bobwilson123 - Youtube Tutorials

Please test my bow pattern

2012-03-18T20:15:00.001+11:00

I would love you to test my pattern - THERE MAY BE ERRORS !
Make sure there are no spelling mistakes, the pattern makes sence
All feedback can be sent to bobwilson123@iprimus.com.au

Crochet Bow
Designed by Bobwilson123
Converted to written pattern by Daisy

4mm hook
8ply/DK or any yarn of your choice
Scissors, darning needle to thread ends in.US Terms
Ch - Chain
SC - Single Crochet
Rep - Repeat
FO - Fast Off

Note: This project can be made with the following stitches, sc, dc, hdc or combinations of them all, it’s entirely up to you. I have made this one using sc.

To make the bow

Make a slip knot and ch desired length allowing for the side to be folded in, so it has to be longer to allow for left and right sides to be folded up.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch1, turn.

Row 2: 1sc in each st across, ch1, turn

Row 3: Rep row 2 until your bow is wide enough in height then FO.

My one in the video tutorial is 2"/5cms high and 8"/20cms long.

To judge how long you need it, you need to fold both ends to the centre, then squeeze it down in the middle and this will give you some idea on how big the bow will turn out. Then you can decide whether it’s too big or small or the right side. So you can either undo it or add more rows.

When your happy with desired length and width, FO and leave a long tail for sowing up ends. Fold both ends to the middle and either slip stitch your two ends using your hook or whip stitch them together using your darning needle with your yarn tail. You should now have a tube.

For Centre Part Of Bow

Make slip knot, ch5 or desired length you need. You don’t need it to be too wide as it’s only to hold the centre piece.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across the row, ch1, turn

Row 2: 1sc in each st across, rep row 2 until your centre piece reaches your desired length.

To gauge this don’t FO your yarn yet. Take your bow and squash it together in the middle and then wrap the centre piece around it. It should be slightly shorter because it needs to be tight to hold the squashed middle part down for the bow effect.

If your centre piece is either too long, undo a few rows or if it is not long enough add a few rows, then FO and sow ends together while holding it against the bow part making sure the sowed up seam of the bow is at the back and the centre piece draws the centre part of the bow tight.

Now your bow is finish you can attach it to anything you like. For example, a hat, a bag etc.

Please test my Bag Bag pattern

2012-03-18T19:47:00.000+11:00

I would love you to test my pattern - THERE MAY BE ERRORS !
Make sure there are no spelling mistakes, the pattern makes sence
All feedback can be sent to bobwilson123@iprimus.com.au

A Bag Bag - Bag Holder
Designed by bobwilson123
Converted into written format by Daisy

4mm Crochet Hook
8 ply/DK/Sports weight or yarn of your choice
In as many colors as you like.
Sharp pair of scissors, sowing needle with large eye
Shirring/Hat/Thin Elastic
Tape Measure

US Terms
DC - double crochet
Ch - Chain
Sl St - Slip Stitch
Rnd - round

Starting from the top, make a ch 12” or 30.5cms long. You can make it smaller or bigger, it’s entirely up to you.

Untwist your ch with flat side facing you, join with a sl st to form a ring.

Rnd 1: Ch3, 1dc in each ch around, join top of ch3 with a sl st.

Repeat Rnd 1 until your bag is the 19.68 or 50cms long. You can make your one shorter or longer. Fasten off when you’ve reached your desired length.

Adding Elastic
Turn bottom of bag inside out, and with your large eyed needle or crochet hook thread the elastic through the back loops of dc stitches, to hide the elastic to the other side. Gather up the elastic so the hole is smaller enough for your hand to reach in and pull a plastic back out. You don’t want to leave large gap or your bags will fall out. When your happy with the gathered end, cut off and leave an 1” or 2.5 cms each end and tie a knot and hide the ends back into your back dc loops.

Chain Tie Draw String. Make your chain so it’s about 78”/2 metres long. Fasten off. Thread end into needle, weave in and out of top of first row of dc all the way around. Put both ends together and tie a knot. Now your bag is ready to use.

Please test my baby poncho pattern

2012-03-18T19:35:00.000+11:00

Converted to written pattern by Daisy

Starting from neck downwards, make slip knot and ch56.

Join to form a circle with a sl st, be careful not to twist

Rnd 1: Ch2, 2dc in same sp as ch2, ch1, sk 3ch sp’s, 3dc in next ch, ch1 *sk 3chs, 3dc in next ch, ch1 rep from * until you have 5 shells, not including first one made.

First corner - Sk 3ch, 3dc in next ch, ch2, 3dc in same ch. ch1, *sk 3ch, 3dc in next ch, ch1 rep from * until you’ve worked another 6 shells.

Second corner - Sk 3ch, 3dc in next ch, ch2, 3dc in same ch, ch1, join with sl st in top of ch3, making sure your work is not twisted and is facing all the same way.

Rnd 2: (If you’re changing color, FO last color and join in new color, by sl st new color in sp you FO last color.) Ch2, 2dc in same sp, ch1,
* 3dc in next ch sp, ch1, rep from * until you get to first corner. 3dc, ch2, 3dc in corner sp, ch1.

* 3dc in next ch sp, ch1, rep from * until you get to second corner. 3dc, ch2, 3dc in corner sp. 3dc in next ch sp, ch1 until you end, join with sl st in top of ch2.

Rnd 3 to 7: Repeat Rnd 2 changing colors as you go or just using same color and then you can FO, or you can do a shell border.

If your poncho is for a boy, do another 3dc shell rnd instead of the flower border.

5dc - 1 flower shell for bottom border

Sl st in top of 3dc from below row, into next ch1 sp, ch3(which counts as 1dc), 4dc, 1sc in top of middle of the next 3dc from below row, * 5dc in next ch1 sp, 1sc in top of middle of the next 3dc from below row, rep from * until you reach corner, 1sc in top of middle, 5dc in corner ch2 sp, 1sc in top of middle, then rep from * to next corner and do the same with first corner, then carry on 5dc in ch1 sp, 1sc in top of middle to the end, join with sl st top of ch3.

FO and weave in your ends.

Neck border

Rnd 1: Join your choice of color with a sl st under one of the last dc st, ch5, sk the next 3chs, sl st under 2nd of top dc ch. * ch5, sk the next 3chs, sl st under 2nd of top dc ch rep from * around to the end and sl st in 1st ch from beginning.

Rnd 2: Sl st in the next 3chs, ch3, sl st into the next 3rd ch of ch5. * ch3, sl st into the next 3rd ch of ch5, rep from * around until you reach end and join with sl st and FO.

Poncho Tie

Take two strands of yarn and make a slip knot. Make a chain as long as you think it should be but don’t Fasten it off yet. Find the front of your poncho, taking the beginning of your chain start to thread through corner part of top of last row of neck border, weaving it in and out of the holes, to the other side of front. You need to have enough chain for tying a know or bow, so if it’s not longer enough after threading, then chain some more until you are happy with your required length.

Adjust the tie by pulling gently through neck line without tightening it too much. Make a knot and bow, leaving some dangly bits and if it’s ok, then FO or add more chains.

Crochet Bag Bag Tutorial

2012-02-27T07:34:00.001+11:00

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dLjTc9I5tfk

This bag is for holding all of your grocery store plastic bags for storage and reuse!

Crochet Icord - Written pattern and video tutorial

2012-02-26T17:40:00.001+11:00

Most of us would have heard of the Knitted Icord, Yes ? Well you can also crochet one !

Icord instructions:

a) Ch 3, go into 2^nd ch from hook, pull up loop, go into 3^rd ch, pull up loop.

b) Remove 1^st two loops from hook and hold them.

c) Ch 1, put next loop you’re holding back on hook, ch 1, put last loop you’re holding back on hook, ch 1. You should end up with 3 loops on your hook.

d) Repeat steps b & c until you reach the desired length.

e) Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops to fasten off. Weave in ends.

Tip: to tighten the icord, pull up on 2^nd loop on hook and then pull 3^rd loop as you work.

Friendship Afghan - Written Pattern and Video Tutoiral

2012-02-23T17:07:00.001+11:00

Friendship Afghan
Designed by Bobwilson123

Converted into written pattern by Daisy

You can use this pattern for a scarf

Materials
4mm crochet hook
8ply or DK yarn
Scissors & darning needleUS Terms
ch - Chain
SC - Single Crochet
DC - Double Crochet
Blp’s - Back Loop’s

BLO – Back Loop Only
FL - Front Loop
Sl St - Slip Stitch
St(s) - Stitch(s)
MC - Main Color
CC - Contrast colors in as many colors as you like

FO – Finish off

Make chs in multiples of 8 + 5. What that means is you need to make a ch in sets of 8, as long and wide as you wish your project to be, then add 5 ch more. This design can also be made into a scarf. We will begin and end each row with a length of yarn for fringe.

*Pattern is worked all on the same side, so no turning.

With MC make a slip knot, and leave a long tail for fringe end, ch32 + 5

Row 1: SC in 2nd ch from hook, SC in each ch across. Cut your yarn and leave long tail for other end of fringe. FO. If you like, you can make a wider border in SC by adding more SC rows, it’s entirely up to you.

Row 2: Join new CC with sl st in BLO, making sure tail is same length as your first yarn tail from beginning. Ch1, SC into BLO across to end of row. Cut yarn same length as below yarn tail and FO.

Row 3: Join MC at beginning of row with a sl st, leaving yarn tail for fringe length as below rows. Ch1 (which counts as 1st SC) SC in next 3blp’s. For next St drop down to row 1, work DC into FL of SC on row 1 (directly below next SC in row 3). DC in FL of next 4 SC’s on row 1. *SC in next 4 BLO (of row 3), DC into the next 4 FL’s of row 1, SC in next 4 Blp’s on row 3* Repeat from* to end of row, ending with 4 SC sts. Cut yarn for fringe end and pull up to tighten off.

Row 4: With MC join with sl st in Blp, leaving yarn tail for fringe, ch1, SC in Blp’s across to the end of row. Cut yarn leaving fringe tail and pull up and tighten off.

Continue working rows 2, 3, 4 for your desired length of your project, remembering to leave tails each end for fringe same lengths.

Your last row should end with MC.

Crochet Earwarmer / Headband - Written pattern and Video tutorial

2012-02-23T17:04:00.000+11:00

How to Crochet an Ear warmer with button up back

Designed by Bobwilson123

Double Strand of 8ply yarn used with a 6.50 mm hook

OR worsted weight yarn and a 5.5mm hook

Sewing needle

Button

Start with a slip knot and make a chain long enough to go around your head to cover your ears, this will differ on each person.

Row 1: sc in the second chain from the hook, sc in the next 9 chains (this makes the narrow area in the back of the head warmer that you may/may not put a button on),

put marker in, count back 10 chains on the opposite end of chain and also put in marker, hdc (half double crochet) to marker at end

sc in the last 10 chains, ch 1 and turn.

Row 2: (work loosely) slip stitch across to the marker, hdc across in each stitch to the next maker, (work loosely) slip stitch to end of the row. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 3: sc in the next 10 st into the spaces of the sc or Row 1 not into the slip stitches to your marker, hdc across to next marker,

sc to the end of the row, also into the spaces of the sc or Row 1 not the slip stitches, Chain 1, turn.

Row 4: slip stitch across to the marker, hdc across to the next marker, slip stitch to end of the row.

Row 5: alternating Row 1 and Row 2 until the head warmer is as wide as needed.

Border of the ear warmer.

Sc in the first 2 st (if you did 6 rows) you would sc in the first 2 st of the end of the ear warmer ch 2 and sc into the last 2 stitches, 2/3 sc in the corner and continue around the ear warmer back to the beginning st and slip stitch across to the opposite corner to reinforce the button hole.

Sew your button onto the centre of the opposite end.

Enjoy.

Cross Stitch Hat - Written Pattern and Video Tutorial

2012-02-23T17:02:00.000+11:00

CROSS STITCH HAT

Crochet pattern designed by: bobwilson123

Converted into written format by Tammy

Thank you to www.facebook.com/KatLeighsKrafts for supplying this wonderful photo

Yarn: 8 ply or double knit wool

Hook size: G (4.5mm)

Yarn of your choice and a hook recommended for your yarn (see tips)

Stitch abbreviations used in this pattern:

CH – Chain

DC – Double crochet

SC – Single crochet

ST – Stitch

SL ST – Slip stitch

“Basic Hat Crown” supplied by http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.com.au/2011/07/crochet-basic-dc-crown.html

The basic dc crown can be used for the beginning of many hat designs.

The measurements given are an approximate as many yarns will differ from brand to brand.

I am using an Australian 8 ply yarn and a 4.00mm hook (US G/6)

I will be giving instructions for a small adult and medium to large adult, both reflecting woman's sizes.

Stitches used are:

Ch=chain

DC= double crochet

Sl st= slip stitch

Notes: the beginning ch 3 is counted as a dc.

TIPs: Because all yarns are different country to country, when making crown of beanie, continue increasing until circumference measures the size of your head. (if your head is 23 inches around then your hat needs to measure 1 inch smaller. Remember that your hat will stretch a bit)
Amount of stitches needs to be able to be divided by 2 (i.e. 72 stitches)

To begin: Ch 4

Row 1.Work 11 dc into 4th chain from hook, sl st to join in top of ch 3. (12 dc)

Row 2. Ch 3, work 1 dc in same place as ch 3, work 2 dc in each dc around, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (24 dc)

Row3. Ch 3, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in next dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (36 dc)

Row 4. Ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (48 dc)

Row 5. Ch 3, work 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (60 dc)

Stop increasing here for a small adult hat.

Row 6. Ch 3, work 1 dc in next 3 dc, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (72 dc)

Stop increasing here for a medium to large adult hat

TIP: When making crown of beanie, continue increasing until circumference measures the size of your head. (if your head is 23 inches around then your hat needs to measure 1 inch smaller. Remember that your hat will stretch a bit)
-Amount of stitches needs to be able to be divided by 2 (i.e. 72 stitches)

-Once you have completed the basic crown of your beanie, now we begin.

‘Cross stitch’ stitch refers to the ‘X’ look of the two stitches together.

-You can work as many rows of ‘Cross stitch’ as you like to change up the pattern.
- The brim may also be adjusted to suit your own design

To make this a slouch beanie, add 3 or 4 more rows of the ‘Cross stitch’ this will allow this hat to slouch in the back.

TO START: CH-3, DC into stitch before the CH-3 just made (see image 1 below) (This will create the ‘X’ look), skip next stitch, DC into next st (see image 2 below), DC into previous ST skipped (see image 3) *Skip next ST, DC into next ST, DC into previous ST skipped (see image 4 )* Repeat from * to * around until end of row. Join with SL ST into top of beginning CH -3.

Image 1

Image 2

Image 3

Image 4

Row 2- Making sure that our cross-stiches are above the previous row of cross-stitches, SL ST into next stitch and now CH-3, DC in previous space to make your ‘cross-stitch’ *skip next ST, DC into next ST, DC into previous stitch skipped* end by joining with SL ST into beginning CH-3.

Do not forget to SL ST into next space after joining round and before starting the next round with your CH-3.

Continue to repeat ROW 2, until you have reached your desired length of the X sttich

BRIM: After joining the last row of your hat, CH-1, SC in each stitch around. (For a tighter fit around brim use a smaller hook) You can also make as many rows as you like

Crochet Mary Jane Slipper - Written pattern and video tutorial

2012-02-23T16:52:00.000+11:00

Crochet Slipper – Mary Jane Style

Design by: bobwilson123

Converted to written format by Dorian

Materials:

2 balls of 8ply/DK/Sports Weight yarn, 6mm crochet hook

1x7 oz of worsted weight and a 6mm crochet hook

2 buttons

Scissors

Sewing needle

Abbreviations:

beg = begin/beginning

ch = chain

hdc = half double crochet;

rep = repeat

rnd(s) = round(s)

sl st = slip stitch

st(s) = stitch(es)

Notes:

1) If using 8ply yarn Use both strands at the same time for thickness

2) You start at the toe & work your way back;

3) Front part of slipper is adjustable to any length;

4) Height of side/back of shoe is adjustable;

5) Keep stitches tight;

6) Sc could be used instead of hdc.

INSTRUCTIONS

TO CREATE FRONT OF SLIPPER

Beg at toe, Ch 5; join with sl st to beg ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, work 11 hdc into center of ring; join with sl st to top of 1^st st: (12 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, hdc into same st where you joined; 2 hdc in each of the remaining sts, join with sl st to top of 1^st st: (24 sts)

---Determine size/fit: take disk you’ve made & put it on tip of your foot. Disk

should be about as wide as your foot. If it fits, ignore next increase round. If not,

add increase rnds as needed. Remember - the slipper will stretch!

Rnd 3: Ch 1, * hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st; rep from * to end, join with sl st in ch 1. (this is your increase rnd)

---Repeat this rnd if needed until you’ve reached the width of your foot.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with sl st in ch 1.

---After you work a couple of rnds, try it on over your foot. If it’s too narrow, undo a

couple of rnds and work in increase rnds. Once you’ve passed the toes the width is

set. You just determine how far up your foot you want the top of the shoe to go.

Rnd 5 - : rep Rnd 4 until desired length (remember to count how many rnds/rows you do so you know what to do for the other shoe).

TO CREATE THE BACK OF SLIPPER

Fold tube in half. You will now crochet rows from one side to the other (see

pic 1a). Use stitch markers on each side. To make the slipper come up a bit higher

on your foot, adjust starting point up a couple of sts on each side (see pic 1b)

Row 1: Ch 1, hdc in each st until you reach stitch marker, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: hdc in 2^nd st from hook, hdc in each st across row; hdc in the ch 1 from previous row, Ch 1, turn.

Row 3 : repeat Row 2 until flap reaches the back of heel (see pic 2)

Sew the seam: Fold flap in half and turn slipper so that the back of shoe faces you. Hold flap up so that one side of fold is facing you (see pics 3 - 4).

Step 1: hdc in 1^st st of front piece; sl st in 1^st st of back piece

Step 2: hdc in next st of front piece; sl st in next st of back piece

Step 3: rep step 2 in the remaining sts in the front and back pieces; on the last st

just sl st through both front/back pieces.

Step 4: Ch 1, fasten off. Weave in ends. (you could also use your own preferred

method of creating a seam)

Stitch around the opening:

Step 1: Pick a stitch anywhere in slipper opening, insert hook & pull yarn through

Step 2: Ch1, hdc in “spaces” all around the top of opening (work as evenly as

Possible in as many rnds as you like)

Step 3: Sl st into 1^st st you made in the rnd. Cut yarn, fasten off. Weave in ends.

TO CREATE THE STRAP

Pick spot along slipper opening where you want to put the strap. Insert hook, pull yarn through

Row 1: ch1; hdc in same space, hdc in next 3 spaces; ch 2, turn

Row 2: hdc in 2^nd st from hook, hdc in each st across; ch 2, turn

Row 3 - ?: rep Row 2 until strap is long enough (try on to determine length)

Last Row: hdc in 2^nd st from hook, hdc in each st across; ch a few times to create button hole (depends on button size); turn work, sl st to other side. See if button will fit through loop you’ve made.

To finish button loop: hdc a few times around the loop, sl st in strap at end of loop.

Sew button onto shoe.

For other shoe, be sure to make strap on opposite side, and to sew button on opposite side as well.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Easy Scarf with flower - Written Pattern and Video Tutorial

2012-02-23T16:47:00.001+11:00

Easy Scarf with flower

Designed by bobwilson123

Converted into written format by Daisy

Materials
4mm hook DK/8ply yarn or yarn of your choice and recommended hook
Scissors

Darning needle

US Terms
Ch - Chain
DC - Double crochet
St(s) - Stitches
Hk - hook
You can make your scarf long or short. See above photos on how you can wear your finished scarf.

I have many flower tutorials on my blog or you could try this Ruffled Flower done by Amanda Cari, here’s her tutorial on her flower, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdsblKZXPQ0 I’ve made my one the size of my hand but you can choose how big or small you wish your flower to be. You can use any of your favorite flower pattern Or this is a nice free rosette pattern at this link, http://cache.lionbrand.com/cgi-bin/patternFinder.fcgi?language=&store=%2Fstores%2Flionbrand&search=1&searchText=crochet+rosette+flower&submit.x=0&submit.y=0

I’ve made my scarf about 2 inch / 5 cms wide and 78 inch/ 200 cms long, which wraps around my neck about three or four times.. But you can make yours as wide and long or short as you like.

make a chain as wide as you want your scarf, but for demonstration I’m doing as follows.

Row 1: Make a slip knot and ch8, dc into the 4th ch from hook and dc the remaining chs. Turn

Row 2: ch3, Dc in each st to the last st, remembering to dc into the chain 3 from the row below

Repeat Row 2 until you have your desired length for your scarf.
FO and weave in your yarn ends.

Optional: You can make a fringe each end of scarf. Cut strips of yarn the desired length. Level each end and attach each strip by inserting your crochet hook under two loops of top of edge and looping your strand of yarn around the hook and pulling through, yarning over the two strands and pulling through the loop. Pull up tight and your first fringe is now done. Make all the others the same way.

Attach your flower
Make your desired flower.
Make tab/band the same as the dc scarf. My one is 6sts across. I did 4 rows but it all depends on your yarn and how bulky it is to the width and length of your tab.

You need to make it slightly shorter than the width of your scarf or the flower might fall off. Sow one end to the back of your flower. Then lay your scarf under it and see if it’s the right length. If it is then sow the other end on the edge of the bottom of the flower.

Now it’s good to go and wear it.

Market String Bag - Written Pattern and Video Tutoial

2012-02-23T16:35:00.000+11:00

MARKET STRING TOTE BAG
designed by bobwilson123

Converted to written format by Daisy

Materials
8Ply or DK yarn
4mm Crochet Hook
Scissors and darning needle
Optional - two stitch markers

US Terms
Ch - Chain
DC - Double Crochet
SK - Skip
Rep - Repeat
FO - Fasten off

NOTE: MAKING THE MIDDLE MESH PART
Make a slip knot and ch in sets of 4. Ch until required length is needed making sure you take into account that the chain is twice as WIDE as you want you bag, as we will be folding the bag in half when finished

Materials
8Ply or DK yarn OR Yarn of your choice and recommended hook
4mm Crochet Hook
Scissors and darn

Row 1: dc in the 5th ch from hook, (counts as DC, ch1 and skipped ch) *Ch1, sk 1ch, 1dc in next ch*; rep from* to end of ch row. Ch3, turn

Row 2: Sk ch1 sp, *1dc into below row, ch1, sk1 st*. Rep from* to the end of the row. Ch4 (this counts as DC and ch1) turn.

Continue row 2 until you reach your desired length/height of your tote bag. If you’re going to change color FO here.

ADDING EDGING
To join your edges together, you can use the same color or a contrast color. It’s up to you.

Fold mesh together, (putting first row and last row together) making sure you line up the edges correctly. Grab your yarn and start at the side, sl st in 1st ch sp. Make 2sc in each ch sp, making sure you go through both layers top layers of tote bag. Work 3sc’s in 1st corner of your bag.

When you get to the top part of your bag work 1sc into each dc st and ch 1. When you reach your 2nd corner, do 3sc in it. When you get to your 3td side it will be the folded apart. To make the bag took even with a border on all 3 sides work 2sc into each space. Then work down the second side, the same as first side

Now you have three sides joined in sc. Now you need to sc around the top opening edge separately, by working 1sc in each ch1 space and 1sc in each dc, sl st into beginning of first sc st.
You could do more than one row, by ch1 and sc another round or leave it as it is. Do not FO.

HANDLES

You want to lay your bag flat and divide the top edge into 4

I……….I……….I……….I ß--- this is the top edges that you just sc around

I……….I……….I……….I ß--- Place a stitch marker on the 2 middle

Do the same for the other side of the bag

Ch1 and sc until you reach your first stitch marker. Depending on how long you want your handles chain the length you want, (write this number down so that you can repeat it on the other side) Then sc into the next stitch marker and each stitch until you reach the next stitch marker

Ch the same amount you did on the other side and then sc into the next stitch marker, sc in each stitch, join with a sl st

Ch1 and sc until you get the 1st handle, sc into each ch, sc until you reach the second handle and repeat as first handle.

Ch1 and sc in each sc around, join with a sl st

Repeat until you have you handle the width you want them. FO and weave in yarn end.

This would look real cool in Plarn (plastic yarn) which is yarn made from plastic bags. Here's a link on how to make plain if you’re interested. I think it is the best way to make it this way and easier. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JwSUbbYmB_I&feature=plcp&context=C3cc70daUAOEgsToPDskIoa-YWPyJ6sHqsC16hASiB

Triangle Shawl - Narrow Version - Free Written Pattern and Video Tutorial

2012-02-23T16:16:00.000+11:00

Triangle Shawl - Narrow Version
Designed by Bobwilson123

Converted in to written format by Daisy

PHOTO TO BE ADDED :)
Materials

Note: You can use any yarn you like, make sure you use the recommended hook
4mm crochet hook
8ply/DK yarnScissors and darning needle

US Terms
Ch - Chain
DC - Double Crochet
St(s) - Stitch(s)

Make slip knot. Ch4, 2dc in 4th ch from hook. Ch3, turn

Row 1: 1dc in same st as ch3, 1dc in next st, 2dc in last st, ch3 turn (5dc sts.)

Row 2: 1dc in same st as ch3, 1dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in last st, ch3 turn. (7dc sts)

Row 3: 1dc in same st as ch3, 1dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in last st, ch3 turn (9 dc sts.)

Carry on increasing two dc each end and 1dc in each st in between to the size you wish your shawl to be.
When you’ve finished getting to the size you wish, fasten off yarn and sow in yarn tails.

You can also add a fringe border.

CROCHET SINGLE CROCHET BORDER
Taking the color of your choice, either the same color you used for the shawl or a completely different color and your crochet hook you used.

Insert your hook into the bottom 2sts when you started your shawl. Pull yarn through and secure with a slip stitch

Start by working your single crochet on the top edges. You have to decide where to put the sts and sometimes it might curl up and that means you’ve not added enough single crochet stitches, which might make it a bit tight. It needs to look flat when laid down. Don’t work into the gaps or you’ll end up with a gapping whole. Work single crochet to the end.

When you reach top row edge, work 3sc in corner st, which will make it go around the corner, otherwise it will curl up. 1sc each st of top of last row. Into last corner stitch, work 3sc.

Work the other side down like you work it up the same. When you get to the last st which would the beginning, slip stitch into first stitch and fasten off. Sew in ends.

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How to crochet a Credit Card Purse - Written pattern and Video tutorial

2012-02-23T16:13:00.000+11:00

How to crochet a Credit Card Purse - Easy

By: Bobwilson123

Converted into written format by Lebiya, Unbeadable Designs - http://www.youtube.com/user/UnbeadableDesigns

Notes: I made this pattern using 2x 8ply/Double Knit/Sports weight strands of yarn held together. You can substitute this with 1 strand of worsted weight yarn. This is a easy pattern and can be adjusted to fit different items

Material

8ply/Double Knit/Sports weight Yarn OR you can substitute this with worsted weight yarn

Crochet Hook - 6.0 mm

Scissors

Credit card

Yarn Needle

Sewing Needle

Button

Thread

Pattern:

With 2 strands of yarn held together, Chain 10

R1: Ch 2, HDC in the 3rd ch from the hook, HDC 9 sts across

R2: Ch 2, turn, 9 HDC across

R3: Ch 2, turn, 9 HDC across

R4-R26: Same as R3

R27: Ch 1, draw a long strand, cut.

Directions:

Fold over 6 Rows. Sew both sides down with yarn needle and same color yarn (or crochet together). Weave in ends and cut.

Do the same for the other side.

Fold both sides together.

At the top of one flap, on the outside in the middle, slip stitch (ss), Ch ~7 (fit to your button), ss in same stitch, ch 1, cut and weave in ends. Attach button on other side at the top of the flap.

Follow along with the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFbqXRp84NI

Solid Triangle Shawl - Written pattern and video tutorial

2012-02-23T16:10:00.000+11:00

Solid Triangle Shawl

Designed by bobwilson123
Converted into written format by Daisy
The Photo below has addeded detail with the blocks that isnt included in the pattern or video. The was Olgaa's fantastic addition

HUGE thankyou to Olgaa for letting my use her FAB-U-LOUS photo :)

Note: You can use any yarn you like, make sure you use the recommended hook
8ply/DK yarn
4mm Crochet Hook
Scissors and darning needle

US Terms
Ch - Chain
DC - Double Crochet
St(s) - Stitch(s)

Make a slip knot. Ch4, 2dc in 4th ch from hook. (3dc sts) Ch3, turn

Row 1: 2dc in same st as ch3, 1dc in next st, 3dc in last st. Ch3 turn.
(7dc sts)

Row 2: 2dc in same st as ch3, 1dc in next 5 sts, 3dc in last st. Ch3 turn. (11dc sts)

Row 3: 2dc in same st as ch3, 1dc in next 9 sts, 3dc in last st. Ch3 turn.
( 15dc sts)

Row 3: 2dc in same st as ch3, 1dc in next 13 sts, 3dc in last st. Ch3 turn.
(19dc sts)

Carry on increasing 3dc each end and 1dc in between until you reach your desire size.
When you’ve finished getting to the size you wish, fasten off yarn and sew in yarn tails. You can also add a fringe border.

CROCHET SINGLE CROCHET BORDER

Taking the color of your choice, either the same color you used for the shawl or a completely different color and your crochet hook you used.

Insert your hook into the bottom 2sts when you started your shawl. Pull yarn through and secure with a slip stitch

Love my new Logo !!!!!

2012-02-22T22:49:00.004+11:00

I would like to thank Vanessa from Hourglass Photography for designing my awesome Logo

If you would like a awesome Logo like this you can contact Vanessa through her Website or FaceBook page

http://www.hourglassphotography.com.au/

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Bobwilson123-Youtube-Crochet-Channel/145759165474278#!/pages/Hourglass-Photography/113991048652457

2012-02-10T13:37:00.002+11:00

Moo Cow Crochet Hat Tutorial (2 videos)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tae0YAnCWIE

Crochet Bow Granny Square tutorial and written pattern

2012-02-08T19:23:00.001+11:00

Granny Square Bow
Designed by Bobwilson123

Converted into written format by Daisy

You will need to watch the video for part of the pattern

Video tutorial - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kv7hvrmFu4U
Materials
4mm hook
8ply or DK Yarn
Scissors & Darning needle

US Terms
Ch - Chain

SP – Space

MR – Magic Ring
ML - Magic Loop
tr - Treble Crochet
dc - Double Crochet
St - Stitch
Sl St - Slip Stitch
LP(s) - Loop(s)

Start with making a magic ring/loop

*Ch4, (does not count as st) 5tr into ring, ch4, sl st into ring.* repeat from* to*, to make part two of bow.

Gently close up Magic ring a little bit, not right up as you still need a hole to work in.
You may need to watch the video for this bit or there are 2 images below to help you Working behind the bow, Ch4, flip your work around and your going be working in the middle tr st, loops joining the MR.

You are looking at the back of your work. See the 2 loops/stitches that are to the left of the hook ? These are the stitches that you will be working into

Sl st in bottom of 2lps, ch4, sl st in between the first end of first bow, and beginning of second bow in the MR LP, making sure it’s tight, ch4, turn your piece around and sl st into the next bow’s middle bottom loops, ch4, sl st into 1st ch of ch4 when you started. Now you should of four lots of ch4 loops.

Change color. Cut your yarn and pull through loop and tighten off.
Now you can pull other yarn end to close up MR hole. Make sure ch4 loops stay at the back and flip over and adjust them, as you are going be working them with your second color. Sew in ends really tight to close up hole from MR.

You need to have your bow facing you so your granny square will be worked right way around. Taking your new color, sl st into one of the ch4 lps
Make 1ch st to secure.
Ch3, (counts as 1dc), 2dc in ch sp, ch1, 3dc in same ch sp.

In next ch sp, 3dc, ch1, 3dc. Repeat this in the next two ch sps. Join with sl st in top of 1st ch3.

You can either carry on with same color or change to a different color.
If you don’t change color, you have to sl st into the next 2 stitches and the chain1 space.

To change color, join new color in with sl st in one of the corners. Ch3, 2dc (working your tail of yarn onto of sts as you go), ch1, 3dc in same corner. 3dc in next ch1 sp. 3dc, ch1, 3dc in next corner. Continue working 3dc in ch1 sp and 3dc, ch1, 3dc in next two corners. Join with sl st in top of 1st ch3.

You can stop here and finish your granny square or continue adding new colors, working in the above pattern, 3dc, ch1, 3dc in first corner, 3dc in ch1 sp.

Grany Triangular Shawl - Written Pattern and Video Tutorial

2012-02-02T18:55:00.004+11:00

Granny Triangular Shawl

Designed by bobwilson123

Converted into written format by Daisy

HUGE thank you to Gail for her wonderful photo's

Also a BIG thank you to Lisa Colon for letting me use her images also

Materials
Yarn of your choice and color
I used 8ply/DK yarn and 4mm hook
Scissors and darning needle

US Terms
DC - Double Crochet
SC - Single Crochet
SL ST - Slip Stitch
SP – Space

Continue adding ch3’s and spaces and make your shawl a long as you like. To finish you could sc a edging or make fringes or leave it plain. You could change colors every row or two or make with variegated yarn or just one color. It’s up to you as you’re the artist.

Ch4, sl st in 4th ch from hook.

Row 1:Ch3 (counts as 1st dc), work 2dc in the ch4 ring. Ch3, turn

Row 2: 2dc in same st as ch3, skip one st and work 3dc in the top of last dc of previous row-- making sure you pick up two loops. Ch3, turn (two sets of 3dc and 1 sp)

Row 3: 2dc in same st as ch3, 3dc in space of previous row. Work 3dc in the top of last dc st of previous row, making sure you pick up two loops. Ch3, turn (three sets of 3dc and 2 sps)

Row 4: 2dc in same st as ch3, 3dc in 1st sp of previous row, 3dc in 2nd sp of previous row, Work 3dc in the top of last dc st of previous row making sure you pick up two loops. Ch3, turn (4 sets of 3dc, and 3 sps)

Row 5: 2dc in same st as ch3, 3dc in 1st , 2nd and 3rd sps, 3dc in in the top of last dc st of previous row, making sure you pick up two loops. Ch3, turn (5 sets of 3dc, and 4 sps)

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Turban Inspired Hat Crochet Tutorial

2012-01-31T13:00:00.001+11:00

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Roy55EZq0Q

Icord - Free written pattern and Video tutorial

2012-01-28T12:29:00.001+11:00

Icord - Can be made to any lengh you need

Great for hats and bags

Design by: bobwilson123

Converted into written form by Dorian

Video Tutorial - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQtTA4g2QqQ

Icord instructions:

Tip: to tighten the icord, pull up on 2^nd loop on hook and then pull 3^rd loop as you work.

a) Ch 3, go into 2^nd ch from hook, pull up loop, go into 3^rd ch, pull up loop.

b) Remove 1^st two loops from hook and hold them.

c) Ch 1, put next loop you’re holding back on hook, ch 1, put last loop you’re holding back on hook, ch 1. You should end up with 3 loops on your hook.

d) Repeat steps b & c until you reach the desired length.

e) Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops to fasten off. Weave in ends.

Free crochet pattern and video tutorial for the Granny on the straight

2012-01-27T21:23:00.003+11:00

Scarf Crochet Tutorial - Granny on the Straight - Variation 1

Created by bobwilson123

Converted into written format by Tammy

Skill level: Beginner+

Stitch abbreviations used in this pattern:

CH – Chain

DC – Double crochet

ST - Stitch
You can use any yarn with the recomended hook
I used 8ply/DK/Sports Weight and a 4mm/G hook
Yarn needle
Scissors

CHANGING COLORS:

To change colors during your project, you do so on the last stitch of your previous row worked.

Do so by completing the first part of your stitch.

Follow here:

To change to another color yarn on last stitch, Yarn over, insert hook into space, yarn over, pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Now loop the new color yarn over your hook and pull through remaining 2 loops on your hook.

Drop previous color used in back of work along with tail of new color yarn and continue on with your pattern. Make sure to pull on your ends a little to secure your work. Remember to weave in your ends, either when all done or you can work over the tails of yarn as soon as you change colors to avoid doing it all later.

Chain multiple: 4

To start, chain in multiples of 4 until you reach your desired width.

Row 1: DC into 4^th chain from the hook. DC again in the same st. CH-1, skip 3 chains, 3DC in next chain, *(CH-1, skip 3 chains, 3DC in next chain)* Repeat from * to * ending with 3DC in last chain space.

Row 2: CH 4 (counts as 1^st DC and CH-1), turn work. 3DC into next chain space, CH-1, *(3DC into chain space, CH-1)* Repeat from * to * ending with 1DC into very last stitch (top of ch-3 from previous row)

**Note: When you START a row with 1DC you END the row with 1DC. Same if you START a row with 3DC you END with 3DC. (Chain 4 is 1 dc + ch)

Row 3: CH 3, work 2DC into chain space, CH-1, *(3DC into chain space, CH-1)* Repeat from * to * across, ending with 3DC. (To give a nice edge, work 2DC into space and 3^rd DC into top of CH-3 from previous row)

Alternate between Row 2 & 3 until you reach the desired length of your scarf.

Crochet Eyelet written pattern and video tutorial

2012-01-27T15:51:00.002+11:00

Crochet Eyelet Beanie with Brim

Designed by Bobwilson123

Converted into written format by Laura

Video tutoral - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmV-d_5KfUk

Hat

Materials :

8ply yarn

4mm crochet hook

Materials Needed:

4ply yarn

5mm crochet hook

Yarn Needle (for sewing in ends)

Stitches Used:

SlSt - Slip Stitch

Ch - Chain

Sc - Single Crochet

Dc - Double Crochet

SPECIAL STITCH: Hdc Dec - Half double crochet decrease: YO, go into st, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), YO, go into next st, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook), YO and pull through all 5 loops.

Starting with a magic circle, or ch5 and join to form a ring.

Rnd 1: Ch3 (counts as first Dc), 11 Dc into the centre of ring. Join to top of ch3.

Rnd 2:Ch3, dc into same st. Ch1, *2dc, ch1, in next st. Repeat from * around. Join to top of ch3.

Rnd 3: Ch3, 2dc in next st, ch1, skip ch1 *dc in next st, 2dc in next st, ch1, skip ch1. Repeat from * around. Join to top of ch3.

Rnd 4: Ch3, dc in next st, 2dc in next st, ch1, skip ch1. *Dc in each of the next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, ch1, skip ch1. Repeat from * around. Join to top of ch3.

Rnd 5: Ch3, dc in each of the next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, ch1, skip ch1. *Dc in each of the next 3 sts, 2dc in next st, ch1, skip ch1. Repeat from * around. Join to top of ch3.

Rnd 6: Ch3, dc in each of the next 3 sts, 2dc in next st, ch1, skip ch1. *Dc in each of the next 4 sts, 2dc in next st, ch1, skip ch1. Repeat from * around. Join to top of ch3.

**Repeat increase rounds for desired size of crown, always increasing as demonstrated above.**

PART 2

**Refer to crown pattern or video for proper crown sizing**

Rnd 7:Ch3, dc in each dc st of previous rnd, ch1, skip 1. *Dc in each dc, ch1, skip ch 1. Repeat from * around. Join to top of ch3.

**Repeat Rnd 7 until the beanie is your desired length down the head.**

**OPTIONAL - If you need to make band around beanie snugger for brim**

Brim Decrease:

Rnd 1:Ch2 *Hdc into each of the next 4sts, hdc dec in next st. Repeat from * around. Join to top of ch2. Repeat this row again if needed.

BRIM - Worked with 2 strands of yarn.

Turn hat so the band is facing you. Lay the hat flat with the current stitch placed one inch or 4 stitches in from the edge. From the opposite edge count back 4 stitches or 1 inch (toward your working stitch) and place a stitch marker.

Brim is worked between the 2 markers

Row 1: Working in row bellow, work *1sc in next stitch, 2 sc in next* repeat from *to* across to marker. Ch1 and turn work. If the stitch count isn’t perfect it’s ok J

Row 2: 1sc in each st across to marker, sc into next st in the row below, slst into the next 2 sts. Ch1 and turn work.

Row 3: *1sc into the next 3 sts, 2sc into the next st. Repeat from * across. Sc into the nest st in the lowest row, slst into the next 2 sts. CH1 and turn work.

Row 4: Sk 1 st, sc into the next st. Sc into each st across. Sc into next st on the lowest row, slst into the next 2st.

Fasten Off And Sew in Ends.

Crochet Rossette Flower - Free written pattern and video tutorial

2012-01-24T14:25:00.000+11:00

ROSETTE FLOWER

Converted into written format by Daisy

Video tutorial - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VGCIUJOfY38

Materials
Crochet Hook

Yarn, color of your choice
Scissors

Darning needle.
Tape measure

Advanced beginner

You could do this flower in any yarn and needle and any length you desire. If you’re going make a few of these Rosette flowers, it’s a good idea to write down how many chains you did and what length they were.

Single crochet or Crab Stitch or Rope Stitch as it is also known as, works from left to right. So you’ll be doing single crochet backwards.

Insert the hook, from front to back, in the next stitch to the right. Making sure the right side of your work is facing you. Yarn Over and draw the yarn through the stitch. Yarn over and draw the yarn through the 2 loops on the hook. One reverse single crochet is now complete.

US Terms
SC - Single Crochet
RSC - Reverse Single Crochet
Ch – Chain

Row 1: Make a slip knot and ch for 60cms or whatever length you wish.

Row 2: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in every ch across, ch1 DO NOT TURN because you will be working backwards

Row 3: Ch1 counts as first sc. RSC across all your sc stitches from row 2 to the end. Fasten off leaving a tail 30 cms long.

Sowing up your flower

Wrap/roll your flower little at a time and sow bottom edge. Sow it every three stitches and through two layers, then wrap a bit more and so on. Every now and then flip your flower over and check top of flower to see if the RSC part is level or how you want it. When you get to the end sew in your ends or leave a tail for attaching to a hat, bag, scarf and I am sure you could find a lot of other items to attach your flower

Crochet Soda Can/Coffee Cup Cozy - Free Written Pattern and video tutorial

2012-01-24T14:01:00.002+11:00

Crochet Soda Can/Coffee Cup Cozy Pattern

By: BobWilson123

Converted into written format by Kelly

Video Tutorial - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7AWoGGx2xU

Materials needed:

Yarn of your choice

Hook size that corresponds to the yarn

Soda can for measurement

Optional: measure tape

Dimensions:

For standard 12oz. can

4inx7.5in or 10cmx19cm

Pattern:

This pattern is using demonstrated using 8ply or sport weight and DK or worsted weight yarn

For the 8ply a G (4.00mm) hook and for worsted a I (5.50mm) hook has been used

The worsted weight will be in brackets – ( )

1. Chain 21(16) or enough to cover can from top to bottom

2. SC into 2^nd chain from hook and across all 20(15) stitches.

3. Ch 1, turn, Sc tbl (through back loop only) on all 20(15) stitches. This will create a ribbed effect that will stretch. (Ch1 does not count as stitch.)

4. Repeat row 3 till cozy is 7.5in (19cm) long or until cozy wraps around can/cup with about 0.5in (1cm) to spare, this will cause cozy to stretch to make it tight around can.

(You can whip stitch or sew ends together)

5. Place RS (Right sides) together and slip stitch sides together evenly, by inserting hook into first stitch on front side to first stitch on back side, work even till stitching is complete.

6. Weave in ends and enjoy!

Crochet Leg warmers - Free Wittern pattern and Video Tutorial

2012-01-24T13:50:00.001+11:00

Leg-warmers in Ribbed Stitch

Converted into written format by Daisy
Video Tutorial - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_ty0MngeRs

EASY Materials

4mm crochet hook
DK/8ply yarn, color of your choice
Scissors, Darning needle
A tape measure
Optional a Stitch Marker

US Terms
SC - Single Crochet
HDC - Half Double Crochet
BLO - Back Loop Only
Ch - Chain
FO - Fasten Off

We will be working this pattern from side to side. Top to bottom of leg in other words.

You need to measure from below your knee to your ankle. You can have it as long as you like remembering it will scrunch down a bit and so you may want to add extra chains when you start. You may if you wish add elastic at the top to keep them up. It’s entirely up to you.

Pattern starts with 10 SC and ends with 10 SC. HDC in the middle.

I would highly recommend reading this pattern BEFORE you start

Make two the same

Row 1: Ch the amount of CH’s you need for the length you want your legwarmer

Row 2: SC in 2nd ch from the hook and the next 9 stitches

You can place an optional stitch marker after last SC.
As you go on in rows you will notice that the hdc is higher than the single crochet and you may be able to see where to change from SC to HDC.

HDC across until you reach your last 10 stitches, mark last HDC if you need to, SC in the next 10 SC to the end. Ch1 turn.

Row 3: SC in to the next 9 stitches in BLO, HDC in BLO in to every HDC, SC in the last 10 SC into BLO, ch1 turn.

Row 4: Repeat row 3 until leg warmer is wide enough to fit around your leg. FO leaving a 30 to 40 cms long tail of yarn for sowing up your edges.

Line up your two SC edges together and whip stitch through the loops edges to join. Finish.