Bikes Alters

Motorcycle Painting Tips

2012-03-28T09:56:00.004-07:00

Painting a motorcycle can be a time-consuming undertaking requiring careful preparation followed by hours or even days of waiting between steps. Making a mistake during the process can be easily done and may cause you to have to start over. The key to doing the job well lies in paying attention to the details during each step. By following a few painting tips, you can remove the uncertainty and finish with a paint job that you'll be more than happy with.

Preparation
To get a quality paint job on your motorcycle, you'll have to do quite a bit of preparation work. Sanding before painting is critical, and the method used will determine the paint surface you have to work with. Use wet or dry sandpaper in a number of grits including 220, 400 and 600. You'll want to work with the rougher grades of sandpaper first, beginning with the 220 to remove scratches or gouges then work your way up to the 400 or 600 to create a smooth surface to begin painting on. Take special care when working on contoured areas as it can be difficult to sand evenly there.
Primer
When you've completed the sanding, you'll need to apply primer to your motorcycle. The primer has two purposes: to provide a surface for the enamel color coats to adhere to and to hide imperfections left over after the sanding process. Sand the primer surfaces slightly between each layer to increase the smoothness. Apply primer layers until there are no imperfections left in the surface from the metal, about three to four coats. Do not sand the final layer of primer before applying your first layer of paint. An unsanded primer coat will help your first enamel paint layer stick.

Enamel Colors
Apply your enamel color coats to the motorcycle a layer at a time using smooth strokes of the paint can. Begin each paint color pass slightly before the start of your target surface and end slightly after so that you won't have heavy paint accumulation at starting and ending points. As with your primer layers, you'll want each layer to dry completely before sanding and applying the next layer. Drying time between layers can be anywhere from a few hours to several days, depending on the paint you're using. For sanding between color layers, use fine-grit wet sandpaper such as 1000 or 1500 and 2000 on the layer before the final coating, leaving the final layer unsanded. Expect to apply about three to five coats of enamel color for a complete paint job.
Finishing
To protect your paint job, apply a clear coat over the final layer of paint. As with the other paint layers, you'll need to use multiple clear coat layers, three to five in total. For sanding between layers of clear coat, use a 1500-grit sandpaper, but take extra care not to sand through to a lower layer as this will cause a cloudiness in the coating, which will ruin its look.
After clear coating, use a finishing compound to buff to a glossy shine with a lamb's wool pad. Go over the painted bike with a terry cloth to complete the buff.
painted bikes

12 Simple but effective tweaks.....that'll improve your streetbike

2012-03-28T09:33:00.000-07:00

Inflate/check tires
We know. Like several of the following items, this one seems too obvious. And for riders who keep a close eye on such things, it is. But proper tire inflation--along with routine tread-wear check--is key to a fine-handling motorcycle. It's also cheap insurance that can keep you from stepping off your bike in an unplanned way. Always be sure your bike's tires are inflated to the correct pressure(s). That doesn't mean the max pressure number listed on the tire's sidewall; that number is reserved for heavy-duty riding (two-up, loaded with luggage, etc.). We've always found the mid-30s (34-38 psi) to be a good overall pressure range. Slightly lower pressures (low 30s) typically result in more grip (and more wear), while higher pressures equal less wear and firmer ride qualities. Also, check the tread for wear, especially the uneven sort. Cupping around the edges or a flat-spotted tread crown can adversely affect handling. If you find these conditions, replace the tire.

Lube cables and control pivots
Again, a simple-but-important tweak. A small cable oiler will help you shoot proper lube deep into the cable sheath, which will vastly improve lever/pedal/throttle feel and make cables last longer. Lubing control pivots can take more time, but the improvement in feel and bike control will be significant. A rider can't make the sort of delicate, precise inputs sometimes necessary if the controls feel like the rider is trying to break a chicken's neck. Use a light oil such as Bel-Ray 6-in-1. WD40 is a water displacer and not an ideal lubricant, though it will work in a pinch. Worn cables should be replaced.

Adjust throttle cable
Carefully adjust the amount of slack in your throttle cable. Trying to feed in just the right amount of throttle when accelerating from a corner or maneuvering between cars in a parking lot is difficult if you have to wind in a yard of slack before the carburetor/fuel-injection butterflys open. Likewise, not enough slack can make throttle response hard to control. Just a slight amount of slack will do. As always, check your bike's owner's or service manual for correct settings.

Adjust controls to fit
Position your bike's various controls where they fit you, the rider. Just because the levers and pedal(s) are where the dimwitted set-up kid (that would've been most of us in our early years) put them doesn't mean that's where they ought to be for you. If you have physical issues and subsequent pains after a ride, change the bike by putting on new handlebars/clip-ons of a different bend or reach.

Lube and adjust chain
Again, an obvious one. A dry, rusty or dirty chain sucks up and wastes well-earned horsepower. And an improperly adjusted chain complicates things by adding driveline lash and imprecision to the whole throttle-on, throttle-off experience. Loose and dirty chains are also noisy, prone to breakage and ugly. Who wants that?

Change oil and filter
Be sure to use a high-quality, motorcycle-specific synthetic (or semi-synthetic) oil along with a quality filter. Do not use common motor oil from the local hardware store; it contains low-friction additives that don't agree with your bike's clutch. If you haven't done this in a lot of miles, you will be able to feel and hear a difference.

Set suspension sag
We showed you how to do this in our August '05 issue, so you have no excuse. Once your bike's front and rear suspension systems are balanced (which setting sag will accomplish), your bike will handle better and feel more precise and balanced--provided the rest of the suspension adjustments and tire pressures aren't out of whack. Also set damping (explored in our September '05 issue). If components are worn out, replace or rebuild them. Shocks and fork assemblies with 40,000 miles on them don't play well with other children.
Install headlight modulator and/or high-wattage bulb
These are some of the most effective safety/conspicuity mods you can make. Higher-wattage bulbs are available through a number of aftermarket outlets and push your nighttime see-clearly zone significantly forward.

Adding a headlight modulator is similarly helpful. Such devices vary the intensity of the headlight at a high rate of speed to catch the attention of oncoming drivers. Riders who've tried modulators swear by them. Kisan Technologies (www.kisantech.com) is a leading supplier of such devices, and has an excellent reputation.
Fit a loud horn
Today's stock bike horns are louder than ever, but if you really want motorists to hear you (or know where you are), upgrading to an aftermarket unit is a good idea. Fiamm makes a wide range of louder-than-stock horns that are available through a wide range of outlets.

Change your seat
With all the improvements we've seen in the two-wheeled world over the last couple of decades, you'd think seat-comfort issues would have been banished by now. But no.

Some bike saddles--especially those fitted to certain cruisers--remain significantly comfort-challenged, so the aftermarket remains a hot spot for modifications. Corbin (www.corbin.com) and Mustang (www.mustangseats.com) are two names to look for, but try to test the seat you're looking for before you buy; a custom seat that's comfy for another rider may not work for you.
Dyno tune
Have a reputable shop dyno your bike and check its tailpipe emissions with an exhaust-gas analyzer. Depending on the results (too lean, too rich), you might want to either rejet your bike's carbs or fit a fuel-injection module such as the venerable Dynojet Power Commander to achieve a proper air/fuel ratio. Also, treat your bike to a full tune and service, which will handle many of the above service-oriented checks (oil change, chain lube and adjustment, etc.) and ensure its valves are set correctly and its carbs are synched.
Clean and detail
Set aside a few hours one weekend afternoon and thoroughly clean and detail your bike. It's not that hard, especially if you have our November '98 issue handy to guide you through the process. Think how good you'll feel afterward--and how jealous your riding buddies will be! A good cleaning will also force you to look closely at your motorcycle so you can, hopefully, spot little problems before they become big ones. Plus, it's a real bonding experience. Now let's all play drums, hold hands and sing "Kumbaya.

Motorcycle Engine Rebuilds & Transmission Work

2012-03-28T09:12:00.000-07:00

Motorcycle Head

Standard

New valve covers
All new studs
New 34mm Mikuni conversion is CNW standard carburetion
Head and cylinder barrel surfaced to insure flatness
Combustion chamber volumes are equalized
Precision 3 angle cut on valve seats
New bronze valve guides
New Black Diamond valves
New valve springs and insulators
New mushroom head tappet adjusters
Rockers and rocker spindles replaced as required
New rocker thrust washers and locating springs
New cast stainless steel exhaust nuts
New cast stainless steel rocker spindle covers
New stainless steel head fasteners, complete set
Glass bead blasting
"Show" polished rocker covers with stainless steel nuts
Braided stainless steel overhead oil lines with chrome banjos
Improved intake valve seals

Extras

Exhaust port thread repair
Fin repair as required
Spark plug helicoils

Motorcycle Cylinder Barrel and Pistons

Standard

Pistons, pins and rings are weighted to match within 0.0 (tenth) grams
Barrel is surfaced for flatness
Barrel is shot peened, pressure washed and durable high gloss finish applied
Barrel is precision bored and honed to correct tolerance
Cam followers/lifters are surface ground
New pistons and rings
New stainless steel fasteners
Barrel base studs are replaced

Extras

Fin repair as required
Lifter replacement as required, pairs only
Barrel re-sleeving

Motorcycle Bottom End

Standard

New camshaft (several grinds available)
New oilpump
New pointscover
All new crankshaft hardware
Rods are weighted to match within 0.0 (tenth) grams
All crankcase hardware is replaced with new stainless steel
Crankshaft is magnafluxed, then ground and polished as required
Rods inspected, appropriate repair of nicks, etc.
New big end bearings installed
Crankcase timing side modified for improved breathing as required
New cam bushings as required
Crankcase is glass bead blasted and pressure washed
Crank breather check valve installed
Anti wet sump check valve installed
Magnet added to sump strainer
New main bearings installed
All crankshaft keys are replaced
Cam chain and adjuster replaced as required
Upgraded tachometer drive seal installed
Covers are polished to "show" standard
Rods cut down and resized to ensure roundness

Extras

Crankshaft or crankcase replaced if required

Motorcycle Primary Case and Drive

Standard

New belt drive
New outer primary cover
New Barnett steel and friction plates installed
New hardened clutch center installed as required
New clutch basket bearing installed as required
Clutch pushrod seal by Dave Comeau installed
New stainless steel fasteners and replated studs throughout
New inspection caps

Motorcycle Transmission

Standard

New inner mainshaft bearing installed
Transmission case bead blasted and pressure washed
Gear bushings replaced as required
Upgraded layshaft roller bearing installed
New mainshaft bearing and seal installed
New countershaft sprocket, specific to 520 "O" ring chain
Outer cover machined to accept MKIII kickstart shaft seal upgrade
New "quad" rings replace all "O" rings throughout
New shift linkage springs installed
New MKIII kickstarter arm assembly
Covers polished to "show" standard
All new stainless steel hardware
New inspection cover

Extras

Gear sets as required or requested
Layshaft or mainshaft replacement if required

Teflon Coating For Your Bike

2012-03-26T04:57:00.001-07:00

Washing

This is the first step, the painted areas and the plastic parts like mudguards, speedometer etc are washed with a mild shampoo to make them free of dirt and dust, the surfaces are then wiped and dried. This is done so that the paint remains free of dust particles once the coating is applied. A soft cloth is used to make sure no unwanted scratches are also caused so as to ensure maximum quality.

Polishing

This step involves the application of polish on the painted surfaces. Typical car waxes and polishes are used in this step and in this case, 3M Car Wax. This is done so that once the paint has maximum possible shine and gloss before it is coated with Teflon.

This process can make dull paints look significantly brighter. Older bikes would have a much better appearance once this step is done. Differences are noticeable on shades like black which visibly fade easily and are the hardest to maintain.

Teflon Coating

This is the final step in the process, this was when I finally got to see the tiny bottle of prized liquid, Teflon. It has a particularly pungent smell to it when it is applied onto the paint. This smell however, disappears once it has dried. A soft cotton cloth is used to apply this liquid onto all the painted areas over the bike. It is then left to dry for a few minutes.

When the drops of Teflon dry up, it bonds to the surface, this is when the people start to use another piece of dry cotton to massage it onto the surface and turn It into another layer of a transparent, shiny coating. This can be quite laborious as a lot of effort is required; which is why at some centers polishing equipment is used. Once signs of the drops have disappeared, it is wiped once again with a clean cloth to make it free of any residue or dust.

The polishing of other plastic parts is done using a typical liquid car-dashboard polish. This brings out the shine in the non shiny parts and can leave the bike looking better than what it was when it came out of the showroom.

Differences:

Even though the bike was brand new, just having run 1,200Km, the paint became much more glossy and shiny. It actually looked better than what it was like in the showroom.

The new coating is claimed to offer minor scratch resistance, one hard swipe of the finger-nails across the surface can prove that. The paint surface seems to have become a little bit more slippery and tough.

Things to remember:

Once the coating is done, it is advised by the centers not to use soap or other detergents on the paint as this can reduce the thickness of the coating. They recommend the use of Ph-neutral shampoo which is essentially car-shampoo that you can buy from any car-accessories stores.

Teflon coating can recover faded paints but it has its limits. It cannot completely remove scratches, the swirl marks on the surface is reduced considerably after the entire process. If you simply want to recover faded paint, just use car waxes made by 3M, Formula1, Prestone, or any other major brand. Scratches can also be taken care of by using Scratch Out, from Formula 1 which is a liquid rubbing compound.

The whole process takes just around 30 minutes to 1 hour depending on the bike.

Be sure to bargain with the dealer as they can be quite inconsiderate. The dealer initially quoted 750 Rupees for the job, which I promptly refused, a few minutes of bargaining and the price was brought down to just 550.

The dealer has also given us a guarantee of one year that the paint would not fade as long as the instructions are followed.

2012-03-26T04:40:00.000-07:00

ALLOY wheel rims are a mixture or content of Aluminum, carbon and other alloys. Earlier the Alloy rims were made of a mixture or Magnesium, but mag-alloy rims were flammable, so in UK they had banned Mag-Alloy rims for racing. Well I don’t know about Indian Rims and their content. I’ll get the information soon.
Now a days in our motorcycles we generally getting alloy wheel rims. Known for less weight, accuracy and efficiency. The charm of spoke wheel is only you can see in Royal Enfield Products. Alloy wheels are very good for tubeless tyres because of sitting position of tyre on the rim. The tyre fits perfectly and accurately on the rim in the periphery which is very much important, improper fitting may cause the bike to start wobbling at the time of riding.

When a tubeless tyre gets punctured you don’t need to remove the tyre from the rim and hence there would be no damage to the rim. I would suggest to never put tyre with tubes on alloy wheels, unless you take care while maintain the tire because otherwise you could be damaging the edges of the rim every time you remove and refit the tire. Those rims are relatively softer than other metals because as we know aluminum is very soft and light material. So on the road if you have flat tyre then the regular puncture fellow would use his screw driver or some sort of Tommy bar which would always damage the rim. Try to only make use of tyre removing machines for removing or changing the tyre.
Alloy rims have got proper seat and edge to fix the tyre rather than conventional spoke wheel rim. And on conventional wheel rims you can’t put tubeless due to spoke holes which will leak all the air.
For alloy rims there is a special tool which is available in the market. Well not in India for sure. I ordered it from USA because I do care and respect BIKES whether it belongs to me or my customer. The tools is costing hardly few $…(If any one want I can get it). It saves the rim edge for sure.

Alloy rims always need special attention:

Keep your tyre air pressure as per company recommendation to avoid damage. (Whether it is Nitrogen or Regular Air)
Use always proper tool for removing and changing the tyre.
Alloy rims on two wheeler also need dynamic balancing.
Do not use hammer to remove tyre.
Do not use “under diameter” tyre on the rim.
Try not to remove tyre from rim when it is puncture.
Try to buy branded alloy rims, rather than any local rims. The mixture of alloy is a complicated subject which in most cases the manufactures takes care of. Byt if you are planning to manufacture alloys on your own, and if the mixture is wrong or the casting is wrong then you might endanger the lives of yours and others.
The subject “Wheel Rim” is vast though the spares looks very much simple.
Do not buy mag-alloy rims.
Try avoiding pot holes.
Do not ride your bike on off road. That may damage the rim fast.
When you are buying motorcycle with alloy wheels. Always go for disc brake system. In alloys if you take drum brake system then remember the drum is itself is a rim there is no separate drum. So when the drum will get damage or if the wear tear is high then you will have to buy full alloy rim. (I know yet disc brake for rear is only in RTR,R15 & in 220)
Try not to repair wheels at home if you are unknown to any auto parts.

Tubeless Tyre Puncture Removing Kit is available in the market. Always keep it with you. You can visit my workshop, and I could teach you how to remove a tubeless tyre Puncture.
Yes, Alloy wheels can be repaired. But I suspect we have any one who can repair it in India. If it’s a total loss then don’t try to repair it, because Rims are a matter of life or death, so don’t play with it.

Tips on Maintaining Your Bike at its Best

2012-03-26T04:35:00.001-07:00

1. Tyre Air Pressure:

Ensure tyre pressures are maintained at manufacturer recommended levels. Different pressures are recommended for single seat and pillion riding, observe them to squeeze out the optimum mileage. Over-inflated tyres do result in better mileage but play havoc with the ride, handling and stability, so don’t get desperate.

2. Brakes:

Both the brakes should have the right amount of free play. To check that brakes are not binding, put the bike on the main stand and ensure that both the wheels turn freely.

3. Chain:

The chain should be well lubricated and have the right amount of slack. You can read more about Motorcycle Chain Maintenance.

4. Air filter:

Keep the air filter clean as dusty conditions in India tend to clog up the filter in no time. Change the air filter at recommended intervals and increase the cleaning frequency in particularly dusty climes. Clutch: Should be properly adjusted and have the right amount of free play. An over tightened clutch will cause it to slip unnoticeably and increase the fuel consumption while also burning it out quickly.

5. Engine:

Again regular servicing and tune-ups will keep the engine running like clockwork and reduce your petrol bills. Pay special attention to cleaning the carburettor and maintaining valve clearences. Don’t neglect the spark plug, ensure it is clean, the gap is set correctly or replace it if past its prime as it’s the most crucial link in proper combustion. Most modern bikes require the choke to be used on cold starts as they run lean to meet emission norms as well as fuel efficiency requirements.

6. Engine Oil:

Engine oil should be changed religiously. The oil thickens due to carbon deposits creating drag in the movement of engine internals. Running the bike on dirty oil will not only increase fuel consumption but also reduce the life of the engine.

Chopper Bikes

2012-03-25T23:53:00.000-07:00

The OCC fabricators and mechanics such as Paul Teutul, Jr., "Slick" Rick Petko, Nick Hansford, Christian Welter, and former employees Vincent DiMartino (who left OCC to start V-Force Customs in 2007), and Cody Connelly (a BOCES student intern who has since joined DiMartino's business), create dozens of custom motorbikes. Michael Teutul, usually referred to as "Mikey", serves as the shop's custodian and webmaster, and provides comic relief to the show. He has been seen doing metal work occasionally, as one of his early jobs was working at Orange County Ironworks. Also featured occasionally is Danny Teutul, the second oldest child, who succeeded Paul Sr. as the owner of Orange County Ironworks. Danny visits to do contracted work for the OCC facilities. The show also documents their personal and promotional activities ranging from magazine photo shoots to family holidays and custom bike shows.

Yamaha RX 100

2012-03-25T23:03:00.001-07:00

The Yamaha RX100 is a 98 cc two-stroke single-cylinder air-cooled motorcycle that was manufactured between 1985 and 1996. The only changes in its eleven year production history were the pin striping and an upgrade to a 12-volt electrical system.

History

The Yamaha RX100 was launched in late 1985. The bikes, manufactured between 1985 and 1987 were knock-down kits (CKD) and were simply assembled in India. The gearbox covering just above the gear shift lever had the words "MADE IN JAPAN "

embossed on it.

The only major change that the bike underwent was that it was upgraded from a 6V electrical system to a 12V system. Apart from that, the pin striping was changed two times. So there are three different decal types in all.

Successors

The bike's production run lasted from November 1985 to March 1996. Various modifications like expansion chambers, drum brakes and 5th gear. The model was followed by the 132 cc RXG. Then came the RX135, which was essentially a rebadged RXG. The RXG was launched with a sportier headlamp fairing.

Summary

A Yamaha RX100, modified by fitting a Yamaha RX-S seat, exhaust, side covers, grab-rail and tail light. It has also been fitted with aftermarket handlebars, an Akront rim on the rear wheel, and modern tyres.

Pictures

Modified twister bike pictures

2012-03-25T10:48:00.000-07:00

Bike burnout

2012-03-25T10:20:00.000-07:00

While riding a motorcycle is great fun, doing tricks with it is more fun. There are many various actions to learn and do, and this one is easy to learn if you follow the steps as written below.

Warning:-

Wear ISI certified helmet.
Use tight t-shirts and jeans loose shirts may invite trouble for you.
Don’t wear slippers.
Do not try in public places.
If you feel the bike going too much to either side, and you feel that you are losing control quickly engage the clutch and release the throttle in one quick smooth motion.You might want to try again later when you feel more confident
This will ruin your back tire. Doing them on a paint stripe only helps keep your tire intact but it will ruin it regardless.
Be careful to not blow your tire.

How to do:-

Turn on the motorcycle and keep it in second gear.
Pull in the front brake and the clutch all the way.
Use your right thumb and turn the throttle while remaining four fingers holding on the front brake and other hand hold clutch, get up to about 7000-8000 RPMs.
Make sure to stand solidly on your feet (if you are still learning do the standing one first)all of your feet touching the ground, to from an ‘A’ shape with your legs so that your thighs or knees hold the bike from going too much to the right or too much to the left.
Slowly start to release the clutch while keeping the front brake pulled tightly. You will feel your back tire start to spin, but you won’t go anywhere as long as you keep on the front brake. Keep accelerating, you will be making a lot of smoke and turning a lot of heads. When you are done, pull in the clutch all the way or release the throttle your thumb.

Safety cautions:-

Do not let out your front brake until you have the clutch pulled in again.
Lean forward just a tad, but not too much.
If you do a burnout on a paint stripe, it does less damage to your tire and makes more smoke.
If you’re just starting to learn how to do a burnout, you can try to do a burn out after you wash your bike if your tires are wet, when they are wet they will easily spin out and break traction this will be a great way to learn and gain confidence.

10 Tips On Bike Modifications

2012-03-25T10:06:00.000-07:00

Alloy Wheels:

When planning to change the wheels to alloys for your bike, it is safe to go for branded ones. Don’t go for one just because it’s a 2 or 3 spoke alloy. You find a lot of duplicates which are either used or re-painted in the market. This would prove to be a very dangerous move. At times of accident, your alloys might result in total breaking of wheels leading to high levels of life risk.

Headlights:

Headlight modification can result in total revamping of your bike. But, be very cautious about it. Don’t add twin dazzling lamps or very powerful halogen and xenon lamps, which act as an obstacle for travelers’ vision who commute on your opposite side.

Silencer: Wanna modify your silencers? Go ahead, but don’t be that creatures on Earth who create total disturbance with their nasty and irritating sounds. Bikers need to be responsible too!

Split Seats:

Go for split seats. It would offer an all new look for your bike you wouldn’t have even thought of, offering a sporty look. Anyone in a seat repairing and stitching shop can help you with this idea.

Fairing:

There are numerous customizing centres in most of the cities, which enable you to add side fairings. Though they cost more, worth the buck.

Who:

Always trust experts when handling your bike’s modification. Else, would create problems on the long run.

Color:

Remember that changing your bike’s colour is illegal. So don’t attempt trying this stuff. Because, the colour of your bike mentioned in the document will be different from the actual one. Real-time issue.

Mirrors:

Whatever modification your bike undergoes, don’t remove the rear view mirrors. It’s one of the very essential safety components of your bike, concerned directly with your personal safety.

Total Mods:

Is your wallet really heavy? Then, do this. There are modification shops in cities like Chennai and Pune where you can convert your existing model to the model you intend to. For instance, you own a Pulsar and wanna modify it like the Hayabusa, you can still go ahead. Trust me, it’s true. The estimations begin from 45k and goes on till a lakh and at times even more based on your requirement.

Legal:

Remember the last point. When you make your bike undergo any massive mods, see to it that you consult the concerned people in the RTO (Regional Transport Office), ask them in advance what is to be done regarding re-registration of your bike after all these modifications are done. After these are performed, make your documents of your bike legally faultless in all aspects.

Alter pulsar picture

2012-03-24T09:58:00.001-07:00

Bike Modification India

2012-03-24T09:37:00.001-07:00

Buying power of the Indians has increased manifold in the last decade or two, pushing bike manufacturers to launch new products as unprecedented pace. Bike enthusiasts, who have enough currency in their pockets, go for their fancied products, while those who have enough time and patience, but not money, try to get their bikes modified to make them look or perform like models of their choice.

Imitation of Super-bikes

As a matter of fact, most modified bikes are imitations of super-bikes. It is the psyche of every young to draw attention of the people, while riding super-bikes. However, with their price spanning several lakhs, it is not possible for every young to buy them. So they go for another option. They get a cheaper bike modified into a super-bike. Influences from entertainment industry and motor sports also play a role in fuelling the modifying tendency.

Types of Modifications

Bikes could be modified in two ways: Performance wise or Looks wise. You could go for the both too. Looks modification could give you the satisfaction of riding a super bike. However, performance modification in no way guarantees that your bike would not perform like the bike of your dreams.

Modification Kits

Today, modification kits are available for each and every part of bikes. You can get body parts altered or replaced with new moulded ones. If you are creative enough, you could think out your own design and ask companies to execute your ideas on your bike. Most body works are done using fiberglass reinforced plastic which offers one the quality of parts, perfect finish and a glazing surface. Looks-oriented modification kits include clip on handlebars, stylish graphics and stickers, mag-alloy wheels, rear view mirrors, tuned exhaust silencer, specially designed seats etc. You could also get fitted modified mudguards or petrol tanks on your bikes.

Most bike enthusiasts go for common modifications like removing the saree guard, rear view mirrors, changing the handle bar, increasing the size of the rear tyre, using alloy wheels and changing shock absorbers etc. Some go for an entire body alteration while retaining the engine. Some get the sound modified. A diffuser gives the base sound of a Harley Davidson while chambers endow the effect of dirt bikes and race bikes. An exhaust gives the effect of a powerful bike.

Who to Approach

We would advise you to approach any experienced bike modifier rather than a simple mechanic. It is a job to be done by specialists. So you better leave it to a specialist. Do proper consideration before deciding on a modifier.

Effects of Modifications

You must keep in mind that modification does not change a cheaper bike to super bike. It just fakes the physical appearance. So even if you get a bike resemble a highly superior bike, you must be aware of the limitations of the basic model. Performance modifications do increase the efficiency of the bike, to a limited extent. Body modification usually decreases mileage and performance, for the basic engine is not toned to those accoutrements.

Word of Caution

Whenever you go for getting your machine remodeled, its market value decreases. Bike manufacturers too give the warning that even minute alterations on the bike affect its performance.

Bike Modifiers in Delhi

Here is a list of bike modifiers in Delhi. However, you should keep in mind that the list is neither complete nor recommended by us. It is a random list just to help you if that is what you are searching for.

Ultimate Bike, 41, Ashoka Park, Main Rohtak Road, Bank of Baroda Building (Rampura), New Delhi-110035

Kaulson Overseas Pvt. Ltd., 7/58, South Patel Nagar, New Delhi - 110 001