parrots world

WATCH DOG 2 ATM HACKING PART 1

2020-09-23T08:42:00.001-07:00

TOP 10 Best ''PC'' Games of All Time !!!

2020-09-08T00:37:00.001-07:00

BIRD'S Eye Disorders

2017-12-05T01:16:00.002-08:00

AvianEye Disorders

Birds can suffer from many different eye disorders. They can be due to an eye injury, or possibly an infection to the area. Occasionally, eye disorders are symptoms of another underlying medical problem. Therefore, if your bird has an eye problem, it should be considered serious and you should consult a veterinarian to rule out any major internal disease.

Symptom and Types

Conjunctivitis, a common eye disorder, is usually caused by bacteria and can be identified as red and swollen eyelids, and may lead to photosensitivity (avoidance of light) in the bird. Conjunctivitis is also a symptom of many other medical problems, including respiratory infections.

Uveitis causes an inflammation of the inner parts of the eye. However, it is commonly associated with symptoms of other internal diseases in the bird. This particular disorder needs to be treated quickly to avoid cataracts from forming.

Cataracts develop in the bird’s eye when there is a deficiency in vitamin E, an infection with encephalomyelitis, or even from continuous exposure to some artificial lights.

Marek’s disease is a particular type of eye disorder that is caused by a viral infection. This medical condition can lead to irregularly shaped pupils, iris problems blindness, and can progress into cancer. Vaccination can prevent this eye disorder from occurring. However, a bird that is already infected with the virus, cannot be cured.

Avian Pox is another eye disorder which is found in birds, and is due to a viral infection. Though it is a generalized disease, the eye symptoms include swelling of the eyelids with blister-like formations, and partial or total loss of vision. However, the eyeball is not affected by the infection and the vision usually returns after the infection is treated.

Causes

Many eye disorders are caused by bacterial infections (i.e., salmonella). This particular bacteria causes both conjunctivitis and ophthalmitis -- inflammation with pus in the eyeball and conjunctiva -- and possible blindness. In addition, salmonella is contagious and often spread from parent to your bird, or genetically through the egg yolk.

Fungal infections of the eye can also lead to bird eye disorders, usually because of moldy feed. One common fungi, Aspergillus, infects the bird’s respiratory system, but can also affect brain and eyes. The infected eye will show yellow plaques under the eyelid. The eye will also have inflammation, and if left untreated, this infection can result in severe eye damage.

Vitamin deficiency is another cause of eye disorders in birds. For instance, a deficiency in vitamin E in the parent can lead to the birth of a blind chick

Easy Parrot Training

2015-07-09T08:05:00.000-07:00

Easy Parrot Training

Every parrot has the capacity to be a great, lovable companion. Unfortunately, parrot training doesn't always come easy.

If you are having trouble with your parrot and you're looking for answers, then you've come to the right place.

First, it's important to realize that a difficult parrot is a relatively normal parrot. Your parrot isn't particularly "evil" -- he or she is just not trained yet.

Basic Commands

Here are the basic commands that every parrot should know...

STEP-UP

This is the most important behavior that your parrot needs to know. The step-up command is when your bird steps up onto your finger (or wrist, perch, etc.) When you say "Step Up", your parrot should willingly offer up his or her foot while you offer your hand.

Gently offer your finger or wrist to your parrot in the area where your parrot's belly reaches the top of his or her legs and say "Step up". Most parrots will raise their foot naturally and step onto you. Make sure you reward correct behavior.

STEP-DOWN

This command is also very important. When you are putting your parrot back into his or her cage or on a perch, they should go without a fight.

CONTACT CALL

A good way to keep your parrot from screaming is to start using a contact call. You are your parrot's flock, so he or she will, understandably, want to keep track of you. A contact call is a special whistle, word, or phrase that you use when your bird wants you to respond. It's almost like "Marco, Polo", really. It's simply meant to let your parrot know you are nearby when you are not in the same room.

Teach your parrot the contact call and use it consistently. Respond whenever your parrot makes the contact call. However, make sure you don't respond when your parrot screams or you will reinforce that behavior.

Having Trouble?

If your parrot has difficulty with any of the basic commands, don't worry, I have a solution for you...

Stop Biting

Perform Tricks &

Tame ANY SIZE bird you could possibly own

Chet Womach, who owns the site, also has an advanced course that you can read about at his site, and I must say, I have bought, and own all the parrot training products out there. And Chet's training course is heads and shoulders above all the other training courses or videos you will EVER find.

I hope you'll like his course as much as I did.

Rose-ringed parakeets of Amsterdam

2015-07-09T07:55:00.001-07:00

Rose-ringed parakeets of Amsterdam

Walking along one of the many canals or in one of the easy going parks you cannot miss the bright green coloured Rose-ringed parakeet that inhabits the Dutch capital city. However, for many it is mysterious how these tropical birds seem to thrive here so easily. The combination of a low breeding success with the availability of good nest holes and food seems to allow this exotic species to live peacefully next to its native neighbours.

It is well known that tropical parakeet species are popular as pets. Interestingly, an increasing number of Rose-ringed Parakeets (Psittacula krameri) have adapted to live in urban areas far away from their tropical home grounds and established feral populations in a number of European cities.

A growing group of rose-ringed Parakeets – often confused with parrots – have been living in Amsterdam since 1976. The very first birds were released pets that managed to survive the cold dutch winter by living in old trees in the well known Vondelpark. In the meantime, the exotic species has expanded to areas far outside the city centre. With their bright green feathers the exotic birds distinguished themselves from the dutch native species.

The Vondelpark is the main breeding place of these social birds. Bird countings in 2004 and 2006 revealed that more than 2000 Rose-ringed Parakeets were living in Amsterdam. Biologist Roelant Jonker who was the organiser of the countings postulated that 99 % of the birds was born in the wild

Apparently, for the birds it is not even a problem to find food and warmth during the cold dutch winters, with the continuous feeding by people always having played an important role. Nevertheless, their breeding success is much lower in West-Europe compared to India where these beautiful birds are native

Although the increase in numbers is less strong than was feared for, the careful monitoring of exotic species is important. Research has shown that about 1 in 10 exotic species manifests itself as a plague (dutch link). Although there is not much hard proof, it has been shown that in areas where many Ringnecked Parakeets are living, lower numbers of birds species that also nest in holes are observed.

The possible competition for nestholes, resulted in a front-page article in Trouw, a major dutch newspaper, stating ‘Indian Ringnecked Parakeet expels our native woodpeckers’. Furthermore, recently members of the Dutch Parliament stated that this tropical bird species should be repelled because of their nest hole competition.

Overall, in the Netherlands as well as in Belgium, it seems however that the ecological impact of the green exotic bird is low. The birds have good possibilities to further expand their living area beyond the parks of the dutch ‘Randstad’, thereby only to a small amount influencing the populations of native birds. Furthermore, most people living in Amsterdam as well as the many tourists seem to like the brightly coloured birds. SOVON, the society for dutch bird research, even announced 2004 as the year of the Ringnecked Parakeet.

Walking through the snow covered Vondelpark I see a small group of the brightly feathered birds high up on the leafless branches of an old tree. Although their high-pitched twittering is noisy, their beautiful green feathers contrast enormously with the dreary tints of winter grey. Furthermore, their intense social interactions and assertive behaviour make them interesting to observe. If indeed the following years the birds will continue to be able to live jointly with the native birds, for me and many others the birds are a colourful addition to Amsterdam life.

thank mudfooted.com

BREEDING COCKATIELS

2015-07-01T07:58:00.000-07:00

BREEDING COCKATIELS

One advantage to breeding cockatiels is that they aren't extremely hard to pair up and get results. But, if you are breeding for real quality (large, well shaped, well marked, good natured) birds, it's a bit more of a challenge. Anyone can just place a nestbox on a cage, place two cockatiels of the opposite sex in it, and let nature take it's course. But, responsible breeding takes a lot more thought and time than that.

In preparing to breed your cockatiels, you have to consider the health of the breeders, their colors and appearance (and what colors you want to end up with) as well as their temperaments. If you want to breed certain mutations, then you will need to familiarize yourself with some basic genetics concepts and how they affect mutations. You also must prepare a cage which will allow the necessary exercise and space during the breeding, brooding, fledging, and weaning stages. In addition to that, you must provide a nestbox which is suitable for the breeding pair and up to around 6 or so babies as they grow.

Sexing

Be sure you start with a true pair. It is possible for females to lay infertile eggs without a male present. It's hard to sex some cockatiels due to their mutations. The lutino whiteface (a.k.a. albino) and the heavy pied mutations are nearly impossible to visually sex due to the lack of any darker color in their tail feathers and their wings. Generally, if the bird is extremely vocal, it's a male, but some females also have this ability.

A bit more accurate (but not always) is to check the tail feathers for barring and the underside of the wings for dots. Most males lose the barring on their tails and the dots under their wings during their first major molt at between 6 and 9 months of age. The females in all of the mutations which have dark tail/wing feathers will retain their tail barring and wing dots.

The female will also normally retain some color in the cheek patches. The females cheek patches are generally (not always) lighter than those of their male counterparts except in the whiteface mutations where the male loses his cheek patches totally to the whiteface. In the Whiteface mutations, females normally have soft brown, tan or grey cheek patches (depending on the body color) which are barely visible at times, while the males have all white faces with no other color to their cheeks.

I would not recommend that you check the pelvic bones as a means of sexing a bird. The first and most important reason I would advise against this is that if you are not experienced at it, you can actually harm the bird. Also, according to veterinarians I've spoken to, and from my personal experience, this isn't accurate unless the bird has already laid an egg. Some young males have wide pelvic bones which will gradually grow closer. Some young females have narrow pelvic bones which will spread during the process of egg laying.

Breeding Age

DON'T breed your birds until they are mature. Some birds don't fully mature until 18-24 months, but generally a female is mature at 18 months and males at 12-15 months. Their bodies can produce eggs as young as 6 months of age but not without very serious consequences. Young birds generally don't make good parents and young hens run a much greater risk of dying from egg binding.

Getting Acquainted

You may want to place the birds together in the breeding cage for a getting acquainted period. After you notice some bonding behavior, then you can add the nestbox. This introduction period isn't necessary but, it generally improves your chances of having fertile eggs if the birds are bonded before the nestbox is added.

Mating Behavior

Males cockatiels have a very unique style of courting. Comparing them to other birds I've bred, I think the cockatiels are the most romantic and the most entertaining.

When first introduced, a pair may pay no attention at all to each other. But, as time passes (sometimes minutes, sometimes months) they generally become a bonded pair. Some signs of bonding are spending time next to each other on the perch, eating together, mutual preening, and the actual act of mating.

A female tiel wanting to mate will sit low on the perch with her tail in the air while emitting a sort of tiny peeping sound. This and hanging upside down from the perch with her tail feathers spread is the only courting behavior I've observed in hens other than the hens rubbing their vents on items like the perch or a favorite toy. The female may also try to feed her intended mate. I have one female that actually bullies her mate into letting her feed him.

When a male cockatiel is interested in a female, he generally displays a combination of the following courting behaviors:

Beak Pounding : Tapping the beak on the cage wires, the nestbox or anything else within reach to get the female's attention. The sound is somewhat like a rowdy woodpecker.

The Strut: Male cockatiels tend to do a strange looking strut and dance while whistling, chattering, screaming and beak pounding. They'll hop, bow their heads quickly (possibly tapping the beak on the floor), whistle and then do it all again. It's rather comical to watch but can get disturbing to those who aren't used to the sound.

The Wing Thing: This describes when a male cockatiel holds the top portion of his wings away from his body to try to get the females attention. If you look at them from the back while they are doing this display, you will notice the wings take on the shape of a heart. This is generally used in conjunction with several of the other types of courting behavior.

Whistling: There are several cockatiel mating calls and each male also brings with this, their own compositions. One of the male mating calls can be heard by clicking HERE.

Checking out the nestbox: Before a female tiel will generally enter a nestbox, it has to be checked and approved as "safe" by the male. Once he jumps in and out of the box several times and whistles to her from inside (and of course bangs his beak), mating will generally occur soon.

The mating occurs when the female crouches low on the perch and raises her tail feathers. The male then mounts the female's back from the side, stands on her back, tucks his tail under hers and proceeds to rub his vent against hers. He will swish his tail side to side until the act is complete. During this time, the male will most likely be very gentle, kissing, preening, and whistling to his mate.

Before your pair reaches this point, you may want to make sure the males toenails aren't sharp or long. If they are, you'll need to clip them. The female will not tolerate a male on top of her long enough to complete copulation if the nails are hurting her. Also, before breeding season begins, I clip the feathers around the vents of my breeders to provide more breeding success. I started this with my larger birds and when I found it worked with them, I began it with my cockatiels. I've had no clear eggs in birds I've clipped but did have them previously.

Copulation may occur several times a day. Eggs won't be produced from each mating. Cockatiels, like people don't always mate to raise a family. When they are ready to "make babies", the eggs will generally come.

After copulation you will need to start providing water for the hen. She will occasionally use this to sit in to provide moisture for the eggs (both the ones in the nest and the ones inside her).

One way you will know eggs are on the way (within a day or so) is that the hen will start having what I refer to as "pre lays". The droppings are retained by the female for long periods of time. Due to this, they will be HUGE compared to normal droppings. You will know these when you see them. These will continue throughout the nesting period. The hen may only come out to eliminate these every 12 hours. This is not unusual once they are staying in the nestbox for longer periods of time.

Expect your pairs to fight some but they shouldn't fight to the point that one of them gets hurt. If that should happen, remove the offending party and try starting from scratch with a new mate. The type of fights I'm referring to would be more like lovers quarrels. The male may want the female more often than the female wants the male and a quarrel ensues. The female may think the male needs to share the brooding or he may want to flirt with the female in the next cage while his mate is on eggs and a quarrel follows. Basically, they seem to act a lot like humans who are about to become, or are new parents. If you're lucky, they will both take to the mating/brooding/feeding like a pro and will get along like honeymooners.

Diet

Wild cockatiels normally feed on seeds, grasses, leaves and bark (from trees, bushes, and other vegetation). Additionally, cockatiels will eat grubs and different insects. Cockatiels are ground feeders which is one reason to use a grate on the bottom of their cages.

When preparing your birds for breeding and caring for young, provide them with a variety of nutritious soft foods and calcium supplements such as cuttlebone and/or mineral blocks. The calcium is used by the female's body during egg production. If the hen doesn't have enough calcium stored in her body, the eggs can be soft shelled and egg binding is more likely. Some foods I offer my breeders (in addition to pellets and seeds) are cooked rice, pasta, beans, corn on the cob, peas, oatmeal, carrots, broccoli, sweet potatoes, moist (not soaked) whole wheat bread, and things which have been cooked or softened in some manner. Even if your birds don't generally eat some of these items, they usually aren't picky during breeding and will feed their young as long as the food is soft and moist enough to feed to the babies. This is the perfect time to offer these items. It still may take the pair several tries before they will eat them, but generally they are willing to feed it to the babies once they arrive. I also sprinkle Bene-Bac, Spirulina, Echinacea, and Prozyme on all fresh food items I offer my birds. Remove fresh foods from the cage and replace every few hours to help control possible bacterial and fungal overgrowth.

Never breed an overweight bird (male or female). Obesity in birds tends to be passed on genetically. Another reason not to breed an overweight hen is that you take a much greater risk of her egg binding or having other related problems. One way to tell if a bird is overweight is to wet the feathers on the bird's abdomen with a small amount of rubbing alcohol. If you see a yellowish substance or coloring under the skin, it is overweight. At that point, I would recommend you check with a veterinarian about a good diet for your bird and choose another bird for breeding purposes.

Breeding Cages

Provide as much space as possible for a breeding cage. Most of my breeding cages are around 4' long by 18" deep by 18" high. If you can provide larger cages, it would be even better for the birds. In the cages I either add natural branches or at least two perches.

Nestboxes

For breeding purposes (in the wild) cockatiels prefer the wooded areas which are close to streams and rivers in the western regions of Australia. They will then make their nests in either holes, hollow branches or in rotting stumps or dead trees. When necessary, cockatiels will nest in live trees, but prefer not to do so. The cockatiels will form a depression in the bottom of their nests made of wood chips or rotting wood. No other nesting materials are generally used.

Most of my nestboxes are 12"x12"x12" and this seems to be a good size for both the parents and the babies. The majority of cockatiel breeders use boxes with 3" round holes near the top of the nestbox for the breeders to enter the box through. They also attach the boxes near the top of the cages. I (and my birds) prefer using rectangular 4" x 5" entrances which are located about 4" from the bottom of the nestbox. I attach the boxes near the bottom of the cage and on one end. I've found when trying both types of boxes, the birds were less hesitant to enter the boxes I use since they can stand on the floor of the cage and look in to be sure they are fine before entering them to prepare them for the female.

Clutches and Incubation

In the wild, a cockatiel normally lays from 3 to 10 eggs per clutch depending on the maturity of the birds and the time of year. I don't know how many of these live through weaning in the wild, but in captivity very few could raise ten babies to fledging/weaning.

Cockatiels in captivity generally lay between 3 and 8 eggs per clutch with the average being around 4 to 5 per clutch. The incubation period starts when the hen or pair start sitting on the eggs constantly. Some hens may wait until the 3rd egg to begin the incubation process, so all eggs will hatch close to the same time. Generally though, the hen will start incubating the eggs by the time she lays the 2nd egg. The normal incubation period for cockatiel eggs is between 18 and 21 days (from the day the hen or pair start sitting the eggs). The male and female generally take turns sitting on the eggs and do this in shifts. Some pairs will divide the eggs and each sit on half of them. They will also share the responsibility for feeding the chicks. Eggs will generally hatch every other day. From my observations, the eggs generally hatch in the early morning hours.

Parent Feeding

Usually, parent birds won't feed babies until 8 to 12 hours after hatching. This gives the baby a chance to absorb the yolk sac. I've never had a baby with a yolk sac problem but, if this isn't absorbed, the baby is unlikely to survive, even if handfed from day 1. If the parent hasn't begun to feed the baby after 8 hours, I will generally try to assist by giving the baby a drop or two of Pedialyte and then check again in a few hours to see if the parents have started feeding. Generally they have. If they haven't after 12 hours, I foster the baby out to another pair, but am prepared to assume the hand feeding role if doesn't work out. So far I've had very few times where I had to hand feed from day 1 and the few times I did, I've had poor luck. Babies at this age aren't much bigger than a large bumble bee and it's so easy to aspirate them.

A lot of people see a baby laying on it's back with a full crop and the fat abdomen and think something is wrong but it's perfectly normal from what I've observed with mine. Parents feed the new hatchlings this way until they are strong enough to stand and stretch while begging for food. Generally the one that cries the loudest and stretches the tallest will be the baby to get the majority of the food.

If a parent pushes a baby aside from the rest, there is a good chance it has a medical problem but, don't give up hope. You may be able to raise the baby to weaning by hand feeding it. I have one hen that will not feed more than 3 babies, but her babies are beautiful. So I let her breed, but plan ahead to either foster the baby out or hand feed it myself. I much prefer the fostering out to a 2 hours feeding schedule around the clock.

Most people believe the parents don't feed the babies during the night. In my experience, my birds continue feeding the babies through the night. I'm sure of this because my breeders are in the basement below my kitchen (which is where my computer is) and when I work late into the night, the peeping sound that is emitted during feeding is heard through the floor vent between the basement and my kitchen. When I've gone to check the boxes with a flashlight at these times, the parents were indeed feeding the babies (the food covering their beaks and faces was proof and seeing them feeding the babies was all the rest of the proof I've needed). My breeders feed the babies around the clock and I've heard reports from other breeders stating theirs do also.

Handling Chicks and Fledging

I generally band babies at around 10 days and pull babies at around 2 to 2 1/2 weeks of age for handfeeding, even if I intend to use them as possible breeders in the future. I've found some of my best breeders and parents were handfed. The handfed parents don't tend to be as nervous and pluck the babies much less. Most of my handfed breeders allow total access to the nestboxes to check on the eggs and/or babies as long as they get scritches while I'm checking them. The young generally fledge by around 3 1/2 to 4 weeks of age and are eating some foods on their own at this same age. They won't be completely weaned (eating enough on their own to maintain their weight) generally until between 6 and 10 weeks of age with the average age of weaning being around 8 weeks.

A few things to prepare or watch for when breeding your cockatiels are:

Unless you are EXTREMELY experienced with line breeding, DO NOT breed related birds. This can cause you much sadness and needless suffering on the part of the babies in the end. It causes genetic defects such as babies with extra wings, extra toes, missing toes or feet, birds with twisted spines, bald spots (such as those found in some lutinos), and internal genetic defects which can cause death in the babies. And, these are only a few of the possible problems you could encounter if the babies even live.

Clean nestboxes often (at least every few days). Some, but very few cockatiels will clean their own nestboxes. Depending on the number of chicks in the box it can get quite messy in a very short time period. If you allow the mess to remain, you are inviting bacterial and fungal infections where they aren't wanted.

When I clean the nest boxes, I block the entrance while the parents are out getting food for the babies. I place the babies in a warm bowl lined with tissues and in a warm and draft free location close to me. Then I remove all bedding material, take a wide putty knife and scrape any droppings from the sides of the box (baby birds tend to lift their vents up and eliminate on the sides of the box) and spread clean bedding. Then I return the babies to the nestbox and unblock the entrance. For bedding I use about 3 inches of very large pine chips (much larger than normal pine bedding). By using the larger chips I've never had a baby die from ingesting bedding.

If the parents pluck the babies, be watchful for which parent is doing the plucking and change partners before breeding them again. Generally if a parent abuses the babies in this manner, the babies will be abusive towards their babies also. Child and spouse abuse aren't only found in the human race and it, like a good temperament, is passed down from one generation to the next from what I've seen personally with my birds.

If you are making your own cages, DON'T use chicken wire or wire with 1"x1" square openings. The openings in these types of wire are too large. One day you will come home to find either a dead bird or one close to death, with it's head stuck in the wires. I'm speaking from experience. It's VERY upsetting to know it is your fault if something like this has happened. So it is best to avoid the chance of it occurring in the first place. The wire I've found the most suitable for cockatiel cages is 1/2" x 1" galvanized after welding wire. If you choose to use galvanized wire, scrub it thoroughly with a vinegar and water solution to remove the zinc from the coating. The shinier the wire, the higher the zinc content. As the birds chew on the wire, they ingest some of the zinc which can reach toxic levels and kill your birds. Also, when you see the white powder on the cages, get the vinegar and water out again, because the powder is pure zinc. If you use wire which was welded after it was galvanized, you're taking a big chance also, since the welds contain the most lead (which can also reach toxic levels in your birds and cause their death).

Don't surprise the parents by opening the box abruptly when they are on eggs or with chicks. I've had parents get scared this way and they trampled babies to death or broke eggs.

DO NOT allow your birds to continue to breed more than two clutches per season. It is best if you only allow 2 clutches per year, but most hens seem to ignore our wishes and lay another clutch before we can pull the first clutch for handfeeding. To let cockatiels lay more than two clutches in a row without shutting them down for a several months rest is dangerous. Over breeding cockatiels will cause egg binding, prolapsed uterus, egg peritonitis and an early death due to breeding related problems in the end.

There are many sources for more information on breeding cockatiels. In addition to books on the subject, the National Cockatiel Society and the American Cockatiel Society are good sources. You can also visit their websites on the Internet and/or participate in Internet cockatiel forums, chats and mailing lists.

Winged Wisdom Note: Amy Patria has owned birds for 9 years and began breeding 5 years ago. In addition to breeding Ringnecks, Parrotlets, Nandays, Budgies, Alexandrines, Amazons, and lots of Cockatiels, she also owns many more birds. Amy is currently the Webmistress for the National Cockatiel Society's website and chats and has written a number of articles on cockatiels.

Major Mitchell's Cockatoo birds

2015-06-24T06:17:00.001-07:00

Major Mitchell's Cockatoo birds

Major Mitchell's Cockatoo Species Profile

Traits: Major Mitchell's cockatoos are strikingly beautiful parrots. Females tend to be more docile than males of this species and therefore tend to make better pets. Major Mitchell's cockatoos are inquisitive and will explore everything in the house, and therefore need to be given safe opportunities to explore, play and chew. Like most cockatoo species, Major Mitchell's cockatoos demand a lot of attention and they let their owners know it. When given structured attention, this species makes a very affectionate pet.

Behavior/Health Concerns: Like many cockatoo species, Major Mitchell's cockatoos can be destructive chewers, and for this reason should not be permitted to roam the house unsupervised. They are very active and need a pet bird cage large enough for them to fully spread their wings. They can learn to open cages, so escape-proof latches may be necessary. Male Major Mitchell's cockatoos can become aggressive toward their mates. This species needs sufficient time and structured attention in order to prevent destructive behaviors, such as feather-picking and self-mutilation. Because they can tend to be picky eaters, ensure they eat a well-balanced diet.

Expert Advice

"Although Major Mitchell's cockatoos are the most beautiful cockatoo, they are not a favorite pet as they can lack the [affection] that other cockatoo species [are known to have]. This cockatoo is mainly for breeders who are experts at raising cockatoos, as they have a history of attacking the females, [known as] mate aggression

What does it look like?

Description:

The Major Mitchell's Cockato is a small, largely white cockatoo with pink on the sides of its head, around its neck, on its underbody and under its wings. The crest appears white when folded but when raised and spread it has a broad red band with a yellow stripe through the middle. This cockatoo is also known as Leadbeater's, Desert, Major Mitchell or Pink Cockatoo; Cocklerina, Chockalott or Wee Juggler.

Similar species:

The stunning light pink colour makes this cockatoo unmistakeable. It is much paler than the Galah.

Where does it live?

Distribution:

Major Mitchell's Cockatoo is mainly found in inland arid areas, but sometimes strays well outside its normal range. In Queensland it is generally found south of 25*S in central, southern Queensland. In New south Wales it is widespread west of 147*E, but is found further east. In Victoria it is mostly restricted to the northwest of the state. It is found in a range of arid inland areas in South and Western Australia and in the Northern Territory,south of 17*S. (Birds seen near Brisbane, Sydney or Canberra are probably escapees from aviaries).

Habitat:

Major Mitchell's Cockatoos live mostly in semi-arid and arid areas, in dry woodlands, particuarly mallee. They are also found in stands of River Red Gum, Eucalyptus camaldulensis, or Black Box, E. largiflorens, and on sand plains and dunes. Sometimes they are found in other areas such as Acacia shrubland with a spinifex (Trioda) ground cover, or Banksia heathlands.

Seasonal movements:

Major Mitchell's Cockatoos may live in much the same area all year round if there is sufficient water. They can be partly nomadic in arid areas, moving in response to the availability of food and water.

What does it do?

Feeding:

Major Mitchell's Cockatoos lives on a range of foods - seeds of grasses and herbaceous plants, fruit, roots, bulbs and insect larvae.

Breeding:

Major Mitchell's Cockatoos nest in large hollows in trees such as River Red Gum, E. camaldulensis, Black Box, E. largiflorens, Coolibah, E. microtheca, or Callitris. The eggs are laid on a bed of decayed wood, woodchips and bark. Male and female will chew at a tree-hollow to enlarge it, and both will sit on the eggs while incubating them. Both male and female feed and preen the chicks.

Living with us

Populations of Major Mitchell's Cockatoos have declined and their ranges been reduced by: land clearing, which has decreased the availability of nesting hollows; trapping and nest-robbing for the captive bird trade; replacement of suitable habitats with cereal crops, which reduces food variety.

Cockatoo Adoption Process

2015-06-21T07:48:00.000-07:00

Adoption Process

It has become necessary to list the ground rules by which we operate. Please take the time to read the following before submitting an application.

1. Our number one priority is the birds we are charged with caring for.

2. YES, we do charge a fee to adopt a bird. WHY? Because there is a great deal of time, money, sweat, blood, and tears that go into the rehabilitation of many of our birds. It takes money, time, and considerable effort to find these birds forever homes and often times we have costly veterinary bills for these birds. However, our fees are much less than retail and are based on the individual bird. We are not going to give away the birds. To do this would be to let down the birds that we are currently caring for and eventually, will cause us to shut our doors as there will be NO money left to care for any of the birds. If you are looking for a free bird, please look elsewhere as birds are not free nor are they inexpensive to keep as companions. On occasion, there are those birds that come in to us that are very, very ill. We have very high veterinary bills for these birds and sometimes simply cannot justify passing them on or we know that no one will adopt the bird at the fee we would need to recoup our vet fees. So, the bird gets a fee that is more in line with the species of bird and we take a loss.

3. Our fees are NOT listed on our web site because each bird's fee is based upon the costs we have incurred. Please do NOT call and ask the prices of our birds. Our process tries to match the bird with your family and not to try to place a bird based upon its adoption fee. If this is how you are geared at shopping, then our process is going to disappoint you as we are not a pet store. We can assure you that ALL of our birds are well below retail that you would find at any pet store/breeder. We spend 1-2 hours daily taking phone calls regarding the fees, the personalities, etc. of each of our birds. Please understand that this takes us away from caring for these magnificent creatures and therefore violates # 1 above. Once approved, you will know ALL of the costs involved in adopting a specific bird. Many times the bird you are calling on is not one that would be most suited for your family so we go back and forth utilizing precious time that no one really has these days.

4. WE DO NOT SHIP OUR BIRDS, EVER!!!!! Please don't call us and ask us to as this will violate # 1 above. We won't ship our birds as this is highly stressful for the bird, costly, and most airlines won't ship anymore since the tragedies of 09/11. Also, we MUST perform a home inspection. Further, you MUST meet the bird PRIOR to our decision to adopt to you. This way we know the bird will like you and you will like the bird. There are NO EXCEPTIONS to this policy.

5. Due to many of the problems we have found and the costs involved in out of state adoptions, we are suspending adopting out of state until further notice. Also, since we are required to perform a home inspection, we must now limit our distance to travel (at the discretion of the Director).

6. ALL of our birds receive the following veterinary work (this is what your fees come from):

a. Psittacosis,

b. Polyoma testing, NOT the vaccination (Note: Some birds have received these vaccinations prior to coming to the Refuge and will not be tested for polyoma),

c. Psittacine Beak and Feather,

d. Complete Blood Count (CBC),

e. Avian Chemistry Panel (including bile acids), ,

f. Fecal - Float,

g. For those birds who remain beyond 1 (one) year, they receive a fecal - float and CBC annually.

7. If you have been approved to adopt and you currently have birds, ALL of your birds MUST have the aforementioned testing protocol or we will NOT adopt a bird to you. We would need proof of current vet records to include the above as well as a papilloma check, and a general examination. This goes back to rule # 1. We will not expose our birds to ANY untested birds and you should not either. While this can be cost prohibitive, we cannot place our birds, whom have had all of these tests, into a home with birds that have not been tested to these standards. Since the costs can be prohibitive, there are some less expensive ways to get the testing done. Please contact the Director to determine what methods are most appropriate for your individual situation.

8. How long will this take? That depends. We are a small, all-volunteer organization that work full-time jobs outside of the rescue in order to support the rescue. PLEASE be patient with us. Each application will be carefully reviewed and given the utmost consideration it deserves, just as our birds do.

Cockatoo Adoption

2015-06-21T07:46:00.002-07:00

Cockatoo Adoption

Cockatoos can’t seem to shake the “velcro bird,” moniker. These birds have a tendency to want to be everywhere their people are. The cockatoo’s cuddly nature is definitely one of its biggest draws. The key to healthy, happy cockatoo relationship, however, is a balance of independent play and scheduled human interaction. After all, of all the species of companion parrot, cockatoos, would be most likely to find themselves on the therapist’s couch to deal with co-dependency issues, complaining, if they could, “I just want to be loved and appreciated.”

Cockatoos, can be quite vocal, which can make for a tricky situation for those who have close neighbors. Companion cockatoos come in two sizes: large cockatoos and small cockatoos. Large cockatoos are noticeably bigger, and include the umbrella, Moluccan, greater sulphur crest and triton. Smaller cockatoos include the bare eye, slender bill, Goffin’s, rose breast, lesser sulphur crest and citron.

Most people think of cockatoos as being all-white birds, yet they come in many colors. Moluccans are salmon colored, rose breasts are pink and gray, sulphur crests have yellow crest feathers as well as on the underside of their wings, and there are also black colored cockatoos (although they are rare as pets). These include the palm cockatoo and the gang-gang cockatoo.

If you are sensitive to dust and dander, a cockatoo might aggravate your sinuses, because they (along with cockatiels and African grey parrots) produce powder-down (fine dust particles composed of feathers that have broken down).

Cockatoo Care

2015-06-21T01:13:00.000-07:00

Cockatoo Care

On top of that, Cockatoos are very intelligent and inquisitive birds, and they love to show off!

A Cockatoo will make comical displays with outspread wings, head bobbing, dancing, and loud calls. These birds are very active and curious about their environment. A happy cockatoo spends most of its waking time performing, or examining and manipulating its toys and other cage objects.

Because of their loving quailties and intelligence, Cockatoos have a very high need for attention, affection, and interaction. A single cockatoo will thrive as your pet only if you devote time and attention to it. You will need to spend a good deal of time playing with it and sharing affections on a regular daily basis.

However, two pet cockatoos can be ideal if you are not able to devote so much time and attention as the bird will demand. Bored cockatoos are notorious for developing bad habits such as screeching and feather plucking. Having two will help to prevent bad habits from developing by a bored bird.

Distribution:

The cockatoos natural habitats are found over large areas of Australia and Indonesia. Cockatoos in the wild are found in three very distinct ranges. They are found in the tropical rainforests which are wet with high temperatures, on the grassy plains, and on the dry savannahs.

Description:

The term "cockatoo" is a Malaysian word thought to have possibly two meanings, "pincher" or "old father". The term 'pincher' is definitely descriptive as the cockatoos have extremely powerful beaks. A cockatoo can take apart or demolish a wooden toy in no time!

These birds both look and behave differently than any of the other parrots, and are some of the longest lived.

Cockatoo Facts:

These birds both look and behave differently than any of the other parrots, and are some of the longest lived.

Description:

Cockatoos mostly have a single color plumage, either white or dark. They have "erectile crests", which is a mobile crest of feathers. Their beaks are enormously powerful and they can easily demolish objects.

Age and Life Span:

It is difficult to determine the age of a cockatoo, however young cockatoos will have a beak that is smooth and pale and their plumage will be paler, while an older bird's beak will be darker and have striations and their plumage will have a fuller coloration. Cockatoos are thought to be the longest lived of all parrots with examples cited of the Greater Sulphur-Crested Cockatoo having lived over 100 years.

Sex Differences:

On most species of Cockatoo, the eye iris of the female will become red to red-brown after about two years. This helps to determine the sex of the bird.

However the eye coloration is not so pronounced on some species. On these birds, the sex must be determined by either a surgical probe, endoscopy, or by a DNA testing. Endoscopy can be done by many veterinarians. DNA testing is done usually with a blood sample or a few plucked feathers that are sent to be diagnosed in a lab.

Care and feeding:

Bird Food:

A Cockatoo diet consisting of a basic large hookbill seed mix with supplements of sprouted seeds and all sorts of fruits and vegetables is generally regarded as suitable.

Some examples of supplements are apples, pears, plums, raisons, oranges, bananas, peaches, carrots, broccoli, lettuce, chickweed, dandelions, and lots more! Do not feed avocado as it is toxic to birds!

Occasional proteins can be offered such as cottage cheese, bits of cheese, hard boiled eggs, canned dog food, and cooked meat bones. Stay away from highly seasoned, fatty processed meats.

Vitamins and minerals should not be necessary with a good varied diet except in times of change or stress. If your cockatoo has a tendency to destroy calcium blocks, as an alternative, calcium can be sprinkled on their food about once a week.

Water:

Give you cockatoo fresh drinking water every day.

Bird Baths:

Most cockatoos really do not need to be washed any more than a cat would. This is because they are extremely clean by nature and preen themselves regularly. They naturally produce a great deal of dust which aids in keeping their wings and skin healthy. However, a cockatoo's personal hygiene may include a weekly shower or bath to get rid of accumulated feather dust. For the bird, bathing is strictly an individual preference, as in the wild some cockatoos will enjoy standing in the rain while others will dive for cover.

Bathing a cockatoo in anything other than plain water can change the pH of its feathers and may lead to troubles such as infections, or parasitic infestations like mites. A shower can be accomplished with either a hand held shower sprayer or a hose with a fine spray head and lukewarm water. A bath pan or ceramic dish 12"-14" (30-35 cm) can be placed on the bottom of the cage or mounted at about 39" (1m) above the floor in an aviary.

Bird Grooming:

If cockatoos are not partnered with another bird, they will need assistance from their owners to preen. Scratch lightly in the direction of the feathers on the top of the heads, the neck area, and other areas they can't reach. This will help remove the clear feather sheaths from new feathers, as these can get itchy and uncomfortable.

The wings should be kept trim if you want to discourage flight and to prevent the loss of your pet through an open window or door.

The beak and claws need to be trimmed if they are not worn down from climbing and chewing. A variety of concrete type perches are available to help the keep nails trim, but they should still be trimmed if they become overgrown. Because cockatoos will demolish mineral blocks, lava blocks, and other beak grooming items in a matter of a few minutes, they won't work to keep beaks trim.

Housing:

Bird Cages:

For cockatoos, the larger the enclosure you can provide, the better. The ideal size of any bird cage should be equal to at least 3 flight wingspans of the bird. Anything smaller is detrimental to the bird unless it has freedom outside the cage. A minimum size cage to house a small cockatoo is 27" x 27 " x 39" (70x70x100 cm), which should then be accompanied with regularly outside time for the bird to exercise. For larger cockatoos a larger cage must be considered.

Horizontal bars are important as your cockatoo needs to climb. Keep in mind that because of the strength of their beaks, cockatoos are able to bend bars and pop the joints on cages. For additional security on the cage door, a snap lock is recommended.

Bird Perch:

Provide one or two perches about 3/4' in diameter and dishes hanging from the side for feed, water, and grit. Try to place the perches away from dishes so the food and water dish do not become soiled with bird droppings. Do not use plastic because your bird will chew and break the plastic and it can become hazardous.

Where to Place Bird Cages:

Your cockatoo is very social and inquisitive, so the room you house your pet in must be a room that gets visited frequently by the family. Place the cage at eye level in a quiet sunny area away from drafts.

Aviary:

Indoor Aviaries: For a small cockatoo the minimum size of a suitable indoor aviary is about 39" x 39" x 78" (100x100x200 cm), and of course larger for the larger cockatoos.

Outdoor Aviaries: An outdoor or breeding aviary needs to have a protected shelter that can be heated and cooled where necessary and have a sand floor. An attached flight cage should be 78" x 117" x 78" (2x3x2 m) for small cockatoos, and of course bigger for larger cockatoos. One third of the flight cage should be covered. Equip the flight cage with a perch at each end. A climbing branch and a bird bath are nice additions too.

Maintenance:

The basic cage care includes daily cleaning of the water and food dishes and wiping off the feather dust from the bars and perches. Twice weekly change the bottom trays and replace the soiled litter. Weekly you should wash all the perches and dirty toys and monthly you should clean the entire cage. A total hosing down and disinfecting of an aviary and flight should be done twice a year, replacing anything that needs to be freshened, such as old dishes, toys, perches, and the sand on the floor.

Social Behaviors:

In the wild, all cockatoo species live together in flocks. Some species may flock in groups of only 8-10 birds while others species will flock in the thousands. This high socialization need has a profound affect on cockatoo behavior. If they don't get the necessary attention and interaction they can quickly become bored. A bored cockatoo will often develop bad habits like screaming and feather plucking, and these habits are extremely difficult to break.

Here are some guidelines to provide the best environment and promote good cockatoo behavior:

Keeping Single Cockatoo:

Intelligent and highly inquisitive, coupled with a great need for companionship, shapes the cockatoo behavior. Cockatoos are constantly active and always up for playing and interacting with a friend. Keeping a single cockatoo will take serious commitment of time and attention from you for your pet to thrive. Each day you will need to spend a good deal of time playing with your cockatoo and sharing affections.

Keeping a Pair of Cockatoos:

Because of their need to socialize, cockatoos are generally best kept in pairs. They also do fine with another bird of similar size for companionship. The main reason for pairing is so that they do not become so dependent on their keeper and their keepers time.

The drawback to keeping a pair is that the noise will be much greater. Cockatoos love to play and will keep it up all day, but part of their play includes loud calls, which in some cases can turn into long earsplitting shrieks.

Cockatoos and Pets:

Cockatoos and other pets, such as dogs and cats, may or may not develop a friendly relationship with each other. This is generally a "wait and see" situation. Other small animals such as rodents and small birds are best kept away from a cockatoo. If they fall prey to the cockatoo's beak, it can be fatal.

Cockatoos and Children:

Never leave cockatoos unattended with babies or small children! Cockatoos can get very jealous of babies and small children. The child could get attacked by the cockatoo's beak or sharp claws so you should always be on your guard. Cockatoos and older children will often do fine, but even here it's a "wait and see" situation. You won't know for sure how they will get along until the relationship unfolds over time

Handling/Training:

The cockatoo is highly intelligent but they are not know as great talkers. Their ability to repeat some words or sounds can be accomplished with repeated training, but this is not the cockatoo's strength. Their outstanding ability comes from being great performers! This is demonstrated by such antics as dancing, playing tug-of-war, climbing, and shaking.

Cockatoos will use "tools", various objects and toys to play and perform with, such as roller skating. They are very inventive and if toys are not provided they will use what is at hand. Objects 'at hand' often take the form of their food dishes and perches.

Taming Basics:

To be able to handle and train your cockatoo depends first on trust, so go slowly and be consistent. Taming and training is best done in a room with few distractions. A hand fed baby will not need much taming and can often be handled right away, as it is use to human attention.

Initial Training:

Taming proceeds in steps, start with cage taming where you can approach your cockatoo's cage without it jumping off it's perch and heading to an opposite corner. You overcome this by talking to your pet with soothing words and slow gentle movements until it gets accustomed to you.

Next is hand taming, where your cockatoo will climb on your hand and allow you to carry it around. You can accomplish this by offering it treats from outside the cage until it is comfortable with your hand.

As your cockatoo becomes comfortable with taking treats from your hand, you then open the cage door and repeat the same process but now you are reaching into it's cage with the treat. Once you've earned it's trust, your cockatoo will begin climbing on your hand and allowing you to pet him.

Advanced Training:

Other training, such as tricks and imitating speech will take patience and repeated efforts.

Activities:

Exercise and play are important bird activities for the physical well being and psychological health of all cockatoos. They are extraordinarily playful. Cockatoos will play all day long with only short breaks for rest.

Getting out of the cage onto a playpen with lots of climbing branches is very important for the emotional well being of your pet. These activities help deter distress and prevent the problems of screeching and feather picking. Provide your parrot with lots of activities in the form of large link chains, bird ladders, parrot swings, ropes, fresh branches for gnawing and chewing, and rotate new bird toys on a regular basis.

When a new toy is introduced, your cockatoo will approach it warily.The bird will examine with caution and observe it from all sides. Once it has done this, it will accept and play with it for hours.

Cockatoos that have flight feathers will fly if they out of their cage. If you have a flight aviary, your cockatoo will love to fly between perches widely spaced apart. A cockatoo that is clipped cannot fly so it cannot use a flight aviary. It will take about a year for its feathers to grow back.

Breeding/Reproduction:

Because the cockatoos are threatened with extinction, successful breeding is helping to preserve the species and reduce the number of wild caught birds. There are no breeding regulations in the United States, Canada, or the United Kingdom, though other countries might have restrictions and you should consult with the authorities in your country before undertaking breeding.

Breeding cockatoos can be difficult and it is in not recommended for a beginner. The best success in breeding cockatoos in captivity started with the greater sulphur-crested, lesser sulphur-crested, and the rose-breasted cockatoos, though several others are now also being breed successfully.

Some basics for breeding cockatoos include:

Pairing Cockatoos:

Pet cockatoos have a very difficult time getting used to a mate so are very hard to use for attempts at breeding. Establishing any harmonious cockatoo pair can be difficult. It is best to have several young birds together and let them pair naturally.

Sexing Cockatoos:

Most cockatoo species are easily sexed. The lesser sulphur-crested, greater sulphur-crested, umbrella, Goffin's, rose-breasted and Philippine cockatoos have a red-brown, brown, or chestnut-brown iris in the female after about two years of age. The Mollucan is basically the same except the female iris is dark brown so it can be difficult to distinguish from the slightly darker iris of the male.

Both sexes of the bare-eyed cockatoo have the dark iris, but the male is a larger bird and the female has more feathering around the eye than the male. Sometimes with the Bare-eyed and the Mollucan you can only be certain if you have them sexed by either a surgical probe, endoscopy, a DNA test, or a chromosonal analysis.

Breeding Environment:

The best environment for breeding cockatoos is accomplished in an aviary. Place the cockatoo's square nesting box, or a round hollowed out tree trunk of the same approximate size, high in the aviary. On the bottom of the nest box, put a 4" (10 cm) layer of soft bedding such as wood shavings.

The nesting box for a small cockatoo should be 10"-12" (25-30 cm) wide x 23"-31" (60-80 cm) high, with a hole size of 4" (10-12 cm). For a medium cockatoo it should be 12"-14" (30-35 cm) wide x 31"-39" (80-100 cm) high, with a hole size of 4"-5" (10-12 cm). For the larger cockatoos it should be 14"-18" (35-45 cm) wide x 47"-59" (120-150 cm) high with a hole size of 5"-6" (12-15 cm).

Egg Laying and Hatchlings:

The cockatoo female will lay between 2 to 3 eggs. Brooding, depending on which species, is between 25 to 30 days. The young are naked and blind when hatched and don't open their eyes for several weeks. Hatchlings take between 60 and 100 days to become fully plumed and at that time they will begin to explore outside of the nest. However they will still be dependent for another two to three weeks before ready leave the nest for good.

Potential Problems:

A cockatoo that is well cared for will seldom become ill. Though it is often difficult to determine illness, some visible signs of illness can be plumage that is lusterless, ruffled, or has bare spots. Other signs may be having no appetite, sneezing, discharge from the nostrils, slit eyes instead of round, the bird sleeps a lot resting on both feet instead of having one foot tucked up, develops movements of neurotic screaming, begins feather plucking, and any change in the feces.

Some of the common illnesses your cockatoo could contract are parasites, intestinal inflammation, coccidiosis, respiratory ailments, feather picking, and parrot fever also known as psittacosis which is not common but is contagious to humans and can be dangerous.

Isolate the bird in a hospital cage with an infrared lamp placed about 23" (60 cm) distance from the cage. If it does not perk within 24 hours, the ailing parrot should be taken to a avian veterinarian for diagnosis and treatment

Availability:

Several cockatoo species are readily available in the pet industry. You should be able to find cockatoos for sale from a pet store. You can also find cockatoos for sale from bird breeders, bird farms, and often on-line. There are many hand fed babies becoming increasingly available.

Cockatoos are among those birds that are endangered or threatened with extinction. There is an export ban on all birds from Australia, so young birds available for public sale in the United States today are captive bred birds.

Author: Clarice Brough, CAS

Lesser Sulphur-Crested Cockatoo birds

2015-06-21T00:57:00.000-07:00

Lesser Sulphur-Crested Cockatoo birds

Scientific Name: Cacatua sulphurea

Size: 13 inches

Native Region: Indonesian Islands

Life Expectancy: 50 to 60 years

Noise Level: Moderate

Talk/Trick Ability: Fair-Good talking ability; Good trick ability

Traits: Lesser sulphur-crested cockatoos are playful, mischievous, entertaining birds that delight in learning and showing off new behaviors. They are known to be escape artists and can learn to unlock and open cage doors. They are very affectionate and demand a great deal of attention and can start to engage in destructive behavior, such as feather plucking, if not given structured attention; therefore they are best suited to someone who has the time and desire to devote to the bird.

Behavior/Health Concerns: Lesser sulphur-cockatoos have a great need to chew, so provide plenty of healthy pet bird toys and materials. They are dusty birds, so they are not suitable for people with breathing problems. Keep a lesser sulphur-crested cockatoo’s feather dust down with a daily bath. It is important to spend structured, focused time, including teaching the lesser sulphur-crested cockatoo how to play by itself. Doing this can help prevent destructive behaviors from developing due to lack of attention, as they can become neurotic if left alone.

Expert Advice

"The lesser sulphur-crested cockatoo can be a delightful pet if trained properly. This cockatoo tends to bond to one person only, and can be nervous. They are very intelligent and can do a variety of tricks. Some can speak well, but have a limited vocabulary."

The Lesser Sulphur-crested Cockatoos are very docile. They can learn to speak and are easy to teach all kinds of tricks. This is a smaller cockatoo and they are sometimes referred to as the "apartment-sized cockatoo". They are pretty birds with a delicate beautiful appearance and their movements are very gracefully.

Like cockatoos in general, they are a very loving type of bird. Affection is readily accepted and returned in kind. They are a pet that not only appreciates interaction but requires it and needs a lot of attention from their owners. Buy a cockatoo only if you can spend a lot of time with it

Subspecies:

Lesser Sulphur-crested Cockatoo

Cacatua sulphurea sulphurea

Citron-crested Cockatoo

Cacatua sulphurea citrinocristata

Cacatua sulphurea djampeana

Cacatua sulphurea abbotti

Cacatua sulphurea occidentalis

Cacatua sulphurea parvula

The Lesser Sulphur-crested Cockatoo is divided into six subspecies. They very much resemble the Greater Sulphur-crested Cockatoo but are much smaller, being 3 or 4 inches shorter in length. Except for the Citron-crested Cockatoo they are all similar to each other as well, with differences being in the amount of yellow, the size of the bill, or combinations of these. The Citron-crested Cockatoo is decidedly different in that its crest and ear-coverts are orange rather than yellow and it is a bit larger than the others.

Distribution:

This bird is found in Sulawesi (Celebes), Sunda Islands, and other adjoining islands. They inhabit open woodlands, the edge of forests, and cultivated wheat fields.

Description:

Lesser Sulphur-crested Cockatoos are a smaller cockatoo. They have a white plummage with a yellow or "sulphur" colored crest on the top of their head. There is also yellow their cheeks and on the undersides of their wings and tail. They can learn to talk, as can most cockatoos and are easy to teach all kinds of tricks. Mature birds are about 33 cm (13 inches) in length.

In many respects the Lesser Sulphur-crested Cockatoo resembles the Greater Sulphur-crested Cockatoo. Technically these two species would be referred to as 'superspecies', meaning two similar species that are geographically separated. Besides size, the Greater Sulphur-crested being a larger bird, there are a few other criteria used to identify them. The Lesser Sulphur-crested Cockatoos have a heavier, wider, and less protruding beak, their crest is usually narrower, and the bare skin around their eyes is much whiter.

Birds that are called the 'Medium Sulphur-crested Cockatoo' are generally the Eleanora Cockatoo Cacatua galerita eleonora, a subspecies of Greater Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, though in earlier writings this term sometimes referred to larger individuals of the Lesser Sulphur-crested Cockatoo.

Care and feeding:

A roomy cage is required unless the bird is to be let out for extended periods. Many birds can spend most of their time on a play pen or parrot perch.

In the wild they eat seeds, berries, nuts, fruits and probably vegetable matter. They eat a variety of seeds, nuts, fruits, and commercial pellets, as well as the same nutritional foods humans eat

Social Behaviors:

In the wild Cockatoos are friendly and peaceful. They live in pairs or small flocks though sometimes they will gather in very large flocks to feed.

They enjoy and require a lot of affection and attention. It is often recommended that they be kept in pairs so they will keep each other company. This can help to reduce the amount of time you will have to devote to an individual bird.

Sexual differences:

Hard to tell the sex of young birds. As they get older the iris of the females' eyes will develop a reddish color, he males' eyes will be dark brown to black.

Potential Problems:

Cockatoos can be quite loud screechers. This behavior can be reduced by giving attention and by proper surroundings. Also, since they are prone to chewing, if they are not given enough attention they will chew their own feathers.

Availability:

These birds are becoming readily available.

Activities:

Loves to climb and play and chew. Provide lots of toys.

Galah or Rose-breasted Cockatoos / Roseate

2015-06-20T08:29:00.000-07:00

Galah or Rose-breasted Cockatoos / Roseate

Scientific Name: Eolophus roseicapillus

Size: Medium, up 15 inches

Native Region: Australia

Life Expectancy: 65 years

Noise Level: Loud

Talk/Trick Ability: Moderate

Traits: An endless performer, the rose-breasted cockatoo thrives on interaction from its human flock and a plethora of toys while on its own. To keep rose-breasted cockatoos happy, they need at least one hour of playtime a day. They also exercise time with their owner and several more hours of supervised out of the cage time.

Behavior/Health Concerns: Without enough mental and physical stimulation, rose-breasted cockatoos can resort to destructive behaviors, such as feather picking. They are susceptible to psittacine beak and feather disease (PBFD), fatty liver disease, obesity and bumblefoot. While these pet birds need attention and time with humans, they must also learn how to be independent and not become accustomed to an excessive amount of human attention. Rose-breasted cockatoos can become territorial once they have matured and they are often destructive chewers. These pet birds are known to be dusty birds, and which is a concern for those with allergies.

Expert Advice

“In my experience, rosies are quite different from most of the white cockatoos and can be compared in some ways to the African grey. They will suffer if raised in less than optimal rearing conditions, and can develop very fearful behavior at times if stability in the environment isn’t present in their early years.

The Galah Cockatoos (Eolophus roseicapillus) - also known as Rose-breasted Cockoatoos - are generally well-adapted birds that are found in abundance throughout central Australia. They are also becoming increasingly common towards the coastal regions.

They are usually seen in large flocks, often feeding with Sulphur Crested Cockatoos.

Galahs make wonderful, energetic pets and when trained with consistency have a good talking ability. These birds have an affectionate and bubbly personality and are extremely popular as pets.

They are very smart and enjoy human company, loving to learn new tricks and impress their owner. Being well adapted to the dry conditions of central Australia, the Galah is a hardy and robust bird that adjusts well to climatic changes.

They are also keen chewers and require toys or other forms of boredom relief to keep them stimulated and out of trouble. Pet galahs should always be obtained as hand reared birds from aviary-bred parents and once again, males generally make better pets than females. It is not advisable to obtain a pet Galah from the wild as these birds quickly revert to their wild behaviours and become difficult birds to keep.

Distribution:

The Galah Cockatoo is one of the most common and widespread cockatoos. It occupies open country in almost all parts of mainland Australia. Galahs are found in all Australian states, and are absent only from the driest areas and the far north of Cape York Peninsula. They appear to have been self-introduced to Tasmania.

They are common in some metropolitan areas, for example Perth and Melbourne, and common to abundant in open habitats which offer at least some scattered trees for shelter. The changes wrought by European settlement, a disaster for many species, have been highly beneficial for the Galah because of the clearing of forests in fertile areas and the provision of stock watering points in arid zones.

lutino rose-breasted cockatooDescription:

Galah Cockatoos typically measure around 14 inches or 350mm in length and weigh between 10 - 14 oz or 281 and 400 grams.

Galahs have a pale to mid grey back, a pink face and chest, and a lighter pink crest.

The most obvious external feature of a cockatoo is the erectile crest that raises immediately when alarmed or excited.

When the crest is lowered, the feathers fold back over the head and the crest is hardly visible.

As attractive as the cockatoo crests are, their major purpose is communication.

A raised crest can indicate that a cockatoo is displaying for its mate; defending its territory or its flock, calling its flock members; or a cockatoo may be expressing curiosity, excitement, surprise, fear or frustration. For those approaching a cockatoo -a raised crest may be a warning not to touch them - or else risk being bitten.

A lowered crest can indicate calmness, friendliness and general approachability.

Males and females look alike, differing only in eye color: the male has a brown iris, the female red.

Owners have described the Galahs to be surprisingly "undusty" for lack of a better word. They are much less dusty than say african greys. Their pink and grey feathers feel soft to the touch.

Diet / Feeding

In their natural habitat, cockatoos typically feed on various seeds, nuts and fruits, such as papaya, durian, langsat and rambutan. As they are also feed on corn growing in fields, they do considerable damage and are, therefore, considered crop pests by farmers. (BirdLife International, 2001)

They also eat large insects, such as crickets (order Orthoptera) and skinks.

Captive birds are usually provided a parrot mix containing various seeds, nuts and dried fruits and vegetables. Additionally, they need to be offered lots of fresh vegetables, fruits and branches (with leaves) for chewing and entertainment.

Please refer to this webpage for information on what to feed cockatoos.

Reproduction

Breeding Season

Cockatoos only breed once a year - usually between December and March, when vegetation growth is at its peak and food is readily available.

Bonded Galah PairCourtship and Mating

As part of the courtship behavior, the male ruffles his feathers, spreads his tail feathers, extends his wings, and erects his crest. He then bounces about. Initially, the female ignores or avoids him, but - provided he meets her approval - will eventually allow him to approach her.

Once a female has accepted a male, the pair will be spend a good part of the day preen each other's head and scratch each other around the tail. This serves to strengthen their pair bond. Before long, the male mounts the female to perform the actual act of mating by joining of the cloacae. This ritual is usually longer in new pairs and much shorter in bonded pairs. In some instances, the female may even approach the male to initiate the act. Pairs usually separate from their group to find a nesting spot in trees.

Cockatoos form a close bond that lasts for a lifetime. If they are separated, they may slip into a deep depression. In absence of a "true" mate, they may accept a caretaker as its mate.

Classification:

The classification of the Galah is difficult. It was originally placed alone in the genus Eolophus, as there are clear morphological differences between the Galah and the white cockatoos that make up genus Cacatua (though older sources place the Galah in that genus). DNA evidence, however, conflicts with this, suggesting that the Galah is most closely related to the Cockatiel. It is thought that the ancestors of the Galah, the Cockatiel, and Major Mitchell's Cockatoo diverged from the main white cockatoo line at some stage prior to that group's main radiation. Aviary bred crosses of Galahs and Major Mitchells have been bred in Sydney, with the tapered wings of the Galah and the crest and colors of the Major Mitchell, as well as its plaintive cry.

Three subspecies are usually recognised. The south-eastern form, E. r. roseicapillus is clearly distinct from the paler-bodied Western Australian form, E. r. assimilis, although the extent and nature of the central hybrid zone remains undefined. Most pet birds outside Australia are the south-eastern form. The third form, E. r. kuhli, is found right across the northern part of the continent, tends to be a little smaller and is distinguished by differences in the shape of the crest and eye-ring, although its status as a true subspecies is uncertain.

Behavior / Pet Potential:

Galahs are highly social, affectionate and friendly - and very long lived. To take a Galah as a pet is not something that should be undertaken lightly as they bond socially with their owners and may very well outlive them. They will often become a little unpredictable as they mature and require training in order to integrate them into the family as a well-behaved "members of the flock." They are extremely playful and intelligent birds that need constant stimulation: interaction, toys, branches to chew on. They are not generally noisy, apart from early morning and evening. Both sexes can become good talkers; however, their talking ability is not usually on a par with either Sulphur-crested Cockatoos or the Corellas.

Galah is also derogatory Australian slang, synonymous with 'fool' or 'idiot'. Inquiries of Australian contrymen in the '70's suggest that this is a misunderstanding. Galahs are very self-confident and have a great zest for life, and are not embarrassed by anything they may care to do or be caught doing (unlike cats). It is very common to see them hanging by one leg from telephone or power lines in a rainstorm getting soaking wet and screeching with delight. There are many reports of them tobogganing down the corrugated roofs of outback buildings.

Citron-Crested Cockatoo birds

2015-06-20T08:04:00.001-07:00

Citron-Crested Cockatoo birds

Scientific Name: Cacatua sulphurea citrinocristata

Size: 15 inches

Native Region: Indonesia's Lesser Sunda Islands and Sumba

Life Expectancy: 50 to 60 years

Noise Level: Quiet; occasional honk/screech

Talk/Trick Ability: Low talking ability; excellent trick ability

raits: Unlike many other cockatoo species, citron-crested cockatoos are generally very quiet. They are friendly, sociable and curious and become very attached to their owners. Trade of citron-crested cockatoos bred in captivity is permitted. Each bird must be sold with an official CITES certificate to prove that it was bred in captivity, and not wild caught. They will raise their crest feathers in display or when surprised. When hand-reared, this species of cockatoo makes an extremely sweet pet. Although their speaking ability is limited, they enjoy learning tricks and can be easily trained.

Behavior/Health Concerns: Like most cockatoos, citron-crested cockatoos need to chew, so they should be given plenty of appropriate chew toys. Until they are about 3 years old, citron-crested cockatoos can tend to be a bit nervous, but with positive training and reinforcement, they can become sweet-tempered. Their droppings are semi-solid and can be messy.

Expert Advice

"Citron-crested cockatoos want nothing more than to be attached to their owner. They love to play with toys and can learn tricks very easily, and they are not like other cockatoos as they rarely scream; you would never know that they are in the house."

Size:

Most Citron Cockatoos are between 13 and 15 inches in length from the beak to the tip of the tail feathers.

Average Lifespan:

Up to 50 years in captivity.

Temperament:

Citron Cockatoos are known to be quieter than most Cockatoo species, but they have big personalities and they love to play and interact with their owners.

Inquisitive and affectionate, a Citron Cockatoo will want to be by your side as often as possible, so they are recommended for bird owners who have plenty of free time to spend with their pets.

Colors:

Citron Cockatoos are mostly white, with pale orange patches on their cheeks, pale yellow on the undersides of their wings and tail feathers, and a bright orange crest. They have dark gray feet and grayish-black beaks.

Feeding:

Like all Cockatoos, Citron Cockatoos are prone to weight gain, so owners should monitor their fat intake. A healthy diet for a pet Citron Cockatoo should consist of high quality pellets, a moderate amount of seed mix, and daily helpings of fresh bird-safe fruits and vegetables.

Exercise:

All parrots need exercise, and the Citron Cockatoo is no exception. Those who own Citron Cockatoos should allow their birds a minimum of 3-4 hours outside of the cage per day, so that the bird can play and stretch its muscles. Cockatoos have strong beaks and jaws, so it's important to provide plenty of safe chew toys for them to exercise their jaw muscles on.

If you want to own a Citron Cockatoo, the first thing you should do is make sure that you have enough spare time to spend with it. Citron Cockatoos are very social, and they require a lot of interaction in order to maintain their emotional health. Citrons that are neglected may resort to screaming and destructive behavior, so it's important that owners invest as much time as possible into their pets.

While Citrons are among the smaller Cockatoo species, they still need plenty of space to live in. The minimum cage size for a Citron Cockatoo is 4 ft. x 4 ft. x 4 ft., and bigger is always better.

Citron Cockatoos may not be the best choice for those who live in apartments or condominiums. While they are known to be quieter than other Cockatoo species, they are still capable of loud screams and vocalizations that may not be appreciated by nearby neighbors.

Before you buy a Citron Cockatoo, contact local breeders to see if you can spend some time with them and their birds. Getting to know someone that has experience raising Citron Cockatoos will help you decide if they are the right bird for you.

Umbrella Cockatoo

2015-06-19T09:01:00.000-07:00

Umbrella Cockatoo

The umbrella cockatoo, also known as the white cockatoo or the great white-crested cockatoo, is well-known in bird circles as being one of the most affectionate and affable companion birds widely available on the market today. An Indonesian native, the umbrella is slightly smaller than the Moluccan cockatoo, but is not smaller in personality or charm. This out-going cockatoo is infamous for its outlandish antics and for being clingy with its owners.

The umbrella can be distinguished from other white cockatoos by its wholly white crest that raises like an umbrella when the bird is excited, agitated, or ready to play (or bite!). Both the beak and legs are a dark gray, and the feathers on the undersides of the wings and tail are light yellow.

Native Region / Natural Habitat

The umbrella cockatoo is native to the islands of Indonesia, where it lives in tropical rainforest.

Personality & Behavior

The umbrella cockatoo certainly makes a charming, affectionate pet, but it’s not for everyone. This bird can be as fickle as the weather, playing one minute and screaming and nipping the next. Birds will be birds, with all of their quirks and caprices, and umbrellas are no exception, though the informed umbrella owner is fortunate to live with this extraordinary bird that was named after something ordinary—and indispensable.

The umbrella desires nothing more than to cuddle with the object of its desire, and can become overly attached to other birds or objects in the pet shop, leading to serious disappointment when these birds or objects are sold—these birds are extremely sentimental! In the wild, the umbrella is never without a companion, and the captive umbrella has the same instinctual patterning to bond to a mate, or at least to have a special friend. The best way to make an umbrella cockatoo unhappy is to keep it in isolation.

Speech & Sounds

The noise level of this bird is extremely high. It is prone to bouts of loud screaming, especially if it is isolated, locked in a cage, or doesn’t get its way. Screaming is often a measure of the bird’s displeasure—the louder the more significant the disapproval of its circumstances. Many cockatoos are re-homed because of their superior voices. On the up side, the umbrella can be taught to talk and may acquire a vocabulary of more than 50 words, though most will not learn that many. Often, a bird that learns to talk may substitute screaming for talking—but not all of the time.

Care & Feeding

The umbrella cockatoo is a long-term commitment for an owner—this species can live up to 70 years with proper care and attention. Unfortunately, many of these sensitive birds don’t live that long. They are prone to self-mutilation and the infections that result from that abnormal behavior.

Because this bird is large and hates being confined to the point of chewing and picking out its feathers, it requires a large space to live in, preferably an enormous, well-build cage with a top that opens into a playstand. An umbrella can’t live happily in a small space, and will become weary and apathetic or agitated and aggressive if confined.

The umbrella cockatoo owner should have experience with parrots before taking on this feathered handful. This is not a good first bird, nor is a good child’s pet. The umbrella also tends to become spoiled very easily, and will not take well to changes in routine, or additions to the family, such as an infant or new puppy.

Food for cockatoos should be nutritious, but should also include a foraging element as well. Cockatoos are fun-loving, intelligent and energetic parrots, and their food should reflect those traits. Wild cockatoos forage all day for seeds and nuts, as well as coconuts and grain crops. Like all companion parrots, cockatoos do not thrive on birdseed alone. Cockatoo food shouldn’t be boring to eat, either, and will love foods like Avi-Cakes, Nutri-Meals, Pellet-Berries, Nutri-Berries, and Lafeber’s Premium Daily Diet Pellets.

Another serious consideration for a new owner is the powder dust that these cockatoos emit, which can irritate those owners with sensitive respiratory systems or allergies. Use air purifiers if you have room for them, as these items help to cut down on the dust. Regular bathing with clear, warm water will also help.

Health & Common Conditions

Umbrella cockatoos are prone to picking at or pulling out their feathers is not offered sufficient mental stimulation. Other diseases/conditions found in cockatoos include psittacine beak and feather disease (PBFD), fatty liver disease and obesity if fed a diet too high in fat.

Get an Umbrella Cockatoo

Umbrella cockatoos are available from avian-only retail stores, from bird breeders and are also available for adoption from avian rescue organizations. This is a bird for an experienced bird owner who can meet the bird’s housing and emotional needs. Ideally, a new cockatoo owner should work with an experienced cockatoo breeder and/or avian behaviorist early on to set a cockatoo up for success as a companion pet.

Moluccan Cockatoo

2015-06-19T08:52:00.003-07:00

Moluccan Cockatoo

The Moluccan cockatoo is a favorite among bird fanciers due to its striking appearance and wonderful temperament. Moluccans are also called salmon-crested cockatoos because of the salmon-pink feathers that comprise most of their head crest, which they will display when they are excited, angry, afraid, or thrilled with something.

The Moluccan is a large bird, one of the largest white cockatoo species, but can range in size, reportedly because the region in which they are found in the wild is large enough to support sub species. The Moluccan cockatoo is a rosy-pink color, with the depth of the pinkness varying per individual. The feet and beak are black, but are generally covered with powder down, which make them look gray – don’t worry, this is absolutely healthy.

Native Region / Natural Habitat

Moluccan cockatoos are native to the south Moluccas and eastern Indonesia. The live in lowland forests and their wild diet includes seed, fruit, nuts as well as insects.

Personality & Behavior

Moluccans would like nothing more than to be sewn to your body 24 hours a day. They crave attention and love, and can become pests because of this trait. They are not very good at “playing alone” and will constantly vie for your attention. If you have the attention to give, great – you will have a happy bird. They are the perfect bird for a shut-in, or someone who is home much of the day. All they want is to be held and cuddled all the time.

Like most cockatoos, Moluccans are incredibly sensitive and can become neurotic and upset when they are neglected. They are prone to self-mutilation due to this sensitivity, and they hate confinement—the owner of a Moluccan had better provide for a lot of out-of-cage time daily. A large play gym, or even a habitat-type enclosure would suit a Moluccan well. Moluccans are quite destructive, so be prepared to replace the play gym and perches often—and never let a Moluccan near your furniture.

Moluccans are not known biters, but they have very powerful beaks, and care should be taken around small children. Remember, even though your bird is sweet as honey (and Moluccans are), if it has a mouth, it can bite.

Speech & Sounds

In terms of noise, the Moluccan cockatoo can out-volume and out-yell any other bird. They seem to scream for no reason, whether they are happy or afraid, and even in the middle of the night! Because of their loud voice, they seem to be given away or become neglected more than any other species of bird—it takes a very special household (and special neighbors) to be able to live peacefully with a Moluccan. They are not known to be great talkers, but they will mimic a few words—actually, they will be more likely to yell them. But talking is not why people love Moluccan cockatoos — this bird is most prized for its affectionate nature.

Care & Feeding

House your Moluccan in the largest cage you can afford because they are large birds and need a lot of space. The cage also needs to be sturdy enough to prevent a Moluccan cockatoo from destroying it. These are very social animals, and get along well with each other, so if you are not home often, you may want to consider getting two. This should not affect their pet quality. However, nesting Moluccan cockatoos are notorious for killing their mates—they are known for bird-on-bird aggression in a breeding situation.

Health & Common Conditions

Moluccan cockatoos are prone to picking at or pulling out their feathers is not offered sufficient mental stimulation. Other diseases/conditions found in cockatoos include psittacine beak and feather disease (PBFD), fatty liver disease and obesity if fed a diet too high in fat.

Get a Moluccan Cockatoo

Moluccan Cockatoos are typically available in avian-specialty stores and through bird breeders. They are also often available for adoption through avian rescue organizations. This is a bird more for an experienced bird owner who is up for the challenge of a demanding but equally affectionate bird. Ideally, a new cockatoo owner should work with an experienced cockatoo breeder and/or avian behaviorist early on to set a cockatoo up for success as a companion pet.

Goffin's Cockatoo birds

2015-06-19T08:39:00.000-07:00

Goffin's Cockatoo birds

cientific Name: Cacatua goffiniana

Size: 9 to 12 inches

Native Region: Tanimbar Islands, Indonesia

Life Expectancy: 40-plus years

Noise Level: Moderate

Talk/Trick Ability: Good

Traits: Goffin's cockatoos are quieter than many other cockatoo species, but they need plenty of attention to avoid screeching when bored. This very intelligent species often learns how to unlock cage doors; they are known to be escape artists. Goffin's cockatoos are climbers and while they are not known to be exceptional talkers, they can learn to say quite a few words. They also enjoy music and love to dance

Behavior/Health Concerns: Goffin's cockatoos are playful, so they need a variety of toys. The can also help prevent boredom, and destructive behaviors like feather-picking. Although smaller than other cockatoo species, they are very active and need large pet bird cages so they have plenty of room to climb and play.

Expert Advice

"Hand-reared Goffin's cockatoos make good pets, but [without proper socialization, they can be] restless, destructive and independent and do not do well in confinement. They can learn a few words and tricks."

Goffin’s cockatoos are not shy birds. Like a typical cockatoo, most enjoy being held and petted, and are friendly and sociable. Goffin’s can also be a bit mischievous and are quick learners. Don’t be surprised to find that your Goffin’s cockatoo quickly learns to open the cage after seeing you unlatch the lock.

Also called the Tanimbar corella, the Goffin’s cockatoo is the smallest of the white cockatoos, and are about 12 inches long from head to tail. It is most likely to be mistaken for a bare-eyed cockatoo (or little corella) because of their similar appearance.

Goffin’s are mainly white with salmon-colored feathers around the eyes and beak, and the deeper feathers in the crest and around the neck are also salmon colored. The undersides of the Goffin’s wing and tail feathers have a yellowish tinge.

Native Region / Natural Habitat

Goffin’s are native to the forests of Yamdena, Larat and Selaru, all islands in the Tanimbar Islands archipelago in Indonesia.

Personality & Behavior

Goffin’s cockatoos are highly intelligent and especially good at figuring out how to unlock cage doors. In fact, a 2013 Oxford University study showed that Goffin’s can solve complex mechanical problems by undoing a series of locks one after another. Ten untrained Goffin’s cockatoos faced a puzzle box showing a nut behind a transparent door, which was secured by a series of five interlocking devices. To reach the nut, the cockatoos had to first remove a pin, then a screw, then a bolt, then turn a wheel 90 degrees, and then shift a latch sideways. One Goffin’s figured out the locks in under two hours without any help; many of the other cockatoos solved the problem with a little help or watching another cockatoo do it.

Speech & Sounds

The Goffin’s cockatoo has a reputation as a “quieter cockatoo,” however, that’s not to say that a Goffin’s won’t screech, especially if he wants your attention. Although not a top talker, a Goffin’s might learn a fair share of words and phrases. Like many other cockatoos, Goffin’s tend to love dancing to music.

Care & Feeding

A Goffin’s cockatoo needs a well-constructed cage to not only prevent it from escaping but to prevent the bird from destroying it. A Goffin’s might be smaller than other cockatoos but this little ‘too is quite active and needs a spacious cage to climb about. A pet Goffin’s needs a steady supply of toys and appropriate items to chew and destroy. A Goffin’s needs toys that challenge, such as puzzle toys and those that involve taking things apart or undoing knots.

Cockatoos, including Goffin’s, tend to be more needy than other pet parrot species and an owner should set boundaries early on, otherwise the bird might scream for attention. A cockatoo new to the home should not be showered with non-stop attention, but rather given toys and other enrichment opportunities as well as intermittent attention so that the bird learns to keep itself entertained when the people in its life are not able to offer one-on-one time.

Food for cockatoos should be nutritious, but should also include a foraging element as well. Cockatoos are fun-loving, intelligent and energetic parrots, and their food should reflect those traits. Wild cockatoos forage all day for seeds and nuts, as well as coconuts and grain crops. Like all companion parrots, cockatoos do not thrive on birdseed alone. Cockatoo food shouldn’t be boring to eat, either,nd will love foods like Avi-Cakes, Nutri-Meals, Pellet-Berries, Nutri-Berries, and Lafeber’s Premium Daily Diet Pellets.

Health & Common Conditions

Cockatoos are prone to picking at or pulling out their feathers is not offered sufficient mental stimulation. Other diseases/conditions found in cockatoos include psittacine beak and feather disease (PBFD), fatty liver disease and obesity if fed a diet too high in fat.

Get A Goffin's Cockatoo

Goffin’s cockatoos are available from avian-specialty stores, bird breeders as well as for adoption from bird rescue organizations. Cockatoos are often given up for adoption due to behavior issues, which makes this a bird that needs to be fully researched and carefully considered. Ideally, a new cockatoo owner should work with an experienced cockatoo breeder and/or avian behaviorist early on to set a cockatoo up for success as a companion pet.

Sulphur-Crested Cockatoo birds

2015-06-18T06:43:00.000-07:00

Sulphur-Crested Cockatoo birds

Traits: Sulpher-crested cockatoos sociable and playful. They are also demanding birds that need plenty of interaction and cuddle time. They are smart and known for solving puzzles and other games. Sulphur-crested cockatoos can be more independent than other cockatoo species, so get to know your bird’s likes and dislikes. Adult breeder birds of this species are more aloof than those that are hand-raised. Hand-raised babies make the best pets because they develop a more playful attitude and are not demanding pet birds if given enough to do. The larger sulphur-crested cockatoos need more time devoted to training and socializing so that bad behaviors do not develop. To keep these pet birds happy, they need at least one hour of playtime a day as well as exercise time with their owner and several more hours of supervised out-of-the-cage time.

Behavior/Health Concerns: A stressful household or a lack of the appropriate amount of human interaction can cause bad behavior in these somewhat high-strung pet birds. Sulpher-crested cockatoos also need a range of activities to keep them busy when they are not interacting with humans. If they are not given adequate chewing toys, they will find household items to chew. While these pet birds need attention and time with humans, they must also learn how to be independent and not become accustomed to an excessive amount of human attention. This pet bird does best in a home where it is the only bird. Sulpher-crested cockatoos can become territorial once they have matured and they are often destructive chewers. Without enough mental and physical stimulation, they can resort to destructive behaviors such as feather picking. They are susceptible to psittacine beak and feather disease (PBFD), fatty liver disease, obesity and bumblefoot. Sulpher-crested cockatoos are known to be dusty birds, and which is a concern for those with allergies.

Scientific Name: Cacatua galerita; (Cacatua sulphurea — lesser)

Size: Medium; Lesser — up to 13 inches; Greater — up to 20 inches

Native Region: Australia, New Guinea

Life Expectancy: 65 years

Noise Level: Loud

Talk/Trick Ability: Moderate

Sulphur Crested Cockatoos Bird:

Sulphur-crested cockatoos are very intelligent but at the same time are noisy and conspicuous. Sulphurs become wonderful pets as they share a strong bond with their owners. Cockatoos are extraordinarily playful and highly energetic birds. The important point to be considered while purchasing a cockatoo is that they are highly social creatures and so they demand a significant amount of your time and attention. When deprived of affection, cockatoos will become depressed or may exhibit other behavioural problems.

This little bird will live a long healthy life if they are given an ideal caging environment and well-rounded nutrition, apart from your time. They also need plenty of exercise and space to play .The Sulphur Crested Cockatoo makes an exceptional pet as it is capable of learning speech.

Here are some guidelines to provide the best environment and promote good cockatoo behaviour:

The first thing which you must consider is to have a large cage for your bird to do lot of wing flapping without striking the cage bars. Also they need toys to chew on and play with inside the cage.

You must position the cage in a room which gets visited frequently by the family members as they are very social and inquisitive. Look for a corner which gets plenty of sunlight (to help in the development of Vitamin K) and maintain it at eye level as this will keep your cockatoo happy.

Your cockatoo must have a weekly shower. This helps reduce the feather dust and keeps it clean.

You must clean the cage every week but remove the soiled papers almost every day. Provide them fresh fruits, vegetables and water to keep them healthy and happy.

Your cockatoo’s diet should basically be organic and high quality pellets .This diet should also be supplemented with fresh fruits and vegetables daily. Occasionally human foods like chicken, fish, rice, and tofu can also be served to your bird but do ensure that the food is not too hot.

You must avoid giving highly seasoned and fatty processed meats to your Sulphur Crested Cockatoo as this may lead to fatty liver disease or other avian medical conditions.

You must scrub the food and water dishes daily with hot water before placing them into the cage to maintain a healthy environment

You must avoid giving chocolate and caffeine and smoking or using aerosols near the bird as these are very toxic to cockatoos.

It is ideal to have two pet cockatoos in case you cannot commit sufficient time for your pet. The charming avian companions will help each other fight the boredom rather than picking up habits like screaming and feather plucking.

You must provide your pet with a range of activities like bird ladders, swings, ropes, fresh branches for chewing, and rotate bird toys frequently. Also allow them to stay outside the cage for 1-2 hours per day to maintain the physical and psychological balance of this bird.

Distribution / Range

The Sulphur-crested Cockatoo is a common inhabitant of open woodland and forest areas along the east coast of Australia, extending along the northern coast and across the seas into Papua New Guinea.

These birds range throughout the various climates in Australia, from Far North Queensland beyond the Iron Range Mountains, as well as parts of the Snowy Mountains. They are also numerous in Adelaide and Southern South Australia. The nominate Sulphur-crested Cockatoos have been introduced to Perth, which is far outside their natural range.

Outside Australia, these parrots have been introduced to Singapore, where their numbers have been estimated to be between 500 and 2000. They have also been introduced to Palau and New Zealand. In New Zealand the introduced populations may number less than 1000.

They have also been recorded from various islands in Wallacea (such as Kai Islands and Ambon).

Vocalizations: It also has a loud voice, and in captivity is a capable mimic. Their loud calls are meant to travel through the forest environments in which they live, including tropical and subtropical rainforests.

These birds are naturally curious creatures, as well as very intelligent.

These parrots produce a very fine powder to waterproof themselves instead of oil as many other creatures do.

These birds are very long-lived, and can live upwards of 70 years in captivity, although they only live to about 20–40 years in the wild.

Reproduction

Breeding Season

Cockatoos only breed once a year - usually between December and March, when vegetation growth is at its peak and food is readily available.

Courtship and Mating

Once a male is accepted by the femael, they will be observed preening each other's heads and scratching each other around the tail. This serves to strengthen their pair bond. Eventually, the male will mount the female and perform the actual act of mating by joining of the cloacae. Generally, this ritual is much shorter for bonded pairs, and the female may even approach the male. When the time comes to nest, pairs leave their group and search for a suitable nesting site - which is usually a tree cavity.

Cockatoos form a close bond that lasts for a lifetime. If they are separated, they may slip into a deep depression. In absence of a "true" mate, they may accept a caretaker as its mate.

Diet / Feeding

They also eat large insects, such as crickets (order Orthoptera) and skinks.

Behavior

Their distinctive raucous call can be very loud.

These parrots have been known to engage in geophagy, the process of eating clay to detoxify their food.

The Sulphur-crested Cockatoo is a seasonal breeder in Australia, little is known about its breeding behaviour in New Guinea. In southern Australia the breeding season is from August to January, whereas in northern Australia the season is from May to September. The nest is a bed of woodchips in a hollow in a tree. Like many other parrots it competes with others of its species and with other species on nesting sites. Two to three eggs are laid and incubation lasts between 25-27 days. Both parents incubate the eggs and raise the nestlings. The nestling period is between 9 to 12 weeks, and the young fledgelings remain with their parents for a number of months after fledging.

Sulphur-crested as Pets:

These beautiful parrots are frequently sought as companion birds, but as they are demanding pets, they require a devoted owner and continuing obedience training from a young age.

Training and Behavioral Guidance:

Talking: Katie from Texarkana, Texas wrote: "I have a 34 yr old male Fitzroy Greater Sulphur Crested cockatoo that is a fair talker. He doesn't talk as well as the blue front amazon, but he does have a vocabulary. He mimics more than anything: the dog, the car, my laugh, the phone."

Ducorp's Cockatoo

2015-06-18T06:26:00.000-07:00

Ducorp's Cockatoo Species Profile

Traits: This species is very intelligent and, particularly when hand-raised, makes an affectionate, entertaining pet. Ducorp's cockatoos can learn a fewwords or phrases, and although this species is reported to be slightly more independent than many other cockatoo species, they still need a great deal of time and attention in order to thrive. Everything is a toy to them, and they can be very playful and active.

Behavior/Health Concerns: After being weaned, the Ducorp's cockatoo tends to have a “baby cry” for another couple of months, after which point the crying stops. These cockatoos have a need to chew, so they should be given plenty of healthy and permissible chewing opportunities. Consistent, continuing behavior training helps to keep this species from engaging in destructive behavior, such as screaming or feather picking.

The Ducorps' Cockatoo (Cacatua ducorpsii) is endemic to the Solomon Islands where it is common across most of the Solomons, absent only from Makira in the south. It inhabits lowland rainforests, secondary forests, cleared areas and gardens.

Description:

The Ducorp's Cockatoo is larger than the Goffin's Cockatoo but smaller than the Umbrella Cockatoo. Notable features of this cockatoo include a blue eye ring and a recumbent crest which resembles a sail in its raised state.

The Ducorp's Cockatoo as Pet:

The Ducorp's Cockatoo is reported to be intelligent and playful. They are quieter than most Cockatoos and make sweet pets given a right environment that takes into account their need for plenty of companionship / interaction and mental stimulation. Even though they are smaller than most other cockatoos (not as small as the Goffin's Cockatoo though), they are very active and need roomy cages and lots of toys.

Description:

Ducorp's Cockatoos grow to about 13 inches in length. Notable features of this cockatoo include a blue eye ring and a recumbent crest which resembles a sail in its raised state. They have predominantly white plumage although sometimes the hidden bases of the head and breast feathers have a carnation pink base. Their crests are round and very broad. Ducorp's Cockatoos have pale yellow undersides to their wings and tails. Their feet are gray and their bills are grayish-white. Males have dark brown or black irises, while females have more red coloration in their irises.

Breeding:

Ducorp's Cockatoos are quite rare in aviculture. Breeding pairs need an aviary of at least 12 x 6 x 6 feet in dimension.

Taxonomy:

Genus: English: White Black-billed Cockatoos ... Dutch: Wit and Zwartsnavelkakatoes ... German: Eigentliche Kakadus ... French: Cacatoès

Species: Scientific: Cacatua ducorpsii aka Plyctolophus ... English: Ducorp's Cockatoos, Solomon Island Cockatoos ... Dutch: Ducorps Kakatoe, Salomon Kakatoe ... German: Salomonenkakadu, Ducorps' Kakadu... French: Cacatoès de Ducorps

Common Foods that Can Poison Your Bird

2015-06-15T07:00:00.000-07:00

Common Foods that Can Poison Your Bird

1. Chocolate

Chocolate is a wonderful treat to share with human family members, but it can be harmful or fatal to your pet bird. Chocolate poisoning first affects a bird's digestive system, causing vomiting and diarrhea. As the condition progresses, the bird's central nervous system is affected, first causing seizures and eventually death.

2. Apple Seeds

Believe it or not, apples - along with other members of the rose family including cherries, peaches, apricots, and pears - contain trace amounts of Cyanide within their seeds. While the fruit of the apple is fine for your bird, be aware that in addition to the poisonous seeds, there may be pesticides present on the fruit's skin. Be sure to thoroughly cleanse and core any apple pieces that you share with your bird to avoid exposure to these toxins.

3. Avocado

The skin and pit of this popular fruit had been known to cause cardiac distress and eventual heart failure in pet bird species. Although there is some debate to the degree of toxicity of avocados, it is generally advised to adopt a "better safe than sorry" attitude toward them and keep guacomole and other avocado products as far away from pet birds as possible.

4. Onions

While the use of limited amounts of onion or garlic powders as flavorings is generally regarded as acceptable, excessive consumption of onions causes vomiting, diarrhea, and a host of other digestive problems. It has been found that prolonged exposure can lead to a blood condition called hemolytic anemia,

5. Alcohol

Although responsible bird owners would never dream of offering their pet an alcoholic drink, there have been instances in which free roaming birds have attained alcohol poisoning through helping themselves to unattended cocktails. Alcohol depresses the organ systems of birds and can be fatal.

6. Mushrooms

Mushrooms are a type of fungus, and have been known to cause digestive upset in companion birds. Caps and stems of some varieties can induce liver failure.

7. Tomato Leaves

Tomatoes, like potatoes and other nightshades, have a tasty fruit that is fine when used as a treat for your bird. The stems, vines, and leaves, however, are highly toxic to your pet. Make sure that any time you offer your bird a tomato treat it has been properly cleaned and sliced, with the green parts removed, so that your bird will avoid exposure to any toxins.

8. Salt

While all living beings need regulated amounts of sodium in their systems, too much salt can lead to a host of health problems in birds, including excessive thirst, dehydration, kidney dysfunction, and death. Be sure to keep watch over the amount of salty foods your bird consumes.

9. Caffiene

Caffinated beverages such as soda, coffee, and tea are popular among people - but allowing your bird to indulge in these drinks can be extremely hazardous. Caffeine causes cardiac malfunction in birds, and is associated with increased heartbeat, arrhythmia, hyperactivity, and cardiac arrest. Share a healthy drink of pure fruit or vegetable juice with your bird instead - this will satisfy both your bird's tastebuds and nutritional requirements.

10. Dried Beans

Cooked beans are a favorite treat of many birds, but raw, dry bean mixes can be extremely harmful to your pet. Uncooked beans contain a poison called hemaglutin which is very toxic to birds. To avoid exposure, make sure to thoroughly cook any beans that you choose to share with your bird.

Tasty & Nutritious Your Bird

2015-06-15T06:56:00.000-07:00

Tasty & Nutritious Your Bird

Many bird diets lack certain vitamins and minerals that birds need, which can lead to a host of serious health conditions.

Feeding your bird a healthy diet does not have to be costly or time consuming. When you feel like your bird deserves a special treat, try serving up one of these cheap and easy options that are packed with taste as well as beneficial nutrients.

1. Fruit

Grapes, oranges, bananas, melons -- just about any kind of fruit imaginable is good for your bird. Full of taste and various vitamins, fruit is a wonderful source of nutrients and is a favorite among the vast majority of pet birds. As with any fresh food you offer your bird, remove and discard any leftovers a couple of hours after serving. This prevents bacteria growth inside of your pet's cage!

2. Beans

Beans, beans, the magical fruit... They're good for you and good for your bird, too! Beans are an outstanding source of protein for your feathered friend. Try boiling a 15 bean soup mix without any seasoning. Allow the beans to cool, and then offer a scoop to your bird. Chances are that this will become a fast favorite with your little friend. Remember to never serve raw beans to your pet, as some varieties can be poisonous unless cooked.

3. Sprouts

Do you like alfalfa sprouts on your salad? Your bird will like them too! Be sure to thoroughly wash any sprouts that you offer your bird. Some may have come into contact with pesticides in their journey from the garden to your local supermarket, and you don't want to pass these toxins on to your pet.

4. Vegetables

Wild birds feast on an amazing variety of vegetables in their natural habitats, so it only makes sense that fresh veggies are good for captive birds as well. Try offering your pet some thoroughly cleansed broccoli, cauliflower, or greens next time you serve these veggies in your home. Other avian favorites include carrots, asparagus, and peas.

5. Pasta

No matter whether it's cooked or uncooked, birds love pasta. The good thing is, it's full of energy enhancing carbohydrates! Try boiling some bowtie pasta with vegetables and serving it to your bird when cool. If your pet prefers his pasta crunchy, fill a few raw macaroni noodles with peanut butter for a fun and tasty snack.

6. Bread

Whole grain breads taste great, and are a wonderful source of fiber. Try offering your pet small bites of bread as a treat for good behavior. Your pet will think he's in hog heaven!

7. Popcorn

Believe it or not, many pet birds enjoy snacking on popcorn! You can serve your bird either popped or unpopped kernels. If you choose to serve the popcorn unpopped, boil the kernels for a bit in plain water to soften the tough hulls. If you desire, you can pop the kernels for your bird using a very light amount of pure vegetable oil. Be sure to never give your bird microwave popcorn. These varieties are extremely high in fat and salt, which can be harmful to your pet's health.

8. Cereal / Grains

Grain farmers often complain when flocks of wild birds descend on their crops to feast. A hungry group of birds can strip a field of grain in no time -- because grains are nutritious, and very good for them! Whole grains are another good source of vital protein, not to mention beneficial carbohydrates. Try serving your bird oats or shredded wheat, and watch the feeding frenzy begin!

9. Nuts

Nuts are extremely high in fat, and should be used sparingly to prevent obesity in your pet. They are, however, very tasty, and many birds appreciate them as special treats. Nuts can be used as exercise toys as well as treats, many birds will spend hours exercising their beak and jaw muscles on the shells of some varieties. Always make sure that any nuts that you serve your bird are clean and unsalted.

10. Peppers

Although many humans have trouble eating spicy peppers, birds can definitely take the heat. It seems that our avian friends lack the taste receptors that pick up on a pepper's stinging bite, which makes them a favorite of birds around the world. Try giving your pet a nice fresh chile or banana pepper and watch him chomp through it to get to the meat and seeds inside. You may find out that you have quite a hot little tamale on your hands!

Bare-Eyed Cockatoos

2015-06-15T06:45:00.001-07:00

Bare-Eyed Cockatoos

Common Names:

Bare-Eyed Cockatoo, Little Corella Cockatoo.

Scientific Name:

Cacatua sanguineat.

Origin:

Australia.

Size:

The Bare-Eyed Cockatoo is normally between 14 and 16 inches long from the beak to the tip of the tailfeathers.

Average Lifespan:

Bare-Eyed Cockatoos can live for up to 50 years, and beyond in some case.

Temperament:

With a reputation for being goofy and clownish, the Bare-Eyed Cockatoo is normally a very social bird that loves to play and interact with its owners.

Intelligent and friendly, Bare-Eyed Cockatoos make excellent pets for experienced bird owners who would like a Cockatoo but don't have the space to keep a larger Cockatoo species.

Colors:

Bare-Eyed Cockatoos are primarily white with touches of salmon-pink on their faces. They have horn colored beaks and bare, gray patches around their eyes.

Feeding:

Cockatoos are prone to weight gain, so they should be fed a diet low in fat. Offer a Bare-Eyed Cockatoo a diet of high quality pellets and a moderate amount of seeds, and supplement it daily with a variety of fresh

Exercise:

Bare-Eyed Cockatoos, like all Cockatoos, need plenty of exercise. If you want a Bare-Eyed Cockatoo, you should make sure that you have time to give it a minimum of 3-4 hours supervised out-of-cage playtime each day. On top of needing a chance to exercise and stretch their wings, Bare-Eyed Cockatoos are very social birds that need this daily time with their owners in order to successfully thrive.

Bare-Eyed Cockatoos as Pets:

The Bare-Eyed Cockatoos may not be the prettiest parrots in the world, but they more than make up for it in personality. Sweet, playful, and intelligent, Bare-Eyed Cockatoos are becoming more and more popular as pets in the homes of bird lovers everywhere.

Smaller than most other Cockatoo Species, Bare-Eyed Cockatoos are a great choice for bird owners that want the personality of a larger parrot, but don't have the space to accommodate one. A cage as small as 2.5 ft. x 3 ft. x 3 ft. will house a Bare-Eyed Cockatoo comfortably, as long as they are given the required minimum 3-4 hours outside of their cage every day.

If you're looking for a bird that will be your constant companion, then a Bare-Eyed Cockatoo may be the right bird for you. These birds crave social interaction with their owners, and can resort to destructive behaviors if they feel neglected. Make sure that you have plenty of time to spend with your new bird before bringing a Bare-Eyed Cockatoo into your home.

If you think a Bare-Eyed Cockatoo might be right for you, contact local breeders to see if you can visit their birds. Ask the breeders what they know about the species, and how they take care of their own birds. Doing plenty of research will help make sure that you find the best bird for your family.

Most Affectionate Parrot?

2015-06-14T07:17:00.000-07:00

Most Affectionate Parrot?

Cockatoos Have the Rep

Out of all the many types of parrots in the world, cockatoos have the reputation for being the most affectionate. They enjoy being held and like to cuddle with their humans. Cockatoos are so loyal and loving it sometimes might seem that they act less like birds and more like dogs. That's not to say that cockatoos will fetch, but you might be able to teach yours to roll over.

Cockatoo Affection Requirements

If you think the ultra-affectionate cockatoo is for you, it's in your and the bird's best interest that you know what to expect. It's true that they are affectionate and snuggly, but they expect the love to flow both ways. To keep your 'too happy, you'll have to schedule daily cuddle time to meet her need to give and receive love. She'll be expected to caress her feathers, scratch her head and even cuddle her like a baby. Be prepared to find yourself being fed by your cockatoo; she'll groom your hair and clothing, as well.

Don't Create a Monster

In their book on exotic pet practice, Mark A. Mitchell and Thomas N. Tully Jr., tell readers that the affection trait that draws many buyers to cockatoo is also often a source of disappointment. The cockatoo's intense need to give and receive affection can overwhelm the owner who isn't prepared for it and doesn't have enough time to give to a cockatoo. Resulting behavior problems turn your docile and loving bird into a demanding, neurotic one. If your lifestyle won't allow for scheduled interaction with your bird, opt for a different type of parrot who doesn't require so much time. And even if you do have the time and decide to adopt a cockatoo, start out spending only the amount of time with her that you realistically have to give. It's tempting to spend every waking moment with a bird who's new to your home; but once the honeymoon is over and your normal life takes over again, your cockatoo's disappointment may develop behavior problems like screaming and feather-plucking as a result.

Other Affectionate Parrots

Plenty of different kinds of parrots enjoy forging a bond with their humans yet won't deteriorate into a feather-picking mess if you end up working late and miss cuddle time. Lovebirds and Senegals are loving parrots who will be happy to be part of the family and don't require the position of center of your universe. Don't overlook budgies or parakeets. They may be smaller than the rest of the parrot family but they are affectionate little guys who enjoy entertaining themselves just as much as they enjoy interacting with their humans.

How to Know If Your Cockatiel Has Broken a Blood Feather

2015-06-14T07:14:00.000-07:00

How to Know If Your Cockatiel Has Broken a Blood Feather

What a Blood Feather Is

Before you can watch out for broken blood feathers, it helps tremendously to know what a blood feather is. Blood feathers are essentially new feathers. All feathers have blood vessels inside the shaft when they first start growing to provide nourishment and help the feather mature. As the feather develops, the blood vessels close off. If you inspect your cockatiel's feathers down near his skin, you can see which ones are still blood feathers because they are the ones that are darker in color, indicating blood inside the quill.

When Blood Feathers Break

Your cockatiel can be a bit clumsy, especially if he's not used to flying or if he has episodes of thrashing about in the night. Even if your cockatiel is uncommonly graceful, he still can break a blood feather if you keep his wings clipped because there won't be as many non-blood feathers to protect and support the ones that are filled with blood. There will be no question when your cockatiel breaks a blood feather; the shaft of the feather acts like a funnel, siphoning blood out of your bird. Sometimes there's a lot of blood flowing, and sometimes you'll just notice drops of blood on your bird or on the walls near his cage.

What to Do

The best thing to do when your cockatiel breaks a blood feather is actually what not to do: don't panic. If your avian vet scared you with stories of birds bleeding to death from a broken blood feather, it was probably an attempt to make you watchful of your cockatiel's physical condition. It's true that a broken blood feather can be dangerous if the bleeding isn't stopped, like with styptic, corn starch or flour or by crimping the end of the feather with a pliers, but once the bleeding has ceased, your cockatiel won't be in a crisis situation. A broken blood feather should be pulled, because once it breaks it is vulnerable to breaking again or opening back up. Your vet can show you how to pull a broken blood feather, but unless you've been trained to do it, you could accidentally harm your bird or make the injury worse. It's best to take your little guy in and have the vet do the dirty work.

Cautions

If you're able to stop the bleeding, an emergency call to the avian vet at 4 a.m. isn't necessary, but don't delay a doctor's appointment for long just because you were able to stop the bleeding. Birds like to have all their feathers just right, and if your cockatiel picks at the broken feather during his regular preening, he could open it back up again. Also, an undiagnosed medical condition such as liver disease can cause bleeding problems with a broken blood feather. Always contact your avian vet if your cockatiel breaks a blood feather, but especially if your little bird is bleeding a lot and seems weak or if his feather broke off beneath the skin.

How do I know when my bird is sick?

2015-06-14T07:07:00.001-07:00

How do I know when my bird is sick?

Tail bobbing, sitting "down on the perch" (crouching over its feet), and sitting on the floor of the cage.

Sneezing, clicking respiration (cough), brown-stained feathers above the nostrils (runny nose), or breathing difficulty occurs.

A change in or loss of voice or song is apparent.

Your cockatiel's behavior changes; it becomes sleepy (eyes closing), less active, and withdrawn.

There is a change in appetite. Loss of appetite or increase appetite.

Your bird drinks more water than normal.

Droppings become loose or change in color.

The number of droppings decreases. Count the number of droppings daily when changing the cage. Fewer droppings may indicate that your cockatiel is not eating well.

Your bird "fluffs up."

A long molt and scratching or picking feathers occurs.

thanks to pets health

Egg Binding

If your female cockatiel is sitting at the bottom of her cage with her feathers puffed out, she could be suffering from egg binding. Egg binding occurs when an egg gets stuck inside her reproductive tract. Further symptoms include a decrease in droppings, or really wet droppings; loss of appetite and depression. The causes include calcium and vitamin D deficiency, or lack of exercise from being in a cage that is too small. Sick or elderly birds are at the highest risk of egg binding.

Polyomavirus

Young cockatiels between the ages of 14 and 56 days are at the greatest risk of contracting polyomavirus. This disease lowers a cockatiel’s immunity, leaving him at risk of catching other diseases and parasites. Among the many symptoms he may display include a swollen belly, loss of appetite, vomiting and depression. Polyomavirus is contracted by contact with other infected birds. Everything from feces to feather dust can carry it.

Malnutrition

A cockatiel who loads up on nothing but seeds, and does not eat a varied and healthy diet including pellets, vegetables and fruit, may develop malnutrition. Malnutrition can lead to a host of health problems brought on by vitamin and calcium deficiency. If you notice his feathers are dull and thin with bare areas, he may be suffering from malnutrition.

Respiratory Infection and Conjunctivitis

If your cockatiel develops red, swollen eyes he may have conjunctivitis. This common ailment is caused by bacteria and frequently accompanies a respiratory infection caused by the Aspergillosis fungus, whose spores cause his air sacs to fill with mucus and affects his windpipes and voice box. Additional symptoms such as a loss of appetite and trouble breathing may also be present.

Psittacosis

Chlamydia psittaci is a bacteria that was discovered at a South American bird show in 1930 when both humans and cockatiels became infected. It is contracted by exposure to (among other things) contaminated droppings and feather dust. It occurs both in the wild and in captivity, and symptoms include diarrhea with watery, yellow-green feces, excessive thirst, and lethargy. Your bird may also have tremors and convulsions.

Avian Veterinarian Care

It is important to recognize any change in your cockatiel's behavior as signs of a possible illness. You may notice that he is down in the dumps and disinterested in his toys, or he may hang his head and have droopy wings. Obvious signs such as a change in his appetite and droppings may indicate illness, but also keep on the lookout for weight loss, dull eyes and a lack of coordination. If you believe your cockatiel is sick, take him to an avian veterinarian immediately for proper treatment.

Cockatiels as Pets

2015-06-14T06:58:00.001-07:00

Cockatiels Pets

Origins: The Australian continent.

Original Species Name: Nymphicus hollandicus.

Average Size: 12 to 14 inches long

Average Weight: From 88 to 178 grams.

Average Life: 16-25 years.

Best Nutrition: variety is the key, fresh veggies and fruits, seeds & pellets.

Vocals: They rather whistling than talking. Males are the best.

Popularity: One of the most popular pet birds in the US.

Sexual Maturity: 12 to 24 months.

Egg Incubation Time: 17 to 24 days

Weaning Age for Chicks: 8 weeks.

Eggs: Average laid 5 to 10

Average cost: $40 to $150

Vet Visits: At least once a year for a full check up

Points of Interest.

Males have great vocal abilities and females are fairly quiet.

Females are more aggressive and they are more likely to hiss and bite.

If you put a mirror in the cage, a female looses its interest faster than a male.

Male cockatiels are better at parenting. While the mothers are responsible for hatching the eggs and caring for the newborn chicks, the male cockatiel doesn’t fly off and abandon them, either. In fact, they are quite protective of their family, and in the wild, will face much larger birds and predators just to keep them safe. They are also nurturing and affectionate with their young. In cases when the mother cockatiel was killed, or injured, the father quite capably steps in and assumes all the parenting duties.

Cockatiels are extremely social birds. They have a need for social interaction. A single bird will get more attached to its keeper but if you are not at home a lot it is best to get two birds. It is a fact that two birds of the same sex get along just as well as a mixed pair. Even more so if the cockatiels were introduced while they are still young.

Cockatiels are among the most popular pet birds. Small parrots with a variety of color patterns and a crest, they are attractive as well as friendly and easy to tame. Because of their small size, cockatiel care and taming is easier than some other parrot species. They are capable of mimicking speech, although they can be difficult to understand. However, they are quite good at whistling and can often be taught to whistle tunes.
Choosing a Bird
It is best to choose a hand fed baby or at least a young bird that has been handled regularly

Prices will vary with color and you can expect to pay a bit more from a conscientious breeder, but a well handled young bird is worth any extra cost. Cockatiels are quite widely available at pet stores, but these birds may have an unknown history. As a result, they may be older, not used to being handled, and harder to tame.

Look for a bird that is bright, alert and active. A bird sitting quietly with puffed feathers might be ill and is best avoided. The feathers should be smooth and shiny and lay down flat on the body. The feathers around the vent/cloaca should be clean, dry, and free of fecal matter. The scales on the feet should be smooth, the nails in good condition, the beak should be smooth and well-shaped, and the nostrils should be clear and clean.

Cages for Cockatiels
Cockatiels are active and playful and should have a large cage. Opinions on the minimum size varies, but a good rule of thumb is at least 20 inches by 20 inches wide, and 26 inches tall as a bare minimum. The spacing on the cage bars should be no more than 3/4 inches (any larger is a safety hazard).
Horizontal cage bars offer the best opportunity for climbing and exercise. There should be space to place at least a couple of perches at different levels with enough space to comfortably move between them. Many cockatiel cages come with a removable bottom tray for easy cleaning.

Feeding Cockatiels
Variety is the key to a healthy diet. Seeds can be a nutritious part of the diet, but are high in fat so should only make up a part of the diet (some experts recommend no more than about 30% of the diet). Pelleted diets are often a good choice for birds as they are nutritionally balanced and birds can't pick out their favorite seeds and leave the rest. However, with both seeds and pellets a wide variety of other foods should complement the diet. A variety of fresh vegetables and fruit should be offered, although persistence might be needed before your bird will try new foods (particularly if they are accustomed to an all-seed diet). Proteins such as hard boiled egg, legumes, and cooked meats can be offered in moderation. Sprouted seeds are also an excellent way to add variety to your bird's diet. Avoid avocado. For more information on feeding, see "Parrot Nutrition 101". If your cockatiel is reluctant to try new foods, you may also want to see "Switching Your Bird to Pellets" and "Introducing New Foods to Picky Birds".

Cockatiel Information:

Life span: cockatiels regularly live 15-20 years with proper care (up to 30 reported).
Colors: wild type is grey body with a yellow face and crest and orange cheek patch. The colors on the face are brighter and more vivid in the male, and the female has bars on the underside of the tail feathers. Color variations include albino, lutino, pied, pearl, cinnamon, and silver. The differences between males and females vary in the different color variations and can sometimes be hard to distinguish, especially in young birds.
Reputation as a gentle and docile bird; often like to be petted and held.
Males are thought to be better at mimicking speech and whistles.
Pairs of birds make good company for each other, but usually will not bond as well with their owners or mimic speech or sounds. A single bird is fine, as long as you spend a significant amount of time interacting with the cockatiel on a daily basis.
Have a powder on their feathers (used in grooming) that may leave a powdery coating on cages and accessories.
Playful and active, and while they vocalize and whistle they are not as loud as some other parrots.