The Manaslu Circuit Trek is among the least crowded routes in Nepal, often regarded as one of the country’s most unspoiled and authentic trekking experiences. This trek leads through a fascinating mix of wilderness, rich culture, and adventure at high elevations around Mount Manaslu, the world’s eighth-tallest peak at 8,163 meters.

This walk is not only about the landscape, but it’s also about the isolation. The Manaslu region is also under restricted area regulations so the number of trekkers is limited compared to the heavily visited trails like Everest Base Camp or Annapurna Circuit. For this reason, the trip is soothing, intimate, and engaging.

Why the Manaslu Circuit Trek is different

There are lots of trekking routes that offer views of the mountains, but with the Manaslu Circuit, you get something more complex. It provides a natural progression from sub-tropical forests and river valleys through to alpine and glacial areas. This constant change of landscape provides a lively, ever-changing experience with no two days ever being the same.

Its true secret is the synergy of parts that come together spontaneously

• Trails farther from the city have much lower numbers of tourists.
• Intensive cultural experience in the Tibetan-influenced villages
• A variety of valleys and high deserts.

This sense of solitude, culture, and scenery is what makes this trek feel genuine and not commercialized.

The flow of the trek

The Manaslu Circuit Trek typically starts with a trek from Kathmandu towards Machha Khola and can last up to 14 days. The trail then runs along the river Budhi Gandaki and slowly ascends through forests, steep-sided valleys, and villages.

Noticeable changes are evident in the environment with an increase in elevation. The villages of Namrung and Sama Gaun are significant acclimatization centers where trekkers can acclimatize and immerse themselves in local life. The route gradually leads to its most iconic feature: passing Larkya La Pass (altitude of over 5,100m), one of the longest passes in the Himalayas.

The views from the summit are spectacular, and the ascent is patient and hard work. As you descend towards Bimthang, you find greener landscapes once again, a gradual return to lower altitudes.

Knowledge of the Physical Challenges

The Manaslu Circuit Trek is moderately difficult. No technical climbing is involved, but it’s a combination of distance, height, and terrain that requires preparation.

Trekkers should be prepared for:

• Walking 6-8 hours a day.
• Alpine hiking over 3,500 m.
• A range of terrain, such as rock and steep inclines

The difficulty is not only physical, but it’s also mental. Pacing oneself and allowing for the elevation will allow those who do to finish the hike without a problem, even if they lack experience in trekking.

Choose the right time of year

The timing of the hike will make the experience enjoyable and safe. The region of Manaslu has different seasons, and each season makes the trip unique.

The highest conditions are at:

• Spring (March-May): Spring warmth and flowers. Spring (March-May): Spring warmth and spring flowers.
• Spring (March to May): Metrically unsettled skies, and poor mountain visibility.

These seasons offer ideal weather and the clearest mountain views, which is why most trekkers choose them. 

Winter and monsoon each bring their own challenges, with quieter, less crowded trails in winter, while the monsoon season often means rain-soaked paths and muddy conditions. 

Permits, rules, and what makes this trek special

The Manaslu Circuit is a restricted trek, and permits must be obtained. This is not only a regulatory measure; it is an important element in maintaining the natural and cultural integrity of the region.

Trekkers need to make prior arrangements to enter the region:

• Manaslu Restricted Area Permit (RAP)
• Manaslu Conservation Area Permit (MCAP)
• Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP)

A licensed guide is also mandatory, along with the required trekking permits. This may be limited but it makes for a safer experience and a greater appreciation of the area.

On the Trail: Accommodation and Food

The accommodation on the Manaslu Circuit is quite basic but adequate. Relax, have a meal, and meet other hikers at a teahouse. They are not luxurious but provide a warm and inviting place after long days on the trail.

Dinners are planned to give energy and are usually uniform throughout the hike. You can expect:

• Dals for longer-lasting energy are a traditional meal.
• Noodles, soups, and rice, simple dishes
• Hot beverages such as tea and coffee.

One of the nice things about it is how easy it is to do; the trekkers can concentrate more on the trip itself rather than the complexities.

Safety, Preparation, and Altitude Awareness

Altitude is still the greatest factor to be taken into account in the Manaslu Circuit Trek. The amount of oxygen also drops as the altitude rises, even for the most seasoned treks.

There are a few practices that need to be observed to minimise risk:

• Carefully acclimatize before leaving for the high altitudes
• Keep drinking water throughout the hike
• Keep a steady and controlled speed

Safety and fun are important, and preparation is a big factor. Patience and understanding are key when trekking at high altitudes: listen to your body and adjust your pace accordingly.

Conclusion: Manaslu Circuit Trek Real Value

It’s not simply about getting to a place, it’s about the journey itself being raw, real, and rewarding. Nature, culture, and physicality make a thing that few trekking routes can provide these days.

There are a few key elements that make it so special:

• The feeling of loneliness that is uncommon nowadays in trekking. Uncommon feeling of loneliness.
• Real cultural experiences without the tourist touch.
• A varied topography continually changing along the way.

In addition to offering breathtaking scenery, the Manaslu Circuit provides a journey that will stay with trekkers long after they have finished the trek.

We’re Nepal High Trek And Expedition Pvt. Ltd., based in Kathmandu, specializing in treks, climbs, and more for solo travelers and private groups.

Contact us at info@nepalhightrek.com or WhatsApp +977 9851142116.

Thanks to Nepal High Trek for writing this informative guest post.

Hawaiian Language and Culture have recently experienced a rebirth. Hawaiians are resurrecting their language in immersion schools and promoting the foundations of their culture. The Big Island of Hawai’i is the stronghold of Hawaiian culture and language.

Hawaiians will appreciate your interest in and respect for their culture. They first settled these islands known as the Hawaiian Islands (perhaps as far back as) 124 CE after sailing from Polynesia. Here and then, the Hawaiian culture began to take shape.

As a visitor, you’ll first want to set your sights on Hilo, the biggest town on the Big Island. This former sugar mill town has a population of about 45,000. Its melting-pot population has yielded a seriously delicious, diverse, and affordable food scene.

Stay at the Grand Naniloa Hotel. They have a team dedicated to promoting Hawaiian culture. They also host the Merrie Monarch Festival – an Annual hula festival and competition.

In Hilo, you’ll also experience a typical Hawaiian city without many tourists. Hilo has a great food scene, lots of independent shops, a few worthy museums, as well as good accessibility to Volcanoes National Park and some beautiful natural attractions like waterfalls. 

Hilo is also the rainiest place in America and lacks white sandy beaches, which probably dissuades many visitors from staying here. But it is certainly worth at least a two-day stay.

For more info: Your Travel Guide to Hilo, Hawai’i

Where and How You can Experience Hawaiian Culture

Visit the Lyman Museum 

Located in Hilo, the Lyman Museum presents the storied history of Hawai’ians and Hawai’i as well as its culture, immigration, colonization, illegal annexation, and statehood. You will gain a great appreciation for the unique geography and ecology, as well as the people who initially settled on these islands, which are the most remote in the world.

Talk to People

Not everyone you’ll meet here is Hawai’ian. Hawaii has a very diverse population. Hawaiian residents have come from all over the world. Immigration waves at various points over the past couple of centuries have transplanted Japanese, Filipino, Chinese, and Korean populations to the Big Island. Although there are White and Hispanic residents, people of Asian, Native Hawaiian, and Pacific Islander backgrounds make up a significant portion of the population.

I met Hawaiians and other locals fishing at Moku’ola, not far from the Grand Naniloa in Hilo. Most people are friendly and the best way to learn about life in any place is to talk to people.

I also stopped into Extreme Exposure Fine Art Gallery Hilo and met Tom Kualii, who is Hawaiian and an incredible photographer. He leads groups and photography workshops to photograph lava and other unique Hawaiian geology and ecology. His photos of lava were out-of-this-world insane. Our conversation shed some light on being Hawaiian in Hawaii in the 21st century.

Many Hawaiians are proud of their heritage and happy to share their knowledge and experiences with visitors.

Visit The Grand Naniloa Hilton Doubletree

If you’re not staying at the Grand Nailoa, you can stop by to visit. Get a beverage at the lobby bar and enjoy the nightly Hula performance and live music. Rarely do you see international hotel chains engage with local communities, but Grand Naniloa is doing just that. 

They support and encourage the preservation and growth of the Hawaiian language and culture. They also put a lot of effort into sharing Hawaiian language and culture with guests, be it through photography and exhibits throughout the hotel or little note cards explaining certain aspects of Hawaiian life. And the open-air lobby is a fun and relaxing place to hang out day or night. 

Eat Hawaiian Food

Eating local food is always an easy way to both enjoy and connect with local residents. There are excellent options for eating Hawaiian around Hilo and the big island. 

Get the loco moco or saimin at Hawaiian Style Cafe, the famous 1lb laulau or tasty plate lunches at Kuhio Grille or a tall stack of macadamia-nut pancakes at Ken’s House of Pancakes. To get the taste of old Hawai’i, try traditional aged poi. It has a sour fermented taste.

Visit Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park

On the leeward (west) side of Hawai’i is the Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park. “Park” is a misnomer. This is a sacred sight for Hawaiians. It is one of the best-preserved pu’uhonua in Hawaii. Visit with respect. 

The site, run by the National Park Service, provides insights into ancient Hawaiian traditions, customs, and ways of life. Here you can learn about the kapu (taboos) system, which governed various aspects of Hawaiian society, and the role of Pu’uhonua (places of refuge) in Hawaiian culture.

The ranger-led interpretive program is an excellent introduction to the history, culture, and religion of the Hawaiians. You might even leave feeling a little shocked and unwelcome after the program, but it just goes to show you how seriously they expect your reverence here.

Visit the ‘Imiloa Astronomy Center

Primarily focused on astronomy and science, the Imiloa Astronomy Center also offers exhibits and programs that explore the connections between Hawaiian culture, navigation, and the stars. 

A visit here is a unique opportunity to learn about the ancient Hawaiian art of wayfinding (celestial navigation), which is deeply essential to the cultural foundation of Hawaiians. 

Located in Hilo, the ʻImiloa Center offers educational and cultural programs for visitors, students, and local residents through exhibits, activities, and a full-dome planetarium. 

Learn and Use Hawaiian words Respectfully

Make an effort to learn and correctly pronounce certain important Hawaiian words. You already know “Aloha” which is perhaps the most famous Hawaiian word. It can mean “hello” or “goodbye” and is a versatile greeting and expression of warmth and welcome. Equally important is “Mahalo”, or “Thank you.” Use this word to express gratitude and appreciation. 

Another important word you’ll come across is “’Ohana,” meaning “Family,” which emphasizes the importance of family bonds in Hawaiian culture. “Pono” which means “righteous” or “balanced” signifies doing what is right and living in harmony.

Take the Pono Pledge

When you take the Pono Pledge, you learn about the values that Hawaiians hold dear to protect their land and culture. Being Pono means living and conducting yourself with “goodness, uprightness, morality, correct or proper procedure, excellence, righteousness, etc”. 

Being Pono means respecting private property, caring for the land and sea, admiring wildlife from a distance, leaving lava rocks and sand where you found them, and respecting the power of the Pacific Ocean, among other things. 

Being Pono is a great way to gain the respect of your hosts and be welcomed back to this beautiful place.

Here’s where you can take the Pono Pledge: https://ponopledge.com/

[Spoiler: It’s mostly good!]

Although it’s off most people’s radar, Cycling around Taiwan is an ideal destination. The terrain is varied and the infrastructure for cycling is well developed and maintained. It’s a visually stunning country with rich cultures, friendly people, and outstanding food.

Although recreational cycling has been gaining popularity in the past few decades, bicycles have been an essential form of transportation in Taiwan for much longer than that. Recently replaced by scooters and motorbikes, few people now rely on bicycles to get from place to place. However, Taiwan is still a major manufacturing hub for all types of bicycles exported worldwide.

Taiwan is an excellent place for both bicycle touring and road riding up world-class mountain roads. I did some of each! Before my 10-day tour cycling around Taiwan, I peddled up the winding roads into Yangmingshan National Park.

If you’re not keen on bike touring around Taiwan, or you live in the country, read this article for 5 Alternatives to Cycling Rt 1 for other suggestions.

This was my third time back to Taiwan, a place I consider one of my favorite countries in the world.

The Good

Cycling Lanes are (Almost) Everywhere

Taiwan has done a great job of sectioning off car traffic from motorcycles and bicycles. There is so much scooter traffic on the roads that you almost always see a special lane for scooters and bicycles. I stayed to the right of the scooter lane and had no problems. Sometimes there is even a designated lane for cyclists. Other times the shoulder to the right of the scooter lane is wide enough for a bicyclist to ride safely.

Drivers are bike-aware

Automobile drivers in Taiwan are so used to driving together with motorcycles and scooters, that this makes them already mindful of cyclists. Very rarely, a speedy driver will pass, or an overzealous truck driver will veer too close, but all in all, drivers in Taiwan are aware and respectful of cyclists. I generally ride defensively, but in my two weeks cycling in Taiwan, I never felt violated on the road.

Availability of Rental bikes in Taiwan

It is easy to find rental bikes in Taiwan. You can get all types of road bikes and recreation bikes, and touring bikes as well. In many destinations, renting a touring bike isn’t even a possibility. In Taipei, I rented from MathewBike. They rent touring bikes for cycling around Taiwan and make it very easy for international travelers and beginner cyclists because they supply all the bike equipment as well as rack and panniers. Their website also has good info for cycle touring around Taiwan.

Affordable of Food, Accommodation, and Transport

If you’re traveling with US Dollars or Euros, you will find Taiwan very affordable. My budget accommodation was usually between US $20-$35 per night. A dorm bed will normally be under $20, and a budget private room will be somewhere over $20. I usually spent less than US $10 on food each day. A tall iced tea to go is generally between $1-2, and a rice ball from the convenience store is about $1. A 3-hour train ride from Hualien to Taipei was about $10. And cell phone service is inexpensive. While cycling around Taiwan, an eSIM Asia ensures you stay connected across the region without the need to switch SIM cards.

Taiwanese Food is Delicious

Taiwanese food is one of the highlights of traveling here. Cooked food is readily available and inexpensive. Much of it can be boxed to go, which is convenient for cyclists. I typically look for meals with a good mix of carbs, protein, and fat – great for nourishing cyclists. In some places, you’ll find buffet-type restaurants with rice, vegetables, soup, and meat/fish. On other nights, I had traditional beef noodle soup. Box (bento) meals are great for variety. Other nights, I enjoyed braised beef and rice or Hong Kong style BBQ. Fried chicken, dumplings, and other quick foods are easy to find as well.

Mountain Climbs are Incredible

If you crave epic cycling climbs into the mountains, look at Taiwan. Taiwan has some unforgettable cycling climbs, from the winding roads in Yangmanshan National Park to the world’s longest climb to Wuling Pass. Outside of a small window of a couple of months in winter, most of these climbs are accessible year-round to cyclists. The climb to Wutai is a year-round favorite that I did. There are countless other roads into the hills and mountains, and the road surfaces are mostly in great shape.

Road Surface Quality is Excellent

I’ve never been anywhere where the roads were consistently in excellent condition. The surface was nearly perfect on almost every road I cycled in Taiwan. I regularly noted this in my video, maybe to a point of beating the topic to death. But in much of the world, winter weather means freezing and thawing breaking up the road surface. Taiwan maintains its roads very well.

Friendly People

In my experience, Taiwanese people were quick to help me when I needed assistance. They were also very patient with my lack of Chinese language. One time, I veered down the wrong road into a major steel factory. I feared getting scolded by security, but the guard kindly pointed me in the right direction. Taiwanese are also very generous. I got more than one meal paid for, and a bubble tea shop owner even gave me a free hat! Lots of people expressed encouragement to me as I peddled along my journey.

The Bad

You won’t find any pristine nature on Taiwan’s West Coast. It seems as if every square kilometer is totally developed with either cities, farms, or industry. Of course, that’s not a bad thing if you’re a cyclist in need of a bike shop, a convenience store, or a place to grab a cheeky afternoon bubble tea. It’s also not bad if you love cities or want to experience more history and culture. Tainan, for example, is a historic city with many temples, attractions, and museums.

Cycling down the West Coast, you are bound to spend hours riding past smelly pig and goose farms, aquaculture, and other agriculture. Even worse, this is one of the world’s most developed manufacturing hubs. I passed countless warehouses, industrial parks, and factories, even peddling through one of the country’s major steelworks. Industry does not help the air quality, something cyclists rely on.

But it’s all part of Cycling around Taiwan. You have to take the bad with the good.

The Ugly

Air Pollution

Taiwan is among the world’s most densely populated countries. It’s got about 24 million people living on an island 1.44 times bigger than the US state of Vermont. (For comparison, Vermont has less than a million inhabitants.) Population density plus a huge manufacturing sector sometimes leads to less-than-ideal air conditions. Heavy motorbike traffic does not help breathing at street level.

High Winds

On a positive note, heavy winds flush out much of the air pollution. While we’re on the subject of high winds, this is a good time to point out that in January, I had to deal with wind every day. This was a huge boon for me as I rode south from Taipei. The tailwinds helped boost me down the coast. It’s something to be aware of when planning or in Taiwan riding. I used an app called Windy to look at wind speed and direction. 

I even changed my plans because I feared a headwind. A little bit of adversity and hardship never hurt anyone, but let’s be honest. Riding your bicycle around a country is hard enough. I balked when I saw my upcoming day had 70 miles and over 2,000 ft of elevation gain plus a forecasted 15-20 mile-an-hour headwind. I decided instead to climb up a mountain road that day and catch a train to my final destination after the climb. 

Heavy Traffic

If there is one place you want to deal with heavy traffic, it’s Taiwan. I am mostly referring to urban areas (which there are a lot of on the West Coast) and rush hour. If you can avoid either of those you will be better. But a combination or riding in the city during peak traffic times is miserable.

The good news is that much of the traffic is of the two-wheeled, motorized variety. And most of these riders drive defensively. Furthermore, car drivers in Taiwan are used to watching out for scooters and bicycles, and they normally pass with plenty of space and care.

Cycling around Taiwan is Highly Recommended

Overall, I highly recommend cycling in Taiwan as either a bike touring destination or for road riders who love hill climbs. A favorable year-round climate, excellent roads, delicious food, friendly and helpful people, affordability, and a great cycling culture make this an ideal cycling destination.

I’ve traveled to the Republic of Korea (South Korea) more than 10 times over the past 18 years. Over that period I’ve noticed many aspects of society that make this country unique. I even married a Korean during that time! 

Here are some of the things you probably didn’t know about Korea and the Korean people.

There’s no specific food for breakfast in Korea

There is no “breakfast food” in Korea. Koreans eat a big morning meal and it’s usually no different from a meal you’d eat for any other meal during the day. There’s meat or fish accompanied by soup and rice. Alternatively, rice or soup is the main dish as in bibimbap or Galbitang (Beef Short Rib Soup). There are always one or more banchan (side dishes) like various kimchi, spinach, or bean sprouts.  

Koreans eat food this way

Unlike Chinese or Japanese, Koreans eat rice with a spoon. I will often see foreigners struggling to eat rice in Korea with their chopsticks when it is proper etiquette (and easier!) to use a spoon. Instead of chopsticks made of bamboo or plastic, Koreans use metal chopsticks. The Koreans originally used wooden chopsticks but some believe the change occurred when the nobility began using silver chopsticks that would tarnish with poisoned food. Eventually, the rest of the population could afford metal chopsticks and nowadays they are considered more hygienic, although arguably more difficult to use. Additionally, Koreans don’t eat with knives at the table. Koreans use scissors to cut meat, kimchi, and other foods.

28% of all South Koreans are Christians

One of the first things you might notice in Seoul is the number of churches and the plethora of neon crosses lit up at night. Christianity is strong and growing in South Korea and has its strongest following in Seoul. In 1900, only 1% of the country’s population was Christian. Today, Protestantism and Catholicism account for 8.6 million and 5.8 million adherents each. In 2014, Pope Francis visited the country. Christianity was first brought to Korea by Confucian scholars who encountered it in China. In 1603 a Korean diplomat, returned from Beijing carrying theological books written by an Italian Jesuit missionary.

Coffee culture is huge here

If you’ve traveled to South Korea, you can’t help but notice coffee shops on seemingly every corner. Many people associate Korea as a “tea” drinking culture and for good reason. Koreans have been drinking teas made from various leaves, roots, flowers, fruits, and grains for centuries. 

Over the past few decades, coffee has surged in popularity. In 1976, a company in Korea became the first in the world to make instant coffee mix packets that contained both sugar and powdered milk. Korea’s coffee market grew three times over the past decade and today the country has an annual coffee consumption of 512 cups per person.

It’s not only coffee consumption that has increased, but a growth in cafes and coffee culture as well. South Korea has the world’s highest number of coffee tasters and specialty coffee shops. South Koreans account for more than half of the world’s approximately 5,000 official “Q-graders,” people who are certified “coffee cuppers”. With more than 17,000 coffee shops in Seoul, or about 17 for every 10,000 people, Seoul has more coffee shops per capita than Seattle or San Francisco.

South Korea is about 70% mountains

Mountains seem to be everywhere in South Korea. As you travel throughout the country, you’ll see almost every acre in the valleys used for agriculture, cities, or villages. The mountains are forested. The fact that South Korea is about 70% mountains, combined with cold winters (especially in the territory of North Korea) may have discouraged expansion from the Chinese empire and saved Korea. Traveling around the country you’ll notice the highways and railways frequently go through tunnels. Unsurprisingly, hiking is a favorite pastime here.

Half of all South Koreans live in one city

About half of the entire population of South Korea lives in the Seoul metropolitan area. Reaching 25.5 million, it’s the same as the entirety of North Korea’s population. The whole of South Korea is listed at 51.5 million. For comparison of the population density, South Korea has a slightly bigger landmass than Portugal but has 5 times as many people. However, the population is falling.

Home to the world’s lowest fertility rate

South Korea has the lowest fertility rate of any major nation in the world. It dropped to 0.78 in 2022, down from 0.81 a year earlier. This means the average number of expected babies per South Korean woman over her reproductive life is below 1. The replacement level fertility rate needed to maintain the current population is about 2.1. At the current rate, the South Korean population will fall to 37.7 million (from 51.5 million) by 2070.

This plummeting birth rate could potentially impact the South Korean economy, which is the world’s 10th largest, due to labor shortages and the need to support a higher percentage of retirees. The problem has become so dire that the government has spent US $210 billion over the past 16 years to try to reverse the falling birth rate. On a personal note, I’m doing my part. Last November our baby was born and has become one of South Korea’s newest citizens.

The Korean language is unique 

Korean written script was developed specifically for the language. Until 1443, only the upper classes could write and the written language they used were complicated Chinese characters. King Sejong gathered a secret committee of linguistic scholars to develop Hangul (Korean-language script). 

What makes Hangul unique is the fact that basic consonants were created in replication of the human pronunciation organs, imitating the shapes of the organ of articulation at the moment they are pronounced. It is remarkably less–complicated to learn that other world scripts.

Bonus Round:

Cleanest parking garages in the world

I like to joke that Korean parking garages are so clean you could sit down and have a picnic on them. In the United States, parking garages are notoriously grimy places. Me bestowing this title of “cleanest parking garages” is totally unofficial. It’s not a competition, but if it were, South Korea would win.

Some Northern Lights FAQs

“Did you always dream of being an Aurora guide?” I chuckled to myself when a guest asked me this question on a recent tour because twenty years ago I didn’t even know what the Aurora Borealis, or Northern Lights, were.

Most people have recently learned about the Northern Lights recently through social media. Or else they were into science and Astronomy like my wife, who introduced me to the phenomenon about a decade ago in Iceland.

My Job as an Aurora Guide

Fast forward a few years. I now live in Alaska and work as a Northern Lights guide. It’s not the only job I have here, in fact, we can’t even see the Aurora in summer (read below). In summer, I work as a guide leading other tours throughout Alaska as well as writing, editing, and photography for my wife’s digital marketing agency (and this blog!).

I also dislike the extreme cold, so I do most of my Aurora guiding shifts in the fall and spring. Occasionally, I will brave the nighttime cold of winter interior Alaska, but it’s not my idea of a good time. I wouldn’t mind being a guest on one of these winter tours if all I had to do was bundle up and look at the sky. But it’s the having to work in that cold environment that is the problem. Taking care of guests and my camera equipment in sub-zero temperatures is not easy or comfortable.

What’s a Typical Night Like?

Every night is different. Depending on the season, I will pick the guests up at their hotel between 7-9 pm. We normally drive 2-3 hours from Anchorage to get to a good viewing location. It’s worth driving because it increases our chances of being successful. When we get to our spot, I’ll set up my camera on its tripod. 

The Aurora will either be out or we’ll have to wait for it. I encourage my folks to dress warmly so they can spend time outside the van waiting for the Aurora or watching the Aurora develop throughout the night. If the lights aren’t showing we look at the night sky. I point out the visible planets and my favorite constellations. We find north using the Polaris via the Big Dipper.

I’ll take lots of landscape shots and photos of my guests in front of the Aurora. They love this. We’ll usually spend between 2-3 hours out at our destination. Sometimes if we’re battling clouds, we’ll have to do a “chase”, where we drive to several locations looking for cloud-free skies.

Here’s what I explain to my guests when I pick them up

“The Aurora won’t be as bright as the photos you see on Instagram.” is the way I normally begin. I then try to lower their expectations or at least realistically explain what their viewing situation will be like. “Sometimes the Aurora is weak and it looks like white fog on the horizon. Sometimes it’s moderate and a whitish-green band arches over the northern horizon. And other times activity is strong and the Aurora dances”

Everybody wants to see the Aurora dance. But you’ve either got to be lucky or put in the effort of going out night after night in the cold. What I can say for certain is that when the Aurora does dance it is infinitely more interesting, exciting, and beautiful than any Instagram photo.

I continue “To see the Northern Lights we need two things: clear skies and Aurora activity. We have some control over the clouds because we can take you to a place that is clear. For Aurora activity, we depend on the solar wind, which we have no control over. Based on data at Space Weather Live we have some idea of what we might expect. However, interpreting this data is far from an exact science. 

Where do you go to see the lights?

Northern Lights viewing locations are a lot like your favorite fishing hole. You don’t ask and you don’t tell people your favorite spots. Instead of being a smart ass about it when they ask, I normally just tell my guests that we’re “going north to a dark place free of light pollution. Someplace with a good vantage point of the northern horizon.” That seems to satisfy them. To you, my readers, I’ll say that you want a dark location without any tall mountains blocking your northern horizon. If the Aurora is weak, it will be lower on the horizon.

Do you always see the Northern Lights?

I think the company that I work for is the best in the business. It’s Greatland Adventures and they offer an Anchorage Northern Lights Tour as well as one in Fairbanks. Our founder has been Aurora chasing for decades and has finely tuned the difficult task of Aurora forecasting. He makes his forecast and guests decide whether or not they want to go out chasing for the night. 

We can’t guarantee we’ll find the Lights for you but we will do our absolute best. One night I drove over 400 miles to find clear skies to see Aurora. We almost always do get the Aurora in at least the camera. But we have no control over mother nature and only rarely do our guests get skunked.

What causes the Northern Lights?

The Northern Lights occur when charged particles from the sun interact with Earth’s oxygen and nitrogen molecules. This interaction excites the molecules and causes them to glow.

On my tour, I normally let this video explain the science behind the Aurora.

Does it get Brighter?

“Why does it look white and not green? It’s not actually like the photos.” I’ve heard these questions/statements so many times from guests that I proactively explain beforehand that Aurora comes in different strengths. 

When it’s weak, the Aurora looks white to our eyes because there are two types of photoreceptors in the human retina: rods and cones. Rods are responsible for vision at low light levels (scotopic vision) and they do not mediate color vision and have a low spatial acuity. This is why we don’t see colors in the dark.

When the Aurora gets stronger and brighter it activates the cone cells in our retina. Cones are active at higher light levels (photopic vision), and are capable of color vision, and are responsible for high spatial acuity.

Are you a Vampire / Night Owl / Whatever Stays up all Night?

This is a common question people ask. I am none of the above. When I was younger I used to enjoy staying up late but I have grown into a morning person. Staying up all night is not a healthy or sustainable lifestyle for me. It is also really difficult and potentially dangerous to drive on dark roads at high speeds. 

They say that Peace Corps is the “toughest job you’ll ever love”. To be honest, Aurora guiding is the toughest job I’ve ever loved.

If this is such a hard job, why do you do it?

In part, I do these Aurora guiding shifts to be a team player at work. Most guides don’t like this shift because it’s a mostly thankless job. Guests stumble out of your vehicle at 5 am and forget to leave a tip. You’ve probably overdone it on caffeine to get home safely and then have trouble getting to sleep. Or you’ve completely changed your lifestyle to be awake at night. These things are both difficult on my family life and not worth doing long term. Have I mentioned these hours aren’t good for my body?

The main reason I do this job (besides money) is simply because I love being outside under the night sky. The stars, planets, and constellations are fun to observe night after night and the Aurora is out-of-this-world incredible some nights. There’s also S.T.E.V.E and the Miky Way.

S.T.E.V.E. and the Milky Way

S.T.E.V.E. is a more recent discovery. Once thought to be an Aurora, Strong Thermal Emission Velocity Enhancement, as it’s more formally known, is an atmospheric optical phenomenon that appears as a purple and green light ribbon in the sky. It is caused by a 25 km (16 mi) wide ribbon of hot plasma at an altitude of 450 km (280 mi), with a temperature of 3,000 °C (3,270 K; 5,430 °F).

The Milky Way, as you know, is our home galaxy. It looks magnificent from rural Alaska. Did you know: until the early 1920s, most astronomers thought that the Milky Way contained all the stars in the Universe? The Milky Way is 13.6 billion years old, 100,000 light-years across, and contains about 200 billion stars. If the center of the Milky Way were a city, we would be living in suburbia, about 25,000 to 30,000 light-years from the city center.

Can we see the Northern Lights in the Summer?

In Anchorage, where I live, Aurora season is approximately late August to late April. In the summer the sky here in Alaska isn’t dark enough to see stars or Aurora. In Anchorage, for example, all days between June 8 and July 5 have 24 hours of civil twilight. Twilight is the time between day and night when our Sun is below the horizon but its rays still light up the sky. This makes it impossible to see the night sky or Aurora.

Does the full Moon interfere with Northern Lights viewing?

I recently shot this video to try to show people what it’s like to view the Northern Lights on a full moon. Yes, it is still possible but the moon is a form of light pollution that partially drowns out the Aurora. If you have the luxury of planning a trip to Alaska on a new moon, that is ideal for viewing the Northern Lights and the Milky Way. So, yes, you can see the Aurora on a full moon but it is more difficult.

Can you see the Northern Lights in Anchorage?

Anchorage is a city with over 300,000 residents. It is not ideal for viewing the Northern Lights due to light pollution but you definitely can see the Aurora when it is moderate to strong activity. There are nice viewing locations around town like Point Woronzov, Downtown Viewpoint, or up on Hillside.

What to never ask your Aurora guide 

I am a firm believer in the “there are no stupid questions”. Never be afraid to ask your guide about something you are curious. I love discussing life in Alaska, talking about Alaska itineraries, and explaining what little I know about the vast night sky. 

But I have been asked a stupid question: “Do you accept tips?” Of course, I accept tips! I’m not a volunteer guide. This is my profession. It’s how I pay my bills.

In this article, I’ll show you how to visit Denali National Park on a budget. The first thing to understand is that you are in a remote part of Alaska that has a four-month tourist season. This, among other things, drives up prices. The Denali area is not cheap, but I will help steer you towards the cheapest options available for independent travelers. 

Transportation

Car Rental – Flexible, but expensive if you are traveling Solo

Car rental is your most flexible option. It is difficult to find a rental car in summer for under $200 per day, so this is only a cheap option if you are a group or family of about three or more. There are lots of car rental agencies in Anchorage and others in Fairbanks, as well.

Transportation to Denali

Rail

Train travel in Alaska is expensive and slow. But it is also the most fun. If you pay extra for the Alaska Railroad’s “Gold Star” service you get a couple meals with drinks included as you slowly make your way into the Denali wilderness. The cheaper bare bones “Adventure Class” costs $181 for the steady 7-hour and 20-minute one-way trip.

Bus

Motorcoach transport to Denali via The Park Connection is your cheapest option. It is also relatively efficient, taking about 6 hours. There are two buses per day in the summer from Anchorage to Denali. It costs $100 one way. It’s a good value for solo travelers.

Transportation Within Denali

If you are paying big to stay at the hotels/resorts in the Canyon (aka Glitter Gulch) near the Park entrance or at the Miners Plaza, shuttle transportation to the Park entrance is usually included with your stay. If you are staying further afield at the less expensive family-run accommodation, you’ll need to find your own transportation.

If you are staying at Denali Cabins or the Carlo Creek area (Denali Hostel & Cabins, McKinley Creekside Cabins, Denali Perch Resort, or Carlo Creek Cabins) I recommend using Sheep Shuttle. Also, it’s the only shared transport in the area serving these accommodations.

Sheep Shuttle runs 3-4 times per day on a fixed schedule making a few stops along the 14-mile route from Carlo Creek to Denali bus/train depot and the National Park Visitors Center. It costs $30 each way and is an excellent way to get to your park tour in the morning, get picked up from your arriving train, or do a hike like the Triple Lakes Trail.

Accommodation

I have been working closely with Denali Hostel & Cabins over the past couple of years and I love their property. I have stayed with them on several occasions. They have cozy dorm beds and cabins if you want your own space. Their kitchen/hang-out area is also great for meeting fellow travelers while self-catering to save yourself some money. They have hot showers, spotless facilities, coin-operated laundry, and a lovely outdoor space next to Carlo Creek to relax after a long day of hiking or touring in the park.

There are other reasonably-priced accommodations around the Carlo Creek area but Denali Hostel & Cabins are the only shared accommodation and will be the best option for a solo budget traveler.

In the opposite direction, 11 miles further north from the Park entrance, is the small town of Healy. Healy has several vacation rentals and two reasonably priced accommodations as well as a couple of restaurants, and a grocery store.

Camping

If you’re car camping or have a campervan, Riley Creek Campground, situated at the entrance to Denali National Park, is your best bet for a campground. Sites start at $20 per night and you should reserve in advance.

Food

Most restaurants in the Denali area are situated in the Canyon (aka Glitter Gulch) near the Park entrance. The Black Bear, open until 2 pm, is great for breakfast, brunch, coffee, or baked goods. Denali Doghouse (hotdogs and burgers) is another inexpensive place for lunch or dinner. Avoid Chinese Express (Thai and Chinese food to go) because their food is not recommended. There are other great restaurants in the area, like Moose-AK’s and Alpenglow but they are not low-budget.

In Healy, Denali Totem Inn serves up tasty, home-cooked food at reasonable prices and 49th State Brewing is another favorite. In between the two is Healy Thai food, a good low-budget choice.

The Carlo Creek area has three good options for eating. I love McKinley Creekside for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. A cheaper option is Panorama Pizza Pub. For a closer-to-fine-dining experience, eat at The Perch for excellent food with a lovely view.

South of Carlo Creek, in Cantwell, are two good budget options. Parks Hwy BBQ is a tasty food truck and Jam Jam’s Spot has delicious Jamaican eats.

Self-catering

To save money on meals, hit Cubby’s Marketplace on the Parks Highway near Talkeetna on your drive north. There is also a Three Bear Market in Healy. Denali Hostel & Cabins has a full kitchen for guests’ use so that is an excellent place to prepare your meals and enjoy them in their cozy dining area or outside by the creek.

Activities

Denali National Park

The main attraction here is Denali National Park. There are numerous ways to see the park, from taking a day tour along the Park Road to hiking and camping in the backcountry. Narrated bus tours start at $104 for the Natural History Tour. Until the Park Road is reconstructed (2024 or later), I would recommend the 5.5-hour Tundra Wilderness Tour ($128), which is longer and more comprehensive than the Natural History Tour.

For a cheaper alternative, make a reservation on the Denali National Park transit bus for $30. These non-narrated buses are designed to move people around within the park and make regular restroom stops and wildlife-viewing stops, just like the narrated tour buses. Transit buses are perfect for those interested in day hikes, or for people who want to experience the park on their own terms rather than as part of a tour group. 

Alternatively, cyclists can bike into the park along the Park Road. Gravel or mountain bikes are best for the 92-mile gravel road. Note: The closure of the Denali Park Road at Mile 43 is expected to remain in place through the summer of 2024

The Denali National Park Visitors Center is free and open to all visitors. It’s also worth visiting the National Park kennels for a free Sled Dog Demonstration. You can meet the dogs and learn about the history of mushing in the park at 10 am, 2 pm, and 4 pm daily.

There are numerous hiking opportunities near the entrance of the Park and others deeper into the Park. See Hiking in Denali National Park for more details.

Here are some recommended Denali Itineraries I wrote about in another article.

Rent an E-Bike

E-bike is another excellent way to see the Denali Area. Chain Lynx Bike Shop rents e-bikes from their location at Denali Hostel & Cabins. There are two directions to ride. Head north towards Denali National Park and the Park Road. Or go south to the Denali Highway. If you are taking the bus tour inside the national park, I would recommend riding south to the Denali Highway. Rentals start at $70 / four hours.

Other Options

There are other activities available in the Denali Area, most of which are excellent but not budget-friendly. Among the cheapest is visiting the huskies at Jeff King’s Husky Homestead. Tours start at $60. Rafting on the Nenana River is another popular activity starting at about $105 for the shortest excursion. Joining a guided photography tour in Denali is an excellent way to get to all the best spots at the best times and receive pointers from experienced photographers. Tours with Denali Photo Guides start at $190.

Exploring Denali National Park on a budget is not easy, but planning and booking ahead will save you money.

Hope this helps you with how to visit the Denali National Park on a budget.

I’m not sure when or where I first heard about climbing Haleakala Volcano by bicycle. But when I did, I knew that I wanted to go to Maui do it.

Ranked the second-hardest climb in the US (after Mauna Kea, Hawai’i), the route starts from sea level in Pa’ia and takes you 36 miles and 10,331 feet up to the crater summit at a 5.3% average grade. 

I biked to the start and then home from the summit, clocking a total of 75 miles and 10,528 ft of elevation gain over the 7-hour bike ride. (See Strava Ride statistics below.)

It was definitely a bucket-list challenge for me and I hope to do other big climbs like this in the future. Although it was a really long climb, the moderate and steady gradient made it an attainable goal. The steepest half-mile, at 9%, is the last stretch to the summit. Unsurprisingly, this stretch, in addition to all of the climb over 7,500 ft, was the hardest. The reduced oxygen at that elevation left me struggling.

As expected, the views from Haleakala were stunning the whole way. I got a beautiful weather day and clouds only started moving in as I got to the higher elevation. Cycling into the clouds is just as cool as enjoying the views. 

Cycling at a slow pace through the different elevation zones was interesting. There was tropical vegetation near sea level and then around 4,000 feet, I reached some big eucalyptus groves. Beyond that were pines, and eventually, above the treeline, it was only shrubs and plants. The summit and crater comprise shades of reddish-brown volcanic rocks, almost lunar in appearance.

The southern portion of Haleakala National Park actually stretches to the ocean, so this floral diversity is reflective of the variety of climates and elevations that allowed plants to fill niches from dry alpine deserts to humid, salt-sprayed coastlines. Over 850 species of plants are found within the bounds of the park. Of these, over 400 species are native or arrived without human intervention. Over 300 species are endemic to Hawai’i, found only here. 

Traveling to Maui

This was our first time on Maui. There are direct flights from Alaska, so it’s a shorter and less-expensive flight than from most other destinations. This was our first time traveling out of state after the pandemic had begun and we had all our negative tests in order before our flight.

We rented out a one-room cottage in the village of Haiku and rented a car for a week. Later in the week, after I returned my rental bike, Juno and I drove to the top of Haleakala. The crater of this shield volcano is part of Haleakala National Park and we hiked for a couple of hours down into the crater: a massive depression some 11.25 km (7 mi) across, 3.2 km (2 mi) wide, and nearly 800 m (2,600 ft) deep. 

The surrounding crater walls are steep and the interior is rocky and barren-looking with a scattering of volcanic cones. Definitely not your typical hike.

Another day we drove out the famous Hana Highway and completed the loop of East Maui, something we probably shouldn’t have done in our rental Chevy Camaro. The far southeastern portion of Maui is remote and the road is narrow, unpaved, and crumbling.

West Maui is more populated but equally beautiful. We drove that loop, too but I would have preferred to do it on my bike. The road was super narrow and it was nerve-racking having to contend with oncoming traffic and blind curves. But the views were splendid and the snorkeling in Honolua Bay alone was worth the trip.

“Next year’s wine is the sweetest.”

-Village Proverb

I couldn’t have read this village proverb from Lawrence Durrell’s Bitter Lemons of Cyprus during a time we’ve needed optimism more. Two years into a global pandemic and our lives, livelihoods, economy, and travel is still very uncertain.

In Durrell’s Cyprus, it was 1956, and he had to abandon his village home on the island, leaving in a hurry. Anti-English sentiment had grown and the calls for enosis were increasingly loud. Enosis, or union with Greece is what most Greek Cypriots favored. Independence is what the island eventually got.

These matters seldom have a one-size-fits-all solution and the minority Turkish Cypriots opposed a union with Greece without first partitioning of the island between Greek Cypriots and Turkish Cypriots. 

My journey to Cyprus would begin with a 12-hour ferry from Mersin, Turkey. It was 2007 and I would only be traveling in the Turkish part of a now divided Cyprus. This is the portion where Durrell’s story mostly takes place. He bought and restored an old house in Bellapais, a village known for its 13th-century abbey ruins overlooking the Mediterranean. In Durrell’s time, the island was still unified, known as British Cyprus, with a Crown Colony designation.

When independence came to Cyprus in 1960, it was neither enosis nor a partition. This situation eventually led to the 1974 Cypriot coup d’état. A Turkish invasion soon followed.

More than a third of the island’s territory was taken by the invading Turks, dividing Cyprus along what became known as the Green Line. It wasn’t until 1983 that the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC) declared independence. Turkey is the only country that recognizes this distinction.

Entering the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus

After a tiring ferry crossing, the ship docked in Famagusta and we made our way through passport control to enter the Turkish Republic of North Cyprus. 

Although they share a common language with mainland Turks, Turkish Cypriots are quick to distinguish themselves. “We’re gentlemen.” one explains to me, implying that mainland Turks are not. That may be true, but what is more evident is that Turkish Cypriots are a bit wealthier, friendlier, and a lot more relaxed.

Over the years I have been drawn to peculiar and/or unrecognized countries like Transnistria, The Republic of Užupis, Palestine, Nagorno-Karabakh, Taiwan, and Kosovo, all of which I have visited. TRNC fit that bill. I had also read about the Karpas Peninsula.

Karpas is the long, finger-like peninsula that juts out to the northeast of the island. It is one of the most prominent geographical features of Cyprus. Although it was beautiful and has some excellent beaches, the “wildness” and “remoteness” were overstated in the travel literature I had read before arriving. 

We spent two days camping on Golden Beach, easily one of the finest on Cyprus. The lack of development was a very refreshing change of pace on an island crowded with tourists. Golden Beach is a nesting ground for the endangered Green and Loggerhead sea turtles and the peninsula even has its own indigenous donkeys. So it did, after all, have an appealing wild and remote character.

Due to the lack of public transport, we were forced to hitch a ride the long way out to the end of the Karpas. Two long-haired Italian graduate students drove us in their little rental jeep. First, we drove to the end of the road for the views from Apostolos Andreas Monastery, where the peninsula come to a point. Then they dropped us at nearby Golden Sands Beach where we pitched our tent in the wild sand dunes at Hasan’s Turtle Beach. Hasan operates a restaurant and campground here despite the lack of electricity and looks out for the well-being of the sea turtles when they come ashore to nest. 

The Italians refused gas money insisting instead that we “take a beer” with them. So we bought them a beer and enjoyed sitting among the sand dunes sipping an Effes. They drove back to civilization and we remained with our tent in the dunes in relative isolation at Golden Beach.

Back to Girne

We hitched a ride out of the Karpas Peninsula, back to Famagusta where we could get bus service to Girne. Girne, also known as Kyrenia in Greek, is a pleasant seaside town with a nice harbor and 16th-century castle. It is a tourist town, with mostly Britains, but not tacky in the least. Its castle is home to the oldest shipwreck recovered anywhere in the world—a 2,300-year-old Greek trading vessel. Even the boat’s cargo is preserved and on display: wine amphorae, lead weights, and almonds!

We took a day trip to the divided capital of Lefkosia, or Nicosia, in Greek. We wandered the quiet winding streets outside the thick Venetian-built city walls to the Ledra Palace. Here you could walk through the no man’s land buffer zone to the southern, Greek side of the city, thus entering the Republic of Cyprus. This is the independent, recognized country. We sensed that crossing the border at the world’s only remaining divided capital had become a bit of a tourist attraction in itself.

We turned around and remained in Durrell’s Cyprus, returning to Turkey the next day via hydrofoil. I wouldn’t step foot in the Republic of Cyprus until years later.

I never visited Durrell’s still-standing house in Bellapais on that 2007 trip but reading Bitter Lemons of Cyprus transported me back to the island. Durrell’s poetic descriptions and detailed conversations brought 1950s Cyprus alive. You could tell he was there to get appreciation and insight into this country, people, and culture; not there for tax breaks and sunshine as many Britons were at the time.

If I had to pinpoint an experience in life that I would most wish to replicate, I would choose walking the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route in Spain. 

I’ll see the Scallop Shell in some of the world’s most far-flung places. I don’t know how many others notice or know its meaning. But I notice. And it triggers a lot of wonderful memories.

The Scallop Shell is used as a symbol of direction along the Camino, pointing pilgrims towards Santiago. It’s what you look for, day after day, mile after mile. It lets you know you’re on course.

Pilgrims also wear this symbol, sometimes as a real scallop shell around their neck, like medieval pilgrims did. It was even common across Europe for these Medieval pilgrims to be buried with their scallop shells, showing they had completed their pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.

So it’s no surprise that 21st-century pilgrims have bumper stickers or vanity license plates, patches on their backpacks or teeshirts commemorating their completed pilgrimage. It’s not to brag. It’s a signal to other pilgrims that they are part of this community.

When I see the scallop shell now, wherever it may be, thoughts of my ‘Camino’ come back to me.

Why go on a pilgrimage to Santiago?

Pilgrims embark on their journey to Santiago de Compostela for any number of reasons. Many are at a crossroads of life, in between jobs, have ended a relationship. Some just like to walk. Others love Spain and its history or are just retired and have lots of time. Others are religious or spiritual pilgrims. Most people, like me, have multiple reasons.

See, feel, hear, taste Spain

When you walk across Spain, your experiences are active rather than passive. If it rains, you get wet. If a bakery is baking their morning bread, you smell it. If you walk past an open cafe, you sit down for a coffee. In a car, or bus, or train, you miss so many of these details.

In the morning you’ll see a village on the horizon and after a couple of hours, you are there, slowly tracking your progress along the way. There’s no faking it. You witness Spain step by step. It’s these experiences that keep you present every day and just one of the reasons why I’d love to make another pilgrimage to Santiago.

The people you meet along the way

It’s the people. But what about the people? How are they any different from the people at home or other people you might meet while traveling?

Pilgrims are both detached from life and living their fullest life at the same time. Most are open to conversation or at least a friendly greeting. Life on the Camino is removed from the responsibilities and duties of everyday life. This is an incredible luxury to focus on something bigger. Whatever you want to focus on. This could be a spiritual quest or just simplifying your life for the sake of less stress.

Your necessities on the Camino boil down to three things: walking, eating, and sleeping. What am I going to eat today and where am I going to sleep? With such basic requirements met with adequate cafes and markets and pilgrim-only shelters to sleep in, that leaves much of the day to ponder the meaning of life. Or just to chat with the pilgrim beside you.

Alone time

In my experience, the Camino was a perfect mix of meeting new people, having great conversations, and walking alone. Walking alone allows me to process my own thoughts and break down the conversations I’ve had or things I’ve read. It recharges me. It gives me time to meditate. Walking meditation was the most important aspect of my Camino. There are few other times when my life has had so much purpose and meaning.

Logistics are easy on the Camino

Why not walk anywhere in the world? Why does it have to be a pilgrimage to Santiago? You could get similar benefits of self-reflection and cultural experiences walking other places in the world. For a pilgrimage to Santiago, the logistics are made easy. There are inexpensive albergues (pilgrim hostels) at regular intervals, villages and towns along the way to eat and stock up on food, and plenty of fellow pilgrims to meet along the way. There’s very little planning, no bookings to make, and no need to worry about logistics. Just follow the yellow arrows and scallop shells!

Walking through the history of Spain

Growing up in North America, I am used to hiking in the wilderness. That is where our trails go. You hike to be in the woods. In Europe, the (many) pilgrimage routes to Santiago go from village to village and town to town; many times ancient ones. You might be walking down a medieval lane, stopping into a gothic church, or crossing over a Roman bridge. Instead of bypassing settlements, you walk through them. It is a beautiful way to get an understanding and appreciation of the multilayered history of Spain.

A warning (to myself) about recreating past life experiences

I set off on my second Camino trying to recreate my first. This was the wrong mindset. I was a different person and it was a different Camino. Although I was walking a different route, the Via de la Plata from Seville to Santiago, and it was three years later, I thought the same formula would work. My two Caminos were completely different.

You should still begin your Camino with a plan: something, anything. Even if it’s simply to appreciate life more. That is good enough. Pick something and meditate on it while you’re walking. You can change it at any time.

So while I say at the beginning that I’d like to replicate the experience of walking a Camino, I know in my mind that the only thing that will be the same is the act of walking to Santiago. My experiences will be totally different. My walking companions will be ones I’ve never met, my purpose for walking will be new, and my mindset will be different.

Why I’d Walk the Camino de Santiago Again

Have you walked the Camino de Santiago? Would you make another pilgrimage to Santiago?

Are you interested in a pilgrimage to Santiago, but not sure where to begin? Leave a comment below.

What it’s like to Rent a Campervan for a Short-term Road Trip in Nevada and Utah

Vanlife has really exploded over the past decade. While it may seem like the latest trend there really is something to it. Vanlife is here to stay. Minimalistic living certainly has its advantages and accessibility to the outdoors is much easier when you wake up in it. 

While some vanlifers have moved full-time mobile into their campervan, others have their van set up for weekend excursions. Then there are those of us who are van curious.

I’ve never owned an RV or campervan but have always looked at vanlifers with envy. What if I had my bikes, bed, kitchen, and desk all in the same space. And what if that space was mobile? It would be great to try out for a season at least.

The best way to get a taste of the lifestyle is to do a short-term rental. Ideally, I wanted more than four nights, but sometimes you’ve got to work with the time frame you’re given.

Getting out of Las Vegas ASAP

The first thing I want to do every time I go to Vegas is to immediately get out. Trust me, I’ve given this city a fair shot. It’s not for me. There are some cool areas just outside of the city that I recommend and several spots you could park your van if you didn’t want to stay in the city. Red Rock Canyon, Valley of Fire State Park, or even Hoover Dam if you are into incredible feats of engineering.

Renting a Campervan

There are several outfits renting campervans with differing qualities and prices. We went with the cheapest. Escape Campervans has a cheap base rate and everything you add onto it costs extra (including extra miles). So if you aren’t careful it could end up being pricy. (This is not an advert for Escape, we paid full price for our rental.) Our van was old with lots of miles on it, but it had been well maintained. The size and layout were good for this trip, but if I was buying my own, I’d want a different layout.

Driving to Snow Canyon State Park

Snow Canyon State Park is a good example of why I often prefer a less spectacular place that I have to myself rather than share the world’s best with crowds. Snow Canyon wasn’t exactly deserted of people but there certainly weren’t crowds. And if you didn’t grow up somewhere on the Colorado Plateau and are used to this type of geology, it’s safe to call this a spectacular State Park. 

We were hiking on sandstone formations which were basically petrified sand dunes. The shape and scope of these rocks were extraordinary. And the views of the canyon, which consists of red and white sandstone, were incredible. We had driven the 2+ hours from Las Vegas the night before and reached the park’s campground before 10 pm. It’s nice to roll in late and not have to clear a space for a tent. We still had to assemble the bed in the van but that wasn’t time-consuming. In the morning, we woke up right there in the canyon ready to hike.

Do I still need to pay for a campground with a campervan?

For some people, part of the appeal of vanlife is the freedom to park (almost) anywhere (legal) for the night. For those passing through town, Walmart lets vans and RVs park free overnight. Those out adventuring want to look for BLM (Bureau of Land Management) Land to park for free. There are some basic rules (maximum 14-night stay is one) but basically, National Forests, which are BLM designated, are all yours, provided you respect the land.

Sometimes it makes sense to pay for a campground. In our case, we were arriving late and didn’t want to be searching for a spot to park on some moonlit dirt track in a National Forest. On the other occasion, we wanted to be camped right in Zion National Park in order to catch the early shuttle bus. On our last night, by design, we did camp for free on BLM land which I will address at the end.

Other times, paid camping makes sense if you need facilities like potable water, a shower or electricity, or want a flush toilet. A mix of these provides a good blend of planned-ahead security, comfort, and adventure.

Zion National Park

The next two nights we spent at Zion National Park. Earlier, when I referred to spectacular places with crowds, I was alluding to Zion National Park. Zion has been managing increasing crowds over the past decade. I don’t blame people. Zion is one of the world’s most beautiful parks. Sheer thousand-foot cliffs rise out of a slow meandering river exposing millennia of geology. 

Searching for free camping our last night

I wanted to go without a campground reservation for our last night. Nothing free is truly free so it would take some internet research beforehand and some time that afternoon to actually scope out an appropriate, safe, and legal spot. On the web, I pinpointed two promising locations. These two were the types of locations featured in the film Nomadland, which followed people who live full-time in their RVs.

We pulled into Snowbird Mesa Dispersed Camping about an hour before sundown. This was adjacent to another popular area called Poverty Flats. They are both situated up on a plateau with spectacularly desolate views, stretching out to dry, rugged mountains.

It is always rewarding for me to find an inspiring place to park without paying for it. I had done this on earlier cross-country trips while car camping with a Honda Accord. It’s a great feeling. You are out there on your own, with no services, often miles from the nearest camper.

At Snowbird Mesa we were far enough away from the next RV to have privacy but close enough in case we needed help. We prepared dinner on our stove, which was set up in the back of the camper van, cracked open a beer from our solar-powered fridge, and watched the evening light turn the desert a soft shade of pink.

Would I rent a campervan again?

The next morning we woke before sunrise, ate breakfast, and drove back to the interstate. The van was due in Las Vegas before 10 am. We returned the van and arrived at the airport a few hours early and had time to let the last few days sink in.

I really love the American West. It is one of my favorite places in the world without a doubt. Ever since a childhood vacation to the southwest US, I have been hooked. If I rented a campervan again, I would want it to be for a longer time. Maybe two weeks is a more realistic minimum to really get in the grove of vanlife. I would want to get off the beaten path more and search out the quieter places; get into the wilderness. I would like to get supplied with more provisions and stay off the grid longer. More free nights on BLM land.

My real dream is to travel around the West with both my road and mountain bike to do cycling in all these places. But that might be farther off than my immediate future. Another thing to throw out there is that van life is not a replacement for camping in the backcountry. That is a real wilderness experience, beyond the comfort and security of a camper van. But a van could also be a good base from which to make multi-day treks into the backcountry.

Have you lived or traveled in a van or campervan or any kind of RV? What was your experience like?