BohoKnitterChic Spins

New Pattern: Water Slide Hat

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Fri, 17 Feb 2017 04:17:00 +0000

Water Slide

By Brittany Wilson

Water Slide is a beanie worked top down in garter stitch with twisted stitch cables. The first few rounds can be a bit tricky to work, but keep with it. It gets easier as your work gets larger. Once you hit the body the hat becomes easy peasy to knit.

It is written in sizes from newborn to large adult, so everyone in the family can have one. Yardage used varies depending on hat length and the size of the pom pom.

MATERIALS

Needles:

US 7/ 4.5 mm double pointed needles, or size to get gauge

US 7/ 4.5 mm 16” circular needle, or size to get gauge

US 5/ 3.75 mm 16” circular needle, or 2 sizes smaller than your larger needle

Notions:

Tapestry needle

1 stitch marker

Yarn:

Knitwhits Freia Handpaints Freia Ombre Sport [100% wool; 217yd/198m per 75g skein] 1 skein

GAUGE-

20 sts/ 32 rows = 4" in garter stitch

SIZING- Newborn (Baby, Toddler, Child/Teen, Adult Medium, Adult Large).

Height: 5 (5.75, 6.75, 7.5, 8.25, 9)”

Circumference: 13 (14.5, 16, 17.5, 19, 20.5”

To Fit Head: 15 (17, 18.75, 20.75, 22.5, 24)”

New Pattern: Wifi Cowl

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Wed, 06 Apr 2016 21:19:00 +0000

WiFi

By Brittany Wilson

Wifi is a simple garter stitch cowl with the addition of short rows that create a striped focal point, but also creates a cowl that is longer in front adding more warmth in the front and less bunching in the back.

I'm always looking for fun ways to use up small amounts of textured handspun yarn and this pattern is suitable for both smooth and textured, handspun and commercial yarn. The fringe is an optional design detail.

MATERIALS

Needles:

US 10/ 6 mm 16-24” circular needle, or size to get gauge

Notions:

Tapestry needle

3 stitch markers, one a different color to indicate the beginning of the round

Crochet Hook for adding fringe

Yarn:

[MC] Super Bulky Single Spun Yarn, 80 yards, 5 WPI. Shown in purple.

[CC] Super Bulky Single Spun Yarn, 40 yards (less if you don’t add fringe), 5 WPI. Shown in magenta.

GAUGE-

10 sts/ 11 ridge bumps = 4" in garter stitch

SIZING- work to desired size or:

Height: 9” down the front (stripe section)

Height: 7” down the back of the neck

Width: 10” across the top of the neck

Width: 13” across the base of the front (the stipe section)

PATTERN NOTES

W&T- Use your preferred Wrap and Turn method. I like the Shadow Wrap technique shown on the Soctopus website: http://socktopus.co.uk/2011/02/05/short-rows-shadow-wraps/

M1- Use your preferred method to make 1 stitch. I use a “bar increase”, shown here: http://www.lionbrand.com/faq/77.html

Adding Fringe- Here is a video tutorial for adding fringe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kfYRfbRSPQk

New Pattern: Freebie

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Sat, 05 Mar 2016 20:20:00 +0000

The Freebie hat was inspired by a beanie I owned years ago. I loved it so much. It was slouchy and cozy, made of wool, a ribbed design that wasn’t bound off at the brim, but had elastic running through the live stitches to give it a very flexible fit.

People often asked me if I had knit it myself. When I replied that I hadn’t I was met with the response “Oh”. You know the Oh- disappointed, slightly pitying because everyone involved thought that you SHOULD have knitted it. They gave the look that I was practically a fraud for wearing a knitted item that I hadn’t knit myself (maybe I’m reading into it too much). In any case, I stopped wearing the hat because I did feel like a fraud, and eventually the hat disappeared.

I miss that hat, so I made my own much cooler hat inspired by the original.

Anyone who has learned to increase and work in the round can make this hat. It’s knit from the top down in 1x1 ribbing and it isn’t bound off, elastic stretch cord is threaded through the live stitches to keep them secure and give a nice stretchy and flexible fit.

Download the pdf here: download now

Freebie

By Brittany Wilson

MATERIALS

Needles:

1 set US 10/6mm double pointed needles

1 set US 10.5 or 10.75/6 or 7mm double pointed needles

1 set US 11/8mm double pointed needles or 16” circular needle

Notions:

- Tapestry needle

- 0.5mm Clear Elastic Stretch Cord (you can usually find it in the jewelry section in a craft store)

Yarn:

Bulky Hand Spun Yarn- 6-7 WPI, 60-80 yards minimum, more if you wish to add a pompom. The sample was knit in a merino blend 3-ply yarn.

GAUGE On largest size needles

14 sts/16 rows = 4" in 1x1 ribbing

SIZING- Can be worked to desired size, hat has a very flexible fit.

Child:

Height: 6.5”

Width: 7” laying flat at brim, slightly cinched by elastic thread.

Adult Sample size shown:

Height: 8.5”

Width: 9” laying flat at brim, slightly cinched by elastic thread.

PATTERN NOTES

Sizing: One size fits most children/adults. Sizing can vary based on the relaxed sizing of the pattern.

Repeat Instructions: When instructions occur within ( ) or [ ] followed by a number to repeat, you will repeat the instructions between the ( ) or [ ] that number of times.

ABBREVIATIONS USED:

CO- Cast On

STS- Stitches

BO- Bind Off

YO- Yarn Over

K- Knit

P- Purl

TBL- Through Back Loop

PATTERN

All sizes: Using size 10 needles and Long-Tail Cast On, CO 6 sts. Place marker and join work into the round.

Round 1: (K1, YO) around- 12 sts

Round 2: (K1, K1TBL) around

Round 3: (K2, YO) around- 18 sts

Round 4: (K2, K1TBL) around

Round 5-6: Repeat Rounds 3-4- 27 sts

On the next round, switch to size 10.5 or 10.75 needles.

Round 7: (K3, YO) around- 36 sts

Round 8: (K1, P1, K1, P1TBL) around

Round 9: (K1, P1, K1, YO, P1, K1, P1, YO) around- 48 sts

Round 10: (K1, P1, K1, K1TBL, P1, K1, P1, P1TBL) around

Round 11: [K1, P1, K1, YO, (K1, P1) 2 times, YO, P1] around- 60 sts

Round 12: [K1, P1, K1, P1TBL, (K1, P1) 2 times, K1TBL, P1] around

On the next round, switch to size 11 needles.

For child size continue to body instructions.

Adult:

Round 13: [K1, P1, K1, YO, (P1, K1) 2 times, P1, YO, K1, P1] around- 72 sts

Round 14: [K1, P1, K1, K1TBL, (P1, K1) 2 times, P1, P1TBL, K1, P1] around

Round 15: [K1, P1, K1, YO, (K1, P1) 3 times, YO, P1, K1, P1] around- 84 sts

Round 16: [K1, P1, K1, P1TBL, (K1, P1) 3 times, K1TBL, P1, K1, P1] around

Body:

Continue working in K1, P1 ribbing until hat reaches 8.5”, you run out of yarn or reach the desired length.

FINISHING

Secure yarn end and weave in ends.

Measure the circumference of your head and cut 2 strands of elastic thread 2” longer than that measurement. Thread elastic through your live stitches, they will act as your “bind off”. Tie each strand together separately, as tightly as is comfortable for you. You are using 2 strands in case 1 breaks, that way you still have a strand holding your sts together. Weave in elastic ends as you would yarn ends.

I wet blocked my hat and formed it over a kitchen mixing bowl to dry so that there wouldn’t be any creases, but you may block your hat however you desire.

Pompoms are optional, but if I had had extra yarn I would have made one.

New Pattern: Rise and Fall

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Fri, 15 Jan 2016 22:56:00 +0000

Rise and Fall

By Brittany Wilson

Rise and Fall is created using an undulating chevron stitch pattern and a gradient in both color and shape, which makes the design both interesting to knit and to look at.

Skills just beyond the basics are needed. You will be working increases, decreases, and carrying your yarn along one edge of your work to create this chevron bias triangle shawl. The pattern is both written and charted.

Notions:

Tapestry needle
Lace blocking pins

Yarn:
MC- Fleece Artist Blue Face Leicester Socks 80/20 BFL wool/nylon; 355y/325m per 115g skein; color: Cezanne; 1 skein

Knitwhits Freia Handpaints Freia Ombre Fingering 75/25 wool/nylon; 322y/294m per 75g skein; color: Mint Julep; 1 skein

GAUGE
24 sts/40 rows = 4” in garter stitch, unblocked

SIZING
Width: 70 inches
Height: 16 inches

New Pattern: Ladder

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Sun, 28 Jun 2015 17:21:00 +0000

Ladder

by Brittany Wilson

Ladder features a cable and eyelet design that increases on one half and decreases on the other half to create 3 different designs depending on which angle you are looking from.

Skills included in this pattern are eyelets, 2x2 cables, and central double decreases (mitered decrease). This is the perfect design if you are looking to learn a few new skills or looking for a fun one skein project. It’s also amazing for handspun yarn.

MATERIALS

Needles: 16-20 inch US #8/5mm circular needle

Notions:

- Tapestry needle

- 2 stitch markers of different colors

- cable needle

Yarn:

Handmaiden Fine Yarn Casbah Silk [75/15/10 wool/silk/cashmere; 180y/165m per 100g skein]; color: Hibiscus; 1 skein

GAUGE

18 sts/22 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch

SIZING

Height: 8.5"

Circumference: 20”

Frolic Shawl KAL!

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Fri, 05 Dec 2014 17:00:00 +0000

In honor of my latest knitting pattern collection, The Frolic Shawl Collection, I am hosting a KnitALong in my Ravelry Group. The KAL starts December 15th, will run through January 31st, 2015 and there will be random prize drawings for all who finish their shawls during the KAL. Head over to Ravelry for all of the details.

As if you needed another reason to join in the fun, The Frolic Shawl Collection and individual patterns are 20% off now through December 14th, no code needed! The patterns are already marked down to $4 each, or $8 for the collection and on December 15th they will be marked at their regular prices: $5 each and the collection will be $10.

New Pattern: Lapidary

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Thu, 04 Dec 2014 16:51:00 +0000

Lapidary

By Brittany Wilson

Buy the single pattern:

Buy the 3 pattern collection:

The Frolic Shawl Collection contains 3 patterns designed using Sunrise Fiber Co’s Frolic Sport. Gambol and Yosemite were also written in single color fingering weight versions.

Lapidary is featured in the December 2014 Indie KnitCrate!

Lapidary involves the engraving, cutting, or polishing of stones or gems and the slipped stitch and elongated stitches of this pattern remind me of the faceting of gemstones. The pattern is created with stripes, slipped stitches, and elongated stitches through droppings stitches- the whole concept also known as mosaic knitting. For an extra polished finish a border is picked up around the body of the shawl and picot bind off is worked.

MATERIALS

Needles:

1 US 2/2.75mm 40” circular needle

1 US 4/3.5mm 40” circular needle

Additional size 4 needles to help work sharp corners on the border if desired.

Notions:

3 stitch markers

Tapestry needle

Yarn:

[MC] Sunrise Fiber Co Frolic Sport [Superwash Merino, 328yd/300m per 100g skein] 1 skein; color: Garnet Cloisonné

[CC] Sunrise Fiber Co Frolic Sport [Superwash Merino, 328yd/300m per 100g skein] 1 skein; color: Iris in the Fog

GAUGE on smaller needles. Gauge is not crucial, measurements taken after blocking.

28 sts/40 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch

18 sts/ 34 rows = 4" in pattern stitch

SIZING- work to desired size or:

Height at deepest point: 15”

Wingspan: 57”

PATTERN NOTES

Lapidary is worked on the bias and the colorwork is created with stripes and slipped stitches. Once the body is complete (the right edge will be messy, but is covered when working the border), stiches are picked up around the entire body of the shawl and a picot border is worked.

New Pattern: Yosemite

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Thu, 04 Dec 2014 16:46:00 +0000

Yosemite

By Brittany Wilson

Buy the single pattern:

Buy the 3 pattern collection:

The Frolic Shawl Collection contains 3 patterns designed using Sunrise Fiber Co’s Frolic Sport. Gambol and Yosemite were also written in single color fingering weight versions.

The hike to Upper Yosemite Falls in Yosemite National Park has a section of switchbacks that seem daunting, but lead to the most incredible views and amazing waterfall. This shawl is composed of it’s own switchbacks, in lace form, zig zagging back and forth as the shawl grows and grows. It’s comprised of 8 row repeats, and while written out in a certain repetition, they can be modified to create your own custom zig-zag pattern.

MATERIALS

Needles:

Sport Weight Version:

US 7/ 4.5 mm needles

Fingering Weight Version:

US 6/ 4 mm needles

Notions:

Tapestry needle

Blocking wires and pins, if desired

Yarn:

Two Color Sport Weight Version:

[MC] Sunrise Fiber Co Frolic Sport [Superwash Merino, 328yd/300m per 100g skein] 1 skein; color: Electric Indigo

[CC] Sunrise Fiber Co Frolic Sport [Superwash Merino, 328yd/300m per 100g skein] 1 skein; color: Jelly Bean

Fingering Weight One Color Version:

Handmaiden Fine Yarn Casbah Sock [80/10/10 Merino/Cashmere/Nylon, 355yds/325m per 115g] 1 skein; color: Amber

GAUGE- is not crucial

Sport Weight Version:

19 sts/ 26 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch

Fingering Weight Version:

21 sts/ 28 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch

SIZING- work to desired size or:

Sport Weight Version:

Height at deepest point: 21”

Wingspan: 96”

Fingering Weight Version:

Height at deepest point: 18”

Wingspan: 86”

PATTERN NOTES

This shawl is worked on the bias from one corner to the opposite edge. The chevron zig-zag is created by alternating between two different charts and the number of times you repeat the charts increases as the shawl gets larger.

New Pattern: Gambol

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Thu, 04 Dec 2014 16:39:00 +0000

Gambol

By Brittany Wilson

Buy the single pattern:

Buy the 3 pattern collection:

The Frolic Shawl Collection contains 3 patterns designed using Sunrise Fiber Co’s Frolic Sport. Gambol and Yosemite were also written in single color fingering weight versions.

Gambol, to run or jump about playfully, seemed like the perfect name for a shawl designed in a yarn called Frolic. This design is worked from one side to the other, switching direction in the middle creating a V shape in the center. After the body is complete, yarn overs around the edge of the shawl are picked up and a lace border is worked.

MATERIALS

Needles:

Sport Weight Version:

US 6 4mm 20-60” circular needle

Additional size 6 circular needle to help work the border if desired.

Fingering Weight Version:

US 5 4mm 20-60” circular needle

Additional size 5 circular needle to help work the border if desired.

Notions:

Tapestry needle

8-10 stitch markers, preferably 2 locking

Kitchen scale- helpful if you plan to customize

Blocking Wires and Pins

Yarn:

Two Color Sport Weight Version:

[MC] Sunrise Fiber Co Frolic Sport [Superwash Merino, 328yd/300m per 100g skein] 1 skein; color: Glacier

[CC] Sunrise Fiber Co Frolic Sport [Superwash Merino, 328yd/300m per 100g skein] 1 skein; color: Black Pearl. Less than half a skein used for the sample shawl.

Fingering Weight One Color Version:

Fleece Artist Blue Face Leicester 2/8 [BFL Wool, 546yd/499m per 125g skein] 1 skein; color: Brick. Approx 105 g, or 458 yards, used for the sample shawl. 2 additional repeats of the Left and Right Leaning Straight Sections could be worked using a single skein.

GAUGE- is not crucial. Gauge taken after blocking.

Sport Weight Version:

20 sts/ 30 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch

Fingering Weight Version:

22 sts/ 32 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch

SIZING- work to desired size or:

Sport Weight Version:

Height at deepest point: 16”

Wingspan: 71”

Fingering Weight Version:

Height at deepest point: 17”

Wingspan: 82”

PATTERN NOTES

This shawl is worked sideways and then stitches are picked up all around the edge to create the border. Yarn overs are created along the edge of the body to make picking up for the border easier and to create a nice frame around the body. This pattern is easily customizable to any weight of yarn and for a variety of repeats of the increase and straight sections.

New Pattern: Three Way Stop

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Wed, 20 Aug 2014 15:37:00 +0000

Three Way Stop

Pleating is a universal garment shaping technique. You will see it in many different fabrics, both sewn and knit. It can be used to create a swishy skirt, add a little extra room to pants, or some extra shaping to sweaters.

I’ve created a hat design that incorporates a traditional box pleat as a way to decrease the crown, and I also used a technique that I call a reverse box pleat to add volume and shape to the body of the hat. It is a slouchy hat that comes in two adult sizes.

Techniques Used:

Box and Reverse Pleat: Detailed picture tutorial included.
Central Double Decrease- aka Mitered Decrease.

MATERIALS

Needles:

- 16 inch US 4/3.5mm circular needle

- 16 inch US 5/3.75mm circular needle

- 1 set US 5/3.75mm double-point needles

Notions:

- 1 stitch marker

- tapestry needle

Yarn:

Fleece Artist Woolie Silk 3-Ply [65/35 wool/silk; 251/230m per 100g skein]; color: smoke; 1 skein

GAUGE

24 sts/32rows = 4" in stockinette stitch on larger needle

SIZING

Brim: 16[18] inches

Height: 8[9] inches

To Fit Head Circumference: 20[22] inches

New Pattern: Vintage Fringe

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Mon, 07 Jul 2014 19:27:00 +0000

Vintage Fringe

By Brittany Wilson

I was greatly inspired by fun, vintage pom pom fringe that you often see edging pillows, curtains, lampshades, and anything else that you can put a fringe on- but all I could find was a crochet version of the fringe. I made several attempts to learn crochet just so I could make this fringe, and I failed every time, so I decided to create my own knit version.

The Vintage Fringe Scarf is created by first working the body of the scarf, a wide scarf that incorporates short rows to make it deeper in the center. The fringe is then worked in a smaller gauge yarn by picking up stitches along the edge and creating the fun bobbles. The pattern has a picture tutorial for the fringe edging.

This pattern is not suitable for a new knitter and it definitely an intermediate pattern that requires a little bit of fancy fingerwork at times on two double pointed needles. Skills needed for this pattern include short rows, I-cord, picking up stitches, and joining bits of knitting together.

MATERIALS

Needles:

1 pair US #10/6mm straight or circular needles

1 pair US #8/5mm straight or circular needles

1 set US #6/4mm double pointed needles (you only need 2 of them)

Notions:

- Tapestry needle

- Blocking Pins and Wires (handy but not required)

Yarn:

[MC]Handmaiden Fine Yarn Smitten [80% wool, 20% silk; 202yd/185m per 100g skein] 1 skein; color: Radiant Orchid

[CC] Handmaiden Fine Yarn Silken [100%Silk; 273yd/250m per 100g skein] 1 skein; color: Ivory

GAUGE (gauge is not crucial)

17 sts/20 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch, unblocked, using MC and size 10 needles.

12 sts/22 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch, blocked, using MC and size 10 needles.

SIZING

Height, including fringe: 10”

Length: 110”

Yarn choices:
The body of the scarf is worked in Handmaiden Fine Yarn Smitten, a wool/silk blend in a worsted weight. I used almost the entire skein.

The fringe of the scarf is worked in Handmaiden Fine yarn Silken, a silk yarn in a DK weight. I used about 3/4 of the skein.

You can easily switch up the types of yarns you use. If you want a heavier draped scarf, use a silk yarn for the body. For a lightweight and bouncy scarf, use wool for the whole thing.

This pattern has been test knit, but not tech edited. Please notify me if you find any mistakes.

Chick Hatch-Along Part 2: Incubating Week 1

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Sat, 05 Apr 2014 20:00:00 +0000

The first few days of running the incubator were a bit stressful. I wasn't very confident in what I was doing and I was nervous because, well, I've never had a part in creating life before. Seems like something that should be taken seriously.

I chose my office as the place to set it up because it was lower traffic and I thought I would be able to keep the temperature in the room stable with a space heater. Not true at all. The room was fluctuating by 20 degrees throughout the day/night and I couldn't get it to balance out. It was affecting the temperature inside the incubator and it's really important to keep it between 100-102 at the tops of the eggs, any higher and it could kill the embryos.

It got to frustrating so I ended up moving the incubator into the kitchen. That way the dogs/cats couldn't get to it, the temperature in the room never fluctuated more than 5 degrees and I could check on it frequently. After that it was smooth sailing. There were still hot and cool spots in the incubator because there wasn't a fan circulating the air, but the lowest was 99.5 and the highest was 103.2, with most of it in the right range.

At Day 7 I got to candle all of the eggs. Candling mean shining a light through one end of the egg in a dark room to see what was going on inside. You can buy a fancy egg candler but I made one out of a small flashlight and a toilet paper tube.

At Day 7 you can see a small spot with veins coming out of it. It looks like a spider. That's the baby chicken starting to develop! White eggs are the easiest to look into, but we have brown and green eggs so they can be a bit challenging to see into.

This one is a normal egg. You can see the air sac at the bottom of the egg, the embryo above it, and veins spidering out from there.

This one turned out to be unfertilized. The yolk moves around in the egg and there didn't appear to be any development.

Unfortunately quite a few of the green eggs from my flock ended up to not have been fertilized. I culled 7 eggs and I think 4 more are also unfertilized but they are hard to see in so I'm waiting until Day 14 to be sure.

I candled again at Day 10 and could see more development in the eggs. Right now of 47 eggs I can see development in 32 of them, 7 were culled, 4 have shells to thick to see in, and 4 I'm pretty sure are infertile but I'm waiting a few more days to make sure.

Here is one that is developing really well.

Chick Hatch-Along Part 1: Getting Started

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Mon, 31 Mar 2014 16:18:00 +0000

A month or so ago I decided that I wanted to try hatching some baby chicks this spring. I was really hoping that I could get a hen to hatch eggs herself because it's much easier. She does all the work and then when the babies hatch she protects them from the other chickens who may want to kill them.

The only problem with that idea is that the chickens don't always, ok never, do what I want when I want it. In order to hatch chicks a hen has to go "broody", it's a chickens version of going into heat. She develops the instinct to sit on the nest and not leave it for at least 21 days- the time it takes for chicks to hatch. She gets all puffed up, makes strange noises, and pecks at you any time you try to take the eggs from underneath her.

I had read that you can sometimes trick a hen into going broody by putting unfertilized eggs, easter eggs, or golf balls in a nest and increase the number of eggs in the next until there are enough that a hen wants to sit on them. I started doing this in January- right when we had a really, really cold spell. All the store bought eggs froze and cracked. So I waited a few weeks until easter eggs showed up in stores. I found some white ones and I started adding them to the nest. All the hens decided they liked laying in that nest, but didn't want to sit.

I finally got impatient and decided to take matters into my own hands. I was determined to get chicks this spring, with or without a hen! I bought the book Hatching and Brooding Your Own Chicks and started shopping around for an incubator that I would need to hatch chicks myself. I didn't realize how pricey incubators were, so I put feelers out to see if we knew anyone who had an incubator.

Two people lent us incubators and we decided to use the smaller one that had a self turner and a large picture window so we could see the hatch. Chicken eggs need to be rotated about 3 times a day, as they would be under a mother hen as she shifts around to make sure she's keeping all of her eggs warm, so the self turner is very helpful. The incubator is a Little Giant Still Air Incubator. The other option would be a forced air incubator, or one that circulates the air. They are more desirable because they keep the temperature more constant, but they are much more expensive. If you are handy you can make a fan for the still air incubator out of an old computer fan, but I'm not that savvy so I'm going to see how the still air works on it's own.

I did lots of research online about how to operate a still air incubator, read the book I had purchased and realized that while I had learned a lot, I pretty much know nothing is certain when incubating eggs. The incubator should be set up in a room with a relatively constant temperature varying no more than 5 degrees because it can affect the temperature inside the incubator. It should stay out of direct sunlight so you don't cook your eggs. The temperature at the top of the eggs in a still air incubator should be between 100-102 degrees, so I set up a thermometer on top of the eggs, and have 2 digital thermometers to stick down in the vent holes to take temps with periodically. The humidity in the first stages of incubating should be between 50-70% according to most sources, but another source said 30-40%, so I purchased an IncuTherm Plus Hatch Monitor (hygrometer/thermometer). I also cut a sponge in half and saturated it with water in addition to the water rings inside the incubator because I read that can help draw up the humidity to the top of the eggs.

Eggs put in the incubator should be clean (but don't wash them), free of shell imperfections like cracks or thin shells, and a shape where it is easy to tell the rounded end from the narrow pointy end to make sure the rounded end with the air sac ends up at the top when placed in the incubator.

We were so lucky- one of the women who lent us an incubator also gave us 23 eggs from her flock. She has a mix of Ameraucana, Buff Orpingtons, Golden Wyandottes and Silver Laced Wyandottes. One rooster is a Buff Orpington but all of the others are Ameracuana crosses (Easter Eggers). I can't wait to see the mix we get! We also collected eggs from our flock- we have an Ameraucana cross rooster and a variety of easter egger hens (crosses between Rhode Island Red, Marans, Araucana and Ameraucuana) and 5 Production Red/White Leghorn crosses. We collected eggs over 5 days and kept the eggs waiting to be incubated in our cool laundry room, about 60 degrees. I read that keeping them cool and humid (but not refrigerated) while collecting, and collecting for 7 days or less, gives them the best chance of hatchability. You can collect for up to 14 days, the hatch rate may go down and they may take a little longer than 21 days to hatch.

I ran the incubator for a day and got the temperature stable before adding 47 eggs to it on March 24th. Hatch day should be 21ish days later, or April 14th. Just in time for Easter!

Next up: Week 1 of running the Incubator.

New Pattern: Frisson

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Fri, 07 Feb 2014 01:00:00 +0000

Frisson

by Brittany Wilson

Cold winter months can go on and on, seemingly without end, until that moment when hope is restored by trees and plants pushing out their leaves towards to early springtime sun. If you’re like me, you wait very impatiently for this sign that the warm months are just around the corner.

Frisson is that moment of excitement and joy that it will soon be time for sandals and sundresses. This lightweight bias shawl can even be knit as an advent calendar for spring; the lace sections grow and grow right along with your anticipation for the warmer months of the year.

SIZE

One Size

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Width: 78 inches
Height: 13 inches

MATERIALS

Handmaiden Fine Yarn [50/50 merino/silk; 546y/500m per 100g skein]; color: Berry; 1 skein

32” length-inch US #5/3.75mm circular needle, or desired length for working a shawl.

Notions Required

tapestry needle

GAUGE

24 sts/48 rows = 4" in garter stitch, unblocked

PATTERN NOTES

Bind Off: The bind off for this pattern is done purlwise as follows: [P2Tog, slip stitch back to left-hand needle]- repeat until desired numbers of stitches are bound off. Be careful not to bind off to tightly, you will want some flexibility when blocking the shawl.

Brackets on Row 2 and other WS rows: (k1,p1) into double yo indicates that you will knit into the loop of the first yo and purl into the loop of the second yo.

FedEx Small Business Grant Contest

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Thu, 23 Jan 2014 14:46:00 +0000

I’ve entered the FedEx Small Business Grant contest and in order to proceed to the next round I have to collect votes. Could you all help me and vote for me? It will only take a second of your time. It would mean the world to me! And I guess you can vote once a day until February 23rd, so maybe check back and vote again if you think of it.

And if you’re really excited for me to win- maybe share this link with any friends who you think might be interested in helping?

Link to my FexEx Small Business Page.

Thank you all so much for your help!

New Pattern: Tiara Tam

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Wed, 06 Nov 2013 17:23:00 +0000

A design made for a princess and a yarn that’s fit for a queen- what more could a woman want? This tam/beret design incorporates simple cables and eyelets to mimic a tiara around the brim and 8 diamonds around the crown and is worked in a luxurious yarn that is suitable for any occasion or season.

Check out the Ravelry Pattern Page to get it for Free Through November 7th, 2013 11:59pm GMT.

MATERIALS

Needles:

1 US #2/2.75mm 16” circular needles

1 US #3/3.25mm 16” circular needles

1 set US #3/3.25mm double pointed needles

Notions:

- Tapestry needle

- 1 stitch marker

Yarn:

Handmaiden Fine Yarn Swiss Mountain Cashmere and Silk [65% cashmere, 35% silk; 196yd/180m per 50g skein] 1 skein; color: Vermillion

GAUGE

32 sts/34 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch on size 3’s

SIZING

With piece laying flat after blocking. It stretches about 1.5” with blocking:

Width across the crown: 10.5 (12.5)”

Width across brim opening: 4.5”

Fits an adult head. The Brim is stretchy.

Skills in this pattern above and beyond the basics (instructions included):

Cabling without a cable needle (twisting stitches)
Central Double Decreases

A Regal Color Palette

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Wed, 11 Sep 2013 20:38:00 +0000

I dyed up some tussah silk yesterday for a few projects, but shouldn't these all be put together into a project? Such a gorgeous and regal colorway.

Sunflower Garden

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Mon, 09 Sep 2013 18:42:00 +0000

Just in time for the end of summer, our small collection of giant sunflowers bloomed this past week. It's so nice looking out the kitchen window and seeing all shades of sunflowers and wildflowers together lining our driveway.

Bomber also loves to run around them to try and sneak up on birds and butterflies.

German Chocolate Cake Ice Cream

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Sun, 08 Sep 2013 18:39:00 +0000

Earlier this year I got my new favorite toy, a Cuisinart Ice Cream Maker. With the help of two awesome books, Sweet Cream and Sugar Cones and Jeni's Splendid Ice Creams At Home, I started with simple Strawberry Buttermilk Sherbert and was soon making gourmet ice cream like Goat Cheese with Apricot Jam.

I've recently gained enough confidence in ice cream making to try out my own combinations, and the most successful so far is definitely the German Chocolate Cake Ice Cream. Below is my recipe. You will need a 1.5 quart ice cream maker (and this recipe really will fill it to the brim), and a basic knowledge of how to make ice cream.

This is Betty, or as Brian likes to call her "Big Mouth Betty", because she sure does
let you know when she's running with constant hum that goodies are on their way.

German Chocolate Cake Ice Cream

Ice Cream Ingredients:
- 6 egg yolks
- 1 cup sugar
- 1/3 cup dutch processed cocoa powder
- 1 cup 1% milk
- 2 cups half and half
- 1/4 tsp salt
- 1 1/2 tsp vanilla
- 8oz 1/3 less fat cream cheese, softened

Coconut Caramel Swirl Ingredients:
- 3/4 cup toasted coconut (I toasted my own on a baking sheet in the oven under the broiler for a couple of minutes)
- 3/4 cup brown sugar
- 3 tbsp water
- 1 tbsp butter
- 1/8 tsp cinnamon
- 1/2 tsp vanilla

Making the Ice Cream:

Prep:
1. In a medium heat proof bowl whisk the egg yolks and 1/2 cup of sugar together. Set aside.
2. In a medium heat proof bowl whisk the cream cheese until smooth.

Make the base:
1. In a heavy nonreactive saucepan, combine the cocoa powder with the remaining sugar. Whisk in 1/4 cup of milk to make a paste until smooth and uniform. Don't add the milk all at once or your cocoa powder will be lumpy. Whisk in the remaining milk, cream, and salt and put the pan over medium-high heat. When the mixture reaches a bare simmer, or 180 degrees, reduce the heat.
2. Scoop out about 1/2 cup of the cream mixture and, while constantly whisking egg mixture, add the 1/2 cup of cream mixture to the egg mixture. Repeat this step once more. Carefully pour the egg mixture back into the pot of hot cream mixture.
3. Cook the mixture over medium heat, stirring constantly, until it has slightly thickened, about 1-2 minutes.
4. Whisk the hot cream mixture into the cream cheese. You can put the mixture through a fine mesh strainer for a super duper smooth texture, but I didn't find this to be necessary. Set the bowl in an ice water bath, or put it in the fridge. Allow to completely cool, 2 hours or overnight. I like to make my mixture in the morning and freeze it in the afternoon.

Making the Coconut Caramel Swirl.
1. In a small saucepan stir together the sugar and water. Turn heat to medium and stir constantly until the sugar has dissolved. Stop stirring the mixture and watch for the mixture to turn a deep amber color.
2. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter, cinnamon and vanilla.
3. Allow to cool slightly and stir in the coconut.

You will want the mixture to be cool, but not harden before adding it to the ice cream. Once it is layered with the ice cream it will become slightly more liquid and any hardening will go away.

Freezing the Ice Cream:
1. Add the vanilla to the ice cream base.
2. Freeze according to your ice cream makers instructions. Make sure it gets really thick before removing it from the ice cream maker for the smoothest texture.
3. As you take the finished ice cream and put it in a freezer container layer the coconut caramel swirl and the ice cream, but don't mix them together. Make sure to put a little of the coconut caramel swirl in the bottom of the container and reserve a little for the top too.

Designer Madness

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Sun, 01 Sep 2013 17:00:00 +0000

After lots of deliberating, scheming, sketching, swatching, procrastinating, and researching, a final burst of creative energy and verbal pushing from a few friends has helped me get to the point where I can share my next idea with the world: my first knitting pattern collection. What makes it special? All of the patterns will be written specifically for hand spun yarn.

This certainly isn't the first set of patterns written for hand spun, and I know it won't be the last, but it is special and unique in that I get the opportunity to put my love of color and texture into (hopefully) easy to follow instructions for daring and bold fiber artists.

There are 3 great challenges for this project:
- Designing patterns that are easy to follow, but challenging enough that they're worth paying money for.
- Finding a way to meld a pattern with bold yarn (one or the other or both should shine, not overpower and drown out the other).
- Find the time for all the testing, typing, tech editing, photographing and formatting that goes into making this work.

Luckily, I have found a great group of knitters willing to test and critique my patterns in my Ravelry Group (head over there and join in the fun!) and that definitely helps keep me working. It's very easy to get overwhelmed or distracted and give up or move on, drawing out the work and seeing the finish line get further and further away. I'd love to have this done by November, but knowing me it will be some time before next spring.

How could I get overwhelmed when I keep all my designing ideas all nice and organized?

Click on the picture for a more up close and personal look at my yarn inspiration.

The best time of year is coming!

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Sun, 01 Sep 2013 04:31:00 +0000

I love Fall, and by the looks of my pumpkins, it's almost here! The sugar pie pumpkins ended up really small this year, and there are only about 1 per plant (so maybe 7 in total?), but I'm hoping to get at least a pie and a couple of loaves of bread out of them.

The acorn squash on the other hand, they are out of control. This one here is almost the size of my head, and every time I lift up a leaf I see a new squash growing. I'm pretty sure anyone who comes to our house this fall will leave with an acorn squash and a dozen eggs.

Tour De Fleece 2013 Finish Line!

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Sat, 31 Aug 2013 06:49:00 +0000

Tour De Fleece is a way for fiber arts fanatics to feel like they're part of something big, like the Tour De France. Only for us, it's less about sweating and cycling great distances and more about spinning lots of awesome yarn.

This year I didn't spin as often as I had hoped, the tour always seems to fall when I'm on vacation or have visitors, but I did manage to spin up a few yarns and some fibers I've had in my stash for way to long.

My final tally: 4552 yards and 2.37 pounds spun. Not to shabby.

I spun whenever I could, even out in the chicken yard.

Left to Right, Top to Bottom: boucle made of superfine merino, bamboo, and Fleece Artist kid mohair, fingering weight superwash BFL (2 skeins), aran weight 2-ply made of superfine merino, bamboo, and angelina, a super bulky extreme thick and thin polwarth single, and a super duper huge and bulky 2-ply alpaca.

And just so you understand just how big that alpaca yarn is, here is my moderately cooperative model, Bomber.

Fiber Arts Cruise

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Thu, 29 Aug 2013 15:00:00 +0000

I've been on quite a few fiber arts vacations, but I'm pretty sure my most recent trip, the Friends and Fiberworks Fantasy Fiber Arts Knitting Cruise to the Bahamas was one of the most elaborate. I was fortunate enough to get trapped on a boat with 3 of my favorite fibers artists; Esther of Jazzturtle Creations, Liz of Reckless Knitting, and Vithard of Vithard Nordic Knitting for 5 days.

From left to right: Liz, Me, Vithard, Esther

The at sea days were filled with classes, cocktails, knitting, eating, and hot tubs. It was pretty awesome. I mean, where else do you get to take a fiber prep class with Esther and have a fruity blended drink in your hand the whole time?

Our workstation at the end of class.

Knitting with Vithard after a dip in the hot tub.

We really did take our knitting everywhere, even to the fancy "Captain's Dinner". This is a great shot, click on it to make it bigger.

Liz and I had a blast together on excursions in Nassau and Freeport, snorkeling and touring around, and our time in Charleston, SC was almost more fun than the cruise. That city is so fun, colorful, and full of history. I highly recommend it to anyone who wants to visit a southern city with lots of charm.

Happy Hens

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Wed, 28 Aug 2013 07:00:00 +0000

I realized I never introduced the newest members of our farm family! How rude. Back in June I got really impatient waiting for eggs. The chicks were still a couple of months away from laying and July was the month of family visitors. How could I let my family visit the farm without providing them with farm fresh eggs?!

I realized I just couldn't, so I kept my eye on Craigslist for already laying hens and just happened to luck out and find someone less than 5 miles away from me who was selling White Leghorn/Production Red x hens. If you know anything about Montana then you know that it was a miracle! No one ever lives that close to you and has what you want. They call it Big Sky Country for a reason. Your neighbors could be 20 miles away, let alone someone who posted a Craigslist ad for chickens.

We decided to bring home 5 hens and per the recommendation of every article online, including one written on Backyard Chickens, we put them in quarantine in the horse stall in the back of the property. Most articles recommend a month long quarantine to watch for disease and any other problems that might be passed on to your existing flock.

Happy new hens in "quarantine".

I, of course, was impatient and only waited a week to start the introduction process. I wanted to integrate the flock before I went on vacation so I knew that everyone was getting along and the people keeping an eye on them wouldn't have to deal with the "pecking order" getting a little to rough.

I treated them all for mites just in case and then put the two flocks where they could see each other, but not have full contact with each other. The first few days were hard because our rooster Jinx kept biting the new hens combs and making them bleed. I had to put an extra barrier of chicken wire between them so he couldn't get his whole head through the fence. None of the other chickens seemed to have a problem so I had to wait it out until Jinx calmed down. After a few days I removed the extra chicken wire and let them get closer, and then a few more days later I removed the barrier fence all together and let them free range together.

I expected to have to sit out with them all day and play interference but I was pleasantly surprised when they all happily clucked and scratched and foraged together like they'd been together all along. And the best part- we started getting eggs a day after bringing the new hens home!

In the beginning of August we did unfortunately loose one of the young hens, Kiwi, to an infection of her vent (I think she had what is called "gleet", only google it if you want to see really gross pictures) when she was coming into lay. She developed the infection while I was away and by the time I was home it was to infected to treat. It was very sad, but she needed to be put down, and there was a chance that she had a problem with her reproductive system that never could have been helped.

Gardening Efforts

noreply@blogger.com (Bohoknitterchic) — Wed, 28 Aug 2013 05:40:00 +0000

I really wish that springtime lasted longer. Before I had much time to think it was summer, the weather was hot, and what starters I had managed to start needed to be in the ground.

We ended up fighting with weeds constantly and ran out of time to plant much in the big garden space in the front of the property, so I crammed as many plants in an old burn pile dirt patch as I could. I know I overcrowded the squash, but that hasn't stopped the zucchini, cucumbers, acorn squash, sugar pumpkins and butternut squash from spreading over every inch of space available. The funniest thing about it all- zucchini and cucumber are Brian's least favorite vegetables and they turned out to be the most plentiful this season. I even had to tear out the cucumber plants early because I couldn't use them all and couldn't find anyone to take the extras (they all had their own to deal with or didn't like making pickles).

June 23, 2013

I went away for 10 days in July, right as the plants started producing, and told the neighbors to eat whatever they wanted from the garden. They couldn't have picked much because this is what I came home to!

And here is the garden on August 3, 2013. We've made a few changes since; pulled out some unproductive plants and let the others take over. Some mystery squash seeds I got from a coworker of Brian's ended up being acorn squash, so now I have 8 acorn squash plants. That is way more than 2 people need! We will have plenty to share.

My gardening efforts this year were definitely less than I had expected, and maybe I did in fact bite off more than I could chew. But, considering I didn't fertilize, occasionally let the weeds take over, and sometimes would forget to water, the garden did pretty darn well- and it's not winter squash season quite yet.