Bike Note

Bicycle Safety Tips

2010-04-14T18:11:00.000+07:00

It's simple! Follow the "rules of the road". With few exceptions, when operating a bicycle on the streets and highways you must comply with the motor vehicle traffic regulations of your state and locality. Yes, you have all the rights of a motor vehicle driver, but you also have the same responsibilities they do. That means you must drive on the right side of a two way street, except when overtaking or passing. You must obey traffic lights and signs. At uncontrolled intersections, remember the vehicle on the left yields the right-of-way to the vehicle on the right.

Where bike paths or lanes are available, use them. When traveling with a group, it is best to ride single file and never more than two abreast.

Signals are important. Turning right? Extend your right hand and arm in a horizontal position straight from and level with your shoulder beyond the right side of your bicycle. Turning left? Extend your left arm straight and level to the left side of your bike. For slowing down or stopping, extend your arm downward to your side. By following the regulations applicable to motor vehicles (which the law requires you to do, like it or not), you make it less likely a motor vehicle driver will misunderstand what you are doing and where you are going. Such misunderstandings cause accidents.

MONOWALKER hiking/cycling trailer

2010-04-06T16:07:00.001+07:00

The MONOWALKER, designed by Kai Fuchs, is a great looking wooden and aluminum bike trailer, but as you might guess from the name it is more than that. The product is primarily a single wheeled hiking trailer, but by adding another wheel and a bike drawbar, you can convert it into a cycling trailer. Watch the video on the MONOWALKER site to see it used as both a hiking and biking trailer (as well as a backpack). It looks like a pretty nice product, and the video definitely made me want to try one.

Kai points out that the trailer is ideal for:

• Hikers – who want to hike without weight on shoulders and who appreciate adventures in nature.
• Climbers - who want to bring equipment to the base camp, in order to start the tour from there
• Photographers that want to carry the equipment for outdoor purposes/ or a tent
• Parents/ Dads that want to camp with their kids but who would have too much to carry for 2-4 people- even a child carrier for kids that is usually carried on the back can be connected with the use of the hip belt
• Women that cannot carry much weight on their back.
• Youth group leader – who need to carry their personal things plus group equipment
• Disaster Control which needs to carry heavy equipment on impassable trails, and where vehicles are of no good use
• Scientists in nature who need to carry equipment on narrow trails
• Hunters that need to pull animals out of the woods

To that list I would add touring cyclists, who might want to convert the trailer and use it in hiking mode at times (as the video illustrates). It would be nice to have a way to carry all of your stuff (off the bike) on a long cycle tour.

A hubless wheel from the past: The Black Hole

2010-04-06T15:59:00.001+07:00

As I mentioned in a recent post, hubless wheel concept bikes have been appearing on the web in droves lately. Fast Company recently featured a few of those recent concept bikes (and one really old one) in their “Almost Genius” category, reserved for designs that don’t quite work. On the Core77 discussion boards, slippyfish recently started, “The Official Hubless Wheel Hater Thread”. One of the posts on that thread even points a pretty entertaining gallery of late 19th century hubless monocycles. Of course, BSNYC’s “save the hubs” campaign gets a mention too. All in all, it seems that everyone is kind of tired of seeing new hubless wheel concepts on the web every week.

What better time to revisit a couple of old posts about a hubless wheel, which (I believe) actually went into production for a short time in the mid 90s. The picture you see above is an early prototype of the Black Hole hubless wheel system from “Wear and Tear”. According to the company, this assembly weighed about a pound less than a conventional fork and wheel. Sounds great…why didn’t it catch on?

To the left, you can see a later prototype of the Black Hole. Obviously, the designers were a little too optimistic with that large opening in the previous prototype. I am not sure what happened to Wear and Tear, but I have my doubts that this later prototype was lighter than the average conventional fork and wheel that was available at the time.

On an unrelated note, the Taipei International Cycle Show opens tomorrow. As he did last year, Eric Stoddard will be writing a guest post or two from the show. I’m looking forward to reading what he has to say.

Fuel EX 9.9

2010-04-02T06:03:00.003+07:00

Trail Performance, Patented

The Fuel EX 9.9 is the pinnacle Fuel EX model, with the highest-performance shocks, wheels and drivetrain, and the lightest weight. Also available as a frame only.

Frameset
Sizes	15.5, 17.5, 18.5, 19.5, 21.5"
Frame	OCLV Black Carbon w/ABP Race, Full Floater, E2 tapered head tube, magnesium EVO Link, oversized pivot bearings, replaceable derailleur hanger, 120mm travel
Front Suspension	Fox 32 F-Series Fit RLC w/air spring, compression, lockout, rebound, alloy E2 tapered steerer, 15QR thru axle, 120mm
Rear Suspension	Fox Float RP-23 w/proprietary Trek DRCV, boost valve, Pro Pedal, rebound; 7.25x2.0"
Wheels
Wheels	Bontrager Rhythm Pro Disc wheel system, 6 bolt, tubeless ready
Tires	Bontrager XDX, 26x2.2"
Drivetrain
Shifters	SRAM X.0 trigger
Front Derailleur	Shimano XTR
Rear Derailleur	SRAM X.0
Crank	SRAM Noir 44/32/22
Cassette	Shimano XTR 11-32, 9 speed
Pedals	n/a
Components
Saddle	Bontrager Race X Lite
Seat Post	Bontrager Race XXX Lite, 31.6mm, 5mm offset
Handlebars	Bontrager Race X Lite, carbon, 40mm rise
Stem	Bontrager Race XXX Lite, 7 degree
Headset	Cane Creek Frustum SE Light Edition, E2
Brakeset	Avid Elixir CR MAG, hydraulic disc
Accessories
Extras	Trek fork and shock sag meter

MSRP $6,819.99 *

Equinox TTX 9.0 WSD

2010-03-27T22:27:00.003+07:00

Cheat the Wind

Sharing the same ultra-aerodynamic shaping as the top-end 9.9 SSL, the TTX 9.0 is ready for some serious speed. And outfitted with SRAM's high-value, smooth-shifting Rival gruppo, the 9.0 strikes the perfect balance between affordability and performance.

Frameset
Sizes	Women's XS, S, M
Frame	OCLV Black Carbon
Fork	Bontrager Race XXX Lite TT, carbon
Wheels
Wheels	Bontrager SSR
Tires	Bontrager Race Lite, 700x23c
Drivetrain
Shifters	SRAM TT 500, bar end control, 10 speed
Front Derailleur	SRAM Rival
Rear Derailleur	SRAM Rival
Crank	SRAM S-300 53/39
Cassette	SRAM PG-1070 11-26, 10 speed
Pedals	n/a
Components
Saddle	Bontrager Race WSD TT
Seat Post	Race Lite TTX
Handlebars	Bontrager Race Bullhorn w/Race Lite clip-ons
Stem	Bontrager Race Lite, 7 degree, 31.8mm
Headset	Cane Creek IS-2 Integrated w/cartridge bearings, sealed, alloy
Brakeset	Alloy dual pivot w/Bontrager Race Lite Aero levers

Equinox 7 WSD Review

2010-03-27T22:24:00.002+07:00

Performance Pedigree

Loaded with many of the go-fast details found on the flagship TTX—the lowered down tube, the internal cable routing, the stable, tri-specific geometry—the value-spec’d Equinox 7 stands ready to help you achieve your personal best. The Alpha Red Aluminum frame provides just the right mix of stiffness, efficiency, and low weight, and the SRAM Rival/Bontrager component group rewards riders with a sensible blend of performance and affordability. So whether it’s a sprint distance event, an Ironman, or a local time trial series, the wind tunnel tested and extremely aerodynamic Equinox 7 delivers the speed and efficiency you need to go faster than the competition.

Frameset
Sizes	Women's 47, 51, 54cm
Frame	Alpha Red Aluminum
Fork	Bontrager Race Lite TT, carbon
Wheels
Wheels	Bontrager SSR
Tires	Bontrager Race Lite, 700x23c
Drivetrain
Shifters	SRAM TT 500, bar end control, 10 speed
Front Derailleur	SRAM Rival
Rear Derailleur	SRAM Rival
Crank	SRAM S-300 53/39
Cassette	SRAM PG-1070 11-26, 10 speed
Pedals	n/a
Components
Saddle	Bontrager Race WSD TT
Seat Post	Race Lite TTX
Handlebars	Bontrager Race Bullhorn w/Race Lite clip-ons
Stem	Bontrager Race Lite, 7 degree, 31.8mm
Headset	Cane Creek IS-2 Integrated w/cartridge bearings, sealed, alloy
Brakeset	Alloy dual pivot w/Bontrager Race Lite Aero levers

Six Basic Biking Skills

2010-03-24T00:03:00.001+07:00

In 1971, I rode a Peugeot ten-speed into the White Mountains of New Hampshire, 120 miles from my home, without a clue what I was doing. I brought no cash. I didn’t eat or drink. I didn’t know how to shift gears. I didn’t wear cycling clothes. I had no way to fix a flat and wouldn’t have known how to do the job even if I’d had the tools to do it. Starving, cold and miserable, I spent a sleepless night next to a river. I decided at daybreak that I’d pedal home — if I could — or hitchhike there if I couldn’t.

It’s funny how fate changes things. Rolling along the next morning I was so dizzy from hunger I could barely balance to coast down the road when Galen Farrington pedaled into my life. An experienced cyclist from New Mexico, he was touring New England, and he passed me on a little climb like I was stuck in cement. The cool thing was, he stopped just up the road, waited for me to catch up, and said, “You don’t look so good.”

He led me to a restaurant and bought me a meal. Then he rode with me at my ridiculously slow pace for about an hour, the entire time teaching me how to ride my bike. He even spent a while adjusting the derailleur so it would shift perfectly. I never saw Galen again. But in that brief encounter, he turned a pedaling fool into a cyclist. Because he made me realize that there was a lot to learn about riding a ten-speed. And that every little skill, technique and tip I could learn would make riding all that much easier and that much more fun.

What follows are some of the ride rules that Galen taught me; and others that I’ve learned since.

Hanging On
Because your hands do a lot of the work while you’re riding, they’re prone to fatigue, even damage. Most problems can be prevented by frequently changing hand positions. One of the great advantages of the drop-style handlebar that’s found on many road and touring bicycles is that it provides many different grips. It’s possible to grab on the drops, on the tops, on the brake lever hoods and elsewhere. Every ten minutes in fact, you should take another hand position. This will alleviate pressure on the nerves in the palms that can cause numbness and tingling, while helping to keep your upper body relaxed.

There are fewer options on mountain-style handlebars and other upright designs. If you have bar ends, use them. And don’t rule out gripping portions of the bar just because they’re bare metal. If there’s a place to rest your hands safely (always maintain a secure grip), by all means move them there occasionally for a change.

Pedaling
Ideally, you should relax and let your feet and ankles assume a natural position while pedaling. But there is one tip that may help smooth your pedal stroke and provide a power boost on climbs: If you can learn to pull straight back on the pedals when each reaches the 3 o’clock point on the stroke, you’ll discover with practice that you can generate more power.

Most people focus on the downstroke. But this part of the stroke is natural. Even if you didn’t think about it, you’d manage fine. The key to smoothing the stroke and making it as round as possible is training yourself to pull back. The motion is similar to what’s used to scrape mud from the bottom of your shoes. If you want to immediately feel what it can do for you, try it the next time you’re riding uphill. With enough practice, you won’t have to think about it and your pedal stroke will become rounder and more efficient.

Climbing
Speaking of hills and hand positions: usually it’s best to stay off the drops on climbs. When you’re bent over that low, the diaphragm is compressed making it difficult to breathe deeply. Placing your hands on the brake lever hoods will open your chest allowing your lungs to expand more. This works nicely when seated and standing. If you want even more air when seated, place your hands right next to the stem a position that will raise your torso and open your lungs fully.

When you stand to climb, relax! There’s no need to choke the handlebars, bar ends or brake hoods with a vise-like grip. Doing so will only tense the upper body, make it more difficult for you to react to surprises and tire you out faster. Instead, use a loose grip and let your legs and body weight do the work as you rock the bike slightly side to side.

Cornering
One crazy rule of cycling is that you should never look where you don’t want to go. And it’s true that the more you stare at an obstacle, the more likely it is, you’ll run right over it. This can be a dangerous problem in corners. If you fixate on the line you’ve picked to carve the corner, you may ride right out of the turn and off the road.

I recommend looking to the inside of the turn. And don’t just turn your eyes. Actually rotate your head slightly so you’re looking just to the inside of the line you want to follow around the bend - or in a tight turn, almost at the road’s edge or centerline. This will make it much easier to hold the correct line around scary corners. Be safe though. Practice cornering techniques at slow speed until you’re comfortable.

Descending
Being that it’s most efficient machine in the world, it should be no surprise that a bicycle pointed downhill can accelerate frighteningly fast. You could hit the brakes every time to get things back under control. But that might lead to skidding, wears the brake pads and could surprise following ride partners. A sensible alternative is changing body position to slow down. By sitting taller or moving from gripping the drops to the tops and spreading your legs a bit, your body will catch much more air, which will slow you down parachute style. Of course, this trick only scrubs off some speed. If you really need to slow hard, use the brakes.

Many cyclists experience a terrifying phenomenon on fast downhills called speed wobble. What happens is, at a certain speed the bike begins to shake, sometimes wobbling violently. Many things can cause this to happen and it’s not always the bike’s fault. So it’s good to know ways to prevent and stop it should you experience it.

Try this: clamp your knees against the top tube, which braces a main frame member, and should stabilize the bike and stop the wobble. Riders who’ve experienced wobble learn to always rest a knee against the top tube when descending fast as insurance.

Shifting
Most people don’t shift enough, which leads to premature drivetrain wear, sore knees (or worse) and one tired rider. Here’s how to shift a bicycle: Think of yourself as the bike’s engine. Like an auto engine, you’re most efficient pedaling at a certain rate, usually from 70 to 90 pedal revolutions per minute. To maintain this efficiency, shift every time you feel your pedaling rate (called cadence) slow or speed up. Following this rule, on a rolling course, you’ll be shifting almost constantly to maintain that steady cadence. But at ride’s end, you’ll be fresh while a ride partner who shifts less will be spent.

How do you know what gear to select? First, don’t get confused by the many choices, and don’t worry about harming the bike by shifting it “wrong” — you can’t hurt it as long as you slightly ease the pedal pressure when shifting (you must pedal to shift). And understand that the correct gear is any gear that allows you to pedal comfortably at the moment. There’s no right or wrong gear and there’s no proper sequence to follow. You just shift when your body tells you it’s time for a change.

Shifting the right lever one click makes it slightly easier or harder to pedal. Think of this lever as a way to fine-tune the effort required to pedal. As you pick up speed on a slight downhill for example, you’d click the lever once or twice to shift into a better gear for the speed. Shifting the left lever makes large differences in pedal effort. Think of this lever as a way to make it considerably easier or harder to pedal. Dropping into a valley for instance, you’ll want an easy gear to get back out. But, you’ll probably be in a hard gear because you were just riding downhill. To make the pedaling easy immediately, shift the left lever to move the chain onto a smaller chainring providing much easier pedaling.

If you’re at all nervous about shifting, practice. A good way to do this is to shift the bike when it’s supported on a stand. You might place the bike on a trunk-style bike rack or in a repair stand, hang the nose of the seat on a low branch, or ask a friend to hold the bike off the ground by the seat. Once the bike is supported, use one hand to pedal and the other to shift while watching the chain move over the cogs and chainrings. With a few sweeps of the levers, you’ll get a clear understanding of what’s going on back there and should feel more comfortable about shifting a lot while riding.

How to Lock A Bicycle And Get a Stolen Bike Back

2010-03-23T23:59:00.003+07:00

I’ve owned approximately fifty bicycles. But, I’ve been lucky enough to only have one stolen. It happened in 1990 in Italy while I was on a ten-day tour of Italian bicycle factories sponsored by the Italian Bicycle and Motorcycle Trade Association. On the first day, we stopped near Lake Como for lunch and while we were eating, thieves broke open the van and stole my ride, a nice Specialized Allez I’d customized with hydraulic brakes and super-light pedals.

Our hosts were as dismayed as we were but there wasn’t a thing they, or the carbinieri (police) could do. So, we returned to the hotel in Milan and I spent the evening bummed that I probably wasn’t going to be able to pedal through the incredible Italian countryside. I needn’t have worried.

Bianchi Blows Me Away
The first visit in the morning was to Bianchi, a sprawling multi-building complex. We entered via the company’s well-stocked retail store, which had Bianchi everything, from socks and shoes to water bottles, toe straps, pumps, hats, bags, wheel covers, you name it. Before we could reach for our wallets, however, we were introduced to a tall handsome well-dressed and very fit-looking man who I recognized as Felice Gimondi, one of the greatest roadies ever and a celebrity in Italy.

He greeted us in Italian (while the interpreter translated) and then looked directly at me and apologized for my bicycle being stolen. He then explained that by the end of our factory tour, he’d have a new Bianchi ready for me to take back to America, which he did. And, I rode that celeste full-Campy beauty out to Monza and back the next day in my new Bianchi socks and shorts.

Bicycle Theft is Bad News
Unfortunately, most stolen bicycle stories don’t have such happy endings. And, while I’ll never forget receiving that new Bianchi, I’ll also always remember and miss my stolen Allez. It had special meaning, too, as all bicycles have to their owners.

That’s the saddest thing about bicycle theft. You get attached to your machine and when it’s stolen, you feel violated, lost, depressed. In fact, plenty of people have given up bicycling because their bicycles got stolen, which made them feel violated, unsafe and at risk. Rather than suffer these feelings again, they take up other activities that seem safer.

It’s sad too that kids are afraid to ride to school for fear that their wheels won’t be there when they get out. And that a lot of people who might consider biking around, don’t do so because they feel like there’s no way to keep their bicycle safe while they’re in a store or restaurant. Hopefully, the tips in this article will help you learn how to lock your bicycle and keep it safe and sound.

Recognize the Risks
There are two main points every cyclist should keep in mind. The first is to recognize that there are thieves out there and that they know how to steal bicycles, even locked ones. So, you’ve got to be alert and careful. A lot more about this in a minute.

The other key point that’s rarely explained is that when a bicycle is stolen it’s not a hopeless situation. While it may be unlikely that you’ll see your baby again, if you act fast and do the right things, there’s a reasonable chance of recovery.

How to Keep Your Bicycle Yours
Believe it or not, the vast majority of stolen bicycles get that way because they weren’t locked. So, your first defense against theft is purchasing a quality lock and using it whenever you leave your ride unattended. Thieves usually ignore protected two wheelers because so many freebies are readily available.

But, don’t just slap on the lock any old which way. Thieves are scoundrels but they’re not always stupid. They’ll get your machine or part of it, if you’re lazy about securing it. For example, most dirt and road rigs are equipped with quick-release wheels, which make it easy for crooks to swipe a very expensive chunk of your machine if you forget to lock the wheels (or the rest of the bicycle, if you only secure one wheel!). Likewise, if you wrap a cable around a parking meter, the felon can just lift the bicycle over the post’s top, toss your pride and joy in his truck/trunk and take it home where he can break off the lock at his leisure.

Here are some rules on how to lock and safeguard your bicycle:

Seven Super Safety Rules and One Suggestion

1. Ask other cyclists and bike shop personnel where the high-risk areas in town are so you won’t make the mistake of parking your bike there.
2. At home, store your bicycles inside. If kept in a garage, leave the door closed and store the two wheelers out of sight (consider locking them, too); because you never know who might cruise your neighborhood looking for valuables.
3. When stopped, if you can’t take your bicycle inside, always use your lock.
4. Always lock your bicycle in a safe area and to an unbreakable and immovable object being certain to secure the frame and both wheels. If you must park in a high risk area, use two good locks but different types such as a U-lock and a quality chain-type lock like Kryptonite's impenetrable Fahgettaboudit lock shown at the top of this page or their New York Chain lock. This arrangement thwarts thieves prepared to only attack U locks. See the diagrams below for instructions on locking with and without front wheel removal.
5. Take with you any easily-removed accessories and components such as pumps, cyclecomputers, lights, seat bags, quick-release seat and seatpost, etc.
6. To reduce the risk of becoming a target, never tempt thieves by leaving your bicycle locked for long periods such as overnight, or securing it in a predictable fashion, such as putting it in the same bicycle rack every day.
7. Mark your bicycle so that you can easily prove it’s yours. Some fire station or police departments sell bicycle licenses, which is one way to label your bicycle. You can also write your name on a piece of paper and slip it inside the handlebars. Or write your name underneath your seat with an idelible marker.
8. If you’re convinced no lock can keep your bicycle safe and you mainly bicycle around town, buy a Brompton. This ingenious folding bicycle collapses without tools in about ten seconds to such a small size that you can put it in a Safeway cart with room to spare for groceries. Because it folds so small and so quickly, you never have to leave it outside. Just bring it in with you. It’s a nice riding bicycle too with impressive features.

Getting a Stolen Bicycle Back
I know it seems hopeless when your bicycle is ripped off. But, maybe it will steel your resolve to hear that I know two cyclists who had their bicycles stolen in New York City and later recovered them. One guy found his in a yard sale two years after he lost it. The other guy, walked door-to-door for weeks passing out fliers and talking to people until he got a lead and recovered his Raleigh. In both cases, the bicycles were found in the same condition they were in before they were stolen. I can tell you plenty of stories like this about bicycles that were stolen in Santa Cruz, too.

People claim that bicycles are stolen in bulk and taken out of the area to be sold. Or, you hear that there are rings of thieves who steal bicycles and strip all the parts and make money selling the parted-out machines or refurbished bicycles built of the parts. That may go on. But, in my experience, it’s very rare.

Where they Go
Once stolen, bicycles are usually sold ASAP to someone for quick drug money. Or, the bicycle remains with the person who stole it or with that person’s family or the general community, where he/she lives. Even when the bicycle is turned for drug money, if the transaction takes place here, the bicycle will probably stay here.

So how do you get it back? The most important thing is to act fast once a bicycle is stolen. If you wait, you might forget details about the bicycle that help identify it. And, you’ll miss the chance of letting people know about your bicycle during the time when it’s most likely to be found. Often, a thief will try to get the bicycle repaired (bicycles that ride are easier to sell) and if you’ve alerted the shops, the mechanic will recognize the bicycle and call you. Also, thieves often try to sell bicycles to shops, which never works (because the crooks have no idea what the bicycle is worth) and always raises suspicions.

Steps to Take to Get the Bicycle Back

1. Print hundreds of fliers with a short, accurate description of your stolen bicycle and put them everywhere. As the weather ruins the fliers and knocks them down, put up more.
2. Hand deliver a flier to every bicycle shop in town. They may ask you to write down the information on a card (because it takes less space) and place it on their bulletin board. The important thing is that you let them know the details so they can ID the bicycle if it comes in.
3. Tell everyone you know that the bicycle was stolen and offer to give them a flier.
4. Aggressively search for your bicycle by checking everyplace you think it might turn up. Keep in mind that most of the time, the bicycle is still being ridden so there’s a pretty good chance it might turn up where you see lots of bicycles such as on Pacific Avenue in Santa Cruz or along West Cliff Drive.
5. Use your best judgment if you happen to spot your bicycle. I know it seems risky, but most recoveries happen because the owner simply grabs the bicycle when he sees it or stops and confronts the person riding it. These people usually know that something’s fishy with the bicycle they’re riding and they’re usually ready to give it up rather than deal with a trip to the police station to discuss things. Obviously, I’m not recommending you take unnecessary risks. But, if you see your bicycle, it may well be your only chance to get it back. If you call the police, the bicycle may be long gone before they ever show up.
6. Don’t give up. Sometimes it takes quite a while for a stolen bicycle to surface. Be patient and tenacious in your searching, and you just might be rewarded as my 14-year-old daughter was. It took her 2 years, but she kept looking and one day got her bicycle back by asking for it from the boy she saw riding it.

Why I Left Out the How of Bicycle Theft
You’ll notice that I didn’t describe the details of how thieves steal bicycles. While I’d enjoy busting some myths (no, thieves don’t break locks with liquid nitrogen) with a complete explanation right down to what tools they use, it’s too risky to do so because this article might get in the wrong hands.

So, for now, if you’re interested in the details, ask me the next time you see me on a ride. In the meantime, keep your bicycle safe.

Remedy 7

2010-03-22T18:29:00.002+07:00

Mountain Tamer, Trail Blazer

The Remedy 8 and 7 share the same aluminum frame, but feature different components for the right price to fit your budget.

Frameset
Sizes	15.5, 17.5, 18.5, 19.5, 21.5"
Frame	Alpha Red Aluminum w/ABP Race, Full Floater, E2 tapered head tube, magnesium EVO Link, oversized pivot bearings, ISCG03 mounts, replaceable derailleur hanger, 150mm travel
Front Suspension	Fox 32 Float RL w/air spring, lockout, rebound, alloy E2 tapered steerer, 15QR, 150mm
Rear Suspension	Fox Float RP-2 w/proprietary Trek DRCV, Pro Pedal, rebound; 7.75x2.25"
Wheels
Wheels	Bontrager Select front hub, M525-L rear hub; Bontrager Duster rims
Tires	Bontrager XDX, 26x2.4"
Drivetrain
Shifters	SRAM X.7 trigger
Front Derailleur	Shimano Deore
Rear Derailleur	SRAM X.9
Crank	Shimano M542 44/32/22
Cassette	SRAM PG950 11-34, 9 speed
Pedals	Crank Brothers Custom Candy C
Components
Saddle	Bontrager Rhythm
Seat Post	Bontrager Rhythm Elite, 31.6mm, 5mm offset
Handlebars	Bontrager Approved Riser, 25mm rise
Stem	Bontrager Rhythm
Headset	FSA NO.57E, E2, ACB sealed bearings
Brakeset	Avid Elixir 5, hydraulic disc
Accessories
Extras	Trek fork and shock sag meter

Remedy 9.9

2010-03-22T18:27:00.002+07:00

Mountain Tamer, Trail Blazer

The Remedy 9.9 is the pinnacle Remedy model, with the highest-performance shocks, wheels and drivetrain, and the lightest weight. Also available as a frame only.

Frameset
Sizes	15.5, 17.5, 18.5, 19.5, 21.5"
Frame	OCLV Red Carbon w/ABP Race, Full Floater, E2 tapered head tube, magnesium EVO Link, oversized pivot bearings, replaceable derailleur hanger, 150mm travel
Front Suspension	Fox 32 Talas Fit RLC w/air spring, low speed compression, lockout, rebound, alloy E2 tapered steerer, 15QR, 110-130-150mm
Rear Suspension	Fox Float RP-23 w/proprietary Trek DRCV, boost valve, Pro Pedal, rebound; 7.75x2.25"
Wheels
Wheels	Bontrager Rhythm Pro Disc wheel system, 6 bolt, tubeless ready
Tires	Bontrager XDX, 26x2.4"
Drivetrain
Shifters	SRAM X.0 trigger
Front Derailleur	Shimano Deore XT, Direct Mount
Rear Derailleur	SRAM X.0
Crank	Shimano XTR 44/32/22
Cassette	SRAM PG970 11-34, 9 speed
Pedals	n/a
Components
Saddle	Bontrager Rhythm Pro
Seat Post	Crank Brothers Joplin w/remote height adjustment, 31.6mm
Handlebars	Bontrager Race Lite, 25mm rise
Stem	Bontrager Rhythm
Headset	Cane Creek Frustum SE Light Edition, E2
Brakeset	Avid Elixir CR MAG, hydraulic disc

SE Racing OM Flyer BMX Bike

2010-03-18T18:01:00.001+07:00

Loud and proud. The OM Flyer BMX Bike with Team Blue details is sure to be an attention getter. No matter where you ride this bike, you better be prepared to have a curious audience following you around and asking all kinds of questions about your dope ride. If you're the shy type, this isn't the bike for you.

6061 aluminum frame with Looptail rear end blends incredible strength with exceptional style
Landing Gear chromoly fork is fully equipped for those hard hits
Team Blue details throughout give this ride a retro look
SE 3-piece 48 spline chromoly crank delivers the stiffness, durability and power you need to make the next double
SE Flyer saddle and Woodgrain foam lock-on grips act as a buffer for those hard landings
Tektro 839AL V-brakes offer excellent stopping power
Kenda K-Rad tires provide amazing traction and control over a variety of surfaces
Overbuilt Alex aluminum rims with SE alloy hubs set the stage for all your BMX ventures
Includes grip donuts, alloy axle nuts, alloy bullet valve caps and SE alloy end caps

BOTTOM BRACKET:	American Spline Sealed
BRAKES:	Tektro 839AL V-Brake
CASSETTE:	17T Cassette
CHAIN:	KMC Z30 Silver
CRANKSET:	SE 3-pc Cr-Mo, 180mm, 48 Spline Sealed American, 39T Alloy
FORK:	100% CR-MO Landing Gear
FRAME:	6061 Aluminum Tubing, Looptail Rear End, Retro Dropouts
FRONT DERAILLEUR:	NA
GRIPS/TAPE:	Woodgrain Foam Lock-On Style
HANDLEBAR:	CR-Mo Power Wing Cruiser Bar, 28" X 7"
HEADSET:	Tange DX4 1-1/8" Threadless
LEVERS:	Tektro 313A, 2 Finger Alloy
PEDALS:	Wellgo Alloy Platform w/ CR-MO Axle
REAR DERAILLEUR:	NA
REAR SHOCK:	NA
SADDLE:	SE Flyer Seat
SEATPOST:	Race Rocker Micro-Adjust Aluminum 27.2 w/ SE Racing Alloy seat clamp
SHIFTERS:	NA
STEM:	Retro Top Load 1-1/8" , Alloy
TIRES:	Kenda K-Rad w/ Skinwalls 1.95 F & R
WHEELSET:	Rims: Alex DM24, 36H Double Wall Aluminum, w/ Stainless 14Ga. Spokes; Front Hub: SE Racing, High Flange, Cartridge Sealed Bearing 36H Alloy; Rear Hub: SE Racing, High Flange, Cartridge Sealed Bearing 36H Alloy w/ 17T Cassette

SE Racing Quadangle Looptail BMX Bike

2010-03-18T18:00:00.002+07:00

Get 'em while they're HOT! SE Racing's limited edition Quadangle Looptail BMX Bike is going to go very, very fast. Individually numbered, these classically styled, hand-built masterpieces haven't been made in more than 20 years--so you'd better jump on this rare opportunity before it passes you by.

The SE Racing Quadangle Looptail BMX bike's 100% chromoly tubing, classic double downtube, looptail rear end and retro dropouts haven't graced a BMX bike in over 20 years
All-new, 100% chromoly Landing Gear fork is built to handle big hits
Chromoly 3-piece crank delivers the stiffness, durability and power you need to nail the next double
SE Lightning Blitz seat is a retro-cool, cuke-colored homage to the early days of BMX
Tektro 930AL V-brake powered by Tektro 313A 2-finger levers for fast and precise braking
The Tioga Comp III Re-Issue tires lend retro authenticity (and superb traction, of course) to the Quadangle Looptail
Alex Supra Dome double-wall alloy rims with SE alloy hubs deliver 21st-century performance for your retro-styled BMX ventures
X-Pedo low-profile platform pedals for efficient power transfer. Traction pins are replaceable
Includes SE retro race plate and plastic grip end caps

BOTTOM BRACKET:	NA
BRAKES:	Tektro 930AL V-Brake, Slick Cable
CASSETTE:	16T Freewheel
CHAIN:	KMC Z30, silver
CRANKSET:	SE 3-pc Cr-Mo, 180mm, 48 Spline Sealed American, 44T Alloy
FORK:	All New 100% CR-MO Landing Gear, w/ Internally Threaded Steerer Tube
FRAME:	100% Cr-Mo Tubing, Classic Double Downtube, Looptail Rear End, Retro Dropouts, Limited Edition, Individually Numbered
FRONT DERAILLEUR:	NA
GRIPS/TAPE:	S-1E Retro Grip
HANDLEBAR:	CR-MO Powerwing Bar, 28.5" X 8.25"
HEADSET:	Tange Alloy DX4, 1-1/8" Threadless
LEVERS:	Tektro 313A, 2 Finger Alloy
PEDALS:	X-Pedo Low Profile Platform w/ Removable Pins
REAR DERAILLEUR:	NA
REAR SHOCK:	NA
SADDLE:	SE Lightning Blitz Seat w/ Bottle Opener
SEATPOST:	Retro Fluted Micro-Adjust, Aluminum 25.4mm
SHIFTERS:	NA
STEM:	Retro Top Load w/ Engraved SE Logo, 1-1/8" Alloy
TIRES:	Tioga Comp III Re-Issue 2.125 F, 1.75 R
WHEELSET:	Rim :Alex Supra Dome, 36H Double Wall Aluminum , 14Ga. Stainless Spokes , Hubs: SE Racing High Flange Alloy, Sealed Bearing, Cr-Mo Axle

GT Fly BMX Bike

2010-03-18T17:58:00.001+07:00

Ready to earn your bike jumping wings? The entry-level Fly BMX bike will get you into the air faster than you say Amelia Earhart. And thanks to its rugged chromoly frame and fork and Alex G303 aluminum rims fitted with Kenda K-Rad and Kenda Konxsion tires, you can stick the landing with confidence.

Heavy-duty chromoly frame and fork provide extra strength for those hard hits
Chromoly, 3-piece tubular crank delivers the stiffness, durability and power you need to make the next double
Tektro FX340R brakes offer unsurpassed braking power
Kenda K-Rad and Kenda Konxsion tires set the stage for all your street or dirt-worthy ventures
Rugged Alex G303, aluminum rims with jump-tough axles are perfect for jumping and stunts

BOTTOM BRACKET:	Mid size sealed bearings, 8 spline Cr-Mo axle
BRAKES:	Front: Alloy side-pull caliper; Rear: Tektro, FX340R, coil spring, melt forged aluminum U-brake
CASSETTE:	9T
CHAIN:	KMC Z510
CRANKSET:	2010 design tubular Cr-mo 3pc., thread-in chainwheel pin, 8 spline, single bolt clamping, 175mm / 2010 design 25T steel GT chainwheel
FORK:	2010 GT dirt/street design, Cr-Mo 1-1/8" steer, 31.8mm hi-ten blades, 6mmT. Dropouts
FRAME:	Updated GT dirt design, cr-mo down tube, new 19mm SS, new DT gusset, new CS and CS bridge, new dropout, Mid BB, machined headtube, seat stay mounted U-brake
FRONT DERAILLEUR:	NA
GRIPS/TAPE:	GT Wing shroom design
HANDLEBAR:	'07 GT dirt/street dual radius bend, Hi-Ten, 7" rise
HEADSET:	Tange Seiki FATTY 22, extra deep cup engagement, 1-1/8" threadless
LEVERS:	Tektro, XL320, aluminum
PEDALS:	GT Dirt/Street platform design, PC material, cr-mo alxe
REAR DERAILLEUR:	NA
REAR SHOCK:	NA
SADDLE:	'09 GT Slim mini street design, 8mm rails
SEATPOST:	Aluminum, 25.4 x 200mm
SHIFTERS:	NA
STEM:	2010 GT freestyle drop design, machined GT logo
TIRES:	Front: Kenda K-Rad 2.125" Rear: Kenda Konxsion 2.1"
WHEELSET:	Rims: Alex G303, aluminum, 32/36 hole, 31mm width; Front Hub: Steel body, 3/8" hi-carbon axle, 32 hole; Rear Hub: GT branded alloy body, cassette with 9T one piece driver, 14mm hi-carbon axle, 36 hole

Mongoose Supergoose Elite BMX Bike - Performance Exclusive

2010-03-18T17:55:00.001+07:00

he same bike ridden by the 2008 China Olympic BMX Team!

6061 aluminum frame with chromoly fork delivers tough-as-nails performance while remaining exceptionally light and rigid
3-piece tubular chromoly cranks with a 44T aluminum crank guarantee a light, stiff and durable ride
T.H.E. Dice saddle won't get in your way when you're racin' or just showing off
Tektro 930 V-brakes offer excellent stopping power
Kenda Small Block tires with smaller knobs provide incredible grip and traction
Alienation PBR race rims with 36H sealed aluminum hubs are perfect for jumping and racing
Protective T.H.E. padset and number plate are the perfect accessories for your next race

BOTTOM BRACKET:	Euro Sealed Bearing 8-spline
BRAKES:	Tektro 930 V-Brake
CASSETTE:	16T Cog
CHAIN:	KMC Z-610H
CRANKSET:	3-piece Tubular Chromoly 175mm, 44T Aluminum ring
FORK:	Chromoly Legs and Steerer
FRAME:	6061 Aluminum
FRONT DERAILLEUR:	NA
GRIPS/TAPE:	Alienation Mr. Hand
HANDLEBAR:	Mongoose Chromoly 2-piece
HEADSET:	FSA Intellaset, 1 1/8"
LEVERS:	Tektro Talon Alloy
PEDALS:	Wellgo Alloy with replaceable pins
REAR DERAILLEUR:	NA
REAR SHOCK:	NA
SADDLE:	T.H.E. Dice
SEATPOST:	25.4 Aluminum Micro-adjust
SHIFTERS:	NA
STEM:	Mongoose Ultralight 50mm ext
TIRES:	Kenda Small Block 2.1" and 1.95"
WHEELSET:	Rims: Alienation PBR 36H; Hubs: Alloy Sealed 3/8" axle

Forté Carve MTB Pedal

2010-03-18T17:53:00.001+07:00

Carve your way through the trails with this rugged mountain bike pedal!

Mud-shedding, aluminum body with chromoly spindle provides lightweight strength for maximum power output
Add 5° of float, dual-sided entry and adjustable tension with visual indicator for a pedal that can really dish out the dirt
Cleats and hardware included

ADJUSTMENTS:	Tension
FLOAT:	5 degrees
MATERIAL:	Aluminum body/Chromoly spindle
SHOE COMPATIBILITY:	2-bolt SPD-Style
WEIGHT:	295g

Customized city bikes from Beick

2010-03-15T20:53:00.003+07:00

I first posted a design by Angelo Jansen (his GSUS concept bike) about two years ago. Since that time, Angelo has been working on another interesting design project. Beick.nl is a Dutch website where customers can customize and purchase the Beick city bike online. As you choose from the different options available, you see a very nicely rendered representation of the bike you are making on the site. The website is in Dutch, so I couldn’t understand everything, but I had fun clicking around to look at the various options. On the website, you can switch views and look at detail areas as you change the bike’s colors, components, features, etc. The different set-up options that you can choose for the bike are based on sub-assemblies, which reduce the stock of complete bikes while providing the customer more options. Plastic covers are used for the various color and graphic options, again reducing the need to stock a great number of different SKUs.

Angelo partnered on the design of this bike with Jorrit Schoonhoven, the chief designer for Batavus, and he made a point to say that Jorrit “deserves special attention for his inspiration and support.” The background information that Angelo provided about the design is pretty interesting, so I want to share some of that with you (in his own words slightly edited by me):

“To understand the starting point of the concept you need to know that I am a son of a small-scale bicycle dealer in a small town. My hometown is close to the beach, in summertime full of tourists and empty in the winter. Although my father wished that I would take over the family bike shop, I decided to stay in bike biz, though not in the bike shop. I went to business school (small business), an apprenticed in a medium sized bike factory in the Netherlands and in Taiwan where the bike industry really caught my heart. I went back to Europe to work three years for Shimano before I started my own company; initially just trading, but step-by-step creating tailor made products and concepts. My target is to develop bike concepts for regular cyclists, and try to encourage cycling for non-cyclists (Blue ocean?).

A couple of years ago I met Jorrit Schoonhoven, who at the time owned an industrial design company, with brands like Coca Cola, Nike, Heineken, etc. as his customers. Jorrit had designed a Shimano Design Contest award-winning concept bike for Batavus called “Maximum Double Orange” (pictured here)

When I started to work with Jorrit we had the following starting points:

1. Create regular bikes (no exotic bicycle design and useless features)

2. Use industrial design to improve biz processes (logistics, QC & QA)

The Maximum Double Orange was already a bike based on sub-assemblies, though looked pretty exotic for European standard. It was more of a “designer bike” to win contests and get press attention, but not really a commercial product. This is where a lot of people in bike industry lost confidence in the concept and this is where I started to believe in the concept. I did not look at it as a bike, but looked at the bike as a business model and have to admit the concept is brilliant. Jorrit agreed that the the appearance was a bit to far away for the average person, so we started to develop what ended up to be Beick.

Our strategy was to add more consumer value in the bike. In Europe luggage carriers are very popular, but the choice of carriers on certain bikes is close to none. If you want to order a bike with front carrier, you need to order a transport bike. A sports bike (Nexus 7, trekking bar) with front carrier is very hard to find.

This is why we ship the bikes in sub-assemblies. The bike is divided in 4 main sections:

1. Drivetrain- rear frame, rear wheel
2. Front- front frame & fork, front wheel
3. Steering assembly
4. Seat

In order to create your own bike you can accessorize your bike with locks, carriers, kickstands, child seats, etc. Finally you can personalize your bike. The bike itself is always in one color, you color your bike with plastic covers (colors & graphics).”

Shocker chopper and assorted links

2010-03-15T20:51:00.001+07:00

I am a bit overwhelmed with work this week, so this will be another one of those quick posts full of unrelated links. Hopefully you will all find something of interest.

Sven from Team Tentakulus sent me these pictures of the limited edition cruiser bike, Shocker Chopper, which they recently created under the “11 bikes” brand. He mentioned in his message that “the bike is not everybody’s cup of tea especially not for people with weak nerves,” but that it “stands out from normal cruisers by a clear structured concept.” The guys behind 11 bikes plan to introduce three to four new bike designs each year. As Sven pointed out, “Shocker is the starter – more puristic appearing bikes will follow, but all with the focus on function, usability and convenience.”

Kyality pointed out these Graphite and Milk bike renderings that recently appeared on Industrial Design Served. My first though upon seeing these renderings was that those carbon frame elements look mighty thin for a commuter-oriented design.

Another bike that has been hitting the design blogs lately is this hubless wheel concept by John Villarreal. The renderings look slick, but I have expressed my concerns about hubless wheels for bicycles in several past posts, most recently this one. Hubless designs for bikes come in waves, and one of those waves seems to be peaking right now. The hubless trend even caught the attention of Bike Snob NYC, who expressed his concerns in a recent post.

Dave Moulton recently did a talk in Charleston on the subject of Bicycle Evolution (one that I hated to miss). His post outlining the lecture is definitely worth checking out

Cyclelicious points out the 2010 Xtracycle Radish longtail, designed with the help of Rivendell’s Grant Petersen.

Finally, I will mention this BikeBiz article about Rock Racing’s plan to produce a line of bikes. Déjà vu, right? I wouldn’t even bother to mention it if not for the teaser picture referenced in the article. I will admit that I am kind of interested in seeing these bikes…if they ever do really come out.

Mystic 20

2010-03-15T14:25:00.001+07:00

Dialed for Fun

Packed with Dialed features for an age-appropriate fit, the Mystic 20 is made to grow with your child and provide them with a fun ride. Dialed pedals, grips and saddle are just the right size and combine with the durable frame for a super-fun package.

Frameset
Sizes	20" Dialed frame size
Frame	Alpha White Aluminum, 20" Dialed frame size
Fork	High tensile steel
Wheels
Wheels	Steel front hub, coaster brake rear hub; aluminum 36-hole 20" rims
Tires	Cross knobby, 20x1.95"
Drivetrain
Crank	Dialed 4.5", 32T
Cassette	19T cog
Pedals	Dialed 20" size, platform
Components
Saddle	Dialed 20" size, padded
Seat Post	Steel
Handlebars	Dialed 20" size, steel
Stem	Alloy and steel, four bolt
Headset	Adjustable ball bearing
Brakeset	Coaster and rear linear pull brake w/Dialed alloy lever
Components	Single speed; coaster brake
Accessories
Extras	Kickstand; chainguard; pads; basket and tassels

Jet 20

2010-03-15T14:23:00.001+07:00

Dialed for Fun

Packed with Dialed features for an age-appropriate fit, the Jet 20 is made to grow with your child and provide them with a fun ride. Dialed pedals, grips and saddle are just the right size and combine with the durable frame for a super-fun package.

Frameset
Sizes	20" Dialed frame size
Frame	Alpha White Aluminum, 20" Dialed frame size
Fork	High tensile steel
Wheels
Wheels	Steel front hub, coaster brake rear hub; aluminum 36-hole 20" rims
Tires	Cross knobby, 20x1.95"
Drivetrain
Crank	Dialed 4.5", 32T
Cassette	19T cog
Pedals	Dialed 20" size, platform
Components
Saddle	Dialed 20" size, padded
Seat Post	Steel
Handlebars	Dialed 20" size, steel
Stem	Alloy and steel, four bolt
Headset	Adjustable ball bearing
Brakeset	Coaster and rear linear pull brake w/Dialed alloy lever
Components	Single speed; coaster brake
Accessories
Extras	Kickstand; chainguard; pads; moto fenders and number plate

Drift 20

2010-03-15T14:21:00.001+07:00

Cruise in Style

If your child craves the sweet styling of a Trek Cruiser, the Drift 20 fits the bill. Its durable aluminum frame is enhanced with old-school fenders, laid-back handlebars, and a full-coverage chainguard for an all-around spiffy package.

Frameset
Sizes	20" Dialed frame size
Frame	Alpha White Aluminum
Fork	High tensile steel
Wheels
Wheels	Steel front hub, coaster brake rear hub; aluminum 36-hole 20" rims
Tires	Kenda K130 Cruiser, 20x2.125"
Drivetrain
Crank	Steel 1 piece, 40T
Cassette	19T
Pedals	Dialed 20" size, platform
Components
Saddle	Junior Cruiser saddle w/chrome rails
Seat Post	Steel
Handlebars	Cruiser steel
Stem	Alloy two bolt
Headset	Adjustable ball bearing
Brakeset	Coaster
Components	Single speed; coaster brake
Accessories
Extras	Kickstand; fenders; chainguard

Atwood WSD

2010-03-15T14:18:00.001+07:00

A Better Bicycle

Designed front-to-back to lessen manufacturing impact, the Atwood is the perfect choice for anyone looking for an eco-smart bike. Sharing the upright riding position of our FX family, Atwood combines comfort and versatility into a kinder, more environmentally friendly package.

Frameset
Sizes	Women's 15, 17"
Frame	Steel Urban
Fork	High tensile steel w/lowrider mounts
Wheels
Wheels	Alloy front hub, Shimano RM30 rear hub; alloy 36-hole rims
Tires	Bontrager H2 Eco Design, 700x35c
Drivetrain
Shifters	Shimano EF50 trigger, 7 speed
Front Derailleur	Shimano M191
Rear Derailleur	Shimano Acera
Crank	Shimano M151 48/38/28 w/chainguard
Cassette	SRAM PG730 11-32, 7 speed
Pedals	Steel city
Components
Saddle	Bontrager Nebula Eco Design
Seat Post	Steel
Handlebars	Trek Urban Alloy
Stem	Steel Quill, 25 degree rise
Headset	Steel, semi-cartridge
Brakeset	Tektro V w/Shimano EF50 levers

3rd District

2010-03-15T14:11:00.002+07:00

All That Glitters

A District should look as awesome as it is to ride. That’s where the 3rd District is coming from. Polished parts and a clean white body mixed with a chain drive singlespeed gave us reason to find one more accent color. We chose Air Force blue. We’ll give you one guess why.

Frameset
Sizes	50, 54, 56, 58, 60cm
Frame	Alpha Black Aluminum
Fork	Bontrager Satellite Plus, carbon
Wheels
Wheels	Alloy sealed bearing track hub; aero alloy color matched rims
Tires	Bontrager Race, All Weather, 700x25c
Drivetrain
Shifters	n/a
Front Derailleur	n/a
Rear Derailleur	n/a
Crank	Bontrager Nebula SS 44T chain ring w/guard
Cassette	Shimano 17T freewheel
Pedals	VP Track, alloy body/cage
Components
Saddle	Bontrager Race
Seat Post	Bontrager Satellite Nebula
Handlebars	Bontrager Urban
Stem	Bontrager Approved, alloy, 15 degree
Headset	Cartridge bearings, sealed
Brakeset	Alloy dual pivot w/Tektro road levers

Powercranks X-Lite

2010-03-13T18:42:00.001+07:00

Highly effective tool for perfecting your pedal stroke but requires diligence and persistence for maximum benefit

A training device that isn't for everyone

More often than not, new bicycle purchases are all about instant gratification: lighter weight, faster speeds, better aesthetics, smoother running. But in the case of Powercranks, you pay an awful lot of money for an ungainly-looking boat anchor of a crank that's exceedingly frustrating to ride at first.

However, we've come across no other piece of equipment that's so effective at improving your pedal stroke – provided you're willing to put in the requisite training time.

Dual one-way clutches allow each crankarm to operate fully independently, meaning both arms can freewheel backwards on their own and your downward leg can't help the upward one during a pedal stroke. As such, it's solely up to you to keep your feet moving in circles and the two crankarms in alignment. Easy, right? Think again.

Our first rides on the Powercranks were done indoors in late winter 2008 and were an exercise in humility. Whereas we could normally head out for six hours, we could only maintain pedal alignment on the Powercranks for about 15 minutes before our hip flexors and shins were utterly shattered.

However, we immediately noted that the cranks highlighted deficiencies in what we previously thought was a very smooth and even pedal stroke. Specifically, we discovered issues coming up and over the top on the left side, and different upstroke speeds between the two sides in general, due to a previously hidden muscular imbalance.

Even just a week of regular use on the trainer began to even out those differences and we eventually built up to a 45-minute threshold, so out we went for a quick sub-hour loop. Ever tried getting started from a standstill with both pedals swinging freely at the 6 o'clock position? Neither had we, and not surprisingly traffic lights proved challenging, as were corners where we had to consciously hold our inside foot up and away from the pavement. Ditto for out-of-saddle pedalling, which was particularly comical until we got the timing right.

We eventually settled into a rhythm, though, and things began to feel more natural aside from the fact that we couldn't maintain as high a cadence as usual and a normally modest pace suddenly felt like an awful lot of work. Still, an hour was about our limit for nearly a month before our hip flexors, hamstrings and shins built up to the task and it was a full two months before we could ride the Powercranks with any semblance of normality.

So why bother, you ask?

Later on we gradually weaned ourselves off the Powercranks and regularly swapped back and forth onto standard, fixed cranks. In addition to feeling worlds easier, the obvious changes were a much improved pedal stroke overall and the ability to maintain a faster cadence with less bouncing in the saddle.

Were we faster as a result? Unfortunately, a single-user test format like this makes it impossible to separate the effects of using Powercranks versus simply riding more, as we were. Intuitively, a smoother and more efficient pedal stroke should yield more speed with lower energy consumption, and after using Powercranks for several months, we certainly felt lighter on our feet.

It's worth noting, however, that Powercranks' effectiveness – ie. whether or not they actually make you faster – is still very much a topic of debate in the scientific community. In short, no one seems to be able to prove without a reasonable doubt that a smoother stroke really does equate to a more powerful one.

"Cycling power is all derived from extension, or the contraction of quadriceps and gluteals," says Boulder Center for Sports Medicine cycling biomechanist Sean Madsen. "Quads extend the knee; glutes extend the hip. Many EMG [electromyography] studies have been performed to show this. So if the vast majority of our cycling power is derived from extension, the flexion muscle groups' (hamstrings, psoas and gastrocnemius/sloeus) primary purpose are to recover the leg and get ready for extension again.

"There can be very little 'positive' force, or force that propels a bike forward, on the 'backside' or flexion phase of the cycling stroke. Any positive force on the backside of the pedal stroke is grossly outweighed by the positive force on the power phase or extension of the other leg. Accentuating a weaker part of the pedal stroke, ie. pulling up on the backside, is not an effective use of available power.

"The flexion group is definitely weaker than the extension group, typically only 60-70 percent as strong. So, emphasis of a weaker muscle group, either by consciously pulling up on the backside of the pedal stroke or being positioned too far aft, won't lead to increased cycling power."

Still, Madsen admits that the subject is anything but settled and that more rigorous studies need to be performed. "Is it more effective to spin a smooth circle or mash?" he asked. "The answer is... I don't know. Defining pedalling efficiency is a difficult task. What is the metabolic cost of emphasising weaker muscle groups versus just concentrating on the prime movers?

"If you look at the pedal revolution as a sine wave (degrees of revolution on the X axis and force applied on the Y axis) you see peaks of high power and valleys of less power. Mathematically, you can improve efficiency by decreasing the amplitude of this sine wave: make the valleys less low and you don't have to use as much maximal power per revolution. This is the effect that pedalling in circles is trying to achieve.

"The undefined thing here is that in doing this you are actually increasing the usage of muscle groups that can't contribute a significant positive force in pedalling. How much can you recruit these ancillary muscle groups without sacrificing the power generation of the main muscle groups? I don't know."

Theory and various disputed scientific studies aside, one other interesting fact is the number of pros who are reportedly training on these (including a multi-time US national champion, a now-retired Paris-Roubaix winner and a perennial grand tour contender), albeit in secret as the supposed Powercranks riders we contacted either categorically denied using them or simply didn't respond. Whether that was due to sponsorship conflicts or a desire to keep a 'secret weapon' to themselves is impossible to say but noteworthy nonetheless.

Heavy but well built

There are no two ways around this: Powercranks are heavy, and even our milled-out X-Lite version weighs a substantial 1,374g without the requisite old-school bottom bracket or chainrings, neither of which are included in the US$1,199 asking price.

Most of the weight is centred on the clutch mechanisms with their steel cores and rows of needle bearings but the massive 7,000-series aluminium arms don’t exactly help. Powercranks doesn't intend for these to be used for racing, though, so in that respect the extra mass can be viewed as simply another training aid.

To maximise the versatility, the effective crankarm length is adjustable from 165-182.5mm and the disc-shaped chainring spider is drilled for all three major bolt patterns – Campagnolo (135mm), Shimano/SRAM/FSA standard (130mm) and compact (110mm). The compact one requires the use of additional washers, however, which negatively affects the chainline so we don't recommend using it.

Installation is straightforward enough though not entirely business as usual given the one-way clutch mechanisms but the detailed instructions do a good job of walking you through the process.

Overall build quality is very high with both clutches holding up well during our lengthy test period with no slop, slip or appreciable wear to note. Servicing the clutches is a shockingly simple process (simply unscrew the outer caps and pull the arms off) but potential buyers in wet climes will want to note that the mechanisms aren't sealed well so you'll likely have to do it fairly often.

Lots of pain at a high price but potentially a lot of benefit, too

Whether or not the Powercranks make sense to you will depend on how much importance you place on your physical performance as a rider. Similar money spent elsewhere will undoubtedly net you a heady amount of flash but the Powercranks will actually improve the engine, not just the machine – and despite the controversy surrounding the improved power output, the effect on pedalling smoothness is undeniable.

The price of entry is very high (stick with the standard version instead of the X-Lites), the learning curve slow and painful, and you'd better be prepared for some ridicule from your mates – but if you're willing to deal with the hurdles there's a tangible payoff at the end.

Electric Bike Conversion System - FRONT w/ LiFePO4

2010-03-13T18:31:00.001+07:00

Speed: 20 MPH / Range: 12-30 miles
Charging Time 2 Hours 45 Minutes with 3.5amp Charger

The E-BikeKit™ Complete Conversion System offers the ultimate electric bicycle conversion solution. The complete system has everything you need "out of the box" to convert your conventional bike into a high-quality electric bike.

The Complete System Includes Both the E-BikeKit™ Conversion Kit and the E-BikeKit™ brand LiFePo4 battery and charger.

With this system you can expect to go from 12-30 miles on a full charge depending on the weight of the rider, the amount of pedaling and the route.

This complete conversion system with LiFePO4 battery pack offers both e-bike novices and experienced electric bicycle riders safety, power, convenience and reliability. Engineered to comply with USA Federal guidelines the E-BikeKit™ system is "Dealer Friendly" and requires no insurance or licensing in most states. If you are deciding whether to convert your existing bike or to buy a complete electric bike you should know that bikes converted with the E-BikeKit™ Complete Conversion System are comparable to complete electric bikes costing more than $2500. The E-BikeKit™ Complete Conversion System is simply the best conversion system available.

PLEASE NOTE: Front wheel conversions require a bike with steel forks.

Front Wheel: w/ 500-750 Watt Brushless Hub Motor
Rim:Flat profile double-walled
Spokes: 13 Gauge
Hub Weight: 14 Pounds
Hub Width: 85mm / 3.35 Inches (requires standard 100mm width between fork dropouts)
Top Speed: 20 MPH
Power/Torque: 36V/500W/430 RPM No Load
Range: 12-30 Miles
**All dependent on battery type, weight of rider, amount of pedaling, route and weather conditions.

E-BikeKit™ Conversion Kit Includes:

1 x Front Wheel w/ 500-750 Watt Brushless Hub Motor
1 x 36 Volt 22 Amp Intelligent Motor Controller (works w/ any 36v or 48v battery pack)
1 x Twist or Thumb Throttle & Matching Grip
2 x E-Brake Handles w/ Electric Cutoff Switches
1 x Battery Harness Wire (for connecting any 36v or 48v battery)
1 x Universal Stainless Steel Torque Arm (a must have for safety)
15 x Black Zip Ties (3 sizes for neatly securing wiring to the frame)
1 x 2.5mm Metric Hex Key (to mount the throttle)
1 x E-Bike Spoke Wrench
1 x Owner's Manual & Installation Instructions
1 x E-BikeKit™ T-Shirt
*Standard Anderson Powerpole 30Amp Connectors

E-BikeKit™ 9AH LiFePo4 Battery & 2.0 Amp Charger Standard:

1 x Smart Charger (Constant Current 2.0A – Constant Voltage 43.6V)
1 x 14 AWG battery wire harness
Battery Weight: 9 Pounds

Industry Leading 18 Month Warranty

LiFePo4 Battery Packs are warranted for a period of 1 Year or 18 months from the date of purchase depending on the battery purchased. A pack will be deemed defective if it fails to deliver 80% of nominal capacity within 1 year of purchase when discharged at 1.5C with a static resistive load following full charge with an approved charger. The E-BikeKit™ 36v 10ah Prismatic LiFePo4 will be deemed defective if it fails to deliver any discharge within 12-18 months of purchase when discharged at 1.5C with a static resistive load following full charge with an approved charger.

Nova 7sp aluminum folding bicycle

2010-03-13T14:23:00.001+07:00

New Nova lightweight aluminum folding bicycle brings our innovation to a lower entry level price point. The bike is superlight at 24lbs with aluminum frame and components. Includes a Shimano 7sp drivetrain, which is great for the hills and flats. Folding pedals, and height adjustable stems are nice additions to the value leader. The frame hinge is licensed from Dahon, and the stem uses a Brompton screw style. Front derailleur mount is welded onto the frame, hence this can quickly turn into a 21sp bike.

Specifications:

FORK 20" steel threadless unicrown type,TIG welded
HANDLEBAR Aluminum 560mm
HANDLEBAR STEM Height adjustable aluminum 28.6mm (OD) 25.4mm (ID) 400mm
HEADSET Integrated SEAT POST 30.4mm (OD) 550mm
CRANK Prowheel 170mm with 3/32" 46T chainring
CHAIN GUARD Prowheel Plastic double guard
PEDALS foldable alloy 9/16" axle
CHAIN KMC Z50 1/2"*3/32" 112L
TIRES KENDA K177 20"* 1.2"
RIMS Dino VP-20 alloy 20"*1.5" 14G*28H
SPOKES & NIPPLES 14G*56pcs steel spokes, W/short brass nipples
FRONT HUB JOYTECH 28H with quickrelease
REAR HUB JOYTECH 28H 130mm rear quickrelease
R/DERAILLEUR Shimano D-TZ50D
SHIFTER(S) Shimano gripshift
FREEWHEEL Shimano MF-TZ07
FRONT BRAKE C Star 958DX aluminum V-brake
REAR BRAKE C Star 958DX aluminum V-brake
BRAKE LEVERS C Star 322DG