Bike Touring Canada. Cycling across Canada from Vancouver to Toronto.

Cycling from Vancouver to Toronto Video

2014-09-01T01:47:00.001-07:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Znb3Nr2_ug

It Was The Best of Times, The Worst of Times!

2011-09-22T22:40:00.000-07:00

Trip Statistics:
Total distance: 4781km
Total riding time: 228 hours, 56 minutes
Number of days: 38 days including 1 rest day
Average speed: 20.9km/h
Average distance per riding day: 129.2km
Longest day: 201km from Marathon to Wawa

Accommodations:
Camping: 34 nights including 5 nights of guerrilla camping
Hostels: 3 nights
Motels: 1 night

Quirky Facts:
Number of calories normally required daily to maintain body weight: 2578 calories
Approximate number of calories burned during a 129.2km ride: Over 5000 calories
Weight of panniers/equipment attached to bike: 65lbs
Weight of bike: 35lbs
My weight before trip: 211lbs
My weight after trip: 181lbs
Number of flat tires: 0 (Vittoria Randoneur tires are amazing)
Equipment failures: 1 chain, 1 derailleur and 1 worn out tire
Other cyclists I met: 22 (including 4 soloists)
Encounters with people walking around the world: 2
Friendly bear encounters: 7
Road kill count: 286 animals including birds.
Most inspiring adventure: Dana Meise's 7 year, 22 000km walk. Dana was lugging a 60lb backpack through the wilderness and will be the first person to walk the Trans Canada Trail. Special mention to the grandfather who set the new record for cycling across Canada in 13 days. Unfortunately, I never got to meet him.

10 Favourite Moments:
1) The RVer's at the campgrounds. They tell great stories and cooked good dinners.
2) Drivers in B.C. honking and cheering on the mountain climbs.
3) Saskatchewan hospitality. It was impossible to buy your own beer at the pubs in small towns.
4) People. Everyone has a story to tell and all were friendly.
5) The beauty of the Crowsnest Highway through B.C. and the 5 bears on day 2 through Manning Park.
6) The retired cyclists from Montreal. Stayed at the same campgrounds in parts of B.C. and all of Alberta. Bumped into them again in Northern Ontario.
7) Other cyclists crossing the road. Always lots to say.
8) The Ontario Provincial Police. These guys always had your back. Thanks for the chocolate bars.
9) Swerving around a bear that crossed the road near Creston. I could have patted it on the head.
10) Complete and utter freedom every hour every day. Loved waking up in the morning.

10 Worst Moments:
1) The flooding in Manitoba. Sad to see so many farmers getting wiped out.
2) Brushing up against the side of a semi in Northern Ontario. That was close...
3) Headwinds across the prairies. Tougher than climbing mountain passes.
4) Getting pelted by rocks picked up off the road by the wind between Kenora and Dryden.
5) Climbing the Crowsnest Pass on a stormy 5 degree morning and almost getting blown off my bike by an 80km/h gust of wind near the summit.
6) Road kill. There was too much of it.
7) Ontario Provincial Park Campgrounds. The motels were cheaper.
8) The road outside of Thunder Bay. As one cyclist put it, "The worst roads in the world are in Kazakhstan, but this is worst than Kazakhstan."
9) Mosquitoes, black flies and horse flies.
10) Hail and Lightning storms on the prairies. On the prairies there's nowhere to hide.

5 Interesting Characters I Met Along The Way:
1) Dana Meise: Walking 22 000km along the Trans Canada Trail.
2) Jean Beliveau: 11 years, 64 countries and over 75 000km. He's walking around the world
3) Pierre Deroi: Professional Adventurer. Rowed the Atlantic, cycled from Paris to Beijing, pulled a 180kg sled across Greenland and cycled from Vancouver to Montreal in 31 days.
4) Lloyd and Willa: Owners of the hostel in Thunder Bay. After spending their lives traveling the world, the world now comes to them. Recently sponsored 200 Karen Burmese refugees.
5) Matt: Who needs a wallet when you have a ukulele? Busking to raise funds in every major city, he is slowly working his way from East to West. A true adventurer who doesn't mind getting lost along the way.

Would I do it again?
In a heart beat. Life seems too ordinary without the great adventures so go for it!

"It is only when we truly know and understand that we have a limited time on earth and that we have no way of knowing when our time is up that we will begin to live each day to the fullest, as if it were the only one we had."
Elizabeth Kubler-Ross

Day 38, July 6th, Owen Sound to Toronto!! (196km)

2011-07-06T22:12:00.000-07:00

CN Tower Toronto

It rained hard last night. At quarter to 4, the rain started pelting my tent like a thousand drumsticks. Then the lightning started. First, it was comfortably far away. Then it got close, really close. The bolts were so bright, I could feel the heat. Simultaneously, thunder roared. I kind of chuckled. If you're gonna strike me down, take your best shot. I had made up my mind. Today, I'd go for broke. By the end of the day, I'd be in Toronto or cycling towards it in the dark.

By 6am, the rain had slowed down. For the first time on the trip, the inside of my tent got soaked. It was warm and humid night. My tent had trapped the moisture and the heat kind of like a sauna. Oh well, I thought, at least I'll have a wet jersey to keep me cool today. By 6:30am, I started to pack up camp for the final time. It took me till 9am to hit the road, everything was soaked.

Dodgy Highway 6

The hills outside Owen Sound are steep. Yesterday, a pickup truck turning left onto the hill had dropped a tool box onto the road. It slid across the lane, missing my front wheel by inches as it ricocheted loudly into the curb. That could have been bad. I stopped and dragged the tool box off the road. The pickup truck driver stopped too. He apologized and told me years ago, he'd done the same trip. We shook hands, laughed and joked about the great adventure. Later, I made my way to the campground. Today, I tackled the remaining hills on the way to Chatsworth. Highway 6 is rough south of Owen Sound. It has one lane, broken pavement on the shoulder and busy traffic. I was glad to get on to highway 10 even if conditions were only marginally better.

Coutryside Hayfields

The winds were with me. Better yet, they were fierce. Thanks to the tailwind, my bike was flying. Climbing the last few hills near Chatsworth, I got the bike up to just under 40km/h for almost 1 1/2 hours. My legs were feeling powerful and I didn't want to break the rhythm of my cadence. From Chatsworth to Shelburne, I worked the cranks as hard as I could. It had been a late start and Toronto was still far away. The race was with daylight even though it was still morning. Hitting Shelburne, I stopped for lunch. The food was good at the bar. A couple of guys bought me a beer. There's so many people who would give up a lot for the chance to do a trip like this.

Wind Turbines Near Shelburne

In a rush but not wanting to be rude, I left as quick as I could. Cycling at a furious pace, I marveled at the wind turbines near Shelburne. They are massive up close. The powerful wind was blowing the wrong way so the blades weren't spinning. With the wind still at my back, Orangeville appeared on the horizon. The hills appeared too. Locals at the bar had warned me about these hills but they didn't look that bad. Having a tailwind certainly helped. I gunned it up the slope going 21km/h. Hitting the crest, I recklessly cruised down the back hitting speeds of over 70km/h.

Somewhere on Highway 10

In Brampton, it got interesting. I didn't have a local map and highway 10 suddenly became the 410. A sign indicated no bicycles were permitted but the highway had a shoulder. Ignoring the sign, the temptation of riding on a shoulder drew me forward. Minutes later, I saw flashing lights. Great! It was the OPP, they were pulling me over. The cop was really nice. He told me to take the next exit and didn't even bother giving me a warning. He said I could get to the western edge of Toronto by following one of the back roads south through Mississauga. He had a lot of questions about the trip. I ascertained that it's the type of adventure he wants to do himself one day. Entering Brampton, I found myself on the wrong side of the tracks. The hood was rough but talking about the adventure made everyone loosen up. Cops slowed down to take a look at drug dealers talking to a guy on a bike. It must have been a peculiar sight. The dealers told me to avoid Church Street when I hit Toronto. Even they didn't have the guts to visit that part of town. Asking for directions at a gas station, the girl told me to follow Bovaird and make a right on Airport Road. Bovaird isn't designed for bikes. Traffic zoomed inches from the drop downs on my handlebars. The 410 was a lot safer then this, but ironically, Bovaird was legal.

Pearson Airport from Airport Road

I paused at the Mcdonalds, a block from Airport Road, to check out google maps. Airport Road would go close to the city. The road wasn't any better for bicycles. Drivers honked, as I aggressively fought for space. It wasn't long before Pearson Airport appeared in the distance. Pausing to watch the planes land, a young couple gave me more directions. Staying on the Airport road, I kept going South. A guy pointed me towards a bike path that would take me to Lake Ontario. On the path, a cyclist broke his chain. I stopped to help him fix it and he gave me his bike map of the city. He escorted me until we hit the parking lot where he had parked his car. The bike path's out here are beautiful. They follow wooded ravines along the rivers.

Toronto Skyline from Lake Ontario

Keeping on the path, I passed through York and eventually got to Lake Ontario. In the distance, the CN tower loomed over the city. I asked a couple more cops about the locations of hostels. They held me up with questions about the ride. I didn't want to be rude, but it was getting late. Wanting to be at the heart of the action, I headed for King and Spadina. Global Backpackers is at the center of town. The bar is good and my roomates have great stories. It's been an epic adventure but it had to end. Maybe one day I'll ride through Eastern Canada, it's supposed to be beautiful. For now, this story ends on King and Spadina in the heart of Toronto.

Sailboats Along Lake Ontario

Distance: 196km
Average Speed: 25.8km/h
Maximum Speed: 71.2km/h
Time: 7:36
Odometer: 4781km End of Trip!

Day 37, July 5th, Tobermory to Owen Sound, (145km)

2011-07-05T18:39:00.000-07:00

Georgian Bluffs Along Georgian Bay

Yesterday, on the Chi-Cheemaun ferry, a local said it best. "Take the scenic routes it's worth the extra miles." Today his words came to fruition. I'm really not in a rush to get to Toronto. Heading out on highway 6, I found PJ's Country Restaurant for breakfast just outside Ferndale. PJ was awesome. Breakfast was huge and she knew the area. "This is beautiful country," she said. "If you really want to see it take Highway 9 along the coast. Just turn left at Ferndale."

Wind Power and Hay Fields

The scenery on Highway 9 turned out to be phenomenal. This part of Ontario has had optimal weather for growing crops this year. Canola fields were brilliant yellow and the hay fields were being harvested. Every now and then, Lake Huron would come into view. Farmers waved, not many bike tourers go this way. A farmer filled my water bottles when I stopped for a chat. The road was a bit longer but its definitely worth the ride. I would recommend Highway 9 to any bike tourer riding the Bruce peninsula.

Taking a Break Along Georgian Bay

Eventually, Highway 9 got me to Wiarton. Stopping by Rexall to top off my supplies, the cashier gave me another great piece of advice. She suggested taking Highway 1 through Grey County along the coast all the way to Owen Sound. While it was a lot longer, she said the view of the Georgian Bluffs was worth the ride. Highway 1 didn't have a shoulder but there were only a few cars along the road. Skirting the coast, the bluffs appeared on the far side of the lake. It was so beautiful. Taking my time, I headed down to the boat launch to take some pictures. Walking along the beach, I had the whole place to myself. It was too hot to ride so I jumped in the lake. What an awesome feeling on a muggy day.

Highway 1 Rolling Down to the Coast

Wanting to make it to Owen Sound, I moved on. Highway 1 bends inland over a steep hill close to Indian River. I climbed the hill and looked back at Georgian Bay. The fellow who owns the farm must have the most pictures-tic farm in Canada. Rolling into Indian River, I discovered a General Store. The lady running the place is famous for having the best butter tarts in Ontario. People drive here from all over the place to buy them. I ended up buying a dozen. There's still a few left for breakfast but they might not make it till morning. The locals at the trailer park I'm camped at know where I bought them.

Canola Fields In Full Bloom

Not far from Indian River, is Owen Sound. It strikes me as a tough and gritty city. Perhaps I just came through the wrong part of town. Right down to the architecture, the downtown core reminded me of the Eastside of Vancouver. There were even a few drug attics out and about. Lunch down here was really cheap. For some reason, when you order a slice of pizza they give you two. The girl at the tourist information center was the friendliest I've met on this trip. She helped me contact a trailer park outside the city to check to see if camping was available. Camping was available and Donna gave me a tenting site for half the normal price. The residents who call this park home are nice people. A lot of them are down on there luck or older seniors with no where else to go. I'm kind of incongruous with the surroundings but everyone is so friendly that the place feels like home.

Hayfields by Owen Sound Along Highway 1

Tomorrow I'm not sure what to do. I saw a sign saying Toronto is 185km away but there's a lot of hills by Orangeville. If there's no campgrounds I might push into town. Highway 10 is reputedly busy without much of a shoulder. It's gonna be strange being in the big city after spending weeks in some really remote parts of Canada. It's only during the past couple of days that I've realized this adventure is nearing its end.

Toronto is so Close Now

Distance: 145km

Average Speed: 21.9km/h

Maximum Speed: 56.6km/h

Time: 6:50

Odometer: 4585km

Day 36, July 4th, Sheguiandah to Tobermory (58km)

2011-07-04T18:50:00.000-07:00

Chi-Cheemaun Ferry

Last night the campground was hopping. With Canada Day on Friday and Independence Day on Monday, a lot of people had made it a 4 day weekend. Batman Campground is huge, it must have over a hundred sites. At the rec hall I met a lot of people. Word spread quickly that I was the guy on the bike from Vancouver. Kids love good stories and adults like adventure. So many people came by to say hello. Throughout this whole trip, I've been lucky to hear a lot of great stories from friendly people. It was tough to escape the crowd and I didn't get back to my tent until well past midnight. The ferries sailed from South Baymouth at 7:30am or 1:30pm. I chose to sleep in and catch the later boat. The terminal was only 52km away.

Manitoulin Landscape

In the morning, an old timer told me I would have a breakfast hill to warm up my legs. It wasn't too bad and after the hill, Manitoulin Island flattened out. This island is the largest freshwater island in the world. You can see the lake along the side and beautiful rolling hay fields. The roads weren't busy and the construction crews were friendly. I really enjoyed the ride to the terminal along its quiet roads. The ferry I'm taking takes you from South Baymouth to Tobermory across the channel between Georgian Bay and Lake Huron. It's almost a 2 hour ride.

I got to the terminal an hour before the ferry. It was already full. So many people were heading home after a weekend at the cottage. There's always room for a bike so I purchased a ticket and went to the front of the line. I saw another guy with a couple of bikes. He had been in Manitoulin for a triathlon on the weekend. He gave me directions on how to get to Toronto from Tobermory. I'm only 308km away. “The hills are done,” he proclaimed.

Chi-Cheemaun Heading Towards Tobermory

The ferry ride was beautiful. From the cafeteria, you could see the islands in Georgian Bay. Cutting close to a lighthouse we rounded the bend. Tobermory appeared in the distance. I went down to the car deck to untie my bike. A bunch of bikers came by to say hello. Bikers seem to relate well to cyclists. We both know what it's like to have total freedom on the roads. It's really quite a diverse group out here. You have the tough acting, foul mouthed red necks riding their choppers but also well spoken doctors looking for new adventures. On the road we all get along. I guess the glue that binds us together is the great adventure. A few days ago, I said you are who you are in the moment when your traveling this way. As I watched a redneck help a doctor with his bike, that statement couldn't have been more true. In the city these two would have never talked. Out here, it was like they had been friends for the past twenty years.

A Few Bikes on the Ferry

First off the ferry, I pulled into the information center. I didn't want to battle the ferry traffic on a tight country road. The girl said there wasn't much between the 100km stretch from Tobermory to Owen Sound. She suggested a campground run by Mennonites at the southern edge of town. After a week of tough riding, I wanted a break. It was only a 58km day. Toronto is just over 300km away now. In so many ways, I don't want the adventure to end. Tonight I talked with a couple who's son has been posted to Sierra Leon with the Peace Corps. The pictures were awesome. Happy 4th of July to all my American friends.

Leaving South Baymouth

Distance: 58km

Average Speed: 19.6km/h

Maximum Speed: 47.1km/h

Time: 2:58

Odometer: 4440km

Day 35, July 3rd, Blind River to Sheguiandah (174km)

2011-07-04T18:01:00.000-07:00

Amish Cart & Buggy

Sitting down at Tim Hortons for dinner last night, Joseph came by to say hello. At first I was a bit surprised, Joseph is Amish and they have a reputation for being reclusive. He'd been in Blind River all day at the farmers market trying to sell his wares. Joseph makes wooden furniture and grows berries and vegetables on his 85 acre farm. Originally, he said a lot of Amish had settled on Manitoulin Island. Land is more expensive there, so 5 young families relocated to Iron Bridge. Life was difficult but they were going to give it a try. Waiting for the Grayhound to take him back, he asked if I saw any horse and buggies today. I mentioned the carriage I had seen at Iron Bridge near the store. He said that was probably his wife, she bakes and sells homemade bread. Joseph and I are about the same age and I was glad to get a better understanding of their culture. According to him, he wouldn't want to live any other way.

I think what Joseph believes is important. While some may consider him crazy he feels he lives in a historical period where there's enough technology to serve the needs of man. Perhaps for him it's the ideal balance between our wants and needs. He has time for his family and the kids. The clock he lives by is the sun in the sky. He's a happy fellow unburdened by the wants of consumerism. While I would never choose his lifestyle, I can understand the allure of simplicity. With dinner finished, he wished me the best of luck. He told me to look out for the horse and buggies going west in the morning. We shook hands and I took off. The sun was setting and camp was 5km out of town.

Serpentine River

Today my goal was to reach Espanola. Espanola is a pulp and paper town that also serves as the junction for Highway 17 and Highway 6. I plan on going south on Highway 6 and taking the Manitoulin Island ferry to Tobermory. At just over 100km, the ride to Espanola should have been easy. It was another sunny day. The morning was hot but the winds were calm and I cruised smoothly through the rolling hills. I crossed a bridge over the waterfall on the Serpentine River. Things were going great. The heat was intense so I took lots of breaks. Cruising through a series of small towns, I made it to Spanish. Espanola was less than 30km away.

Highway 6 Breaking Off to the Right

After taking a break, I battled a few more hills before arriving at the junction of Highway 17 and Highway 6. I can't say I'll miss Highway 17. It's a dangerous road to cycle on. Right until the end, the shoulder was narrow. When there was a shoulder, it was often chipped or the cracks would be filled with soft rubber that catches your wheels. Motorcyclists have the same problem. The rubber they use to fill the cracks wobbles their bikes. As I paused at the junction, a guy waved me in to Tim Hortons. He bought me an Ice Cap. I'm still amazed at all the acts of random kindness that I've experienced on this trip.

Entering Espanola, you see a massive paper mill. “More Than a Nice Paper Town,” is what the sign says. High and low I searched for somewhere to camp. The guy at Mcdonalds said there was nothing near the town. He suggested I make the trip to Manitoulin Island. It was 60km down the road and late in the day. Without much choice, I started the journey. The kid had said there might be a few small hills along the way.

Grinding up a Hill

A few small hills turned out to be the LaCloche foothills. Sharp and steep, they reminded me of the shoreline of Northern Lake Superior. The heat radiated off the pavement like a blast oven. It was tough to climb in these conditions. After a 25km struggle, I made White Fish River. The sign said this was reservation land. Rolling past the community center, an Indian came out and asked me to stop. “I have a vision,” he said, “you come from a land many moons away.” I couldn't tell if he was joking, so I said, “The land you speak of is surrounded by mountains that descend to the sea. The white man calls it Vancouver and it's 35 moons away.” The Indian introduced himself as Rising Mojo. It's the most interesting name I've come across on this trip. He said he wanted to buy me a drink. I told him that “The 36^th moon wasn't far away and that I still had a long way to go today.” He told me “No harm would come to me as I went through White Fish River lands.” Rising Mojo blessed my trip. He couldn't stop saying "For real bro," when I told him of all the things I'd seen. I think he thought I was Indian. It was such a funny chat but he was a nice guy.

Oh La La! La Cloche Hills

The land flattened out and I hit Swift River. Stiff headwinds greeted me for the rest of the way. At Swift River, they said the next campground was at Sheguiandah. I kept pushing forward. Finally making the campground I greeted the girl, “Glad to see you Batman.” The name of the campground was Batman and it's a good one. A lot of regulars come here from as far away as Toronto. I'm getting very near. Tomorrow I take a 2 hour ferry to Tobermory.

Manitoulin Island Landscape

Distance: 174km

Average Speed: 20.9km/h

Maximum Speed: 58.4km/h

Time: 8:19

Odometer: 4382km

Day 34, July 2nd, Sault Ste. Marie to Blind River (156km)

2011-07-02T17:04:00.000-07:00

Got Em! West of the Soo

Canada Day in Sault Ste. Marie! The fireworks were on display by the river. For almost an hour, they boomed in the distance. Everyone was in a happy mood. My neighbours were 2 Americans riding their choppers. They were going to Vancouver and then down to California. A couple of patch wearing gangsters came by for a chat. They loved hearing stories of my trip. On the road, you are who you are in the moment. Sometimes you make the strangest friends. Drinking with gangsters on Canada day...

View of America

The night was pretty warm. The roar of my neighbours bikes woke me up early. By 5am, they were on the road. I packed up my tent and checked out the city. The harbour was beautiful and across the bridge was the American Sault Ste. Marie. No soldiers, no guns, no sentries on boats. Hope it never changes. A local cyclist came by for a chat so I picked his brain. He told me to take highway 17b out of the city for a safer ride. This mornings route goes by little towns with interesting names. Bruce Mines, Thessalon, Iron Bridge and Blind River were the towns I cycled through today.

Land Disputes

Recently, highway 17b has been a source of conflict. It runs through the Ojibway's land. Early last year, when the Ojibway Nation faced a million dollar budget shortfall, they publicly warned about imposing tolls on highway 17 and highway 17b. It was a spark for trouble. Bored young men, both white and Indian, with nothing to do, defaced the signs along this stretch of road. Racist comments smeared across the signs do little to ease the tension in this part of the country. Rolling through the reservation, I stopped for some water. The guy at the station was really interested in bike touring too. Friendly and helpful, he passed on advice about the terrible shoulder down the road.

Bruce Mine

My first major stop was Bruce Mine. In 1846, this was Canada's first copper mine. It was named after the governor general of the day. Today the mine is decommissioned and up until recently the town had fallen into disrepair. A lady in the town said the mayor had recently spent a lot of taxpayers money. Half completed construction projects were everywhere. The town was furious at the reckless spending and the mayor was booted out of office. Now the projects are on hold. It seemed like such a waste of money to see so many projects half completed. The citizens of the town say the increase in property tax was unbearable so the new mayor has halted all construction pending review. This town is a magnet for tourists. Southern Ontarians come here to escape the hustle and bustle of the big cities.

Lake View Near Thessalon

Thessalon was the next town along this route. I was riding through flat prairie. It looks like I'm exiting the Canadian Shield. At Thessalon you can see Lake Huron. It's a massive lake. Water stretches all the way to the horizon. Thessalon is a transportation junction between highway 17 and highway 129. Today it's known for it's fishing. Boats line the beautiful river along the road out of town.

Amish Horse & Buggy

With strong tail winds behind me, I flew down to Iron Bridge. The town was named after the iron bridge built over the Mississagi River. In the 1940's, a concrete bridge replaced it. The name of the town was never changed. Something that has never changed is the way of life of Menonites and Amish who live in the area. With a horse and carriage they roll through the town. They're completely incongruous with their surroundings. Even the bridge is steel and concrete these days. It was a fascinating scene, so I stopped for a picture.

Hayfields Near Blind River

26km East of Iron Bridge is Blind River. This town owes its name to the Voyageurs. These legendary canoeists named it Blind River because the mouth of the river wasn't visible from their canoe route through the area. The town used to rely on logging. Cameco also had a huge uranium mine at Elliot Bay. Today both industries are gone and the town is shrinking. Tonight I'm at Macivers Campground at the edge of the city. For 65 years, the same family has operated the resort. Wayne's an awesome guy. We had a long conversation about business and the death of the travel industry in this part of Ontario. His list of grievances is long. He no longer see's families with RV's or American tourists. The price of gas and the high dollar is keeping everyone away. People no longer snowmobile in the Winter. We are losing our connection with nature. Society would rather enjoy the comfort of the virtual world. Wayne's son is studying hospitality and tourism. Wayne figures that after 65 years it might be time to do something else. Bike tourers love the campground here. It would be sad to see it go. I guess we could always camp down by the river, but it wouldn't be the same without Wayne.

The Harbour Sault Ste. Marie

Distance: 156km
Average Speed: 23.8km/h
Maximum Speed: 47.7km/h
Time: 6:33
Odometer: 4208km

Day 33, July 1st, Montreal River to Sault Ste. Marie (124km)

2011-07-01T20:47:00.000-07:00

Last Nights Sunset

To get to Sault Ste. Marie from Thunder Bay, you take Highway 17 East for 697km along the shores of Lake Superior. The terrain is diverse and the scenery's beautiful. Sault Ste. Marie is at the Eastern end of the Northern shore and marks the end of the major hills. Waking up on the shore of the lake, I could hear the howling wind. Overnight, the clouds in the distance had blown across the lake. I packed up camp and thanked the guys with the canoe. Without them, there would have been no dinner. I wanted a good meal for breakfast. Hmm... Pancake Bay, with a name like that, I expected the best. Hundreds of years ago, the legendary Voyageurs would stop for breakfast here. They would use the last of their flour to make pancakes before the final push into Sault Ste. Marie. I made my way back through the forest. Back on the road, I hit a supersized hill. This highway makes you work for everything. I would have to earn my breakfast on the way to Pancake Bay,

Beautiful Scenery Lake Superior

The hill wasn't really the problem. The roaring sounds of relentless headwinds in your ears is demoralizing. While the road from Thunder Bay to Sault Ste. Marie is a hilly, physically difficult challenge, the winds present the most formidable physical and psychological obstacle. After reaching the summit, I pedaled down the hill. Reaching the mighty speed of 25km/h, I sighed in exasperation. Who needs brakes when the wind blows so hard I thought. With the wind roaring in my ears, I fought my way to Pancake Bay.

Tepees at Pancake Bay

Tepees appeared beside the road. Ahh... civilization. It had been almost 150 hilly kilometers with barely a store or a gas station. I was happy to get to Pancake Bay. The Agawa Indians run a great business. You can buy their furs, shop for groceries or a souvenir. Over 200 North American carvers are represented in their stores. What was missing was a restaurant. I resigned myself to breakfast from the grocery store. The provincial parks could learn a lot from the Indians. At over $35 a night the camping is expensive in Ontario's parks. If you do spend $35, you might not even get showers. Employees mill around with nothing to do. Thanks but no thanks, I'd rather free camp on the shores of the lake or support a private campground with friendly owners offering twice as much for half the price. We need to do better. There is a disconnect between the government and the patrons of the parks. The parks are beautiful, but scenery aside, the lack of facilities a exorbitant price give tourists little reason to stay. In a world where cheap flights have made beautiful places more accessible, Ontario will lose its tourists if continues to fail to connect with those who want to enjoy the outdoors. It was embarrassing to hear nothing but continuous complaints from international tourists unhappy with the facilities and the crazy price. If the administrators so out of tune with reality, now would be a good time to make a change. Rant over...

Chippewa Water Fall

Leaving Pancake Bay, the roads stayed flat but the wind continued to howl. Riding by the lake was beautiful. Small chip stands and grocery stores dotted the shore. Beautiful little islands appeared beside the road. For a minute or two, the lake would disappear. Rounding a corner, it would come back into view. A completely different portrait would appear before your eyes. You had to constantly remind yourself you were still riding beside the same massive lake. I slowly passed a waterfall. Chippewa waterfall was right beside the road. I paused to stop. This road gives you so many reasons to take a break.

The Start of 1 Mile Hill

Stopping for a snack, I asked the friendly lady about the last 20km to the Soo. With great enthusiasm, she warned me about One Mile Hill. One Mile Hill is legendary. There's a story about a cyclist who rode all the way across Canada, saw the hill, gave up and turned back to go the other way. I got back on my bike and within 5 minutes I was at the base of the hill. The higher I climbed, the steeper the hill seemed to get. In my head, I thought this would be the perfect training site for a sadistic running coach. Hitting a mile, the hill still continued up but flattened out. At 2.5km the summit finally appeared. After the summit, I slowly coasted the rest of the way to Sault Ste. Marie. Pulling in at a restaurant, I had a chat with Scott. Scott's on his way to start a new life in Port Moody and left a week ago from Quebec. I told him how spectacular and remote the 697km is to Thunder Bay. Then I told him about the hills. Scott's riding himself into shape. He'll be a new man by the time he hits Thunder Bay. I gave him my email, wished him good luck an yelled, "See you in Vancouver in 40 days."

For 697km, It's Been a Beautiful Ride Along Lake Superior

Distance: 124km

Average Speed: 18.8km/h

Maximum Speed: 58.1km/h

Time: 6:36

Odometer: 4052km

Day 32, June 30th, Wawa to Montreal River (111km)

2011-07-01T13:58:00.000-07:00

Calm Winds Outside Wawa

As beautiful as Canada is, one of the great experiences of this trip is meeting unique and interesting people. Everyone has a story to tell and the stories out here are unbelievable. Yesterday, I met Umair. Umair has a dark complexion and long black hair. He's the type of guy who could be from anywhere. Spotting me from across the road, he crossed over. Umair had just done his masters and is riding his bike from Toronto to Vancouver over 40 days. We were doing the same route going opposite ways. I learned from Umair that next year he'll ride from Paris to Lhasa. With an interest in language, he plans to study Chinese dialects along the way.

Old Woman Bay

Today's ride took me through Lake Superior Provincial Park. After the long day yesteday, I hadn't looked at a map. A group of boys at the camp doing missionary work cooked up a good breakfast. The guys were in their teens and were hungry to hear good stories. They told me about Daryl who is a day or two ahead. He has a GPS that continuously updates his location on his blog. After breakfast, the guys gave me some Cliff Bars. It was already late when I set off for the Lake Superior Park.

Danielle and Her Dad

Entering the park, I saw the sign. Lake Superior Provincial Park was 83km long. In provincial parks, there's no stores to buy supplies. Great! I had 3 cliff bars and 3 liters of water, It was going to be a difficult ride. The hills were steep. After a gruel-ling ascent, I zoomed into Old Woman Bay. Danielle and her dad were by the water. Danielle's dad was going through an ugly divorce and happy to have time to spend with his daughter. Maybe after the divorce he might do a trip. He's thinking about biking across Canada so he had a lot of questions. He offered me some extra supplies before I resumed my trip. I thankfully accepted a lot of water. It's so ironic to run out of water beside a lake.

I left Old Woman Lake and climbed the hill to the park office. Not familiar with the terrain, I asked for a profile of the road ahead. The helpful girl said there would be more hills and that I should be ready for a difficult climb up Montreal Hill before Montreal River. Descending from the office, a man appeared out of the brush beside the road. I was kind of curious so I stopped for a chat.

Descent Into Christine Bay

Dana Meise has a really interesting story. A little while back he received a promotion at his job. With the promotion, he would have been stuck in the same position for perhaps the rest of his life. Instead of accepting, he quit his job, sold his house and started to walk. People called him crazy, he had worked so hard to get the promotion. Dana started in Newfoundland and over 8000km later, I was talking with him at the side of the road. His goal was to walk the entire Trans Canada Trail. At 22 000km it's a bit of a hike. The trail was washed out in this part of Ontario and after struggling for several days, Dana detoured through the park. Michaelle Jean the former Governor General and Lauren Harper the Prime Minister's wife had heard about his trip. They had spent some time to walk with him. His trip has taken on a life of its own. Now sponsored by the Trans Canada Trail http://www.tctrail.ca./home.php and Keen Shoes http://www.keencanada.ca/ca/en/, Dana will spend the next 7 years to complete the hike. He has a GPS that records his real time position on the internet. For more information, check out www.thegreathike.com As far as I know, Dana will be the first person to walk the entire trail. He's an amazing guy with an amazing dream. I hope one day I run across him again as he walks through the Trans Canada Trail into Vancouver.

Beautiful Desolate Beach, Christine Bay

After the chance encounter, I continued my ride. It was already afternoon and the sun was hot. Montreal River was still 50km away. My ride took me past Christine Bay. With no one by the water, I paused for a little lunch. Climbing more hills I finally made Agawa Bay. I talked to a biker at the rest stop. Yesterday, a deer had clipped his motorbike. He had gone down and the bike slid across the road. He was missing his windshield and a turning signal. The mechanic who fixed his bike said it happens quite often. Ditch rats is what they call the deer out here. Descending from the viewpoint I entered the provincial park campsite and filled up my bottles. The camping fee of $35 plus tax is a little steep. The girl at the office mentioned it was a 57km ride to Banana Bay. At 3pm it was too late. I set off anyways, hoping to find something in Montreal River.

Welcome to Montreal River

For weeks, I had heard about Montreal Hill. Dana had mentioned the big hill after Agawa Bay. Umair had said there was some nasty hills after the park. In Winnipeg, the guys at the hostel all remembered this hill. In the hot afternoon sun, I started my climb. It was steep and long and my legs were dead. I just kept ploughing forward. It took a while, but I finally hit the top. I had gone through 1.5 liters of water climbing this hill. With the summit behind me, I started my quick descent. A sign saying Montreal River appeared beside the Road. Montreal River isn't even a town. Distracted by the sign, I didn't notice the black rubber used to fill the cracks in the road. The rubber caught my tire and my bike wobbled really bad. I was able to recover and kept it from crashing. This black rubber is really dangerous to cyclists. It can clamp onto your wheel like a vice. I counted my lucky stars. At the time I hit the rubber, I was going at my maximum speed for the day.

Sunset on Lake Superior

Not a town in sight and it was late in the day. I briefly checked out Twilight resort but it was a rag tag place along the lake. The great thing about Lake Superior is there are so many beaches along its shore. Walking through the dark forrest then along the shore, I found a nice little spot not far from the road and resort. I set up on the rocky sand. A night on the beach beside the lake. Sunset was beautiful, and I met some guys with a canoe. I swam in the lake to wash away the sweat. Since breakfast, I haven't had a proper meal and I'm out of supplies. It's going to be interesting to see what's left in the legs for tomorrows trip to Sault Ste. Marie.

Parks Building Lake Superior Provincial Park

Distance: 111km

Average Speed: 18.8km/h

Maximum Speed: 48.4km/h

Time: 5:52

Odometer: 3928km

Day 31, June 29th, Marathon to Wawa (201km)

2011-06-29T21:04:00.000-07:00

Sunrise Penn Lake

Epic Day!! 201km after 3 difficult days. For the past 3 days, the route from Thunder Bay to Marathon featured some of Canada's toughest hills. The last 3 days had been tough! Victor says he finds it too difficult to ride up all the really steep hills. Every day for the last 3 days, he had walked his bike up and over more than 20km of hills. These hills were steep and it was starting to take its toll. At 5am, I got up. It was so cold there was frost on the grass. Making my way to the lake, I could see the steam rising off the water. The clouds were gone and the wind was calm. This was going to be a beautiful day. I broke camp and wished Victor good luck. He'll be alright. We both need a good day to get our spirits up.

Lake Before White River

Today was an excellent day. The winds were calm, the sun was out and it was only 21 degrees. The conditions were perfect for a very fast day. Making my way out of town, I stopped at the junction with the highway. The girl at the station said the tough stuff was done. Today, there would be some hills, but they wouldn't be steep. Leaving the station, I worked the cranks. My first stop of the day was White River which was nearly 100km away. The lakes along this road are stunning. It's tough to describe their beauty. There are so many that it's impossible to remember their names.

White River Winnie the Pooh

Around 11am, a tailwind picked up. Victor was right, when the sun heats the air, the winds get stronger. I was glad the the tailwind was with me today. I made the 100km to White River going fairly fast. It wasn't even lunch time so I checked out the town. White River is the famous birthplace of Winnie the Pooh. Lieutenant Harry Colebourn of White River was a veterinarian and soldier who donated a bear cub named Winnie to the London Zoo. Coleburn had come across Winnie near White River when a hunter had killed her mother. At the time, he was leaving for the war so he bought the cub for $20 and took it across the Atlantic where it became the mascott for the Canadian Armies Fort Garry Horse. Coleburn went on to serve 3 years in France and kept Winnie at the London Zoo. After the war, Winnie was donated to the zoo. Winnie later inspired the creation of A.A. Milne's famous childrens book Winnie the Pooh.

Trees Destroyed By a Forest Fire

Moving past White River, I planned to stay at Obatanga Provincial Park. By now the air had warmed and the tailwind was fast. The road was flat and I did a 30 minute stretch at over 40km/h. In no time, I was at the park. I went into the office and contemplated whether I should end the day. The girl said the road to Wawa was fairly flat. With the wind at my back, I thanked her for the information and said I would go for Wawa today.

Neat Wawa Gas Station & General Store

On big km days, your body tends to protest. Every 30 minutes, I forced myself to eat and drink 350ml of water. The plan worked well and my legs felt great. The girl was right, the road was flat. An hour out of Wawa, the temperatures cooled. In no time, the tailwind was gone. 5 minutes later, it had shifted into a headwind. I smiled at the heavens. I had really taken advantage of the tailwind that had followed me for most of the day. With only 20km left, I battled the headwind. Tough little hills started to reappear. On tired legs it wasn't easy, but I made Wawa RV before 6pm. The campground only gave me 192km. I really wanted a 200km day so I headed into town and reloaded my supplies. Arriving back at camp, my odometer read 201km. It was an epic day.

Canada's Lake District is Beautiful

Distance: 201km
Average Speed 24.6km/h
Maximum Speed 59.1km/h
Time: 8:10
Odometer: 3817

Day 30, June 28th, Terrace Bay to Marathon (94km)

2011-06-28T20:33:00.000-07:00

Victor in Good Spirit

For 5 hours last night, the monsoon roared. Night became day, as lightning struck close to the bay. Around midnight, there was a lull in the storm. Victor and I escaped from the office porch to check on our stuff. My tent had held out the rain and my gear remained dry. Victor wasn't so lucky. His tent and gear had gotten a little wet. Within 15 minutes, the storm started again. Victor said he was going to camp in the washroom. I stayed in my tent, hoping the water running down the grass wouldn't creep underneath it. I had set up on the highest piece of grass I could find. It was a good spot. With rain pelting the tent, it was tough to sleep. Around 2am, I must have drifted off. When I got up at 6am, the rain had stopped. I walked up to the office to find Victor asleep on the porch. The cold morning was miserable but at least it was the start of a day. I was running out of clothing so I pulled on my long sleeve merino wool and a cycling jersey that I had used the day before. With all the rain, nothing in the mesh bag I bungee to the back rack of my bike had dried. It really sucked having to put on a damp cycling jersey. The one thing I hadn't prepared for was extended stretches of cold wet weather. I just try to layer as best as I can when I run into these storms.

Curves in the Road.

Drying off my gear as best as I could, I broke camp and loaded my bike. The clouds still looked ominous and the crisp winds continued to howl. Stopping at the bakery to grab some bread, I wished Victor the best of luck. I knew there would be lot of hills on the route. The shoulder on this stretch of highway is really narrow. Ironically, the shoulder gets wider on hills so semi's can pull to the side to let others pass. The hills are so steep that from time to time you see a semi stuck on the side. On the flat sections, the narrow shoulder was really problematic today. The crosswinds were so strong, they were howling through the spokes of my tires. Gusts were moving my bike off the shoulder onto the gravel. I found myself on the gravel more than once. Luckily the highway isn't that busy so I positioned my bike 2 feet inside the white line. Listening for cars, I would dart for the shoulder. It was really stressful having to ride this way.

Beautiful Lakes Along the Route

No amenities would be available between Terrace Bay and Marathon. Numerous hills came and went. Today it felt like you were either climbing a hill or coasting down one. With the hill geography comes stunning scenery. While the road was away from the shore of Lake Superior, there were numerous beautiful inland lakes all along the way. A lot of lakes were dotted with little islands. People on boats were fishing in a number of places. I don't think I could get tired of seeing the type of landscape that I saw today.

Too Many Car Accidents with Animals on the Highway

Before I could see it, I could smell the rotting meat. On the shoulder of the road, I saw pieces of the front of a car. There was broken glass and some twisted red metal. Looking to the right, I saw the carcass of an animal. The animal looked too big to be a deer. I think it might have been a moose. 50m further on was another moose carcass. Driving at night along this highway is especially dangerous. Wildlife tend to freeze when they spot the headlights of a car or truck. The sharp curves in the road mean drivers don't have time to react. The moose had been struck close to the end of a curve. It's blood was still splattered all over the road.

Ontario Police Helicopter

After 2 hours of battling the wind, I pulled in to a rest stop. I was chewing on a granola bar when I heard the rotors of a helicopter. The Ontario Provincial Police had a helicopter hovering a few hundred feet above me. It paused for half a minute then moved on. After finishing my snack, I continued on my way. The whole incident with the helicopter seemed a little strange. Within a few minutes, I heard rustling in the trees to my right. 3 police officers were walking in a line beside the road on the edge of the forest. "How's it going one yelled to me." "Not too bad," I replied, "What are you looking for?" The cop said they were looking for someone. I don't think it was a missing person because they were being too discreet. After checking to make sure that I was okay for supplies, they threw me a chocolate bar and I was on my way. The police are really helpful in remote places like this.

Climbing Another Hill

More hills appeared before I hit Marathon. It was a slow grind up followed by recklessly fast descents all day long. Lake after lake appeared beside the road. There are so many lakes that they are too numerous to count. Everyone you meet is friendly. A lot of drivers honk and wave or stop to say hello. As bad as the weather's been, it can't dampen my spirits. Tonight Victor ended up in the same campground once again. Being from Australia, he had found the wind and hills shockingly tough. I admire his determination. While he doesn't have the physical abilities of younger cyclists, he is mentally tougher then the rest of us. On some of these windy days, it sure feels like you'll never get there.

Muddy River Draining Into Lake Superior

Distance: 94km
Average Speed: 17.6km/h
Maximum Speed: 62.3km/h
Time: 5:21
Odometer: 3616km

RE: Police Search:
I later found out the police were looking for a hit and run driver who had been involved in an accident that resulted in serious head injuries to a flagman. Unfortunately, the police never found the driver. Best wishes to the injured flagman towards a full recovery.

Day 29, June 27th, Nipigon to Terrace Bay Ontario, (114km)

2011-06-28T04:59:00.000-07:00

Climbing a Hill Lake Superior Behind

Oh Lake Superior! The beauty of your shoreline is difficult to put into words. Today I woke up with vague notions of trying to get to Marathon almost 200km away. For weeks, cyclists going the opposite way had talked about the killer hills of Northern Ontario. Almost 650km into the province, all I had encountered were a few molehills and strong persistent headwinds. Today looked to be no different. Thick clouds hung in the sky and the fierce, cold wind blew directly in my face. Leaving Nipigon, I had no idea that the third challenge would be the steep hills that were about to come into play.

Narrowest Point of the Trans Canada

Just outside of Nipigon, is the narrowest point of the Trans Canada Highway. With a single lane each way, you come across a bridge that serves as the route for both highway 17 and highway 11. The shoulder is tight, and trucks come scarily close to your handle bars. Glad to get past the bottleneck, I got my first taste of the short and steep hills that define this part of the province. While the hills of B.C. tend to be long gradual passes that can run uphill for 40km or more, the hills of Ontario are short, steep and frequent in nature. Rarely is a hill more than 5km long. but they are definitely steeper then the ones I encountered in B.C. My first indication of how steep they are, was the view of a semi trailer slowly climbing one in the distance with its hazard lights on. Working my way up, the view of Lake Superior started to open up on my right. It was a serene scene full of natural beauty.

Islands of Lake Superior From the Top of a Cliff Head

Lake Superiors shoreline is dotted by rocky bluffs. Todays route along the lake involved more than 6 climbs up the rocky cliffs. To my right, islands in the lake became visible as I neared the summit of each cliff. The closer islands were a darker shade of blue while more distant islands got progressively lighter. I crawled up the hills. Sometimes I could barely ride 6km/h. The descents were quick and often reckless. On one descent, I saw a U-Haul truck pulled over beside the road. Smoke was pouring from its wheels so I stopped to ask the driver if everything was okay. The driver said he was carrying a really heavy load. The steep downhill had overheated the brakes.

British Mini Bikes Beside My Bike

Pressing on, I hit Gravel Creek. The only building in the town houses a gas station, liquor store and restaurant. I needed supplies so I crossed the road. Parked in front of the building were two tiny bikes fully loaded with touring equipment. I couldn't believe what I was seeing. I entered the building expecting to see two midgets wearing cycling gear. Instead, I came across a couple of giant British guys. The shortest one had to be 6'4” Surprised, I told the guys, “When I saw those bikes, I thought I'd find a couple of midgets in the store.” The Brits had started their ride in Halifax and were working their way to Vancouver. They quickly admitted that the bikes weren't working out too well for them. Somehow they still managed to get close to 100km a day. They were good chaps, and I would have loved to chat a while longer but I still had a long way to go before the end of the day.

View of Lake Superior by Rossport

Climbing more hills, I descended into Rossport. By now, I was starving. Rossport turned out to be nothing more than a hamlet of houses along the shore of the lake. The shoreline out here is beautiful. After each climb up the side of a cliff, the lake presents itself with a different look. You have to remind yourself that you are looking at a different part of the same huge lake. In areas without islands, you can see water until the horizon. It's easy to see why early explorers thought Lake Superior was the sea.

Terrace Bay

Climbing Another Hill

Tired of climbing hill after hill, I paused to take some self portraits. The road in this area is blasted through the rocks of the cliffs. Often, the climb is longer than you first expect. False summits, plateaus then more steep road play tricks with your mind. You feel demoralized when you climb for 4km, the hill flattens out and you turn the corner only to see another huge hill in front of you. This happened 3 times on the final hill to Schreiber. Relieved to hit a major town, I grabbed a quick lunch. The fellow working there mentioned there were more amenities at Terrace Bay. Not impressed with the campground at Schreiber, I rode the final 14km stretch to Terrace Bay.

Aguasabon Falls

Before setting up camp, I checked out Aguasabon Falls and the Gorge. A massive waterfall plummets into a gorge before draining into the lake. Today the scenery had been spectacular. It was the most beautiful day since the mountains of British Columbia.

Rain was threatening so I set up my tent. Victor the Aussie rolled in half an hour after me. Within an hour, we were hit by the worst downpour of my trip. Victor and I ran for the washrooms to get out of the rain. It's been raining for 4 hours now. Lightning is flashing all over the night sky. Thunder, lightning, rain, wind and cold temperatures can't stop me from remembering this as an amazing day.

Looking Back at Lake Superiors Shoreline

Distance: 114km

Average Speed: 17.7km/h

Maximum Speed: 65.6km/h

Time: 6:26

Odometer: 3522km

Day 28, June 26th, Thunder Bay Int. Hostel to Nipigon (89km)

2011-06-26T18:28:00.000-07:00

The Porch Thunder Bay Hostel

Late last night, just after dusk, a ghost arrived at Thunder Bay Int. Hostel. I'd heard rumors about Victor the Australian in Saskatchewan and Manitoba. We were traveling parallel routes, but we always seemed to miss each other by a day. At one point, we were even at the same hostel in Winnipeg. A hostel so big, that we probably brushed shoulders in the hall without recognizing each other.

Wildflowers Beside the Road

Victor is quite the character. At age 63, he comes from the most isolated city in the world, Perth Australia. Perth is over 2100km away from any major city. Years ago, Victor rode from Sydney to Perth, a journey of over 4000km. He mentioned the severe droughts plaguing Australia. Droughts so bad that water had to be trucked in to remote gas stations servicing the outback. As a cyclist, the gas stations wouldn't even sell him water. It was a very precious commodity needed for cooling systems of the trucks. Victor subsisted on that trip by buying 4 liter jugs of orange juice at remote out stations along the way. For a man his age, he is in amazing shape. While he is traveling at much slower speeds than me, he is doing approximately the same distances. At over 170km, the trip to the hostel had been his longest day. The great thing about Victor is his methods of travel are before old school. Map and compass in hand, he doesn't even have an odometer on his bike. His flare gun for the bears is something only an Aussie would carry. Armed at the hip, he looked like a cowboy. The bears are shyer than Australia's venomous spiders I pointed out with a grin on my face.

Endless Tracts of Wildflowers in Full Bloom

Early this morning, I was ready to leave. At 9am, I was off. I thanked the Swiss for all their help and told Victor we'd see each other down the road. Victor had taught me a lot about making surmises from a regular map. He told me that river crossings cutting through the Canadian Shield on their way to lake Superior have short steep downhills followed by a brutally short steep uphill as the carve through the landscape. Winds he said, pick up in the afternoon as the sun heats the air increasing the speed of the collisions between molecules. It was all basic chemistry, but these old timers have this basic useful knowledge that technology seems to kill. Today's stage from Thunder Bay to Nipigon featured rolling hills, rivers and the threat of bears. Pulling into a gas station a patron said he had seen 4 bears on his way west. I said great, I'll have the camera ready. The bears just don't worry me anymore. I cruised down the road on fresh legs. I felt like a million dollars. Forcing myself to slow down, I took some pictures of the wildflowers beside the road.

Terrain Between Thunder Bay & Nipigon

Entering the Port Arthur Hills, the going got a little tougher. Working the gears, I noted the signs for Amethyst mines on the side of the road. About 75 km from Nipigon are some of the worlds richest deposits of the gemstone Amethyst. While not as valuable as rubies and saphires, ancient Greek philosophy suggests purple hued Amethyst protects its owner from drunkenness. The locals in the small towns out here have been a little too friendly. With so many offering to buy a drink, it might be a good idea to pick up this little gem.

1906 Church Nipigon

I found the Port Arthur Hills to be an easy challenge. Before lunch time, I had arrived in Nipigon. Nipigon is a small town of about 2000 along the shores of Lake Superior. It's primary industry was forestry, but the mill has now been closed. As one local said, all the six figure jobs disappeared. Ironically, I met a few forestry workers from B.C. who ended up moving here after poor government policy wrecked the industry on the West Coast. When a downturn in lumber and pulp prices shuttered mills along the coast, the subsequent sale of multi million dollar mills to developing countries for pennies on the dollar lacked foresight and business acumen. Government policies allowing for the export of raw logs were the final death blow to a suffering industry. As prices recovered, Canada was left without the facilities to process wood. Now Canada is merely an exporter of raw logs to oversea mills we once owned. As with a lot of resource towns, this town is shrinking. Shuttered businesses line its streets.

Paddle to the Sea

Nipigon's biggest contribution is the 1941 childrens book "Paddle to the Sea." In the book a native boy from Nipigon carves a wooded canoe and inscribes the words "Please put me back in the water" on its hull. The canoe travels all the way from the great lakes to the Atlantic on an epic journey of discovery. People from all walks of life come across it on its voyage to the sea. In 1966, the story was turned into a film that was nominated for an Oscar. I still remember seeing this movie as a kid and was delighted to stumble across the history of the story down by the lake.

Cat Guarding My Bike

Dropping by the grocery store, I came across Graham, Owen and Natalie. These three cyclists had met along the way. Graham and Owen had started off as soloists while Natalie had been ditched by a cycling partner who couldn't take the hills, rain, wind and her way of traveling. On a $25 a day budget, this girl has been free camping. It's been three weeks since she had a shower, but there's lakes along the way. We had a bit of a picnic in front of the grocery store. They gave me a lot of good advice about abandoned hotels that I could squat at along the lake. For a few kilometers, I rode west with the pack. Shaking hands at the campground, they headed off into the setting sun. Perhaps I'll have the chance to seem them again when they make it to Vancouver!

Elaborate Chainsaw Carvings

Distance: 89km
Average Speed: 23.9km/h
Maximum Speed: 54.7km/h
Time: 3:43
Odometer: 3408km

Day 27, June 25th, Silver Bay East of Thunder Bay (0km)

2011-06-25T19:12:00.000-07:00

Searching For Treasure at the Dump

Hostels have always had a special culture. Unlike hotels, guests share a common kitchen, TV room and bathroom. What makes hostels so unique, is good conversations with random strangers. Over the years, I've spent a lot of time at these types of places. While Thunder Bay International Hostel is older than most, its owners provide the character for a very special refuge for weary travelers. Lloyd and Willa have lead extraordinary lives. In the late 1960's they spent 6 years in Borneo, before traveling to Europe, Australia, Africa and Asia. They traveled at a time when backpacking was in its infancy and were lucky enough to see places like Afghanistan and Lebanon before the wars that plague those countries. After spending a day here, I realized Lloyd is no ordinary hostel owner. He's the head of Backpackers Hostels Canada.

Sign Posts Made by Hostel Guests

Backpackers Hostels Canada is a group of independent hostel owners who banded together after years of dealing with draconian rules set by Hosteling International. The group has over 150 independently owned hostels that serve budget conscious travelers across the country. Lloyd's son Ken, has continued what his father started and operates an excellent hostel in Ottawa. More information on their network of hostels can be found at www.backpackers.ca

Lloyd Makes a Discovery

In addition to their great work within the hosteling industry, Lloyd and Willa have been strong advocates for refugees. The two of them were responsible for sponsoring 200 Karen Burmese to Canada who previously lived in refugee camps after being persecuted by the Burmese army. Many have thrived in the local community and credit Lloyd and Willa for the lives they have and their freedom to live. Lloyd is walking one of the girls down the aisle for her wedding. She is deaf. I wonder what kind of life she might have had in Burma had Canada not opened her doors. They really are the elder statesman/stateslady of adventure travel and human rights and have tirelessly taken on issues long before the issues were popular with the public. Now in their golden years, operating a hostel on the back roads outside Thunder Bay, the world comes to them. The hostel is a tribute to their life's work. Newspaper articles, pictures and clippings line the walls. There really is an appreciation within the community for the work that they have done.

My Super Tough Touring Bike

There are only 3 of us here tonight. A young couple from Switzerland is biking from East to West. They're so romantic. When I mentioned they were going the wrong way to catch the prevailing winds, they stated they wanted to finish in the most beautiful part of the country. Next year they're getting married. I'm happy for them, they both have such great attitudes about their trip and their life. As bicycle tourists going opposite ways and meeting halfway, we've been passing on a lot of information to each other. Today they told me about a website www.warmshowers.com This is a website for bike tourers run by bike tourers. Like www.couchsurfing.org it provides a data base of places bike tourers can stay for free. Unlike other websites providing this service, it specificity to bike tourers is what makes it special. Ask anyone on a bike what the most important thing is at the end of the day and they'll tell you a warm shower and washing machines.

Kitten at the Garbage Dump

Today Lloyd took me to the garbage dump. He had to throw out an old mattress and I was more than happy to come along for the ride. The couple from Switzerland came too. Having studied environmentalism, the girl was interested in the way Canadians dispose their trash. Arriving at the dump, she was shocked. There are so many things that can be recycled that get thrown out. It was worst than the system she had observed in third world countries around the world. We found 3 little kittens amongst the garbage. I guess this must be home for them. We told the operator about our find but it's all we could do for them.

Solitude Along Lake Superior

After getting back to the hostel, I decided to take a trip down to the shore of the lake. Lake Superior is massive. Being almost 20km outside of the city, I had the place all to myself. It was beautiful. I had picked up a little bit of lunch at a local grocer and sat on the warm rocks overlooking the lake. A couple of girls on a fishing trip interrupted the solitude. Today they had no luck. One of them was just happy to be back by the lake. After spending 3 years in Germany, it was what she missed most. The locals are always friendly in these smaller places. I never see a need to lock my bike and more often than not help is offered before it's solicited. Tomorrow, I leave for a 700km stretch of highway that takes me to Sault St. Marie. I'm going to miss this hostel. It really is an oasis in the middle of Northern Ontario. Hopefully the rainstorms and lightening hold off for the next 5 days.

Day 26, June 24th, Upsula to Thunder Bay (177km)

2011-06-24T21:33:00.000-07:00

A Night at the Camp

Sitting around an oil drum burning whatever we could find, I was spending the night drinking with the construction crew widening the highway through the town. Back in Sparwood B.C, Drayer had told me a bit about the lives of roughnecks. It's a tough way to live and the money disappears as quickly as its made. The guys out here can drink a lot. "Abuse of Power," is what Drayer called it. Whether it's booze, gambling or women, they find a way to throw their money away. The construction gang was a jovial bunch. We drank a lot, told a lot of stories and by midnight I was ready to call it a night. "Leaving at 5am," I said. "Honk if you see me on the way back to Thunder Bay." "We'll be up before 5am," one of them said. Tomorrow was a workday and they do this every night.

Smoke From Forest Fires

Waking up early, I caught a whiff of smoke. My head was throbbing from the beer. My first thought was I hope we didn't burn down the campsite last night. Emerging from my tent, I could see smoke filling the low areas by the trees. We hadn't burned down the campsite, but something was causing a lot of smoke to drift into town. I went down to the gas station/restaurant to grab some breakfast and find out what was happening. Over breakfast, the waitress said the smoke was coming from Pickling Lake forest fire nearly 600km away.

Sunrise at Camp

Finishing breakfast, a Greyhound bus pulled up. As I got back to my coffee, I heard someone say , "Hey Mark, how you doing?" It was John from Saskatchewan. John had had enough. After getting pummeled by a major rainstorm in Winnipeg, he bought a ticket for Windsor and put his bike on a bus. It was good to see him out here and one day he'll pick up where he left off. Wishing each other the best of luck, he got back on the bus.

Bye to the Rain Hello to the Sun

Starting my ride, it felt like summer had finally come. I could see the rain clouds moving out being replaced by clear blue skies. It was warming up fast. Stopping at the rest stop that lets you know you are now one Eastern Standard Time, I loaded on the sunscreen. It was gonna be a scorcher. Heading down the flat road, I had the wind at my back. Within a couple of hours, my left quad was already sore and tightening fast. This injury is getting to be frustrating, the conditions were so perfect for a fast run to Thunder Bay. I took frequent breaks. The hills past Raith were tough on the leg. Eventually, I left the Arctic Drainage Basin. All water spilled on the road from this point on would enter the Atlantic. This was excellent news. It would be a downhill run to Thunder Bay on the shores of Lake Superior.

Passing Shabaqua, I faced a dilemma. I could shave 20km off my trip by taking Highway 102. The problem is, Highway 102 bypasses Kakabeka Falls. My quad was sore, but I wanted to see the waterfall. I stayed on highway 17. It was a good decision. There is a legend that Green Mantle, an Ojibwe princess who upon hearing news of an imminent Sioux attack, entered their camp pretending to be lost. Bargaining for her life, she promised to lead them to her fathers camp. Placed at the head of a canoe, she instead lead herself and the Sioux warriors over the falls to their deaths to spare her tribe. The legend claims you can see Green Mantle when staring into the mist of Kakabeka Falls. While I didn't see Green Mantle, Kakabeka Falls was a cool reprieve from the hot afternoon sun.

Trying to Fit in as a Tourist

Pushing on to Thunder Bay, a bunch of no bicycles on the road signs appeared along the highway. Ignoring the first set, I continued along the road. The shoulder disappeared and the highway got rough. This was crazy. I was going to be fresh meat on the road if I didn't get off soon. At the next crossroad, I pulled to the side and grabbed my map. An off duty OPP officer pulled up. He asked where I was going, and I told him a hostel east of Thunder Bay. He said just follow the highway but when I mentioned the signs he told me about a bunch of side roads that take you into the heart of the city. I set off up the side roads. Highway 17 is crazy out here.

At the Eastern edge of Thunder Bay, I got back onto Highway 17. The no bicycle signs reappeared but that wasn't going to stop me. I was on my way to see the Terry Fox Monument. In 1980, having lost a leg to cancer, Terry Fox embarked on a cross Canada run to raise awareness for cancer research. While the cancer would return, Terry Fox made it to Thunder Bay. To date, over 500 million has been raised for cancer research because of Terry Fox. One of the guys I used to run with out of a local running club in Port Moody drove the support van. While I've never heard Doug talk about the trip, he really was part of something special. Having cycled halfway across the country, it's unfathomable that someone could have run the other half on one leg and a prosthetic.

Getting back on the highway, I quickly found an exit to get me to Lakeshore Drive. At the end of this road is a hostel. It has been ranked as one of the best hostels in North America. While there is nothing special about the hostel itself, it's owners have lead extraordinary lives. Willa and Lloyd lived in Borneo for 6 years in the late 60's. Upon returning to Canada, they opened this hostel in 1971. Their trips to Afghanistan, India, Lebanon, Nepal and other places are the stuff of legend. What is even more legendary is their humanitarian work. Lloyd and Willa have sponsored numerous refugees to Canada and built schools in Sierra Leon. They've lived a wonderful life, and now the world comes to them in the hostel that they've owned and operated for 40 years. Some of those refugees live here. It's an amazing honor to meet them.

Lake Superior in the Distance

Distance: 177km

Average Speed: 21.9km/h

Maximum Speed: 61km/h

Time: 8:04

Odometer: 3319km

Day 25, June 23rd, Ignace to Upsula (111km)

2011-06-23T17:44:00.000-07:00

Typical Landscape Scene in Northern Ontario

Rain pelted my tent all night long. Waking up to spitting rain, I gathered my gear and loaded my bike. It was a really cold morning. I pulled out my long sleeve cycling jersey to try and stay warm. It's the last week of June and summer hasn't arrived in Northern Ontario. Today was going to be interesting. My quad was still stiff and the day hadn't started. Throw in a bit of cold rain and I can honestly say, for the first time in a while, I wasn't looking forward to hitting the road.

Thick Forests Line the Trans Canada Highway

Northern Ontario is remote for good reason. Some of the coldest temperatures in North America have been recorded out here during the long winters that never seem to end. Today's final destination was a mere truck stop. Essentially, there is nothing between Ignace and Thunder Bay. The boreal forest of Ontario is the largest in Canada. Spruce, Jack Pine and White Birch dominate treeline. According to the information pamphlet, this forest represents 25% of the world's closed canopy forests. Today's trip would take me through an endless sea of wetlands, forest and lakes.

English River

Hitting the road, I was pleased to have a tailwind. Overnight, the winds had shifted and the prevailing winds reappeared. What a difference a day can make. I barely had to pedal. The wind is that powerful out here. Even climbing the hills felt effortless. My left quad was aching by 30km and happy to get the break. Looking at my map, I saw a town called English River at the 60km mark. Hitting English River, I was pleased to find an outfitters station that doubled as a restaurant and a gas station. Too lazy to set up the camping stove to cook in the rain, I stepped into the restaurant to grab some lunch.

So Many Scenes Like This

A couple guys from Thunder Bay had the same idea. They had been out here fishing. One of them told me this stretch of highway from Ignace to Thunder Bay was the most remote section of the Trans Canada through Ontario. "Heck if your quad's hurting we can throw the bike in the back of the pickup and we'll have you in Thunder Bay before dinner time," one of them offered. I thanked them for the offer, but it just wouldn't be right to accept it this far in to the trip. Halfway into lunch, another cyclist walked in. "Are you the guy with the Raleigh," he asked. "Have a seat," I said.

Lake Scene Amongst the Forest

Matt is biking from East to West. I've met a lot of tough blokes out here but Matt takes the cake. Matt's primary source of funding for his trip is the ukulele strapped on to the back of his bike. According to Matt, Thunder Bay is a great place to busk. He made $155 in three days out there. Enough, he says, to get him to Winnipeg where he'll raise additional funds. At night, he free camps. It's been a little rough. A bear ripped open his pannier one night. I guess Matt's lucky he doesn't keep the food near his tent. I sure hope Matt's a good musician. It would suck to have to end a trip because of lack of funds. Shaking hands, I stepped back outside. Unlocking my bike, I shook my head as I noticed the fishing rod strapped to Matt's bike. Fresh fish is good when you can get it out here.

Upsula Gas Station & General Store (Up the Road)

The rest of the road to Upsula remained flat and fast. I'm surprised at how dense the forest is out here. Even though it had been raining, it's dry within the forest. Matt had mentioned the forest out here is better then any campsite for keeping you dry. Seeing the truck stop at Upsula that doubles as the campground, I thanked the tailwind for making it an easy day. With a truck stop and a general store, Upsula is an oasis in the middle of nowhere. The lady at the gas station even let me use the wireless internet that originates from her house at the campground. I can't wait to get to Thunder Bay. It's time for a break to get rid of these nagging injuries.

Fully Loaded Logging Truck

Distance: 111km
Average Speed: 22.2km/h
Maximum Speed: 46.4km/h
Time: 5:00
Odometer: 3142km

Day 24, June 22nd, Dryden to Ignace (109km)

2011-06-22T16:50:00.000-07:00

Cycling to Ignace

"Not much between here and Ignace," stated the old timer at Tim Hortons. "You'd better load up on supplies. God... if I was in my 70's I'd try to do that too." Glancing out the window, I saw the team from Montreal roll past the coffee shop on Highway 17. The headwinds were howling again today and they were riding single file in tight formation. I figured I'd be able to catch them before this leg was done. Beside Tim Hortons, I noticed the Extra Foods. They had a 1kg parfait on sale $2.99. What the heck, I'd already had breakfast but when your burning those calories within an hour, why not have a second one. The lady at the till gave me that I can't believe your going to eat all that look. "Not much between here and Ignace," I stated, quoting the old man without asking. Decked out in my cycling gear on the eastern edge of town, it was obvious where I was going. By the time I left Dryden, the team from Montreal was 40 minutes ahead of me.

Clouds Hang Over a Marsh

Today was a bit easier. The distance was shorter, the hills were less frequent and the road was sheltered better from headwinds by thicker trees. A nice thick layer of cloud coated the sky. While the locals are complaining about the lack of sunshine, cloud is a cyclist tourers best friend as long as it doesn't rain. My ears are still burnt from the two days of sunshine in B.C. Leaving Dryden, I B-Lined it for Ignace. There would be no amenities along the way.

Crosses Mark the Spot Where a Family Perished

First, I passed small rivers and marshy lakes. Small fields dotted the landscape in between the pine forests that hugged the road. This stretch of highway isn't that busy. While gas is only $1.19 out here, I suspect a lot of freight is being shipped by rail rather than trucks. There just doesn't appear to be a lot of semi's on the road. As the shoulder narrowed to 18", I was grateful for the light traffic. A truck carrying an oversized load honked, he needed more room. The highway out here is mostly single lane so I pulled off the road. Curves in this road can be dangerous. There's crosses on the grass all along this route. Wildlife bolting across the road compounds the danger. There seems to be more dead deer hit by cars on display than living ones running through the forest along this stretch of highway.

Forging Ahead by a Lake

Halfway towards Ignace, the forest seemed to thicken. There was little room between all the individual pine trees. Vowing to take it easy, I took frequent breaks. I even used the granite beside the road to set up my camera to take a few self portraits of myself as I road down the desolate highway. It was a good day. Not too cool but hot enough to wear a short sleeve jersey. I pressed on. At about 80km, my left quad started tightening up. At about the same time, I saw Suzette in the RV pulled off to the side of the road. The guys had stopped for lunch. I waved and pushed on.

Highway Junction Near Ignace

Getting close to Ignace, my left quad was getting worst. It almost felt like it had been charlie horsed. By now, that leg wasn't generating much power. I was cycling with my right leg while the left just kept the crank turning. Climbing the final hill before rolling into Ignace, I was glad it was a short day. Pushing on would have been difficult. Heading into the local grocery store, an old man and his wife said, "Son, there's not much between here and Upsala and that's over 100km away."

Messages in the Sand Beside Highway 11

Distance: 109km

Average Speed: ?

Maximum Speed: ?

Time: ?

Odometer: 3031km

Day 23, June 21st, Kenora to Dryden (143km)

2011-06-21T18:38:00.000-07:00

Eagle in a Tree

"Hey come over here a second, I want speak with you." Uh oh... I thought, I was in front of the police station in Dryden and this guy was asking me to come inside. "Hi, I'm the chief of police," he introduced himself. "How was it out there today? You know, we hire students to do our motorcycle patrols and they radioed in that the headwinds were insane. They saw you on your bike." People in these small towns are friendly. The chief said 9 out of 10 days the wind blows the other way but it's been a really strange year. He mentioned there was nothing between here and Ignace and recommend the campground at the Eastern edge of the city.

Beaver Dam in a Field

The chief was right. Today was another day of insane headwinds. Mix in Ontario's legendary short, steep hills and I would have to say this was perhaps my toughest day since climbing the two mountain passes in Manning Park and making it from Hope to Princeton. The scenery though was beautiful. Nature seems to be at its best out here. Beaver dams dot the landscape. Hawks, eagles and vultures prowl the skies. Deer and moose run beside the road. There really is nothing between the cities except the wildlife.

One of Many Lakes w. Islands

Starting in Kenora, I passed what seemed to be a zillion lakes. There were so many of them, mappers had a hard time coming up with creative names. Instead, I passed Narrow lake, Triangle lake and No Name lake. All were beautiful in their own unique way and provided the ecosystem necessary for the thriving wildlife in this area.

Huge Vultures on the Rocks

There are so many birds out here. Vultures seemed to rule the skies. Their wingspans are massive and you can hear their squawks echo down the valleys. These birds look fearsome. Bald headed and red beaked you know they're here to eat the dead. There's plenty of food for them too. Road kill from accidents between vehicles and animals line the roads. I watched an eagle swoop down to the lake and grab a fish. He circled back and took the catch to his tree. I could have watched the scene play out all day long, but the headwinds were taking up my concentration.

Huge Cut Through Rocks

From Kenora to Dryden, the shoulder was wide and paved. I was surprised. This wasn't the Ontario road system that so many bikers lament about on the internet. The headwinds and crosswinds were surprisingly strong. This morning, Jean Pierre had mentioned it was going to be a tough day when I pulled out before his team. He was right. On some flat stretches, I could barely manage 12km/h. The cuts in the rock through which the highway passes seemed to funnel the winds and increase their speeds. I caught myself yelling out this is ridiculous more then once. You could see RV's being towed behind trucks that were fishtailing in the wind so I stayed as far to the right as I could.

After almost 100km, I came to Vermillion Bay. I was thankful for the only restaurant open in town. It had been a tough slog and I needed a break. After lunch, I looked out with dread. The winds were even stronger. Leaving the gravel parking lot, I could see the sand and small rocks being blown off the road. Getting pelted by rocks really hurts. I was glad to get back on the paved shoulder.

Decorating the Highway

It was just over 40km to Dryden and it seemed to take for ever. Over the last few days, my right knee has been a bit sore so my left leg has been overcompensating. My left quad was on fire. I distracted myself by looking at the Graffiti on the rocks. Most people simply wrote their names. Taking a break, I built an Inukshuk to mark my passage. Pulling into Dryden, I hit up the supermarket and a restaurant. Then I came across the police chief. He was right about the campground. An old friendly Swiss guy runs the place and they have the cleanest washrooms I've ever seen. He hand built the wooden drainage platforms in the showers. It's almost a piece of art. This guy really takes a lot of pride in his place. In a world full of apathy it's refreshing to see.

Fierce Looking Turkey Vultures

Distance: 143km
Average Speed: 18km/h
Maximum Speed: 47.8km/h
Time: 7:54
Odometer: 2922km

Day 22, June 20th, Falcon Lake to Kenora Ontario! (75km)

2011-06-20T19:02:00.000-07:00

Thousands of Lakes. Manitoba Near Ontario.

Still a bit groggy, I could hear something going on in the ditch ahead. It was early morning and I was near the border with Ontario. Peering into the ditch, I saw the turkey vultchers. They are ugly, massive, bald, red beaked birds. Seven of them were ripping out fresh steak for breakfast from the carcass of a dead deer. Spotting me from only meters away, they flapped their massive wings. Those wings must have been almost 5' wide. Scared of my intrusion, they took off into the morning sky. I wish I had my camera ready. That feeding frenzy would have been quite the picture.

One of the First Lakes in Ontario

Slowly it dawned on me. Falcon Lake, Hawk Lake... these lakes were a haven of sorts for all the wild birds. Last night, one of the RV's had pulled up for a chat. The gang was heading home. They had been fishing for Walleye and Pike in the lakes. The guys claimed there were so many fish here you can catch them off the dock. Looking up at the morning sky, I could see the hawks and falcons stalking the wetlands looking for breakfast. They weren't the only ones looking for breakfast, I was hungry too. Everything was still closed when I left in the morning and I was too lazy to cook. Breakfast would have to wait until I hit Ontario.

Happy to be Here!

As I approached the border, I came across an information center for Manitoba. Dropping in to see if they had WiFi, the friendly lady started to chat. I told her about all the flooding I'd seen and how I'd cut down from the Yellowhead back to Highway 1 and battled fierce headwinds most of the way. She said that had been a good decision. Manitoba has received a lot of rain this year plus all of the water from rivers east of the continental divide in the Rocky Mountains. Fearing flooding at Portage La Prairie, the government had blown up some of the dikes outside of the city. It explains why the farmland looked like lakes. One of the nationals parks renowned for its sand dunes had be washed out. It was the first time this had happened in 350 years. The lady mentioned some of the dikes south of the Trans Canada had failed the night before. Some of her friends had been told to leave as a torrent of water raced towards Manitoba from Saskatchewan. I remember that storm. I was sleeping in a park in Portage La Prairie. At 3am it felt like someone had taken a hose to my tent. Apparently, this was just the remnants of the storm that hit Saskatchewan. All trip I've been battling storms and headwinds blowing the wrong way. No WiFi was available here, she suggested to head 2km up the road to the information center in Ontario!

Wildflowers Everywhere

Highway Blasted Through Rock

Oh Ontario! I was so happy to enter the hills of the Canadian shield. Crossing the border, rock walls surrounded the highway on both sides. The Canadian shield is formed by igneous rock from volcanic activity and tectonic plates. While it is rich in minerals, it is also logistically challenging to put in a road through this type of terrain. The "Master Blaster" who built the Trans Canada Highway must have used a lot of TNT. There's no avoiding the hard rock of the shield so they blasted a route for the highway right through it. Northern Ontario is lake and cottage country. For about 5 minutes, I contemplated taking a picture of every lake I encountered on this stretch of the highway. After coming across more than 5 lakes in the next 5 minutes, I abandoned that idea. They say that Canada has more lakes then the rest of the world combined. It's not too hard to believe that after seeing all the beautiful lakes out here.

While the lakes were stunning, by now I was starving. I had pedaled over 50km for the past 2 hours without breakfast. Nothing had popped up beside the road except for a bunch of signs promoting fast food joints in Kenora. A kilometer away I saw a yellow shack. As I got closer, a sign said Welcome to the "Olde Chip Truck." The place looked really old and run down. Hmm... homemade fries at 9am? No way, not when they serve poutine. The lady running the place was awesome. She heaped on the gravy and cheese. Those fries were good too. Breakfast was served.

Lake of the Woods. Kenora Ontario

Pushing closer to Kenora, I traveled down a road filled with wild flowers. Purple, yellow, red and white, the grass to the side was filled with them. Climbing a hill, I got my first view of Lake of the Woods. It's a massive lake dotted with 14 552 islands that occupies parts of Ontario, Manitoba and Minnesota. Its shore is also the scenic location for Kenora, one of Canada's most beautiful cities. I was happy to see Kenora. After pedaling almost 75km with little in the way of amenities, it was time to call it a day. Dryden is the next major center after Kenora but it's 148km away with nothing in between.

Downtown Kenora, Main Street

Pulling up into the campground, I saw a familiar RV. The team from Montreal was here. I'd last seen these guys on the border of Alberta and Saskatchewan. I confirmed it at the office and mentioned to the owner to keep a close eye on those trouble makers. Jean-Pierre spotted me and came over to chat. He was pretty banged up. His team had gone south in Saskatchewan and he had hit a crack on the road with his bike. The crack caught his wheel like a vice and he'd flown over the handle bars and gotten knocked out. It was good to see him in such good spirits. His arm, leg and shoulders were full of scabs. He's still riding, "Don't tell my wife," he said with a sheepish grin.

Ontario Wetlands

Distance: 75km
Average Speed: 18.1km/h
Maximum Speed: 43.9km/h
Time: 4:07
Odometer: 2779km

Day 21, June 19th, Winnipeg to Falcon Lake (151km)

2011-06-19T16:58:00.000-07:00

Jazz Festival Winnipeg

Ah Winnipeg! It was good to be in the big city. Choosing to stay in the heart of the action, I picked up a dorm bed for $30 at the HI hostel downtown. I've always loved staying at hostels. Settling in a dorm room with interesting roommates always seems to be more fun then a hotel. Last night, a few of us went downtown to grab a few beers a take in the Jazz festival. The music was alright, and everyone was in a really good mood.

Assinoboine River Winnipeg

Heading back to the hostel, I made my way to the central courtyard. In the courtyard, a few of the guys had started a bonfire. The bonfire was attracting the right type of crowd. Two of the guys turned out to be characters. Both were in their early twenties, one fellow was walking across the country with a 60lb backpack while the other guy had decided the best way to see the country was to hitch hike to every town between Newfoundland and Vancouver. The three of us traded stories. Before long, half the hostel had come out to listen. The guy walking across the country was doing about 40km a day. He was free camping in the bush beside the road drinking water out of ditches or preferably moving rivers. In a world of social media, it's good to see young people undertaking real adventures. The three of us just seemed to click. Our trips were far from ordinary.

Legislature Winnipeg

Todays journey started at 5am. Already packed, all I had to do was load my bike and hit the road. Winnipeg in the early morning can be beautiful. It was Sunday and there was no one on the roads. I worked my way past the legislature onto the highway. It took almost half an hour to get through the city. Leaving the city, I worked my way through the endless countryside. At first it was mostly fields with very few trees. As the day wore on, the fields disappeared as trees and wetlands closed in on the highway. After a while, pine trees started to reappear. Pine trees can grow in this part of the prairie when fire burns the underlying grass and splits open the seed cones left on the ground by surrounding trees. In the 1950's, massive wildfires led to the renewal of the forest in this part of the province. After more than a week of prairie grass, it was good to see a real forest.

Manitoba Wetlands

Somewhere along the way, the highway got dodgy. First they took away the massive shoulder. A sign abruptly warns, "Paved Shoulder Ends." Instead of a wide shoulder, you get 18" between the white line and the gravel. Then it got unsafe. To save money, someone decided to take away the 18" of pavement. Now it was white line and gravel. Luckily, it was two lanes each way. Truck drivers out here are awesome. They give you a wide berth and honk to warn you if they need more space. The cars towing trailers are the problem. Even with 2 lanes, a lot of them zoom past you inches from your handle bars. On curves the trailers swing out to the white line forcing you to hit the gravel. The helmet mirror I bought came in really handy. I pulled off onto the gravel a few times when I saw busy traffic coming from behind.

Real Trees Along a River!

Amenities on this stretch of highway are few and far between. I had gone nearly 100km before seeing a gas station & restaurant at Prawda. Not knowing what lay ahead, I stopped for lunch and to resupply. Leaving Prawda, I noticed more and more trucks towing boats. This is Manitoba's cottage country. Lakes are everywhere and the fishing's great. A group of French cyclists on racing bikes caught up with me. It was good to have company and they really pushed the pace into Falcon Lake. Falcon Lake is part of Whiteshell Provincial Park. After spending almost 2 weeks on the open prairie, it's nice to be back amongst the trees.

Winnipeg Art Work

Distance: 151km
Average Speed: 20.6km/h
Maximum Speed: 30.6km/h
Time: 7:20
Odometer: 2704km

Day 20, June 18th, Portage La Prairie to Winnipeg (88km)

2011-06-18T18:00:00.000-07:00

Camping in the Park. Portage La Prairie

Last night, the massive rain storm that everyone had been talking about finally hit. As rain pelted the tent and lightning lit up the night, it was the thunder that finally woke me up. My only hope was this would pass by morning. The storm was close. At one point, I couldn't count to two before hearing the thunder after the lightning. Falling back asleep, I woke to bright blue sky.

Newly Planted Fields Near Winnipeg

Today I had to push to Winnipeg. The only bike store in Portage La Prairie is closed on Saturday and Sunday. My bike was in really bad shape. I could see 3 spots on the chain where fractures had appeared. With a broken chain tool, if one link gave out, I would have no way of fixing it. Loading her up, I nursed it onto the road as gently as possible. Today, the prevailing winds finally reappeared. I was happy to have them at my back as they put less pressure on the chain. I carefully pedaled towards the big city. In my mind, all I could think about was the poor condition of the chain. As I got closer to the city, my worries started to ease. With 20km left to go, I knew I could walk it in if something happened.

Slowly, I started counting down the kilometers. At 10km I was ecstatic. Services were appearing beside the road. 8km from the city, I heard a pop. My back wheel seized up and I came to a skidding stop. The chain had give out and taken out my derailleur and broke the hanger. The bike was unrideable. With a grin on my face, I bent the derailleur back out and started to push the bike into town. I had made it! If there was ever time for a big mechanical failure this was it. Winnipeg would have a shop that could fix this.

Walking Into Winnipeg with a Broken Bike

Stopping at McDonalds, I hooked up to the internet and found the location of Olympia Cycle. By this point, they were just a few kilometers up the road. Pushing my bike into the store, I immediately liked what I saw. Olympia Cycle is a small little independent bike shop. Compared to places I had visited in Vancouver, these guys really knew their stuff. 3 of the guys were into cycle touring. Luke immediately put aside all his other jobs and started working on my bike. Luke figures it was a combination of stress and rust from all the rain that weakened the chain. The owner called all over the city looking for a Raleigh Derailleur hanger. While he couldn't find a Raleigh Derailleur hanger anywhere in town, they found a temporary hanger that works. Luke replaced the derailleur, chain, trued the wheels and fitted me for that lower angled bar stem that I've been looking for since hitting Nelson. The price was reasonable and the service was awesome. I only wish we had a store with service this good in Vancouver.

With the bike tuned and running smooth, I made my way downtown to the hostel in the heart of the city. For $30 a night, you get a dorm room in the middle of all the action. There's nothing better than a cold beer on the patio after a day like today!

Powerlines That Never End

Distance: 88km
Average Speed: ?
Maximum Speed: 26km/h
Time: ?
Odometer: 2553km

Day 19, June 17th, Minnedosa to Portage La Prairie (165km)

2011-06-18T10:38:00.000-07:00

Minnedosa Beach Camp

The wind had howled all night. By early morning, it finally died off and the rain that had been forecast failed to materialize. Getting up in front of a perfectly still lake, I started to break camp. Today was going to be a long day. My plan was to head east to Neepawa for breakfast before making a break to the south on Highway 5 and merging onto the Trans Canada Highway.

Geese Flying Across the Field

The 30km ride to Neepawa was beautiful in the calm of morning. A line of geese coming from the woodlands flew directly over me and into a farmers field. The air was still and the traffic was light. I made the 30km trip to Neepawa in just over an hour and stopped in a McDonalds for breakfast. A crowd of seniors spotted me pulling up to Mcdonalds on my bike. Before long, they were chatting it up. More seniors came and by the time I left the whole restaurant seemed to know about my trip. In a lot of these small towns, life is pretty slow. I guess having a guy on a bike passing through is an interesting event for a group of seniors who stop at the restaurant every morning. I got lots of good advice. The seniors told me the Yellowhead had a gravel shoulder, lots of curves and a parade of semi's up ahead. They advised me to go south on Highway 5.

Colourful Fields Along Highway 5

By the time I got out of Mcdonalds, the winds had picked up. For my trip down Highway 5, I would be facing a headwind. Highway 5 is a beautiful highway that takes you straight through some of the most productive farmland in Manitoba. The fields here were immaculate. There was little evidence of the flooding seen throughout the rest of the province. The headwind was my biggest problem. For 46km it blew straight in my face. It was like having your face up against the front of a fan. The winds were so loud I couldn't here the traffic behind me. At times, my speed dropped to 12km/h on flat prairie roads. I battled my way south and eventually made it to the junction with Highway 1.

Unpinning a Broken Link

Highway 1 in Manitoba is challenging. Working my way to Portage La Prairie, I entered a stretch of highway with gravel shoulders. Even though it was 4 lanes wide, the trucks ran me off the road. If highway 1 is a better option than the Yellowhead, the Yellowhead must be nearly unrideable. Highway 1 is really tight in places and you have to know what's going on behind you all the times. Taking a break, I resumed my journey only to have my chain snap again. For some reason, my chain seems to have weakened. I think after nearly 2500km of pulling heavy loads, there must be micro fractures in the metal. The chain isn't becoming unpinned. Metal links are simply breaking in half. Fixing the chain was a challenge. The repair tool that has a special bolt to unpin the links became warped. I cursed my luck and tried to straighten the bolt on the tool as best as I could. Eventually, I got the chain repaired, but noticed 3 other fractures forming along its length. I really need a new chain but I was 80km from nowhere. I would have to nurse the bike into Portage La Prarie.

Back on the Trans Canada

After 20km of no shoulder, the pavement on the side of the road reappeared. A brief respite in the crosswinds let me make decent time. I was weary to put too much pressure on the chain. If it were to snap again, I wasn't sure if my damaged repair tool would be able to fix it. The respite in the winds was too brief. For the final 60km, I faced energy sapping headwinds. At least this is parkland. Parkland is mixed grass and trees. The appearance of more and more trees helps mitigate some of the wind. The headwinds slowed me down and I got into Portage La Prairie after 6pm. Even though this is a major city, there's only one bike store and it closes at 6pm. Tomorrow, I'm going to have to pick up a new repair tool and hopefully a chain. If they don't have stock, it's going to be an interesting 80km ride into Winnipeg.

Tonight I couldn't find a proper campground. I saw a sign promoting some event at the fairgrounds and pitched my tent in the middle of a park. The parks guy came around and gave me the entrance code for the facilities and showers. It always amazes me how things just seem to work out.

City Hall Portage La Prairie

Distance: 165km

Average Speed: 18.2km/h

Maximum Speed: 33.9km/h

Time: 9:01

Odometer: 2465km

Day 18, June 16th, Binscarth to Minnedosa (125km)

2011-06-16T20:22:00.000-07:00

Leaving Binscarth on a Cloudy Day

Today's journey from Binscarth to Minnedosa got off to a late start. For some reason, I'm feeling a bit tired these days. Perhaps all the miles are catching up. After breaking camp, I began the steep climb out of the small valley in which the campground's situated. A minute later, I heard a loud pop and felt no tension on the chain. Looking down, I quickly realized the chain had snapped. Digging through my tool bag, I tried to recall how to repair a chain. I vaguely remembered doing it once over ten years ago. Luckily, I had the right tool for the job. Within half an hour, I had removed the broken link and repaired the chain. Already behind, I would have to limit my breaks to ensure i didn't get to my destination in the dark.

Tricky Riding Conditions

Battling strong headwinds, I got the feeling it was going to be one of those days. It was a struggle to keep the bike going 20km/h on flat prairie roads. Just when I thought things couldn't get worst, the shoulder on the Yellowhead disappeared. To my right lay lose gravel. At times, freeze thawing had even broken up the pavement along the white line. The Yellowhead is a fairly busy highway so I had to concentrate to stay as close to the white line as possible.

Birds in a Frenzy

After a while, things started to look better. The sun was shining. Descending into a valley created by the Birdfall River, I was greeted by the music of hundreds of birds. For some reason, this type of bird seems to nest on the bridges that cross the river. Stopping for a picture, the birds wailed in a frenzy while flying circles around my head. I had seen this show yesterday, and todays performance was just as spectacular.

At the 3 hour mark, I hit Shoal Lake. The headwinds had been fierce all morning. I stopped at the Co-Op to grab some lunch and ended up getting some useful advice from a local biker who frequents these roads. Shoal Lake is one of the few towns along this stretch of highway. It was a 65km ride to the next town with amenities. I stocked up and set off for Minnedosa.

Flooded Fields Beside the Yellowhead Highway

On route to Minnedosa, I came across some dramatic flooding. In one area, water surrounded the Yellowhead Highway. Had the water been just a foot higher, the highway would have been flooded. The deeper I get into Manitoba, the worst the flooding seems to get. It has not been a good year for planting which is sure to cause already high wheat prices to go higher later in the year. Contemplating what that means to people in poorer countries, I pushed on to Minnedosa.

Minnedosa is just off the Yellowhead highway. After more than 6 hours of battling headwinds, I was throwing in the towel and calling it a day. Taking a 5km detour, I descended into a beautiful valley that houses the town. This town is beautiful. The surrounding valley features hills of lush, green, grassy meadows interspersed by clumps of trees. The old buildings and beautiful scenery make the atmosphere around the town special. Everyone is friendly and people stop to talk to you on the streets.

Historic Part of Minnedosa

Entering the bakery, the baker asked where I was going. After talking about my trip, he pointed to a package of 6 donuts and said I could have them for 75 cents. I told him 6 was probably too many and I didn't want them to go to waste. He said, just give them away, so I took the package. Sitting outside, chomping down on donuts, I met Bill Simmons. Bill's an old timer who rents a place in town of under $300 a month. I told Bill about all the flooded fields and he said 2.5 million acres haven't been planted this year. It's been a disaster for the local farmers. Bill was able to recommend a really nice campsite by the lake. With the exception of Nelson, this town has been my favorite stop on this trip.

Buffalo Near Minnedosa

Distance: 125km
Average Speed: 19.1km/h
Maximum Speed: 41.8km/h
Time: 6:31
Odometer: 2300km

Day 17, June 15th, Melville to Binscarth Manitoba (140km)

2011-06-15T19:44:00.000-07:00

Mosquitoes, they're everywhere in this part of Canada. This year is especially bad. Massive amounts of rainfall have left standing water all over the landscape. In scientific form, the formula for mosquito is:

mosquito = standing water + mosquito egg.

Flooded Fields All Along Highway 15

The locals say, this is the wettest year they can remember. Last night, I got a taste of a prairie downpour. The rain was heavy. For a moment, I thought some clown was taking a hose to my tent. I woke up this morning with the shell of my tent utterly soaked. What's amazing is everything inside remained dry. Packing up and heading out, one of the local cops pulled up to ask if I had managed to stay dry during the night. Yesterday, I'd had a chat with the guys at Robyns Donuts. In these small towns, word spreads like wildfire. Everywhere I went last evening, people would ask "Are you the guy with the bike going to Toronto?" At 5:30am, I was quietly sneaking out of town.

Rough Section of Highway 15

Today I took Highway 15. While at some point, I had vague plans to head further north, the locals were quick to point out the further north you go the worst the mosquitoes get. There was also supposed to be substantial flooding near Lake Manitoba and Lake Winnipeg making it impossible to cross at the narrows. Highway 15 runs directly east before merging with the Yellowhead Highway which takes you close to Winnipeg. I was a bit concerned about Highway 15. The map says there's no shoulder. My concerns were quickly assuaged. While parts of the highway were in horrible shape, only 3 cars passed me in over 50kms of road. Each car slowed down and the intensely curious drivers honked and waved. I guess it was an odd sight coming across a cyclist in the middle of nowhere.

Crossing Into Manitoba

Merging with the Yellowhead Highway, I quickly zoomed through Churchbridge into Langenburg. Langenburg was originally settled by German immigrants. Offered free plots of land, the promise of wealth drew homesteaders to this area. Today, the town is thriving. With record prices for agricultural products and a nearby Potash mine, signs of growth seemed evident. Langenburg is the last major town along the Yellowhead before the border of Manitoba.

Early in the afternoon, I crossed into Manitoba. Crossing the border, I entered a new time zone. I quickly adjusted my clock forward an hour and headed towards Russel. The Yellowhead descends from the border of Manitoba into the Assinoboinne River Valley. At 1070km, the Assinoboine is Canada's 16th longest river. Today water levels seemed particularly high. Stopping on the bridge that crosses the river, I was greeted by hundreds of birds flying around in a frenzy directly in front of me. I stopped to take a video. Climbing out of the valley, I pushed my way into Russel.

Russel is famous for beef and barley. Like Langenburg, it seemed to be prospering off of high commodity prices. While its primary industry is agriculture, a nearby potash mine employs some of the people in the town. Losing an hour because of the new time zone, I bypassed the town center and picked up a Manitoba Road Map at the Tourist Center. When I pulled up on a bike, the guy and girl seemed genuinely surprised. I asked if any other cyclists had recently come through. They said it had been a while since they'd seen someone using this route to cross the country.

From Russel, I made my way to the campground outside of Binscarth. The mosquitoes out here are really bad. When I set up my tent, I had a vision of a million mosquitoes lifting it up and taking it away. Binscarth is barely a town. There's a gas station, one store & one restaurant. The gas station, store and restaurant are all housed in the same building. In a lot of these small towns, star athletes are revered. It gives the town recognition and more importantly, something to talk about. Binscarth is not just Binscarth. It is Binscarth, hometown of Cody Mcleod from the Colorado Avalanche. For a lot of young people accustomed to the life of a small town, professional sports seems to be there only way out. Tonight is game 7 of the Stanley Cup Finals. I'm stuck in a town with one store, a restaurant and a gas station but I'm sure if I knock on doors, it should be no problem to catch the game!

Assinoboine River Valley

Distance: 140km
Average Speed: 20.8km/h
Maximum Speed: 51.1km/h
Time: 6:43
Odometer: 2175km

Day 16, June 14th, Regina to Melville (149km)

2011-06-15T11:03:00.000-07:00

Regina Sunset

Heads or tails, a decision needed to be made. Cyclists say the Trans Canada Highway through Manitoba has a dodgy shoulder. As a cyclist, you ride the white line like a rail. Screw it up, and your bike joins traffic or crashes onto the loose gravel shoulder. Either way, the outcomes could be nasty. Approaching Manitoba, I had reached the junction with Highway 10. Highway 10 swings up north before hitting Highway 15. Follow Highway 15 and you hit the Yellowhead Highway. It's a longer route, but passes through some interesting towns. Checking over my left shoulder, I didn't see any traffic. In a split second decision, I decided to say bye to Highway 1 and cut across to merge onto Highway 10.

Beaver Dam Qu'Appelle Valley

Initially, I regretted the decision. The shoulder on Highway 10 is rough, really rough. Pothole after pothole jarred my bike. I could only hope this didn't last too long. Nearing Fort Qu'Appelle, the road improved. With a true tailwind at my back, I sailed past the wetlands and beaver dams. Hundreds of years ago, this was fur trade country and the Hudsons Bay Company played a large role in influencing the development of this area. A steep descent into a valley and I was at Fort Qu'Appelle, my first stop of the day.

Fort Qu'Appelle

Fort Qu'appelle was built by the Hudson Bay Company in 1864 at a confluence of prairie trails. This fort played was an important center for the fur trade industry. Also of importance was the manufacturing and trade of Pemican. Pemican was made from buffalo meat and prairie berries. It was an important food source for traders and travelers in their long journey across the prairies. Later, the Hudson Bay Company would build a store at the fort marking for the first time in its history the transition from a trading company into a retailer. Today, Fort Qu'Appelle retains its historical role as a transportation hub. Just like the old prairie trails, several highways intersect each other at this junction.

Flooded Fields Entering Melville

Climbing out of Fort Qu'Appelle, I continued on toward Melville. The trip was quick, tailwinds made it effortless. Melville is one of only 2 railway towns in the West. Originally, it served as a divisional center for the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway. The town was named after Charles Melville, the president of the railway. Charles Melville would later perish on the Titanic. Today it's key geographical location makes Melville an important center for transportation of commodities, specifically potash. It is a thriving community with a full range of services. Tonight, I camped in a park near the swimming pool. While there's no internet, I was able to use the showers at the pool free of charge. The campground was closed and no one could find the number of the person who opens it. Like most small towns, everyone here is extremely friendly. Even the RCMP doesn't mind me squatting in the public park... they suggested it!

Looking Back at Fort Qu'Appelle

Distance: 149km
Average Speed: 24.5km/h
Maximum Speed: 45.8km/h
Time: 6:05
Odometer: 2035km