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@vogue_london: Charles Anastase has left breakfast on our seats for us,

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‘Garments are an interesting way of presenting art’- Ramzi Musa

It’s rare that you hear Cinderella fashion stories. Like the one about the designer who created his capsule collection for one of the UK’s biggest e-tailers before he’d even completed his degree. Step forward Ramzi Musa, 21 year old wonderkid artiste and 3rd year Fine Art student at Leeds University. Musa’s first collaborative SS11 collection with Browns Focus hit stores in February and his digitally-inspired designs have been getting fashionistas in a right old spin since. We sat down with the man himself to chat about not studying fashion, graphic novels and loving H&M…

Hi Ramzi, so tell us where you’re from and what you study?

I’m from Kent and am currently studying Fine Art at Leeds. I studied art throughout school, despite many people advising me against it. I’m also really interested in history and psychology, which is

reflected in the Freudian-inspired prints I’m currently working on. Art has always been my passion, though. I immersed myself in it from a young age, selling artwork and gaining knowledge on what people look for. I started viewing it in an unusual way, especially under the teachings of Nick Gorman who I credit for my understanding of the use of colour.

How did the collaboration with Browns Focus happen?

To make money during my first year I started making portraits of people through Facebook. I wanted to create the opposite of the idea of complementing the subject. At the time I was reading a lot of graphic novels like ‘Watchmen’. I hated the idea of the traditional portrait, so they weren’t meant to be flattering; quite the opposite! Browns saw them and it went from there. Then I started

making T-shirt designs and the collection progressed naturally. To me, garments are an interesting way of presenting art. You can put the same image on a garment and in a gallery and it can have a completely different effect. The prints were taken from paintings, water colours and sketches – nothing was completely digital.

Tell us about the collection:

My portrait ‘You want flowers, you got flowers, now eat it’ inspired the collection. It’s fun, vibrant, colourful and brash. In some

ways

the brashness comes from the fact that I’m a guy making a woman’s collection, which is reflected in some of the heavy-handed brush strokes for example. My favourite pieces are those in leopard print; when I was doing it I didn’t labour over it and the pattern works really well, especially on the scarves.

'You want flowers, you got flowers, now eat it’

What inspires you?

People who have the balls to do something new, something that not everyone will like. In terms of design I’m usually inspired by looking closer at things that seem like mundane objects – I tend to always look at things differently.

Is there anyone else you’d like to work with?

I’d like to work with H&M. I like that their clothes aren’t ridiculously expensive. I also love the accessibility of their pieces and the fact that anyone can wear them.

Who is the Ramzi Musa woman?

Someone who is fun, bubbly and confident, but not arrogant. Someone who is young at heart and doesn’t

take themselves too seriously.

What’s the best advice you’ve been given?

It’s not what you mean to do that matters, it’s what you actually do.

Any advice for up and coming designers?

Never shy away from opportunities to show and promote your work, and no matter what reactions you receive, always keep trying. Some people may have thought I was being a show-off or arrogant for being passionate and confident in my work, but it paid off!

What’s next for you?

I’d love to gain more knowledge on the design side of things and eventually start my own label. I’d also love to design

menswear, focusing especially on areas where print works well, such as linings, cravats and scarves.

Words: Jacqueline Anyanwu

Images: Ramzi Musa Art

Having worked for the UK Fashion

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& Textiles Association advising British fashion companies on strategies to expand business for the past 10 years, Maria Alvarez, Executive Director and founding member of Fashion Awareness Direct (FAD) has been helping young people bridge the gap between education and

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industry. We sat down to pick her brain about business, Markus Lupfer and good old-fashioned self promotion.

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designer should know:

With thanks to Maria Alvarez at FAD

Words: Jacqueline Anyanwu

SHOP THIS!

SHOP HERE

1. ‘Tom Ford For Men’ – We all know that sex sells especially when it comes to the fashion and beauty world. I just love how photographer Terry Richardson is able to ‘commercialize’ sexual narrative in his work and is able to translate this into campaign images, which ironically ends up on billboards for the whole world to see.

2. Dutch photographer Erwin Olaf is one of my biggest inspirations, period. His imagery is provocative, conceptual, yet perfectly technically

balanced. This series titled ‘Fashion Victims’, for me, is an exceptionally executed concept. It talks about how we ‘hide’ behind the brands we are wearing, masking our true selves. The rest of the series portray lots of naked models, but I chose this image because YSL is one of my favourite brands…

3.German photographer Armin Morbach shot this editorial for Cosmo Germany. I was pleasantly surprised to see how explicit sexual content and subject (such as latex underwear and Araki bondage) can go hand-in-hand with a high fashion story.

4. An image of my own, shot backstage at the Charlie le Mindu LFW catwalkshow. I love this image for it’s unrestricted power but it transcends the self-confident models:

It’s the look and feel, the animalistic proportions of black girls wearing animal print combined with neon colouring, it just makes me happy looking at it. The image itself was marked as the judges’ (as well as Princess Julia’s) favourite for the Hospitalclub’s ‘I love’ competition: it will be published in their next printed issue.

5. A second image of my own, as part of my series for Dutch magazine, Real. I love this image

for it’s power: The graphic, high-key nature of the image gives it a pop effect, which comes even more alive when printed. I have a blown up 30-inch portrait of it in my studio.

In my work, I am always trying to create a mixture of elements, whether it be sexual undertones, graphic details or media based elements. It is when various aspects work well together that an image becomes truly successful. In this over visualized world we live in, it’s actually a compliment for a

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CV Highlights:

Working with Dutch fashion designer Jessica Joyce to create her editorial lookbook for her New York Fashion Week capsule collection.

Creating the filmcover for documentary ‘Nooit meer laf’ in english: ‘Never a coward again’, the film cover had the main character, a World War fighter, pictured naked, clutching a pistol. It’s one of my photographic highlights to date!

I have just graduated from London College of Fashion with a Masters degree in fashion photography; my final project, entitled ‘Manifesto’, was one of my biggest ever. It’s fashion photography, but constructed with bullet-time animation: It will

be launched online soon, so watch this space!

Working as creative director for Supperclub London, executing concepts in line with Supperclub’s brand identity through commercial photography, art, performance, styling, and set design.

why PHOTOGRAPHY?

I have been photographing for around 5 years now, and my love for this craft keeps on growing. Photography gives me the opportunity to take control, to create a world that actually only exists in my head and allows me to bring it out for the rest of the world to see.

who INSPIRES you?

Viktor & Rolf, I love all of their elaborate catwalk shows, especially the way they execute their concepts.

Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin. Dutch fashion photographer Inez moved to New York in the 80′s to pursue her career on

a higher level: And so she did! Working for the biggest names in the world, the likes of YSL and Lanvin, her career is the perfect inspirational and motivational story.

who would you love to SHOOT, alive or dead?
It may be cliche, but I need to shoot Naomi Campbell. She is an unparalleled icon; I would love to see in front of my lens.

what’s the perfect SOUNDTRACK to shoot to?

Fischerspooner -Invisible
Heiko Voss – Call Me Now
Hercules & The Love Affair- You Belong
LCD Soundsystem- Losing My Edge

what’s your JOURNEY in photography?

Experimental, avant-garde and sexy chic

give us a self-made QUOTE:

‘Without creativity there is nothing’

Giovanni Martins

www.thisisgio.com

Interview: Melissa Carew

Sometimes, love is not a walk in the park…

Photography by Cristine Leone
Art direction and Styling by Melissa Carew

His: Hoodie by Izzue;

Converse

Her: ‘Love’ T-shirt by Izzue; Dress by Bitching & Junkfood;Necklace and Earrings by Culietta;Boots by Office

His: T-Shirt by Izzue

Her: Vintage mohair jacket by Beyond Retro; Silk top by Kumiko Watari; Shorts by TWO WEEKS

His: Jacket and jeans by Snake and Dagger

Her:

Sweater dress by Fam Irvoll; Necklace by FAM/A&C = SANT; Boots as before

His: T-Shirt by Izzue

Shot with Lomography’s The Diana Mini “Love Is In The Air”

“This season I’m wearing new, up-and-coming designers throughout LFW; Liria Pristine, Dimos Natar, Harald Lunde Helgesen and DanDan to name a few. It’s always exciting relaying feedback and the overall buzz about their creations to the unassuming designers, and there’s no better place to showcase their work than at LFW!

Today I’m wearing a gold suit and customised gold and

silver bauble-cuff shirt by Marios Alexander. Marios’ collection is shaped around the idea of the ‘role’ and explores how clown costumes can be transformed in order to create an alternative fashion statement. His metallic colour range reflects the life of the modern man and captures an essence of romanticism.”

8.30am: Hoxton Station

“I’m not sure if it was because of the adrenalin but I got up at 5am! I meet the film crew at Hoxton station and the chiming baubles on my shirt have already caused quite a stir amongst my fellow commuters! I think I’m too eager to get to Somerset house because I depart at Tower Hill – the wrong station!”

9:00am: Somerset House

“I arrive at Somerset House, the fashion mecca! Immediately it’s time for ‘business’ as I’m stopped by photographer Paul Hartnett (of WSGN fame). I have to tell the growing pack of waiting photographers that unfortunately they’ll have to wait until later, or I’ll miss the Paul Costelloe show at 9am!”

11:00am: The Jena.Theo show

“We’re off to the new on/off venue for Jena.Theo. I’m sat front row amongst fashionable friends, and take the opportunity to catch up with stylist Kristine Kilty and bloggers Jenny Hayden

and Reena Rai. Denim and war-paint pieces and elements of 1980’s cinema take over the catwalk for their collection”

1.45pm: The Corrie Nielsen show

“Again I’m sat front row at Corrie Nielsen, last year’s Fashion Fringe winner. From here I get to fully admire the Victorian-inspired theatrics of the show. It’s probably my favourite collection today… give me structured shapes,

volume and an aristocratic mood any day, and I’m pleased!”

4:00pm: Lunch

“A very late lunch with the fash pack. I discuss shows with PR Alize Morand, ASOS buyers and my dear friend Imran Amed (of The Business of Fashion) who is desperately trying to find wireless access – the work never ends! It’s very common to survive solely on Vitamin Water during LFW, so if the food at Tom’s kitchen passes your lips, count yourself very lucky!”

6:30pm: The Bora Asku show

“I received a personal invite from designer and good friend Liria Pristine, who is styling consultant for the show, so I’m very keen to see it. Continuing the Victorian trend, the

collection focuses heavily on men’s tailoring, inspired by Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde!”

7:30pm: The Ashley Isham show – PR Fail!

“Asku runs over, so running late I taxi it to Ashley Isham. I arrive to

a fashion pack (in the literal sense); a hoard of fashionistas desperate to get into the small on/off venue. A friend at the door says they are waiting for Heidi Montag…not impressed! I decide to call it a day and head to the Ada Zandition after party, where I stay for a couple of hours and then head home for some well deserved sleep! The fashion mania starts all over again in the morning…”

He went, he saw, he wore… here are the rest of Matthew’s fabulous London Fashion Week outfits:

Day 2

(Shirt, Waistcoat, Jacket, Jeans and Shoes by HLH Harald Lunde Helgesen)

”Harald continues to impress me with how he always finds new ways to re-invent denim. Where he leads, I will always follow!”

Day 3

(Shirt by Dandan Zhang, jeans: Cos, Shoes: Sanders, Bag: Gianfranco Ferre)

”Ahh, love at first sight! I’d describe DanDan as the ‘new blood’ of this season. The girl is as powerful as her designs- I expect a lot from her.”

Day 4

(Suit and T- Shirt by MariosAlexander, Cardigan and Scarf by DimosNatar, Shoes: Sanders)

”Marios’ suit is the foundation of a great story, where Dimos’ accessories play the colourful main character.”

Day 5

(Jacket by Liria Pristine, Cardigan: Dimos Natar, T-shirt by MariosAlexander, Jeans: Cos, Shoes: Sanders)

”Liria’s meticulous work says it all. If Marios on Day 4 was the story and Dimos the main character, Liria is the title!”

Day 6

(Shirt, Waistcoat and Jacket by MariosAlexander, Jeans: Cos, Shoes: Sanders)

”Perfect cuts, perfect silhouettes, perfect fabrics; Marios’ designs have opened and closed my looks this

London Fashion Week, which says it all.”

Words: Jacqueline Anyanwu

Images: Jaymie Ward

Featured Image and Outfit Shots: Jennifer Inglis

Outfit Shot (Day 5): Frances Davison

WHO: Men’s Ones to Watch: C/Bruerburg, A.Hallucination, Mr Lipop and Asger Juel Larson

WHERE: Vauxhall Fashion Scout @ Freemasons’ Hall

FRONT ROW: Paul Weller, Vogue’s Jessica Bumpus, LFW regular and fashion writer Yu Masui and stylist Richard Pickard

WHAT: First up C/Bruerberg, whose collection had a chic hippie-festival influence – neon green silly string-style headgear and woven tops, muted greys and shiny black tracksuit bottoms and leggings with knitted ponchos. Next, A.Hallucination’s modern take on 70′s suits; doing what they do

best, the collection focused on black,

brown and navy and comprised stunning blazers with knitted sleeves, duffle coats with two-tone colours and white bow ties. Mr Lipop’s collection was a more minimalist take on suits; burgundy-purple, collarless and simply with a low, loose tee underneath. Blazers were also paired with shorts and

brogues (no socks) and coverups came in the form of fur-lined duffle coats and a black leather jacket with a shearling lining. Finally, Asger Juel

Larson presented his gothic collection. A taxidermy headpiece and top hats with black crosses provided a starting point; as the eye scanned down the body we saw a multitude of star prints, leggings with criss-cross corseted string and plenty of leather with zips and chains.

HIGHLIGHT: A gorgeous long white

jumper with lace and transparent panels by C/Bruerberg; A.Hallucination’s duffle-meets-blazer jackets, Mr Lipop’s leather rucksacks with suede pockets and Asger Juel Larson’s finale look – a tophat off which a muted black, brown and navy American flag (quite literally the size of a flag, or perhaps a duvet) cascaded. Sweeping down the runway, this look summed up the washed-up, gothic Americana aesthetic.

QUOTES: Jessica Bumpus told us, “I saw the last guy at the LCF MA show but it was great to see again and

I loved A.Hallucination.”

Words: Katie Rose

Photography: Cristine Leone

C/Bruerburg

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]]> http://blow.sostylistic.com/2011/03/01/lfw-day-6-mens-ones-to-watch/feed/ 0 http://blow.sostylistic.com/2011/02/25/lfw-day-5-fad/ http://blow.sostylistic.com/2011/02/25/lfw-day-5-fad/#comments Thu, 24 Feb 2011 23:01:04 +0000 BLOWonline http://blow.sostylistic.com/?p=4181

2011 FAD Competition winner: Milly Jackson

WHO: FAD

WHERE: Vauxhall Fashion Scout @ Freemasons’ Hall

FRONT ROW: Members of the FAD panel: founder Maria Alvarez de Toledo, Wendy Dagworthy, Head of Fashion and Textiles at the RCA and Whistles CEO Jane Shepherdson.

WHAT: The fifteen finalists of the FAD competition presented their responses to the brief: ‘Escape (from the everyday)’. Each designer presented two looks which had to show an original

interpretation of the brief and could work as a mini

collection in its own right. Our favouite looks from each collection included Annie Vallis’ mountainous prints, muddy

red shorts and translucent trench coat with harness; Emily Booker’s bright knit balaclavas with oversized bobbles; Emma Clifton’s surreal cartoon-esque pieces: a grey jacket with gashes and a dripping blood

jumper with a blue fishscale skirt; Kerri Goulden’s plastic neon jewellery; Qi Zhang’s colour palette of brown-grey and mint-turquoise; Ashleigh Downer’s hook and eye detailing; Lucy Johnson’s hooded brown men’s parka and leaf scarf look; Rachael Brooks’ big peter pan collars and big flouncy clown sleeves and Rachel Copper’s architectural separates; Kay Wilcox’s space-age blue skirt with spikes of silver material jutting out at the hips; Esther Ndongala’s deconstructed kimono-style coat; Milly Jackson’s monochrome Tweedledee and Tweedledum-style dresses, super huge structured skirts and toadstool detail; Shabana Mahomed’s gathered skirts and technicolour panels; Joanna Course Mandle’s fantastic headgear with hair, purple and pink flowers and horns and Laura Carew-Gibson’s tassels and dip-dye-effect neon sunset colours on a black shaggy fur jacket.

HIGHLIGHT: The announcement of the winners – we came over all tingly and emotional! Annie Vallis and Laura Carew-Gibson were runners up with £1000 each and internship placements and Milly Jackson won the grand prize of £2000 and a design placement at Whistles. The best designers were recognised!

QUOTES: Various overheard comments included: “What a fantastic prize”; “how professional!” and “when we were teaching him we were like ‘what’s wrong with him? Is he on drugs or something?’”

Competition winner: Milly Jackson, Nottingham Trent University

1st runner-up Laura-Carew Gibson, DeMontfort University

2nd runner-up Annie Vallis, Nottingham Trent University

The Finalists

Esther Ndongala

Lucy Johnson

Rachael Brooks

Emily Booker

Rachael Capper

Emma Clifton

Kerri Goulden

Ashleigh Downer

Joanna Louise Mandel

Words: Katie Rose