Biker Boyz

Part 219 -Suzuki Smash V115 Specification... (",)

2010-11-10T11:38:00.000+08:00

SPECIFICATIONS
Jenis Enjin	4 lejang, penyejukan udara, SOHC
Gerek X Lejang	51.0 mm X 55.2 mm
Anjakan Omboh	113 cm³
Nisbah Mampatan	9.5 : 1
Karburetor	MIKUNI VM18
Sistem Penghidup	Tendang - Smash V115 Elektrik & tendang - Smash V115 SD/SCD
Sistem Pelinciran	Takungan pelincir basah
Klac	Otomatik, jenis "wet-shoe"
Sistem Pemacuan	RK-M 428, 102 mata rantai
Suspensi Depan	Teleskopik, spring lingkaran, perendam minyak
Suspensi Belakang	Lengan ayun, spring lingakaran, perendam minyak
Brek Depan	Brek Dram - Smash V115 Brek Cakera - Smash V115 SD/SCD
Brek Belakang	Brek Dram
Saiz Tayar Depan	70/90 - 17 M/C 38P
Saiz Tayar Belakang	80/90 - 17 M/C 44P
Jenis Penyalaan	Digital DC-CDI
Palam Pencucuh	DENSO: U20FS-U, NGK: C6HSA
Bateri	12V 10.8KC(3 AH) / 10HR - Smash V115 12V 18.0KC(5 AH) / 10HR - Smash V115 SD/SCD
Tangki Petrol	4.3 L
Minyak Enjin	Tanpa penukaran penapis - 800 ml Dengan penukaran penapis - 1.000 ml
Panjang Keseluruhan	1,930 mm
Lebar Keseluruhan	655 mm
Tinggi Keseluruhan	1,040 mm
Tapak Roda	1,230 mm
Berat Unit	98 kg - Smash V115 103 kg - Smash V115 SD/SCD

Part 218 - World Amazing Roads n Streets... (",)

2010-11-02T02:34:00.003+08:00

San Francisco, United States is perhaps an unsurprising place to find the so-called world’s most crooked road on a downhil angle. Lombard Street is best known for the one way section on Russian Hill between Hyde and Leavenworth Streets, in which the roadway has eight sharp turns. Crazy races (see video above) down the road are not unheard of.

Swindon, England is the perhaps unfortunate location of the world’s most confusing intersection. To be fair, once understood this intersection is amazingly functional and actually designed to reduce overall congestion. However, it is certainly an urban wonder and highly perplexing to the uninitiated.

Dunedin, New Zealand features the steepest street in the world. As with many other parts of Dunedin, and indeed New Zealand, streets were laid out in a grid pattern with no consideration for the terrain, usually by planners in London. In this case the result was a dizzying incline.

Buenos Aires, Argentina, features the widest avenue in the world. At over 300 feet wide, 9 de Julio Avenue occupies a gap of an entire block in the city grid, hence its incredible width. Crossing the avenue at street level often requires a few minutes, as all intersections have traffic lights. Under normal walking speed, it takes pedestrians normally two to three green lights to cross its twelve lanes of traffic.

Exeter, England is home to the narrowest street in the world. Parliament Street is a 50m long street in Exeter, England, which links the High Street to Waterbeer Lane and dates from the 14th century. It was formerly called Small Lane and was renamed when Parliament was derided by the city council for passing the 1832 Reform Bill. The street is approximately 45″ at its widest and less than 25″ at its narrowest.

Giza, Egypt has the oldest paved road in the world. Built over 4,600 years ago, this route connects an ancient basalt quarry to a lake adjoining the Nile. The basalt being transported was used in the construction of the great pyramids of Giza. Ancient Egyptians may have anticipated the pyramids lasting forever, but they might be surprised that this road still exists.

Toronto, Canada can claim just one part of Yonge Street, the longest street in the world. Canadians were concerned with having military access routes in case of conflict with the United States. Construction was begun in the late 1700′s and performed, in part, by local farmers and convicted drunks. Today, the street is a hub of activity in Toronto.

Part 217 - Unique Paddy Field At JApan ... (",)

2010-10-27T00:40:00.005+08:00

One of the best things about living in Japan was the paddies fields. Japan doesn’t seem to go in for zoning laws, so one gets to see these tranquil oases - with rows of little green stalks sitting in peaceful blue floods, interrupted by occasional muddy footprints - dotted around the place, even in the center of large towns. Almost wherever you go in Japan you will be able to see the forest-covered mountains, great and small, near and far. Despite all this green, Japan doesn’t go in for the vast grassy parks and tree-lined streets common in Europe. Thus many Westerners comment on Japan’s lack of green, but there is green to be seen all around.

As the year goes around, you can watch the rice get planted and harvested; watch the rice slowly growing and smell the amazing perfume as vast fields of it ripen at once; watch the flooding, typhoons flattening fields and fields dried up again; watch the egrets, storks and less exotic birds flocking, following the tractors and feeding; watch the old couples quietly farming their fields in their ‘coolie’ gear; watch as the drying racks are assembled and the rice is hung. If you live in Japan for long enough, you start to tell the seasons by the rice.

Here are sample of unique paddy field at Japan, he3...

Smaller works of crop art can be seen in other rice-farming areas of Japan such as this image of Doraemon and deer dancers

Napolean on horseback can be seen from the skies, created by precision planting and months of planning between villagers and farmers in Inkadate

The different varieties of rice plant grow alongside each other to create the masterpieces

Fictional warrior Naoe Kanetsugu and his wife Osen appear in fields in the town of Yonezawa, Japan

Closer to the image, the careful placement of thousands of rice plants in the paddy fields can be seen

A Sengoku warrior on horseback has been created from hundreds of thousands of rice plants, the colours created by using different varieties, in Inakadate in Japan

Part 216 - 15 Custom Made Motorcycle Rims... (",)

2010-10-25T01:15:00.007+08:00

Let change our bike to a new look, he3...

Part 215 - New Yamaha Fz150i vs Old Yamaha Fz150i... (",)

2010-10-23T22:21:00.008+08:00

Introduction

Malaysia’s first 150cc fuel injection street model was launched
on the 16 January 2008.

The Yamaha FZ150i is a small capacity sport bikes made by Yamaha Motor. This year, Yamaha Motor Malaysia has just launched an FZ150i updated version , the first underbone bike in Malaysia that features fuel injection delivery method. After a successful 2 years in market, The new Yamaha FZ150i version can be seen in new sporty headlamp design replacing the old model classic naked headlamp. in addition with new color and new decals design make FZ150i look more sporty yet fierce bike. This is fuel injection affordable motorcycle and it goes saving fuel consumption . the 2010 FZ150i price is sell from RM7988

This bike is actually has long been available in Indonesia and known as Yamaha Vixion. The first model of FZ150i was launched in Malaysia on January 2008 at First World Hotel, Genting Highlands as the first completely knocked down or CKD bike to be fuel-injected in Malaysian motorcycle market. .

..
2010 YAMAHA FZ150i SPORTY EDITION

Yamaha has introduced their new FZ150i with fuel injection, new sporty headlamp and new decal design in blue,black and red new color.

Yamaha 2010 fz150i new features:
- 150cc
- 4-valve
- Liquid-cooled
- All-new headlamp design
- Tubeless tires

Old Yamaha Fz150i

New Yamaha Fz150i

Yamaha 2010 fz150i Technical Specification:

Class: Naked sport bike
Engine: 149.8 cc, liquid cooled 4-stroke, SOHC, single cylinder
Power: 11.10 kW @8500 rpm
Torque :13.10 Nm @7500 rpm
Overall length x width x height :2,000 x 705 x 1,035 mm
Seat Height: 760 mm
Wheel base: 1,282 mm
Minimum Ground Clearance: 167 mm
Dry weight/ Curb weight: 114 kg
Fuel oil capacity: 12.0 litres
Clutch type: Wet, multiple-disc
Transmission: constant mesh 5-speed w/multi-plate clutch
Cooling System : Liquid
Brake front / rear: Single disc brake / Drum Brake
Wheelbase: 1282 mm
suspension fork/rear: telescopic/monocross
Tyre front/rear: 2.75-17 41P / 90/90-17m/c 40

Handling

One of the best bike to handle corner. But beware the double and side stand will hit the road if you lean to low.

At certain lean angle (estimated more than 50%) the engine will auto turn off. This is one of the preventive measure to prevent any damage to the engine.

The seat and front and rear suspension is comfortable enough for long distance.

The handle bar is uncomfortable, will cause pain around the palm.

Performance

Top Speed :140-150kmph (need to play with RPM, achievable but hard)

Cruising Speed : 110kmph (for fuel efficiency)

Fuel Consumption: 35km/1 liter (110-120kmph crusing speed)

0-100 kmph : 30 seconds

Note: You need to play with the rpm to find the hidden power of FZ.

Part 214 - Gibraltar Airport an Unique Airport... (",)

2010-10-23T00:02:00.004+08:00

Let travel around the world and meet some interesting place...

Get Your Pics Here

Gibraltar Airport the Only Airport That Have Level Crossing

Gibraltar Airport or North Front Airport (IATA: GIB, ICAO: LXGB) is the civilian airport that serves the British overseas territory of Gibraltar. It is owned by the Ministry of Defence for use by the Royal Air Force as RAF Gibraltar. Civilian operators use the airport; currently the only scheduled flights operate to the United Kingdom and Spain. Passengers depart and arrive through the civilian operated terminal.

Gibraltar Airport has the distinction of being the closest airport to the city that it serves, being only 500 metres from Gibraltar's city centre. In 2004 the airport handled 314,375 passengers and 380 tonnes of cargo. Gibraltar Airport is one of the few Class A airports in the world. Winston Churchill Avenue (the main road heading towards the land border with Spain) intersects the airport runway, so consequently has to be closed every time a plane lands or departs. The History Channel program Most Extreme Airports, ranks it as the 5th most dangerous airport in the world.

EasyJet is the only one currently flying to London Gatwick with 7 weekly flights. Monarch Airlines currently operates seven flights weekly to London Luton and three flights weekly to Manchester Airport. British Airways also flies seven times weekly into Gibraltar from London Heathrow.

Although located in Gibraltar, the airport is increasingly being used by people from or visiting neighbouring Spanish areas such as the Costa del Sol or the Campo de Gibraltar.

Click to enlarge to full size...

Gibraltar Airport – Arial View from Microsoft Virtual Earth

Flight is Waiting for the Green Signal

Roads Closed – Flight Crossing

Part 213 - Ducati Asia Week 2010... (",)

2010-10-21T13:39:00.000+08:00

500 Ducati bikes rev through streets of KL

IT was quite a sight to mark the significance of 10.10.10 as a convoy of 500 Ducati motorcycles revved through the streets of Kuala Lumpur before heading to the Motorcycle Grand Prix at Sepang International Circuit.

The riders, including from abroad, are in town for the inaugural Asia Ducati Week 2010. They had important guests in tow — 80 children aged between 10 and 15 from Rumah Anak-Anak Yatim Damai in Kuang and Rumah Anak-Anak Yatim Kariah Masjid from Bandar Baru Sentul.

Flagged off by Tourism Malaysia International Promotion (Asean) director Musa Yusof from Concorde Hotel Kuala Lumpur, the event marked the first and largest gathering ever of Ducati riders in Asia.

The event was organised by the importer in Malaysia, Next Bike, a company under the Naza Group of Companies and coordinated by Ducati Asia Pacific.

Musa commended Naza for bringing the event to Malaysia and exposing the country to the global network of Ducati owners.

“This event, attended by 500 Ducati owners, has certainly put Malaysia on the international map yet again. We hope Ducati owners who are high-network individuals can spread the word about Malaysia because travelling by bike here will be a unique experience,” he said.

Before the flag-off, the children joined the “birthday boy” Naza Group of Companies joint group executive chairman Datuk SM Faisal SM Nasimuddin in a cake-cutting ceremony followed by breakfast.

“Naza’s aim is to make Malaysia the destination for motor-travelling, boosting this segment of tourists by promoting the biking lifestyle.

“Early this year, we supported the SEA HOG Rally 2010 that drew Harley owners from South-East Asia and some parts of Europe to an unforgettable ride through Malaysia as well as Singapore and Thailand,” he added.

The children were treated to not only the race from the grandstand, but also brought home the special edition ADW 2010 T-shirts and Ducati caps.

source -> http://thestar.com.my/

Some pics in the event...

Part 212 - Fuel Injection Technology... (",)

2010-10-20T13:34:00.007+08:00

What are some advantages and disadvantages of having a Electronic Fuel Injection motorcycle?

Advantages of direct fuel injection

The first advantage is the ease of starting in any climate, as EFI monitors the environment and adjust fuel delivery to suit. The second reason to go for a EFI motorcycle would be the more efficient combustion across entire rev range, giving better fuel economy. And the engine can withstand more torque loads at low rpm as induction is not dependent on intake vacuum to maintain delivery of fuel to cylinder, meaning the engine won't bog under higher load.

Disadvantages of direct fuel injection

The primary disadvantages of direct injection engines are complexity and cost. Direct injection systems are more expensive to build because their components must be more rugged -- they handle fuel at significantly higher pressures than indirect injection systems and the injectors themselves must be able to withstand the heat and pressure of combustion inside the cylinder.

The fuel system is dependent on the function and reliability of an immersed fuel pump inside the fuel tank. The motorcycle becomes completely battery-dependent, death battery means death bike.

Engine Sensors

In order to provide the correct amount of fuel for every operating condition, the engine control unit (ECU) has to monitor a huge number of input sensors. Here are just a few:

Mass airflow sensor - Tells the ECU the mass of air entering the engine
Oxygen sensor(s) - Monitors the amount of oxygen in the exhaust so the ECU can determine how rich or lean the fuel mixture is and make adjustments accordingly
Throttle position sensor - Monitors the throttle valve position (which determines how much air goes into the engine) so the ECU can respond quickly to changes, increasing or decreasing the fuel rate as necessary
Coolant temperature sensor - Allows the ECU to determine when the engine has reached its proper operating temperature
Voltage sensor - Monitors the system voltage in the car/motorcycle so the ECU can raise the idle speed if voltage is dropping (which would indicate a high electrical load)
Manifold absolute pressure sensor - Monitors the pressure of the air in the intake manifold
The amount of air being drawn into the engine is a good indication of how much power it is producing; and the more air that goes into the engine, the lower the manifold pressure, so this reading is used to gauge how much power is being produced.
Engine speed sensor - Monitors engine speed, which is one of the factors used to calculate the pulse width

Part 211 - Top 5 Fastest Motorcycles Legally Ride on the Street... (",)

2010-10-17T14:30:00.004+08:00

As we know that not all motorcycle can legally ride on the street. Due to that facts, We have to see if It’s a legal or not legal motorcycle when buying a super bike. Dodge Tomahawk is the fastest motorcycle, but It’s not legally tide on the street and still a concept motorcycle. So Here’s the top 5 fastest motorcycles that can be ride on the road along with their top speed.

Here’s the list of fastest motorcycle legally ride in the street.

5. Suzuki GSX 1300 R Hayabusa : 300 km/h (186 mph)

4. Kawasaki ZX-12R Ninja : 305 km/h (189 mph)

3. MV Agusta F4 1000 MT Tamburini : 307 km/h (191 mph)

2. MV Agusta F4 1100 CC : 315 km/h (196 mph)

1. Ducati Desmosedici RR : 320 km/h (199 mph)

Part 210 - 22 Ghost City Around The World... (",)

2010-10-17T00:19:00.016+08:00

Get Your Pics Here

Let travel around the world and visit some interesting city that we called "Ghost City"...
Can you guest where the place is???

The origins and much of the history of this slow-built settlement in Tuscany remain unknown, constructed in pieces over many centuries. In the 1100s it was owned by the Benedictine abbey of San Pietro dei Monti. Today the beautiful small town-on-the-bluffs features a castle at the top and partially walled city sprawled on the olive-treed hillside around – but all are completely abandoned. Due to seismic instability the residents were moved out decades ago, leaving behind a perfectly preserved but piecemeal museum of modern and medieval history. Still, visit it soon: the next earthquake in the area may be the last this old town ever sees.

During the heat of conflict in World War II, a few informants told German troops that one of their own officers was being held in a nearby French town. What ensued was a terrible massacre that only spared a handful of men and women who managed to escape. Children and women were rounded up into a church and burned alive, men were shot in the legs to die slowly in a barn. Today, the remains of the old city still stand as a memorial to the events of that terrible day and the new commune of Oradour has been relocated to a nearby area.

Hashima is one of the most remarkable of a series of hundreds of deserted Japanese islands. Once a thriving coal-mining city its population density grew to be the highest on the planet, with workers crammed vertically in ever-growing buildings and walked daily through ever-narrowing streets. Following a drop in coal production the entirely island amazingly shut down though most of its structures still stand. Currently the island is being renovated to create safe tourist paths through the rubble and tilting buildings but for now daring (and illegal) exploration is possible only by hiring a willing private boat driver to take a look.

A series of structures seemingly displaced in space in time, the remains of a diamond-mining settlement in Africa sits abandoned and partly covered by long-gathered dunes of sand. Tourists have a difficult trek to get to Kolmanskop to see what remains of its strangely Germanic architecture – and then wade through the drifts to get a glimpse of the inside of its structures. Like any good German town the area had a hospital, ballroom, power station, school, theater and casino. When the diamond market crashed it was simply left to be covered over with the sands of time.

The area of Famagusta known as Varosha has a rich history of prosperity despite of long-standing conflicts in the region. In the 1970s, however, the Turkish invaded and claimed the tourist territory as their own. They erected fences with warnings and forbade the return of any residents. After decades of disuse the structures have fallen into a serious state of disrepair and are in many cases no longer habitable by anyone save the sea turtles which call some beach-side structures home.

A gulag is a strange type of ‘city’ – more like a nightmare town where work goes unrewarded and the pension plan is deadly. This Soviet gulag was used as a work and prison camp and still has remnant buildings and relics from its desertion. After all, it is difficult to turn something so structured and with such a storied past into anything else that might be more useful.

No list of abandoned cities and deserted towns can be complete without some discussion of one of the strangest and most infamous example: Centralia. This once-thriving town had a mine fire decades ago … but it never went out. Warning signs that something was still wrong included: smoking highways, heated underwater gas tanks and person-swallowing sinkholes. Over time most of the town’s residents have moved on though a few insist on staying despite the slowly-spreading and still-burning fire that creeps below.

The Quabbin Reservoir is the now the largest body of water in Massachusetts. However, the area it now occupies once had four small towns and a network of roads and rail tracks running through it – all of which were flooded or displaced by the filling of the area with water. While some public structures, memorials and graves were moved out of the way many still sit today at the bottom of this body of water. Some nearby structures sit above the waterline but were abandoned without the adjacent buildings that sustained their use.

Once the proud 150,000+ capital city of Azerbaijan this dense and thriving city was taken by the Armenians and utterly trashed, vandalized and then abandoned. However, the Armenians still claim the territory as their own so no one has returned to reclaim the wrecked and ravished ruins of the city. However, some explorers still make their way to photograph what is left of this city whose residents may never see it again.

Yashima is a high and open plateau on one of the main islands of Japan. During peak economic years in the 1980s investors decided to create a resort village complete with a half-dozen hotels, curio shops and a rail line to the top of the peak of the city. When the economy fell on harder times and they could not bring in the tourist dollars the entire village was shut down, leaving many shops with eerie remnant collections of collectible tourist goodies and leaving furniture and other relics in the hotels and other support buildings.

A sudden and devastating earthquake leveled or unbalanced virtually every major building in Beichuan, leaving thousands dead and tens of thousands displaced to public buildings in nearby cities. Due to the extent of the damage it is unclear whether this city will be rebuilt or simply left to go to ruin – its reconstruction would require the leveling of most or all of the buildings that remain from the disaster.

Off the coast of Azerbaijan sits what remains of one of the strangest organically-evolved cities in the world. Oily Rocks started with a single path out over the water, built on the backs of ships sunken to serve as foundations. This system of paths grew and evolve to serve the oil-drilling industry and eventually were widened to create space for houses, schools, libraries and shops for the workers and their families. Today, most of it sits abandoned and some paths and buildings have sunk back under the surf never to be seen again.

After the detouring of a river which permanently rose the water level in and around this haunting town in Argentina as deserted. Perhaps most striking is the fact that many of the structures now, once again, sit above the waterline. Bare dehydrated trees still line the streets in the parts of the town that sit up over the water and are still without inhabitants.

The mysterious deserted village of Castelnuovo is thinly guarded by a half-broken fence. Located in Tuscany up on a little hill near Arezzo, one of the strangest features of the abandonment is strange quizzes scrawled on the walls of many of the buildings since the area’s desertion – Myst-like puzzles in a likewise abandoned village.

The deserted walled medieval town of Craco had a village located on its site as far back as the 500s AD. Over time, however, it was plagued by, well, plagues … as well as agricultural droughts, rogue banditry and finally insurmountable seismic activity which threatened to bring the whole town down. In the 1960s the last of the residents were evacuated for fear of an earthquake that could level the entire site and the town has since sat entirely abandoned high up on a 400-foot cliff.

Bodie was a quintessential frontier town of the Old West, complete with dozens of saloons, a red light district and a Chinatown. Stories of its history include tales of barroom brawls, stagecoach robberies and other Wild West debauchery. Founded during the Gold Rush the town thrived through the early 20th Century but was subsequently deserted and now is preserved and partially restored to its original state.

Humberstone Chile was built around the rush to produce sodium nitrate as fertilizer. However, when the American economy went bust during the Great Depression demand dropped and by the time the world economy had recovered sufficiently most interested had shifted to other fertilizers leaving this town quite literally in the dust. Structures left behind include an abandoned swimming pool, schools, grocers a market place and a theater.

A thriving coal-mining town sold by Sweden to the former Soviet Union in the early 1920s fell victim to a classic case of soviet state-run company decision-making. Once the town was deemed insufficiently necessary and productive for the government’s purposes it was summarily and suddenly evacuated in its entirety. The population left many relics and furniture items behind which tourists can see through the windows – but not up close as visitors are forbidden (for safety reasons) from entering.

The town of Sewell was constructed at the dizzying height of 6,000 feet high up in the Andes Mountains in Chile. Once home to 15,000 workers who traveled most of the way by rail and then walked the rest the town has now been abandoned for decades. The brightly-colored buildings, however, largely still stand – a tribute to what was once the most extensive underground copper mine in the world.

Little is available online about this picturesque deserted mountain mountain with brightly painted doors and largely intact structures.

The full story of this deserted village is not fully known but many have speculated that it was built to be an exquisite and futuristic holiday village on the water. However, its construction was plagued with problems and was eventually haunted. The strange fiberglass shells of its smoothly circular structures have slowly weathered and in many cases fallen off. Local culture believes that the place may be haunted and locals avoid it.

Kowloon Walled City was a loophole, a glitch never meant to exist. It grew organically devoid of building codes and largely absent of legal oversight, a kind of organic tent city times one thousand. As it grew without rules some areas were cut off entirely from natural light and air, crime ebbed and flowed and everything grew densely packed until the government finally intervened – evacuating the city and demolishing what remained.

The answer is:

1)Abandoned Medieval Town of Balestrino, Italy
2)Abandoned City & Commune of Oradour, France
3)Abandoned Island City of Hashima, Japan
4)Abandoned Desert Ghost Town of Kolmanskop, Africa
5)Abandoned Area of Varosha, Cyprus
6)Abandoned Gulag Concentration Camp
7)Abandoned Town of Centralia, Pennsylvania
8)Abandoned Flooded City of Quabbin, Massachusetts
9)Abandoned War-Torn City of Agdam, Azerbaijan
10)Abandoned Resort Town of Yashima, Japan
11)Abandoned Disaster City of Beichuan, China
12)Deserted Floating City of Oily Rocks, Azerbaijan
13)Deserted Village of Villa Lago Epecun, Argentina
14)Deserted Town of Castelnuovo de’ Sabbioni, Italy
15)Deserted Walled Medieval Town of Craco, Italy
16)Wild West Ghost Town of Bodie, California
17)Deserted Ghost City of Humberstone, Chile
18)Deserted Mining Town of Pyramiden, Sweden
19)Deserted Mining Town of Sewell, Chile
20)Abandoned Mountain Town of Sardinia, Italy
21)Deserted Resort Village of San Zhi, Taiwan
22)Deserted Walled City of Kowloon, Hong Kong

Part 209 - Safety 1st... (",)

2010-10-16T00:15:00.006+08:00

Click to enlarge...

Ha3, it quite funny at the sight of this girl wearing complete protective gears (except glove) when riding to school...

But for me it's ok, because it can safe life, there are no replacement for life...

Get Your Pics Here

Part 208 - Motorcycle Chains Buying Tips & Checks... (",)

2010-10-15T17:28:00.006+08:00

Motorcycle Chains Buying Tips & Checks

Chain Drives
For good reason, chain-driven motorcycles are the most popular type sold today. They're simple to maintain and change by yourself. As long they're maintained regularly, chains are reliable and serve their purpose well. However, there are several differences among motorcycle chain drives that you need to be aware of.

Choosing
Different types of motorcycles will have different chain specifications. Don't pick a chain just by size of the sprocket; take into account the bike and how you ride it. For example, an off-road motorcycle travels through dirt and sand, which will get on the chain, so you would be wise to avoid the use of oil-impregnated sintered bushings.

Length
Make sure you order your motorcycle chain to the right length or you'll need to have your shop cut it down. To determine the right size, check your owner’s manual to determine or mark a link.

X-rings
X-ring motorcycle chains are usually much stronger than the O-ring versions. This is because a chain with more tensile strength will stretch less and handle more power without breaking. X-ring motorcycle chains also tend to last nearly twice as long as an O-ring. So, while you will pay more for an X-ring, you won't have to replace it as often.

O-rings
Unlike X and Y ring chains, O-rings are designed specifically to retain lubrication and to repel dirt and debris. This is the main reason why most modern motorcycles use O-ring motorcycle chains. O-Ring style chains are tougher and last longer, and as a result, they are more expensive than conventional roller chains.

Chin strap locking systems
There are three types of systems: double D-ring (the safest and lightest), quick release (most used and easiest to handle) and lever system (not used a lot and most prone to damage).

I have stood there trying to open that s.. chin strap after a days ride but couldn't. Man do you look silly. Ideally you will get used to the chinstrap of your helmet and can open and close it without any problems.

Rollers
Solid roller motorcycle chains are cheaper to replace, but they're better suited for racing applications because of their lighter weight. Keep in mind that roller motorcycle chains require much more lubrication, though.

Quality
You might be tempted to save a few bucks by buying a cheap chain or sprockets. Don't! We recommend that you get the best quality chain you can afford. The chain is critical to the proper functioning of your motorcycle. Replacing the chain is a difficult job that you should only have to do every 16 – 20,000 miles/km. A cheap chain or sprockets may only last a couple thousand miles/km. It's better to do it right the first time and avoid the trouble and expense in the long run.

Chain maintenance is one of the most frequent things you'll be doing on your motorcycle - having a bike with a center stand is ideal for working on the chain

Check your chain tension half way between the front and back sprocket, about 1 inch / 2,5 cm of play is normal.

Roll the chain along the sprockets when in a neutral position - if the chain has long tight spots (the links are sticking) your chain might need to be replaced.

Pull the chain off the back sprocket, if you can pull it one half of one of the teeth - you're up for a replacement. Also check for nice sharp sprocket teeth.

When tightening a chain, recheck the chain play in the new position you've placed the bike - e.g. on the center stand.

Most motorcycles use o-ring chains versus the conventional chains (o-ring chains last longer) however check that your lubrication doesn't eat away at these o-rings.

Clean the chain before lubing the chain again - apply lubrication at the inside of the chain while the chain is still hot - clean off excessive lube.

Chains and sprockets need to be changed together - it isn't cheap but with good maintenance it will last you a long time.

Refer to your owner manual on how to adjust your chain tension - but make sure to align the tire in the correct way.

Bad alignment of sprockets / chains will wear out any chain in a short time - clean the sprockets and chain and check for irregular wear marks.

Chains can be joined together by a spring clip (easy removable) or a master link (creates an endless chain and needs special tools to remove).

If your chain has a spring clip (for safety reasons) make sure the closed end is pointing towards the travel direction of the bike / chain.

You can also get x-ring chains, which have the same characteristics as an o-ring chain but with less drag.

Watch out for battery acid dripping down on your chain while doing battery maintenance

Credit to --> http://www.best-motorcycle-gear.com/

Part 207 - Old school 70s motorcycle arcade games... (",)

2010-10-15T00:45:00.002+08:00

Old school 70s motorcycle arcade games

Sega Moto Champ - 1973 Arcade Game

“This is a 1973 Sega Moto Champ. The four opponent’s motorcycles are held, by magnets, to an elaborate motion sequencing mechanism located under the roadway. This video does show the mechanism that moves the bikes while the race is underway. The player’s motorcycle is attached to a rod, which leads back to a motor, that your handle bars control. The object of the game is to maneuver your bike in-between the random motion of the other bikes and finish the race in first place. If you succeed, you win one free replay. As you twist the throttle handle to accelerate, you pull ahead of the other bikes and the roadway appears to move faster. This game however, unlike the Kasco Untouchable discussed below, does not use a large moving treadmill for the roadway. The road scene is projected from a rotating drum and lamp assembly that is mounted in the head board."

Bally Hill Climb 1972 - Minibike Arcade Game

“Here we have a 1972 Bally Hill Climb. The player steers a minibike up a steep hill and tries to cover as much ground as possible without popping a wheelie. Any wheelies will stop the bike and cause the player to loose valuable time. An electric motor which is mounted inside the bike actually powers the rear tire to make the bike go. Except the bike doesn’t go anywhere. Instead, the hillside scenery is caused to move beneath the bike by the rotation of the rear tire.”

Part 206 - Weird And Wonderful Custom Motorcycle Helmets... (",)

2010-10-14T13:30:00.009+08:00

Weird And Wonderful Custom Motorcycle Helmets

One of the personal touches we can do for when we go motorcycle riding, is with our helmets. Usually when you buy a motorcycle helmet, they are bland and boring. And although the helmet manufacturers do not recommend it, a touch of paint can do wonders.

When we talk about custom made helmets, Valentino Rossi springs to mind.

Some helmets are quite funny and scary but still wonderful if we wear it while riding...

The motorcycle helmets. Click to enlarge...

He3, ENJOY...

Part 205 - Is This The Future Motorcycle Helmet ?... (",)

2010-10-14T00:42:00.002+08:00

Technology constantly changes as do materials. Carbon fiber helmets have been the recent technology used for motorcycle helmets. Light and impact resistant, it has been THE choice for high-end helmets. But is that going to change ??

A new material has seen the light of day recently. Called D3O and developed by d3oLabs (No, that's not the robot in Star Wars). This ultra light and shock absorbent material has seen itself into the first helmets, called Ribcaps. These "beanie" style helmets are currently used for skiing and snowboarding, but could, I guess, be used to motorcycle helmets.

The advantage of this new technology is obvious. Motorcycle helmets would be very light and flexible, a bit like a hood or a cap. You'd barely notice them, thereby greatly reducing fatigue. But in case of a crash, the material solidifies, thereby absorbing the impact. It's a bit like a liquid helmet.

Therein lies the advance made in this technology. Originally developed by the US Army Labs for body armor, the materials are light and flexible. You can walk with them without the normal resistance felt as with materials such as Kevlar. But when impacted, the materials bind together, and can even stop a bullet.

It's an interesting project. Who knows, maybe we'll be seeing this technology in motorcycle helmets in the not so distant future. But then, the earplug vendors must be rubbing their hands in anticipation of selling a lot of earplugs....

Part 204 - BMW Museum... (",)

2010-10-12T14:16:00.007+08:00

BMW Museum

The BMW Museum is located near the Olympiapark in Munich and was established in 1972 shortly before the Summer Olympics opened. It deals with the history of the automobile manufacturer BMW. In connection with the construction of the BMW Welt, directly opposite the museum, it was renovated from 2004 to 2008. The museum reopened on June 21, 2008.

The "Time Horizon(s)" exhibition

The museum shows BMW's technical development throughout the company's history. It contains engines and turbines, aircraft, motorcycles, and vehicles in a variety of possible variations. In addition to actual models there are futuristic-looking, even conceptual studies from the past 20 years.

The use of headphones and clever, often indirect lighting, lend the exhibition a largely peaceful atmosphere. The emphasis is on technical development and benefits of modernity. The building blends in with the exhibition concept.

Click to enlarge...

Part 203 - Motorcycle Price in Malaysia... (",)

2010-10-11T13:08:00.037+08:00

P/s: Price may different according to shop, this price list for reference only...

Aprilia

RS125
RM24,350.90

RS125 Racing Colours
RM26,296.90

Aprilia Sportcity 200
RM14,218.45

Aprilia RXV550
RM43,300.00

Aprilia RXV450
RM39,900.00

Aprilia SXV550
RM56,014.25

Aprilia Pegaso Strada 650
RM47,825.25

Shiver 750
RM54,377.50

Mana 850
RM58,674.65

Aprilia Tuono 1000R
RM78,428.75

Aprilia SL Falco 1000
RM62,258.63

Aprilia RSV 1000 Factory
RM82,300.00

Moto Guzzi California EV 1100
RM81,327.00

BMW

BMW G650 X Country
RM66,271.25

BMW G650 X Moto
RM71,556.25

BMW G650 X Challenge
RM68,177.50

BMW F800S
RM70,630.00

BMW F800ST
RM75,035.00

BMW K1200S
RM108,822.50

BMW K1200GT
RM130,721.25

BMW R1200GS
RM113,577.50

BMW R1200GS Adventure
RM120,911.25

BMW R1200RT
RM127,732.50

BMW HP2 Enduro
RM112,927.50

Kawasaki

Kawasaki Vulcan 2000
RM110,900.00

Kawasaki Vulcan 2000 Classic LT
RM115,900.00

Kawasaki Vulcan 1700 Nomad (Special colours)
RM93,900.00

Kawasaki 1400 GTR (ABS)
RM104,900.00

Kawasaki Ninja ZX-14
RM85,900.00

Kawasaki Z1000
RM71,900.00

Kawasaki Ninja ZX-10R
RM81,900.00

Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic
RM55,900.00

Kawasaki Z750
RM56,900.00

Kawasaki Versys
RM47,900.00

Kawasaki KLR650
RM39,900.00

Kawasaki ZX-6R
RM66,900.00

Kawasaki ER-6N
RM34,250.00 (OTR)

Kawasaki ER-6F
RM41,900.00

Kawasaki D-Tracker
RM23,799.00

Kawasaki KLX-250
RM22,799.00

Kawasaki KSR-110
RM6,700.00

Vulcan 900 Custom
RM57,900.00

Vulcan 900 Classic LT
RM66,900.00

Vulcan 1700 Voyager (ABS)
RM125,900.00

KLX450R
RM31,500.00

KX450F
RM29,500.00

Ninja KRR ZX150
RM8,899.00

Ninja 250R
RM20,389.00

Honda

EX5 Dream
RM3,888.00

EX5 Dream (Full specification)
RM4,136.00

Wave 100
RM3,968.00

Wave 100R
RM4,288.00

Wave 100R (Full specification)
RM4,588.00

Wave S125
RM4,944.00

Wave S125 (Full specification)
RM5,226.00

Click AT
RM6,114.00

CBR150R
RM10,219.15

Wave 125SX
RM5,198.00

Icon
RM4,688

Yamaha

Lagenda 110Z
RM4,566.60

Lagenda 110Z (Full specification)
RM4,875.80

Lagenda 110ZR
RM5,125.00

Ego S
RM4,638.00

Nuovo S
RM5,258.40

Nuovo LC
RM6,028.00

Y125ZR
RM6,617.80

135LC
RM5,936.80

135LC ES
RM6,239.60

RXZ
RM7,154.10

FZ150i
RM7,798.00

Yamaha R6

RM 76,000.00

Yamaha R1

RM 90K+

Suzuki

Smash Revo
RM3,685.80

Smash Revo SD (Full specification)
RM4,183.80

Shogun 125 RR
RM5,253.75

Shogun 125 SP
RM5,400.25

VS150
RM6,118.00

Step 125 (Full specification)
RM4,883.00

Naza

Prisma 125
RM3,466.00

Flash 125
RM3,688.00

Symphony
RM3,903.00

Blitz
RM5,298.00

GTR 150S
RM6,732.00

GTR 150X
RM7,388.00

Blade 250
RM14,988.00

Blade 250R
RM18,400.00

Blade 650
RM25,162.00

Blade 650R
RM29,572.00

Cruise 250
RM14,488.00

Cruise 650
RM32,088.00

Mofaz

Cagiva Raptor 125 RM24,300.00	Cagiva Momos Mito 125 RM18,500.00	Momos Forza 135 RM7,476.70
Momos Boxer 200 RM7,117.83	Momos Pantera CX135 RM5,750.45 Momos Pantera CX135 SM Comfort RM5,750.45	Momos Tigris 135R RM5,750.45
MV Agusta F4 1000 RM118,673.75	Brutale 910R RM102,311.25	Cagiva X-Raptor 1000 RM69,807.00
Lite 125 RM4,000.00	Forza II 135 RM6,900.00	Boxer RS250 RM8,900.00

Modenas

Kriss 110SE (Full specification)
RM4,193.75

Kriss 120H
RM4,606.75

Kriss 120R
RM4,305.75

Elegan
RM6,348.60

Jaguh
RM6,197.65

Elit Sports
RM6,201.90

Dinamik
RM5,860.75

Kymco Star Asia

Wish X110
RM4,126.00

Kymco Bet&Win 150
RM7,371.77

Kymco Visa 110
RM4,476.00

Kymco Quanon 125
RM9,518.00

Venox 250
RM19,750.65

Agility 125
RM5,297.25

Free LX 115
RM5,197.00

Evo 110
RM4,594.00

Twist Z110
RM4,594.00

Wish Z110
RM3,968.00

Piaggio

X 8 250
RM24,555.50

MP3 250
RM36,131.25

X Evo 400
RM32,698.70

Gilera

GP 800
RM62,603.70

Fuoco 500
RM47,066.20

Runner VXR 200
RM18,157.70

Nexus 500
RM34,399.00

Vespa

LX 150
RM17,631.45

GTS 250
RM25,795.50

150
RM8,938.35

GTV 250
RM29,576.75

GTS300
RM39,576.75

Part 202 - Stop or DIE???... (",)

2010-10-10T23:14:00.004+08:00

City traffic lights. you would think, are pretty simple devices. They are, after all, only three different colored lights with some switches and timers. And while red and green are obvious, you'd think that the meaning of the yellow light wouldn't take a rocket scientist to figure out.

I could be wrong, of course. (Most intersection accidents seem to happen in relation to that light.)

I intend to help humanity with this rather simple article. I would like to take any confusion regarding the yellow light away with a concept so obvious that it probably is already known to all:

Yellow is either Red or Green

In other words, the yellow light either means stop or go. Now all we have to figure out is when it means stop and when it means go. (grin)

When you notice that a light is yellow and if you are able to stop before entering the intersection, yellow means 'stop'. At all other times yellow means 'go, but use caution'. Please note that a yellow light NEVER means 'speed up'. Please also note that a green light ALSO means 'go, but use caution'!!!

So now YOU know the rules, but you should assume that nobody else does. In other words, when you are waiting for a light to turn green, after it does you should assume that someone is going to be in the intersection trying to stretch out the yellow as it turns red. A head check is absolutely critical before entering an intersection when your light turns green.

Part 201 - * Report Ride To Singapore *26/02/2010 - 28/02/2010 *** ... (",)

2010-04-05T22:10:00.004+08:00

Report ride to Singapore 26/02/2010 - 28/02/2010

we ride...

we cry...

we laugh...

we hate....

we complaint...

we dissagree....

we shared...

we joy...

and at the end we are brothers...

2stroke enjin ber 2T

keluar asap berkepul-kepul
riang hati hari bercuti
di Sg.Besi tempat berkumpul

tuang minyak sebelum habis
menunggang motor penuh tumpuan
CC besar dan kecik pelbagai jenis
tapi sayang 110km/j had kelajuan

bergerak berkumpulan disiang hari
jangan tertinggal harus waspada
setelah tiba berehatkan diri
penat hilang geng MBC terus meronda

hari malam tidur pun lena
esok pagi mula perjalanan
ke Woodland checkpoint diseberang sana
MBC bergerak dalam kumpulan

dikota Singa tiba bersama
bagai terasa dialam syurga
sehari suntuk dimanfaatkan bersama
wajib bersolat dijanjikan syurga

mentari sembunyi keluar si bulan
Mrs-Mrs geng MBC nampak keletihan
menuju pulang terus perjalanan
balik keHotel tak kan dilupakan

bangun pagi barang tersedia
sempat mandi bersihkan air liur basi
jam 1030 semua bersedia
MBC gerak balik ke destinasi

aktiviti selesai dengan selamat
kenangan indah jadi kenangan
geng MBC memang cukup hebat
DNA Marshall kuda putih jangan dilupakan!!!

Part 200 - Riding Skills Series: Motorcycle Crashing... (",)

2010-04-02T00:53:00.001+08:00

Riding Skills Series: Motorcycle Crashing

Yes, it can be a skill

One of the sad realities of our sport is that crashes occur more often than we'd like, and those crashes often end with an injury. Rather than avoid thinking about the possibility and what you would do in the event of a tipover, you can help minimize the resultant injuries with some forethought and action during the crash itself. Fortunately or unfortunately (depending on your viewpoint), the Sport Rider staff has plenty of experience in this area, and has learned the skills associated with crashing a motorcycle.

First, however, it can't be stressed enough that your goal-especially on the street-is to stay upright and on two wheels. There is no "badge of honor" or prize money for crashing, and no judges with scorecards. There are far too many immovable objects to hit and an accordingly higher risk of major injury. Things are different on the track, however. Learning skills and improving as a rider means toeing the line occasionally, and crashing is more likely. You've heard it before, but we can't say it enough: If you're going to be pushing your limits, take it to the track.

Before you even turn a wheel, you should be prepared for an accident. Good gear is a must, as is a motorcycle in proper working order. You definitely don't want to crash because your tire pressures are low, or for any other similarly avoidable reason. And you have to wear your gear (rather than leave it at home) for it to work. Being in good physical shape can help lessen the severity of your injuries in a crash; stretching regularly, and before you ride, can help as well.

Now for the crash itself. Our first instinct in an accident is to tense up and perhaps close our eyes-the completely wrong response. There is plenty to do in a crash, and you want your eyes open to see what's going on. Try to stay alert, and don't simply give up and wait for the sky-ground-sky-ground to stop. That said, one big mistake that many riders make is holding on to the motorcycle well past the point of no return. Racers sometimes get credit for keeping a death grip on the clip-ons, allowing them to get back up and in the race all the more quickly. The reality is that by holding on and staying close to the bike, you are increasing your chances of getting hit or caught up in the flying machinery. Let go once you realize a crash is inevitable, and if possible even push the bike away from you.

With the crash now running its course and the ground rushing up at you, it's important to stay as relaxed as possible and not tense your limbs. In any type of fall, resist the natural urge to try and cushion a fall with your hands; trying to break your fall with an outstretched arm will almost certainly result in a broken wrist. Your gear is padded in strategic places for just this occasion, and it's best to let the padded (and stronger) areas of your body such as the outer portion of your arms, shoulders, and back take the brunt of the impact rather than your hands and wrists-the least-protected (and most fragile) portion of your body. If you can make it past the initial landing without serious injury, chances are good you'll walk away when it's over.

Once you've initially hit the ground, the object is to do whatever possible to avoid starting to tumble. While it's generally good to keep the outer portion of your limbs from flailing about, you need to try and spread yourself out in order to avert tumbling; the more you are tucked into a ball, the more likely you are to tumble-which will almost assuredly result in broken bones and prolonging of the actual fall itself. If possible, orient yourself so you are sliding on your back, hopefully feet first. Your back protector (you are wearing a back protector, aren't you?) makes a nice wide, flat surface to spread the load over, as well as protecting you from localized hot spots and road rash, and the more surface area you can drag on the pavement, the more you'll scrub off speed and the quicker you'll come to a stop. The important part to remember through all this is to remain as relaxed as possible, while still moving parts of your body to avoid additional injury. For instance, curbing at the edge of the racetrack is easy to catch something on, and you want to "surf" over this area as smoothly as you can; by slightly lifting whichever limb is at the forefront of your slide, you can avoid catching something and starting a tumble. Sound impossible? You'd be surprised at what you can accomplish sliding along the asphalt, and how much that effort can save you from pain later on.

Another big mistake made by first-time fallers is to try and get up while they are still moving. This is another recipe for tumbling, and it's worth being certain that you are stopped before attempting to move. A good policy is to count to ten after you think you have stopped, and be sure the crash is over. If you're on the road or racing surface you'll want to extricate yourself if possible; otherwise, take inventory of your body and if anything is unusually painful, wait for help to arrive.

read full caption

Even if you avoid serious injury in a crash, there is always the stiffness and soreness to deal with during the days after. Alternate ice and heat on especially hurtful bits, and stretch regularly to avoid having your muscles tighten up. Of course, go to the hospital or see your doctor if something seems amiss. Most importantly, learn from your experience-hopefully you won't have to put that knowledge to use again, but it doesn't hurt to be prepared.

Source --> http://www.sportrider.com/

Part 199 - Using The Rear Brake... (",)

2010-03-22T12:32:00.002+08:00

Using The Rear Brake

Riding Skills Series

Perhaps the control that is most often misused on a motorcycle, the rear brake can be utilized in a variety of situations to surprisingly good effect. Ask any group how much they use the rear binder, and you'll get the whole spectrum of answers; from old-school riders that use only the rear brake, to some that won't touch it no matter what. Proper use for everyday riding lies somewhere in between those two extremes. But for a control that has very little effect on actually stopping the motorcycle, the rear brake can be used in subtle (and maybe surprising) ways to your advantage.

To master these subtleties it's first important that you are intimately familiar with your rear brake and how strong-or weak-it is, and how much its power is affected by weight transfer. First be sure that everything is in working order and correctly adjusted. The brake pedal should be a few millimeters clear of your foot when you are sitting in a comfortable position on the bike, so that your foot is not in danger of resting on it but it is easy to reach. In a clean, dry open space such as a deserted parking lot, practice coming to a stop using only the rear brake-lightly at first, then with more effort. If the brake locks at any time, keep it locked until you're at a complete stop. Releasing the brake when you are in a skid and the wheels are out of line will put you on the ground faster than you can say "oops". Experiment with both the clutch pulled in and the clutch released, and notice how the dynamics change: With the clutch out and the engine pulling the rear wheel along, you should have a lot more control over the brake and it will be much less prone to locking. Note too how the rear end of your bike squats when you apply the rear brake. The geometry of the swingarm serves to pull the back of the bike down under braking-something you can use to your advantage.

Now add the front brake to the equation. You'll notice that the more front brake you use, the less effective-and harder to control-the rear brake is. It will lock up easier as weight transfer unloads the rear wheel. Some racers avoid using the rear binder on the track; they use so much front brake that the rear wheel is in the air, rendering the rear brake ineffective. In a basic stopping situation on the street, you want to use mostly the front brake with some rear. Using the rear brake, even slightly, will help to lower the center of gravity, adding stability to the situation and letting you brake harder in a panic stop. If the situation allows, touching the rear brake a half-second before the front will settle things more. Experiment to find what works best and is comfortable for you to execute with confidence.

Now for the subtleties. Say you find yourself in a sweeping turn with a bit too much speed, or the corner tightens up slightly. Chopping the throttle and using the front brake will load up the front end, possibly overpowering tire traction and causing a crash. But in this situation, holding the throttle steady and applying a small amount of rear brake can scrub off just enough speed and actually help to tighten your line. The rear brake is much better at modulating your speed than the throttle and/or front brake; with the clutch out and the throttle steady, you'll find that you've got a surprising amount of control with the pedal alone. This is especially effective on a downhill turn, where keeping even slight maintenance throttle will have the bike accelerating. The rear brake will easily keep this in check while letting you stay on the throttle to avoid overloading the front tire.

As an added bonus, the above technique can minimize the effects of an abrupt throttle response or excessive engine braking. If you're not modulating your speed with the throttle, you won't have to worry as much about either characteristic, letting you concentrate more on corner speed or what's coming up around the turn. One thing to mind in all this: rolling on an excessive amount of throttle but keeping the brake on will quickly wear the pads out, and give you a surprise when you do let the brake off and your bike leaps forward.

In general, the less traction that is available the more rear brake you can-and should-use. On a slippery surface the front brake will lock well before much weight can transfer to the front tire; ergo, there is plenty of weight left on the rear tire for traction and you should use that to your advantage. Again, use care as the rear wheel-just like the front-will lock earlier on wet pavement than on dry, and overall you'll still have less braking power available.

Finally, downhill corner entries pose a bit of a conundrum. Here there is more than usual weight transfer to the front wheel under braking, leaving the rear brake less useful. However, this situation is exactly where you want the extra stability it can offer. Adding even a small amount of rear brake can make a beneficial difference to how the bike reacts downhill, to the point that at times it may be worth sacrificing some front brake so that you can use more rear. Experiment here with different combinations to find what works best for you and your bike.

Most importantly, don't simply ignore the rear brake-whether because you think it takes too much concentration or you're worried about it locking. It may take some practice to fully utilize it properly, but that practice will come in handy some day. All that said, try not to rely on it excessively. It's more a tool to finely adjust your speed and help settle the chassis than just a stopping device.

Source --> http://www.sportrider.com/

Part 198 - One Rule That Will Keep You Alive On City Streets... (",)

2010-03-22T12:02:00.002+08:00

One Rule That Will Keep You Alive
On City Streets

Of all the things that we learn being out on the streets with our bikes, one stands out as the all time life-saver in my book.

If you can avoid it, never enter an intersection without another vehicle on your right side.

(It should be noted that this advice assumes you ride in a country where people drive on the right side of the road.)

If you have to slow down in order to let a vehicle catch up with you on the right side, or if you have to increase speed a little so that you catch up with another vehicle, having one on your right side is as safe as it gets for entering an intersection.

Obviously this also means that if you are stopped at a traffic light and it turns green, you enter the intersection when the vehicle on your right does - no jack rabbit jumps if you want to live.

Too tame? Could be, but this rider likes it that way. In fact, I'd rather that the vehicle on my right was a bus or even an 18-wheeler.

By the way, it is safer that the vehicle be on your right than on the left. The closer you can be to the center of the intersection when you go through it, the more air there is (on average) between you and somebody that comes at you from either side. This is just another way of saying that if you have to enter the intersection by yourself, do it in the left most lane.

Source --> http://www.msgroup.org/

Part 197 - Tire Pressure... (",)

2010-03-15T14:21:00.001+08:00

Tire Pressure
More temperature sensitive than you might think

As we are now into the colder months of the year I thought it appropriate to post a reminder about tire pressures and the effect of temperature on same.

Stamped on the outside of many of your tires is a recommended tire pressure range. (At least an upper limit.) For longest tire life it is my recommendation that you strive to keep them at the higher limit of those recommendations (regardless of what your motorcycle owner's manual might say to the contrary.) Further, this pressure should be determined while the tires are cold - meaning, have not been used for a couple of hours.

Time and outside temperature effect the pressure within your tires. It is NORMAL for a tire to lose about 1 pound per square inch (psi) per month. Outside temperatures affect your tire pressure far more profoundly, however. A tire's pressure can change by 1 psi for every 10 degrees Fahrenheit of temperature change. As temperature goes, so goes pressure.

For example, if a tire is found to have 38 psi on an 80-degree mid-summer day, it could lose enough air to have an inflation pressure of 26 psi on a 20-degree day six months later. This represents a loss of 6 psi over six months and an additional loss of 6 psi due to the 60 degree temperature reduction.

At 26 psi, your tire is severely under inflated and dangerous!

There is nothing wrong with your tire if it behaves like this, of course. What is being illustrated here is that you MUST check your tire pressure on a regular basis (about once a week is reasonable) and to be particularly aware of it on cold days.

Source --> http://www.msgroup.org/

Part 196 - Excessive Tire Wear A list of causes... (",)

2010-03-01T15:36:00.003+08:00

Excessive Tire Wear
A list of causes
Excessive tire wear, and/or cupping, is a problem that most motorcyclists experience over time. Too often this is simply the result of failing to maintain proper tire pressure. However, this is far from a complete answer.

Cupping is a phenomena that is absolutely normal! Excessive cupping or excessive wear on one side of the tire as compared to the other is not.

There are at least seven causes of cupping and/or uneven wear in the front tire other than tire air pressure:

Most roads are banked away from the center. Thus, if you ride vertical, the side of your tire closest to the center of the road wears more.

Your tires 'scuff' when you force a speed change with them. The rear tire scuffs when you accelerate and when you brake (and every time you ride in a direction other than straight ahead.) Thus, it tends to have even 'cupping' as compared to the front tire (which scuffs when you brake but not when you accelerate.)

While alignment is not usually a problem with motorcycles - it can be.

Carrying an unevenly divided load (all your tools, jumper cable, etc.) in one saddlebag can result in your riding the bike other than vertical most of the time.

Setting your TRAC (anti-dive) unequally can easily cause uneven tire wear.

If one of your front shocks is defective you will experience uneven tire wear.

Excessive use of the front brake will result in excessive cupping.

Source --> http://www.msgroup.org/

Part 195 - Teaching A Newbie To Lean Actually, helpful hints for all... (",)

2010-02-25T11:29:00.003+08:00

Part 195 - Teaching A Newbie To Lean Actually, helpful hints for all

There are two things that tend to cause new riders to want to keep their bikes vertical:

They are afraid, based on a previous dump caused by a combination of slow-speed turn and the application of brakes.

They are afraid, based on a concern that their engines will die in a slow speed turn and result in a dump.

Engine's die if they are cold and not properly choked or if setup with idle too slow. Thus, you do not practice slow speed turns with a cold bike. The rider must 'know' that their engines will continue to run without having to 'race' them. Otherwise, they focus on throttle action rather than balance during their turns.

One trick I have learned that tends to loosen up fears of leaving the vertical for newbies is to have them experience 'low center of gravity' - first with their imaginations, then in real life. That is, I have them imagine a broomstick with a bowling ball fastened on one end. I ask them to imagine holding that broomstick with one end on the ground and the end with the bowling ball on it straight into the air. I ask them to tell me how far they would allow the top of the broomstick to move away from vertical. They understand instantly that you need to keep that broomstick standing virtually straight up or it will fall. Then I ask them the same question with the only difference being that the bowling ball end is on the ground. Clearly the top of the stick can wander very far indeed from being straight up without fear of losing control of it. This is the 'power' of having a low center of gravity.

[This article represents parking lot practice exercises I put together for some friends before I became an MSF Instructor. I never 'taught' motorcycle riding to anyone except friends other than as an MSF Instructor.]

Then I have them drive their bikes while standing on their pegs rather than sitting in the saddle. I ask them to 'weave a little' but not to allow their heads to move at all. The bikes are moved left and right under them, but manage a relatively straight line. There is not the slightest possibility that they will fall. Clearly the center of gravity must be very low for this to be true and they see that. I ask them to make a few more laps, keeping their heads 'straight up', but this time sitting in their saddles.

While most of us enjoy leaning with our bikes when we make turns, I have found that a newbie can be encouraged to lean their bikes more easily if you show them that they can do so without they themselves having to lean. Thus, after I have them 'weave a little' while keeping their heads in the same place, I have them make a turn leaning only their bikes. Keeping their heads absolutely vertical so that they 'see the horizon the same way all the time'. This is almost nonsense, but it does seem to work for some. After a few laps they are amazed at how far they have managed to lean their bikes without moving their heads from vertical. I have them practice this until they are able to 'push the bike away from them until their arms are straight.' It gets easier over time.

Now, as to how to get them to lean their bikes and make sweet turns - In a parking lot I have them sit on their bikes (engine running) at a dead stop and then turn their handlebars all the way to their stops in both directions. I insist that from either extreme they can drive away from where they are. To begin with, they are to slip their clutches and walk the bikes out of their positions. This is most intimidating, but proves to be easy enough with effort. I have them practice this in both directions.

Then I challenge them: "OK, that is a simple exercise for you to do each time you come to this parking lot. Full stop, handlebars turned in either direction to their full stop position, then drive out of it. Oh, and for your personal score, see how fast you can get your feet onto the pegs." Before they know it they are leaning their bikes instantly, feet up on their pegs, from a dead stop and they can make any corner they ever come to.

Please! You must explain to them that they will drop their bikes if they ever hit the brakes doing this!!! That slow speed turning and brakes do not mix well. That is why I teach them that a slow speed dump is nothing to be afraid of first.

Finally, I show them some VCR footage of motorcycle racing. I point out how the rider keeps his head vertical and that if the bike is moving 20 MPH or more you can SAFELY lean it until the pegs touch the ground!! That you must get into your head that if you think it cannot lean any farther then THAT is the time that you should lean it a bit farther and to roll on a bit more gas (not less!!!!).

In all of the practice I misdirect their minds away from their brakes. I constantly tell them that slow speed control is a function of the left hand, not the right. I make them play with their friction-zones using the clutch to see how slowly they can drive in a straight line! I tell them, over and over, that if you are leaning a bike (meaning you are turning) you MUST NOT USE YOUR BRAKE or you will dump it. (I remind you that this is SLOW SPEED advice.) That to stop you must straighten the bike out FIRST! (This is ANY SPEED advice.) Anyway, these lessons all conspire to demonstrate that they are capable of controlling a bike at slow speeds better than they imagined. And they soon take corners like a pro. Leaning becomes 'fun' and 'normal'.

Source --> http://www.msgroup.org/

Biker Boyz

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