Bobs Shop

2015 propass 200 wireless belt replacement

2026-03-06T07:43:00.008-04:00

10 + years in and it's time to change the conveyor belt.

Not as bad a job as I had anticipated.

I'll rate it as 6 out of 10 for difficulty for golf equipment repairs done in the past.

Top dresser was used for by weekly greens top dressing (weather pending)

and tees a couple of times in season.

Then work hard in the fall after core aeration followed by a heavy closing the greens/tees/approaches up for the winter.

Around 2000 hours.

Working from the left side only on this unite.

Removed all bearing covers and check for bad bearings.

Side shield removed and, in my case, I had to remove the catwalk.

Next back the tension off the belt till it's very loose.

Only the front adjustments, do not move left rear.

Remove the Allen key set screw on bearing collars on both left side bearings.

Raise dump bed up after removing spinner attachment.

On the underside remove the large shield that protects the engine bay.

My shield attachment points had lots of cracking, so I did make up angle sheet steel brackets and drilled holes in them for repair.

You can push up on the belt from underside to access the mid side frame nuts.

Basically, remove every bolt in the red section of the hopper after bearing bolts are removed.

Note .... mark left rear back bearings location before removing those bolts. It will save you a lot of time setting up the new belt.

Front valves cover off next and unbolted the block.

Make note or tag the wire going to button and the other power wire. they are similar.

Disconnect the brains.

Remove the clean out screen.

Yeah, cleaning needs to be addressed.

Or the lack off.

Techs pet peeve is not cleaning after use.

Sometimes jobs don't get completed on the same day when things come up, postponing clean, sometimes for days or weeks.

End result is sometimes sands dried and turn to basically concrete on the underside.

You can see the shield in this pic.

Finally removed this manual tube, so annoying.

Next remove flow adjuster and belt scrapper.

Note all the bolts are one of two size stainless steel Allen head type.

If you have long arms, you can get all of them yourself on the hopper.

Or use a helper and crack the nut side loose first.

Remove adjustment bolts washers nuts etc. Take a picture first so it gets reassembled the same.

NOTE, this front bearing you will have to slide in place before assembly.

Rear bearing mark as per picture below.

Even though adjusting front bearings will make the belt track left or right a bit, this one's really important to get it back where it goes. It will really make the track move left or right quickly.

NOTE, on assembly tighten the bolts on side frame up first before installing adjusters.

I used a sharpy marker and measured the end treads.

After the last two side rail bolts are out and rear bearings off remove side plate along with front bearing.

In my case the nylon blocks all looked great, bearings were all good and rubbers on hopper are still in good condition.

Only needed a belt and belt scraper.

Plus, lots of cleaning, prepping, painting worn areas while waiting on parts (about 2.5 weeks)

I wedged a piece of angle under lift frame and another to hold the rollers steady till parts arrived.

Reassemble in reverse order.

Adjust the front roller evenly take measurements if you like.

Before putting spinners on, run the belt and adjust so it's not tracking left or right with good tension on belt.

Final adjustment will be made this spring with a load of heavy wet sand.

Adjust till belt starts to move.

Done.

NOTE, when reassembling large areas and panels I used and alignment tool to wedge holes for bolts in place and also install all the bolts loosely before tightening up a section.

You shouldn't need it for this one but good luck and have a great season.

Toro wireless 200 spinner adjustment Modification

2026-02-11T09:35:00.000-04:00

We have the wireless 200 for the past ten plus years.

I had to make a rear bumper to protect the spinners from getting hit by equipment, which worked out very well for us.

The only big complaint is the slide adjustments are really hard to work to slide spinners in and out.

Here is what I came up with for the first try.

Just gearing up some scrap materials to figure out the best option.

Decided to go with a single center adjustment.

I drilled a good size hole through the section above and also the next plated section inside.

Next time I wouldn't do this because I figured out it could have been attached to a larger Angle bracket.

Angle bracket I would go with 2" next time. And weld the nut or sleeve to it. has to be a little larger than threaded rod (1/2" stainless was used)

Pass treaded rod through angle iron hole and weld a nut on rod. Weld another nut on the front side leaving a little wiggle room so rod can still turn. That will anchor the spinner slid end.

Weld the bracket in place here.

Using a piece of 1" angle to stiffen that pull rod frame section.

Weld a sturdy anchor section and also drill a large hole and weld nut on bracket when it lined up.

Check for any binding and weld brackets in place.

Don't cut the adjustment rod till you try it in and out to see how much to cut off.

This was my first attempt where this nut needed to be drilled out bigger than rod.

Before welding a T on add another nut so it can act as a lock nut after adjustments are made.

Works pretty well, will see how it does this up coming season.

JD 7500 verticutters to process cores

2025-12-10T18:41:00.002-04:00

As most of you know on the East coast of Canada "if you want fall rain just pull out the aerators "

Having an issue after coring fairways taking way too long to bust them up with just dragging steel mat.

Sand capped fairways with bent grass.

Recycling some material back into the holes.

It's seldom if ever ideal conditions being so late in the season for this process.

This season we reversed the front roller mounts to get more room before the blades, so it doesn't jam them up as often.

Set the groomers to zero. (just touching the shop floor)

Cores were wet and did a pretty good job.

But we can do better, I think.

I know there are rollers out there for this situation but at a great cost.

A little winter project.

Ordered these front deck rollers from Vickers to try.

A little to big so cut them in half.

Beveled the edges on grinder to match other side.

A little heat from the torch to smooth them out.

Decided to go with 5/8' cold rolled steel for a roller shaft.

cut at 25"

Drill the pilot hole first for the 1/4-28 zerk going in later.

Using a smaller drill bit to drill in end shaft as far as I could get it.

and another hole were the end of first hole wound up.

Tapping threads for zerk.

Blew out and installed zerk and passed some grease through.

Drill a 1/8" hole for a roll pin fora stopper.

Using 1/2 washer and holing them out in pairs for ends of rollers.

Turned out great and not as bad as I thought it would be.

Got 2 made today and installed on to see if it will adjust down more.

Turned out great and will open up the area in front of blades for more direct chopping instead of front rollers flattening the whole space.

I'm thinking of doing the rear rollers to and using this set up just for aeration.

Will be a quick flip over to get the back on the regular rollers and set into the turf for our regular in season set up.

I'll update next fall and see how it went either way.

Frankenmower ... cart path grass mower

2025-07-11T19:24:00.002-03:00

During the grow in 10 seasons ago it was getting labor intensive to hand mow and use trimmers to clean up overgrown treelined side cart path edges.

After the second season we dedicated one 7400 A mower for the job to free up staff to do other need tasks on the course.

My idea at the time was to use this machine and save the other 3 units on roller wear and damages.

Last season we traded the unit in and were left to going back to hand mowing, the other 7400 A is now the pre fairway cut machine.

I knew this was coming eventually and had an idea to try something out.

Looking around at my junk pile I managed to take a good engine and deck from different machine to get a base unit started.

Doing a test fit. so far so good. I love our TX gator because of the square trough access in the body I can make attachments to go on the machine.

1.5" square tube stock 1/8 " thick make a good solid bar to attach mower too. Stick a bolt on one end and slide it through the frame.

1.5" angle from some scrape pieces to bolt to deck of mower and a hinge point for mower to be able to follow the ground.

Once I had the angles right, I tacked it all together.

Found out a little bonus was to attach a chain on mower and loop it over the snipper holder bracket so when you lifted the box it would tip mower up off the wheels to change direction. Add a stiffening rod to take some to the play out.

A little early morning try out on the back nine. Did the front 9 the day before.

Worked better than expected.

I mowed the course twice now. blade stayed sharp.

Took 6 hours total and 4 lawn mower tanks of gas.

I'm doing a few upgrades to prevent post hits on the wheels.

Easily comes off in a couple of minutes and takes little space for storage.

If you look closely left of engine is the pull cable to take brake

Some upgraded steel wheels and bolted a guard for rear wheel so if there is a strike it will deflect away without damaging the wheel.

Also have to go at a walk mow speed maybe up to 7-8 miles per hour in good areas.

For obvious reasons I'll be doing cut and will train our best operator too.

To make it safe you would need an electric start engine (tap into gator battery) and operator seat pad switch so if they get of the machine the engine shuts down.

Maybe I'll get lucky and find a roadside giveaway. LOL

Original build was at no new cost to us.

JD 2500E third wheel parallel wheel assist kit

2025-04-23T10:56:00.000-03:00

Getting a new 2500E.

We are going to use one of the old units for tee and approach mowing freeing up 3 staff for other jobs.

Instructions are ok and just follow them in order.

Started of removing the cab for easier access to change rear steering arm.

Lot of parts.

I did preassemble what I could on the roll top.

This plate the instructions don't show where it goes exactly.

Goes on motor mount.

Remove reels for better access and support engine.

Remove bolts and use bolt provided to install plate.

I'm supporting machine on tripods using my lift.

Remove wheel to lighten the load and to have enough room to slide out.

This small Allen headed bolt is slide into the grove to hold steering arm in.

Remove this ram connection and get the other side when steering arm is lowered.

Grease shaft and partially put in place and reconnect steering ram.

Now attach the other end after securing shaft in place with set screw bolt. Use red Loctite on these Allen bolts.

Line up motor and tighten down evenly till its touching.

It was a tight fit. Back nuts off and torque to spec.

Install wheel hub and torque to 150 ft lbs

Start routing hose as per manual.

they should cross over like this.

Two remaining hoses, the longest one will go to right side and attach to left side fitting on steel wheel motor lines.

Caps for connection points.

Took me a few tries to route the hoses to get the least chaffing.

After attaching connection points you can use zip ties in kit to tidy things up.

Mine looks like this.

Looking from behind front lift arm.

Left connection point is the longer hose.

On to wiring.

Remove two bolts to move axillary tank aside to get to grounding access point on back side of bolt shown in manual 15mm wrench nut.

Connect this wire.

The other end attaches on the E type machines on the white connector behind right front wheel.

Remove the rubber plug and install the pin through same connecter.

Zip tie everything up and out of the way so middle deck doesn't hit it.

Bleeding some air out of lines.

Ready for next mow. The coil is only activated when lever is in mow.

Adjusting front and top face from pivot bolts (Bernhard)

2024-11-19T07:47:00.001-04:00

Recently view a you tube video from Trent Manning about measuring from bedbar pivot bolts.

Always wanted to do the same but couldn't figure out an easy way to do it.

This is my version I came up with for my grinder type.

Amazon linear digital gauge.

Not to expensive 50$ Can + -

I'll be using to old mounts for what looks like stone sharpener.

Installed 10 mm bolts.

Drilled out holes in lol near center of bedbar pivot bolts.

Mount to bedbar and then use the holders from grinder.

Gives an accurate area to measure from.

Had a piece of aluminum plate and cut a couple of slices in it to mount gauge.

Test fitting it to a piece of 3/8 rod I had around the shop.

Installed rod then attach plate to it.

It can also adjust in and out If I needed to.

Like this.

Turned out pretty good.

Brand new bedknive I had ground as per grinding instruction to find that this on was of by less than a hair.

Checking to see if by moving it back and forth on rail If the readings stay consistent and they do.

This bracket that came with gauge I just flattened out to attach to the end so I can adjust top or front face by just tipping bracket to the side a bit.

Top face

The add bracket stays on to catch the bedbar pivot bolt in either top or front face grinding

Front ... notice the bracket is tipped to right to catch the pivot bolt.

So now when my leading edge is worn back on top dress days and touching both ends for set up leaves it a bit off I'll be able to set them all up the same and back to the correct front face.

Should be a game changer in this situation for sure

Tine holder spiker I should have had a patten

2024-04-11T04:03:00.004-03:00

Would have been nice to get a little royalty.

Many times, I've seen my ideas and other techs ideas just taken and profited on.

Then tine rack was not my idea, but I've made these many years ago and 4 years ago made it use the actual tine block with heavy rod stock.

2015 Club Car President Lithium ion battery conversion .....wow.

2024-03-27T09:07:00.000-03:00

Trying out a lithium-ion battery conversion on one of the Club cars.

Due to lack of Maintenace at the cart barn we have been going through many batteries.

There has to be a better way.

In the past Lithium-ion was out of the question ...that and having to buy a charger wasn't a viable idea.

Seen a conversion kit on - line that battery Advancement is getting into.

Emailed for more info and Jim got back to me right away.

Once the price point was figured out and approval from the club, we went ahead with a test purchase.

Excluding shipping and re-program download it was nearly the same as the lead acid batteries.

No brainer for me.

No issues dealing with Battery Advancement in Calgary they are on the ball and helpful.

This little guy has the same power as 6 lead acid batteries.

I was shocked, for some reason thought there were going to be 3 of them.

Decided on this location to keep it centered/passenger side.

The carts going to be 350 pounds lighter too now.

No brackets but I'm thinking of reusing this hold down.

The hardest part for me was to get the program on a blank USB.

I'm ok but not great with computer stuff lol.

Going to be a lot of room left over.

I'm thinking of installing the charger inside here too.

Update later after install.

Figuring out how to support the other end of bracket.

Extended the ground with the short left-over wiring.

Visage still working the same, even registered the battery %.

re programing eric charger.

Downloaded the app so I can see that the charger was working.

Using some 2x4 that was kicking around I made a support for hold down.

Notched out for bracket to sit in.

Nicely wedged in battery box.

It's not going to move.

Solid

You don't need to use an App, you can check it here on the battery if you like.

Drove the entire 18 hole nonstop and its 3C out here.

Pretty impressed.

light on the turns and wheel might spin a little.

Maredo speed core GT230 bearing rebuild.

2023-12-03T19:51:00.005-04:00

Well used here.

Great for a little relief in the summer.

Solids are fast an easy.

Throwing down the sand and then running equipment through it in my opining doesn't make any sense other than creating more work for techs.

Sure, it is visually more appealing.

The aerating equipment and tines get extra wear.

As far as getting more sand in the holes I'd say it's pretty debatable.

Although we do have 3 full seasons on them and have had lots of use.

Reely like the little trollies for them.

First thing to remove.

Then weights.

Reel motor plates.

Plates are interlocking with notches, so they only go back one way.

Lay the parts out in the order removed.

Remove these 3 bearing bolts on both ends.

Next 3 pairs of these bolts.

Light tap and it should slide out easily.

I laid it in front like this.

Remove the drive coupler (in this case), You can take them off either end but I prefer to take them all off on the same side.

Just 3 bolts and nuts.

circlip will release the back half off nut.

A couple of wrenches to remove this nut.

Slide this bearing off and lay all the bits out in order.

The nut holding pinching all the tine holder to shaft I managed to get off this way, Blue Loctite was on this nut.

Spacer bushing slide off.

Put mine in front of frame as I rebuilt them.

Tines are timed so It's very important to mark these as their rebuilt.

They are already marked but I'm going to mark mine as I go.

Like this, mark them where that Allan bolt is near shaft.

Did mine one at a time so it had time to dry.

Removed these three brackets, pay attention they only go on one way. There is a difference.

All these washers were used on inside bearing races, some had 2 most had 1.

I'm thinking they are spacers or shims to keep bearings lined up for better rotation and less wear.

All the bearings by my thumb (upper one) were worn out.

Pay attention to tine orientation and also the bearing plates.

If you put them back wrong, you may make a lot more work for yourself never mind the damage they will do.

Remove the 2 nuts holding tine block on.

Set everything down the way it comes off.

This notch face down on tabletop before assembling on shaft.

Some spray 9 and water made quick cleanup work.

Remove Allan head bolts and nuts.

The one my middle finger is pointing at is the timing one that need to be facing the mark you made.

Remove the remaining 4 bolts and nuts along with the one bolt holding the separate bearing section.

Set the bearing a side as a separate rebuild piece.

Lay parts out for later.

After doing a few I wound up tearing down to this point then washing parts off.

A few pics of bolt removal below.

Split it in half to expose the bearing and outer race holders.

Think mechano set seems everything interlocks one way.

See how everything is notched.

Outer race holders are the same, they just pull apart.

If you have some bad wear on side plates for some reason you could just flip the plates to the other side.

Here is the part you're looking for.

Give the bearing a good smack on the top edge and the side plate should pop of one side and then tap the other out.

Don't worry about damage to the bearing it's most likely toast.

Out of 3 heads (18 bearings) 3 were good.

Clean the side plates before assembling into a new bearing.

I worked on one half and started with installing tine mounting plate.

Then the outer race framing, be sure to get them in the holes they are tight.

Like so.

Installing bearing side plates.

Allan head bolt was snugged down and made sure both plates where flush on bearing, may need a little tap.

Then back off nut a good turn, makes installing back on shaft a lot easier. You will have to snug it back up once its slid-on shaft.

Pops back in pretty easily.

I installed one bolt here by my thumb to help hold things together till rest get installed.

Installed the other Allen head bolt.

I don't think it makes a difference, but they had the bolts and nuts all facing the same way, so I did the same.

Make sure everything is in its place before tightening up.

Should all sit flush to bearings.

Remove the bolts that hold the bearings in place.

I replaced all the bearings and kept any good ones for a backup in case I needed them.

Also, this bearing was listed wrong in my parts book. IT IS A 6001 2RS bearing.

Not a reel tight fit, this worked great with an inverted socket.

All the bits back together.

VERY IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER THIS NOTCH.

This is what happens on bearing failure.

Did any repairs as I assembled.

And repeat 5 more times.

I left the finished on in its proper orientation.

Once I got to the last 2, I slid the rebuilt ones on lining up the marks to the Allan head bolts and then rebuilt the last 2 sections.

Reassemble in reverse order now.

Some pointers on a few things to look for below.

Remember to tighten these back up after they are installed on shaft.

Washer bearing washer and then 3 spacer washers Loctite last nut.

Slide back section of drive on nut.

I feel inside circlip, the sharp side faces out.

Yeah, it sometimes makes a huge difference checking this.

Old GK reels were bad for them falling out.

Installing the reel motor drive cog.

Install with curve section facing down.

Important to install spacer washer on bearing side to keep them from binding, also the frame mounting end has slotted holes to keep them aligned.

Replace this tine bumper or just flip it to other side will also work.

A few spun on me so I just slotted the bolt head to get them off.

Ready now for tine assembly install.

Try to keep the brackets upside.

They may get fetched up and not be able to position them where they go after install.

I stuck a bolt in this one so it wouldn't jamb on lift frame bracket nuts.

Slotted holes to keep bearings running true.

And done.

After you do one it's pretty easy.

New issues on Old golf Equipment

2023-11-20T05:08:00.000-04:00

Equipment is nearing nine seasons with hours ranging from 2 to 5 thousand.

Past few season we have been getting some random shut down problems on some equipment.

To find the fuel pick ups in tank are getting clogged from what I'm assuming debries etc. that come of hands and gloves falling into the tank opening.

Easy fix.I just pulled line and grommet out together carefully.

Some where not to bad but this ones a great example.

Screen was pretty much clogged.I'll make notes to pull this tank later and give it a good flush .

Blew end off and sprayed brake clean inside tube and rolled it around and blew out with air after a few times.

Install grommet first then lightly lube tube end and reinstall.

and done for now.

3 units where having fuel issues so this off season I'll be checking and cleaning them up.

Club Car 4pass electric converted to 2 passenger

2023-11-15T05:38:00.002-04:00

WHY?

Here is my why.

12 units of 4 passenger carts

After getting them all running all but the 4 being used where neglected for basic battery maintanance.

This was after installing new batteries that wound up freezing.

Batterries didn't even see around! $$$$$

I was told some where being sold but I'm thinking there isn't much market for them after installing new batteries ...again and some may need new brushes and possible controllers.

At a total cost of $3450 before taxes then add the value of the cart 2 to 3 thousand.

We would have to sell them for at least 7 to 8 thousand dollars each for a 2015 cart.

We have alot of staff here during the summer.

I'm thinking maybe convert them to 2 seater for staff and marshalls to use on course and save 4 for the school.

Looking at ,it literally looks like they where sawsalled in half and streatched with aluminium beams.

I was right.

Wiring harness also had an added piece with connection points.

Cut the beam and reinstall back in framing.

Using original bolts drill and rebolt together.

Very solid.

I took a good 12" off .

It left a very long section on both side of framing.

Extra wiring harness .

Also had a bugger of a time trying to get it working again to find out when I pulled it apart it also pulled out one of the mcor4 wires .

Looks great can't wait to try it today.

Set it up to the max speed and it also has the bigger electric motor 3.7 hp

And done.

Hopefully they like it and convert the other 7.

Could even rent them out for some $$$$$ for the course .

Cheaper than buying more gear in these trying times .

Bobcat T590 new tracs install

2023-10-23T09:10:00.001-03:00

Fairly big job but doable by yourself.

If you have a loader or ceiling winch it will make the job alot easier.

Also a good time to change the sprocket hub oil.

Not much for instructions.

On this machine it's every 500 hour service or when tracks are removed.

also the plugs are behind the sprocket.

So they will need to be removed.

New tracks are better suited for snow and pavement use.

The little beast.

Tracks have some life left so will try to sell them on Kijiji.

Start of by getting it off the ground on jacks on all four corners.

Next loosen bolts on access plate to let grease out so tracks will retract for removal.

2 grease looking nipples.

One of them you loosen off to let the grease out of piston.

One of mine was plugged and wound up removing the grease nipple to let the pressure off.

Better shot.

I placed rags on top of a sheet of cardboard to make it easier to clean up.

Going to remove about a tube of grease in each.

To compress the piston I used 1 1/2" square tube stock ( I didn't have any pins or round bar ) which worked out great. Run the machine with the guard down so tou can activate the levers standing outside the door. Do this very slowly to allow enough time for the grease to weep out.

Using a rock bar I wedged it off the front and backed it up off the sprocket with machine power moving the lever.

Came off pretty easy.

The other side I needed the aid of the ceiling lift to pull it up high enough to rock bar it of the sprocket.

Pretty good luck getting them off.

Yah!!! First time doing this job.

I found out these bolts where heavily red loctited.

Wound up warming them up and cracking them off with a breaker bar /leverage bar.

Must be a reason for the loctite ,so I will reinstall them later with it .

Took a while but managed to get both side off.

Check them for wear.

In my case they had some wear so I'm going to flip side to get more life out of them .

Hub drain and fill plugs nuts where pretty much worn down from erosion . Debrie sits between hub and sprocket grinding them down. Had to use the rescue socket.Great tool, I highly recommend them.

Buying new plugs and yes they are pricy for what they where.

Drained the hub oil out of both sides. Not much in this type .Only take 60ml.

They definantly haven't been changed in a long time.One side might have had 30 ml.

Tap and dyed threads and bolts before reassembling.

Found this pin had fell out while I check machine over.

New plug.

Only takes 60ml a side.

Pretty thick. Install lower drain plug then pour really slowly keeping the stream very thin.

While you have it apart take the shield over hose connections and clean it out.

Ready for the sprocket.

I haven't tried this but they say you can install the track and then sprocket after to make it easier.

If you have something to lift track up it should work great.

Installing the sprockets.

You can see the wear.

Probably will need sprockets next time .

Not sure if it was needed but I'm going with what I seen on disassembly.

Had no issues with loose bolts before.

Torque them to sequence and spec.

Make sure your bleeder are snugged back in.

Track time.

Using the ceiling lift to help raise the track to near or sprocket height.

You will have to push here and find the right height on belt to rock bar the lower boggie in ,if your lucky top will line up with sprocket.

If it does or doesn't detach sling and rebelt some where mid point between sprocket and front.

Pushing on rear will get it past framing.

Should look like next few pics before rock baring the front in place.

It's a bit of a struggle to get the front one on.

A few tips... raise and lower the sling to get the slack you need to get it on.

One side I slid it right in place with the rock bar.

The other I couldn't pull enough to get it to go but it was close enough to reuse the 1 1/2" tube stock to roll it in place with machine power.

Do this slowly and carefully.

Find a half inch spacer and pump grease back in till it touches.

I ran the track back and forth for a bit and rechecked the clearance.

Took 2.5 hours for hub oil/sprockerts and track install.

I'm thinking 5 to 6 hours if your not running for parts and doing a good cleaning .

Hope this hepls someone else.

I posted about it because of the lack of info on you tube and internet lol.

2015 JD 7500-8800 phantom shutting down.

2023-10-13T09:28:00.002-03:00

Good old trusty #2 unit that I use to mow the front #9 fairwys this time of year in the wee hours .

This time of year with the kids going back to school where left a lttle short staffed so I chip in to give them some extra time .

Their serving us well here.

I'd buy them again.

Now on to the issue.

Random shutting down,then would go just fine then die again .

Had a brake switch go a while back on one of them so figured maybe the same.

Clean the brake switch connection and tested ok. Terminals where pretty corroded.

I knew it was either that or the seat switch.

Unplugged the seat switch and test pretty high on the ohms reading so proceded to remove the seat .

Was kind of expecting the old type switch for some reason. Thats what it showed on the PDF file .

A ha there you are.

Simple repair.

Just spliced in a new wire and re loomed for protection .

All good now.

Toro 1240 hitch change

2023-10-06T14:54:00.003-03:00

The struggle is reel.

Everyone here that has used this fancy hitch design dislikes it .

So after the last compliant and cut fingers and also the struggle of holding latch down while getting it back on the hitch for most staff we decided to go back to just a pin.

Took longer to make a pin than removing the hardware.

2015 Toro 5800 spayer boom cradel updated to #144-6158

2023-10-02T10:57:00.003-03:00

The old spring type like the one below snapped on one of ours .

Welding it up held till new part came in. I wondered why I couldn't by just the spring end.

Only comes as an ASM.

Which ussually means lots of dollars

Now it's a seperate piece, hopefully it can be purchased as a seperate item now. New part you will have to tighten those bolts.

Old verses new mounting bracket.

New design has allan head bolts so cradle can be adjusted now.

Cradle is also noticable shorter.

But works just the same.

For the premium price one would think it would have come with end caps and new padding.

John Deere 855D gator front PTO (4WD) shaft seal

2023-09-19T09:26:00.004-03:00

OK sounds and looks easy.

So you think it just pops out and you drive a new one in ?

Ah I don't see it happening with a large lip on casing it would have had to be driven over.

This is the seal for front wheel driveshaft . Ours has been dripping for a while.

Rain day So I figured I'd jusy pop a new one in.

Removed the old one.

Which you don’t have to do when splitting the case .

Pic of new one.

Very ridgid.

Lip I'm talking about that your suppose to be able to drive seal in?

So drive shafts already off along with belt cover ( I thought I might be able to get a better drive angle ) with cover off , It's a tight spot no matter what your replacing on these machines . Remove park brake assembly. 2 bolts and vent unclipped.

Just a screw holds the coupler in place for driveline.

Cleaning up gasket surfaces and tipped machine up a bit to keep fluid away.

When removing that pinion gear make sure to not loose the shims and reinstall them the same way they came out .

Sealer added to all mating surfaces. grey ultra.

Same for case.

Grease the shaft and seal before reinstalling.

If your having an issue putting pinion gear in make sure shims are in place and not binding.

Case installed

Bolts snugged till gasket just starts to squeeze out and let set up for an hour before torquing down.

I'll let it sit overnight before topping fluid.

Belt cracking .

Replacing now before it goes. Covers already off.

Not a bad job it was more than what I was expecting.

New belt installed and done .

Just check the fluid in the AM and reinstall tire and mud flap.

John Deere 7500 -8800 raise /lower switch cheap fix

2023-09-18T12:25:00.006-03:00

Here is what it looks like undamaged. What happens is one or both spring ends break off.

Want to save yourself a few hundred dollars?

If the spring pins not broken remove the busted springs and replace with 2 rubber O rings .

Works great lasts a few seasons .

I have a little pic with a bent 90 to get them on easily.

6-7 cents worth of harware lol

Pic after old broken springs are removed leaving grooved pins .

Sooooo eeeeeasyyyyy !!!!

John Deere TX Gator out of the normal brake issue

2023-09-15T09:34:00.000-03:00

Had a Gator with no brake pedal issue.

Started looking for a damaged line or rusted out fittting with no luck .

Head scratcher for a bit till I checked the boot on the brake caliper to find the clip pulled out of the end ?

Like this.

A few pics of removal . Pretty easy access.

Take care not to lose the banjo bolt seals.

You might have to remove bolt closest to you to tip up and remove the front one . Mine was pretty tight to the framing.

Remove this screw to get the rest of the cup washer and springs. I keeps the spring under tension to keep the cup in the right location. This bottom section on assembling you will have to push in to reinstall this screw.

Yeah it's buggered up. The clip seat is worn out ,I'm assuming it's from sliding your foot off the brake and letting it slam back up .

Dremell tool saved the day ( fingers crossed )

Cleaned up nice

Test fitted clip. Seems tight a snugged down in the groove now.

Pushing down on first set of spring and cup washer to get screw back in under tension .

Pulled on it a few times. Feels solid.

One thing I did notice is this brake rod wasn't adjusted long enough to prevent this issue.

Before reinstalling I lined up mounting holes and extended rod so it's also lined up. New adjustments extended rod by 1/2 " Shouldn't spring back now putting stress on that clip .

When reassembling master cylinder use clean brake fluid and pour a little in between spring sections. It will make bleeding out he brakes easier.

One man brake bleeder is a tad worn out.

So I'm making a new fancy one using a presure vac pump .

Start of small and move up in bit sizes till hose fits very snugly in lid

Vac side just goes and inch through the lid.

Bleeder side goes to near bottom of jar .

Works great.

Vac from the furthest line away to the closest.

I had to vac from the furthest rear and pump the pedal a few time to bleed the master cylinder same for front side.

Lots of pedal pressure now.

Repurpousing spent John Deere relayed actuator.

2023-08-31T07:08:00.006-03:00

The actuator is from a 2015 TX gator.

One if tbhe internal relays went causing it to only randomly go up .

Taking it apart for inspection to find out it's not servicable.

Also this number means nothing.Part is also not sold .

So I checked the operation up and down with direct battery power.

Ram works and sounds pretty good.

I decided to reuse it for our brush which had an aftermarket ram that runs very slow.

Two of our gators I had wired relays and switches to run the drag brush.

I pulled the rubber grommet out and pulled each wire through and reinstalled grommet and added a little silicon .

Test run. Works great but wheels didn't come up of the ground enough.

After a little thinking I decided to go this route so I can alway go back to OEM if I wanted to in the future.

Worked out great.

2015 TX gator Latch replacement

2023-08-30T13:15:00.000-03:00

We have 8 units here,half of them need the tailgate latch replaced.

They still work .

Just a little hard to pull some of them.

Part #

No mud guard for top but does come with replacenent clips .

A little tip to get them on easy. I'm using a 5/16' nut to hold latch open.

Onlt 2 screws

and 2 clips to take out. remember which way they go and also the clip actaully clips on top of clip so to get them back in you might have to tip front downthen up as your pushing in place .

Pull latch rods out enough for latch to fall out. Remember orintaion for installing.

Should just fall out.

Assemble in reverse order

JD 7400 oil pan whoos

2023-07-28T12:18:00.001-03:00

One of the 7400 are used for cart path edges and sees alot of wear and deck angles.

My logic is to sacrifice one unit to save the rest and saves use countless man hours .

over the seasons its been barely hitting the oil pan.

Finaly it punchered a hole .

managed to beat the hole closed enough to add oil and get it to the shop.

I'd say the easist oil pan I ever replaced.

Not an issue at any other course ,I'm going to do a little trimming and rounding of sharp edges on rear deck.

Like so.

Should be enough to solve our issue.

Ready to battle the next round of cart path edging.

Toro 5800 steering ram temperary repair

2023-07-25T10:58:00.004-03:00

Ouch !!! It happens

Simple repair right ?

Sooooo

No part available in Canada

Best part is they can't even give us an ETA.

Not good the beast is out near daily logging in many hours.

Not having it going isn't an option.

Sign of the times overpricing on parts if you can even get them.

Be carefull out there if a unit goes down it may be down for the season.

Touched a rock.

Probably had a crack in it and finally gave away .

So I ground both ends down to near a point and welded it in then sleeved it with a grade 8 nut.

Will it hold?

Who knows I'm out of options.

Well I made it back to the shop. Will see how long it lasts .

update later on.

Holding for now, they finished the greens

And Tees done today

John Deere 2500 E traction pedal bearings 2015

2023-07-13T12:11:00.001-03:00

hours 3500 + -

If you keep the gear long enough these will go.

Problem was reverse started to decline over time to a point where it was getting a bit annoying.

The reverse rides of the forward pedal via a small bearing. AM10726 and the rest of the assembly has 4 more bearings AM 123565.

Nice little machine

removing reels make the job go faster.

Then remove this bracket.

These bolts will drop out opening in frame.

On reassembling tighten this bolt up last , the hole is slotted for na better fit.

Remove both pedals.

When assembling center pedal in opening before tightening.

Traction linkage remove next.

Bent needle nose pliers helps get those rue clips off.

Remove the bearing plate shaft holder bolts.

Might need a helper wrench to crack them loose.

More Rue clips on end of shafts.

You can see a notch out area ( left front in pick) so it can drop forward on that side to slide it all out.

Install the new bearings.

Don't hammer what looks like a sleeve to get bearing out ,It's part of the casting.

This style chisel work ok to remove them.

A few pics of old bearings

New reversing bearing.

Also save these washers for assembling.

Wasn't nmuch left to old one.

The other unit was pretty much gone.

Another pic of casting lip.

A helper wrench to snug them up good .

A few more pics above.

reasemble in reverse order .

Feel and work like new.

Had to adjust the park brake on one of them .

John Deere 855D Park Brake clutch pac install

2023-07-10T06:47:00.002-03:00

Easy to replace.

Hrs. 1878 on this unit .

I did a few years ago adjusted cable to get a little more life out of them.

That was a big job and hoped cable was streatched enough to not have to readjust.

It's called a wet clutch used to lock transmission for park .

As with most golf equipment .... not cheap .

Nice kit .

You may or may not need the seal kit.

Mine tore the gasket a bit so was glad I had ordered it now.

Vent tube was pretty brittle so I cut it back to install it later.

Remove the 2 large 3/4"bolts.

clean work area and part your working on and I also tied the mud flap out of my way.

T30 bolts removed.

There are 3 tabs to twist the cover off.

Easily seprated.

Brake clutch pac, also new pins in kit.

Layered with metal first and last.

Bearing looks great.

It was quick work to clean up cover.

Replace seal and o ring from seal kit.

Old clutch pac didn't look to worn out.

Looks are deceiving.

Put a little grease on seal and o ring.

Install all bolts finger tight and pre fit it on splined shaft to line up clutch splines.

Carefully removed and tighten up.

Carefully they are not that tight.I'd be guessing 20 in. lbs

would be plenty.

If there is an issue lining it up you can also rock the shaft back and forth.

Install the bolts don't over do it it is aluminium.

Adding JD 20 to clutch pac through vent hole till it weeps out lower port.

Do it slowly or it might just go in and right out .

Reinstalled vent.

Park brake working normal again with only a half pull up .

Tx gator starter /gen issues

2023-06-26T10:52:00.003-03:00

We are running 8 of the TX gators since 2015.

usually when they act up I just clean them and install new brushes.

Once in a while I get on that the field frame has broken wire or plates to connections.

Broken and toasted wire

and broke copper bar. Which I've tried soldering in the past but doesn't hold for long .

John Deere do not sell the parts for them other than the brushes.

But Club Car do.

So I decided to try it and see

Same starter b/ gen basically but wire locations are a bit different.

Just pay attension which wires go where. they are all labeled the same F1 etc.

so far so good.

It's been out all morning.

<200 $ is better tghan >700$ Canadian for a new one .