Beyond The Kitchen Wall

Potage Esau - Red Lentil Soup

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Wed, 20 Jan 2010 15:00:00 +0000

I like to refer to the time period between January 15th and March 1st as "Deepest, Darkest Winter". The holidays are over, and what was desirable around the end of December - snow, winter chill, etc... - is no longer so appealing. Winter has taken a firm hold and the temperatures have plunged. The snow isn't fluffy and charming, it's heavy and dirty. Days are short, though slowly lengthening. Unless you are into winter sports, all you want to do is stay inside where it is warm.

That is why this is the best time of year to pull out your favorite, hearty soup recipes. One of my all-time favorites is a Mediterranean spiced red lentil soup. Known as Potage Esau after the biblical character who sold his birthright to his brother, Jacob, for just one bowl of this delicious soup/potage/stew. There are many recipes for this soup that use different types of lentils, but the bible describes the soup/stew as red. So red lentils it is! Remember that tomatoes were not known to the ancients of the Near East, but red lentils were. This is a great vegetarian soup!

Potage Esau
Serves 6 to 8

Olive oil for sauteing
1 medium Spanish onion, chopped
3 medium carrots, diced small
3 celery stalks, diced small
1 fennel bulb, diced small
3 garlic cloves, chopped
3 cups red lentils
6 to 8 cups water
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
1/2 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

Heat a large pot over medium-high heat and lightly coat the bottom with olive oil. Add the onion, carrots, celery, fennel, and garlic. Season with salt and pepper, and saute until the vegetables begin to lightly brown. Do this in batches if needed. Add 2 cups of the lentils, 6 cups of water, the coriander, cumin, and lemon juice. Cook until the lentils begin to fall apart, about 15 to 20 minutes. After 15 to 20 minutes, check for seasoning, and add the remaining lentils. Cook for an additional 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, add the chopped cilantro and parsley. Add more water if the soup is too thick, and adjust seasoning. Simmer for an additional 5 minutes and serve.

Spanish Almond Cake for The Festival of Trees (Tu B'Shvat)

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Thu, 14 Jan 2010 15:00:00 +0000

This year, the Jewish Tree Festival, Tu B'Shvat, falls on January 30th. Think of it as the forerunner of Arbor Day. It is a minor holiday that is celebrated by the planting of trees, especially in Israel.

Throughout the world, Jews eat foods on Tu B'Shvat that are characteristic of the land of Israel, especially the seven types of fruits and grains listed in Deuteronomy 8:8. However, any fruit or nut that comes from a tree can be enjoyed as part of the holiday celebration. It's a great way to remind ourselves that Springtime, with its promise of new life, is not far off.

Here is a recipe for a very traditional Spanish (Galician) almond cake. It would fit perfectly into any holiday celebration. Also note that it contains mostly tree related ingredients: olive oil, lemon, cinnamon, and almonds. It also contains wheat which is one of the grains listed in Deuteronomy 8:8.

Spanish Almond Cake (Galicia)
Serves 8

olive oil and flour for pan
4 large eggs
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
3 cups almond flour
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
confectioners' sugar for dusting

Center oven rack and preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Oil and flour a 9 inch spring-form cake pan.

In a large bowl, combine the eggs, lemon zest, cinnamon, granulated sugar, and salt. Whisk together until foamy. Add the almond flour and mix well. Add the flour and mix until just incorporated. Be sure that the batter is smooth and that there is no dry flour remaining towards the bottom.

Transfer the batter to the prepared pan and bake for about 30 minutes, or until a knife inserted into the center comes out clean.

Remove the cake from the oven and allow to cool for 10 minutes on a wire rack. After 10 minutes, carefully run a knife around the edge of the cake to be sure that it is not sticking to the pan. Remove the collar and allow the cake to cool to room temperature. When cool, invert the cake and remove the pan bottom.

Place cake upright on a serving plate. Dust the top with confectioners' sugar.

Tabyit (T'beet) - Flavors of Iraqi Jewish Exile

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Mon, 04 Jan 2010 16:00:00 +0000

The history of Jews in Iraq can be traced back to the Babylonian Exile in 586 B.C.E.. After Nebuchadnezzar, King of Babylon (part of modern-day Iraq), destroyed Judah (Judea) and the first Temple in Jerusalem, he decided to put an end to the Jewish state once and for all. He took the most influential citizens into captivity back in Babylon, and left only the poorest citizens behind. The result of this was the growth of a thriving Babylonian Jewish community, even more magnificent than that of ancient Palestine. Babylon would become the focus of Judaism for more than a thousand years*.

Babylonia became the seat of Jewish learning and wisdom. Great academies of Jewish learning were founded by the great Rabbis who would eventually be the first to write down the Mishnah (Jewish Oral Law), and its commentary, the Talmud.

For the most part, the Jewish community did well in this part of the world. Jews became high ranking officials in the government, owned businesses, and enjoyed peaceful relations with the native population. There were times of strife. As is usually the case, people became jealous of the Jews and their abilities to become successful and wealthy. Things became worse after Babylonia was conquered by Sassanid Persians in 226 C.E.*.

The rise of Islam opened a new chapter in the lives of Babylonian Jews. It started well. Jews were taxed along with all other non-Muslims, but for the most part they were treated well and maintained their high positions. As time went on though, persecutions became more frequent. There were good times and bad. It wasn't until the Ottoman Turks gained final control of the area in 1638 that life for the Jews became secure*. Over time however, centralized Turkish control waned, and the situation for the Jews worsened. The Jewish population continued to grow.

This brings us to modern Iraq. After gaining its independence (with Jewish support) in 1932, Iraq started out as a safe place for Jews. The first Iraqi Minister of Finance, Sir Sassoon Eskel, was Jewish. Jews also played important roles in setting up other areas of the fledgling Iraqi Government*. Jewish and Arab Iraqis lived and worked together, and saw themselves as one people.

It wasn't until the mid 1930's and through the 1940's that trouble started. That trouble was fueled by Nazi propaganda (Iraq had ties to the Axis powers) and the ongoing conflict in the Palestinian Mandate. On August 27, 1934 life for the Jews of Iraq, the Jews of ancient Babylon, changed forever. On this day laws were enacted that dismissed Jews from the government, set up quotas in colleges and universities, and made it illegal to teach Jewish history and Hebrew in Jewish schools! It was the beginning of the end. On June 1st and 2nd, 1941 a pogrom broke out in Baghdad and approximately 200 (probably more) Jews were openly murdered, and another 2,000 were injured. The founding of the state of Israel in 1948 caused even more problems for the Jews of Iraq, and by 1951 Israel instituted Operation Ezra and Nehemiah to bring Iraqi Jews to the safety of the nascent Jewish state*.

Things got progressively worse over the years to the point where a population of well over 120,000 Jewish Iraqis has dwindled to a population, at last count, of 8. 8 Jews left in what was once the greatest center of Jewish civilization. And it is all because of HATE!!!

HATE!!!

Hatred and lies. The usual story when it comes to the Jews. Pure, unabashed, organic hate. It's despicable.

Hatred against the Jews is still rampant in Iraq today, as it is in all of the Islamic world. The following video was recorded in Iraq on February 14, 2003. In it a shameful Imam calls for the genocide of the Jewish people. He is ridiculous, and is condemned by his own words. It is almost easy to dismiss this as the insane ravings of a lunatic, but if you close your eyes and listen, it is strikingly reminiscent of Hitler at Nuremberg.

This is obscene. This is a mark of shame against all of humanity.

What shall we do?

How about trying to learn the truth about people, who they are and what they believe? The best way that I know how to do that is with food. When you sit down to eat with someone, when you nourish yourself as they do, you are given the opportunity to glimpse the beauty of their humanity. This is the beauty of the table. This is why fast food is such a bad idea - there is no opportunity to commune with our fellows. The table is communion.

In order to get to know the Iraqi Jewish community better, here is a recipe for one of their best known dishes - Tabyit. It is spiced chicken stuffed with meat and rice, that is cooked with more rice in a spicy tomato sauce. This dish is traditionally served for lunch on the Sabbath. It is one of the great, slow cooked dishes that are hallmarks of Jewish cuisine. As kindling fire and cooking are activities that are not permitted on the Sabbath, this dish is begun on Fridays before sundown. It is then allowed to continue cooking in a very low oven for 14 - 18 hours! nowadays, slow cookers are also used for these types of dishes. The final result is a very tender and flavorful dish. These types of dishes are known as hamin (pronounced Ha'meen). They include dishes such as Eastern European cholent and North African dafina.

The Tabyit is served with other traditional dishes upon returning from the synagogue on Saturday afternoon.

Tabyit
Serves 8

4 to 5 tablespoons olive oil
1 large, whole chicken
3 1/2 cups basmati rice
1 pound ground chuck
1 28 ounce can diced tomatoes
3 teaspoons tomato paste
1 medium onion, finely diced
2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons ground cardamom
1 tablespoon ground allspice
salt and pepper to taste
cayenne pepper to taste
3 cups water

Rinse the chicken thoroughly, and pat dry. Blend the cinnamon, cardamom, and allspice together. Season the chicken inside and out with salt, pepper, and half of the spice blend. Set aside.

To make the filling:

Wash and soak 1 1/2 cups of basmati rice for 30 minutes. After soaking, drain the rice and put it into a large mixing bowl. Add the meat and half of the diced tomatoes with their liquid. Season with salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper to taste. I recommend 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne. Mix everything together. Add half of remaining spice mix and blend thoroughly.

Stuff the filling into the cavity of the chicken. Don't be afraid to pack it tightly. After stuffing, either truss the cavity closed, or tie the legs together in such a way that it somewhat seals the cavity (like a Thanksgiving turkey).

To cook:

Place a large, heavy, non-stick pot or a stove-safe slow cooker insert over medium high heat. Add the olive oil. When hot, add the chicken, breast side down. Allow to brown as best as possible, and then turn it over. Continue in this manner until the chicken is fairly brown all over. Remove the chicken and set aside.

Add onion to hot oil and saute until translucent. Add remaining tomatoes and tomato paste. Stir to dissolve the tomato paste. Season with salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste. I recommend 2 teaspoons salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne. Add remaining spice mix. Add 3 cups of water and bring to a boil.

In the mean time, wash and soak the remaining rice for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, drain the rice and add to the pot. Add the chicken back to the pot positioning it so that it sits on its back in the middle of the pot. Bring the pot back to a boil, cover, and immediately place into a 200 degree Fahrenheit oven. Allow to cook slowly for at least 12 hours, but it can be cooked up to 18 hours. Alternately, place insert into slow cooker and cook on low for 18 hours.

To serve:

Carefully remove chicken from the pot. It will fall apart, but try to be gentle. Place on a platter and surround with the rice. A crispy crust should have formed on the bottom of the pot. Place this on top of the rice and be sure that everyone gets a piece as this is the best part. Serve with a simple salad to round out the meal.

Chocolate Chip Hazelnut Cookies

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Mon, 28 Dec 2009 16:58:00 +0000

You can never have enough cookie recipes in your arsenal. I love the all-American Chocolate Chip Cookie, but sometimes they can become boring. This is a fun variation on the classic Chocolate Chip Cookie. The addition of ground hazelnuts gives this chewy cookie a Praline-like character. They are so good, that I bet that you can't eat just one!

Chocolate Chip Hazelnut Cookies
Makes 3 dozen cookies

1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter
1 cup light brown sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 1/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup hazelnut flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 cups best quality semisweet chocolate chips

Position oven racks to center of oven. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line 3 baking sheets with parchment paper or use Silpats.

Mix flour, hazelnut flour, baking powder, and salt together using a whisk.

Using a mixer, cream butter and sugars together until light and fluffy. Scrape sides and bottom of the bowl. Add eggs 1 at a time and beat in thoroughly. Add the vanilla, mix in, and scrape the bowl again.

Add flour mixture and blend on low until just incorporated. Add the chocolate chips and blend until they are well distributed. Allow dough to rest in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours, or overnight.

After dough has rested, scoop out 1/4 cup portions, roll into a ball, then divide the ball in half. Place each half on prepared baking pans until you have 12 cookies per pan. Bake for 14 to 15 minutes. For best results, bake only 1 pan at a time. When finished, remove cookies to a cooling rack. Best served warm, but these cookies will keep for a week in a covered container.

Heavenly Challah

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Wed, 09 Dec 2009 20:40:00 +0000

Challah is a most wonderful bread! Not only is it used by Jewish People in their weekly Sabbath Ritual, it also makes the world's best French Toast! The rich egg dough is very Brioche-like, but not quite as delicate. It is also easier to make. There are many recipes for Challah. Some use dairy products, some do not. Since Challah is part of the Sabbath Dinner, where typically meat is served, it is traditional to make a Challah that is dairy free. This is in keeping with the Biblical command to not mix meat and milk. Also, it is customary to make 2 loaves of Challah to symbolize the double portion of Manna that the Israelites gathered in the desert prior to the Sabbath, as no work was to be done on the Sabbath. Modern Challah, which bears little resemblance to Manna, is actually an adaptation of a rich, braided, egg-laden, Central European/German Bread that is a relative of Brioche. The Ashkenazic Jews of this area adapted it as their Sabbath loaf because of its fine richness - a far cry from their heavy, rustic, daily loaves.

Challah
Makes 2 large loaves

6 1/2 to 7 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon active dry yeast
1 1/2 cups warm water
4 large eggs, at room temperature
1/3 cup sugar
2 tablespoons honey
scant 1/2 cup neutral flavored oil (such as canola)
2 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

In the bowl of a standing mixer, combine 2 cups of the flour, the yeast, and the warm water. Mix together until all of the flour is moistened. Cover and let the yeast proof in a warm place for 1 hour. After 1 hour, the flour mixture should be active and bubbly. This is the starter sponge. While the sponge is forming, lightly oil a baking sheet and put aside.

Add all of remaining ingredients to the sponge, except the remaining flour, and begin mixing with the dough hook attachment. Once the mixture begins to come together, begin adding flour until a smooth dough is formed that does not stick to the bowl. You may not need all of the flour, but you will probably need most of it. Once the dough begins to pull away from the bowl, increase the mixer speed until the dough begins to slap against the sides of the bowl. If the dough begins to stick at all, add more flour 1 tablespoon at a time. You want the dough to be a cohesive whole that freely moves around the bowl, slapping loudly. Knead in this manor for 15 minutes. (Your mixer will get hot, so don't worry. Also, you will want to hold on to the mixer during this process so that it does not "walk" off the counter!)

After 15 minutes, cover the dough, and allow to rest in a warm place for at least 2 hours. After 2 hours, place dough an a very lightly floured surface and divide into 8 equal portions. Roll each of the 8 portions into thick "snakes" about 10 inches long. Each loaf will be made of 4 of these "snakes".

To Braid The Challah:
1 2 3 4
Line up 4 of the dough "snakes" in a row like this, llll. Begin braiding in the middle by placing piece 4 over piece 3. Then, place piece 2 over piece 4. Finally place piece 1 UNDER piece 4. Repeat. Continue in this manor until you reach the end. Then, gather all of the ends together and tuck them under the loaf. Flip loaf around, and repeat exactly on the other side until you reach the other end. Again, tuck the gathered ends under the loaf. Transfer braided loaf to prepared baking pan. Braid second loaf, and place on same pan, leaving enough room for the challah to rise. Cover loosely with plastic wrap, leave in a warm place, and allow to rise for 2 1/2 to 3 hours. Begin preheating oven to 350 degrees.

Before the loaves are baked , you must egg wash them to give a shiny appearance. You will need:

1 egg
1 teaspoon water
sesame or poppy seeds, optional

Whisk egg and water together thoroughly. Gently brush loaves with egg wash, being careful to cover all exposed surfaces without allowing egg to pool on baking sheet around loaves. Sprinkle with seed garnish if desired.

Bake in middle of preheated oven for 40 to 45 minutes. When fully baked, Challah will sound hollow when thumped on the bottom, and will be a rich mahogany brown color.

Remove immediately from baking pan and allow to cool completely on a wire cooling rack.
Best enjoyed fresh (of course), but it will keep for 1 week if wrapped tightly.

Spiced Pumpkin Madeleines

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Mon, 23 Nov 2009 22:00:00 +0000

Wow! What a time of transition it has been! Sorry that I have been away for a while, but there have been many changes going on at Beyond The Kitchen Wall. The biggest change was moving from the Estate in Glencoe, Illinois to a temporary house in Wilmette, Illinois. It was hard to leave my Kitchen and Garden behind, but that's life... I also managed to squeeze a fantastic honeymoon to Paris in there as well. It was great to return to the City of Lights after many years. Paris is magical and renewed my passions for French Cuisine and the French People.

That being said, it is time to get back to business. And my business is FOOD! I have been working on many recipes in my absence and hope to share them with you in the coming weeks.

We are at the threshold of the Holiday Season, Thanksgiving is this Thursday in the U.S. I wanted to share a recipe that features an ingredient that figures very prominently in the Thanksgiving celebration and during the Holiday Season as a whole, namely Pumpkin. I love pumpkin and am a die hard pumpkin pie fan, but there are other things that you can do with this ingredient. One of my favorite new recipes is for Spiced Pumpkin Madeleines. It is a very French way to use an all-American ingredient.

These "cookies" are incredibly easy to prepare because I use good old canned pumpkin puree. Their texture is pure madeleine, crispy on the outside and cakey-soft on the inside. Also, like true madeleines, this texture is fleeting. They are at their zenith of perfection while still warm from the oven. They begin to decline quickly, and should be consumed the same day that they are prepared. After a day, they become soft and "wet"/sticky. They still taste great, but they lack the hallmark madeleine texture. This really should not be a problem though, because they are so good that they won't be around that long!

Spiced Pumpkin Madeleines
Makes about 2 1/2 dozen

4 large eggs, separated
1 1/4 cups granulated sugar
1 cup canned pumpkin puree
1 tablespoon Madagascar vanilla extract
3/4 cups cake flour
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, browned

In a small saucepan over medium-low heat begin to melt the butter. Once the butter melts, allow it to gently cook until it begins to turn a light brown color. Immediately turn off heat and allow butter to sit. It will continue to brown as it rests. If your butter gets too dark, start over.

Place the egg yolks in the bowl of a mixer along with half of the sugar. Beat on high speed until sugar melts and yolks become a pale yellow. Add pumpkin puree and vanilla and beat on low until just mixed together.

Place egg whites in a separate mixer bowl and beat on high speed until they reach soft peaks. Add remaining sugar and continue beating until egg whites are stiff and glossy.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the flours, salt, and spices.

Whisk 1/3 of the egg whites into the pumpkin mixture to lighten the batter. Then in 2 batches, gently fold in remaining egg whites using a large rubber spatula. Sprinkle flour mixture gently over the top of the batter and fold until combined. Be sure that there are no pockets of flour at the bottom of the bowl. Finally, add 6 tablespoons of the reserved brown butter, reserving 2 tablespoons to grease the madeleine pan. Cover batter and allow to rest in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours.

To bake:

Preheat oven to 375 degrees and place oven rack in middle position. Lightly butter a madeleine pan with the reserved brown butter. Be sure that no butter pools in the bottom of the shells as this will distort the final appearance. Place 1 1/2 - 2 tablespoons of batter in each shell mold. I find that a small portion scooper works best for this. Place in hot oven and bake for 14 to 15 minutes. Remove from oven and invert madeleines onto a cooling rack. If they stick, just bang a corner of the pan on the rack and they will come right out. Allow to cool to warm and serve immediately. They may be kept for 1 day, uncovered.

Raspberry, Litchi, and Rose Water Sorbet

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Sun, 13 Sep 2009 23:00:00 +0000

Have you heard of the enchanting flavor called Ispahan? It is an exotic blend of raspberry, litchi, and rose. This flavor was invented/discovered by Master Pastry Chef, Pierre Herme. If you have not yet tried Ispahan, a whole new flavor world awaits you! Words cannot describe the other-worldliness of this flavor. It is like some sort of Heavenly perfume that dances upon your palate and leaves you longing for more.

I was first introduced to this flavor at the French Pastry School in Chicago, while attending a reception for Chef Herme. From the moment that I tasted it, I was hooked. I ate more Ispahan macaroons that evening than I care to admit. The flavor was so haunting, so soulful, so elegant, so SEXY, that it became imprinted on my psyche! All things Ispahan became my quest. I studied the flavor, researched its name and origin. As it turns out, it is named after the Ispahan Rose. There is also a city in Persia/Iran called Ispahan. This is very fitting for a flavor that transports you to a far-off, mysterious place!

The 19th century poet, Thomas Bailey Aldrich captured the flavorful mystique of Ispahan in his classic verse:

When the Sultan Goes to Ispahan

When the Sultan, Shah-Zaman

Goes to the city Ispahan,

Even before he gets so far

As the place where the clustered palm-trees are,

At the last of the thirty palace-gates

The pet of the harem, Rose-in-Bloom,

Orders a feast in his favorite room--

Glittering square of colored ice,

Sweetened with syrup, tinctured with spice,

Creams, and cordials, and sugared dates,

Syrian apples, Othmanee quinces,

Limes and citrons and apricots,

And wines that are known to Eastern princes.

The simplest way to experience Ispahan is to make the following sorbet recipe. It is very simple, but it lets the pure, clean flavors of the ingredients shine through. This is my recipe. It is my Homage to Pierre Herme. It is a humble tribute to one of my Culinary Heroes.

This sorbet is great on its own, served as an Intermezzo, or as a compliment to Middle Eastern and Persian Desserts. If sorbet can be sexy, this definitely fits the bill!

Raspberry, Litchi, and Rose Water Sorbet
(Sorbet Ispahan)
Makes slightly more than 1 Quart

8 ounces fresh raspberries, or frozen raspberry puree
8 ounces fresh litchi pulp, or frozen litchi puree
12 ounces granulated sugar
2 cups water
1 tablespoon rose water**
1 tablespoon lemon juice
pinch of salt

Place fresh fruits or purees, sugar, and 1 cup water in a blender. Blend on high for 1 minute. Pour blended fruit through a fine strainer to remove seeds and large solids. Press on residue in the strainer to extract as much liquid as possible. Add remaining ingredients to strained fruit, mix thoroughly, cover, and chill overnight. This allows the flavors to marry perfectly. The next day, pour sorbet base into an ice cream freezer and spin for 20 to 30 minutes. Once frozen, transfer to a quart container (there will be extra for you to try!!!). Allow to cure in the freezer 2 to 4 hours. That's it!

** Rose Water can be found at Whole Foods Market, in Middle Eastern stores, or is available online from the Spice House.

Saucisse de Toulouse

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Mon, 31 Aug 2009 00:00:00 +0000

Here is my recipe for Toulouse Sausages. These are simple, all-purpose French sausages that can be used in a variety of dishes, but most notably, Cassoulet de Toulouse. Since we are on the verge of Cassoulet season, I thought it fitting to insure that a fresh supply of sausages was on hand. These sausages are lightly flavored with white wine, garlic, nutmeg, coriander, allspice, thyme, and savory. They can be used in any recipe calling for a fresh garlic sausage. They are also great grilled and served with plenty of crusty bread and Moutarde Violette.

Saucisse de Toulouse
Makes about 20 sausages

3 pounds of fairly lean pork shoulder, cut into 1 inch pieces and well chilled
1 pound of pork fatback, cut into 1 inch pieces and well chilled
1 teaspoon nutmeg, freshly grated
1 teaspoon coriander, ground
1 teaspoon thyme, dried
1/2 teaspoon allspice, ground
1/2 teaspoon savory, dried
1 cup white wine, I prefer Sauvignon Blanc
1 1/2 tablespoons Kosher salt
2 teaspoons black pepper, freshly ground
12 feet of hog casings, rinsed thoroughly**

Using a meat grinder, coarsely grind the pork shoulder and fatback together. Use the die with the large holes, or a die specifically for sausage-making. After meat and fat are ground, add all of the remaining ingredients except for the hog casings. Mix thoroughly in a large bowl with your hands until well combined. Cover seasoned sausage mix with plastic and refrigerate overnight. The next day, cook a small patty of sausage mix to check seasoning. If you feel that the sausage needs more salt or any other seasoning, add it now.

Cut the rinsed sausage casings into 3 foot lengths. This will make it easier to work with. Carefully thread a length of casing onto a sausage filler tube. When the end is reached, tie a knot. Carefully begin to stuff the casings, being careful not to over-stuff. If you over-stuff the casings, they will burst. Also, be careful not to have large air bubbles in the casing. The sausage mix should be packed semi-firmly, and look full. This will take some practice, but this really is the fun part. If the casing bursts, or if you notice a hole, stop at that point. Empty the casing enough to tie it off.

Continue this procedure until all of the sausage mix has been stuffed into casings. Remember to leave yourself enough room at the end of a length of casing to tie a knot. The casings are slippery, so this part can become quite comical! Once all of your casings have been tied off, you are ready to twist the casings to form individual sausages. Be very gentle! This is where trouble can quickly set in. Measure off 6 to 8 inches, gently pinch the sausage, and twist a couple of turns. If your casings are too full, this added pressure will cause them to fail. If this happens, never fear, just stuff any left over casings (you will have left overs).

Once individual sausages are formed, they can be used immediately, or carefully wrapped and frozen for three months.

** This large amount of hog casings will give you more than enough to work with. Luckily, hog casings are inexpensive, and it is better to have too much rather than not enough. It is guaranteed that some will break until you become accustomed with the stuffing procedure. Don't worry, just keep trying. After all, it is an art!

Moutarde Violette

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Thu, 27 Aug 2009 14:00:00 +0000

This is my new must-have ingredient! It is the famous Moutarde Violette de Brive. It is mustard made with grape must. Made since the Fourteenth Century, this style of mustard can be traced back to ancient times. In fact, our word mustard comes from the Latin word mustum, which means grape must. Famous in the Limousin region of Southwestern France, Moutarde Violette is the perfect condiment for duck, pates, sausages, beef, and really just about any other place that you would want to use mustard! Its flavor is sweet and delicate with a haunting hint of spice. It is available in two styles, whole grain and smooth. Makes a great base for sauces and vinaigrettes. In the United States, it is available online from Zingerman's (whole grain, search for Violet Mustard), La Cuisine (smooth, search for Purple Mustard), and other sources. Sometimes, due to U.S. labeling laws, it is referred to as "Purple Condiment". In France or the rest of Europe, you can order it from Bien Manger (smooth, search for Moutarde Violette).

Ragout Forestiere : Wild Mushroom Ragout

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Sun, 16 Aug 2009 13:03:00 +0000

With my new-found love of mycology, I just can't seem to get enough mushrooms in my life. Since we are at the height of Chanterelle Mushroom Season, I developed this recipe to pay homage to one of my favorite fungi. This is an elegant combination of some of nature's greatest treasures, Chanterelle and Lobster Mushrooms, along with our Poached Summer Truffles. This Ragout can be served as its own course, or as a side to meat, poultry, or fish.

Ragout Forestiere
Serves 6 to 8

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 small shallots, minced
7 ounces Chanterelle Mushrooms, cleaned**, and cut in half, small mushrooms left whole
7 ounces Lobster Mushrooms, cleaned**, and cut into large pieces
2 Summer Truffles, diced large
1/4 cup dry white wine, I prefer a Sauvignon Blanc
1/4 cup truffle poaching liquid
1/4 cup heavy cream
3 sprigs fresh French Thyme, leaves only
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, chopped
salt and pepper to taste

Melt butter in a large pan over medium-high heat. When butter just begins to brown, add the shallots and saute until translucent. Add both mushrooms and the truffles, and saute until the mushrooms just begin to brown around the edges. Do NOT shake the pan or stir the mushrooms around too much as this will cool down the pan and cause your mushrooms to stew. When the mushrooms begin to brown, add the wine and reduce until the pan is almost dry. Add the poaching liquid and reduce until the pan is almost dry. Add the cream, thyme, and parsley. Stir to just combine, and season with salt and pepper. Cook together for 3 more minutes, and serve immediately.

** To clean the mushrooms, wipe off with a damp cloth. If the mushrooms are very dirty, quickly run them under running water. Pat dry before cooking.

BTKW Chef's Garden 2009 Update

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Fri, 14 Aug 2009 13:18:00 +0000

Picking cucumbers on a beautiful morning

The harvest continues! Everything is doing well except for the bush beans, beets, and fennel; all of which succumbed to the well-fed rabbits! They are smarter than they look! I did get some of these vegetables, but they were underdeveloped due to constantly having their leaves eaten. Such is life!

The corn has come in, sweet and tender. The pickling cucumbers are also abundant. I have already made one batch of Refrigerator Kosher Dill Pickles. I will share the recipe soon. Herbs are still abundant. The cilantro is going to seed, and is providing me with intensely flavorful green coriander. Squashes are starting to come in, and the tomatoes are FINALLY heavy with fruit. I should be up to my eyeballs in tomatoes in the next 2 weeks! Tomato canning in my near future! Peppers are still small, but coming around. Better luck next year.

Remembering Julia Child

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Sun, 09 Aug 2009 16:00:00 +0000

With all the hoopla surrounding the release of the new movie "Julie & Julia", I thought it only fitting to jump on the Blogger Bandwagon with my two cents. Wouldn't want my blog to miss any Google hits. I guess this makes me guilty of using Julia's name and reputation to get ahead, something she would have frowned upon. But hey, everybody is doing it, so that makes it alright, n'est-ce pas?

Don't get me wrong, I am a HUGE Julia Child fan. She has been my hero since I was a small child. I remember watching the French Chef series in the mornings along with Sesame Street and Mr. Rodger's Neighborhood back in the early 70's. I firmly believe that she is responsible for my love affair with fine food. She inspired me to cook, and to become a Chef. She taught me to be an undying Francophile, as she was. I love her, and I always will. I am thrilled that they actually made a movie about her. I saw the movie, and I absolutely loved it! But I love all things Julia. I always have. She deserves this recognition because she completely changed the way that Americans ate. Notice that I say ATE, not EAT. All of the great progress that Julia inspired in the 60's and 70's has been undermined by the glut of corporate/fast food/Food Network crap of the 80's, 90's, and 2000's. But I'm getting ahead of myself...

Julia Child was a Purist. She believed in good, honest hard work, and everything in moderation. She loved food, and she loved French food most of all. She is the perfect anti-hero for today. She did not peak at 25 years old and make millions by selling out. She did not even learn to cook until she was 37 years old (practically dead by today's standards). She was not youthful, she was not glamorous or graceful, she didn't have a great TV personality, but she had passion and the courage of her convictions. This is sadly the one quality that is missing from today's "Stars". There is no passion for food, only sales and competition. Julia would be absolutely mortified at what the "Celebrity Chef" has degenerated into, a cheap pitch person for merchandise. A talking head with absolutely no food sense whatsoever. She would be shocked to see Gordon Ramsey risk Michelin Stars for ratings.

Julia never lent her name to any merchandise, only her books and television series. Julia never lent her name or endorsements to other cookbooks. She did not want to have her name exploited by the mass media marketing machine. She knew the dangers of allowing money mongers to get their cold, corporate hands on her art. She was a true artist, living only to cook her beloved French Cuisine for her beloved husband, and for us. A true gift.

According to Sarah Moulton, who was lucky enough to be mentored by Julia Child, Julia absolutely HATED the Julie/Julia Blog. She thought it was gimmicky and exploited her name and reputation. This was the attitude that Julia had towards most people that tried to pay her homage. She wanted none of it. She wasn't a saint, she was a teacher. She worked hard and wanted others to work hard too. There was no time for platitudes, only food. And make that French food, thank-you! The greatest food of all!

Yes, Julia Child loved La France. From the moment she tasted the Sole Meuniere at La Couronne in Rouen, she knew that she was home. She knew what her life's mission was - to teach Americans to adore the treasures of the French table. This is the Julia Child of my experience. The teacher absolutely brimming with all things French. As I watched her as a child, I knew that she spoke the truth. She made me want to be French, like she wanted to be French. Today I like to say : Je suis Americain, mais mon coeur et Francais (I am American, but my heart is French). This was how she felt. She loved America, but her heart and soul were French.

And it worked! America fell madly in love with this strange creature who wasn't afraid to give it her all. Her passion for La Cuisine Francaise was greater than her lack of perfection. She was like us, imperfectly human. When she dropped something, she picked it up and kept going. Fearless! She became so popular that she made the cover of Time Magazine's Thanksgiving issue in 1966.
Her passion continued for the rest of her life. She worked tirelessly to teach Americans the Art of French Cooking. She inspired a whole generation of new Chefs to cook from the heart. She changed the way that Americans ate. Besides winning many TV and literary awards, and an honorary doctorate from Harvard, Julia Child was also presented with the Legion of Honor by her beloved France in 1991. She was presented with the Medal of Freedom by the United States in 2003, the highest civilian honor.

So what happened? Why has our Food Culture degenerated to the point that there is a Panera on every corner, and a real bakery can't make it? Why as a nation do we consider going to the drive thru at McDonalds a suitable option to feed our children a "meal"? Why do we attempt to ban foie gras, but cigarettes are legal? Why is there E-coli on my Enoki mushrooms? Why are we considering legislation to make it illegal to criticize monster food conglomerates for their crimes against nature and humanity? What the hell is going on in this country?

We have become divorced from the notion that GOOD FOOD = PLEASURE!!!

We are so hung up on convenience that we have sold our health and the health of our children for our hectic schedules. We run around like idiots, from work, to school, to soccer practice, to activity after activity, but we don't stop to eat as a family. When we are finally at home together, we go off into our own isolated/electronic worlds: IPod, Texting, Cell Phone, Video Games, IPhone Apps, Web Surfing, etc... How many times do you have to tell your kids NOT to text at the dinner table? We are drifting apart as families and as a nation. The once strong bond of the dinner table has been replaced by grabbing a bucket of calorie laden "food" on the way from soccer practice to Hip Hop dance practice. It's nuts!

And the corporations are there to make it all possible. We have returned to the America that Julia Child faced when she was first starting out. The America of the Frozen Dinner. The America where having to be in the kitchen was seen as some kind of Draconian punishment. Only now it's worse because there are even more "choices". We can feed ourselves for very little money and very little time. Sounds great, but look at the consequences: obesity, diabetes in children, heart disease, cancer, cancer, cancer, sexually mature 8 year olds (from hormones), powerful new strains of E-coli, genetically modified organisms, irradiation, pollution, and Paula Deen - who is the spokesperson for Smithfield Foods, one of the biggest polluters on EARTH!
Shame on you, Paula! Did you do any research at all, or do Y'ALL only care about money???

I think that America needs Julia Child, now more than ever! We need her to teach us again. We need to STOP and LISTEN. The release of Julie & Julia has the potential to introduce a whole new generation of young Americans to the Grande Dame of French Cuisine. When I went to the movie, the theatre was PACKED! I actually had to wait in a huge line because so many people wanted to see Julia again. I found it very encouraging. It's not too late, we can still get this right. We just need to turn off the Food Network and listen to someone who actually loved food!

I love you, Julia! You are my HERO. Thank-you for teaching me to love La Cuisine. I miss you.
Bon Appetite!

French Walnut Vinaigrette

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Sun, 02 Aug 2009 17:19:00 +0000

A staple of fine French cuisine, roasted walnut oil is the perfect compliment to summer salads. My favorite brand of walnut oil is made by La Tourangelle, a company that has been handcrafting fine oils for 150 years in Saumur, France. They also offer a wide array of other quality oils for all of your favorite recipes.

This is my variation on La Tourangelle's standard vinaigrette recipe. I like to add slightly more vinegar for a brighter flavor.

French Walnut Vinaigrette

1/4 cup roasted walnut oil
1 1/2 tablespoon cabernet sauvignon vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
salt and pepper to taste, I recommend 1/4 teaspoon of each

In a small bowl, whisk vinegar, mustard, salt**, and pepper together. Slowly drizzle in walnut oil, whisking thoroughly.

** Tip - Always add salt to the vinegar before adding the oil. Oil can prevent the salt from dissolving completely.

Farmers' Market Raspberry Pie

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Tue, 28 Jul 2009 14:00:00 +0000

I love raspberry season! There is just something so special about the raspberry. It is delicate and elegant. It's flavor is sophisticated. It's no wonder that it is called the "King of Berries". When raspberries come straight from the farm, or are grown at home, they are even better. Something as delicate as a raspberry is only at its peak of freshness and flavor for a short time. Within hours of being picked, they begin to decline. Raspberries are very prone to mold. Once purchased, they should be used within 2 days, or preserved in some way.

After harvesting raspberries from my garden, or buying them from the farm, I get to work preserving them for future use. The berries that are not eaten fresh, or turned into sauces or jams are Individually Quick Frozen. This helps to maintain them at their peak for months.

My favorite thing to do with fresh raspberries is to turn them into pies. A raspberry pie is a special treat. The only problem is that it's hard to find a good recipe for raspberry pie. Raspberries contain a lot of water. As a result, most raspberry pies come out soupy. It is horribly anti-climactic to see all of your beautiful raspberry filling go running off the crust as you try to serve a piece of pie! I've been there, it's heartbreaking!

After many heartbreaks, I developed the following raspberry pie recipe. The key to this pie's success is arrowroot, and a lot of it. This results in a glossy, ruby-colored filling that stands up straight and tall when sliced. Also, the filling is not cooked before being added to the crust. As a result, the filling is loaded with whole, juicy raspberries, as illustrated by the picture below.

Raspberry Pie

24 ounces (by weight) fresh or IQF raspberries
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/3 cup arrowroot
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon Tahitian vanilla
1 flaky pie crust

Place oven racks to center position, and preheat oven to 375 degrees. Roll out pie crust and line a standard 9 inch, metal pie dish. Place lined pie dish in refrigerator and chill for 30 minutes. While dough is chilling, combine all other ingredients in a large bowl and GENTLY mix together using a large rubber spatula. Be careful not to break up the berries too much. After 30 minutes, GENTLY add filling to the crust, being sure that no arrowroot or sugar remains in the bowl. Level out filling, place pie dish on a baking sheet, and bake pie for 1 hour. Pie should be very bubbly, but be sure that the filling does not start to caramelize around the edges. Depending on your oven, you may need to bake the pie even longer. The key is to be sure that pie is bubbly in the middle. If crust begins to brown too quickly, reduce heat to 325 degrees. When pie is done, it will still be somewhat loose in the center. Remove pie from oven, cool on a rack for 1 hour, and then chill in the refrigerator for 6 hours. The filling will firm up as it chills.
At this point, this becomes a refrigerator pie. It should be stored in the refrigerator, not left out on the counter. It will get moldy! It is also incredibly refreshing when it is cold.

Mushroom Foraging in Maine

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Sun, 26 Jul 2009 23:00:00 +0000

At the beginning of July, I was fortunate enough to travel with my boss to his summer home in Bar Harbor, Maine. Bar Harbor is located on beautiful Mt. Desert Island, just off the Down East coast of Maine. It's an enchanting location. Not only is there the rugged Maine coastline to explore, but there is also Acadia National Park with its pristine beauty.

One day, after I had my fill of lobster, seafood, and blueberries, I was walking along an oceanside path on the property. As I was walking along absorbing the natural beauty of the location, I noticed something strange out of the corner of my eye. In amongst the green and earthy colored underbrush, I saw a golden patch of yellow. It seemed so out of place to me that I had to leave the path and see what it was.

Wild Chanterelle Mushrooms that I saw from the path.

To my absolute amazement, I came upon a rocky outcrop teaming with beautiful wild mushrooms. They seemed familiar. "Oh my G-d, I think those are wild Chanterelles!!!" I shouted to the trees. "They must be Chanterelles!" I thought to myself. Being a professional Chef with an undying love affair with French Cuisine, I have seen thousands of Chanterelle mushrooms. I knew in my heart that these were the real thing, but being from Chicago, I had absolutely no experience identifying wild mushrooms. The last thing I wanted to do was to poison myself or anyone else by misidentifying a mushroom! I decided to pick one and try to find someone who could help me to positively identify it.

Close up shot of Wild Chanterelle Mushrooms.

To my dismay, there was no one on Mt. Desert Island who could help me! I was shocked. Here I was in outdoorsman's paradise, and there wasn't a place for me to bring foraged mushrooms for identification. In Europe, you can bring wild mushrooms to the local pharmacy to be identified. There was no such service to be found. So I kept my little mushroom wrapped in a moist paper towel in the mini bar fridge in my hotel room. I decided that I would try to find some sort of mushroom identifying aid at the local book store. The only problem was that I didn't have time to do it at that moment.

Chanterelle Mushroom on the forest floor.

When I went to work, I told everyone about the mushroom that I had found, and how I thought that it was a wild Chanterelle, and that I couldn't find anyone to help me to identify it, BUT I KNEW THAT I WAS RIGHT! And, I found that when you start talking to people about some wild mushroom that you found, and that you actually picked it, they get VERY concerned. It is amazing how afraid people are of mushrooms. I don't blame them, a misidentification can be deadly. I thought of my own misgivings. If I was so sure, would I be willing to eat the mushroom I picked? I had to admit that without more proof, I WOULD NOT.

Large Chanterelle growing along the road.

A couple of days passed. I started to explore the grounds around the house and found that these golden-yellow mushrooms were growing in several locations. When I would go jogging in the mornings, I would see them growing in certain places along my route. These things were everywhere!
That evening, my boss' mother gave me a present, a National Audubon Society Field Guide to North American Mushrooms. Finally, I would get my answer.

Chanterelle Mushrooms.

I was right! What I had found were indeed wild Chanterelle mushrooms, a Chef's dream come true! The last hurdle in the process was to actually eat my mushroom. I did it! It was raw, it was dirty, it was delicious! From that moment on, I was hooked on foraging for wild mushrooms. There is still a lot to learn, but I now know a wild Chanterelle when I see it!

More Chanterelle Mushrooms.

Pretty soon, I started to notice different mushrooms all over the place. Armed with my field guide, I proceeded to try to identify each one. Most that I found turned out to be edible, but some were not. Now, wherever I go I look for mushrooms. Now, I see mushrooms where I never noticed them before. They are all around us, you just need to know where to look!

Lilac-brown Bolete
This is a good edible mushroom.
It is related to the Cepe, but it is not as delicious.

Yellow-orange Fly Agaric
This is a poisonous mushroom that should not be eaten.
It is not deadly, but it may cause sweating, deep sleep, and disorientation.
Admire its beauty from a distance.

Sauteed Wild Chanterelle Mushrooms

1/2 pound wild Chanterelle mushrooms, cleaned and torn into quarters or in half
1 large shallot, finely minced
4 tablespoons finest quality, unsalted butter
2 tablespoons tart, crisp white wine (Chenin Blanc or Sauvignon Blanc)
1 tablespoon flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
salt and pepper to taste

Heat butter in a large saute pan. Add shallots and saute until they turn translucent. Add torn mushrooms and continue to saute over high heat for 5 minutes. Add wine, and season with salt and pepper. Continue to saute until all moisture evaporates. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.

The mushrooms can be served as a garnish, or as their own course. If you actually find wild mushrooms, I recommend serving them on their own because they are a special treat. This recipe can of course be made with purchased Chanterelle mushrooms! Bon Appetit!

BTKW Chef's Garden 2009 Update: French Fingerling Potatoes

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Thu, 23 Jul 2009 20:45:00 +0000

Today is a special day! The French Fingerling Potatoes are in, and they are gorgeous! I can't believe how well they did. This was my first time growing this variety and I couldn't be happier with the results. Who knew that buying a bag of fingerling potatoes from Whole Foods, letting them start to sprout, and planting them could result in such a bountiful potato harvest 4 months later? From a 1 pound bag of potatoes, I ended up with about 10 pounds of beautiful, blushing fingerlings. I can't wait to cook these beauties. There is nothing better than a fresh potato straight from the Earth. I like to simply steam them, crush slightly, drizzle with the finest extra virgin olive oil, and sprinkle with crunchy sea salt. This simple preparation allows one to really taste the true essence of the potato.

Freshly unearthed French Fingerling Potatoes.

French Fingerling Potatoes basking in the sun, waiting to be gathered.

French Fingerling Potatoes of different shapes and sizes.

Poaching Truffles

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Sat, 18 Jul 2009 21:18:00 +0000

Summer Truffles (Tuber aestivum)

Black Perigord/Winter Truffle (Tuber melanosporum) season is over, and now it is time for the lesser Summer Truffle (Tuber aestivum). Don't get me wrong, I smile when I see any truffle, but sometimes the summer variety can be a little lackluster. There is nothing in the world like the Perigord Truffle, which is why it is so expensive - $70.00 per ounce, compared to the Summer Truffle at $14.00 per ounce. This difference in price and desirability is due to the fact that the flavor and scent of the Perigord Truffle is far superior to the summer variety. The Perigord Truffle is a thing of legend, the Holy Grail of the Fungus Kingdom. Like all of nature's finest treasures, it has a short season. They are only available fresh from late autumn through the winter, with January being their peak month.

When the supply of Winter/Perigord Truffles dries up, the Summer Truffle appears on the market. Their official season is from June to November. They look like their more famous cousin on the outside, but inside they are usually white and they do not have the same intoxicating fragrance. They can still be used the same way that Perigord Truffles are used, but they are not as memorable. They are almost place holders in a recipe, standing in for the resting Diva.

To help the Summer Truffle attain a place of dignity, it needs a little help. The best way to do this is to poach them in a flavorful mushroom and madeira stock. This not only helps to improve the flavor and texture, but it also helps to preserve the truffles for a considerable time. This technique can also be used to preserve Perigord Truffles during their season.

Here is a recipe for a flavorful truffle poaching stock. To help reinforce the truffle flavor, I like to add Winter/Perigord Truffle juice. This product is expensive, but it is worth the investment. You can obtain truffle juice from D'Artagnan.

Poached Truffles

For the mushroom stock:

2 cups mushroom stems
1 tablespoon minced shallot
1 tablespoon chopped carrot
1 tablespoon chopped celery
2 cups water
1 sprig fresh thyme
6 black peppercorns
2 tablespoons Madeira

Combine all ingredients in a medium saucepan, bring to a boil, and simmer for 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, strain stock being sure to press on solids to obtain as much liquid as possible. Return liquid to stove, and reduce stock to 1 cup.

To poach the truffles:

1 cup mushroom stock
1/4 cup Winter/Perigord Truffle juice
2 tablespoons Madeira
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
6 fresh truffles, cleaned

Place stock, juice, Madeira, and salt in a small saucepan. Bring to a gentle simmer. Add the cleaned truffles and turn heat down to lowest setting. Gently poach the truffles for 20 minutes. Remove the truffles from the poaching liquid and place them in a sterilized, sealing jar. Pour the poaching liquid over the truffles, being sure that they are completely submerged. Allow to cool to room temperature, seal jar, and store in the refrigerator. As long as the truffles are submerged, they can be stored for up to 6 months.

Use the poached truffles in your favorite recipes, and also use the poaching liquid as it is packed with great flavor. Just remember, be sure to save enough liquid to keep your truffles completely submerged.

BTKW Chef's Garden 2009 Update

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Mon, 13 Jul 2009 20:49:00 +0000

The Summer is flying by! I was out of town for 2 weeks and returned to a garden brimming with produce that was ready to be picked. Everything is doing well except for the tomato and pepper plants. We have had an unusually cool growing season in the Chicago area, and the tomatoes developed some sort of fungal disease. The leaves are just shriveling up and dying. The plants are loaded with fruit, but I don't know if they will have the strength to ripen. I may have to pick early. The pepper plants are just stunted and spindly from the cool temperatures. From what I have heard, this is happening in New England as well.

Not all is bleak however, the cold crops are thriving! The cabbages, broccoli, and cauliflower are doing incredibly well. All of my herbs are thriving, and the onions are starting to come in. The raspberries have also started coming in. They are fragrant and sweet. Everything else is coming along at a normal pace for this time of year. It is nice to see all of my hard work start to pay off!

So, here's a rundown of what I harvested today:

Raspberries
Cabbages
Rainbow Swiss Chard
Cauliflower
Bush Beans (Green, Purple, and Yellow)
Shallots
Yellow Onions

Stat tuned for further garden updates!

The cabbages are doing very well. These giant beauties are so sweet!

First batch of yellow onions!

BTKW Chef's Garden 2009 Update : First Broccoli of the Season!

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Thu, 18 Jun 2009 20:53:00 +0000

This is the first of hopefully many garden updates. The cool weather and abundant rainfall have been very beneficial for cruciferous vegetables. As a result, I have just harvested the first broccoli of the 2009 season! It is incredibly sweet and fresh. Broccoli this fresh does not require too much cooking, just a light saute in a little olive oil or butter and a sprinkling of sea salt.

BBQ Sauce

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Sun, 14 Jun 2009 22:21:00 +0000

There are as many recipes for BBQ sauce as there are people who love BBQ. It is amazing that a simple condiment can evoke such passion in the human soul. It is a testament to the power of cooking and its link to our evolution as a species. I happen to love all sorts of BBQ sauce. Tomato- based or vinegar- based, just keep the BBQ coming! I use many sauces at Beyond The Kitchen Wall, depending on my mood or what I have a taste for. The great thing about BBQ is that there is always something new to try. The following recipe is for my tomato-based BBQ sauce. It is fairly straight forward until you get to one ingredient, vanilla. I love vanilla, and try to use it everywhere that I can. It highlights the sweetness in this sauce recipe, and lingers gently on the palate. It adds an exotic, almost mysterious flavor that leaves you wanting to take another bite.

BTKW BBQ Sauce
Makes about 1 Quart

2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 large onion, finely minced
3 garlic cloves, finely minced
1 15 oz. can tomato sauce
1 6 oz. can tomato paste
1 cup dark brown sugar
1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons smoked hot paprika
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1 teaspoon Ceylon cinnamon
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground savory
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 12 oz. bottle flavorful beer, or 12 oz. apple juice
1 teaspoon Madagascar vanilla

Place the oil in a medium sauce pan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until translucent. Add all of the other ingredients except for the vanilla, mix well, and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low, and allow to simmer until reduced to 4 cups, stirring often to insure that sauce does not scorch. This should take about 1 hour. When reduced, remove from heat and allow to cool slightly. Puree sauce using an immersion blender, or in a food processor. Once pureed, add vanilla and mix thoroughly. Sauce may be stored in a jar in the refrigerator for 1 month.

Blending Spices : Dry Rub for BBQ Ribs

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Sun, 14 Jun 2009 17:15:00 +0000

Many people are intimidated when it comes to creating their own spice blends. Really, it couldn't be easier, and I find it to be one of the most enjoyable aspects of cooking. I feel like some sort of mad alchemist when I have all of my spice bottles lined up before me. What I add and how much determine what my final result will be. Will my blend lean more towards Indian or Moroccan? Will it be Latin or Middle Eastern? Or will it be something uniquely my own?
The possibilities are endless, as all of the world's exotic flavor signatures are locked within those little glass jars.

First of all, we have to define a spice. What are spices, and how are they different from herbs? The difference is that spices come from seeds, bark, fruit, roots, and flowers; and herbs come from leaves and stems. Some plants provide both herbs and spices. Cilantro and coriander come from the same plant, etc...

It is important to start with the freshest spices. All whole spices should be used within one year of purchase, and ground spices should be replaced every six to nine months. They should be stored in a cool, dry, dark place. Never store them near the stove. They should also be kept in tightly sealed jars. Glass is recommended as it will not absorb flavors.

When it comes to blending spices, start off simply, using spices that are familiar to you. Begin with two or three spices and build from there. Gradually, when you become familiar with different spices, you can find ways to add them to your blend. Just remember, Each addition will take your blend into a new direction. Learning the dominate spices of a particular cuisine will help you determine which spices work well together.

To demonstrate the magic of a great spice blend, and because Father's Day is approaching, I am giving you a recipe for a dry rub for BBQ Ribs. This is the spice blend that I use, and it couldn't be easier to put together. The list of ingredients is long, but most of these spices are fairly common in most spice racks. You will notice that this recipe also contains a few herbs. The brightness of their flavors work well to balance the heavy, earthiness of the spices.

Dry Rub for BBQ Ribs
Makes about 1 1/2 cups

1/4 cup sweet Hungarian paprika
2 tablespoons dry mustard powder
2 tablespoons Sichuan peppercorns, whole
2 tablespoons cumin, whole
2 tablespoons coriander, whole
2 tablespoons French thyme, dried
2 tablespoons black peppercorns
2 tablespoons savory, dried
2 tablespoons caraway seed
1 teaspoon allspice, ground
1 teaspoon anise seed, whole
1 teaspoon turmeric, ground
1 teaspoon ginger, ground
1 clove, whole
2 bay leaves

Simply grind all of the spices together, in batches, in a spice grinder. Be sure that everything is ground as finely as possible. Place finely ground spices into a glass or metal bowl and whisk together to be sure that everything is blended thoroughly. Store in a tightly sealing glass jar.

To use, sprinkle generously on both sides of ribs which have been thoroughly cleaned (you can ask your butcher to do this) and seasoned generously with kosher salt. Allow to rest in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours.

Cook according to your favorite method. I use a hot/fast method as opposed to the low/slow method. The ribs do not require any "parboiling". They become juicy and tender on there own. They cook for about 1 hour to 1 hour and 20 minutes depending on your fire. If you use sauce, do NOT apply it until the ribs are completely cooked. Any good quality BBQ sauce works well with this rub. If you like to use a mop, may I suggest the following:

BBQ Mop

1 cup water or beer
1/4 cup cider vinegar
2 tablespoons spice rub
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Mix all ingredients together and mop ribs every15 minutes, and every time ribs are turned.

Grasshoppers, Anyone?

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Thu, 11 Jun 2009 19:00:00 +0000

Now this a souvenir! A fresh jar of grasshoppers from Mexico! I knew that people have eaten various types of insects in Mexico for thousands of years, but I did not know that they now had them packaged for export! This is a jar of Chapurrines brand chapulines (grasshoppers). The jar claims that they are a HOT item for export. Who am I to argue. When I saw these, I knew that they were something that I had to try. Why should Anthony Bourdain and Andrew Zimmern be the only ones who get to have all of the fun?

I have to admit that my cultural conditioning made me a little squeamish at first, but I was able to temporarily overcome my aversion to insects. I ate one. It wasn't bad. It tasted sort of tart and earthy, like sumac. I don't think that I will make them a part of my usual dining routine, but I am glad to say that I have finally tried insects. They are, after all, a very important food source for many people in the world.

In case you were wondering what to do with your Chapurrines, don't worry. There are recipe suggestions right on the jar! Here is one that I thought sounded pretty good (I changed it a bit because I just can't help myself):

Pico de Gallo con Chapurrines (Chapulines)

1 large tomato, diced small
1/4 large onion, diced small
1/2 avocado, diced small
3 jalapenos or to taste, chopped
1/4 cup cilantro, chopped
1 tablespoon lime juice
75 grams (1 jar) Chapurrines brand chapulines
salt to taste
2 tablespoons olive oil

Mix everything together and let rest in the refrigerator for 15 minutes before serving.
Serve with chips, vegetables, or use on tacos.

BTKW Chef's Garden 2009

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Sun, 07 Jun 2009 22:23:00 +0000

View of the estate and part of the garden. We just built several raised beds right on the lawn!
Herbs are in a separate location .

Not only do I love to cook, I also love to garden! This year at Beyond The Kitchen Wall I was able to plant a large vegetable and herb garden. There is nothing better than growing your own fresh fruits and vegetables. Everyone who loves to cook should strive to grow some sort of garden, even if it is just a pot of herbs on a small balcony. I love working with fresh, local produce. I am constantly wandering around the local Farmers' Markets looking for the freshest treasures of the season. This year I will have produce from the farm and from the garden! I am very excited, and I can't wait to serve my fresh veggies to the family that I work for. They are in for some real treats.

The garden is organic, of course. It consists of several raised beds that were built right on the lawn in the backyard. A majority of the plants were placed in these beds, but there are other smaller spots that were commandeered for vegetables and herbs. The herbs were planted as close to the kitchen as possible. Basically, I have turned a great estate on Chicago's North Shore into a farm. Does that make me a Gentleman Farmer??? It is going to be a great season!

I wanted to share some pictures of my garden with you, and give a list of everything that I planted this year. I have been very busy, and my hard work seems to be paying off. The weather has been unseasonably cool so far this year, so some of the crops got off to a slow start. The cruciferous vegetables however, are thriving!

Chives in bloom

French Fingerling Potatoes

My first Tomato of the season!

Broccoli, Cauliflower, and Cabbages

First head of Broccoli!

Raspberries

Tomato bed

Rainbow Swiss Chard

Bush Beans

Shallots

Red and Yellow Onions

Garlic

This year I planted (not in any particular order) :

French Thyme
Italian Parsley
Basil, various
Sage
Cilantro
French Lavender
Lemon Grass
Lemon Balm
Lovage
Dill
Oregano
Summer Savory
Chervil
Chives
Garlic Chives
Rosemary
Strawberries
Raspberries
Blueberries
Broccoli
Cauliflower
Brasica Cauliflower
Cabbages
Corn
Artichokes
Tomatoes, various
Peppers, various
Chiles, various
Onions, red and yellow
Pickling Cucumbers
Charentais Melons
French Fingerling Potatoes
Rainbow Swiss Chard
Parsnips
Bush Beans, green, yellow, and purple
Beets, red and gold
Fennel
Carrots, multi-colored
Butternut Squash
Delicata Squash
Patty Pan Squash
Pumpkins

TV Food Network - Crimes Against Cuisine

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Mon, 01 Jun 2009 00:28:00 +0000

Do you remember when you could actually watch trained Chefs cooking on the TV Food Network? They were not pretty, they were not perky, they didn't have cleavage, but they could cook! Gone are the days when you could learn recipes and techniques from actual professionals. Now, all that you see are "personalities" who have no business even being around food. I mean, come on! The lack of food sense and technique is mind boggling. I don't know where they find these people. Just what are the culinary qualifications to be the "Next Food Network Star"? How can a show that teaches you how to cook from a can and powder pouch be considered good food programming? When did we lose sight of learning to cook good and wholesome food for our families and friends. Dinner should not take 30 minutes to prepare. Good food takes time. Have they heard about the Slow Food Movement? Have they heard of Alice Waters? Cooking is an ART!

I am a professional Chef. I have devoted the last 12 years of my life to the pursuit of the Culinary Arts. I cannot believe that a network that was built by Chefs has degenerated into a clearinghouse for talentless, homey "cooks" who don't even have the sense to teach their viewers about using seasonal produce. Could one of these fools take us on a tour of a Farmer's Market? Could one of them teach the art of subtlety instead of over-the-top, in-your-face, overwhelming flavors? Could we not see the Deen Brothers anymore?

All of the original Chefs that were once part of Food Network were either forced out in favor of the mediocre, or jumped ship to save their reputations and dignity. Have you noticed, there is no more Emeril, Wolfgang Puck, Mario Batali, Tony Bourdain, Sarah Moulton, Etc...? Why?
These professionals were replaced with 30 Minute Semi-Homemade Iron Chef Chica Down Home Cookin' For Real Y'all... So sad...

Also, the Food Network marketing machine has made it all but impossible for the unknown Chef to get a cookbook published. Most publishers don't want to take the risk on an unknown, regardless of talent. They would rather publish the jokers on Food Network. Next time you go into a Borders or Barnes & Noble check out the cookbook section. Pride of place is given to books packed with recipes that are culinarily mediocre and don't work. You can now buy Paula Dean Bakeware in the cookbook section of the Barnes & Noble in Evanston, IL. I haven't had the heart to check in other places.

So join me in saying NO to the TV Food Network. It will be hard. Where else will you get to hear some one say "Stoup"? Where else will you learn recipes that contain butter, sour cream, and mayonnaise as the main ingredients? Where else will you learn to design the perfect cocktail for Veteran's Day? Where else will you get to watch people's eyes roll back in their head when they take too big of a bite of ooey, gooey, toffey, chewy? Where else will you see an obsessive-compulsive over think a bowl of oat meal? Where else will you get to see commercials teaching you the wonders of cooking with tomato soup from a can? Where else will you learn how not to hold a knife? Can these people learn to cut? We must be strong, and drastic times call for drastic measures.

The best cooking shows can still be found on PBS. Check them out, and you will actually learn something. Support PBS and the Chefs who do these shows. We live in dark times and the plug could be pulled at any time. We deserve something better.

ARS CULINARIA AD VITAM AETERNAM

French Meringue

Chefdennis1@aol.com (Chef Dennis Wasko) — Sun, 17 May 2009 21:38:00 +0000

Here is a standard recipe for meringue that can be used on the top of lemon meringue pies, or to make pavlovas. I am providing this recipe and the technique at the request of a reader of Beyond The Kitchen Wall who made a lemon meringue pie (her first!) for her husband but felt that the meringue that she made fell short, literally. She wanted a tall, luxurious meringue to crown her pie, but instead her recipe left her with skimpy results. The key to a tall meringue, besides following the rules below, is to use enough eggs! My recipe uses 5 egg whites instead of the standard 4. The extra white will lift your pies to new heights.

Meringues can be tricky, but if you remember a few simple rules, you should have great success:

Only use the freshest eggs.
Allow the egg whites to come to room temperature, or warm gently.
Don't add the sugar too soon.
Don't over beat the whites prior to adding the sugar.

French Meringue
Makes enough to top a 9 inch pie

5 large egg whites, at room temperature
1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt
3/4 cup granulated sugar

Place room temperature egg whites into the bowl of a standing mixer, or gently warm the egg whites in the mixer bowl over extremely low flame, whisking constantly. The whites should feel warm to the touch. The warmer the eggs, the greater the lift.

Add cream of tartar and salt. Place on mixer and start whipping on low speed to break up the egg whites. Once egg whites begin to foam, increase speed to medium-high. Continue beating the whites until they just begin to form stiff peaks. Turn down the mixer, add the sugar, and increase the speed to high. Continue beating until the whites become glossy, and the sugar is melted. At this point, you can't over beat the meringue. It is only before the sugar is added that the whites can be over beaten. The meringue should look smooth and glossy, not grainy and lumpy.

The best way to master a meringue is practice. It is not as simple as it seems. You have to learn when the whites are ready for the sugar. If you add it too soon, your meringue will not achieve its full airy potential. If you wait too long, your meringue will break and get lumpy. Practice. Making meringues is an art, and is taken very seriously in the French Kitchen.