Bow Hunting, Archery, performance hunting, shooting and advanced archery products

American Military is the BEST in the World!.......

2011-09-08T08:45:00.001-05:00

Odd title for what I felt compelled to write tonight, but had to take a deep breath, relax and try and not drop the F'Bomb toward how very upset and highly disappointed I am in American Management and Leadership in America today... or more to the point, the very impotence and total lack of leadership...

I had to reflect today and pull back to my managerial roots and where they came from the strongest of all... No, my skills, leadership, reasonable risk-taking, brass balls and "just do it" attitude toward business and holding people accountable and responsible were all forged 100% of my USAF Military experiences in life NOT COLLEGE!

Leadership is earned, not learned. Leadership comes by example and experiences. You are not born a leader (yeah that will raise controversy) but you first earn respect, honor and leadership naturally follows.

By extreme contrast, American Business seems to be among the poorest managed in the World and we have lost our ability to lead, direct, manage and hold people accountable for their actions. (OK a little exaggeration NOT!!!! but I'm trying to make a point).

Let's look at the real problem..

In the military you get promoted based on your performance. They also have a policy of firing anybody who's passed over for promotion twice..

American business tends to reward those with the best connections to the board rather than past performance and those that roll over, kiss ass and tell the boss what they want to hear, not what they NEED to hear. Why? Because it is a career killer and it is NOT safe. So the weak and impotent "leaders" tell the CEO's and Boss-man or woman everything that is great in their company despite the profitability tanking and production and quality suffering.

In American Business if your career stalls out that's where you remain.. All you need to do is not screw up in a way that points back to you.. You sitting in that position prevents better qualified people from coming up and replacing you and you stagnate the company for which you work and the boss rewards this.

I have always believed the ONLY competition I have and ever will have is complacency and status quo. Those are actually everyone's real 800 lbs. Gorilla and killer competition, not the other store, company or manufacturer down the street, across town or even across the pond (yeah Europe)...

In the military the difference in pay between the lowest recruit and the the top general/ admiral is maybe 20 times.. (I haven't checked for actual numbers but you are not rich at any rank...) If you look at the pay for top business executives it's a 1,000's times or much more. And that is cool, I am perfectly fine with REAL leaders, CEO's, CFO's, COO's making very, very large salaries and BIG Bonus Checks... but not golden parachutes for their failures and a "get out of jail free card if you mess up...

Compare that to the pay of the top management of successful companies.. Toyota/ Honda it's something like 12 times, Mercedes Benz it's 17 times etc.. None of those companies have had to go to the government for bailouts.. Look at Ford Motor Company! Success is repeating what worked and how it worked in the past... nothing has changed in terms of why people buy or spend their money. Leaders lead and take reasonable risks. Therein is the major problem... leaders will not lead or take risk... they make excuses of, "it requires approval of the board of directors or the investors or the banking leaders.... blah, blah, blah.... ) BULL CRAP! LEAD! HAVE BALLS and LEAD!

So how to fix American Businss? Bring to the boards attention to the facts.. Management is draining company assests to pay for massive paychecks with little to no performance or penalty for lack of performance. Neglect of the worker and neglect of holding people accountable.

That pure and simple is why jobs have been leaving here to go overseas.. For example All airbags used in American cars are made in Finland or Canada. Finland? Canada? Higher labor rates, higher taxes, and those airbags get an expensive trip across the ocean plus import duty. (and local shipping) Seatbelts are made in Germany, wiring in Japan, etc. etc..

The reason for that is management doesn't have to build state of the art new factories and train or pay for workers to build them but then realize that the very people that purchased those goods ans services are the very workers they failed to hire, train and promote and pay a fair livable wage with chances for advancement through what??? PERFORMANCE!

The other reason - GREED MISPLACED! I do agree GREED IS GOOD, but never forget your roots and never distribute wealth but make wealth available. GOOD THINGS DO NOT COME TO THOSE THAT WAIT... GOOD things ALWAYS come to those that WORK!

Want another reason why American Business goes overseas or does not expand here in the US?

No capitol outlay means management can take bigger rewards for profit because they aren't reinvesting, they are not taking risks... they are sitting on meaningless cash.. That's draining companies of their real strength, that is the very thing draining America of leadership and being the best in the World just like our US Armed Forces are the best because of a simple thing... LEADERSHIP!

If you are a CEO reading this... I challenge you to LEAD! Make a decision to not hire 10-20 people, hire 1 or 2 just that many... but hold them accountable for achievable and realistic results... make it happen! If they do not perform then fire them! But reduce your bonus for the mistake you just made.

Bottom line... get off hording cash and SPEND! Bring alive the American Economic Engine again and NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER give up!

Your only competition is complacency and Status Quo... Do not become a poor leader or poor American Patriot.

If you agree with this... please forward on to your FB Wall - Post, Copy-Paste, email or Share to others Walls and Groups.... American Business needs to rise up and lead. The impotence of American CEO's and other leaders need to be called out and held accountable.

I am asking my FB American Patriot Customers, Friends, Past Customers, Future Customers.... Rise up and LEAD...

If you are my customer, then order a custom rifle from me for yourself.

Reward yourself for a great day, week, month or year. Reward yourself for your own birthday, promotion, birth of your child or children. Order a rifle now for your newborn child to have a classic that is timeless and engineered like no other rifle on the planet.

Or purchase a custom rifle for our spouse, girlfriend, boyfriend or significant other in your life....

Oh yeah, and do not forget to call me up with your WCG, Inc. Custom Gun order at: 731-412-0092 in Tennessee or my cell phone at: 731-607-6527 or in the great State of Alabama at: 334-787-9646.

When you are the best and offer your customers the best, asking for the order is the other "failure" in American Business... close the deal! Ask for the order and DELIVER the best quality to your customers. PERIOD!

Your friend,

Corey B. James

RetinalIQ Bowsight

2011-05-04T19:42:00.003-05:00

Today, I fully executed and tested the RetinalIQ Bowsight and there is simply no comparison to the Anchor Sight, or Hindsight product. PERIOD! 20, 40, 60 80 yard pin sets on a 4-pin set up. This sight rocks!

This is the real-deal, no exception the very best that allows you to fully extend your shooting +20 yards with no adding of a peep or kisser required. The visual of the RetinalIQ is clear, precise and intuitive. It will not allow poor form and perfects your shooting hands down the very first time you shoot with it.

The very large and poorly designed and engineered Anchor Sight has no comparison to this RetinalIQ Bowsight. You can order in 4, 5 and 7 pin configurations and the company will help to custom design your sight to your needs.

WCG, Inc. even offers customization of these uniquie bowsights in aluminum anodizing options, lighting and other pin configurations non-standard from factory options. We can not only help with custom configurations but custom setups custom engineering and help to perfect your installation to the bow of your choice. This sight is extreme quality and my only complaint was no extenal ability to add a light source, but that was quickly resolved with WCG, Inc. engineering... pins for your average hunting do NOT require external illumination and the RetinalIQ Retinal Lock Center-shot image is very easy to see in very low light (such as when you are in a ground blind).

This sight takes a while to do final dial-in and expect to perfect it over the course of a day and a half, but once you get this set to your anchor point and your touch points, you will be shooting beyond your own belief!

See their website > http://www.iqbowsights.com/

You NEED to see this video > http://iqbowsights.com/Commercial/index.php This is a NO BS the very best sight that we have ever tested. The accuracy and speed blows the competition away.

We have tested Spot Hogg, Viper, Black Gold and many, many others... we have also tested extensively all these other "no-peep" options and again, NONE are sexier, none are better than the RetinalIQ Bowsight. PERIOD!

Here is the sight mounted on my Hoyt Carbon Element:

RetinalIQ dialed-in and deadly accurate

Pure sexy mounting of the RetinalIQ Bowsight

Why it works...

Most bowhunters are confident shooting at shorter ranges. But, get out to 40 yards or beyond and they lack consistency.

This is because of mis-alignment due to bow torque or inconsistent anchor. It doesn’t take much.

A 1/4” translates to a 10 inch miss at 40 yards (see diagram below). That’s about to change!

IQ Bowsights revolutionary Retina Lock Alignment Technology puts you in perfect alignment for every shot.

It’s easy to use and you’ll instantly be shooting short range groups at long range distances!

Perfect shot by perfection in repeatable alignment.... PERIOD!

RetinalIQ works because it does not allow you to modify your perfect form once set to your Anchor Point... it NEVER changes!

Archery Elk Hunting

2011-03-12T18:20:00.004-06:00

What kind of equipment do you need to bring and how to prepare for the hunt? Based on my years of experience, the following list is what I believe you will need:

Compound Bow: with draw weights between 60 and 70 pounds are adequate for elk hunting. There are lots of good bows on the market and it really doesn't seem like any one make is much better than another.

Passion in bow brand loyalty is stronger than anything to the point of many people choosing the wrong bow just because their buddies claim Mathews, Bowtech or Hoyt are the only bows to buy... The point is, all makers are producing good bows. The key is keeping up to date with bows. If your bow is over three years old, it's a dinosaur regardless of the brand.

Bows really are improving that much each year. Mathews continues to be the most popular bow but Bowtech, Hoyt and PSE also have entered the hunting world with vengeance. Mathews has always been the hunting bow of choice, but Hoyt and BowTech have finally started to make some wild hunting bows of extreme accuracy. I personally shoot them all, but my personal preference is Hoyt.... a short 32" A-to-A Carbon Element 2011.

Do not choose brands based on what is popular or what your buddy claims is the best bow. Until you get that warm and fuzzy feeling when you shoot a particular bow don't settle... You're onto something when that happens. If you have confidence in the bow, you will shoot it better.

Practice Suggestions: To prepare for bow hunting elk, practice shooting off your knees, uphill/downhill, around obstacles, and any other unorthodox positions you can come up with. It matters little how well you shoot from the perfect standing position. Exercise!!! Try jogging around your house or wherever you can, until you are breathing heavier and then dropping to your knees and shooting. This type of shooting is what to expect on an elk hunt.

Even if you are not breathing hard from exertion, your heart will be pounding from adrenaline, so practice accordingly.

Practice shooting at 40 to 60 yards. Stay away from the close shots. If you practice exclusively at the longer distances for a while, your accuracy will improve. After shooting at 60 yards for a week, walk up to 20 or 30 yards and it's a slam dunk. If you can, practice exclusively with the broadheads you intend to hunt with.

Field points are too forgiving and let you get away with terrible form, yet still fly accurately. Set your bow up to shoot broadheads and practice with broadheads.

You're practicing for hunting, not the Olympics. I know they are hard on targets, that's just the way it is. Shoot at a larger spot than what comes on traditional targets.

Shoot at a silhouette target if possible, but a 12-inch spot is what you are trying to hit in real life on an elk hunt. Practice putting arrows into the 12-inch spot from 60 yards.

Estimating the middle of the spot is no different than estimating the center of your kill spot when the moment comes. It's a Pass/Fail kind of thing, just like hunting.

Another unorthodox practice strategy is to shoot arrow after arrow up until the week before the hunt. Instill your memory reflexes during that time.

The week before the hunt just walk out and shoot one arrow per session. It's time to work on making one shot count when you need it.

At the moment anyone shoots at an animal with a bow, it matters little how tight of a group you can get out of a 3 or 5 arrow volley. You only get one shot more than 95% of the time.

Practice making one shot count, both mentally and physically. It's hard to gear up and walk outside and just shoot one arrow when practicing. But ultimately, that's what you're practicing for. It puts emphasis on the one shot, whether it was good or bad.

If the arrow was a little off, almost no one can walk away without following with a second arrow. But if you will walk away, it increase your ability to make one shot count. If the arrow buries in the heart of the target, that was your goal and you walk away knowing you placed a kill shot. Let confidence breed confidence.

Sights: The fixed, multiple pin sight is used and preferred by most elk hunters. It requires no physical adjustment at any time trying to change a single-pin sight as a bull approaches, is not good.

I personally use a five pin sight. It has more pins than I need but it lets me practice at longer distances than I can shoot consistently and has been a good sight.

Do not choose sights with ANY loops of fiber optics that are exposed. Some sights gain more light on their pins by exposing lots of fiber optics. Brush on an elk hunt will rip them off and stomp them into the ground.

Make sure everything is tucked and tight. Plan on normal first shots at bulls being between 10 and 40 yards. However, as anyone who hunts elk for very long knows, too many times the bull of your dreams is standing in a meadow, broad sided, 60 yards away, and it's now or never.

Trying to Kentucky-windage a 60-yard shot with a 40-yard pin is not good. Setting up a typical 5-pin sight at 20, 30, 40, 50 and 60 yards will cover all your bases.

If you've practiced for it, you should be able to make that shot. It's a higher percentage shot than trying to shoot in the thick stuff at 25 yards. The limbs wreak havoc on our hunters' arrows more than anything. If you know the distance and angle, it's doable.

Arrows: Carbon arrows are used almost exclusively these days for elk hunting. There are lots of good arrow makers on the market with each boasting some claim to fame. I have used them all... Radial X Weaves or Gold Tip 5575's are a great choice as are many others at 395 grains plus!

The .003 inch Gold Tips are straight, shoot great and they don't cost as much. Vanes are superior to feathers in elk hunting. Feathers are too fragile. Rain, brush, and everything in between will shred feathers.

Most hunters are using the shorter 2-inch vanes these days. I use three 2-inch blazers with absolutely no offset. I get good broadhead flight without any offset, so I don't use it. There is less air drag with a straight fletch and it doesn't drag in the Whisker Biscuit if you use those over a good drop away rest.

Arrow weights around 400 grains are average. Much lighter and penetration is hindered. Much heavier and you better know your shooting distance as trajectory becomes an issue.

Broadheads: I realize that opinions on broadheads vary tremendously and are highly controversial, not to mention personal. There is no way around it. But, I see so many hunters bring projectiles not designed for large and tough game such as a mature bull elk.

Many hunters are usually bringing whatever projectiles they have used comfortably in the past, usually hunting whitetails. What works great on deer, does not necessarily work great on elk.

An elk is at least 3-times larger than a deer and 5-times tougher to kill. The key to a broadhead's success on an elk is a healthy combination of cutting area and penetration. Deer-sized game requires lots of cutting area, with little regard to penetration, in order to maximize the energy of the broadhead.

Getting an exit hole on a whitetail is usually no problem. Getting an exit hole on a bull elk is a problem. Penetration is now as important as cutting area. Most broadheads on the market are designed for effective penetration on deer-sized game. Hence the problem.

An exit hole will almost always provide a better blood trail than an entrance hole alone. Especially if shooting downhill. Too little cutting area on an arrow and the projectile blows through the animal too easily and doesn't expend enough energy in the animal.

I prefer elk hunters use some type of cut-to-the-tip, 100 to 125-grain, 2-blade (with or without bleeder blades) broadhead. It is my opinion, chisel-tip and 3-blade heads do not penetrate as well as a 2-blade head. Even 2-blade heads with bleeder blades seem to out-penetrate everything else.

One thing to consider, the steepness of the cutting angle affects the penetration capability of a head greatly. A long, tapered head will out-penetrate a short, steep-angled head of the same cutting area.

Even cut-to-the-tip 3-blade heads seem to "punch" holes more than cut them. Serrations are not necessary on a razor-sharp head. A "clean" cut will bleed more than a "torn" cut.

Also, no type of expandable head, even with a cutting tip, should be considered for elk hunting. Do NOT bring expandable heads of any kind. Nearly all options and angles that are possible to shoot an elk, with an arrow, require an entrance wound through some part of the rib cage.

Elk ribs are large. Hit one dead-center with an arrow and you'll soon discover how good your broadhead really penetrates. The tough, 2-blade heads (even with bleeders) are the best design for slipping between ribs and expending as little energy as possible just getting into the elk. Depending on the angle of the shot through the ribs, the only part of the anatomy that will prevent any arrow from a complete pass-through is hitting the backside shoulder bones.

No broadhead can help us here. The broadheads listed below are the types of heads I recommend. Because there are so many makers and types of heads that classify as cut-to-the-tip, it is impossible to list all of them that could work. It's the design more than the manufacturer.

If your bow does not shoot consistently with any of the recommended heads, there is something wrong with either your bow setup or your shooting form. Field points let you get away with terrible form/setup and still correct themselves and group well.

Even some smaller broadheads will fly OK. Most often, shooting good groups with cut-to-the-tip heads is a matter of setting your bow up for them and practicing with nothing else.

Recommended Broadheads: What you shoot best with but two blade blood runners are hard to beat on Elk.

Arrow rests: Try one of the new drop-away rests or a Whisker Biscuit. The drop away eliminates vane clearance and also lets you shoot either an aggressive offset or a helical fletching.

Both can help stabilize erratic broadhead flight. Whisker Biscuits are becoming more common in the elk woods for their ability to hold a nocked arrow securely but many new drop away now like the RipCord Code Red hold your arrow securely. Problem with the Whisker Biscuits are torque and making a 1/8" mistake at your bow translates to major issues down range at 40+ yards, you will miss your Elk.

Release: Mechanical releases are highly recommended over fingers. There is no questioning the increased accuracy of the release over fingers. Since shot placement is everything on an elk, any advantage in accuracy should be utilized to minimize the chances of wounding a bull and losing it.

There are tons of releases on the market. Just get one you are comfortable shooting.

Quivers: Bow quivers are by far the most popular but I personally feel that mounting a 2-piece quiver on your bow, while your choice still sucks! Either get a lighweight and removalble 1-piece or don't use them!

Get a lightweight, quiet model that holds from four to six arrows. Practice shooting with your quiver on your bow if you insist on using one mounted to your bow. Personally, you need to look at the CATQUIVER combo back pack and quiver... you may NEVER again choose to mount a quiver on your bow again. However, again if you are a die-hard quiver shooter taking it off to shoot is not a good habit to develop. It will screw you to the wall if you elk hunt very much.

Bow Sling: A bow sling is vital for carrying your bow all day between setups... several makers are marketing good slings. Find one you can get your bow in and out easily.

Binoculars: The 10x40mm glass is probably the best overall binocular for most elk hunting. The 10-power magnification is adequate and the 40mm objective, is bright enough in low-light conditions, yet the weight is reasonable. You can possibly get away with compacts for archery season if the binoculars are of high quality. Look for multicoated lenses exclusively. Beware of glasses that say "coated lenses" That means one coat. Also if you are looking at roof-prism binoculars, make sure they have "phase-corrected" prisms. If not, you are looking at an inferior glass. Upper tier models from Swarovski, Leica, Zeiss and other reputable companies are all good. Do your research and find one you like.

I currently use Military grade Steiner Predator binoculars. In sucessful Elk Hunting spotting and glassing all day are keys to success... Spend the money one time, the first time, and you have a worthwhile investment that will last your lifetime.

Rangefinder: Probably the biggest advancement in hunting over the last 30 years, is the evolution of the laser rangefinder especially for long-range archery.

It should be a vital piece of equipment to all archery hunters. From bow hunting to rifle hunting, they are essential for accuracy in range estimation. There are top optics companies making compact, yet powerful rangefinders. Leica and Swarovski are two of the best. The newer models have angle corrections built in when it gives you a distance reading.

http://weatherbyman.net

... this shot was almost spiritual ... like willing the arrow to the target by thought when in fact that is what happened!

2011-02-23T13:26:00.005-06:00

Hey all... a good friend of mind dropped by today and just amazing what good muscle tone, eye-hand co-ordination can do if the brain doesn't screw it up by over thinking the situation. :)

I walked out back to about 55 - 60 yds, I don't really know exactly stopped counting past 160 feet, it was 50-something, stood there looking at the 23" target with a 3" orange circle in the upper left, visualized the shot, drew the bow, set-anchored, continued to visualize the arrow flight, corrected the trajectory, settled in, commenced executing trigger move to the release, and then suddenly the arrow was gone after the end of my exhale breathing cycle as if by magic!

... dead center shot (well ok, 1/2" high from center on a 3" spot at 53+ yards :)

... How does that happen? I have no idea how the brain actually anticipates or does the affirmation but it works!!! it JUST DOES! ... practice, form, more practice ... its amazing what you can do with positive affirmations and in competing with yourself and not someone else or trying to be faster, bigger or even more accurate... be accurate to make YOU happy is what makes for positive experiences. One could say "dumb-luck" and well yeah at that distance, I believe that accounted for 90% of the shot! :)

... this shot was almost spiritual ... like willing the arrow to the target by thought when in fact that is what happened!

Sometimes, I think all the gadgets on the market get into the way of how the brain, eye-hand co-ordination works -- and "minimalization" sometimes is a very good thing especially with a well tuned bow.

Oh, I forgot to mention .. it was with a bow I did not own 1/2" off my draw length (short), no peep and no kisser just front sight and a crappy cobra release (his) :) He wanted tuning advise with his bow... I handed it back and said, "no-charge, looks good to me" :)

CBJ - a.k.a. The "Original" Weatherbyman

http://weatherbyman.blogspot.com/

http://weatherbyman.net/

Archery Innovations No Peep Product

2011-02-22T21:50:00.004-06:00

I evaluated the Archery Innovations No Peep and can honestly say not worth the headaches. The Aluminum no-peep is well made but the micro adjustments consisted of a screw and set screw to "bend" in the aluminum frame of which is considered the vertical and horizontal micro-adjustments.

Adjusting for horizontal and vertical alignment of bending or altering the primary mounting platform is never a good engineering concept. The "old school" brass washers utilized behind the sight housing and against the powder coated "universal" mounting bracket also is not what I would consider good mechanical engineering or design.

The lens (front and back) fogged when moved from low heat to high heat, has no sealed lens making water and dirt enter the lens areas.

Additionally, the universal bracket is ugly, cluttered, heavy and adds weight and bulk. Not only is this product not needed there is simply no need for any string mounted peep sight to shoot well. Simple three-point facial touch points and a repeatable anchor point are only needed.

I am out to 55-60 yards now using only the pins of my 5 pin custom Black Gold Ignite Sight. Peep Eliminator devices like no peep, peep eliminator and hindsight are simply not necessary to shoot well. I have many ask me how the hell I can shoot at distance with no peep and no kisser button and that answer is very simple... daily practice and daily muscle tone and 100% entire focus on my natural anchor points.

I practice 1-3 hours per day and tone my arms 1-2 hours per day. There is simply no equal for muscle tone, muscle memory and actual practice with the intended weapon.

This being said, the Archery Innovations product "as tested" is a well made device with some engineering improvements that would make this a very viable option to peep sights and also help to assist the beginner enjoy archery faster. However, there again is simply NO equal to practice and if you change the true dynamics of archery in terms of form, touch-points, your poise and anchor points then I do not believe in a product that forces non-compliance of known skills that have been proved for hundreds of years...

I was offered 100% my money-back for this product but I was not interested as I was evaluating this product not for me but for others that insisted it was the best thing since sliced bread... of course the company offered my money back so that I would not write this blog or offer my opinions of the product in an un-biased format... not bashing the product but stating simple facts of engineering deficiencies and also deficient design considerations under real hunting environments....

Practice makes "near" perfect... you do not need this product or products like it to shoot very well.

CBJ

Ethical Archery Shooting Distance vs. Capability...

2011-02-13T16:53:00.005-06:00

Ethical Shooting Distance
Myths abound about how far archers should shoot at game. You hear them in almost any Pro Shop just a month or so before the season... Some bowhunters are opposed to shots beyond 30 to 40 yards. In reality, ethical shooting distance must be an individual choice -- not a rigid, mandated matter that you must or have to follow. Practice distance shooting (40, 45 and 65 yards+) and if you can place it, penetration on light skinned animals like SE Deer are an easy kill even out to 70-80 yards with a properly tuned bow and capable speed and good choice of broadhead and arrow shafts.
On average, a beginning bowhunter cannot hit a deer's vital eight-inch chest zone beyond 20-25 yards. Most of your intermediate and advanced bowhunters can hit an eight-inch target out to 40 yards easily.
I have always had a simple rule 1" @ 10 yds, 2" @ 20 yds., 3" @ 30 yds. less than 4" @ 40-45 and you are field ready to hunt anything.
A few bowhunters believe that longer shots increase the chance that target animals will move and take non-vital hits, however, studies indicate that closer animals are more intimately threatened by danger and thus likely to jump the string or duck under, or wheel at the sound of your bowstring. For this reason, there is no ethical objection to shooting at 50-yard or 80-yard deer, provided these animals are calm, and provided you are certain you can hit the mark on your quarry.
Broadhead Accuracy
Broadheads are prone to veer off target unless a bow is perfectly tuned, for this reason, many archers believe that broadheads and field points never hit the same place downrange. The truth is, a perfectly adjusted bow shoots all types of arrowheads in the same place.

The key is using heads that weigh exactly the same. If your field points, blunts, and broadheads all weigh 125 grains, for example, your setup will theoretically produce identical point of impact. 2 Blade broadheads typically have a high flight path vs. a 3-blade and the more blades = more drag.
The real trick is practice and tune your bow for the intended arrow shafts and broadheads... Unfortunately, many bowhunters and even archery store owners do not offer this assistance up easily to the average bow hunter... so you are pretty much on your own. The result is erratic point of impact and the reinforced notion that consistent accuracy is impossible. You need to clearly identify your three "touch-points" and repeat this always regardless of your stance.
By learning solid bow-hunting basics and learning your facial touch points or anchor point and in obtaining arrowheads of identical weight matched to the correct arrow shaft and fletching you can vastly improve your groups.
Forget speed, shoot for accuracy first... then up your speed!
Corey B. James
a.k.a. the "Original" Weatherbyman - CBJ

Isometric strength training for archery

2011-02-13T07:09:00.007-06:00

Isometric strength training for archery increases your arm and back strength that you need to be an effective archer or a archer-bow hunter.

Most professional sports teams utilize strength training as part of their conditioning program.

Progressive resistance, strength or isometric training is a necessary part toward becoming a highly accurate archer.

Strength training for archery will yield many benefits such as improving your aim and your draw weight, thereby increasing your arrow flight speed and increase the distance at which you can take down your intended quarry. Strength training will enable you, if you are a bow hunter, to go after bigger game like, Elk and Bear.

There are many ways to increase your strength for archery. There are some archery exercisers sold on the market today such as the Bowfit that can provide you a decent workout.

This archery exerciser is very low in cost but unfortunately only allows you to train in one specific movement to build the archery arm but does not address the entire muscle groups involved in archery. Isometric strength training is a key element toward improving your accuracy and your draw weight.

To become better at Archery it's important that your exercise routine include exercises that are "Sport Specific" as well as strengthening your core muscles.

You will get the maximum results from a strength training program if you perform exercises that closely mimic the actual sports movement, not a generalized exercise program.

It is vital to strengthen all of the supporting muscles. Such as, shoulders, chest, stomach, trapezius muscles, biceps and triceps. By strengthening your entire upper body and your legs you will have a stronger base from which to shoot from.

The quickest method to increase archery strength is by using isometric exercise. Isometric exercise is a training protocol that has been established in bodybuilding for a long time now.

Further, isometrics have been used for rehabilitation exercises for years. Isometric exercise has the advantage of increasing muscle and ligament strength, both at the same time.

Strength gains from isometric exercise have been very well documented. Increases in strength of 300% in as little as four weeks are possible. What this means to an archer or bow hunter is that you can quickly improve your aim and draw weight for that up and coming archery season or continue to increase strength by working out all year long.

If you are not familiar with isometrics here is a quick example of an isometric exercise that you are now performing. When you draw your bow and hold it steady to aim it, you are utilizing isometrics.

The simple act of holding the drawstring in is in essence what increases your strength... this is isometrics, not so hard to do with todays modern compound bows as the let-off is exceeding 80% and therefore do not require great strength to "hold the draw". Isometric tools are required like the Bowfit trainer vs. just practicing with you bow on a daily basis.The Bowfit trainer is an isometric piece of exercise equipment that when properly used will give maximum results in a very short time.

The best of course is an isometric exerciser but you can also use a good set of resistance bands in lieu of a Bowfit. One of the advantages of these two pieces of exercise equipment is that you can exercise your total body as well as perform “archery specific” exercises at a very low cost.

To continue to work for maximum draw strength in conjunction with the Bowfit, I highly recommend the ISO7 Exerciser.

http://www.tryiso7x.com/default.asp?tcode=asp3&CD=CD2232-&bhcp=1

The combination of the ISO7 + The Bowfit Safari Trainer will have you increasing your strength, draw weight, speed and accuracy in as little as 4-8 weeks in most cases.

http://weatherbyman.net

http://weatherbyman.blogspot.com

Shooting a Hoyt Carbon Element without a Peep & Kisser Step-by-step...

2011-01-23T11:21:00.006-06:00

1. Remove the peep from the bow if you have a peep installed. Relax and have an affirmation in your mind and resolve that you intend to achieve your goal in becoming accurate and consistent with your bow without using the peep and without a kisser but of course a hell of a good quality bow sight installed. Single pin or multi-pin sights can be used and you do NOT need use of the "no-peep" type devices on the market like the Anchor Sight, Hindsight or the Peep Eliminator... you simply DO NOT NEED THEM! Any archer that tells you that you are crazy to not shoot with at least a kisser button or peep is not a real archer... you do not need a peep or kisser to shoot with a high degree of accuracy, but you do need far more patience, exercise and damn good equipment with hours or practice.

2. Find your anchor point and your natural touch-points in and natural peripheral references on the bow string so that it is just below or slightly above the string nock placement bead (or top D-Loop knot) if you have equipped your string with this item. I place my anchor point above the nock or D-Loop (top tie-loop/knot) to the corner of my lip be sure to allow enough space between the D-Loop so that the arrow nock can be slid onto the string and that it remains at level to your centerline... Whether you place your anchor point above or below the D-Loop depends upon the rest of your bow setup and how you have it tuned with or without a D-Loop. If you shoot a Gator Jaw release you know what I am talking about. If you shoot a release that is designed for a string D-Loop you will have many advantages over those that shoot a D-Loop and brass nock rings... don't add weight to your string YOU DO NOT NEED THEM!

3. Set up a 3" target about 11-15 yards from your standing point. Do this all free-hand keeping the bow absolutely steady while sighting shots and observing your hand position on the grip with a downward open-palm shooting technique. As an instinctive archer you must hold the bow in the same way it will be used in the field or on the range. Group tight at 15-20 yards under 2" then work up to 30, 35, 40 and 45 yards keeping at 4" groups, (no more) your goal. You must practice 1-3 hours per day, weekends included.

4. Shoot a group of three to four arrows to the target, aiming as you always have in the past reducing torque the best you know how and what all you have done before. When drawing, pull the string back until you feel the anchor point touch your face and remember this sensation at the corner of the mouth and the string touching the tip of the nose or not at all depending on your facial size and features... you will know and remember three "touch points" and they must be made when learning to shoot without a peep or kisser and depends on your use of release or no-release. Regardless, identify your particular three "touch points" and remember the anchor point by feel.

5. Pay very close attention to your stance, form and string-draw technique so these are the same every time you shoot an arrow. This will give you consistency as you also learn to level the bow limbs by feel and by your sight level (if so equipped)... you will know how much to adjust the intuitive anchor point so the bow is oriented in your hands the same way everytime you pick up your bow for the best accuracy possible without a peep or kisser button.

6. Practice shooting with foot placement at various angles to the ground on which you stand, if necessary, if you have any difficulty keeping the same footing and body form during each shot while making necessary adjustments just keep practicing on a level ground first. Practice daily anywhere between one and three hours at a minimum.

Over a period of time, an accomplished archer will notice that "instinctive shooting" skills will have been developed where your shooting technique becomes automatic without any second thought to the process. Accuracy to 60-80 yards is more than reasonable to expect and your 35-45 and 55 yard accuracy will be extremely accurate once you learn these instinctive shooting skills.

http://weatherbyman.blogspot.com

The new 2011 Hoyt Carbon Element

2010-11-22T21:11:00.002-06:00

This is just one sexy bow! Curves, complexity, smooth draw and smooth lines.

WCG, Inc. will be obtaining one of these in all black and performing a custom coating on the bow (matching the Weatherby Accumark Mark V Rifle) and add some very hot modifications to the QAD arrow rest, grip, cryogenically treated cams, limbs and sight mechanism for a truly modified custom Hoyt bow.

We will be doing testing at 58-60 lbs. draw weight at 27-27.5" draw lengths.

Additionally, we will be setting up with a custom WCG, Inc. Shark Release and D-Loop.

I have looked at the Hoyt Carbon Matrix, Carbon Matrix Plus and the others Hoyt has to offer and hands down the Carbon Element is the hottest one of them all. Very sexy curves!

Will be posting results soon as the build comes together...

LIMBS XTS Pro ARC
AXLE-TO-AXLE32"
BRACE HEIGHT 7"
DRAW WEIGHT40-80#
MASS WEIGHT3.6 LBS.
ECCENTRIC OPTIONS FUEL CAM
& DRAW LENGTHS 24.5-30"

SPEED= 323 FPS

The new Carbon Element™ is the pinnacle of Hoyt’s engineering and design dominance, and it shows. Meticulously crafted utilizing a patent pending hollow carbon tube design with high-performance carbon fiber, the 3.6 lb. Carbon Element is the lightest yet strongest bow we’ve ever mastered. Not only does carbon provide for an extremely high strength-to-weight ratio, it’s also warm to the touch, which you will appreciate on those frigid hunts.

Hoyt's patent pending carbon tube design reduces sound and vibration to unbelievably low levels for the ultimate, stealthy setup. With all the high-performance technology you can pack into a bow and racy cool looks, the 32" axle-to-axle Carbon Element is the world’s premier hunting bow.

Carbon ( /ˈkɑrbən/) chemical element with symbol C and atomic number 6. As a member of group 14 on the periodic table, it is nonmetallic and tetravalent—making four electrons available to form covalent chemical bonds. There are three naturally occurring isotopes, with 12C and 13C being stable, while 14C is radioactive, decaying with a half-life of about 5730 years. Humm Hoyt Carbon Element? :)

WCG, Inc.
the "Original" Weatherbyman
Weatherbyman Custom Guns, Inc.

Minimum Draw Weight for Elk

2010-09-29T08:24:00.002-05:00

My advice is shoot the heaviest draw weight you can comfortably shoot, whether it's 45 or 70--the elk can't tell the difference. The most important thing is practice, practice, practice, until you are able to hit your aiming spot under just about any condition.

One thing I noticed about many hunters here in the S.E. who come from a whitetail background is that they were used to shooting from a "normal" position, which isn't always the case in elk hunting or that matter spot and stalk or ground blind hunting elk or deer.

Practice standing, kneeling, crouching, peeking from behind trees, etc. Use a well constructed arrow (I'm a fan of the 300 Radial X Weaves) and a SHARP cut-on-contact broad head (G5 Montec, NAP Bloodrunner (3-blade for elk, not the two blade versions), Carbon Express Torrids, Muzzy broadheads...)), and wait for a good shot.

An elk is a big animal with a large target area and however with a tough body structure, and I've seen marginal shots from guys cranking 80lbs result in wounded elk.

A word of encouragement is that I know of a woman hunter on my FB site this past fall and she pulled only out to 50lbs and she did a major smackdown on a gorgeous 6x6 at 45 yards.

As far as distance, that depends on the person and their shooting abilities. I don't feel comfortable shooting at an elk past 40 yards, while I've witnessed many capable of 60+ yard shots.... If you'll be hunting during the rut (as I expect you will), shots probably won't be much further than 30-40 yards, depending on the terrain.

In the end however for elk, it is all about penetration and is the key component to kill elk. Choose the maximum draw weight that you can shoot effectively and keep your arrows at 400+ grains.

Take only a clear, broadside or quartering away shot at preferably under 35 yards if possible.

Elk are big powerful animals that can shrug off a marginal hit or lack of penetration far enough that they are many times never found. We all intend to take only a perfect shot, unfortunately the hit more commonly is less than perfect due to many other factors such as footing, position, branches, adrenaline etc..

Light bows and light arrows at high IBO speeds may be the recipe for S.E.whitetails, but your not in la la land anymore shooting from a tree stand... you are in elk country! You need all the kinetic energy you can get for elk.

Practice - preparing for a bowhunt - spot targets or 3D?

2010-09-28T08:48:00.001-05:00

What is the best way to prepare for a successful bowhunt - Spot targets, or 3D?

Really there is no substitute for either of them.

First, it allows the archer the opportunity to establish their shooting form and make it consistent. Anyone can learn to shoot a bow reasonably well in a very short time. Perfecting that shooting is what spot shooting is all about. The goal is to make your technique second nature. Every time you draw the bow, the anchor point is the same, the grip on the bow is the same, the stance is the same, the breathing, the posture, the release, and follow through are the same. Practice, as they say, makes perfect. This is so important for those hunting situations. Your shot technique should be automatic when that big buck steps out so you don't have to focus on every element of your technique. Shooting hundreds of arrows at spot targets will result in what many call muscle memory. Your body will KNOW if that draw is just right.

Secondly, spot shooting will allow you to get your equipment set up properly. Pre-measured distances will give you accurate settings for your bowsite's pin settings. Watching your arrows flight and how it impacts the target will tell you whether your bow is properly tuned, and allow you to make adjustments under controlled circumstances. You can determine the proper arrow, including spine, weight and length, tip weight and fletching, to pick the perfect arrow.

The combined gains of spot shooting will result in a honed archery form and properly prepared equipment.

To stop there however, will be a disservice to the game you hunt. Judging distance on live game is not an easy task. Game come in all different shapes and sizes. Misjudging distance WILL absolutely result in missed and worse, crippled game.

We owe it to the quarry we hunt to make every effort to be accurate in judging the shot distance. There is no substitute in this regard than 3D shooting at unknown distances.

You also first must find the deer! :) - I have been out in the field now Archery Hunting for 3 days and missed a great opportunity at throwing out a high shot due in part to not my lack of practice but my lack of practice with the intended broadhead for use at my quarry. If within 25-40 yards I am going to hit under 3" almost all of the time, so I was very prepared... however, what I failed to compensate for was the unknown of many variable... 1) an untested broadhead, 2) shooting uphill at 35-44+ yards (estimated) and I shot over my deer. How did this happen? Not because of lack of practice, but lack of multiple techniques and experience with "what worked"... changing my broadhead strategy mid-stream was my number one mistake.

Spot shooting at targets at prearranged distances does two things necessary for any successful bowhunt with the intended arrow (shafts) and of course your intended broadheads.

When practicing your archery at 3D shoots, avoid the temptation to share your distance views with your shooting partners. You need to develop these skills independent of your hunting associates. It will not be very often that you will be able to query your hunting partner about the yardage of a closing Buck.

Make sure your 3D practice includes all the kind of terrain you will be hunting as well. Uphill and downhill shots are very different from each other and simple horizontal shots. If you will be hunting from a tree stand, make sure you practice from an elevated platform.

Throwing lots of arrows at predetermined "spot targets" coupled with a bunch more arrows at good 3D courses, will enhance your total outdoor experience and will certainly increase your success rate during the actual hunt.

And in the end, this again is why they call it "hunting" and not "killing"

CBJ

Mountain Mike's Reproductions - Master of Skulls

2010-09-23T07:40:00.000-05:00

http://www.masterofskulls.com

FOR SALE! LIMITED TIME on a Custom Kaw 4X4 and trailer combo or part-out!

2010-09-22T07:42:00.007-05:00

Kawasaki 750 cc 4X4 2008 Model (side-by-side)
For Sale $9,000 USD or $11,500 Package (including trailer)
A hunter's dream package!
Call 731-617-7201 or post comment here

Trailer will part out at $1,600 if interested in trailer only or $11,500 for trailer and 4X4
Call 731-617-7201 if interested (selling 3rd Party) - Call or email me for technical specifications of the vehicle at weatherbyman@gmail.com

2010-09-21T18:39:00.002-05:00

2010-09-19T16:04:00.002-05:00

Yeah... right... I am looking at the product!

For my archery friends that may have a small issue or disability

2010-09-19T09:10:00.001-05:00

All,

I have many letters, e-mails, blog PM comments, calls, IM's and texts from many people that range from the very young to the very old.... many of these people wish to shoot compound bows but they simply do not have the strength or ability to pull a compound bow let alone hold the draw.

But there is a solution: (see link below):

http://bowdrawlock.com/

I have so many emotional and heartfelt letters from those that can once again hunt with a compound bow that it brings back very good feelings to me to know they are again shooting.

Even these "challenged" would rather use a compound bow vs. shooting or hunting with a crossbow and I find that very encouraging, brave and motivational... we all should! I am proud of you all that choose this path!

Let NO "disability" hold you from the enjoyment of hunting and especially archery...

CBJ

This blog is for "REAL" Archers....

2010-09-19T07:59:00.002-05:00

Traditional Archery is known as one of the oldest forms of Archery. Sorry, today's crossbows do not make you a professional hunter even if you go after bear with a Crossbow. ONLY true archery hunters use traditional bows or compound bows. Shooting a Crossbow is NOT archery and does not require the same skills at all.

This blog is for the true "archer" - if you are offended then do NOT join this blog. We are not blogging to create business, we blog to share the freedom of speech! This is why we are America. The 2nd Amendment is but only one we fight for.

There will be many, many things in my blogs and personal Facebook pages that offend, shock and just are so in your face it will piss people off. And guess what... if you do not have the balls to stand this heat, you will fail at everything you touch. If you do not like what you see here then "turn the channel" Go to some other Politically Correct and "flowers, peaches and cream" pussy, "girly-men" blog and have fun! You will NOT find anything PC on my blogs.

The Longbow is known to be one of the tradtional bows used by early man. There are even traditions still being held in certain parts of our world that still practice this ancient form of archery. History tells us that battles in the 14th and 15th centuries were fought by using Bows and Arrows as weapons.

When Firearms were invented they took the place of archery quickly because they had a greater and longer range, to use them did not require a lot of training, one did not require to have any specialty skills and they were far more lethal.

Archery, as we know it today, has become a popular sport which required putting together the International Archery Federation which needed to set guidlines for the sport and its equipment.

Archery bows are becoming more technically advanced but dont let that make you lose sight of the importance of gaining knowledge of the history of the sport, remember regardless to what features the bows are coming up with, the sport of Archery requires marksman type concentration and skills, and will forever be required if you want to master your bow...

Still hunting ... again, yes... more tips

2010-09-12T08:50:00.001-05:00

Some tips for aspiring Still hunter:

Move slowly! To still hunt you have to move slower than deer typically move as they browse through the woods. If you are working up a sweat as you are still hunting you are moving way too fast. Even working your way up a mountain in Colorado, if you are out of breath or sweating, you are moving too fast! I have a little trick I use to check my stealth. I try to spot a squirrel in the distance, and then still hunt that squirrel. I have actually walked by squirrels within ten yards or so, and not had them spook. If you can't fool a squirrel, you can't fool a deer! or, just try doing that with Turkey!

I was practicing this very tactic when I still hunted upon my first elk. Trying to sneak past two squirrels I spotted a cow elk napping in the afternoon. I was able to get within thirty five yards of her, well within my range, but I had a Bull only tag (yeah, Oregon!!! Spike Only!!!) And the squirrels never spooked!

Take a couple of steps, maybe three or four and stop. Your pauses may be a long a five minutes. Don't hurry the process. Which brings me to my next topic.

Scan, Scan, Scan. You will not suddenly see a whole critter in front of you. You need to look for the flick of an ear, an old colored line against a different background, or just quick movement. But to catch any of that you need to be concentrating. My first shot a deer while still hunting came as a result of seeing an odd movement. As I focused on the movement, I could see a four point buck using his antler to scratch his back. He as facing away from me, and I closed to within 35 yards, and waited for him to get up. He did, but I had such a case of buck fever, I shot over a foot over his back! But what a thrill to get that close.

Good Optics. I highly recommend using optics to help. Good binoculars will allow you to adjust the focus, and you can overcome the natural human tendency to look at the closest object. Try changing the focus of the glasses, and you will see that you can see through the brush to things behind. I have often spotted deer or turkey using this. I still hunt with my glasses in my right hand, and I scan everything I can at each pause changing focus so that I can see deeper into the surrounding forest. Dump the thought of laser sights or red dot sights or scopes on a bow... you just need a good single pin or multi-pin fiber optic sight of good (no, make that GREAT quality) like Black Gold! I mean go very good here, do not go cheap on sights for your bow or you pay the price of NOT getting anything!

Don't confuse still hunting with scouting. I know guys who try to do both, and in truth you will pick up a lot of information as you scan the forest around you, but you are not still hunting. If you are looking at the ground at droppings, scraps or rubs, you are not focused on seeing the animals you are hunting. Keep your focus on things in the distance.

Don't forget to look behind you. You are moving slow enough that something could be coming up behind you. When you pause to scan, scan left, right and behind you. Still hunting is not about getting somewhere, it is about going where you see game, so look everywhere.

Don't forget the wind. This is a no brainer, but don't forget it. I don't care what you do for scent control or elimination, you still give off a scent, so pay attention to which way the wind is blowing. If you are moving slowly and for any length of time, it is not unlikely that the wind will shift on you. Be prepared for that to happen. Likewise consider what the wind is doing, particularly if you shift your direction because of something you spot.

These are just a few tips. To still hunt successfully you have to still hunt - a lot. To be a GREAT hunter you have to still hunt! A LOT!!! But if you do you can add a level of excitement to you hunting that is beyond anything you can imagine. And as your still hunting skills improve, your still hunts may well turn into stalks, and that is even more exciting! Far better than sitting your butt in a tree stand all damn day and sometimes near night! :) - Stalking and Still Hunters are the better breed of true archery hunters and this does not include those of you shooting Crossbows! Sorry, I will say it again... if you hunt with Crossbows you are a pussy! Shooting them are fun, but you are NO Archer hunting with a crossbow!

2010-09-12T08:48:00.001-05:00

NAP used to be at the bottom of my choices, but not anymore... I love these!
BloodRunner 2-Blade

Field point accurate, fixed blade strong that’s BLOODRUNNER. The ultimate in combination fixed blade and mechanical technologies. Low profile in flight, massive cuts on impact. Choose from 2 1/16” open diameter 2-blade or 1 ½” open diameter 3-blade models. Both are super-strong, have the sharpest blades in the industry and deliver absolute dependability. Open. Closed. They cut no matter what. Guaranteed! Yeah, I would agree.

Thunderhead Edge

The Ultimate Thunderhead! THUNDERHEAD EDGE has all of the features that have made Thunderhead the standard in fixed blade broadheads and more! Exclusive straight/serrated blade technology is devastating on hide & flesh and saws through bone like a hot knife through butter. Offset blades produce gaping exit holes and massive blood trails. Prove design and precision manufacturing deliver tack-driving accuracy. Fully assembled ready to shoot.

Spitfire Edge

It’s a Spitfire on steroids! The SPITFIRE EDGE has the proven Spitfire features, strength, killing power and accuracy plus more! Exclusive NAP straight/serrated blades are devastating on hide & flesh, and saw through bone like a hot knife through butter. Offset blades produce gaping exit holes and massive blood trails. Proven design and precision manufacturing deliver “out-of-the-box” field point accuracy.

My favorite..... kinda hard to choose now.

CBJ

NAP Products

2010-09-11T13:04:00.003-05:00

http://www.newarchery.com/products/5-46/accessories/thunderblox.html

Very Kewl....

2010-09-11T11:50:00.001-05:00

WCG, Inc. Archery Products

2010-09-10T21:53:00.004-05:00

Weatherbyman Customs, Inc.

.22 Caliber Pellet Gun or Paintball... it is all your choice!

Hang up the rattling horns, but don’t hang up your season. Extend it with the Airow Gun .22 cal pellet attachment. It converts your bow to the most unique pellet thrusting machine in the woods. Perfect for year-round plinking to help fine tune your shooting skills and curb the long term effects of cabin fever. Shoot your friends with the Paint Ball Airow Gun when you get tired of shooting cans and small game.

Both the .22 Caliber and Paintball Kits are exclusively cryogenically treated by WCG, Inc.'s exclusive double-cryo treatment. These are not toys, they are for the serious .22 small game hunter or the die hard Paint Ball enthusiast that are serious about performance and accuracy. No other Paintball device is as accurate or as challenging as this device. Further, WCG, Inc. has developed a custom wrist release device specifically for high-performance target style match-grade shooting in the field! You can only get this new wrist release here at WCG, Inc. This device allows you to choose the brand and type of release head that best fits your style and your shooting needs. Our releases can be used with or without D-Loops, and you can choose to use Scott's, James-Greene, T.R.U.Ball or other release heads of your choice with our adaptation kits. Call us or email us atweatherbyman@weatherbyman.net - Developers of high-performance rifles, custom engineered bows, wrist releases and sighting devices all engineered for your hunting and shooting pleasure and enjoyment.

Why all men need to take up archery or bow hunting ....

2010-09-10T19:42:00.000-05:00

Just another reason to take up archery or bow hunting! How would you love to "coach" that!
:)

CBJ's Best Bow Hunting Tips

2010-09-10T17:25:00.004-05:00

Friday 09-SEP-2010

CBJ's best bow hunting tips!

Bow hunters don’t kill good deer consistently because they are all that good actually at archery! It is true sometimes deer hunters are lucky and a monster walks by, but those are isolated incidents few and far between! To kill deer consistently with a bow you need to practice and be using some sort of well thought out plan to outsmart the deer.

Location:
When picking a hunting location, you want to make sure your stand has some of the several necessities. First you need to be able to access your stand without spooking deer. This is one of the harder things to achieve. One way to help achieve this is to cut a path to your hunting stand during the late summer. You also will need at least two stands for different wind directions and various weather conditions... Also, you will need a location where deer will pass within thirty yards of your stand during normal shooting hours.

Pack it Light:
Another tactic is packing light so you can do more stalking and still hunting. What you need for this set up is a light tree climber and the minimum of gear so you are not dragged down during you hunt. To be successful you need to hunt slowly and patiently so you do not spook or miss deer.

The Little Things:
The little things all add up to be very important and can be the difference between a shot and staring at a bobbing white tail as the deer jumps away. First thing to do once up in a stand is check your safety harness and your bow to make sure they are functioning properly and that you can make a complete draw and release without getting a twig caught. Double check your shooting lanes, even a small twig can move your arrow enough to be off target and miss your kill.

Know the Land:
To be successful every year, you have to know every foot of the land you are hunting. This allows you to be able to change your plans quickly and to be to know where the most likely places the deer will be during a certain time. To do this you have to be able to observe deer and the signs throughout every season. Then once you file away that knowledge you will be able to be more consistent during the hunt in the coming season.

Start Early:
Trimming shooting lanes and putting up stands or ground cover and blinds several months before the season will help let deer settle down after you disturbed their peace and area. While you are trimming and setting up stands don’t forget to make a path to your stand so you can get their quietly. I have seen times when a person does all the work for the season a week before and they don’t see anything because they have spooked all the deer.

Being a successful hunter isn’t all about luck, it is about the preparation and practice you put in before the season. So, practice, be smart, and kill a deer this season.... um ok, make that many deer this season! Good hunting!

CBJ

2010-09-07T09:01:00.003-05:00

http://www.foremosthunting.com/Community/JoinOurCommunity/tabid/1010/Default.aspx