will borrow, trade, and accept donations of elements (stuff, services, etc) for the wedding. Everyone who contributes to the occasion gets a shout-out, and any businesses or artisans who contribute get big shout-outs."  They promise to share their positive sponsorship experiences with the media, when possible. I suppose that's why they followed me.

I was a bit puzzled. With only 200 Twitter followers, exactly how much buzz could they be generating?

I checked in with a few PR people I know to find out what sort of criteria they use when screening requests for promotional or media rates. When it came to print, it was easy. Circulation and readership figures, advertising rates, niche, demographics, national or regional coverage and more. Online and social media was less clear. Alexa or Google Rank? Sometimes. Number of followers or subscribers? Yes, but no-one could pinpoint a minimum number. Klout Score? Few had heard of it.

If all this is true, then PR reps should be prepared for a deluge of requests from those willing to "spread the word." As for me? I didn't have time to email anyone about disclosure rules. I was too busy chasing down my own request for a freebie. And building a blog for my kids.

Career advice at a conference in Bermuda

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Thu, 21 Apr 2011 12:07:00 +0000

When I first started travel writing, many people told me the secret to success was to specialize. Pick a subject -- golf, family travel, spa or even a country -- and write about it. And only it. You'll build your brand, increase awareness of your writing and grow your business. The strategy has worked well for travel writing friends like Carol Perehudoff (spas) and Sherel Purcell ( golf).

I tried to do it. I really did. I wrote about cuisine and outdoor adventure - a lot. But I also wrote about NASCAR, sex museums, spas, spirituality and hotels for dogs. Basically whatever caught my fancy.

Fairmont Southampton hosted a guided walk of Horseshoe Bay

But as I walked Bermuda's beautiful Horseshoe Bay during the recent Caribbean Conference on Sustainable Tourism Development, I began to wonder if I had made a bad career choice.Maybe I should have specialized in the Caribbean!

Conference delegates in St. George, UNESCO World Heritage Site

After all, the study tours which involved walking on pink beaches and exploring St. George, a UNESCO World Heritage Site surrounded by emerald green waters, were a real treat. Especially in the winter. It's not as though I've never written about the Caribbean. I've written stories on the French Caribbean Rum Trail and Island Time in Jamaica. But a few stories does not a specialty make.

Researching the pub scene in Hamilton with colleagues

By the time the conference neared to a close, I had convinced myself that it was time to specialize. Dinner mates at the conference agreed. The Caribbean should be my new focus.

Fairmont Southamption in Bermuda

No sooner had I made that decision, I got an assignment to write about the polar bear migration in northern Manitoba -- about as far away from the Caribbean as you can get. The last time I'd been to Hudson Bay, I'd swam with wild beluga whales, about 5,000 of them, for several magazines. But I hadn't seen any polar bears.

I watched and then swam with wild belugas in Hudson Bay Credit: Sea North

As I got to thinking about the aurora borealis, walking the tundra and tucking into some northern cuisine, it didn't take long before I was making plans to head north.

Is it a good idea to specialize? For me, that decision will have to wait.

Inside the NYC Pitch & Shop Conference 2011

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Sat, 26 Mar 2011 20:55:00 +0000

Got a book to sell? This is the place to go. Held in the Ripley Grier Studios on the 16th floor of 520 Eighth Avenue in Midtown New York, Algonkian NYC Pitch & Shop is a workshop for writers who want to get their books published. It's a 4-day event which involves developing a synopsis, honing it with your workshop leader (and 15 writers) and then pitching it to an editor. If they like what they hear, they'll request a copy of your manuscript. Here's what I learned:

Soak up the excitement. You'll be rubbing shoulders with aspiring actors auditioning for Broadway shows, kids in tutus and sixty other writers. Get ready for an electric atmosphere charged with nervous energy and use it to fire your pitch.
Algonkian doesn't attempt to create a "feel-good' atmosphere. Expect criticism and use it to your advantage
Lessons begin before you arrive. Pre-conference assignments revealed problems in my book - structure, conflict/complications and characters-- I didn't even know existed.
Don't believe the website. Bring your computer. You'll need it to hone your pitch - over and over and over again
Be happy if you're told -- like I was -- that your book isn't literary. These editors are looking for books with commercial potential. Market-friendly is good.
If you're looking for an agent, you won't find one here. The focus is on editors. The best agent tip I got came from Single Gal in the City, the lovely and talented Melissa Braverman who referred me to Publishers MarketPlace, which for $20 a month lists all the best deals plus the agents who finessed them.
Stay positive - even if your name isn't picked the first or second time.
Get inspired. You'll be surrounded by talented people. I enjoyed meeting the quirky and fabulous Tanya Eby aka Blunder Woman, published novelist Dahlma Llanos-Figueroa ( Daughters of the Stone) and talented NASCAR cutie Raygan Swan. I hope we meet again on the shelves at the bookstores if not sooner.
Expect surprises. I won the book draw and learned a lot from Roberta Gately (LIPSTICK IN AFGHANISTAN) and her publicist, the irrepressible Susan Schwartzman. Her message? Hiring your own publicist is a must.
Forget about shopping. I know it's NYC but between fixing your pitch and drinking at Cooper's Tavern you won't have time to score many deals - although I did manage to hit Macy's dress sale, take a NYC culinary tour of Little Italy and try on 100 bathing suits. In that order.
Don't be shy. You'll have to pitch your book in front of 15 people. Think American Idol - manuscript style.
Never ever compare your book to Eat, Pray, Love. Just don't.
I loved our workshop leader Susan Breen (The Fiction Class) - patient, tough, committed and kind, she even managed to keep laughing at my jokes even though she'd heard them a dozen times by the time my pitches were done.

Stay nearby. I chose the art deco style Hotel New Yorker. It's a 5 minute walk to the studios and fortuitiously home to the above-noted Cooper's Tavern. Free wi-fi was a bonus.

What a blast! Now the real work begins. Getting my manuscript ready to send out. Three out of the four editors requested copies - now the pressure's on.

How to travel safely in Guatemala - 16 expert tips

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Tue, 22 Feb 2011 14:13:00 +0000

"Is it safe to travel in Guatemala?" is a question I get asked a lot. Although my Guatemalan mother-in-law gives me lots of advice --such as keep your money in your shoe--I thought it would be worthwhile to ask a pro for some travel tips. So during the recent Central America Travel Market , held in Antigua, Guatemala in 2010 I met with a security expert from the Guatemala Tourism Board (INGUAT). His tips are handy for travel in any country. Here's what I learned:

Day of the Dead celebrations in Sumpango

Crime levels increase prior to and during holiday periods so if you're traveling, be extra vigilant,
Don't lose sight of your luggage or other valuables, especially in crowded places,
Reduce your quantity of luggage. Don't be like me. According to the security expert, my tangle of camera equipment, computer bag, suitcase, purse and daypack made me a prime target for thieves,
Use photocopies of documents and keep originals in a safe place,
Only carry the amount of cash you need for a day and store the remainder in the hotel's safety box,
Travel during the day and if using a vehicle, use main highways,
Don't stop on the highway to give rides to anyone. If you see an emergency call 1-500 0 2421-2810
Use only authorized taxis, private transport or the TransMetro rapid transit system. Avoid city buses as they are targets for gang extortion,
Choose shuttle vans for inter-city travel. (I've found Adrenalina Tours to be professional and reliable for inter-city travel),
Obtain medical insurance and keep the information handy,
Exchange currency only at banks and use ATMs within (not outside) a bank. Check your statements online regularly for fraudulent ATM transactions,
If you're hiking or visiting remote areas, remain on the trail and travel in groups,
Negotiate prices for tours and travel in advance. Ask for receipts for service to avoid misunderstandings. Contact INGUAT if you need assistance,
Avoid late-night partying. In Guatemala it is illegal to sell alcohol after 1:00 am so if you're out late you increase your chances of trouble.

INGUAT offers a Tourist Assistance Program

Keep personal information on your luggage tag to a minimum,
Check travel alerts and register at the U.S. Department of State and Foreign Affairs and International Trade Canada.

INGUAT is available to offer assistance to tourists and to assist with solving problems. They also coordinate security for tourist groups and can be contacted in case of emergency.

Oh, and how about my mother-in law's tip to keep my money in my shoe? Not a bad idea said INGUAT - assuming you can walk straight.

Mexico on $25 a day

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Mon, 07 Feb 2011 15:56:00 +0000

Restaurant at Osa Mariposa

The first time I went to Mexico it was on a budget of $5 a day. We slept on Mismaloya beach, caught our own fish and bought fruit from a street vendor. Now, a swanky hotel has taken over the beach and $5 just gets you a cold Coca Cola. It might be tempting to think that the days of a budget Mexico vacation are gone, but it's still possible to have a fabulous vacation for under $25 a day. Head south to Puerto Escondido and you''ll be rewarded with prices that are more 1980's that 2011. Here's how to do it:

Soft sand and big waves along Zicatela Beach

Shared bath at La Puna bungalows

Sleep: Thanks to the surfing crowd, there's plenty to choose from in the $5 to $10 a night range right along Zicatela beach. Try the dorms at Osa Mariposa, a hip spot in the Brisas de Zicatela area (100 pesos a night) or splurge on Hotel Divisadero where you'll get a swimming pool, TV, air conditioner, private bath and a communal kitchen for 2,000 pesos ($166 USD) a month or around $6 a night just steps to Zicatela beach. There are two beds so if you split the room, you're down to an unbelievable $3 a day. Cell phone 9541010077.

Food: Even the biggest appetite can be satisfied for 150 pesos ($12 USD) a day. Begin with breakfast at Dan's Cafe Deluxe ( 30 pesos) with unlimited coffee refills (15 pesos) , follow it with a gourmet lunch of tempura fish with a creamy cilantro sauce, rice/salad and flor de jamaica drink at Estrella Gourmet at 2a Poniente #307 for 50 pesos and finish the day at el Cafecito with the Menu del Dia where you can tuck into a veggie soup, chile rellenos and a drink for just 69 pesos.

Enjoy a fish dinner at Las Margaritas for around $8 USD

Watching the sunset is free but cocktails are 2 for 1

Entertainment: There are plenty of free activities going on, and you'll even have money left over for a couple of beer ( 10 pesos). Or splurge on 2 for 1 cocktails at Happy Hour, along the Zicatela Strip at sunset.

Grand total? 300 pesos or $25

Party like it's 1985!

12 sure-fire sources for stellar press trips

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Sun, 30 Jan 2011 22:36:00 +0000

TMAC's annual conference was held in Wales in 2010

"Where to next?"

If you're a travel writer, January is an important time of year. Travel conference schedules have been finalized and, although invitations or editorial assignments can come up any time, it's worth planning your schedule now so you don't miss key events. Or, get stuck going somewhere nasty. Whether you love 'em or hate 'em, press trips will likely be part of the process.

In his recent post Who would want to be a travel writer?, veteran freelance travel writer Mark Hodson notes that "when the recession first hit, it looked for a short while that the press trip might go the way of the fax machine...but now tourist boards and tour operators seem as keen as ever to organise press trips, anxious for coverage both in print and online."

Where can you find steller press trips? Here are some top spots:

1. Media Kitty: Sign up for a free membership to this chatty online information exchange that unites working travel journalists and PR professionals worldwide. Get story ideas, submit requests or browse the popular media trips board. Then get ready to compete for space on one of the many press trips listed.

2. Travelwriters.com Free membership in this online community of travel writers lets you pose questions, browse topics of interest, score assignments and consider press trips on offer. Sparse pickings of late but still work checking out.

3. Travel Media Association of Canada: Canada's national trade association representing qualified members of the travel media is holding its 2011 national conference in Ottawa, with exciting pre and post trips. Monthly Munch n' Mingle events and directory listings offer the opportunity to meet with industry pros.

4. Society of American Travel Writers: Qualify to join this prestigious organization and you'll be attending conferences ( and pre/post trips) in New Zealand 2011 and Indianapolis in 2012. Plus, you'll be listed in a Directory that's a go-to spot for PR and travel industry pros.

Switzerland for foodies

5. International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association: This network of journalists covering the hospitality industry offers an annual conference as well as ongoing opportunities for press to participate in Taste & Tour events in foodie destinations such as Missouri, Switzerland and California. Become a member and you'll sail to Alaska in 2010.

6. World Travel Market: The World Travel Market is the grand-daddy of travel industry events, drawing almost 48,000 industry professionals across four days from Nov. 7-10, 2011. Score an invitation to this conference and you'll meet with reps from over 150 countries - Angola to Uzbekistan.

7. Travel Classics Writers Conference: This event offers pre/ post conference trips ( for 2011 it's in Dublin and Vancouver) and includes presentations & workshops with top magazine editors, one-on-one consultations with 6-8 guest editors (not for the tongue-tied).

8. VEMEX: Presented by the European Travel Commission, the Visit Europe Media Exchange (VEMEX) is a one day forum for industry professionals and travel media. Held in three locations in North America - New York, Toronto and LA ( or south Florida), it's a whirlwind series of one-on-one appointments much like speed dating. Be ready to pitch your best story ideas to industry representatives at break-neck speed. If there's a match, you may be invited on a press visit. If not, at least you'll have a suitcase full of swag and plenty of story ideas.

9. GoMedia Canada Marketplace: Sponsored by the Canadian Tourism Commission, this is where Canada's provinces, territories and industry suppliers strut their stuff in a selection of first rate pre/post conference tours. This year's shindig will be held in Edmonton, Alberta.

10. Travel South Showcase: Held in Atlanta in February 2011 and Louisville Kentucky in 2012, this conference is focused mostly on tour operators and suppliers but still offers plenty of networking and city FAM tours for travel trade journalists looking for an excuse to visit Waffle House or enjoy some southern hospitality in the winter.*

11. Travel Media Showcase: This annual event, held in different U.S. cities each year, offers an opportunity for travel journalists and travel industry professionals to meet one-on-one, at a single location. A wide range of often unique Pre/Post tours (Oklahoma City in 2011) can make it worth braving the gruelling appointment schedule.

12. Adventure Travel World Summit: Strap on your mountaineering gear for this conference focused on outdoor adventure, extreme sports and professional development. To be held in Chiapas Mexico in October 2011, it features top notch speakers, networking, marketplace appointments with suppliers and plenty of opportunity to explore the host destination.

13. Central America Travel Market: This annual conference profiles the countries of Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Guatemala, El Salvador, Panama and Honduras with a conference, business exhibition and several pre and post trips. In 2011, CATM will be held in Panama.

Anyone have any other sources or favourite conferences? Let me know and I'll add them to the list.

Note: Most conferences require qualification by way of clips, significant publication circulation and readership stats and more. Competition for invitations can be fierce and press trip disclosure rules apply.

The Ultimate Toolkit for Culinary Adventurers

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Wed, 29 Dec 2010 23:09:00 +0000

Always be prepared to enjoy a great meal

I never knew Bob Blumer, the superstar host of the Food Network's The Surreal Gourmet and I had much in common (except for my secret musings that he'd have made a good love match for my travel writing friend Wandering Carol ), until I found out that he often travels with a bottle of Tabasco hot sauce. It's on my packing list too.

For me, the best culinary adventures are all about discovery. Whether it’s a bottle of Waupoos apple cider from Prince Edward County, a spicy noodle dish at the night market in Kuala Lumpur or a luscious first-press olive oil in Spain -- a true food lover should always be prepared.

Here are the 10 must-have items I pack in my suitcase:

Portable salt & pepper shaker: Want to liven up some fresh market tomatoes or remove a red wine stain? These basic condiments can come to the rescue in many ways.
Utensils: A paring knife, a fork, knife and spoon set and a corkscrew/bottle opener are the absolute minimum utensils a food enthusiast needs. Unless you’ve mastered the art of opening Corona beer bottles with your teeth, you'll need something to open bottles of water, wine and beer in many parts of the world. I use a Swiss Army knife.
Portable immersion water heater – dual voltage: For making tea or coffee or even heating up soup in your room, these little heating elements will come in handy. If you don’t want to melt your hotel glassware, pack a stainless steel mug to do your boiling in.
Ziploc Bags: Whether you're stashing cheese or garlic sausage, you can't beat a sealable bag for worry-free (and non-stinky) transportation of your food souvenirs. If you have room for bubble wrap, use it to protect bottles of olive oil, vinegar or even wine you can't take in your carry-on luggage. If not, slide the bottle into the Ziploc bag and then into a shoe for extra protection.
Pretty tablecloth: Makes even the simplest meal look festive. Buy one as soon as you arrive and you can enjoy it during your travels and keep it as a souvenir. Disposable wet napkins are also a must-have for food safety and hygiene.
Pair of travel wine glasses (made of resin and foldable): You'll always be welcome at an impromptu party if you have your own wine glass. Plus, it makes even a wine of modest quality taste better.
Digital camera with food mode setting (Check out Panasonic Lumix): Save your memories and create travel souvenirs with a camera equipped with a mode for taking food photos.
Pocket-size notebook: Jot down memorable meals and recipes that you come across during your travels. Before you leave home, fill it with a couple of your favourites. You never know when you'll be invited to cook up a specialty or want to swap recipes.
Small nylon shopping bag: Use it for stuffing with goodies from a farmers' market or for bragging rights if it's from a swanky foreign shop.
Tiny bottles of Tabasco hot sauce: Bob Blumer is right. Not every meal is a winner. So pack some hot sauce - it'll add some kick to even the dullest meal.

Travel Writer's Checklist: 10 tips for getting paid

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Fri, 17 Dec 2010 14:03:00 +0000

There was an interesting article "Begging for Your Pay" by freelance writer Elizabeth Dwoskin in the New York Times this week. Her point that freelance writers engage in a "delicate, disquieted dance" when trying to collect money is very true. It's especially relevant when it comes to travel writing as relationships with third parties (PR agencies, tourism boards, interview subjects) can make walking away even more difficult.

Paris or a paycheck?

Several years ago I got burned and it wasn't pretty. Scarlett Magazine asked if I could write about the challenges and rewards of doing business overseas. I flew to Paris (with the help of Air France), interviewed several female entrepreneurs, took photographs, researched Statistics Canada figures and even conscripted writing colleague and friend Carol Perehudoff to help me work through Christmas and file the story on time.

The editor's feedback was "fantastic" and they wanted another 1,500-word travel piece. It too, had a short deadline. I still hadn't been paid for the first one, but with a new assignment letter in hand, I went ahead anyway. Big mistake. The magazine folded. Not only did I never get paid the $2400, my expenses weren't reimbursed, I couldn't pay Carol and there was a long list of disappointed people - the women, the airline, the businesses.

Lessons learned?

If a gig sounds too good to be true, it probably is. A trip to Paris? I should have been more skeptical.
Be suspicious of start-up publications. Scarlett had been in operation for less than a year - a warning flag.
If the assignment is big, the deadline is short and the client is new, ask for a deposit
An enticing assignment letter is no guarantee of a paycheck
Cash shortages don't happen overnight. Use your intuition.
Staff changes mean instability. If your assigning editor disappears, proceed with caution
Get paid for assignment #1 before completing assignment #2
Check WritersWeekly.com - Whispers and Warnings before accepting new work. This Forum lists publications that haven't paid writers. You'd be surprised at the big names on the list.
Consider a collection agency if your invoices go unanswered
Don't let your heart rule your head ( See #1)

Anyone have experiences or tips to share?

Confessions of a food smuggler

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Tue, 14 Dec 2010 16:40:00 +0000

With the holidays coming up, I decided it was time to clean out my kitchen cupboards. What I found was a culinary snapshot of my year of travels. There was a tin of laver bread (seaweed) from Wales, a jar of smoked mussels from the Magdalen Islands, a chunk of rather scary-looking Cap Rond Jeune cheese from Quebec City and some still-fragrant nutmeg from Grenada.

Tempting spices from Rajastan India

Many people come home from their trips laden with exotic home decor or other souvenir items. Me, I carry home food and booze.

When I hit the streets in a foreign country, my itinerary always includes a stop at a local supermarket or street stall. Nothing is too obscure to consider. A jar of dried chiles, a ring of garlic sausage or a 10-pound jug of olive oil from Spain - they've all made it back to Canada.

Impossible to leave behind - rum from Martinique

As a result, I live in fear of the Canada Border Services Agency . Those teams of tail-wagging sniffer dogs make me break out in a cold sweat. While I haven't yet been thrown in jail for food smuggling, I know that I'm often just a tail-wag away from prosecution.

Some of my culinary scores - Salsa Huichol (Riviera Nayarit), Manchego cheese (Spain) and Ron de Zacapa (Guatemala) and Dijon mustard (France)- have even changed my life.

I managed to resist fresh rabbit at London's Borough Market

Sure, I could have bought most of these items at Pusateri's in Toronto, but that would have shut out the sensory experience of browsing foreign markets with their unique smells, free samples and enthusiastic vendors.

I don't stop at food items. Kitchen utensils and cooking pots also make it into my bag. I've got no regrets about the money I've spent on overweight bag fees. Every time I haul out my paella pan from Valencia I'm transported right back to the beach eating seafood paella and drinking sangria.

Learning to love mulled wine in Germany

So if you stop by my house this holiday season don't be surprised if you find me drinking gluhwein out of one of my mugs gathered from last year's tour of Germany's Christmas Markets. I'll be daydreaming of the lebkuchen I left behind.

Do butlers equal bliss?

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Wed, 01 Dec 2010 14:36:00 +0000

St. Regis Punta Mita

With a butler in a white suit standing by to do my every bidding, I can’t help feeling like the woman in the Philadelphia Cream Cheese TV commercial who has Albert the manservant at her beck and call.

I’m at the St. Regis Punta Mita, the Riviera Nayarit location of the ultra-exclusive luxury hotel chain, founded by NYC real estate tycoon John Jacob Astor IV. The hotel is renowned for its century-old St. Regis Butler Service, an ever-present, yet discreet service intended to fulfill every guests desire.

Except instead of enjoying my “slice of heaven” moment, I’m faintly annoyed. It's no fault of the butlers. The truth is that I have no assignments to give him. I run down the list of suggested services.

1. Run a bath? I don’t think so. Too awkward.

2. Unpacking service? Between my mini-bottle of whiskey (in case of insomnia) and my comfy Walmart gitch, my battered suitcase is as far as you can get from a luxury travel trunk.

3. Pressing? I've got no wrinkled ball gowns or strappy sandals that need polishing. Instead, I've got hiking boots covered with mud, a kettle for making tea and a sink plug for doing my own laundry.

I wasn’t the only one who didn’t know quite what to do with her butler.

“Maybe I’ll ask mine to undress me,” laughed one woman and fellow journalist.

I was more inclined to ask my butler to join me for breakfast than give him an errand.

Are butlers an anachronism? Is the art of travel is no longer about refinement and savoir-faire? Are the needs of guests changing? .

I'll soon have a chance to find out. Next month, I'll be staying at the St. Regis Mexico City. Located on the exclusive Paseo de la Reforma boulevard overlooking the Plaza of Diana, this swanky spot has been designed by the critically-acclaimed Yabu Pushelberg design firm and world-renowned architect Cesar Pelli, known for such iconic buildings such as the Petronas Towers in Malaysia.

The St, Regis Mexico City awaits

It seems that the St. Regis Mexico City is leading a transformation in the world of butlers. The hotel's butler service - traditionally the role of men - is now offered by a staff of 80 percent female butlers. A note from the Starwood's PR firm explains that female guests want "to be more discreet about personal things, and sometimes they simply want a woman’s opinion or feminine intuition about something".

Female advice and intuition? That sounds like something I can always use. Come to think of it I probably have some strappy sandals that need polishing too.

How to pack for 4 months?

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Sun, 10 Oct 2010 15:29:00 +0000

I just finished reading Hiking Boots to High Heels a post on Janice Waugh's Solo Traveler Blog where she does a great job of explaining how a fashionable woman can squeeze everything she needs for a two-week trip into one carry-on bag.

It makes a lot of sense. But so far, I've got two suitcases full to the brim for my upcoming trip to Guatemala. And more to go. How does a person pack for an extended trip? Especially if you're visiting a country where it can be freezing in the mountainous highlands by night and baking in the 40C desert by day?

Complicating things is that I scored an invitation to the Central America Travel Market, a conference that brings together tourism suppliers from Belize, Costa Rica, Honduras, El Salvador and Guatemala with travel journalists. So that means I need swanky clothes -- and more space in the suitcase -- for a quick trip to research eco-spas in Costa Rica.

What to leave behind? The half dozen boxes of non-gluten spagetti for a little five year old boy, a donated camera for a woman hoping to launch a wedding photography business, my cookbooks and reference books on Mayan cuisine? How about the tarot cards and a jug of insect repellent?

I've already ditched the high heels and the hiking boots. But the box set of 'Mad Men'? No way.

Travel news, bargains and deals

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Sat, 27 Feb 2010 15:34:00 +0000

R
If you're looking for travel news, bargains and deals for your next getaway, you can find my latest updates at my new column, Toronto Romantic Getaways on Examiner.com.

Here's some info on Examiner.com With 18.9 million monthly unique visitors in December 2009, Examiner.com is the fastest growing premium news site in North America. Serving 234 U.S. markets and 6 Canadian markets, Examiner.com attracts an affluent, well-educated demographic:

76% Ages 25-54
65% college-educated
44% earn $75k or more annually

Watch for my upcoming travels and columns on:

Niagara-on-the-Lake - deals, cycling, food, wine and more
London, England - 2012 Olympics, afteroon teas, luxury for less hotels
Wales - food, hiking and wine
New Brunswick - seafood and the Bay of Fundy
Mexico - best hotels for all budgets ( including $50!)
Niagara Falls - Romantic Getaways 101
Belize - eco-adventure and Mayan ruins
Guatemala - exotic romantic experiences
Germany - secret spas

I look forward to hearing from you at my new home at Examiner.com and my personal website at www.michelepeterson.com

Countylicious is just the beginning to Prince Edward County

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 13:08:00 +0000

The autumn celebration and fine dining promotion "County licious" which takes place between November 4 to 29, 2009 makes for a great introduction to the local culinary ingredients of Prince Edward County. At participating restaurants such as Harvest and East and Main Bistro ( Wellington), visitors and locals alike get to sample fine dining at wallet-friendly prices. At Harvest, Chef Michael Potters serves upscale country cuisine featuring locally-sourced fare such as artisanal goat cheese from Fifth Town in an heirloom beet salad and the perennially popular Aunt Bernice's Chicken Stew with tender, steamed buttermilk biscuits and savoury chicken jus or also popular, stuffed rabbit with polenta. Desserts are pumpkin creme brulee with carmelized county maple syrup or apple fritters from Waupoos in the county's scenic orchard county. For only $35 a person it's a standout, not-to-be-missed experience. Reserve early.

County-licious also offers an opportunity to sample local wines and ciders. You can pick up a copy of the winery map and plan out a journey or do as we did and stop at wineries along the Loyalist Trail . There's Sandbanks which offers tastings and art shows, Chadsey's located in a cluster of historic buildings overlooking Lake Ontario and Black Prince Winery without making a detour off Highway 33. Just off the main route in Hillier are picturesque Casa-Dea Estates Winery and Norman Hardie Winery known for its exceptional Pinot Noir.

Beyond wineries, in the late 1800's, the county's bay barley was reputed to be the best malting barley available and was shipped, along with hops, to breweries across North America. Prince Edward County prospered and the period became known as "The Barley Days." Today, it's possible to visit the Barley Days Brewery and sample beer on tap such as a Harvest Gold Pale Ale in honour of those boom times. Another worthwhile stop is the County Cider Company in Waupoos winery.

Icewine & Cycling at Niagara-on-the-Lake

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Wed, 22 Apr 2009 18:57:00 +0000

Think you don't like icewine? Don't be so sure. If you stay at the Brockamour Manor, you'll receive an invitation to visit Pillitteri Estates Winery and enjoy complimentary tastings of two award winning Icewines. Harvest of the Icewine grapes occurs when temperatures have reached -8*C or colder. When pressed,these hand picked, naturally frozen grapes yield a juice with an intense concentration of sugars, acids, flavours and aromas. My favourite is the Shiraz but it's produced in such small quaniities it's often not available. Next best, is a gorgeous Cabernet Franc icewine or Vidal. A bottle of one of these premium Pillitteri icewines can cost up to $60 or more, so that makes this free tasting even sweeter.

The Brockamour itelf is one of my favourite spots to overnight at Niagara-on-the Lake. It's located right on the Waterfront Trail cycling path and is an easy 30 km loop to the Floral Clock ( stop enroute at Peller Estates Winery for lunch) and within easy walking distance of the fun Irish Harp pub and Stone Grill restaurant but away from the summertime crowds and traffic. In the morning, you'll awaken to the sound of birds in the gardens.

The Brockamour celebrate its 200th anniversary in 2009, so ask Innkeepers Rick Jorgensen and Colleen Cone to tell you the tragic love story behind the inn's evocative name. If you're lucky, they may even have some of the commemorative postcards to share.

Go Paddling with Whales

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Mon, 06 Apr 2009 11:44:00 +0000

Sea Kayak Adventures has operated kayaking tours to the premier whale watching destinations of Loreto in Mexico and Vancouver Island in British Columbia since 1993. There’s no experience necessary on these fully guided trips. Explore the Inside Passage, a glacier-carved waterway between the northeast coast of Vancouver Island and the snow-capped mountains of mainland British Columbia or choose a luxurious lodge-based trip at God's Pocket Provincial Marine Park.

Get a special discount if you read my column at Fifty-five Plus Magazine by calling 1 800 616-1943

On the Trail of the Tudors

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Fri, 03 Apr 2009 22:55:00 +0000

Season 3 of The Tudors begins April 5, at 9 pm on Showtime.

If you were fascinated (or disgusted) by the scene of Jonathan Rhys Myers as Henry VIII devouring a swan, then you’re going to want to experience the atmosphere of the Tudor royal court first-hand. Head to Hampton Court Palace outside London to gain first-hand experience with culinary treasures from the Tudor kitchen. Just don’t try chowing down on one of the swans from the palace gardens.
Visit my food blog or read my Top 5 Picks of the Top Tudors spots in London.

A Taste of India – for less

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Mon, 23 Mar 2009 12:42:00 +0000

If you’ve ever dreamed of exploring the fragrant spice gardens of Kerala or the desert cuisine of Rajastan, then 2009 might be the year for you.

Although luxury culinary travel is lagging -- Viking Life’s trips created by the Culinary Institute of America are on hold for 2009 -- independent travelers have reason to celebrate.

If there was ever a year to score a deal on travel, this is it.

Take India Tourism’s “One Good Reason” campaign for example. The offer from India’s Jet Airways gets you two tickets -- from New York to the foodie gateways of Mumbai and Delhi -- for the price of one.

So if you don’t have your heart set on luxury travel, satisfying your culinary wanderlust could be a lot more affordable than you think.

More Travel Deals at Incredible India

Rum Makes a Comeback

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Mon, 23 Mar 2009 12:24:00 +0000

In a world of designer cocktails and flavor infused vodkas, a long neglected spirit is enjoying an unexpected renaissance. Rum, once considered best camouflaged with fruit juice and an umbrella pick, has drawn the attention of a growing number of aficionados who appreciate its subtle nuances and complexity. Most surprising, is the number of micro-distillers getting into the act.

“Rum from the Tropical Island of Tennessee” -- that’s the slogan for Pritchard’s Distillery who, in addition to their line of bourbons, are now producing Fine Rum, a Private Stock Rum and even a Peach Mango rum in their distillery near Kelso, south of Nashville, Tennessee.

But despite all the recent interest, the birthplace of premium rum is still considered to be the French Caribbean. If you can’t make it to the tropics, you can sample a selection of fine rums at the International Rum Festival to be held in Ybor City, Florida, from March 26 – 28, 2009.

Get More Info at International Rum Festival

Meet "The Godfather" at Tikal, Guatemala

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Tue, 27 Jan 2009 13:17:00 +0000

In North America, Francis Ford Coppola is best known as the director of the Godfather series and Apocalypse Now, but in Central America he is known as the owner of three luxury lodges. I recently headed to the jungle in Guatemala to check it out.
Upon arrival I discovered I would be in the same cabana as Charlize Theron stayed in -- overloooking Lake Peten. It was hard to believe that she bumped her way 45 minutes down the same potholed road as we did.

Although La Lancha doesn't really qualify as a budget place, for lovers of luxury it is a bargain at under $200 night. In Costa Rica, Belize or Mexico you'd pay double for such swanky digs. The food was worth a trip alone. Chef Ezekial hails from the aldea down the road and cooks up Kack-ik and Subanik dishes that are rarely found in most other parts of the country.

Cycling

noreply@blogger.com (Michele Peterson) — Wed, 23 Jul 2008 15:25:00 +0000

All aboard the Bike Train to explore Toronto : Travel : The Buffalo News