Boreal Vagabonds

noreply@blogger.com (Simon) — Mon, 04 May 2009 21:52:00 +0000

Rivers are open and temperatures are rising.

Current high river levels are the perfect opportunity to set out on to Manitoba's smaller waterways.

The Seine river is high and moving and makes for a nice full day trip. This is also the time to venture out onto Souris or Black, Bird. Rapids on the Whitemouth although water is still very cold, should be at their prime.

Play it safe and have a great paddling season.

Thelon River (Trip Report)

noreply@blogger.com (Simon) — Thu, 21 Aug 2008 17:28:00 +0000

So we have returned from the Barrens. A trip I co-guided for Northern Soul and Nature Treck, with Chris Pancoe and Ruud. Our group comprised of 8 Canoes / 16 adventurers.
This was a large canoe party by any standards, but took nothing away from the experience.
And like others before us, also we have been enchanted with the spell that this great empty land cast over the unsuspecting traveller.
It all starts with the first gaze out the window of a turbo prop otter, onto a most surreal mosaic of shapes and colors. Really, the permafrost sculpted land and vegetation patterns remind more of a hodgepodge of molten wax crayons. Dark lined polygons in neon green, speckled grey frost boils, pastel blue lichen fields, orange sand dunes and snake like eskers traversing the land for hundreds of miles. The the deep blue and crystal clear lakes seamlessly merging with the shore as depth decreases.
Those who have endeavored pshychodelic experiences might feel they have taken the wrong pill, for others there is simply no way to describe.
As the river appears and the plane lands, we are left hundreds of miles from the nearest contemporary human structure in the vast empty open. Only a thin strip of forest lines the river banks , but will slowly grow scares and disappear as we progress.
Asides from two lonely raggedy looking arctic wolves, the tundra proved lifeless during the first days. In fact, other than water foul and raptors one might travel for many miles through a lifeless arctic dessert. So were are the 300.000 caribou, the 3.000 muskox, grizzly, moose, fox, hare, lemmings, snowy owls that this forsaken rocky plane is supposed to host?
Yes it may seem empty of life, but as our trip went on we found tract of moose, wolf and grizzly almost at every camp site. Bone fragments, gnawed antlers, jawbones and scat littered the landscape. Then an curios fox family spying on our tents.
Ancient tent rings and spear points marked a site as a historic wildlife and hunting hot spot.
Then it all started. We saw bull moose feeding in the river, a mother with calf resting in the shade, one early morning a wolverine came to drink at the mouth of a creek, we took pictures of grizzly and fox , right from camp, peregrine and gyr falcon and rough legged hawk, arctic tern and jaeger, geese, tundra swans, mergansers, ducks, arctic loons and sand hill cranes with their gurgling calls.
Then one evening the caribou were there. First a few on the hill crest, then more little herds , more and more,- thousands- how many we could not guess, until the morning they kept coming and disappearing over the next hill crest.
After that every day there were stragglers here and there.
Only the 3.000 musk oxen managed to elude from our vision in these wide open spaces, though I am sure they were closer than thought.

The Thelon is a river also beginners can paddle confidently. Out of 8 boats only one boat swamped in the only rapid along the 300 km we traveled.
Good camera equipment and a mosquito jacket are a must on this river. It is the black flies that are the greatest deterrent to coming here. Air temperatures between 6 and 29 C and even water temperatures of up to 19 C made August a perfect time to travel, although weather must always be regarded with high respect.
Our pick up by bush plane on tundra tires had to be delayed for 48 h due to high winds and low visibility.

Ideal trip length: 15 days on the river + transport
for more details and pictures please contact me at:
info@boreal-vagabonds.com
http://www.boreal-vagabonds.com/
or send a mail to dave@northernsoul.ca or info@naturetreck.ca

Thelon River

noreply@blogger.com (Simon) — Wed, 30 Jul 2008 16:48:00 +0000

My next adventure will traverse the last charted section of the North American main land, the the Barren Lands of the Thelon Country.

The Thelon is famous for the "Thelon Oasis". This ecological phenomenon is rudimentary boreal forest 200 km north of the tree line, which is linked back to a warm period before the little ice age. A deep, shielded valley and warmer waters from a north moving river have preserved a boreal 'finger' adjacent to the Thelon's banks.

Long known to the Etthen Eldehi Dene and Inland Inuit that were the subject of Farley Mowat's "People of the Deer" as a supream wildlife breeding ground, todays Thelon Wildlife refuge is sanctuary for up to 300.000 barren ground caribou.
To protect a rapidly dwindling population of muskoxen, an area of 26,000 sq miles (North Americas and possibly the worlds largest game sanctuary) was set aside from all native and non native hunting and trapping in 1927, as recommended by Hanbury and the ill fated Hornby.

Today the status of this sanctuary, and its protected caribou and since recovered muskoxen population are threatened once more by diamond (read article Diamonds in the Wild) and especially uranium mining companies such as Uravan Minerals and UR Energy who have already claimed mining properties adjacent to the sanctuaries boundaries, and have exploration projects well under way. (Since 2000 uranium prices per pound have increased from 7.50$ to 125.00$)

As deposits were discovered in the 70s and 80s, already the government slowly faded out including the sanctuary on public maps. Of course by that time it had long been discovered by modern day canoeist, who loudly protested. Today the future of the Wildlife sanctuary is once again in question. The formation of Nunavut and claims to hunting right by Dene and Inuit are closely monitored by the mining industry, who believe that a newly opened discussion my be an oportunity to get their foot into the door.
(please read up more and make your opinion be heard-)

But enough of the dooms talk, our goal is always to raise awareness by promoting beauty, so stay tuned for the trip report and pictures.

Further info on the Thelon can be found at www.thelon.com
I will lead this trip with Chris for Northern Soul
And as always I can be found at Boreal Vagabonds
www.boreal-vagabonds.com
info@boreal-vagabonds.com

Teslin River

noreply@blogger.com (Simon) — Wed, 30 Jul 2008 15:56:00 +0000

I have just returned from the Yukon, guest guiding for Ruby Range Adventures on the Teslin and Yukon Rivers. Those of you you have been up there know the difference between big river and our pool and drop rivers. - The current gets you there-
Topography and the Yukon's distinct visible micro climates , gold rush history and wild life were some of the highlights, as was the illusive grayling that made for good stickfish (bavarian delicacy at beer gardens, the liberally salted fishsickle makes you drink like a fish) snacks on a few occasions.

I have also guided my oldest client to date, Paul, who at 78 was a real sport. His daughter Susan had sponsored and accompanied him on this, long dreamed of journey, he claimed to be his last adventure. Paul, who is battling cancer, I wish you all the best of health and am proud to have had you on the team, your spirit was an inspiration.

Pictures: A) Leaving camp 3, where caribou crossed the bay as we pitched our tents
B) Manuel with Stoeckerl Fisch
C) Old Sternwheeler Evelyn on Hootalinqua Island
D) Paul in Bow, Susan in Stern

www.boreal-vagabonds.com
info@boreal-vagabonds.com

Paddle Fest 2008

noreply@blogger.com (Simon) — Sat, 14 Jun 2008 04:43:00 +0000

Paddle Manitoba had it big annual paddle fest just last Sunday and it was a full success.
Over 500 guests showed at Fort White. Gear, clinics and lots of folks from the Manitoba scene; All on the only - most beautiful sunny and warm day with torrential downpours on both the days before and after. Was that luck or divine intervention?
If you were looking for me - I could be found in one of the two large voyageur canoes circling the lakes.
Find me today? www.boreal-vagabonds.com

Fun Play at Cooks Falls

noreply@blogger.com (Simon) — Fri, 30 May 2008 01:31:00 +0000

Who spent some time outside last weekend can imagine the fun we had playing on the Whitemouth with sound effects and light show as one CB after the other rolled by.

Paddling Seasons here

noreply@blogger.com (Simon) — Thu, 29 May 2008 05:05:00 +0000

Hey all you paddling keeners

Finally lakes and rivers are ice free and temperatures are approaching 20C or more on a daily bases.
A great time to think about the coming months, if you haven't already.
Need Ideas? You know where to find us.

Just to get your appetite for the great outdoors going, I brought some pics and video for you from last weeks Black River trip.

Enjoy the season