Plants with good survival after two weeks under floodwaters are native trees, shrubs, perennials and hardy bulbs. Other plants that show good recovery include crape myrtles (Lagerstroemia Spp.), Chinese Holly (Ilex rotunda sp. including Casissa Holly and Burford Holly).

Plants typically that won’t survive being underwater or show marginal survival include Japanese Holly (Ilex crenata Spp.), Japanese Boxwood ( Buxus microphylla ssp. japonica), Indian Hawthorn (Rhaphiolepis Spp.), Nandina (Nandina Spp.), hybrid junipers (Juniperus Spp.), and azaleas (Rhododendron Spp.). These plants typically don’t like “wet feet” and won’t tolerate submerged and waterlogged soil for extended periods.

The Clean Up

Begin clean up by addressing the safety of the site. Beware of down power lines, displaced animals and reptiles. After assessing if the site is safe to enter begin by evaluating the site.

1. Is it dry enough to enter and not cause further rutting or damage?
2. If still saturated, wait for it to dry out.
3. Remove trash, debris and any uprooted plants.
4. Separate trash and yard waste and place in the appropriate designated spot for pick up. Check with your local trash pick up for details

Most deciduous landscape plants defoliate immediately after a flood. Hardy evergreen plants like Chinese Hollies, may hold on to their leaves. Try washing the silt off evergreen plants to be beneficial to survival and re-growth. A solution of one tablespoon of dishwashing liquid per gallon of water in a sprayer works well in most cases.

1. First wet the plants with plain water and then spray the detergent solution on the foliage.
2. Wait about a minute and rinse.
3. Work in small areas so as not to leave the detergent solution on too long.
4. In the case where the silt is extra thick and stubborn, a teaspoon of an additional wetting or rinsing agent such as those used in dishwashers, has proven beneficial in breaking up the silt.
5. Pressure washing should not be used on plants as it can result in further damage to the leaf and stem areas.

Refrain from using a high nitrogen fertilizer on trees and shrubs at this time. Take a soil sample if possible to determine is fertilizer is needed. Flooded trees and shrubs have undergone a shock and may be experiencing a forced dormancy.

Adding a new mulch layer to your landscape will do wonders for its aesthetic quality. Be sure it has been properly aged. Do not use fresh hardwood mulch, as it has been know to tie up soil nitrogen as it ages and breaks down. Also be sure that your mulch does not contain any trash or contaminated material.

Turf and Lawn Areas

Bermuda grass and St. Augustine have the most resilience to flooding. Bermuda grass under four weeks of floodwater has responded with re-growth when a general maintenance and management regime has resumed after a drying out period. Remove accumulations of sediment land organic debris and mow. Remove only about a 1/3 of the height at this time. Applying about one-half pound of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft will encourage turf recovery and then follow normal maintenance practices.

The Sprinkler System

Inspect and flush your irrigation system. If your irrigation controller was flooded, replace it. Use a certified professional to check the Backflow prevention system prior to reintroducing potable water (i.e. water that is part of your main drinking water system whether well or municipal). Shut off the water supply to the irrigation system and open up the drain valve to drain the water from the underground pipes. Rotors: remove them, shake out and rinse thoroughly. Check for damage to springs, replace damaged rotors.  Some rotors have a built in check valve that prevents the water from draining out. If you have any gear-drive rotors mounted above ground be sure to check to make sure the water has drained out of them, remove and thoroughly clean them. Unscrew the inside of the head from the casing and rinse out both pieces.

Flush the pipe system before you replace the heads. Open the valves one at a time to the full open position and turn on the system on manually. Let the water run for at least 5 minutes at each zone. After you are done flushing all the zones, re-install the heads and run your system for about 10 minutes. Replace filters, nozzles, heads as needed.  Check spray patterns. When you shut the water off are the heads sticking up instead of retracting back down? Sometimes, the heads can be easily cleaned by stepping down on the riser while the head is running. Let it pop back up, then step on it again. Do this a few times, then turn off the system and see if the head is still sticking. Finally turn off the system and make sure all the heads went down. If heads are still sticking, replace those not working correctly.

Drip irrigation systems may be plugged by a variety of causes including particulate matter, chemical precipitates, organic growths, and insects in the system or a combination thereof. Flush the lines, cleaning the system by opening the end of the line and flushing with fresh water. Replace emitters that remain clogged or that are damaged.

Salvaging a flooded landscape with patience and let your plants return naturally.

Now is a good time to think about aerating your lawn. It is coming up on the height of the growing season for grass, and aerating soon will allow the grass the time to fill in the open areas created by the removal of the plugs.

Lawn aeration is the process of removing small plugs of soil from the lawn. This reduces compaction, allowing the soil some space to spread out. It also puts air and water at the roots. This enhances the oxygen levels in the soil and stimulates root growth, given both the space to grow into and the nutrients required. A side benefit is that aeration also enhances the activity of thatch-decomposing organisms. Thatch buildup can be a real problem as it creates both a physical barrier to growth and also blocks out light and air to roots.

It is important to properly prepare for an aeration. A few simple steps include flagging any hard to see sprinkler heads or other plumbing components, and watering thoroughly a few days before the service is performed, the extra water helps the process along.

Right after aeration is a great time to apply a fertilizer as well, as it has the best opportunity to get down to the root system of grass right after the Aeration.

Having established trees that cast shade over a large area of you yard is almost sure to create issues for the most                                 common breeds of warm season grass. If your turf dies out in a heavily shaded area, take that as a hint, instead of re-seeding or re-sodding in shady areas. In addition to being an expensive and ultimately futile move, it can have long term negative effects to the roots of the trees that create the shade.

What should you do instead?

The first alternative is to find a good native ground cover that can replace the grass in the shady areas , but still maintain a walk-able green yard. There are several options that are not only shade tolerant but drought tolerant as well.

The second alternative is to turn the area under the tree into a bed. This would allow you to use the area for flowers or decorative mulch. Mulching would be highly recommended to protect the root system and help retain moisture for the thirsty tree.

achieved as well. Spring cleanups have benefits to the health and future growth of your lawn and the plants in all areas of your landscaping.

Removing the trash and fallen limbs not only makes the area look better, but lets the sun reach the growth underneath evenly which helps avoid bare spots later. Removing the dog and other animal feces now, while it stands out, can stop an unpleasant surprise later. Yes, homes without outdoor animals shouldn’t have to be worried about that, but there is always someone whose dog “got out.”

Pruning flowering perennials and ornamental grasses allows new growth to shoot up.  In crowded beds, digging up and spreading around perennials evens out the overgrown and bare patches. Pruning shrubs and bushes helps the sun reach the core of the plant, which allows it to have a healthy, full appearance. Raking up Fallen leaves and other plant material can stop the living plants and grass from being smothered and also will cut down on the growth of mold and mildew that can exacerbate allergies.

Also, you should consider Fertilizing and replenishing Mulch at the same time. Fertilizing helps jump start the growth of your lawn and plants. Mulch gradually diminishes and becomes part of the soil of your beds, so more needs to be added occasionally to maintain the level of coverage desired.

Leucophyllums

Leucophyllum frutescens, Texas sage, Barometer bush, Purple sage, Sliverleaf.  What ever you call it, this is one of our favorite Xeriscape plants. A star in our lineup of Texas Tough Plants.   As a native to the Southwest a solid performer you can count on for minimal care and I think, they perform best with little to no attention.   Definitely a plant for full sun, they tolerate our heavy clay soils, but, it won’t tolerate over watering.  Hard freezes, ice doesn’t seem to affect most varieties, best of all they love it hot!

Use it for screening, not hiding, the plant does not have dense foliage, as a focal point, foreground or background plants. A wildlife friendly plant, and its a nectar source for some of our native butterfly and moth species.  The stunning purple flowers create an outstanding show of color and make this plant worth the investment in garden space.

Once established, the plant survives and doesn’t need supplemental irrigation, under most conditions.  What’s not to like about this plant, no thorns, almost no litter, low maintenance, an attractive plant for your landscape.

Color is gray and leaves are covered with tiny silvery colored hairs, the bright pink-lavender, flowers.  Characteristically it’s a compact size shrub, from 2-5 ft. tall, but min are about 7’ and we’ve seen as tall as 8 ft. in height, about 4-6 ft. wide. The leaves area silvery gray to a greenish, and soft to touch, flowers show up almost unexpectedly, usually after a rainstorm from spring into fall

Pruning:   Prune plants to keep compact. Recommended planting for most shrubs and trees is during the dormant period of fall and winter.  IF planting, don’t forget the first year needs regular deep watering for positive root establishment. Once the plant is established, no fertilization or watering. Cultivated cenizos tend to become leggier with fewer blooms than in nature; tip prune to increase density.

Maintenance:  Leaving with a more natural look, prune-to-shape or to shear?   Doesn’t really seem to matter how they’re pruned, it doesn’t affect the flower production.  The continues to periodically yield an incredible show of purple flowers, no matter what pruning is done. But, they will grow thin and tall over time, have a wild look and not as pretty when they don’t bloom.  Pruning late in the spring will remove the bud wood that is necessary for blooms.

Shearing: The plant can be sheared regularly, and will perform as a hedge. The shearing will reduce the number of blossoms, and can make the shrubs very thin internally.

I prefer a more natural look for the plant, but, selective pruning is time consuming and after working with this plant, it’s a matter of personal preference.   GO NATIVE, YEAH BABY!  But,  we often find plants overgrown for the area they’re planted in and in need of a good, hard prune. In my opinion, at some point the plant is just going to be leggy and thin.  I prefer to keep it pruned to a compact size, and in our experience is it a better plant for it.  With hard pruning the bare stems are ugly, but, then the new growth appears and all if forgiven.

Super Container Planting
Containers have the same principals as landscape; the right plant in the right place.  Is it sized for the plant to contentedly hold the plants you want to grow when they are full grown. Canna in an 8” pot is not cool, and won’t work, too top heavy! But we like to use Canna in pots, we control it’s invasive nature and they are spectacular show offs.   Containers will use up lots material; typically plant large containers with about ½ to 2/3 drainage material and 1/3 soil.  For small containers we fill to the top with soil leaving about 1.5” for watering from the top, and don’t forget the landscape fabric over the drain hole in the bottom, this will prevent spillage of soil and helps to prevent staining of the surface.

The ability to maintain levels of even moisture throughout the pot is important  to the plants health.  We use our own custom blend of soils for the type of plants we use.  We use a dry type of mix for succulents and a rich moisture holding mix of composts and mulches for flowering plants.  Its important to fertilize potted plants.

Where will the containers go?  Pots on each side of an entry or a formal front porch may need to match color schemes of the building. Our old building is easy to match, the container plants do liven up the entry though!  We like hardy plants in our beautiful containers and we start with a good design.  For extravagant containers an evergreen with colorful flowing vinery and spots of annual color.  Big-faced pansies mixed in cooler weather, and tiny violas with tough as nails Ligustrum ivy variegated make for an each change out to spring of new hotter weather annuals.    Ginger when it’s hot, Bougainvillea, Castor Iron plant, Ferns, Leopard plants, Helliborus, ok, we’re stopping here.

Planter shapes, can determine the how, why and what to use for plants. Pale colors in the center back, and bright colors on the rims highlight the color and form of the plants in the front.  Pale colors work to bringing darker colors placed in front of them to life.  Drive by large bed and notice the colors at 50 MPH it’s the light in the back and the dark in the front that stand out.

Not everything has to be evergreen, we like to use small trees in planters: Birch for a cooler, partly shaded

location,dwarf Crape Myrtles perform beautifully in full sun with lots of air movement, Dogwoods, and Sumacs, under shade structures, Wax Myrltes and Yaupon Hollies, in full sun, with plenty of irrigation, we like the bark even in winter adds interest.  It’s Texas with hot sun, some locations can be like and oven and bake the roots.  We’ve tested soils well over 150+/- degress.  That’s a place for the Agave!  Agaves, Grasses and Yuccas love the full sun, and typically won’t need supplemental irrigation.  Great for those hard to reach places or non-irrigated locations.

Pots in high pedestrian areas should sit well back from the street, not impede traffic or the windows of a business.   Forsythia is common in in the spring, invasive and a highly visible plant, perfect for a container arrangement.  A centerpiece provides the scale and a visual, but, with nothing but a barbed wire fence between the Canadian and Texas unless protected from the wind, it should be one tough centerpiece or it quickly becomes a ½ center piece.  A pot of Daffodils, Iris, or Tulips in the center can be switched out for fresh when the flowers fade; annuals like Dusty Miller, Pansy, and and Violas will grow in the late winter until about mid-March.  Pair with a  small boxwood or Juniper for height.

Small pots for tabletops and étagères on the patio should be well shaded to protect from the sun, watered daily or use succulents.  To appreciate the look of small pots place at or close to eye level.  So, we plant small pots with plants that are easy to grow, without much concern for watering or care, sun lovers, a word of caution, small pots in the Texas sun is sure death even to sun loving plants, part sun, part shade is advised.  Aloe, Sedum, Hens and Chicks and other succulents fit the bill, when we have flowers left over and can’t fit one more into the bed, we pop into pots.  They look nice up close.  Small pots, we’ll use anything for planting; boxes, old cans, coffee cups, a great place for containers without drainage (planter gifts from a florist), use with succulents and be sure to empty after a rain.

In terms of container shape, doesn’t matter whether it’s a modern corten metal planter, or a classic cast iron urn; the pottery is as much a part of the planting as the plants themselves.

BKL shop is located in an industrial area, plenty of men who work physically demanding jobs in this area, will wave to us while on their drive to or from work just to tell us the plants look great!

Cleanup: clean last years debris, remove dead plants, broken pots, leaves, damaged branches, low hanging branches.

Fertilize: blooming plants, perennials, shrubs, turf, trees, if you don’t feed at any other time now is the time.  Plants work hard putting on new growth, help them put down deep, strong roots to survive the coming season of dry, hot weather.  Send those roots deep.

Pruning: with Google there is loads of information out on the WWW of what and when to prune,  woody plants if it blooms on last year’s wood don’t prune until after this year’s show (Azalea, Hydrangea common in our area) Perennials, we like to cut down, after new growth, for a couple of reasons; now, we know it’s a keeper, not a puller and the dead foliage offers some protection from freezing and ice.  We’ve been caught a few times too, getting the jump on early pruning, maybe, this season,  we won’t remove until we know we’ve done it in.

Mulch:  Mulch, mulch, mulch, add mulch!  Mulch adds nutrients, evens soil temperatures, holds moisture, reduces compaction, suppresses weed seeds, there is so many things mulch is good for, just do it!

Soil amendments: improve the turf, and beds with top dressing and soil amendments.

There are chores, lots of chores, if spring cleaning indoors is your thing, contact us for the outdoors.  We’ll make short work of your outdoor chores.

Valentine’s Day Roses

Maybe he didn’t get your roses, or maybe, he didn’t remember to get you anything for Valentine’s day!  Let him know; It’s ok………really!  Let him  make it up to you………….in the garden or hire us for cleanup we’ll make him pay!  Grab the by-pass pruners, loppers, rakes and bags. Take out some aggression on roses, Crape Myrtles, and who doesn’t love going crazy with plants.   Remember the scene in Mommy Dearest?  Oh yeah, work it out baby! Honest, don’t be too fussy about what to trim, or what not to trim,  just jump right in, whats the worst that will happen?  Its wrong? So what, move on.  Gardening is one big experiment anyway.  Think of it as a science project or a mad scientist project.  Go crazy, do it in your PJ’s, we all do.  I lose track of time until the hunger pangs start.   Most rose canes prefer a 45 degree angle cut, however, there are few woody plants that won’t benefit from deep cutting in late winter and as a general rule it’s around Valentine’s day or  VD day.  Ha! VD Day?  Anyway back to pruning…………..cut roses down with a vengeance, to 1-2’ tall.  Cut out dead, dying, what you don’t like.  Go for it!

All roses need some type of pruning to remove; diseased, dead canes and invigorate growth in older plants. Rose that haven’t been pruned for years  decline, and flowers become smaller.  Lose it if you don’t use it.

Winter is for heavy pruning: fitting for Hybrid Teas, Floribundas, and Grandifloras (Knockouts),and  is usually done around VD or early March.

Make cuts at a 45 degree angle above a strong outer bud. Aim the cut upward from the inner side of the bush to push growth outward and promote healthy shoots and quality flowers. The average pruning height is between 18″ to 24″.

Other types of roses require less severe pruning. With miniature roses, for example, easy peasy just cut out the dead and diseased, and remove the hips. Cut diseased canes back to healthy wood at least one inch below the damaged area. This general guide works for all types of roses.

Old fashioned rambling roses and spring-blooming climbers produce best on one-year-old wood, and don’t prune until after they flower.  HANDS OFF TILL LATER DUDE!

Ever-blooming roses, which bloom continuously throughout the growing season, prune in autumn before the cold weather sets in. As a general rule of thumb, any time; cut out dead and diseased canes, fall shorten side shoots three to six inches after flowering. If the plant is strong, keep five to eight main canes.

Oh, wow, I don’t like rose snobs………..So what, if the garden center girl doesn’t know what a Hybrid Rose is?  The rose to end all roses for the past 15 years is the Knock Out® it needs little care, no chemicals, cold tolerant, and most importantly is prolific at producing flowers.

What’s not to like about the Knock Out® it  sells, works hard, needs little care.  If a Hybrid, is essential to your happiness, get out the J&P catalog and order on line.  Chances are it will arrive in better shape than the plants a garden center would have to hold over because no one wants to spray harsh chemicals, prune constantly, correctly and take up space.    No wonder we only know the Knock Out®.  Knock Out®s  are practically perfect, cold tolerant, low maintenance, low water and no chemicals needed.  Turns out the Knock Out®  does the job, even if they are over-planted by landscape architects, designers and homeowners.  (I’ve been guilty, however no Knock Out® in over 2 years in our landscapes) Too much of a good thing, Knock Out®  are now suffering from diseases and are paying the price.

We insist our roses perform or it’s down the rose petal path.  IMO (in my opinion) roses don’t have to be high maintenance,

especially if the right plant, is in the right place!

If there not enough sun, STOP! don’t expect the rose to accomplish the job to put out buds and blooms, it needs an easy 4 to 5 hours of full sun in season.  Roses like a good fertilizer too, along with it’s sunshine and air, roses want air.

But even these rules won’t help when the dreaded Rose Rosette attacks.  IMO the best thing to do is remove the rose.  We’ve heard the rumors; trim back, spray, but, IMO allowing to remain in the landscape only allows the disease to spread to other plants.  But, if you do cut back;  use protection, dipping tools in bleach solutions before moving on to the next plant……….mmmm why does this sound like a story repeated?  Me, I say rip the plant right out of the ground, put it in a bag and bury it.  Like any cheating B*****  sorry, off track a little.

Keep harsh chemicals out of the garden shed and on the big box store shelves where they belong.  Fungicides are not what the environment we share, you, your family, your pets, or pollinators should be exposed to.    EVER!

GIVE IT SOME AIR!  Good air flow is important to most plants, they don’t want to bake against the building, or blocked by a hedge row of dense hollys or crowded around each other.  It doesn’t like it’s little leaves to be wet for extended periods of time (night, overnight, all day) the leaves should be dry after a short time when the sun shines the rays down on the leaves.