Biking Adventures

Lubricating Your Bike

2013-04-03T19:54:00.000-07:00

A mountain bike is a lot of fun although it does

require some maintenance. You should always lube

your bike 15 hours or so before riding, as quick

jobs right before you take off normally doesn't

get everything lubed. Some lube jobs will last

for more rides, although if things get loud or

shifting gets sticky, it's time to lube.

Here is how to lube your bike:

1. The chain

Apply a generous amount of mountain bike lube to

your chain as you move the pedals around backwards.

It also helps to find a spot to steady your hand

such as the frame while you move the pedals around

and around. Make sure you watch out for the cranks

and chain rings as they move around.

2. Front Deraileur

On the front defaileur, lube the pivots. Use a

spot of lube everywhere you can see movement when

you move the shift lever.

3. Rear deraileur

Just like the front deraileur, lube the pivots.

4. Pedals

There are some types of clipless pedals that will

need to have the release mechanism lubed. You

should only lube this mechanism if you have this

type of pedal.

5. Everything into motion

Pedal around, shift your gears, and bounce your

bike around. If you hear anything squeak, there's

a moving part there are it should be lubed

immediately.

6. Wipe it all clean

Once you've lubed everything and wiped it all

around, simply wipe it all back off. Use a rag

to wipe away all the lube you used, including all

the lube off the chain. Wiping it away will leave

the lube in between the parts but clean it away

from everywhere it isn't needed. This will keep

your bike from collecting dirt while you ride.

Bike Framing Materials

2013-01-02T08:58:00.000-08:00

The cost of a mountain bike frame is proportionate to

its material, as well as the treatment that material

has received. Currently, there are five types of

material used in mountain bikes - high tensile steel,

chromoly steel, aluminum, titanium, and carbon

fiber. Oversized diameters, heat treating, and butting are

tubing material treatments that will increase the

cost of a frame as well.

High tensile steel

This is a very durable alloy that's found in lower

priced mountain bikes. It offers a high carbon content

which makes it less stiff than chromoly steel, so

more materials are needed to make it stiff enough for

bicycle frames, which will in turn make it that much

heavier.

Relatively inexpensive to produce, you'll find this

material in trail bikes, city bikes, and even entry

level mountain bikes. There are some bikes that come

with a chromoly seat tube, while the rest is high

tensile steel.

Chromoly steel

Short for steel alloy, chromoly is best described by

its major additives - chromium and molybdenum. This

is probably the most refined framing material, giving

over 100 years of dependable service.

Depending on the type of heat treating and butting,

you can find this material in bikes as low as 400

dollars all the way up to 1,500 and beyond. The

chromoly steel material offers very good durability

and a compliant ride characteristic.

Aluminum

For the past 15 years, aluminum has been refined in

pretty much the same way as chromoly. There have

been various alloys developed, as well as heat

treatment, oversizing, and butting. With dual

suspension bikes, aluminum is the preferred material

as it's the stiffest and most cost effective.

Aluminum is stiffer than chromoly, and therefore it

will crack before chromoly. Of course, this depends

on how you ride and how much abuse you give the frame.

The advantages of aluminum is that the frame is very

light and very stiff through oversizing or butting.

Titanium

Even thought it's somewhat exotic, the prices for

this material have come down over the last few years.

Frames made of titanium remain expensive because it

takes longer to weld the tubes to the frame.

Titanium is considered an alloy, normally mixed with

small amounts of vanadium and aluminum to give it

better weldability and ride characteristics. More

compliant than chromoly, it offers better fatigue

and corrosion properties.

The material you choose for your bike, all depends

on where you ride and what style you use. Almost

all materials will last you for years, as long as

you take care of your bike and treat the frame with

some respect.

Disc Brakes Or Rim Brakes

2012-11-27T09:09:00.000-08:00

This can be a very important
decision when you are buying
a mountain bike. There are
actually two answers to the
question of disc brakes or

rim brakes.

If you want better,
more consistent brake performance in all conditions,
disc brakes are what you should be choosing.
On the other hand, if you want the lightest

set up you can have and you are willing to

accept small variances in brake performance, or you

want the lowest price possible, rim brakes are

what you should be choosing.

Over the years, mountain bikes have gone through

many design changes. They started out with the

original cantilever brakes, then went through the U

Brake years, and are now with V Brakes. In most

conditions, the V Brakes seem to work well.

In wet or muddy conditions, rim brakes will perform

poorly. Over time, they can wear right through the

side of your rim, causing the side of the rim to

blow right off.

Disc brakes on the other hand have been around for

a long time in cars but weren't used on bikes much

until the late 1990's. There were some issues in

the earlier models, although the cable actuated or

hydraulic brakes of today seem to work quite well.

In terms of performance, disc brakes seem to work

better than rim brakes, especially in wet or muddy

areas. Disc brakes normally require less force

to apply and aren't effected by the rim or wheel

condition.

Cost is an issue, as disk brake systems tend to be

more expensive than rim brakes. Mechanical or cable

actuated brakes are a closer match, although they

will still cost more. Hydraulic brakes on the other

hand cost a lot more.

When you make that final choice, weight out the above

options then make your decision. Some riders prefer

disc brakes, while others prefer rim brakes - making it

a matter of opinion.

Different Types of Mountain Bikes

2012-11-07T07:47:00.000-08:00

With mountain biking being a very popular sport,

there are many bikes to choose from. Depending

on what type of riding you like, the style of

bikes you can choose from will vary. Below, you'll

find tips on the different types of bikes available.

1. Cross country

Almost all mountain bikes will fit into this category.

Cross country mountain bikes are light weight, making

them easy to ride over most terrains, even up and

down hills. This is the most common mountain bike

and it can be used with ease for riding on the path

or even commuting.

2. Downhill

These types of bikes are for serious bikers who

crave the ultimate adventure. Downhill bikes have

front and rear suspension, strong parts, and disc

brakes. Rarely available off the shelf, most riders

like to custom build their own.

3. Trials

Trail mountain biking involves a great degree of

skill and is classified as the precision riding of

the sport. Similiar to downhill bikes, trial riders

will often build their own bikes rather than purchase

one off a shelf. Generally very light and very

strong, these bikes require a lot of discipline.

4. Jump and slalom

Slalom and jump bikes are very strong and designed

for jumping, street racing, and slalom. They offer

a front suspension and use very strong components

dedicated to what they do. These bikes are very

popular with the sport of mountain biking.

Even if you are new to mountain biking, the sport can

be a lot of fun. There are several bikes to choose

from, all of which depend on your style. If you are

still looking for the best style for you, all you

have to do is try out several bikes and see which one

suites you the best.

Spring Tune Up

2010-02-27T19:16:00.001-08:00

If you don't ride in the winter, you've probably

spent the winter months on the couch eating chips

and watching television. Before you know it, spring

will be here and a new season of mountain biking

will begin. Even though your body may not be in

shape, these tips will ensure that your bike is.

Before you take your bike out, check the wear and

tear on your components and adjust them if its

necessary. Start off with your chain. If you

haven't replaced it in a year or more, it's time

to do so. Over time, the individual parts in the

chain will get worn out, increasing its effective

length.

As this happens, the chain is no longer able to

conform to the cog and the teeth of the chain ring,

so it wears those teeth out to fit the profile of

the chain. If you can replace the chain before it

stretches too much you'll save yourself from having

to replace high priced cogs and chain rings.

Now, check the bearing surfaces. These include your

bottom bracket, hubs, and the headset. Each of these

should turn without a problem with no play in the

system. Before checking the bottom bracket, make

sure each cranking arm is snugged tight. Next, hold

on to the crank arm (not the pedal) and wobble it

back and forth. If you hear any clicking or if the

crank arm binds, the bottom bracket needs to be

adjusted.

Do the exact same thing with your hubs. Take the

wheels off the bike, spin the hub axles, then feel

for any free play or binding. If you feel play or

binding, you need to make an adjustment. To check

the headset, start off by putting the newly adjusted

wheels back on the bike.

Now, grab the front brake and pull and push the

handle bars back and forth. There shouldn't be any

play. If you lift the front end off the ground,

the fork should turn very smoothly. If it feels rough,

it needs to be either adjusted or replaced.

While your looking, check the condition of your cables

and housing. The cables should be rust free and the

housing shouldn't be cracked or kinked. If you see any

of this you should replace the offending device, as if

you don't your shifting and braking will be sluggish.

Last, you should inspect your brake pads. Most pads

will have ridges or indicator marks that will let you

know when they need to be replaced. Brake pads that

are worn out will comprimise both safety and braking

efficiency.

Once you've got the tune ups out of the way, it's time

to go for a ride. With your mountain bike running

better than ever, all you have to do now is have fun!

Buying A Mountain Bike

2009-11-14T10:32:00.000-08:00

It can be a bit frustrating as well as
time consuming when you buy a
mountain bike. Below, you'll find

some tips and things to be aware
of before you lay down the cash
and buy a mountain bike.

Determining your price

There is really no limit as to how much money you can

spend on a new mountain bike. To help you keep your

spending under control, you should figure out what

your price range is and how much your willing to pay

for a new bike. When you buy, you shouldn't buy from

mass merchant stores such as Wal-Mart. You should

instead support your local bike shop and get a much

better bike and much better service.

Finding your style

All mountain bikes are designed with several different

riding styles and terrain types in mind. You'll need

to figure out what type of riding you will be doing

the most. Smooth riding, cross country racing,

mountain cruising, or lift accessed downhill is

something you need to figure out. Make sure that

the bike you select fits your personal style and not

that of the sale's staff.

Full suspension or hard tail

If you can afford it, a full suspension mountain

bike is always worth the purchase. A hard tail,

without rear suspension, is much lighter weight

and pedal more efficiently, although full suspensions

offer more comfort and overall better control. You'll

want to make that decision based on your price range,

riding style, and the type of terrain you'll be

riding on the most.

Finding your favorites

Comparing mountain bikes component to component is

nearly impossible, as there are far too many combinations

available. The best way to go about doing this is

finding a few components that are the most important

to you and making sure the rest or the minimums fall

within your price range. You can start with the fork

then look at the wheels and rear derailleur.

Sales and seasons

During the year, the prices of mountain bikes can

fluctuate quite a bit. Spring through summer is the

main buying season. If you can wait until the right

price pops up, normally in the fall and winter, you can

save a couple hundred dollars. Many bike shops will

also offer discounts or other accessories if you buy

from them.

Finding a good dealer

Finding a good bike dealer is more important than finding

the best price. You should always find a dealer that

cares more about selling you a great bike than selling you

a high priced one. A great dealer will have a clean repair

shop and give you the impression that you can really

trust them.

Test ride

You should test ride as many bikes as you can within

your price range and riding style. You'll find that

some bikes will feel right, while others won't. The more

bikes you can test drive, you better you'll understand

what works and what doesn't.

Doing the research

Product reviews and bike reviews are some of the best

ways to find out about a mountain bikes reliability and

overall performance. You should always look at what

other owners and reviews think about a bike before you

make that final purchase.

Kona Kula Review

2009-11-01T06:19:00.001-08:00

The Kona Kula has been around for 10 years, but experts say it continues to live up to Kona's reputation for building tough and durable mountain bikes. This hardtail mountain bike sports an aluminum frame, disc brakes and a Shimano XT rear derailleur, and reviewers say the components are pretty sweet for the price. Where the bike really earns accolades, however, is on performance. Experts say it's a great ride, with capable handling and powerful braking, which makes it a good pick for entry-level XC racers. Although most reviewers have mostly positive feedback for the Kona Kula, BikeRadar.com does say the bar and stem are pretty basic and could use an upgrade. The Kona Kula comes in a wide range of seven sizes, so you'll have a better chance of obtaining a good fit. It's designed mainly for cross-country riding, so if you frequently ride rugged terrain, an all-mountain bike like the Specialized Pitch Comp (*MSRP: $2,100) may be a better choice.

The Kona Kula is featured in a number of reviews. The best coverage comes from the U.K.'s Bicycle Buyer magazine, which pits the Kona Kula against three comparable mountain bikes in a head-to-head test. Not only is each bike rated on performance and value, but each bike also receives a lengthy review. BikeRadar.com also writes a detailed review based on tester feedback, and we find a shorter review in VeloNews' annual buyer's guide.

Trek 3900 Review

2009-11-01T06:15:00.001-08:00

Although it's not designed for rugged terrain, experts say the Trek 3900 is a great choice for beginning riders looking to ride smooth gravel or dirt trails. The Trek 3900 is a hardtail mountain bike, meaning there is no suspension in the rear, and it has 80 mm (3.15 inches) of travel in the front. The Trek 3900 gets high marks for its rigid frame and smooth shifting, but experts say you should really spend the extra $40 to upgrade to disc brakes on the Trek 3900 Disc (*MSRP: $480). Disc brakes offer more reliable braking in dirt and mud, and owner-written reviews say this upgrade is worth it. Overall, most owners are happy with the Trek 3900 and love the value. They caution, however, that you can't take this bike on rugged terrain or launch it off jumps -- it's not designed for these purposes. If you prefer a full-suspension mountain bike to a hardtail, experts say the Haro Shift R1 (*MSRP: $895) is a good choice. It's more expensive than the Trek 3900, but it can handle more rugged trails and offers a fork lockout to improve the ride on level trails.

Most budget mountain bikes don't receive much coverage in professional reviews, and the Trek 3900 is no exception. The best source of information on this bike comes from owner-written reviews on MTBR.com; most of these reviews are detailed and balanced. Buzzillions.com also compiles reviews from several different sites, but most of their reviews come from the Trek website. Although we normally don't give much weight to reviews posted on manufacturer websites, these seem relatively balanced. In addition, Bicycling magazine covers the Trek 3900 Disc, which is identical to the Trek 3900 except for the addition of disc brakes.

Clothes For Winter Riding

2009-10-24T20:20:00.000-07:00

Mountain biking in cold weather has always been a
challenge. The problem is that you'll start out
cold then warm up and break a sweat, making yourself
wet. Then, when you travel downhill, the combination
of wet skin and windchill will be quite chilling.

Below, you'll find a list of the cold weather clothing
that will make winter riding less of a bone chilling
experience.

Booties
In cold temperatures, your feet are the most vulnerable
part of your anatomy. Pressure from pedaling will
tend to cut off the circulation to your toes, which
can put you at a risk of frostbite. In cold conditions,
neoprene booties are a must have. They will zip over
your shoes and even have a pattern in the sole where
you can cut out a piece for cleats.

Gloves
There are several manufacturers that make "lobster
gloves", a hybrid glove that separates your index
finger and thumb from the rest of your hand. These
gloves are warmer than regular gloves, and the distinct
index finger will allow you to operate your shifting
and brake levers.

In case your hands get cold, you should carry a pair
of lightweight glove liners will you as well. If you
have to stop to take care of a problem, the liners will
protect your hands from the cold.

Glasses
Glasses that wraparound and provide maximum protection
from the wind are best to wear in the winter. You can
protect yourself from debris, as well as the cold.

Socks
You should wear heavy socks although not to heavy. A
sock that is overly heavy will make your shoes tight,
cut off circulation, even make your feet cold. You
should try lightweight socks, as they will keep your
feet warm without bulk. If you need an extra layer,
try silk ski socks as they are very warm and also
extra lightweight.

Underwear
Polypropylene is the best material here, as it is
lightweight and best for colder temperatures.

Wind protection
Moving air is the biggest cause for losing body
heat. By having good wind protection you'll be able
to vent perspiration while also protecting yourself
from windchill. You should choose pants and a jacket
based on durability, breathing, and price as these
types of clothing can get very experience.

Helmet and liners
Your head is very important, as you lose 50% of your
body heat through your head. A helmet is designed to
keep you cool in the summer, not warm in the winter. A
fleece liner inside your helmet will keep your head
and ears warm during winter riding.

The History Of Mountain Biking

2009-10-16T20:02:00.000-07:00

There is a lot of history and information out there
in regards to the history and origins of mountain
biking, with some being recognized and some that
depends on who has the best firm of public relations.

Some say that mountain biking began with the Buffalo
Soldiers, which was a turn of the century infantry
who customized bikes to carry gear over the rough and
tough terrain. They began in August of 1896, over
the course of 800 miles. Their mission was simple -
to test bikes for military use in the toughest of
terrain.

Others say it was the Velo Cross Club of France
that started mountain biking. The club was comprised
of 20 young bikers from Paris, who between 1951 and
1956 developed a sport that resembles present day
mountain biking.

It could have also been John Finley Scott, who was
the first mountain biker in the U.S. In 1953 he
constructed what he called a "Woodsie Bike", using
a diamond frame, balloon tires, flat handle bars,
and cantilever brakes. He was more than 20 years
ahead of his time. Even though he remained an off
road enthusiast, there were many at that time who
didn't share that same passion.

Today, we believe that the history of the mountain
bike is most apparent in Northern California. There
are a few areas that claim to be the first community
for mountain biking, although each and every history
book will tell you Marin County.

The sport of mountain biking has taken many twists
and turns over the last several hundred years. Even
though there are many that say different things about
the history and the beginning, we know one thing
for sure - one thing has led to another and the
sport of mountain biking was born.

The Bunny Hop

2009-10-16T20:00:00.001-07:00

In mountain biking and even BMX riding, the bunny hop
is a bike trick that involved the rider lifting the
bike up and over an obstacle while remaining in
motion on the bike. Experienced bikers can lift
their bikes in excess of a meter or one and a half
feet. The world record for the bunny hop stands at
4 feet.

The bunny hop is executed by approaching an obstacle
with speed, lifting the front of the bike then
leveling the pedals. If the bike has full or front
suspension, pre-load the shocks by pressing down
on the bike just before you reach the obstacle.

Once the shocks have been pre-loaded, the rider
will spring upwards, pulling up with the hands and
feet at the same time. Toe straps or clipless
pedals help with this, although if plain platform
pedals are used, it's still possible. As the biker
lifts, the hands will roll through twisting the
throttle. After the object is cleared, push down
on the bike then absorb the impact with the arms
and the legs.

It's often times a misconception that a bunny hop
without toe clips is achieved by rotating forward
on the handlebars. Lifting up on a mountain bike
while standing next to it is quite difficult to
hold on to the handle bars.

The bunny hop is very popular with mountain biking,
as experienced riders can make it look a lot easier
than it actually is. New mountain bikers should
practice a lot before they actually attempt the
hop, as doing it on a bigger obstacle can easily
be quite dangerous.

With proper practice, the bunny hop can be achieved,
even for beginners. All you have to do is give it
some time and effort, and you'll be pulling off the
bunny hop just like the pro's do it.

Types Of Mountain Biking

2009-10-11T14:20:00.001-07:00

As a sport or a hobby, mountain biking
can be split into 9 different categories.
These categories are very versed in
what they offer. They are:

1. BMX
BMX is a style where the bikes offer 20 inch wheels.
These bikes are commonly used at skate parks or
with dirt jumps. Because of their smaller wheels
and shorter wheel bases, BMX bikes are much easier
to perform tricks and stunts with.

2. Cross country
This type of mountain biking involves riding your
bike up and down hills. Although it's the least
extreme form of mountain biking, most cross country
riders are very fit and go on long rides.

3. Cyclo cross
This is a cross between road and mountain biking.
These riders have to go over obstacles, cross through
rivers, and race on and off the course.

4. Dirt jumping
Dirt jumping involves jumping the bike over large
man made dirt jumps then doing tricks while they
are in the air. These jumps are normally close
together so riders can go over six or more jumps
in one run, gaining a flow to give them more
speed for bigger jumps.

5. Downhill
Downhill mountain biking involves racing downhill
as fast as possible. This type of riding is very
intense and extreme, offering riders the chance
for ultimate thrills and excitement.

6. Freeride
Free riding involves finding the perfect line down
the mountain using all of the terrain to express
yourself. These competitions are very popular,
as riders can express themselves any way they see
fit.

7. Single speed
Not to be confused with fixed gears, this is a form
of cross country biking that's done using a bike
with only one gear and fewer components. The idea
with single speed is simplicity. The straight
chain line will provide efficient pedaling, and
the lack of components mean less mechanical
problems and a lighter bike.

8. Street and urban
This type of riding involves riding in urban areas,
ledges, and other types of man made obstacles.
Riders of street and urban biking will do tricks
as well, such as stalls and grinds.

9. Trails
Trials are considered an aspect of mountain biking,
although the bikes used look nothing like mountain
bikes. They use 20 or 26 inch wheels and sport
small, low frames. Trail riders will hop and
jump their bikes over obstacles, which requires
an extreme amount of balance and concentration.

About The Author:
Deon Melchior is the Editor and Publisher of Article Click. For more FREE articles for your ezine and websites visit ArticleClick.com. Article Click is a free content article directory. You may reprint this article, as long as the article is unedited and this author box is included with it's live hyperlinks.

2009-10-04T07:33:00.001-07:00

Check out this site for great videos on Mountain Biking.. http://www.mtbmovies.com/index.php

Technical Down Hill Mountain Biking

2009-10-04T07:23:00.001-07:00

The key to down hilling is relaxing your upper body.
The steeper and rockier the hill is, the more tightly
the rider tends to put a death grip on the handle
bars. Most riders tend to slow down as they approach
obstacles such as rocks, then apply both brakes.

If you don't apply your brakes, the rock will stop
your wheel. This isn't good, as the rock can throw
you off balance and completely kill any type of
momentum you have.

Relaxed riders won't slow down as much. The
combination of extra momentum, no front braking at
crucial moments will allow the wheel to bump over
the rock and continue onward with little effort.

If you are going slow, it's essential to release
your brakes as much as possible when you approach
an obstacle. This may entail going a bit faster,
although the result is much less painful. On
steep hills, going really slow will always make
things much more difficult.

One exception to this is a very tight turn. If a
hop is out of the question, you'll need to slow
down to allow the smallest radius of turning circle.
This kind of thing takes practice, although track
standing isa great way to improve on your balance.

Although down hilling is one of the most extreme
methods of mountain biking, it can also be one of
the most dangerous. If you're new to mountain biking
you shouldn't start out with down hilling, as it
takes a lot of practice.

With a bit of practice and knowing the right
techniques, technical down hilling is something you'll
find fun. It can provide quite a rush and a lot
of excitement for those who seek adventure.

Spring Tune Up Tips

2009-10-04T07:22:00.001-07:00

If you don't ride in the winter, you've probably
spent the winter months on the couch eating chips
and watching television. Before you know it, spring
will be here and a new season of mountain biking
will begin. Even though your body may not be in
shape, these tips will ensure that your bike is.

Before you take your bike out, check the wear and
tear on your components and adjust them if its
necessary. Start off with your chain. If you
haven't replaced it in a year or more, it's time
to do so. Over time, the individual parts in the
chain will get worn out, increasing its effective
length.

As this happens, the chain is no longer able to
conform to the cog and the teeth of the chain ring,
so it wears those teeth out to fit the profile of
the chain. If you can replace the chain before it
stretches too much you'll save yourself from having
to replace high priced cogs and chain rings.

Now, check the bearing surfaces. These include your
bottom bracket, hubs, and the headset. Each of these
should turn without a problem with no play in the
system. Before checking the bottom bracket, make
sure each cranking arm is snugged tight. Next, hold
on to the crank arm (not the pedal) and wobble it
back and forth. If you hear any clicking or if the
crank arm binds, the bottom bracket needs to be
adjusted.

Do the exact same thing with your hubs. Take the
wheels off the bike, spin the hub axles, then feel
for any free play or binding. If you feel play or
binding, you need to make an adjustment. To check
the headset, start off by putting the newly adjusted
wheels back on the bike.

Now, grab the front brake and pull and push the
handle bars back and forth. There shouldn't be any
play. If you lift the front end off the ground,
the fork should turn very smoothly. If it feels rough,
it needs to be either adjusted or replaced.

While your looking, check the condition of your cables
and housing. The cables should be rust free and the
housing shouldn't be cracked or kinked. If you see any
of this you should replace the offending device, as if
you don't your shifting and braking will be sluggish.

Last, you should inspect your brake pads. Most pads
will have ridges or indicator marks that will let you
know when they need to be replaced. Brake pads that
are worn out will comprimise both safety and braking
efficiency.

Once you've got the tune ups out of the way, it's time
to go for a ride. With your mountain bike running
better than ever, all you have to do now is have fun!

Beginner Mountain Bike Skills

2009-09-20T06:30:00.001-07:00

Mountain biking is an exciting sport that can be
enjoyed by anyone who knows how to ride a bike.
Compared to the average bike ride, it does present
some danger. Therefore, you should master these
basic skills before you hit the trails or the
dirt.

You can practice these beginning skills at a local
park, school, bike path, or simply around your
house. If you can, try to find a location with
a steep hill.

Get a feel for your pedals
Practice moving your foot away from the pedal,
first while sitting on your bike with one foot on
the ground. Next, move on to releasing and
replacing your foot while pedaling around for a
bit. Those with toe clip and clipless type foot
pedals will want to spend a bit more time
practicing.

Sit and spin for position
Simply sit on your bike and pedal around. You
should keep your arms slightly bent. You should
also adjust your seat height so your leg is 70 to
90 percent extended at the bottom of every stroke
on the pedal. Keep your body relaxed, as there
will never be a position where you should have
either your knees or your elbows locked.

Shifting gears
Get a feel for shifting gears with your bike. The
higher gears are harder to pedal and will go
faster while the lower gears are easier to pedal
and will help you ascend hills. As you get to
steeper hills, its best to shift before you get
to the hill rather than while your on it.

Coasting
You should spend a bit of time coasting while
standing on your pedals, without actually sitting
on the seat. Keep your arms bent but don't lock
your knees. Now, try experimenting with shifting
your body towards the rear end of the bike.

Pedal while standing
You should get as comfortable as you can with
pedaling while standing on your bike. Try lifting
yourself off the seat while standing on the pedals,
then crank them around. You should try this in
higher gears on flat ground then again in lower
gears while on a hill.

Dropping down a curb
Try finding a curb where you can easily get to the
upper portion of it. Practice at a moderate speed,
standing and coasting right off the curb from the
upper level to the lower level. Try this at
different speeds until it becomes second nature.

Once you practice these techniques and get the
hang of them, you'll be able to hit the trails feeling
comfortable on your mountain bike. Even though it
may take some getting used to, it'll become second
nature before you know it.

Sizing Mountain bikes

2009-09-13T07:21:00.001-07:00

Along with giving you a better selection and expert
advice, bike shop personnel can you help you get
fitted to the right size bike. You can get the bike
either too big or too small, which will cause your
enjoyment to suffer. Follow the tips below, and
you'll have the perfect fit for your mountain bike.

Standover height
When you check the fitting yourself, the first thing
you want to check is the inseam clearance, or the
standover height. You want to have plenty of room
between yourself and the top tube when you come to
a stop. There should be around four to six inches
of clearance from the top of your inseam to the top
of the top tube.

Leg and feet position
There's a nifty formula for determining the leg
position for riding a mountain bike. When riding
a mountain bike, the terrain constantly changes,
raising you off the seat constantly, sometimes just
slightly, other times completely off.

Therefore, you'll need to sit your saddle slightly
lower than you would on any other type of bike.
Be sure you take this slightly lower seat height
position into effect when you factor the size of
the frame.

Riding compartment
The next thing you'll want to check is the rider
compartment layout (the distance between the saddle
and the handlebars). Once the proper leg extension
has been determined, be sure the handlebar is one
to two inches below the height of the saddle. You
should never have the handlebars higher than the
seat, unless there is some type of upper body
problem.

Dual suspension bikes
With suspension being at both ends, you'll want
your weight more in the middle of the bike so that
your weight is distributed evenly between the front
and rear suspension units, thus allowing the front
and rear suspension to work as a unit.

This can be done quite easily by using either a
higher or shorter stem to raise the hand height,
which will in turn move the upper body up and the
weight towards the rear. The increase in rise
shouldn't be no more than two inches, then the
decrease in reach shouldn't be any more than two
inches.

Test ride
Once you have taken all of these steps into account,
go out and test drive the bike. Make sure you
wear a helmet, even if you are going to be testing
for a brief period of time. Be sure that the tires
are set to the right pressure, and the shop has
adjusted the bike for you properly.

You should have a shop employee observe your body
position and ride height while riding, to determine
is any further adjustments need to be made. Ride
the bike around for a bit to get used to its
handling and new equipment. Start off slowly, then
give the bike a bit of time to present its personality.

After a few minutes, you might notice that something
isn't working correctly or just doesn't feel right
in general. If this happens, go back to the shop
and have the problem corrected before you rule out
the bike.

The more you ride bikes, the easier it will be to
tell the difference in the ride types. Keep in mind,
it may take months and even years to appreciate the
way a bike handles. Talk to those who ride, and
ask them if they ride the bikes they sell. This
way, you'll learn more about the mountain bikes you
love so much!

Setting Your Tire Pressure

2009-09-06T07:26:00.001-07:00

Riding your mountain bike with the appropriate
amount of tire pressure can make a huge difference
in how much control you have over your bike.

Setting your tire pressure too high will make for
poor contact with the ground and also make your
bike less controllable. Setting your tire pressure
too low will make your tires unpredictable and also
make them susceptible to pinch flats.

The appropriate amount of tire pressure in a
mountain bike will vary between rider to rider and
tire setup to tire setup. The conditions of your
trail and the type of terrain your riding will also
greatly impact what tire pressure you should be using
in your tires.

The trick here is to find out exactly what mountain
bike tire pressure works for you and your setup during
normal conditions. After doing this, you can learn
to adjust your pressure for different trails and types
of terrain as needed.

You should start by finding a reliable pressure gauge
or a pump with a pressure gauge. Then, use this same
gauge or pump anytime you are making adjustments. A
gauge can be very inaccurate, so if you switch around
it you can make things much more difficult.

You should start with a higher pressure of around 40 -
50 psi. If you have a tubeless system, you should
start lower, 30 - 40 psi. The more you weigh, the
higher pressure you should start with. Try this
pressure for a while and get a feel for how the tires
take corners and loose dirt.

Drop the pressure by 5 psi in each tire and get a feel
for how this new setup rides and how it compares to your
previous setting. You should notice some improvement
in stability, and if you don't, drop the pressure by
another 5 psi.

You want to find the lowest pressure you can ride with
without sacrificing pinch flat resistance. A pinch flat
occurs when your tire rolls over an object then compresses
to the point where the tire and the tube get pinched
between the object and the rim on the wheel.

With tubeless tire systems, you can run much lower air
pressure, as you don't have to worry about getting pinch
flats. If you start to dent your rims, burp air out
along the bead, or feel the tire roll under the rim
during hard cornering, you've taken the pressure much
too low.

Once you've found a comfortable setting for your tire
pressure, learn what your tire feels like when you
squeeze it with your hands. Once you know what your
tires feel like you can always get the right air
pressure - with any pump.

2009-08-31T19:54:00.000-07:00

How To Patch a Bike Tire on Howcast

Mountain Biking Vacation

2009-08-30T07:17:00.000-07:00

Taking a mountain biking vacation is an excellent
way to unwind and explore America. There are several
companies that offer mountain biking tours that go
through scenic routes, and they often arrange any
accomodations for travelers as well. For athletic
couples, these types of vacations offer the perfect
way to relax and enjoy some exercise together.

Each and every region in the United States has some
truly awesome mountain biking trails. It's not just
the major mountain ranges that offer these trails, as
any hilly, scenic, rough trail can provide riders with
the adventure they seek. Some of the best areas to
mountain bike ride in the United States are the Pacific
Northwest, Southwest, and Southeast states such as
North Carolina.

Even though the entire American West area is great for a
mountain biking vacation, the Southwest area is rapidly
becoming a popular area for the sport as well. In the
Southwest, some of the best trails include Pinery
Canyon Road in Arizona, South Boundary Trail in New
Mexico, and Flume Trail in Nevada.

Each and every trail deserves it's reputation as a
tough ride. Each one of these trails is over 20 miles
in length, with Pinery Canyon being the longest, at
over 50 miles! Keep in mind though, just because you
go to a trail it doesn't mean you have to ride the entire
length.

The Pacific Northwest is also a great place for a
mountain biking vacation. The three best trails in
the entire region are Surveyor's Ridge in Oregon, Mount
Tamalpais in California, and the Methow Trial System in
Washington.

A mountain biking vacation is perfect for athletic people
who have the desire to explore regions at their own
pace. These trips are much less expensive than other
trips, yet they can easily be the adventure of a
lifetime.

How To Use A Chain Tool

2009-08-23T06:55:00.000-07:00

Once your mountain bike chain becomes damaged, you
should immediately replace it with a new one. It
is possible however, to repair a broken chain using
a chain tool. For this very reason, most mountain
bikers travel with a chain tool.

Your chain has three basic components - the metal
side plates, the rollers between the side plates,
and the rivets, or pins which go through the rollers
and help to hold the plates together. These pins
allow the rollers to freely turn as the chain
moves around the cogs.

If your chain happens to break, you'll need to remove
the broken link and replace it with a spare link.
To do this, simply reattach the two ends of the
broken chain and ride on a shorter chain until you
can get it replaced.

To remove a broken link of chain, place it in the
chain tool. Now, turn the tool counter clockwise
until the rivet pin of the chain tool touches
the chain rivet. Continue to turn the tool until
the pin pushes out of the roller. Be very careful,
as you want to stop turning when the pin is right
at the edge of the roller, before it moves through
the outer side plate.

Now, turn the tool in the other direction, and back
it out of the roller. Set the tool to the side,
then work the chain very gently from side to side
and extract the inner side plates and roller.

Now is the time to re-route the chain through the
bike. You may want to have a chain retaining tool
or some to help you hold the chain in the right
spot as you route and repair it.

Now that the broken link has been removed and
you've re-routed the chain, you're ready to insert
a new link or simply connect the links that were
beside the broken one. The process here is the
same - align the two ends so that the link with
the inner side plates will fit inside the link
with the pin and outer side plates. Now, use the
chain tool to push the pin inward until it's
positioned evenly between the side plates.

The easiest way to learn how to do this or feel
comfortable doing it is to have someone show you,
then actually practice with a chain and a chain
tool. You'll have no trouble at all making a
temporary repair in a mountain bike chain once
you've seen it done by a professional and practiced
it yourself a few times.

How Mountain Bike Gears Work

2009-08-03T06:30:00.001-07:00

The gears in mountain bikes just keep getting more
and more intricate. The bikes of today have as many
as 27 gear ratios. A mountain bike will use a
combination of three different sized sprockets in
front and nine in the back to produce gear ratios.

The idea behind all these gears is to allow the
rider to crank the pedals at a constant pace no
matter what kind of slope the bike is on. You can
understand this better by picturing a bike with
just a single gear. Each time you rotate the pedals
one turn, the rear wheel would rotate one turn
as well (1:1 gear ratio).

If the rear wheel is 26 inches in diameter, then
with 1:1 gearing, one full twist on the pedals
would result in the wheel covering 81.6 inches of
ground. If you are pedaling at a speed of 50 RPM,
this means that the bike can cover over 340 feet of
ground per minute. This is only 3.8 MPH, which
is the equivalence of walking speed. This is ideal
for climbing a steep hill, although bad for ground
or going downhill.

To go faster you'll need a different ratio. To
ride downhill at 25 MPH with a 50 RPM cadence at the
pedals, you'll need a 5.6:1 gear ratio. A bike
with a lot of gears will give you a large number
of increments between a 1:1 gear ratio and a 6.5:1
gear ratio so that you can always pedal at 50 RPM,
no matter how fast you are actually going.

On a normal 27 speed mountain bike, six of the gear
ratios are so close to each other that you can't
notice any difference between them.

With actual use, bike riders tend to choose a front
sprocket suitable for the slope they are riding on
and stick with it, although the front sprocket can
be difficult to shift under heavy load. It's much
easier to shit between the gears on the rear.

If you are cranking up a hill, it's best to choose
the smallest sprocket on the front then shift
between the nine gears available on the rear. The
more speeds you have on the back sprocket, the
bigger advantage you'll have.

All in all, gears are very important to mountain
bikes as they dictate your overall speed. Without
gears you wouldn't be able to build speed nor would
you be able to pound pedals. The gears will move
the pedals and help you build up speed.

There are all types of gears available in mountain
bikes, all of which will help you build up a lot
of momentum if you use them the right way.

Mountain Bike Anatomy

2009-07-30T07:06:00.000-07:00

A mountain bike is the one thing you need before you
go mountain biking. A mountain bike contains many
parts, which will be covered below:

1. Bottom bracket - This attaches the crankset to
the body of a bike.

2. Brake cable - This is the cable that connects the
brake lever to the brake mechanism.

3. Brake lever - The lever on the handlebar to
activate the brakes. The left side is the front brake
and the right side is the rear brake.

4. Chain - The circular set of links that transfer
power from the chain ring to the cogs.

5. Chain ring - The toothed rings that attach to
the crank to hold the chain.

6. Crank - The lever that extends from the bottom
bracket to the pedal, transferring the power to the
chain rings.

7. Derailleur - The mechanism for moving the chain
from one cog to another.

8. Down tube - The section of frame that extends
downward from the stem to the bottom bracket.

9. Front shock - The shock absorber on the front
fork.

10. Handlebar - The horizontal bar attached to the
stem with handgrips on the end.

11. Headset - The mechanism in front of the frame
that connects the front fork to the stem and
handlebars.

12. Hub - The center part of the wheel that the
spokes are attached to.

13. Idler pulley - The bottom pulley of the rear
derailleur that provides spring tension to keep
the chain tight.

14. Nipple - A threaded receptacle that holds
the end of the spoke to the rim.

15. Pedal - The platform to pedal on; attaches to
the crank.

16. Rear shock - The shock absorber for the rear
tire on dual suspension type bikes.

17. Rim - The metal ring that holds the spokes
on the inside and the tire to the outside.

18. Saddle - The seat.

19. Seat post - Offers support for the seat.

20. Skewer - The metal rod that goes through the
hub, attaching the wheel to the dropouts of the
frame.

21. Spindle - The free rotating axle that the
crank arms attach to; also a part of the bottom
bracket.

22. Spokes - The thick wires that join the hub to
the rim.

23. Stem - A piece that attaches the handlebar
to the steering tube.

24. Wheel hub - The center of the wheel that the
spokes are attached to.

Cross Country Mountain Biking

2009-07-23T17:49:00.002-07:00

Cross country mountain biking is cross country at
its finest. Where free riders and downhill bikers
use four wheel bikes and ski lifts to get them to
their destination, cross country bikers get to
the top of the mountain by the ride. Though free
riding is very popular, the life vein of the sport
has always been cross country biking.

Just as cross country riders are a different breed,
the bikes they ride are as well. The cross country
bike is completely different in many ways from other
types of mountain riding bikes. The premise for
cross country riders is speed. Everything about
their bikes revolve with the idea of making the
bikes faster and faster.

Bikes used in cross country mountain biking can
be fully rigid frame, hardtails, or even full
suspension frames. Through the years, the cross
over to full suspension has become very popular.

The weight difference between free ride bikes and
cross country bikes are considerable. You'll be
extremely hard pressed to find a bike that weighs
more than 24 pounds, and even that weight can be
heavy. Free ride bkes weigh close to 40 pounds,
which makes the difference in weight pretty close.

If you've never tried cross country mountain biking,
you'll probably find it to be a break from the
ordinary. Even though this type of biking involves
trails, it's normally the type of terrain that
beginners wouldn't want to ride. Involving hills
and rough terrain, cross country biking offers
quite the rush.

For mountain bikers everywhere, cross country is
the way to go. It offers you a new assortment of
bikes, new areas to bike, and a new twist to
mountain biking as you know it. If you've been
looking for a mountain biking rush, cross country
mountain biking is what you need to be experiencing.