Best Flower's Care

BEGONIA

2012-08-20T08:32:00.004-07:00

BEGONIA

Name: Begonia was first introduced in Santo Domingo in 1690, botanist Charles Plyumero. Description of her did Linnaeus and named in honor of the old governor Michel begonias.

Description: The genus includes over 400 species, native to tropical and subtropical areas of America, Africa and Asia. Begonia - a perennial herb, often woody shrub with fleshy (succulent) or succulent stems and leaves. Stem erect or decumbent, herbaceous, fruity, with a strongly marked nodes. Number of internodes (10-12) corresponds to the number of leaves. The roots are well branched, individual species are formed tubers. Inflorescence - panicle complex with an ever growing lateral buds. In the axil of each leaf of the main stem, from the fifth and sixth, the inflorescence is formed, consisting of three - five male and female flowers. Apical (terminal) flower always male.

Begonia flowers are heterosexual, irregular (zygomorphic), with brightly colored perianth. Male flower consists of four rounded and elongated-oval petals and two sepals and two hulled, lightly colored bracts ovate. Female - four or five petals, calyx of three free sepals and two bracts. In tuberous begonia flowers are large (5-15 cm), the non-stop flowering - small (2-3 cm). Lower-celled ovary, pistil has three pairs of fused and helically twisted blades stigmas, the surface of which is covered with fine needle-like papillae. Fruit - a winged-celled capsule, cracks along the side seams. The seeds are very small, orange-yellow, with cells on the surface. Despite its small size, the mature seeds differentiated direct embryo without endosperm.

In ornamental horticulture generally use begonia always in bloom (V. semperflorens Link et Otto) and tuberous begonia (B. x tuberhybrida Voss). Recently, there are seeds of flower shops and more new varieties of begonias.

Landing: for planting is best to take the young weekly tubers 5-6 cm in diameter. They are round and the top slightly dented. Older tubers larger, flattened with foams outgrowths of old stems.

Before planting, remove them from the remains of the soil and carefully cut a lot of dried up roots. Young tubers are sometimes a little wrinkled, but they are quite suitable for planting. For decontamination and restoration of turgor they are immersed for one hour in a solution of acid potassium-manganese (0.05%) at room temperature.

Rearing generally begin in mid-March. They bloom in about 3 months. If a lot of tubers, they should be planted in boxes. The substrate is peat with the addition of chalk or hydrated lime at the rate of 50-70 g in a bucket of peat. Boxes filled with peat half, laid the tubers at a distance of 5-8 cm from each other and filled the gaps between them so that the tops above the surface, peat lightly compacted and moistened with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer. (1-1.5 g per 1 L). The first time the water or solution when watering should not fall on the center of the tuber. Boxes with tubers contain a bright spot in the 18-22'S. On sunny days place to shadow, which whiten glass in greenhouses. During the period of rearing spend 4.3 feed. First - 4-5 weeks after planting, the subsequent 2-3. It is advisable to alternate feeding with organic and mineral fertilizers. In early May, the boxes take out in warm greenhouses place to shadow and provide good ventilation. About three weeks before planting in the ground plants begin to harden. Planting in the ground, balcony boxes and containers hold until after the spring frosts.

Tuberous begonias are better developed at moderate temperatures and some humidity. Planted them at a distance of 20-25 cm, buried tubers 1.5-2 cm well to fertilization during flowering.

Cleaning: the first frosts are a signal to harvest the tubers in storage. Aerial parts are cut to 2-3 cm shears, digging shovel or a garden fork, without clearing the soil from the roots, tubers are placed in boxes and transferred to a warm ventilated area. About 2 weeks remove the remains of the shoots, which by this time are easily separated. The tubers are dried and stored in the basement at B-10 ° C and humidity of 80-85%. The intervals between tubers sleep peat and if necessary placed second layer of tubers.

Diseases and pests: the correct observance farming and growing conditions begonia weakly affected diseases and damaged by pests.

Reproduction: begonias are usually propagated by dividing the tubers, cuttings and seeds.

When dividing the young tubers first germinated. Sprouts them laid out in a warm room for moist peat. Once awake kidney tubers cut into 2-4 parts, sections powdered charcoal and sulfur. "Delenki" with slices of dried-grow as potatoes and whole, but start to do it in 2-3 weeks earlier, as several divisions inhibits plant growth.

When propagated by cuttings grow fallopian tubes begin in January at 20-22'S. About a month later cuttings break out and press lightly at the base. For summer flowering enough to leave on tuber with 2 germ. Damaged areas sprinkled powdered charcoal and sulfur. After a light drying cuttings planted in sand and peat land to a depth of 2-3 cm slices preferably charcoal powder with the addition of growth factors. Boxes with cuttings regularly moisturize shadow place and kept at a temperature of 20 "C. rooting usually occurs 20-30 days, after which the cuttings are planted in boxes with a mixture of leaf compost, peat and sand (2:1:1 or 3:2:1 ) at the distance of 8 cm from each other and put on a bright place. As the young begonias fed organic fertilizers. On permanent planted more often. Generally, they do not have time to form tubers suitable for winter storage, and cultivated as annuals. valuable varieties are grown in pots that the summer pinned to the ground. Plants in late August to make room and grow until November (the flowers are removed), and then cut off the stems and tubers in pots placed in winter storage.

The most effective method of propagation - the seed. Crops produced in late December - early January. Seedlings usually bloom in the beginning of the landing ground. The seeds are very small, 1 g to about 50,000, so they sow not closing up, in shallow bowls or boxes with a mixture of sifted leaf soil, peat and sand (2:1:1) if peat sour, add hydrated lime (50 - 100 g of a mixture in a bucket.) Ultrafine begonia seeds germinate well if the substrate is to pour it on the snow and scatter the seeds. When it melts it will pull a little seed in the substrate, and will be what we need. To disinfect the substrate moistened with a solution of manganese-acid potassium (0.1%). Crops under glass and contain up to the first pick, evenly moistened warm water (about 30'S) from the pallet. Seedlings appear in 12-14 days. Raise the first glass, and a few days removed completely. Diving under 2-3 real leaves. A month later, a second pick. Two weeks after the second pick, mullein begin to feed every 7-10 days with the addition of potassium nitrate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of infusion). In late April - early May, diving at 7-11 cm pots on the same instance. Begonias at any age safely tolerate transplant, but it is necessary to protect them very brittle leaves. Further care is the same as for plants grown from tubers. The effect of sowing date on flowering and seed production of begonias ...

Tuberous begonias - short-day plants. Instances, retardation or received from late planting, it is advisable to plant a flower bed and a separate mid-July for 3-4 weeks completely obscure the opaque material from about 18 to 9:00. This increases the size of the tubers in about 1.5-2. It is recommended to do with plants propagated by cuttings. Promotes maturation of tubers and remove flowers.

Use: begonias are used in flower beds, perennial borders and as pot plants. The popularity of these plants due to abundant and colorful blooms during the frost-free period. Combine well with many low annual flowering and ornamental foliage plants.

CALCEOLARIA

2012-08-20T08:29:00.005-07:00

CALCEOLARIA

Genus Calceolaria sometimes classified as Scrophulariaceae by some authors and comes from South America and covers according to different directories from 300 to 520 species. These flowers are 100-150 years ago were the favorite plants of Victorian England.

Calceolaria - herbaceous or shrub abundantly flowering plant that is grown in a culture room as annual or biennial. She conquers its peculiar shape bright two-lipped flowers, the upper lip is extremely small, barely noticeable, and the lower large, inflated, spherical. According to her similarity to the people they are called "shoes" or "purses". More common "booties" yellow and gold, but there are orange, red, brown or red. Often decorated with flowers, dots, spots, increasing the decorative effect. Simultaneously on a bush can flourish to 50 flowers. Blossoms usually in the spring and summer. But, thanks to the intervention of professionals flowering specimens can be purchased in stores and winter.

There are two groups of Calceolaria:

1) herbaceous biennials with large flowers of various colors;

2) shrubby perennials with smaller flowers.

Shrub Calceolaria good as potted plants to decorate balconies and room contents, use them well for growing beds. Herbaceous Calceolaria - beautiful flowering plants with larger flowers for the temporary detention room.

Widely cultivated as houseplants only hybrids Calceolaria, sometimes called hybrid Calceolaria. Saccate flowers of red, orange, yellow, pink and white with charming spots or specks. The height varies from 10 to 45 cm, depending on the species.

Plant Care

Location: indoors Calceolaria grow very difficult, it does not tolerate direct sunlight and heat. It should be kept in light or half-shaded and cool conditions at 14-16 ° C. At high temperatures (20-25 ° C) plant is aging rapidly and affected by pests. In the summer it is desirable to take half-shaded, sheltered from the cold winds of space on the balcony or in the garden. The plant must be protected from the elements. Calceolaria hibernates in a bright room at 8-12 ° C.

Watering during flowering Calceolaria watered regularly, avoiding stagnation of water. In winter, plants contain a moderate watering, not leading to coma drying ground is as much water is harmful to plants.

Humidity: In order to maintain the necessary humidity around the plant, the flower pot should be placed on a tray with gravel, half-filled with water. In no case don’t spray the leaves and flowers of the plant - leaves Calceolaria softly hairy and carry it away from water droplets.

Dressing: 1 Calceolaria fertilize every 10 days with a solution of mineral fertilizers. Feeding begins two weeks after planting in pots and continues to bloom.

Formation bushes: form bushes Calceolaria by neckerchief, i.e. removing the side shoots that grow from the axils of the leaves. During the period of intensive growth to budding plants are sometimes pinch, leaving 2-3 pairs of leaves, from the axils of which there are side shoots. As a result, plants are best bush, blooming profusely, but the diameter of the flower is smaller than neckerchief.

Care after flowering Calceolaria often grown as an annual plant, but you can save it for next year. After flowering it is cut and tied for 1.5-2 months in a cool dark place, occasionally wetting the earth com (do not put the complete drying of the soil). When it begins to grow new growth, it put on the lighted area, where it blooms. Flowering begins at 2 months earlier than in plants grown from seeds, and is weak. In this case, the plant significantly stretched, loose decorative inherent young specimens.

Reproduction: Calceolaria propagated by seed. For autumn flowering they are sown in March for the spring - in June. The seeds are very small and dusty. Sow them in a light sandy soil, not prisypaya ground. Zemlesmes to dive and planting includes deciduous and grassy land, peat and sand (2:1:1:1). Humidify the crops from a spray and cover with plastic wrap or glass. Pre-emergence soil kept wet in shading. Crops should be aired frequently to prevent mold growth. If the inside of the glass or film formed dew shelter must turn, not allowing moisture to plants.

Seedlings appear quickly, in about 2 weeks. Young seedlings twice diving in boxes - in two weeks and six weeks of age. Formed seedlings are transplanted into individual pots and put on a bright place. The optimum temperature for germination 20 ° C, and after transplant 14-16 ° C. Bloom calceolaria 8-10 months after planting.

Calceolaria shrub propagated by cuttings and more. After a short crop of old plants form a mass of suckers, which are on the cuttings. Produce cuttings in August or February-March. For strong bushy potted plant in a pot for a few cuttings, which root in 3-4 weeks.

Pests: calceolaria frequently damaged by aphids and whiteflies, the leaves turn yellow, deformed, the plant withers and dies quickly. Lower the temperature in the room, well-ventilated area. To combat the leaf aphids and whiteflies apply fumigation with tobacco smoke. To prevent good use of insecticide-candles.

CINERARIA

2012-08-20T08:25:00.007-07:00

CINERARIA

Popular potted hybrid cineraria (Cineraria hybrid) belongs to the aster family (Asteraceae), or Asteraceae (Compositae).

Source types are the origin of the Canary Islands. Pure varieties in production greenhouses to grow practically impossible, as the plants are easily crossed.

Cineraria grow well in low term greenhouses, blooming in 7-9 months after planting. The plant has small yellow blossoms, pink, blue, purple flowers. Withered instances are of particular importance to gardeners.

For crops and the pick is a mixture of leaf and compost soil (1:1) or peat and sand (1:1). Further cultivation in pots and ridges is on the ground, consisting of turf, leaf and compost soil (2:1:2) or turf and sphagnum peat (1:2).

When culture on peat at 1 m were added 2.5 kg of fertilizer "B" or the following components: i: potassium nitrate - 1700, ordinary superphosphate - 1030; sulphate - magnesium - 300, iron - 5 Manganese - 3, zinc - 0 , 5, of copper - 0.5 boric acid - 5. In all cases, the pH of 6.0-6.5.

In 1 g contains 3.4 thousand seeds. Of this number, you can get about two thousand plants, suitable for implementation. Germination is stored for 3 years. Summer-autumn crop (July - September) bloom in March and April, the spring (March-April) - in November - January and the spring-summer (end of July) - In January-February. 2-3 weeks after germination spend pick in boxes of 60-70 pieces. Protect seedlings from direct sunlight.

After 6-7 weeks after picking, when the plants begin to touch, they are put in pots with a diameter 11 to 13 cm and pritenyayut until they take root. The plants are arranged on 14-16 pieces / m., And with the beginning of buds - 12-14 pcs / m.

During the summer, like boxes with seedlings and pots better contain greenhouse or under the film with open sidewalls. In realization are only full-blown copies cineraria.

Plant out seedlings watered regularly, occasionally sprayed water on a sunny day - 2 times a day. Established and having got to the growth cineraria sprayed less.

After planting in pots plants should be well watered. In the future (especially in the period of the temperature 6-8 ° C), moisten the soil moderately, avoiding, however, the drying.

On sunny days, cineraria quickly fade, but watered easily restore juicy stems. Much more dangerous than a surplus of moisture: the leaves wither and the plants die.

Cineraria seeds germinate at 16-18 ° C. Then, the temperature was lowered to 14 ° C. Planted in pots of plants at first kept at 10-12 ° C, and when they start - at 6-8 ° C. It is very important to maintain a low temperature in November - January. Since the beginning of the formation of buds cineraria requires more heat - about 12-14 ° C.

Culture can in bright rooms, but does not like direct sunlight. It is best grown in the northern part of the greenhouse. Seedlings watered with 0.1% solution of crystalline.

Cineraria, transplanted into pots and began to develop, every 10-15 days, fed a 0.2% solution of the same fertilizer. Since the beginning of flowering extra food stop.

Artificially pollinated cineraria readily form seeds. To do this, pick a compact, well-developed, healthy specimens with horizontal baskets.

On a sunny day at about 10:00 am, with a soft brush the pollen is transferred from one flower to another of the same plants. The procedure is repeated two times a week, unless there seeds. They have a fluffy flying detachment and easily fall off, so it is important to harvest time. Treated seeds are stored in a cool, dry, dark place.

Many growers in growing cineraria may encounter the following problems:

1. The plant has the lower leaves wilt. Hence, the substrate is too dry or wet. In the first case, you have to water profusely or while immersed in water pots. Wetting the soil when the plant can not be saved.

2. Bushes stretched, weak, poor quality. Most likely, the reason for this is that the pots are too closely. Place them so that the plants are not touching.

3. The leaves are wrinkled, curled edge down, buds bloom poorly. Most likely landing struck aphids. In the greenhouse temperature is too high.

4. The leaves bright brown spots. This is the result of careless irrigation.

5. The underside of the leaves, stalks and buds are white soft coating, drying herbs, buds are deformed. Rather, it is powdery mildew.

6. In young plants on the upper side of leaves - pale greenish spots (then they turn brown) on the bottom - Downy mildew; plate quickly shrivel and fall off.

Disease - mildew. Necessary to strengthen ventilation of greenhouses, to add to potash. It is important not to overfeed the plant with nitrogen.

7. In seedlings and adult specimens in the stems and stalks of red-brown spots with ashen middle. This blight. You should remove the diseased plants.

8. Dry leaves, buds do not bloom or bloom late. On young shoots from the bottom of the plates and inflorescences can be seen wingless and winged insects. There was potato aphid.

9. The leaves and buds of gnawing. In the greenhouse, outside cabbage moth flies. Insert the window frame with a mesh or gauze. Destroy weeds around the greenhouse.

10. In the pulp leaves gnawed white winding paths. The reason for this - meat omnivorous fly. Need to break the leaves until they still have caterpillars and larvae of the pest.

Correct and in compliance with all the rules of farming, you will achieve remarkable success in raising and breeding of cineraria, which will delight you with flowers all summer long, giving you an unforgettable experience and memories.

CLIVIA

2012-08-20T08:22:00.002-07:00

CLIVIA

Finest decoration-flowering plant Clivia is distinguished by its simple beauty. This flower is nothing extra. It is beautiful in any season, whether flowering or rest. Especially pleased that in the winter months, Clive blooming, transforms itself and transforms all the surrounding space abundant rich beauty of multiple large and very bright flower clusters. The impression is that Clivia envoy from a country where there is always a spring and orange-yellow mood! These gorgeous flowers Clivia has a long juicy stem, densely covered the surface of the earth, its elongated, slightly curving leaves that grow directly from the rhizome. Each year, on the same plant produces 15-20 of inflorescences. On the other hand, is a Clivia flower care which is reduced to the simplest minimum rules - not re wet plant that does not cover the sun for a long time and give the plant a rest period. Clivia - indoor plant has the rare beauty of living and good endurance. Recommend it to you to compulsory cultivation at home.

Clivia Care

Optimal Storage: keep in a period of rest as possible moderate temperature - 14-15 0C, in a period of growth 20-22 0C. Lighting: between peace Cleve set aside in place of shade, in a period of growth and flowering provide good ambient lighting. Humidity: spray is optional. Watering: Do not re wet soil as This is certainly cause root rot, moderate watering, small drying of the soil is acceptable. Fertilizer: 2 times a month, add to the water complex fertilizers for flowers. The soil: to root Clive suitable light soil - a mixture of turf and leaf soil and sand in equal amounts. Life expectancy: perennial. The complexity of development: easy to learn plant.

Clivia bloom

Flowering period Clive is in the middle-end of winter. Must precede the flowering of two-month period of rest. Clivia usually not flower because of its wrong organization. In early autumn, the plant set aside in the shade spot, stop fertilizing and watering Moderate. At the expiration of 8-12 weeks of resuming normal care and well lit, and temperature.

Clivia transplant

Try not to turn over Cleve, and if they do it, but only in extreme cases and with special care. The root system of Clive very fragile and unstable to decay in the damaged areas. Quite simply, the error for the transplant may kill the plant. For more information about the transplant can be found in replanting.

Clivia reproduction and growth

Clivia seeds - the best and safest way to its reproduction. Get seeds in two ways - in the shops, or to pollinate the already existing plant during its flowering. Germination of seeds need light soil and oblong box, in which planting the seeds (not too often, about every 6-8 cm) of watered abundantly, and the box is placed in a bag or a plastic film. After the emergence of young Clive neatly seated on a pot with good drainage and light soil mix, from then normal care. More information on the reproduction section of plant propagation (sexual reproduction of plants> seed propagation).

Clivia illness and problematic points

Due to waterlogging rhizome rot can cleave, please be careful watering, if water collects in the pan pot, be sure to immediately drain it. Clive pests - spider mite and beetle. The methods of treatment plants described in the sections: plant pests and plant diseases.

Extraordinary Clivia Photo

Clivia species

Clivia Vermilion clivia miniata - the main species grown in the home. Comes from South Africa. At the height of up to 45 cm, the leaves usually grow no longer than half a meter.

Clivia is not complicated enough to care for the plant and, with proper winter, blooms twice as much per year. To do this, in the autumn watering gradually to a condition which does not only allow the leaves wilt. The plant puts on a winter vacation in a cold room with a temperature of 12 degrees 7, where it should be a light (but not direct sunlight) and spacious. Clivia only thing that does not like, so it is - any concern: Do not move the pot during the tying buds and during flowering, do not repot the plant until the roots begin to come out of the pot (and then, only after flowering).

During the winter holiday does not cleave to feed and keep watering to a minimum. If at this time the leaves begin to dry, it is quite normal, let them wither quietly, but do not increase watering. Once the stems reach a height of 10-15 cm, and gradually increase watering during flowering, and later in the spring and summer, water the plants died, as the drying of the soil. Since the opening of flowers begin to feed Clive complete mineral fertilizer every 21 days. In the fertilizer should not be a lot of nitrogen, and when fertilizing with organic fertilizers, they throw a lot of water - excess nitrogen in the dressing inhibits second blossoming, stimulating the growth of the leaves.

Spring - summer Clive contain in diffuse light, very suitable balconies and windows of the northern and western areas and shady corner of the garden, periodically spray the leaves with water, the plant watered and fed. The plant should not be hot, the optimum temperature 18 degrees.

To re-summer flowering, in the event that she does not want Clivia bloom, it must be stimulated. Two flowering year can handle only large mature plant. Pot with a plant in late July to make a dusky room with a balcony or garden. Watering a little cut and at this time the plant was not fed. After a week or two lower leaves may begin to turn yellow, but you should see the stems.

If you do not have to comply with all the complexity of care, then do not. Clivia easy on the windows of any orientation, at any temperature, adapts to any watering, except frank Bay, and will delight you with blooms, even once a year, but in the most unpredictable season. Clivia - one of the most durable houseplants. When transplanting Clive better to take soil mixture of 8 parts sod land, 4 pieces of leaf and 1 part sand.

Rusty spots on the leaves can be a sign of improper watering or burn direct sunlight. In the first case - the water the plant only after the top layer of soil is dry, having stood in the room (not near the battery) with water from time to time wipe the leaves with a damp soft cloth and spray from a spray the underside of leaves of cold boiled water. In the second case - move the plant to the west, east or north window. And if this is not possible, the window in the house is only one, and only the southern, move the plant into the room. If the spots on the leaves look like narrow strips of rusted, then this is a sign of disease. You can lubricate the spot copper oxychloride, 3-4 g per liter of water once a week. The spots will not disappear, but must stop to grow in size and new spots should no longer appear. But we hope that your plant is suffering only because of errors care.

CYCLAMEN

2012-08-20T08:18:00.004-07:00

CYCLAMEN

Cyclamen - a perennial plant that forms corms almost spherical shape, hence the name of the flower ("tsiklos" means "cycle"). Another name for the plant "dry aqua." Cyclamen also called "swine bread" because wild boar has long loved to feast on his club.

Green leaves of Cyclamen are on long stalks and have a decorative silver gray pattern. The flowers can be white, pink, purple hues, the petals of some hybrids are terry. Within 8-9 months, the cyclamen rests, finished flowering and dropping leaves. Flowering cyclamen is long and plentiful; depending on the type of plant and the conditions it may start in October and continue until the end of March.

Cyclamen room: how to select cyclamen

About to make a purchase, pay attention not only to the state of the foliage, but the tuber, which should be free of rot. Cyclamen is best to buy in the autumn, when the bloom is just beginning, well, if this plant will have a lot of buds.

Cyclamen: care, how to care for cyclamen

If you take good care of cyclamen, this houseplant will delight you for 20 years of its lush flowering. When planting tuber not bury in the ground, remember that its upper third should be above ground. Another important feature of the care of the flower - is growing cyclamen in a small pot to bloom was magnificent, but not tuber rots.

Growing cyclamen. Care during flowering cyclamen

During flowering cyclamen should provide cool air, the ideal temperature at this time is 12-15 degrees Celsius. Make sure that the temperature was above 20 degrees and did not fall below 10 degrees Celsius. Blooming cyclamen need a lot of light, but not direct sunlight, otherwise the plant will quickly wither, the flowering period can be reduced or ended.

This indoor plant needs regular watering. Watering is better in pallet or by immersion for several minutes. Take care that on tuber sprouts and no water. Eliminate the soil moisture, which can be detrimental to the tuber, and therefore for the flower as a whole.

You can spray the air around cyclamen, but in any case, do not direct the flow of drops of water directly to the plant (leaves, flowers, and tubers).

Indoor cyclamen. Care after flowering cyclamen

Usually in the spring for cyclamen begins a rest period. This means that flowering ceases, the leaves wither. Watering the plants in this period significantly reduced. If the leaves are fallen themselves, then they should be removed by twisting or using scissors, cutting as close to the club, but very carefully so as not to damage it by accident.

Recommended pot cyclamen move to a cooler shade and prevent drying out of the soil. Remember, cyclamen likes warm and dry air. Cyclamen can be taken into the fresh air in the shade.

When the plant leaves appear first, it means that the plant woke up and came out of dormancy.

Cyclamen tubers: Cyclamen transplant

Cyclamen transplant performed at the end of the rest period and the beginning of budding. During transplanting plants should replace earth com, remove dead and rotten roots cyclamen. After the transplant, the flower put on a bright place, protected from direct sunlight. Watering in the first two weeks after transplant should be moderate. And in two weeks you can start feeding cyclamen.

Cyclamen: reproduction, cyclamen seeds

Cyclamen are propagated by dividing the tubers or seeds. Seeds of Persian, European and Neapolitan cyclamen should be sown in late summer, the temperature of the air was in the range of 15-20 degrees Celsius. In 15-18 months starts flowering period of most varieties of Persian cyclamen. The period of sowing seeds kosskogo cyclamen have for the winter, in January and February. European cyclamen well propagated by dividing the tubers in February. It is believed that cyclamen grown from seed will be more adaptable to indoor conditions than those grown in the greenhouses of the Netherlands.

Cyclamen: care for the plant, the basic requirements

Temperature: The ideal temperature for cyclamen - about 12-15 degrees, the temperature should not be below 10 degrees or above 20 degrees.

Light: bright place, protected from direct sunlight.

Watering cyclamen: During the growing season and flowering cyclamen regularly needs watering.

If watering from the top, you need to make sure that no water enters in the tuber; this water is poured over the edge of the pot.

Humidity: Cyclamen likes moist air, so the air around the flower mono wet with spray, but ensure that moisture does not go directly to the plant. You can also put a flower pot on a tray of wet pebbles.

Care after flowering Persian cyclamen: After flowering cut to the tuber, reducing watering and fertilizing finishing plant. If there is a yellowed leaves, they are twisting with petioles, not cut. The remaining leaves in the spring pod so nut and the plant will go into a state of rest, then watering should be stopped. Pot should be put to the side and put in a cool place. To mid-summer flowers are not watered.

Around the middle of the summer pot put in place shadow outdoors. Periodically the earth begins to moisten. When the first leaves, the plants are ready for transplanting.

Care after flowering cyclamen other species: For the rest of cyclamen (all but the Persian), longer enough to unscrew the leaves and stop fertilizing.

Transplant Cyclamen: Cyclamen transplant is performed with a complete replacement of the old land. The soil to the Persian cyclamen: sheet, humus, sod land and sand, taken in equal parts. During the transplant removed rotten roots. Diameter pot ideal for cyclamen 12-14 cm If the pot is too small, the cyclamen bloom too early and flowering will be weak and short-lived. The large diameter of the pot is also undesirable.

For other species of cyclamen (all but Persian) should add ash or dolomite flour to reduce soil acidity. The ground for the Neapolitan and European cyclamen should be nutritious for kosskogo - poor.

GODETIA

2012-08-20T08:15:00.000-07:00

GODETIA

Name: in honor of Swiss botanist C. X. Year. There are about 20 species growing in North and South America.

Description: herbaceous plants, annuals, with erect, branched stems 20-60 cm tall. Bushes compact, narrow-pyramidal or spreading. Leaves lanceolate, entire, arranged in regular order. The flowers are large, bell-shaped or cup-shaped, simple, with four petals, or double, to 3-10 cm in diameter, on short stalks, white, pink, salmon-pink, carmine, purple, lilac, red, gathered in racemose inflorescence, which extends as far as the new blooming flowers. Fruit - a cylindrical, square box. In 1 g to 3500 seeds remain viable for 3 years.

Annual highly compact, bushy plant covered with fine hairs. Stems are erect, 20-40 cm tall, or recumbent, smooth, delicate, at the end of flowering woody bottom. Leaves entire, or broadly lanceolate, tapering to the base. The flowers are large, up to 10 cm in diameter, bell-shaped or cup-shaped, single or double, in dense leafy arms, located at the ends of shoots in the axils of the upper leaves, petals silky white, purple, pink. scarlet, crimson, red, dark red, shining. Flowering from July to October. Seeds ripen well, remain viable for up to 3 years. In culture, since 1867. Has many hybrid varieties as double, tall (60 cm) and lower and bushy, azalietsvetnye, dressing with a wavy edge, dwarf varieties for borders.

Examples of the most common varieties:

('Blitzshtrahl') - sredneroslye bushes, spreading, 45-60 cm tall, branching. The shoots are green with reddish-brown tint. Leaves lanceolate. The flowers are simple, cup-shaped, dark red, 5-6 cm in diameter, the edges of the petals slightly wavy.

('Weisser Schwann') - low bushes, spreading, 30-35 cm tall, silnovetvisty. Green shoots at the base of brown. Leaves broadly. The flowers are simple, satin white, cup-shaped, 5-6 cm in diameter, with entire petals.

('Jork') - low bushes, spreading, 35-40 cm tall. The shoots are reddish-brown. Leaves broadly. The flowers are simple, cup-shaped, large, up to 6 cm in diameter, carmine-purple, white at the base, petals entire.

('Meteor') - low-growing bush, compact, 25-30 cm tall. The shoots are green with reddish-brown tint. Leaves lanceolate. Flowers double, broadly, large, up to 7 cm in diameter, dark crimson. The edges of the petals entire or slightly wavy.

('Orange Room') - bush middle hight, semi, 40-50 cm tall, branching. The shoots are green with a reddish tinge. Leaves narrowly lanceolate. The flowers are simple, broadly, up to 5 cm in diameter, dark orange-red petals edged.

('Rembrandt') - low bush, compact, 30-35 cm high, hemispherical. The shoots are green with a pink tinge. Leaves broadly. Doubled flowers, pink with carmine large spot on each petal, 5-6 cm in diameter. Petals on the edge wavy, finely dissected.

('Sybil Sherwood') - low bush, compact, 30-40 cm tall. The shoots are green with a pink tinge. Leaves lanceolate. The flowers are semi-double, salmon-pink, with a lighter edge, up to 5 cm in diameter. Edged petals.

('Feuerkenig') - low bush, compact, 20-23 cm tall. The shoots are green with a pink tinge. Leaves narrowly lanceolate. The flowers are simple, bell-shaped, 4-4.5 cm in diameter, red at the base of each petal a small white spot, solid edge.

Godetsiya lovely - G. amoena (Lehm.) G. Don

Homeland - California.

Very elegant plant to 60 cm tall with erect, slender, smooth, brittle stems, poluodre-vesnevayuschimi the end of flowering. The leaves are narrow, pointed or lanceolate. The flowers are cup-shaped or bell-shaped, about 5 cm in diameter, purple-crimson, reddish-pink or red, various shades with satin petals shiny shovel shape. Flowering from July to September. Seeds ripen well, keeping the germination 2-3 years.

Location: Requires a sunny position.

Soil: well-developed and bloom profusely in loamy soils, but can not tolerate dry. In the rainy summer suffer from damp, and dry - the heat.

Care: Grow with regular watering and fertilizing every 10 days. In order to maintain an abundant and long-term (to fall) blooms, be sure to pinch off the ovary.

Diseases and pests: the weedy soils are damaged leaf-eating pests, and therefore must be clean landings, avoiding the development of weeds.

Propagation: seed, sowing of which is produced in April and May, or directly in the ground in March and April, in a hothouse or greenhouse, pick performed in pots 3-4 seedlings. Seeds germinate in 2 weeks. In southern winter cropping is possible. Transplant is carried only at an early age and with a lump of earth. Crops are planted and thinned seedlings, keeping a minimum distance of 15-20 cm between plants

Use: in perennial borders, flowerbeds, group plantings, mixborders. It is suitable for planting in outdoor vases, containers on balconies. Capacity preferred light color, it will reduce their heating (and hence the ground) the sun, that would be beneficial for the duration of flowering. High grades are good for cutting.

HOYA

2012-08-20T08:11:00.003-07:00

HOYA

Hoya - one of the most common indoor flowering vines. Received its name in honor of the English gardener T. Hoey. A genus of plants of the family Asclepiadaceous, has about 200 species, distributed in Australia, China, India, the Pacific Islands.

Hoya - evergreen shrub or shrub with climbing, creeping or hanging long, thin stems that require support. The leaves are dark green, one-piece, thick, leathery, of different size and shape, are opposite. Hoya flowers are very delicate, white, pink, yellow, fragrant, collected in umbellate inflorescence and sell in a basket. Each individual flower is shaped five-pointed star, much less a star located in the center of the flower and has a different coloring.

After the first flower buds and during flowering, the plant does not touch the product or be moved from place to place, or already blooming buds and flowers will fall off. Hoya blooms all summer, starting in June, each inflorescence bloom for several weeks. After flowering, cut the flower stalks are not, as in the following year they developed new buds. With good care strongest specimens bloom profusely and continuously.

In indoor horticulture often grow Hoya Hoya and meaty perfect.

Hoya fleshy (Hoya carnosa). Known in the culture as a wax ivy. Climbing shrub with slender stems over a length of 5 m (in the pot up to 2 m). The leaves are ovate-oblong, thick, juicy, leathery, glossy, up to 5.8 cm leaf apex obtuse or shortly pointed. In room culture known variegated forms with cream and reddish patches in the middle of the sheet and with yellowish border around the edge. The leaves are covered with a waxy bloom, hence the common name of this plant. The flowers are star-shaped, fragrant, white, pink, with a darker spot in the middle, gathered in an umbrella. Motherland - China and India.

Hoya fleshy

Hoya carnosa

Inflorescence Hoya tenderloin

Hoya carnosa

Hoya wonderful or beautiful (Hoya bella) - a small evergreen with many branches, very leafy shrub with sloping or drooping branches, reaching 30-50 cm in length. The leaves are small (3-3.5 cm), ovate-lancelets with a pointed apex, fleshy. Flowers numerous, star-shaped, white in the middle of crimson. Homeland - Burma.

Hoya beautiful

Hoya bella

Inflorescence beautiful Hoya

Hoya bella

Rarely in the sale can be seen Hoya Multiflora (Hoya multiflora). Is a compact climber. The leaves are oblong, linear, 8-14 cm long, 4-5 cm wide, thin, dark green with visible veins. The flowers are yellowish-white, in the form of bats, collected in inflorescence umbrella, have a characteristic smell of lemon. In this inflorescence can be up to 30-40 flowers. Homeland - Indonesia, the Philippines.

Hoya Multiflora

Hoya multiflora

Inflorescence Hoya Multiflora

Hoya multiflora

Hoya, thanks to its decorative merits and small claims in culture is becoming more and more widespread among houseplants.

Plant Care

Location: Hoya should grow in bright rooms. The best place for this waxy ivy western and eastern windows. Useful little direct sun, but in the summer the hottest days to plant pritenyat.

Temperature during the active growth optimum temperature is about 22-25 ° C. Necessary to ventilate the room, where the Hoya, but outdoors it cannot endure. In winter the temperature does not exceed 12-15 ° C (for Hoya beautiful winter minimum of 18 ° C). Can hibernate and at a higher temperature, but flowering next year will not be as plentiful.

Watering in the spring and summer time Hoya recommended to water profusely, but trying to avoid waterlogging, and during flowering make sure that no water enters the flowers in winter, depending on the temperature of the water regime changes, but do not allow drying earthen coma. Watering is recommended well-settled water.

Abundant flowering can be stimulated by immersing the whole plant for 30 minutes in warm water with a temperature of 35 ° C, and the ball lands in the same water for 2 hours.

Humidity: undemanding in a cool room, but at temperatures above 20 ° C it is often necessary to spray the leaves. For spraying, use only soft water, otherwise the leaves are formed spots. Once a week, the leaves should be cleaned with a damp cloth to remove dust.

Dressing: from the spring and throughout the growing season, Hoya fed twice a month flower fertilizers, then the soil must be loosened without damaging the roots. Grows well in hydroponics.

Transplantation: the young plants are transplanted each year in spring, older copies - in 2-3 years. Best substrate is a mixture of leaf, turf ground, humus, peat and sand (2:1:1:1:1). At the bottom of the pot set good drainage to earth com re wet not. Care must be taken and the support for the rapidly growing long shoots.

In order to better plant branch, long stems pinch. If the shoots become too long, some can be cut. Better crop growth long shoots, leaving the short branches, which are flowering.

Propagation: Hoya propagated by seed, layering, but most cuttings.

Propagated by cuttings Hoya shoots of the previous year in the spring or fall, although almost rooting possible throughout the year. At each harvested graft should be at least two pairs of leaves. Slice do not directly under the node and below, as the roots appear in the interstices. Rooted in water, or in damp sand substrate, consisting of peat and sand (2:1) at a temperature below 20 ° C. Rooting occurs in 3-4 weeks. Once the cuttings are rooted, they are planted with several eggs in one pot. Grafted plants bloom in the fourth year.

Pests: with little care for Hoya can settle armored scales, red spider mites. The plant is often affected with powdery mildew (mildew).

Red spider mite appears on the plant, if it is contained at very high temperatures and dry air. Formed on the leaves are light brown or small white spots. The leaves turn yellow, dry up and fall off. The plant is delayed in growth and development. Necessary to increase the humidity around the plant, and the plant is treated aktellik (15-20 drops to 1 liter of water).

The emergence of scale insects are also extremely frustrating. The plant gets sloppy form leaves wither and fall off. Scale insects on the discharge settles sooty fungus. Scale insects clean off with a cloth moistened with soapy water or alcohol. With heavy infestation plant should be drawn from the apartment and process with carbonate phosphate.

To combat sucking insects can also be used extracts of garlic and onions. Take 1 teaspoon of finely chopped onion and 1/2 teaspoon garlic and soaked in a closed glass of water during the day, then this infusion wash plant.

Powdery mildew affects the leaves of the plant, they appear white bloom. Launched on plant mildew covers the buds and stems. Necessary to strengthen ventilation in the room and increase humidity.

Possible difficulties in growing waxy ivy (Hoya)

The spots on the leaves. The reason for their appearance - lack or excess of light. High doses or excessive use of fertilizers. The spots can appear as a result of watering plants with cold water.

Hoya does not bloom - poor lighting, not enough nutrients in the soil, the plant wintered at high temperature. If the stalks are cut, the plant may not bloom for several years.

Growing hoy - it is not too complex, with an exciting and lots of fun. Some Hoyas grow very slowly and reluctantly, but others instantly turn into an adult flowering specimens. Their diversity is striking: the green and variegated, large-and small-leaved, vines and upright.

Unlike other plants, Hoya let grow new flowers on old stalks, so they do not have to break off after flowering. Over the years, the number of stems increases and becomes more abundant blooms. However, there are exceptions - for example, in H. bella and H. linearis stalks blooms only once, litter fall after flowering. In H. multiflora peduncles usually fall after the second bloom.

Peduncle at H.carnosa development is as follows:

• The appearance of the peduncle.

• Development of the peduncle.

• dissolve the peduncle.

• The second wave of blossoms fades to spike.

Depending on your preferred method of growth Hoya can be divided into three groups: ampelous (hanging) binding the support and upright (bush). As an example of the latter group of plants can cause Hoya multiflora and Hoya cumingiana. (However, the question is not whether to move them to a different genus, Centro stemma, botanists discussed.)

Since Hoya still quite rare in the sale, the main method of acquisition - the purchase of the cuttings. Good cutting should have at least two nodes, that is, two pairs of leaves. Three or four pairs of leaves are preferable, because such cuttings quickly give roots and embark on growth. Cuttings smaller implant is also quite possible, especially if it is a species with large leaves. Cuttings of plants are best cut in the spring, when the plant comes out of dormancy. It is best suited for rooting shoots last year. Older or younger shoots too entrenched, but it may require more time and effort.

There are several ways of rooting cuttings.

The easiest way - in a glass with water.

The alternative is rooting in moss, sphagnum moss or a special substrate.

The formulation of the substrate may vary. Here are two examples:

The first option

1 part sphagnum moss or peat;

1 part vermiculite or perlite;

1 part fine expanded clay aggregate or foam.

The second option

3/5 of planting material;

Fifth part perlite or vermiculite;

1/5 of small clay pellets.

Some advice cutting process before boarding rooting gel or other means to improve root formation, but it is not a mandatory procedure.

Capacity for cuttings are determined solely by your imagination. It can be clay or plastic pots, disposable cups or coffee cups. In the latter case, you just do not forget the drainage holes. Bottles of soda water or cartons cakes can be used as a mini-greenhouse. Of course, the ideal would be a board greenhouse with bottom heating. If you are not limited to one or two handles, this will be a good acquisition.

It happens on the handle appear stalks with buds. Sometimes before the formation of roots. In most cases, these buds fall off on their own, because of the cutting is not enough for these forces. Therefore, they can provide their own fate. You may even be able to see more blooms in a glass of water. If the stalk is not thrown off the buds itself, one or two of the flower bloomed it’s not particularly weakened, cannot worry.

Stalk, which gave good roots and having gone to the growth, you can move into a permanent pot. It is very important not to overdo it with the size. It is better if the size of the pot will be slightly less necessary than too large. In a large pot over your cutting will develop roots at the expense of their own growth and flowering. Even the most powerful of these vines thrive for years in pots with a diameter 17-20 cm is not so large species will feel well in a pot with a diameter of 10-12 cm entire life.

In what soil to plant rooted cutting? Universal solution does not exist. First, preferences hoi defined by their natural occurrence, very diverse. Second, they are quite well adapted to the preferences and financial capabilities of their respective owners.

There are people who have completely grown successfully Hoya in the ordinary soil of a flower shop. However, most are still trying to establish their plants more suitable conditions.

Therefore, we suggest to approach this issue creatively. Try to learn more about the natural origin of their plants, and do not allow whose whatever practical advice to take the upper hand over your unconditional logical thinking. This is not always justified.

Many hoya suitable mixture of the following composition:

1 part perlite or vermiculite;

1 part small clay pellets;

1 part sphagnum moss or peat;

2 of the usual soil for plants.

For species that are sensitive to dry, add a little more moss. Do not add sand to the mix, as in this case, it quickly dries up and compressed.

But sensitive and fastidious H. serpens and H. curtisii, for example, will be much better feel in orchid substrates or substrate based on coconut fiber.

Some collectors are grown all my Hoya is in orchid substrate. Some of them fill the pot halfway. As the filler remaining space is used garden soil, mixed with slaked lime, or soil mixture containing the above ingredients in a particular ratio.

All Hoya need breathable substrate.

The final choice - for you.

For example, a collector from the city of Levin in New Zealand, says that her H. bella grew well for a long time in the pieces of pumice. A H. carnosa felt great in a small glass of water, which occasionally added fertilizer. Stem of the plant is completely above the water, for his support in a glass poured pebbles that hoyka gladly braided roots. However, for such experiments, probably makes sense to choose a widespread plant.

Mature plants should be repotted about once a year, in a pot, little more than the same volume. Some species prefer a rare transplant.

We must bear in mind that there is a period of rest Khoi, in which the plant as a "freeze", stopping growth. In nature, it depends on the change of seasons. At home, the seasons do not have a clear character and a period of rest will soon depend on the reduction of daylight. If you managed to create all the necessary conditions Hoya's content, it might be just a "miss" a period of rest. If the plant is "stopped", stopping in growth, - a few reduce watering. All transplants it is desirable to make the period of active growth, which appeared when the rest of the plant is growing strongly, and it becomes a regular watering.

There is a widespread misconception that the Hoya need bright sunshine, the low or no fertilizer and watering lean. This is a myth, because the lack of irrigation Hoya weaken, and even die. Ensure, for example, H. bella generous regular watering (not to be confused with the Gulf!) and feeding, and it will bloom like never before. Or try to dry completely earthen who your H. serpens - very likely it simply dies. Plants need light for photosynthesis. However, the increase of light will lead to, for example, species with dark green leaves that grow naturally in shadow places, simply change color, blush, to be protected from excessive sunlight. Reddening of leaves in most cases may indicate the following:

plant is too bright in the correct place;

plant is too hot;

in the sun too hot pot, and, consequently, the earth com plants.

Try to formulate some general provisions hoya’s care, not forgetting that there are no rules without exceptions. No matter how extensive collection of people on the basis of experience which state these tips, all hoi not managed to collect anyone. So listen to your plants, not counting anyone's advice guide to action, not suffering the slightest derogation.

Thick hard or succulent leaves

Typically, this plant likes sun. They should be watered with dry earthen clod between watering’s. The exception is the Hoya australis, which grows best at constant moisture (not wet, turning into a swamp!) And in partial shade.

Examples: H. carnosa, H. kerrii, H. pubicalyx.

Thin sheet

Needs regular watering, in most cases, generally in a constant humidity earthen clod as thin leaves indicate that the plant loses moisture rapidly. Thin leaves species generally do not like direct sun, in contrast to the succulent species. For most of them works best for west or east window. On the north window, they likely also will feel good.

Examples: H. multiflora, H. pauciflora, H. kenejiana.

Pubescent, light green leaves

These plants prefer a sunny content with copious irrigation, which is to prevent dehydration and wilting leaves.

Hairy, dark green leaves

Most of these plants seem to prefer cool and shady content. Regular watering, without overdrying Bay and earthen clod.

Examples: H. thomsonii, H. tsangii, H. serpens.

Watering Hoya, we must remember that none of them do not like to live with a wet "feet." For example, a very experienced collector from Massachusetts (David Misiaszek), said that keeps his collection without pallets to ensure that they do not accumulate excess water. Much water and the bay - two very different things.

Hui are major pests mealy bug, aphids, spider mites. Hoya also may be affected by the fungus. Ways to deal with adversity listed - traditional, you can find them in the section "pests".

The optimal composition of mineral fertilizing for hoi yet also remains open. Choosing the right fertilizer, it is advisable to listen to common sense, try to imagine how Hoya grew in nature and, if possible, to reproduce the conditions. Hoya, growing, for example, on the forks of tall trees where moss accumulates over time (eg, H. engleriana), will clearly refers to calcium in the fertilizer is not as Hoya's growing on the river bank, where the missing remains of shells (for example, H . inconspicua, or H. revoluta). A H. obtusifolia, inhabit the mountainous areas are likely to prefer a more "austere" mode fertilizing than inmates mangrove forests or jungles (eg, H. halophila, H. citrina and H. sariae).

The main reason that we must be guided by choosing empirically optimal fertilizer for their pets - "better not Doda than pass." As in the second case to correct the situation is more complicated. Any ready fertilizer sense diluted several times stronger than specified in the instructions. Specialists, growers Hoya commercially, it seems the best part of NPK + Mg (10-11-18-2). They also call for not delude fertilizers from supermarkets, saying that they practically do not contain beneficial trace elements.

Different sources also frequently mentioned by the lovely fertilizer for flowering succulents applied to Hoyas.

Also a common belief that the regular transfer (once a year or two) Hoya does not need regular mineral supplements.

HYDRANGEA

2012-08-20T08:06:00.003-07:00

HYDRANGEA

Name from the Greek words 'hydro' - water, 'aggeion' - a vessel that has demonstrated the moisture-loving plant of the genus.

Popular with gardeners around the world plant received its name through the efforts of the participants of the first French world expedition, led by Louis-Antoine de Bougainville: French physician and naturalist Philibert Commerson and future Russian Admiral Nassau-Siegen.

November 7, 1768, the expedition Bougainville, arrived on the island of Mauritius in the Indian Ocean. The crew went for a long vacation to the beach. Commerson, settling in a luxurious estate manager Poivre Island, quite a lot of time in the company of military engineer Jean-Henri Bernardera de Saint-Pierre, who took a great interest not only in botany, but Madame Poivre. This beautiful young woman always wore dresses and air loved flowers, and in both cases giving preference to white, pink and blue. Once the engineer took the Parisian scholar in that part of the park, where he grew up unknown bush, covered with flowers, of which he made bouquets for the woman. Plant, recently imported from China during the flowering covered with pink or blue blossoms-balls. Commerson immediately realized that to him unknown in Europe bush, and decided that he wanted to give the name of the beloved engineer. But on that day in their walk attended Nassau-Siegen. The young prince spoke passionately about his sister Hortense beautiful and showed her a miniature portrait. Commerson quickly realized that he has the opportunity to excel, and then proposed to call this Chinese flower called distant princess. Thus, ironically, the flower instead of being called "Poivre" became "hydrangea".

This is the latest European botany, plant taxonomy renamed to the name of Hydrangea macrophylla (Gidrangiya macrophylla) and carrying out the generic name from the Greek words hydro - water and angeion - vessel, stressing that that relates to moisture-loving plants. But the gardeners of the world is still called by his name Princess Hortense, sometimes adding the adjective "French" in memory of the fact that the Western world has learned about the plant by the first French world expedition.

Description: The genus contains 35 species distributed in Asia, North and South America. Under natural conditions in Russia grows two types.

Deciduous, large-leaved, ornamental shrubs (sometimes lianas), rarely small trees with many flowers in large inflorescences. Flowers usually of two types: small fruiting placed in the middle of the inflorescence boundary - large, barren, with 4-5 petaloid sepals, mostly snow-white, blue or pink. Fruit - 2-5-lobed capsule with many small seeds.

For the first time in Europe hydrangea was imported from Japan in 1820 From 1900 its selection. These were mostly varieties derived from low winter hardiness species Hydrangea macrophylla, or garden (H. macrophylla, H. hortensis). So first hydrangea grown only as an indoor plant. The first varieties have been bred French originators Lemuanom, Nancy, Muerom, Vendome. Already by the 60s of XX century. was removed about 100 varieties.

All botanical gardens Russia Introduced 12 species. They all grow well in the open Gunta central Russia. The exception was Hydrangea macrophylla, which is less winter-hardy than other species, and so is widely used in the south, but in the middle lane can be used for garden decoration as pot plants or as ornamental plants used in the interiors of practically everywhere.

The most common are: Hydrangea paniculata (H. paniculata Sieb.), Hydrangea (H. arborescens L.), hydrangea Groundcover 'Bretschneider' (N. heteromalla 'Bretschneideri' Dipp.). Much rarer more thermophilic species: oakleaf hydrangea (H. quercifolia), radiant hydrangea (H. radiata), ashy hydrangea (N. cinerea), hydrangea serrate (H. serrata), Sarzheta hydrangea (H. sargentiana), hydrangea rough ( H. aspera). In vertical gardening using hydrangea petiolate (H. petiolaris = H. anomala subsp. Petiolaris).

Location: in the south preferably half-shaded. Only some types of best bloom in the sun, but the strong watering. In central and north to plant hydrangeas in the open field choose well lit by the sun or a little shade. Young plants are best to keep safe from the midday sun and the wind. Because of the increased need for moisture hydrangea not to sit under the trees, which absorb moisture in large quantities.

Soil: demanding to wealth and soil moisture. Soil mix: humus, ground sheet, peat and sand (2:2:1:1). Please be aware that all types of hydrangeas are opposed to the presence of lime in the soil, the soil for them to be closer to the acidic (pH about 5.0). It is a reaction of the soil environment is usually the case in the middle lane. Several other less affected by lime, the tree, but also its "peace-loving" abuse is not necessary. Hydrangea hygrophilous. It is very easy to learn, since the literal translation of its Latin name gidrangea - a container of water. Hence, the soil should be watered timely.

Landing: hydrangea planted in the ground in the northern spring, in the south - in the spring and fall. Plants are planted in early spring at a distance of 1 m from each other, not buried root collar. The value of the pits for the young plants, 30 x 30 x 30 cm hydrangeas shallow root system, but extensive. Each hole is made third bucket of humus and peat, after planting the plants watered. Watering is better done with a soft rain water. After watering the soil loosened. At the end of May - beginning of June, spend fertilizing solution slurry at a ratio of 1:10 and complete mineral fertilizer: 20 g superphosphate, 10 g of potassium and ammonium nitrate in 10 liters of water. Fertilizers are applied repeatedly in 10-15 days. Supplementary feeding provides the best bloom in the current year and laying of flower buds of next year. Tree trunks humus or peat mulch, mulch after digging added. Conducted in autumn ridging bushes to a height of 20-30 cm

Care: well to all feeding. Spring at the beginning of growth make Riga mix with trace elements or 1 square. m account for 20 - 25 g of urea, 30 - 40 g of superphosphate and 30 -35 g of potassium sulfate. In the second period of budding make fertilizer at the rate of 60 - 80 g of superphosphate and 40 - 45 g of potassium sulfate per 1 square. m, and the third and fourth feeding - in the summer. Hydrangeas are hydrophilic: 15 - 20 liters under each plant give once a week, when rainfall is sufficient time in one month. To enhance the strength of plant shoots is recommended to water with a weak solution of acid-manganese potassium.

Peat or sawdust mulch layer 6 cm and leave them for the summer, otgrebaya from trunks of plants. Loosening to a depth of 5 - b cm spend together with weeding and watering 2-3 times per season.

There are two methods of artificial hydrangea flowers turn from white to blue. One - sprinkled around the roots aluminum sulphate. Second - shrub watering special bluing agent, which can be bought in the gardening store.

Most of the species described here hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla apart) does not require any special shelters. Only in the first 1-2 years of their harbor fall foliage and root system spud ground. Sargent hydrangea requires the same shelter and wrapping paper of the whole plant, or over the cartons. Hydrangea macrophylla needs a reliable shelter in winter and protection from spring frosts.

Pruning: Hydrangea paniculata and tree buds form on new growth this year. Without pruning hydrangea bushes very thickening, have started looking, and quality of flowering gradually decreases. If the early spring crop them tightly, they have formed strong shoots, which in the summer or early fall formed buds. The main requirement - holding pruning in early spring, so that there is time for a flowering growths. So pruning should hold in March-April, when growth buds begin to swell and you can see the location of new shoots. Clipped shrubs important to fertilizer to stimulate the formation of good healthy annual increase.

The purpose of the initial pruning is the formation of strong, evenly spaced skeletal stems. In the first year for the normal development of the root system of pruning hydrangeas should not be as strong as in the following years. When planting remove all weak and damaged shoots. In March-April, cut growth by one to three quarters of their length. Larger shrubs trimmed more than the less tall.

In the second year, in March and April last year strongly cut growth by developing buds of the older part of the stem. The soil at the base of the plant should be strongly zamulchirovat compost or manure to stimulate a powerful new growth. In subsequent years, trimming procedure is the same as in the second year. After a few years, the main lignified branches can thicken, so they should be periodically thin out. To ensure regular sprout need annual mulching plants. Shortage of food can lead to weak thin shoots. Hydrangea bushes rejuvenate aging by trimming on long timber or "on the stump" (heavily pruned, leaving a height of 0.5 - 0.8 m), such plants can bloom the following year, as the flowers are laid on the shoots of the current year. Autumn remove withered blossoms.

Do hydrangeas petiolate and ground cover in the spring slightly shorten long shoots, as a result they are better branch and bloom profusely. Annual growth of select few of the strongest shoots for subsequent replacement of old, weak shoots are removed, "the ring."

Hydrangea macrophylla have laid the flower buds on the ends of last year's shoots. In the spring of last year's only cut inflorescences, as well as small and dead shoots.

Growing plants and uterine trunks: hydrangea plants intended for liquor and plant cuttings for subsequent capture in the first 3-4 years grow slowly. So try to put them thickening middle acid maintain moisture and soil reaction, for which they are fed superphosphate and ammonium sulfate. Green stalks are cut each year (70-90% of shoots). The life span of queen - 25-30 years. On average, one bush 5-8 years can be cut up to 50 cuttings. Stam for growing seedlings leave forms on one powerful flight, the next year cut back all shoots except one, and the remaining shoots are cut top and side shoots off of it, forming a crown on trunks. So, every year the main escape shorten to a well-developed buds. When he reaches the 1 - 1.5 m in height, provide a crown. Each year, the leader of the escape is cut off at a strong kidney, and of the lower located 4-5 pairs of kidneys develop skeletal branches. Then formed a one-year crown. To do this, before the growing season cut all annual shoots, leaving each shoot 2-4 pairs of kidneys, and so is repeated every year.

Reproduction: mostly green hydrangea propagated by cuttings, which are cut from the shoots of the current year. Among other methods known winter cuttings, division bush, reproduction by layering, seeds and grafting. The last two methods is not used as a more expensive, less reliable and more labor-intensive. Varieties possessing only sterile flowers are propagated vegetatively, ie, cuttings, division bush, layering.

Can be propagated by dividing the bush all the hydrangeas. This operation was carried out in spring and autumn. For this shrub is dug and divided in such a way that in each plot were kidney regeneration. Raise the plants watered. When planted in the spring, fall, they take root.

For reproduction by layering annual shoots bend down to the ground and placed in the prepared hole so that the underground was part of the shoot with the kidneys. Then dig a hole. The apical part of the shoot, about 20 cm, must remain outside. Autumn or next spring rooted escape separated from the mother bush and planted in a permanent place.

Most often conducted reproduction spring or summer cuttings. Spring cuttings taken in early June, at the base of them should be kept small part of old wood, the so-called "heel." Summer cuttings taken in July, but lignification escape. To do this, cut stems from the apical part of the shoot of the year. Duration rooting 20 - 25 days. Cuttings harvested one or two internodes. To reduce evaporation leaves pruned by half. Use or mechanized irrigation dose injectors, or spraying with a fine spray jet. In both cases, a high percentage of rooting. The best conditions of propagation - the artificial fog and soil mix consisting of 2 parts peat and one part sand, one can take a sheet on top of the ground and cover it with a layer of sand in the 3 - 4 cm in some species - ashy hydrangea, paniculata - give 80-100% - tion rooting stimulants without treatment, others - 100% rooting observed in the processing of indole-butyric acid at a concentration of 0.01% (Hydrangea Chereshkovaya) and 0.005% (hydrangea).

In northern areas, some prefer to keep their first winter hydrangea paniculata rooted cuttings and tree in pots in a cold frame or basements, avoiding drying coma. Spring planted in the ground. At the second winter bushes left on the ridge with good shelter from spruce branches. It was only three years old are considered to be ready for the Russian winters.

Winter cuttings performed only Hydrangea macrophylla. The mother plant in October dug out of the ground, are transplanted into pots containing at 0 - 2 ° C. In January, they are transferred into a room with a temperature of 7 ° -10 ° C. The soil mixture should be made up of turf, humus soil, peat sand in the ratio 4:2:1:1. Two weeks later, queen cells start to grow. In February, they are cut from green cuttings that were rooted in the boxes with loose fertile soil layer 2-4 cm, sprinkled with river sand. Leaves pruned by half. In such conditions, the cuttings take root quickly and grow well, forming an extensive root system.

Hortense can sow in the open ground in April and May, and in the greenhouse in December. When sowing seeds in the ground station hydrangeas start to prepare the fall. Bed should be above ground level, it improves soil drainage. Better around the beds to make formwork 20-23 cm tall. Ground dug with the addition of peat and compost from rotted leaves. In heavy soil add sand. The ratio of different elements in the soil, preparing for planting should be as follows: 1 hour sod land, 1 part compost, 1 part ground sheet, 1/2 hours of sand, 1/2 hours of peat. Before sowing of the land must be removed all the weeds. Surface ridges align. Planting carried out in spring after a warm bed. Soil moisture should be optimal to have enough moisture for germination, so they do not dry. At the same time it should not be too much, because the need for germination and air. Before sowing the seeds of hydrangeas do not need any treatment. Seeds are sown in the garden scattered with his hand high above the ground. The seeds lightly pressed to provide them a good soil contact. Top seeds sprinkled with sand. Coarse sand provides good drainage, uniform flow of water into the soil. Spring sown seeds sprout in a month - in June.

For seedlings need special care. Need fertilizing with nitrogen and potassium, which is better to make a liquid. During the spring frosts are possible there will be shoots should cover newsprint. Must also regular weeding, watering of melkoyacheynoy watering can, preferably with rain water. By the end of the growing season of their height is 3-5 cm seedling second year of life has a height of 12 - 15 cm.

Use: hydrangeas should be planted singly or in groups on the lawn, you can use them in complex combinations with conifers and other deciduous and evergreen ornamental shrubs. Hydrangeas certainly adorn any garden plot.

To cut hydrangea blossoms remain fresh longer, the ends of the shoots break down and burn, and the leaves are removed.

For dried hydrangea paniculata flowers shoots or tree cut at the end of flowering, in September, pluck the leaves and dried by hanging in a dark ventilated head down - so I save natural coloring inflorescence.

When composing the white hydrangea flowers well add dried sprigs translucent pearl Lunaians.

Hortense (especially macrophylla) can not only dry up, but the "cure" with glycerin. A solution is prepared for canning of 6 parts of glycerol and 4 parts very hot water.

JACOBINIA

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JACOBINIA

Synonym “Justice”. Acanthaceae has about 50 species of herbs and shrubs in the family acanthus, in the wild common in Brazil, Mexico and Bolivia.

Jacobinia Justice - a perennial evergreen shrub, often reaching a height of 1.5 m Stalks straight semi lignified, swollen at the nodes, the reddish-brown. The leaves are opposite, oblong-oval, pointed at the tips, green or variegated. The flowers are tubular, two-lipped, and solitary or clustered in a very fine large spike inflorescence. Decorative they give elongated bracts of different colors - yellow, red, orange, sometimes white and pink.

Types

By type inflorescences and their location on the shoots are two of the Jacobinia.

Species with flowers in terminal inflorescences

Jacobinia brandegeana - evergreen small, highly branched shrub with small leaves up to 7 cm long, ovate-oblong, opposite, slightly hairy, dull-green, forming a delicate crown. Shoots drooping at the ends of most of the year there are spike inflorescence more than 10 cm long. The inflorescence consists of two-lipped tubular white flowers that are in the axils of reddish or yellowish-brown bracts resembling hop cones (because this plant is sometimes called the home hops). Flowers bloom gradually, one by one. And even when they wither and fall off, inflorescence a long time not lose its decorative and visual appeal. At home Jacobinia Brandegeana reaches 0.8-1 m high. Has several varieties.

Jacobinia carnea - shrub with slightly branched erect stems 0,6-1.5 m tall. Leaves opposite located, oval, 15-20 cm long, tapering to the top, pubescent, with wavy edges, dark green above, pale green below. Flowers are small, densely arranged on the inflorescences, 10-12 cm long, or forming a rounded head, 5 cm long, bright pink. Bracts lancelets, oblong-ciliated, bifurcated along, sticky, purple.

Jacobinia pohliana - shrub with slightly branched erect stems, height of 1.5 meters. The leaves are opposite, oblong, 15-20 cm long, with a slightly wavy edge, almost naked, purple, shiny, on a long, 8 cm long, petiole. Flowers in terminal inflorescences, pink.

Views from the flowers on the side shoots.

Jacobinia ghiesbrechtiana - shrubs up to 1 m tall, branched stems with reddish internodes. The leaves are ovate-lancelets, 7-15 cm long, leathery. Flowers on short stalks, sessile, usually 2-4 on the tips of axillary shoots, fiery red with a whisk 3-4 cm long, with a bi-lobed upper and lower lip trilobite, ciliated throat.

Jacobinia pauciflora - low-growing shrubs, only 30-60 cm tall, with drooping, branched stems. The leaves are elliptical, tapering to the top and at the base, leathery, up to 7 cm long and 3 cm wide, with the upper larger lower. Flowers single, bi-color, red, and orange-yellow color, 2 cm long, corolla tube often with spotty. Blooms profusely.

Care

Lighting

For normal development of the Jacobinia need bright, filtered light. Summer to shade from the midday sun. In winter, the plant takes a few hours of light to direct sunlight. It grows well under artificial light.

Jacobinia

Temperature

The optimum temperature for the Jacobinia in the spring and summer, 20-25 ° C, in winter rather 16-18 ° C. Summer will feel good on the balcony, terrace, in the garden. In September, brought into the house, or grown as an annual plant. Winter for most temperature should not fall below 16 ° C. For plants with flowers on lateral shoots in the winter to bloom bright room at a temperature of 10-12 ° C, since the heat does not stimulate flowering.

Air humidity

Jacobinia prefer high humidity, it requires regular spraying the leaves with a soft To defend water pots recommended to put in large pans, lined with damp moss or expanded clay. Humidity, if possible, should not fall below 60%.

Watering

In spring and summer, plants need abundant watering soft water having stood, as the drying of the top layer of the substrate. In winter, the temperature is lowered to 15-17 ° C limit watering. If the plant overwinter in a warm dry place to reduce the watering should be avoided. We cannot allow dry up earthen coma, otherwise you may fall off the flowers and leaves.

Fertilizer

During the period of active growth Jacobinia fed inorganic or organic fertilizer every 10 days. When overfeeding plant produces large leaves and blooms.

Pruning

Early spring Jacobinia necessarily pruned, leaving each shoot, 2-3 internodes. Pruning increases tillering, which in turn leads to increased mass flowering. Remaining after pruning shoots can be used as cuttings for propagation. Older plants can be cut short and transplanted into a smaller bowl.

Soil

Jacobinia suitable for humus substrate (pH 5.5-6.5), consisting of sheet turf ground, humus, peat and sand in equal parts.

Transplantation

Jacobinia transplanted in early spring as needed in a larger pot, gently, taking care not to damage the root system. Jacobinia oliganthous transplanted after flowering, in January - February.

Reproduction

Jacobinia propagated by cuttings and seeds.

The seeds germinate in soil at or below 20-25 ° C.

Species with flowers in terminal inflorescences are propagated by cuttings from January to April at 20-22 ° C. After rooting young plants are planted, one in 7-cm pots or three - to 11-cm pots, without further handling. Young plants pinch out two or three times. February deadline grafting cuttings blooming in July, March - September-October.

Views from the flowers on the side shoots propagated by herbaceous cuttings in January and February. After rooting young plants are planted in the 9-11-cm pots for 3-5 copies. The temperature is maintained at least 18 ° C. After the first handling temperature is lowered to 16 ° C. Contain a sunny spot. Young plants pinch out 2-3 times to encourage branching.

Jacobinia

Diseases and pests

Jacobinia quite resistant to diseases and pests are rarely affected. If too dry, the content may damage spider mites. First sign of a tick - yellowing leaves drooping, silvery webs on the underside of leaves. Should frequently wash and spray the plant with warm water. Remove affected leaves. With strong infection process a plant act face (15-20 drops to 1 liter of water).

Possible difficulties

Exfoliate - excessive soil moisture or soil dry up.

Too large leaves and blooms - excess fertilizer.

Yellowing leaves - dark and damp winter stay.

Leaves are falling - low humidity.

Jacobinia - ordinary indoor miracle

These shrubs with large glossy leaves are especially good in the bright floral dress exotic "Sultans" charming two-color or "bells".

Rhode Jacobinia, or Justice, as it is often called, consists of 50 species of perennial herbaceous plants and shrubs, common in Central and South America. Many of them are flowering plants that are cultivated in greenhouses and botanical gardens thrive in flower farms.

Care depends on the Jacobinia

Jacobinia bodily - photophilous and heat-loving plant that can grow only in the rooms. In the summer it can not make the open air. In winter, the Jacobinia must be protected from drafts, summer - from direct sunlight. In the period of rapid growth - in the spring and summer - it needs much water, on hot days - spraying.

Jacobinia few-- hardier species prefers cool content. In the summer it can be taken on the balcony or take out to the country and put in a garden. In winter, this species grows well at 10-12 ° C.

To increase the humidity of the pot with the plant is useful to put in a pan filled with constantly moisturize gravel or expanded clay, or an inverted saucer set in a wide and low bowl with water.

Jacobinia spring transplant into fresh soil. The mixture can be formed independently of sod land, leaf, humus, peat and sand, taken in equal parts.

When transplanting perform pruning, so that the plant does not become bare at the bottom. Stems larger specimens cut almost to the ground, leaving no more than two pairs of leaves. This causes the active growth and branching. Pruning can be carried out in the autumn, after flowering. In this case, the Jacobinia should be kept at a temperature of 16 ° C and slightly reduce watering.

Propagation is by cuttings Jacobinia often. Remove cuttings from young shoots in spring. Shoot tips of up to 10 cm can take root in water or in a mixture of peat and sand in “rooting room” heated to 20 - 25 0C. Rooting occurs within two to three weeks.

Young plants seedlings into individual pots with several eggs, then you'll have a magnificent specimen. As the pinch to encourage branching shoot tips.

Fire Shades

In addition to the pink bodily there are varieties with other shades of colors - from orange to red. The flowers are very nice on the background of bright and large, up to 20 cm long, oblong-ovate leaves with a pointed tip.

Bicolor Campanula

In Jacobinia few-or Justice Ritstsini

(Jacobinia pauciflora), flowers appear singly in the leaf axils. Though they do not form a showy inflorescence, but differ in interesting color: red at the base and at the top - yellow.

Jacobinia bodily - the most popular type. She comes from Brazil, where it grows in tropical rain forests and along rivers. Blossoms Jacobian for several weeks from June to September. Following faded apical buds in the axils of the upper leaves blossom new.

Jacobinia - photophilous plant, but it can be put on screen, behind which is a tree or shrub. Her neighbors in the photo - more shade-tolerant plants - yucca, scented pelargonium, agave, dracaena. On the south window not forget to protect the Jacobinia of the direct sun.

Council

New plants are grown from cuttings. Large specimens occupy much space in the room, so the growers prefer every two years to grow new plants from cuttings.

ORCHIDACEAE

2012-08-20T07:57:00.004-07:00

ORCHIDACEAE

Orchid in the house - the maintenance and care

Grow an orchid house - not for the lazy, orchid require special care, but the hostess gives real magic. How do you properly include orchid and care for her.

Legend has it that the beautiful Venus, indulging in amorous pleasures, the shoe dropped. Shoes and the goddess of love turned into a delightful flower, symbolizing sexuality. This flower - orchid. At all times the orchid attributed magical properties of orchid petals and seeds cooked Love Potion.

Grow an orchid house - not for the lazy. This is not a cactus once a week watering. Orchid as any beauty requires reverent attitude and loving care, so beginning recommend orchid Phalaenopsis - with proper care, it blooms for about six months a year, and is best suited to the content in the home.

The content of orchids. Remember that the orchid - epiphyte. That is, in the wild it lives on other plants, usually in the trees. Therefore, it should not be planted in the ground, and in a special substrate. Substrate for orchids can be purchased already prepared, but you can prepare yourself. Take a dry pine bark, a good boil. Pat dry. Boil for a couple of days again. It is necessary to kill harmful insects. The finished crust cut into small pieces (pieces of size 1.5-2 cm). Mix in the chopped dried sphagnum moss. Substrate ready.

A few words about the pot for orchids. When choosing a pot for orchids, experts recommend a white or, even better, transparent - this does not heat up in the sun and will not overheat the roots of the plant. What is interesting, the best plastic pot - in a clay orchid roots are attached to the walls of its porous and therefore greatly injured during transplanting. In a pot holes have to be, because one of the main conditions being healthy orchids - excellent ventilation. In addition, there will be no stagnant water.

Potty trained. Now, to care for orchids was easier to be placed on the bottom of the drainage necessary for good water movement. As drainage can use small pieces of foam (0.5-1 cm). Drainage layer should take a little less than one-fourth of the pot, then three-quarters laid prepared substrate and place the orchid. In no case do not press down roots! Arranging a plant pot to fill up the remaining substrate.

And remember - transplanted orchid once every 3 years, not more.

Lighting orchids. Orchid - very photophilous plant. But at the same time she can not stand the bright midday sun. So a pot of beautiful best place on the west or east window. If this is not possible, provide additional light flower. Orchids love the heat, so the optimum temperature for their content 20 C-25 C.

Watering and fertilizing orchids. Watering orchids should be every 2-3 days in summer and winter - 1-2 times a week. Make sure that the substrate is completely dry out in between waterings. For irrigation use warm water having stood. But do not overdo it: frequent watering can lead to rotting of delicate roots. Do not forget about hydration. Every morning orchid spray warm water. Especially for orchids, which are located next to a radiator panels.

Interesting idea - from time to time arrange for orchids warm shower. It is believed that in this way we resemble plants of warm tropical showers, and, as noted by fans of the flower, after this procedure, they are fun to grow and bloom more actively. That's just not necessary to do this, when the orchid is blooming - after all house plants are weaker than in nature, and may reset the wonderful petals. Happens all the way - put a flower bath and pour a gentle stream of the shower for a few minutes. The water temperature should be about 40 C. Allow the water to drain and the "cool" flower cloth dab middle of a plant, so it does not rot.

In addition to regular watering, orchids need additional feed. Use specialized fertilizer for orchids. During the growth and prosperity of this have to do one day a week. At other times, enough 1 time per month.

Flowering orchids - is the most joyous moment in the life of any grower. Orchid flowers on aged 1.5-2.5 years. Wait for it to bloom it is very difficult. It would seem, to care for her hard, and she, ungrateful, does not want to flourish. You leave her alone! To produce a beautiful flower, orchid need a little stress. Accelerate flowering can be a sharp temperature drop. For example, to keep a capricious overnight at 18 C, and in the morning relocate to a warm room. The impetus for the flowering and can be a reduction in irrigation.

Orchids are considered demanding flowers. However, many species of orchids grow well and bloom at home in a pot on the windowsill, as well as other indoor plants, with good care. Care home orchids includes providing appropriate soil, light, watering, humidity, and fertilizer and transplant

Lighting for the home orchid

Lighting - a major factor care of orchids, which determines whether your orchid to bloom. With a lack of light orchid is not enough power for the normal cycle of vegetation, and at too intense lighting plant just consumed. General requirements for the light to the most popular varieties of orchids are in the first part of the article (see link above), but you should always follow the manufacturer's instructions. A sign of the lack of light in the orchid are dark green leaves (instead of a light, bright green or reddish in healthy plants), a sign of its surplus - yellowing of the leaves and the appearance of these brown or dry spots.

See also: Orchid Phalaenopsis: transplant

Watering orchids at home

Watering - not less important factor for the successful growth and flowering orchids. The vast majority of orchids in nature are never in the water, their roots can not tolerate stagnant moisture and salts dissolved in water. Each species of orchids need special conditions of irrigation. Phalaenopsis, Pafiopedilum, Odontoglossum and Cymbidium prefer slightly moist soil all the time, and the substrate for Ontsidiuma, Dendrobium and Cattleya should actually become dry between waterings. The intensity of watering orchids is influenced by such factors as temperature and dry air, light intensity, the phase of the growing season and the size of the orchid pot. In general, orchids are much more tolerant to dry than to waterlogging. To react to the lack of moisture orchid pseudobulbs wrinkled and withered, wrinkled leaves, and the waterlogging - yellowing leaves and soaked, blackened and decayed roots. Reinforced watering orchids require only the active growth phase, emission stems and flowering. Abbreviated - in a period of rest after flowering, and in the winter, when cool, and very little light.

Proper watering orchids is to put the plant in a pot in a bowl of warm water for 10-15 minutes, or intensively watered with warm water from the shower to the ground was wet and the water completely out of the drainage holes. In both cases, after watering the plant to hold onto a wire rack to rest of the water can drain out, but then again, you can put an orchid in a decorative planter.

Soil and pots for orchids

The main objective of the substrate and the pot for orchids, epiphyte - to maintain the plant in a vertical position to maintain a minimum of moisture around the roots, as well as easy to allow air to the roots. That is why the ground for epiphytic orchids usually does not contain any garden soil. Primer for epiphytes is a mixture of bark, natural fibers, coal, moss, granulated clay, cork, coarse sand with the addition of perlite or vermiculite. As pots for orchids, epiphytes fit baskets, nets, wire pots and other containers that can hold a substrate inside.

General rules for terrestrial orchids - substratum of these elements are well chopped, with a small amount of dry leaves and garden soil. This composition keeps the moisture and nutrients between waterings. Container for terrestrial orchid is better to use the most common plastic, transparent, with a lot of holes to drain the water (to hide the cheap plastic pot, keep in a beautiful orchid plant pots).

Novice collectors should buy ready-soil mixtures for orchids in the garden centers or nurseries. Soil mixtures with the package can be written, for example, for "Phalaenopsis" (for this and for other epiphytes) or "for Cymbidium" (for this and for other terrestrial orchids). With little experience in keeping orchids, you can try to make a ground for ground using a substrate for epiphytes with dry moss (to detain water) and garden soil.

Temperature maintenance of orchids

Popular types of orchids feel perfectly at home in the amplitude of daily temperature from +18 to +27 and night - from +13 to +24. A necessary condition for the flowering of most orchids is a difference of day and night temperatures. If your apartment is centrally heated, try to provide orchids cooler nights. Frequently carry orchids, accustomed to the heat in cooler conditions at night, works great as a distillation: plant may soon release a new flower spike.

Most orchids are quite capable of withstanding moderate deflection temperature. Do not forget that when the temperature should be reduced watering orchids, and with increasing - increase.

Humidity and air circulation

Humidity, the requisite majority of orchids, is 60-80%. If you have a home humidity below, use a tray with grills (available at garden centers). This pan is easy to do yourself, filling the bottom of the water and putting it on top of a thick layer of gravel or drainage stones. The main thing is that the roots of orchids and the container bottom never touched the water. In hot weather, orchids rejoice sprayed from a spray that should be done in the morning or afternoon, so that the plant has had time to dry before night.

Orchids can only benefit from a little air movement (but not from strong drafts!). If the room is not a good natural ventilation can be set and periodically on a small electric fan. It is particularly important for the movement of air in relation to cold-orchid (Cymbidium), who are forced in hot conditions. When using a fan, do not forget to increase watering.

Indoor orchid fertilizer

For flowering orchids need regular (on average, once every two weeks) and balanced feeding. The best thing - buy special fertilizer for orchids in the garden center and raise it in proportion on the package (for Miltonia decrease in the proportion of two). Experts of the Botanical Garden in New York recommended fertilizer for orchids with equal proportions of macro: NPK 20/20/20. Do not fertilize orchids special fertilizer for other plants, and reduce fertilizer during rest and during the cold season.

Repotting orchids home

Signal to that orchids require a transplant, is developed into a pot in the border width of the green part of the plant (and not above the surface of the root system of the pot!). Transplant should be performed after the orchid bloomed and rested a little before or at the beginning of a new period of growth. Carefully remove the orchid from the pot, taking care not to damage the roots (sometimes it has to cut the pot), shake off as much of the old soil from the roots, clean scissors, cut all dried or rotted roots. Take the pot for 1-2 more than the size, pour a little bit on the bottom of a suitable new substrate, gently place the orchid in a pot and cover with fresh top soil. Substrate should be free to fill the space between the roots of orchids. Gently push the substrate, but not compress it too. Do not cover the top of the soil (growing point) orchids, it must be open and positioned slightly below the skirting pot. Lightly moisten the soil and place the orchid in the shade for a few days.

PACHYSTACHYS

2012-08-20T07:52:00.004-07:00

PACHYSTACHYS

Shrubs and perennial, herbaceous plants. Propagation by cuttings. Light-loving plants. In winter, you want a short-term drop in temperature to 12 degrees.

General information about Pachystachys

Pachystachys, acanthus family.

Population: In the genus of 12 species.

Place of Origin: Tropical America, Peru.

Use: flowering.

The size of the plant: up to 1 m in height.

Height: very fast.

Flowering: March-October. Pachystachys bloom very willingly, but only on the young shoots. So plants are pruned regularly.

Varieties Pachystachys

Pachystachys yellow (Pachystachys lutea)

Evergreen shrub up to 1 m tall, with slender shoots. The leaves are opposite, up to 12 cm long, oval, pointed, with a clear veining. Inflorescence spicate, to 10 cm long, erect at the ends of the shoots. Bracts are bright orange-yellow. White flowers, up to 5 cm long, quickly falling. Corolla bilabiate.

Care and maintenance Pachystachys.

temperature (summer): 18 - 20

temperature (winter): 12 - 20

Lighting Pachystachys: Pachystachys loves a bright place with a bright diffused light and protected from direct sunlight in summer.

Pachystachys Watering: Abundant in spring and summer. Winter watered sparingly, letting the soil dry out well, but not allowing complete drying of the land.

Reproduction Pachystachys spring cuttings.

The best method of propagation Pachystachys - cuttings. After trimming is a lot of green cuttings, which can be used as seed. It's enough to land them in warm loose soil.

Stem cuttings - about 10-15 cm long. It is best to plant in one pot a few cuttings.

Humidity: Pachystachys like frequent and regular spraying in the spring and summer. Pachystachys can put on a tray with water, but the roots do not have to be in the water.

Transplant Pachystachys a: Transplanted Pachystachys every spring. Soil - 2 pieces of clay and sod land, 1 part peat, 1 part leaf, 1 part humus and one part sand. Good drainage is required.

Fertilizing Pachystachys a: Fertilizer fertilizing with liquid fertilizer for indoor plants from April to August every two weeks.

Cropping Pachystachys a: During transplant Pachystachys pruned to make the plant more bushes. Spring and can be shortened by cutting too long shoots, not to gain more flower buds.

After flowering cut faded bracts.

Pests and diseases Pachystachys a

Dry brown leaf tips:

- Because of the very dry and hot air. Pachystachys not like temperatures above 21 ° C.

- For lack of power, because the Pachystachys fast grower, needs regular fertilizing in spring and summer;

- Because of the lack of moisture - Pachystachys likes stagnant water, but drying earthen coma just unacceptable, the land should be slightly humidity.

The plant is extended, and the new leaves are small - because of the lack of light - Pachystachys not like direct sunlight in the summer, but the place for him to be bright.

In winter, the leaves fall off - if it's too cold, Pachystachys not tolerate temperatures below 12 ° C. And also, if on the contrary, too hot and dry in the room.

Pachystachys can often amazed mealy bugs, beetle and spider mites.

Special care special care: The drafts and drying of the soil plants shed their leaves.

In spring and summer bush must abundantly watered and sprayed with water at room temperature twice a day - morning and evening. Fertilizer complex mineral fertilizers should be done once a week. The fall to gradually reduce watering. In winter, the frequency of watering depends on the speed of drying earthen coma. The air temperature at the same time should be around 12 ° C. Spraying can be done once a week. If the air is too dry, then spray the plant to be more, or tips of the leaves turn yellow. In warmer months, the leaves brush should be washed with water at least once every two weeks. When planting is best to use a soil mix consisting of two parts of the leaf, two parts peat, one part humus soil and one part sand. Spring should be pruning shrubs. This will not only give it a beautiful shape, but also to clear the plant from old branches and leaves.

This plant is the color of the sun, the heat of the summer and for a long time will give you a good mood.

Blindingly bright exotics

Compact growth, densely spaced, amazingly bright blossoms and long flowering period - these qualities have allowed Pachystachys u compete well with other flowering plants.

In Russia Pachystachys (Pachystachys) became popular in the culture room no more than 10 years ago, went on sale compact low shape yellow section obtained in the Netherlands from the treatment slows the growth retardants. This plant - and the relative beloperone ruellii, long known flowering potted plants from the family of the acanthus.

Pachystachys blooms in early spring and long blooming, so a couple of plants in pots of bright winter blues perfectly disperses.

Care Secrets

Care Pachystachys om simple. It needs bright location throughout the year, but shade from direct sunlight on hot days. The optimum temperature 18-25 ° C content is lowered in the winter to 15 0C.

During the period of active growth from spring to autumn Pachystachys watered profusely. Winter - just as the drying of the top layer of the substrate in the pot. When drying of earthen clod Pachystachys shed their leaves.

Humidity maintained regular spraying and setting the pot with a plant in a tray with pebbles continuously humidified or expanded clay.

Propagation is by cuttings Pachystachys. Apical and medial stem cuttings are rooted in a mixture of peat and sand or peat moss and sand. They can take root and just in water with pieces of charcoal for disinfection.

During rooting cuttings should be as warm as possible, preferably in the lower teplichke heated to 25 ° C.

Rooted cuttings are planted in separate pots, and in the growth process a few times to get good pinch branched shrubs. Usually planted 3-5 cuttings in one pot to form a lush, blooming profusely instance.

With the dramatic growth, especially when flowering, floral required feeding liquid fertilizer 1razv 10 days.

POLIANTHES TUBEROSE

2012-08-20T07:47:00.004-07:00

POLIANTHES TUBEROSE

Tuberose has neither any relationship to the roses, although the name suggests it. This flower is primarily known for its flavor, for which he was, like all of perfumers.

Tuberose or Polianthes tuber came into the culture of Aztec Mexico. Locals call the plant ivory flower. But it is not only the name of the beautiful tuberose. In many languages, the name of this flower is underscored by its aroma, especially at night.

In Europe, the flower came only in the 17th century and has won a place of honor in the garden of Versailles, Louis XIV. Then tuberose spread to the rest of Europe. In areas where the climate does not allow the plant to maintain an open ground, it landed in the winter garden.

In the city of Grasse, until recently, produced up to 20 tons of oil tuberose, and when you consider that one liter is made of tons of tuberose blossoms, one can imagine a giant plantation plants covering the soil around the capital of the world of perfume.

Tuberose, or Polianthes (Polyanthus) family Amaryllidaceous - undeservedly forgotten flower enjoyed earlier in Russia were very popular and used for distillation, and in southern regions - for growing and wintering in the open.

Rhode Polianthes includes 13 species, native to Mexico and the island of Trinidad, so low temperature affected tuberose.

Tuberose - herbaceous perennial tuber bulbous plant with erect leafy stems and broadly linear leaves. Its flowers with thick wax-like petals are collected in inflorescence brush, fruit - capsule. Propagated tuberose tubers and often the children, at least - the seeds. It can be propagated by cuttings and - shoots that grew from lateral buds tuber.

Tuberose is beloved by perfumers and growers. In our country, growing of this plant is difficult climate. It was therefore decided in areas where the climate is more detrimental to this capricious plants grow tuberose in two stages.

The first stage is planting flowers in pots. This is done in January - March, depending on the entire same climate. The longer the winter, the earlier the bulb should be planted in pots. In this case, the neck should not get out of the soil mix 1 cm above the first time to extend a sunny day, you need to keep potted plants under artificial lights.

In May, after reducing the risk of frost, the plants are planted in the open ground. Before this flower treated with a solution or similar floral kornevina stimulants. In the south, tuberose can be planted directly in the open ground, but at first kept under wrap.

Water the flower in the dry climate of 3 times a week, but the overflow is not desirable. To the rapid flowering of tuberose to use feed for flowering plants. This is done 3-4 times per season. With an excess of nitrogen in fertilizers can occur lodging of plants, and the attack of pests (mites, slugs, etc.).

20-25 days after the start of flowering stalk. This process is accompanied by a strong odor. But because of the capriciousness of the flower and tuberose climate center band is not always in bloom. If it does not need to dig up the plant and put in a pot. At home, 80% of the plants constitute the buds and give the beauty of its bloom.

Tuberose bulbs before the frost to dig and wash treated with special disinfectant solution. After which they were dried and placed into the box, and covered with sawdust. Keep a box with bulbs need at 12-18 degrees.

Can reproduce tuberose corms, less seeds and layering.

In our country, many growers grow tuberose flower as a room. Once a year, a half-meter plant gives its owners hand fragrant flowers. But we must remember that in a locked room tuberose fragrance can cause headaches.

Tuberose blossoms decorate any flower bed. This plant will look great in a container garden. Neighbor can be a tuberose jasmine bush. These two flavors have long been considered the benchmark in perfumery. If the background of tuberose jasmine plant, you can get not only the well-known combination of flavors, but also a visual representation of this combination.

Tuberose tuber or tuber Polianthes (P. tuberosa) is used for distillation, planting winter gardens, as well as for ground planting in flowerbeds and around the lawn, in containers. Tuberose has a bulbous, brown film-coated bulbs, which form an abundance of kids. Suitable for flowering and forcing tuberose tubers must be large (more than 2 cm in diameter) and have a high (not flat) shape. Slender stalk of tuberose tuber grows up to 30 cm bright green leaves width of 1.5 cm and a length of up to half a meter. Its very fragrant, located on a high spike pairs flowers (up to 6 cm in diameter) are collected in a loose spike-like inflorescences. Original form of tuberose has white flowers, from selection were obtained form with double cream, pink, lilac, purple flowers. The intensity of the aroma of tuberose flowers varies throughout the day. Number of flowers (about 30 or more) depending on the size of the tuber characteristics of the landing and Machinery. The flowers bloom in the inflorescence upwards and each flower stores decorative and fragrance 3-4 days. Inflorescence generally decorative 3 weeks, and it's worth the vase life of up to 2 weeks.

Corms and kids tuberose planted in open ground (on average - to a depth of 2-3 cm, kids - smaller) in May, and in the southern regions, and at film shelters - earlier in April. For planting of tuberose desirable well-drained, fertile soil. Kids plant the tubers are separated from adults. When planting the tubers do not place too often (at least 5 cm between rows in furrows 15 cm or more), because each tuber (and the baby as well) will give many children. Time emergence of tuberose (usually a month) depending on temperature and soil moisture; decomposition of soil organic matter (manure, straw, etc.) to produce heat faster germination. For early spring planting in pots tuberose tubers can germinate in March in a warm place (25 degrees), placing them in damp moss. Pots filled with substrate (turf, greenhouse soil, humus, sand in equal parts) and put the sprouted tubers, grown in open ground plants are transplanted after the spring frosts. During the season, tuberose fed 3-4 times, excess nitrogen causes stretching and lodging of plants, provoking the emergence of pests (mites, slugs, etc.) and diseases.

Flowering early adult tubers planted tuberose starts in July, and later planted - held in August-September (in warm climates bloom continues in October), after flowering tuberose is not watered. Some good kids who grew up in a season of tuberose can also bloom in the year of planting. Digging with their root balls and place in a pot, a chance to get tuberose flowers in the conservatory in December and January.

Outdoors tubers usually mature in late September, and their dug in October (after the first major frost.) With prolonged cold snap with temperatures below -2 degrees Celsius tuberose tubers can vymerznut.

Excavated plants dried at a high temperature (about 40 degrees), with ventilation. Then, the dry leaves are cut, leaving a "stub" of about 2 cm, the roots are cut to 0.5 cm Babe is not separated from the mother tuber, that it is not dried out during storage. Finally dried and stored in the autumn planting of tuberose at room temperature, then pour it in dry sand and clean up in the spring cool, dry place with a temperature of 10 degrees. In areas with mild climate tuberose tuber good winters in the open field.

Tuberose varieties, or broad-Polianthes (P. platyphillus) has broad glossy leaves and drooping single flowers (3 cm) with a weak odor. Blossoms in the second half of April for a month.

Fashion at the flowers capricious and changeable, it often goes in a circle. In the XIX century, tuberose were loved and popular. Interest in this almost forgotten color returns.

Tuberose, or Polianthes tuber (Polyanthus tuberosa), from the family Amaryllidaceous are from Central America. Plant heat-loving, open field only winters in the south. In our area corms before frosts to dig and store in a dry, cool place (temperature 15-20 °).

From planting to flowering tuberose is 5-6 months, and in the maturation of follicles takes time, so start to germinate in the room early in February. And it is better not to do it in the light, but, for example, in a box with moistened moss at 25 °. Once the roots and shoots of hatch, plant bulbs in pots full of light fertile soil. In this case, in any case not sleep tops bulbs.

When the shoots reached 2-3 cm, expose pots on a sunny windowsill. At first, watered sparingly and only warm water when tuberose large leaves begin to unfold, irrigation increases. Before June pots hold in the greenhouse, and with the onset of heat stable stand them in the garden.

I tried to plant pots of tuberose in soil in full sun - they transplant well tolerated. In the flower garden plants effectively in small groups in the middle ground. Generally, flower arrows do not need support, it's not gladioli, which under the weight of large inflorescence stems bend. Tuberose courtliness planting to a depth of 2-3 cm pretty tight (5 × 10 cm).

Nevertheless, the main landing tuberose in my pots, since the cold weather they are easy to place in the greenhouse. Do not forget that this is an extremely heat-loving plant, and is very sensitive to cool. In the summer I watch that the edges of bulbs was not kids. If they just do not break down, it will stop at the flower shoot growth, flowering and effort is not enough.

Fertilize once a month tuberose mullein, it promotes good flowering. But it so happens that sometimes forget to water and weed the plants, and they are-though henna, grow and blossom gently itself in July and August. By the way, no attacks of pests and diseases, these flowers are not exposed. This flexibility allows the culture to grow it, even those who appear only in the country for the weekend.

Blooming in the ground can be very long - up to a month. When on long stems (80-100 cm) the buds begin to expand, turn white, and disclosed, I have a holiday. I can spend hours admiring delicate snow-white double flowers, breathing in their mouthwatering wonderful aroma. Each flower - like a small masterpiece of porcelain. The largest in the direction - lower - up to 4 inches in diameter.

All potted tuberose cut on bouquets and give to friends; they are more than two weeks.

Usually dig bulbs before the first frost. By this time, the leaves are already dry up. First planting material was dried at room temperature, before placing the deposit withstand a few days at the stove at 40-45 °.

PLUMERIA

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PLUMERIA

Plumeria (common name Frangipani) is a genus of flowering plants of the family that includes Dogbane: the Apocynaceae. It contains 7-8 species of mainly deciduous shrubs and small trees. They are native to Central America, Mexico, the Caribbean, and South America as far south as Brazil but have been spread throughout the world's tropics.

Plumeria is related to the Oleander, Nerium oleander, and both possess an irritant, rather similar to that of Euphorbia. Contact with the sap may irritate eyes and skin. Each of the separate species of Plumeria bears differently shaped alternate leaves, with distinct form and growth habits. The leaves of P. alba are quite narrow and corrugated, whereas leaves of P. pudica have an elongated shape and glossy, dark-green color. P. pudica is one of the everblooming types with non-deciduous, evergreen leaves. Another species that retains leaves and flowers in winter is P. obtusa; though its common name is "Singapore," it is originally from Colombia.

Plumeria flowers are most fragrant at night in order to lure sphinx moths to pollinate them. The flowers have no nectar, and simply dupe their pollinators. The moths inadvertently pollinate them by transferring pollen from flower to flower in their fruitless search for nectar.

Plumeria species may be easily propagated from cuttings of leafless stem tips in spring. Cuttings are allowed to dry at the base before planting in well-drained soil. Cuttings are particularly susceptible to rot in moist soil.

Plumeria - tropical flowering tree, sometimes called frangipani, family (Apocynaceae). This is a traditional plant tropical park.

On thick succulent branches are leathery leaves patterned veins radiating from a central. On the tips of the shoots - large inflorescences of fragrant flowers with five petals. Flowers exude a scent that resembles the scent of citrus, jasmine, spices, gardenia. Pink tone edges to the center of the flower fades to give way to the middle of the flower orange-yellow coloring. Under petals - visible corolla tube. But beware of inadvertently injure Plumeria - once released from the damaged area poisonous milky sap white.

In the tropics, plumeria reaches a height of 5 m, while the parks do not give her to grow taller than a man.

In room culture is grown only species P. rubra. Sharpened at the ends of the leaves are long, oval, strongly scented flowers are white or pink.

Location

Bright diffused light with some direct sun light. Moderate temperatures, winter is not below 16 °.

Lighting

Bright light.

Watering

Moderate, in the dormant period (from October to March), watering should be reduced.

Air humidity

Moderate.

Humidity: Additional information

In the spraying is not needed.

Care

Spring fertilizing agents with more nitrogen, and later - phosphorus. Fertilize the soil must be every 2-3 weeks. Regularity direct proportional fertilizing plant growth.

Flowering is at the ends of the branches, which developed in the current year. Take this into consideration when forming the crown. After flowering shoots branching below inflorescence.

Reproduction - cuttings

When take cuttings

Plumeria can be propagated by cuttings at any time of year. It is best to take cuttings in the fall or winter when the plant is dormant. Cuttings stored for months. For successful establishment, a relatively high temperature - you can use a lower heat.

What should be the cuttings

Cut the tops of the branches, but the stalks must be green, and quite stiff, greyish. The optimum size of a handle - 25 cm Try not to use too long shanks. Before flowering plant can still grow 30 centimeters, and a long thin stick will be unstable and unsightly.

How to cut the stalk

Cut the stalk at 45 degrees. A diagonal cut will provide a great surface for the formation of roots. If there are leaves on the handle - it is better to cut them all. Flowers, however, you can leave, if they have a branch.

Allow to dry for a cut of at least 2 weeks in a warm, dry, ventilated area. If the graft was cut in the winter, you can wait until spring - cutting perfectly preserved for a long time. However, it is not necessary, and under favorable conditions (see below) to root plumeria at any time - at home.

How to plant

Before planting useful process for rooting hormone slice and protivofungusnymi sredstavami to prevent rotting. Should handle only the lower 2 cm of the cutting - the roots are formed only around the cut.

Take the pot for rooting around 2-3 liters of capacity, depending on the size of the cutting.

Mix for rooting should consist of three layers:

• The bottom layer - well-drained potting mix rich in organic matter. Suitable traditional mix for houseplants based on peat, mixed with perlite and small pieces of bark. Prerequisite, as with any planting of tropical plants - a mixture of good drainage and the ability to retain moisture.

• The middle layer - perlite or sand.

• The top layer - the same as the bottom.

Sprinkle the bottom, rich in organic layer in the pot. Sprinkle on top of the middle layer - perlite or sand. Place the cutting firmly in the middle layer, and then add the top layer. It is important to firmly graft was fixed and shifted in the rooting process. Young roots are very delicate and easy to damage the slightest movement of the cutting. You can use the extra support that you assigned to stalk and top it with a layer of stones, pebbles. If there is a cat or a dog - take extra precautionary measures, without someone to adjust your plumeria for carding back. :-)

Root development

In the process of establishment of water should be minimal. However, do not bring the soil to full issyhaniya. Approximately 350 ml of water in a week - the optimal number, will not develop until the plant root system. Lighting during establishment should be as bright and best of all - the bright sun. It is desirable to use a lower heat. Energy derived from the top (from the sun) and the bottom (from the surface on which you place the pot) stimulate rooting. Education indicator roots - is the growth of the leaves. Education colors - not an indicator of rooting! Stalk can produce buds, but that does not mean that it is rooted. Only intensive development of leaves shows that constructing successfully. On average, the rooting is between 45 to 75 days after planting. Frangipani young roots are very fragile. Even when the plant is well established, do not hold it by the barrel!

When the bloom?

Plumeria can begin to bloom in the winter, spring, even before the leaves. However, as already noted, this is not an indication of the formation of root system. Wait for new leaves - that they are the indicators of the roots. Some cut flowers to keep the power plants to form roots.

- Seeds

Plumeria grow from seed is very funny, because plants grown from seed are very different from their parents. Frangipani seeds - as a result of self-pollination and cross-pollination. To attract insects and birds use nectar. Here are the stages of germination of seeds Plumeria:

1. Day before planting, soak the seeds frangipani and leave in a warm place.

2. Prepare the soil for planting and pour it.

3. Plant the seed so that you can see the wing, and lightly press down on the ground around the seed.

4. Keep on the sunny side of the pot (and do not forget that the soil should be slightly moist). Seedlings will appear in 7-30 days.

In the first two years of frangipani seedlings are very demanding to leave. During all the time they need to be transplanted twice in a larger container. Be sure to nitrogen fertilization. Also have to take care of the timely application of insecticides. For a young frangipani needs sunlight for 6 hours each day. In the spring, from April, plumeria can be taken out. Make sure that the first frost does not damage the plants. In summer, at very high temperatures, plumeria can be watered every other day. In the third year of life the plant can be up to 1 m in height. If necessary, Plumeria planted in a container larger. The three-year seedling can bloom in summer.

Transplantation

Every two years, in the spring. Substrate of a mixture of 2 parts of sod land and one part peat moss, humus and sand.

Possible difficulties

Spider mites, rust. In general it can be noted that the plumeria poisonous enough to not be afraid of pests.

Useful properties

Latex plumerii poisonous! Do not allow latex to skin and mucous membranes. After contact with the juice - juice rinse with water.

STANHOPEA

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STANHOPEA

This unpretentious orchid - a real exotic rarity. Its blossoms sprout through the substrate, and the flowers are dazzling intricate patterns and shapes.

All 40 species of Stanhopea grow in the mountains of Mexico, Peru, Colombia and Brazil as epiphytes on the trunks and branches of trees. In their stems they store nutrients and water needed for survival in the dry season.

Containers.

Grow Stanhopea only in plastic pots with slots and holes in the walls and on the bottom, or in baskets of pine and oak blocks or bamboo sticks. Any utensils should have enough holes in the bottom of the exit stems.

Substrate. For these epiphytic orchids use loose and nutrient substrate. You can buy ready-made substrate composed of bark, peat fiber and foam chips, replacing sphagnum moss.

Transplant. One-pot every 2 years when the substrate is compacted, will slowly dry out and allow air to the bad roots.

Place. Stanhopea grow well in warm and cool rooms on a light place, but shade from direct sunlight.

Watering. Pour stanhopea have defended tap water at room temperature.

Feeding. Fertilize only in the period of growth at each watering with liquid fertilizer for orchids in low concentrations.

Secrets of Success

Stanhope’s care directly related to the time of year. Is it hard to grow at home these amazing flowers?

Not at all! Stanhopea unpretentious and does not require special conditions. They do not need room greenhouse, heating and fluorescent light. However, taking care of them, you need to follow some rules and features of their seasonal development.

And what are the characteristics of seasonal development stanhopea?

These orchids have a distinct winter dormancy when irrigation is sharply reduced, eye on the pseudo bulbs, and moisten the substrate only after they begin to shrink. In the summer and autumn during active growth, stanhopea abundantly moistened by dipping baskets in water. Summer baskets with useful stanhopea make the fresh air and hang them in the trees.

Can anyone make a substrate for these orchids?

Yes, many fans themselves prepare a mixture of different natural materials - pure peat moss, fern root, fallen leaves.

Horned bull

Stanhopea mackerel (S. tigrina). View from the largest, up to 20 cm in diameter, the flowers, with the most bizarre and colorful. For scary horns on his lip and a rare brownish shade flower parts Mexicans call this view "orchid-bull."

Council

Stanhopea very useful spray of fine spray. This replaces the night dew, usually in their home country.

Flowering contrary

Stanhopea - the most unusual in the way of flowering orchids and flower structure. Stanhopea form stalks pointing down. In nature, they pass through the substrate, which grow and hang freely, forming buds. In the culture of the way through the flower stalks lattice baskets in which they grow.

Fantastic vanilla

Inflorescence stanhopea have between 3 to 10 large (10-20 cm in diameter) flowers with a very strong aroma. Lip (mean petal lobes) is divided into three parts, the middle one has two large horn-shaped processes that are unique to stanhopea. Exotic flowers look complements bizarre coloring - various patterns of dots, stripes and spots of various sizes and shapes.

Stunning long flowering

The flowering of a flower stanhopea - 3-4 days, but the plant has consistently creates new flower stalks, and the total period of its flowering takes 2-3 months. The rooms are more common following types.