Give the bike a thorough visual inspection checking for such thing as rodent nests and the like. Those furry critters love to get into such places as under seats and inside exhaust pipes, any place with an opening.

Check your tires for cracks or bubbles, older tires should be looked at for dry-rot. Adjust tire pressure and check tread wear. Riding on slick and sandy roads are made that much worse when riding on poor tires.

Make sure all electrical connections are intact and unchewed, and make sure the battery is charged.

Check all fluid levels to insure that they are up to recommended levels, this includes transmission fluids and primary fluids also as well as brake fluid. Get fresh gasoline into the tank as soon as possible.

Check all gaskets for leaking, older bikes that are exposed to extreme temperature changes are more apt to have dried out gaskets that will begin to leak at some point.

Check for any loose bolts, nuts or screws and tighten if necessary to the manufacturer’s recommended torque specs. Make sure all cables are lubed and in good working order as well as all safety equipment such as lights and horns.

One of the things that is forgotten the most is to put this years’ registration sticker on your license plate as motorcycle registrations in Massachusetts run from December to December which means you will have a new sticker every time you re-register. I have a habit of leaving my new sticker and registration on the counter for months sometimes. In Massachusetts you must also have any registered motorcycle inspected at a state sanctioned inspection station by no later than May 31. Massachusetts has (and will be) become more stringent in what passes inspection, so be aware that the louder your bikes is or if you are missing such things as reflectors, fenders or mirrors, you will have a difficult time getting a sticker.

If you do hit the road soon, keep an eye out for potholes and frost heaves, this winter has been brutally cold and there are a lot more road hazards out there this year than last. If you need professional service or upgrade work done on your American V-Twin motorcycle, Boyd Cycles offer high quality service as well as upgrades. Remember that this is the time of year our shop start to get busy so I would suggest you book your service work now to avoid the rush. Boyd Cycles can be reached at (978) 744-7449.

In 2006, Harley-Davidson engineers designed a primary chain auto-adjuster. This auto-adjuster was installed that year on Dyna’s, and starting in 2007 on the rest of the v-twin fleet.Now in theory, the auto adjuster is a step forward. Like its predecessor, the auto adjuster consists of a nylon shoe that applies pressure to the primary chain to keep it reasonably taught. In order to take up the slack as the chain stretches, a ratcheting system was developed that ratchets up the adjuster shoe as needed. Sounds good in theory, but there is a problem.

Anyone who has ever ridden a shovel or older Harley, those with a chain drive to the rear tire, knows that chains do not stretch evenly. As our rear chain wore, we would frequently have sections of the chain that were unduly slack, while other sections that were way too tight. Additionally, chains will also change tension as they heat up. Well, the primary chain is no different.

With that in mind, picture a loose section of the primary chain in which the auto adjuster ratchets up to take up the slack. Now introduce the tight section of the primary chain, but the auto adjuster cannot loosen up. This is where the problem lies. The design of the Harley-Davidson primary chain auto adjuster only allows it to tighten the primary chain as it ratchets up to take the excess slack from the primary chain. This design cannot loosen up, it can only get tighter.

You can imagine how this plays out. Not only does your primary sound like a freight train is roaring through your primary case, but the undue pressure on your primary drive chain is notorious for causing transmission bearing failure, as well as crankcase bearing failure,  and even transmission spline destruction. In short, the auto adjuster will cause premature wear on your beloved Harley-Davidson’s primary drive system.

The M6 Primary Chain Tensioner makes a smoother ride by reducing annoying vibration, by keeping constant and correct tension at all times. Your transmission will ‘click’ into gear instead of ‘clunk’. It also improves shifting performance while extending the life of your primary chain. You’ll swear you just rebuilt your clutch and transmission.

When I researched the problems associated with the auto adjuster, I found only a very few alternatives. The Hayden M6 was the product that had been out there the longest, and had the most positive comments about it on the internet. Enough trial and error, I decided to go with what has been working for 25 years. I chose the Hayden M6 BT07.

Hayden Enterprises states, “The M6 automatically adjusts the primary chain on Big Twin Harley-Davidsons from 1965 to present. Now you can have the proper chain tension during acceleration and deceleration with the benefit of smoother shifting and less vibration. Riding with an M6 installed, your transmission will ‘click’ into gear instead of ‘clunk’. You will swear you just rebuilt your clutch and transmission. Reliable and practically maintenance free, the M6 delivers a noticeably smoother ride.” I have to concur!

If you could do only one modification to improve the performance and durability of your twin cam Harley-Davidson, I would highly recommend that you look into the Hayden M6 BT07.Boyd Cycles has them in stock and ready to go.  You too will be so impressed by the overall quiet and smoothness of your primary drive system, you might just think you rebuilt the transmission.

The bigger the cubic inches the more power your engine is going to have. For example a 103 cubic inch engine will create more power than a 96 cubic inch motor. Thus giving you more throttle to accelerate from the stop light or pass that annoying car on the highway. An engine is just like an air pump, the bigger the displacement the more pumping power. A V-Twin will also run smoother and experience better fuel economy once the airflow is opened up from a basic stage-1 kit (Exhaust, Air-Cleaner, Power Commander).

Frequently we’ll hear riders talk about how much horsepower their motorcycle makes. These claims are sometimes unbelievable. We’ll also hear some riders state that they prefer more torque over horsepower.  Harley-Davidson performance means different things to different riders. To some, it’s just about getting a little extra power and better sound from their Harley. Others want to produce 100HP or more.

Most Harley riders will feel the greatest benefits with torque gains in the low to mid rpm range. When you talk about Harley-Davidson performance, do you mean torque, horsepower or both?
•    Torque is pulling power. It’s this power that gets you moving and pushes you back in the saddle.
•    Horsepower is the higher-end spinning power that keeps you moving and generates top-end speed.

For most Harley-Davidson riders, it makes little sense to try to increase engine performance in the 4,000 to 6,000 rpm range, when most of your riding occurs between 2,000 to 4,000 rpm, especially when doing may negatively affect your torque output.

You can get good low to mid-range performance out of your Harley-Davidson engine without a ton of modifications. If you’re looking for better performance, the first question you need to ask is; “Torque or Horsepower?”

Here are some number that your stock Harley…

Harley-Davidson Twin Cam (1450cc / 88” 45 degree single plug v-twin with F.I.) – 62hp & 77 ft lbs of torque

Harley-Davidson Twin Cam (1584cc / 96” 45 degree single plug v-twin with F.I.) – 66hp & 82 ft lbs of torque

Harley-Davidson Twin Cam (1688cc / 103” 45 degree single plug v-twin with F.I.) – 83hp & 95 ft lbs of torque

Harley-Davidson Twin Cam (1800cc / 110” 45 degree single plug v-twin with F.I.) – 95hp & 110 ft lbs of torque

There is a potential major issue in the Harley-Davidson Twin-Cam engines. This is a statement of fact, not a bunch of wild guesses. I’m not here to bash Mother Harley, but you should be educated to its causes, and possible solutions.

Okay, what issue are we looking at? It’s a very serious one that is enough to alarm you. However, you can fix these defects and end up with a nice bike. Our objective today is to educate, and we are also going to outline some ways to fight back. Yes, even the new Harley’s have serious, potential problems. Even the expensive CVO (Custom Vehicle Operations) bikes have issues not to be taken lightly.

Here we go…..

The problem is the design of the cam chain system. It uses plastic “shoes” riding on the cam chains that can (and do) wear out. Harley has made some changes in later model bikes, but even with the new hydraulic tensioning system, it is not a true fix. What is the problem? The shoes rub against the two chains and the plastic shoes wear out. When they wear in extreme cases, there will be metal to metal contact and this grinding creates metal shavings that can result in a catastrophic engine failure. If not caught soon enough, this can be so bad that the entire engine can be destroyed; cams, pistons, crankshaft and even engine cases broken. It is a wickedly serious possible engine problem. Be aware… it can fail as soon 15,000 miles (in extreme cases). Even the newer hydraulic system can fail at 50,000 miles or less. The cam chain tensioners have a section in every service manual that covers the Twin Cam engines and is very enlightening.

If your pipes are loud, you may not hear or get any warning. The oil pump passages can clog up without making any noise whatsoever except when the engine starts tearing itself to pieces.

The scary thing is every Twin-Cam engine has the potential to have the cam chain follower issue, even the new models. Check things out before this happens to you. If it has a cam chains, it has the potential problem.

It is our intent to make you aware that pre ’06 Dyna’s and the 1999 to 2006 Twin-Cam Harley-Davidson engines have possible, serious issues and they can mess up. How? In the most severe cases, as the spring loaded cam chain follower fails it shreds plastic material that fouls the rotary gear oil pump cutting off oil flow to the engine that can cause sudden catastrophic engine failure and destruction. Also, metal to metal contact in these shoes produces metal filings to disperse into the oil prior to being filtered by the oil filter. If this happens be prepared (worst case) to buy a completely new motor as rebuilding the engine may not be feasible. This is not a likely situation, but a realistic possibility

OK, now that we have ruffled everybody’s feathers, how can we combat this? S&S has truly been visionary in solving this issue. They had the foresight to develop a gear drive system to combat this very issue. It is my opinion, that all Twin Cam engines should have this conversion done, so you can rest easy on your higher mileage TC engines. The gear drive replacement is an excellent and the only true bulletproof solution.

There are a number of combinations that will do the job, but one in particular comes immediately to mind. Feuling Motor Co. has a complete Camchest kit that includes the famous Feuling oil pump and cam plate, cams, lifters, pushrods, bearings, gaskets, O-rings, and even ARP hardware.

If you’ve ever sniffed the inside of a Twin Cam motor, you’re probably familiar with Feuling Motor Co. They are famous in hot rod circles for making serious performance components for motorcycles that make serious horsepower. Their cam plate and oil pump are probably what put them on the map, but over the years they have developed a complete line of products to turn your Twin Cam into the beast you want it to be.
The kits are available in either gear-drive or chain-drive applications and with your choice of HP+ or race series components. And they have a range of cam options in the form of Feuling’s own Reaper cams, available in lifts from 525 all the way up to 630. These kits take the guesswork out of finding the best combination for your beloved machine and ensure that each part will be working harmoniously with the next to give you the smoothest peak performance with maximum reliability. So use your garage time wisely this winter and roll out on the driveway with tires smokin’ come spring.

Well add some real power to it…Boyd Cycles has the Speakers & Amps to upgrade your stock radio. Dont waste your money on Hogtune or Harley’s Boom Audio, come down to our show room and hear the difference.Arc Audio

• No modifications required – bolt in, plug-in and go!
• Free-flow grill design ensures maximum sound transfer
• High quality glass-reinforced nylon adapters
• Complete with stainless steel mounting hardware
• 100 watts RMS / 200 watts peak
• Lifetime warranty

The question becomes, “How do I tap this hidden potential?” The single best way is a complete stage 1 kit. This includes a set of free flowing exhaust pipes, hi-flow air filter and a fuel management unit.

You can pick the exhaust that you choose whether it is a set of slip-on mufflers or a complete system including head pipes. In most instances, a stock head pipe will flow just fine for a stage 1 set up. Keep in mind; however, that after the 2010 model year Harley Touring bikes come with a catalyst in the head pipe. This catalyst will not only negatively affect flow, but will diminish the sound level that your new slip-on mufflers would otherwise provide. There are  many different styles and finishes of pipes to suit your personal preference. If you have a touring bike and would like to replace the head pipes, you can mix and match these with your choice of mufflers and get the style that appeals to you the most.

The next component after the exhaust is the hi-flow air filter. There are many of different choices to suit your needs. Air filter range in price from $ 75.00 up to $400.00…Don’t be fooled by looks & hi price units. some basic air filter are just fine…

Finally to complete the system you will need a fuel management unit. Power commander has provided numerous maps for different combinations of intake, exhaust and engine size. This unit will allow the fuel injection system to compensate for the extra air that your engine now has the ability to pump through itself.There are many of auto tune systems out there that are worth the money, no need to put your bike on the Dyno

These suggestions are by no means a one size fits all solution. If you plan on increasing the displacement of your engine, adding cams or making other radical changes in the future, these upgrades should be taken into consideration when you plan your stage 1 kit accordingly.

Oil has a tough role in Harley engines. It has to be able to flow through very small holes, into very small passageways at very low temperatures. And it must be able to resist thermal breakdown at high temperatures. Plus, it’s got to remain slippery enough to lubricate high stress points, such as piston rings and skirts, valve stems and tappet bodies, but not so slippery that it promotes hydroplaning or roller sliding.

When the engine gets hot, oil begins to deteriorate. As thermal breakdown occurs, the additive package (the chemicals in the oil that give it particular properties or characteristics) begins to break down. A good high-quality oil cooling system can go a long way in preventing this process from happening.

The first thing you need to consider when purchasing an oil cooling system (notice I said system) is the design, along with mounting hardware. A good oil cooler should be well constructed, with heavy fins in a solid frame and a heavy mounting bracket. The unit should be small enough to mount unobtrusively (Harleys look funny with radiators) yet still contain adequate surface area to promote efficient thermal transfer. Surface area is the key factor here. The more surface area you have, the greater its heat transfers properties. In the past, some oil coolers were designed with cooling fins on the inside of the passageways. Sounds good on paper, but there are some inherent problems with this feature, especially when it comes to Harley-Davidson engines. Since the oil cooler must be installed on the return side of the oil pump, the scavenge system is often overtaxed in its effort to overcome the additional resistance to flow created by the oil cooler. When that resistance is compounded by internal fins in the oil cooler, the result is usually oil carryover from the crankcase vent.