Boyd Cycles

Unleash the power of your Twin Cam

Ron — Tue, 30 Dec 2014 12:14:53 +0000

We get a fair amount of questions from customers regarding component combinations when it comes to Twin Cam engine components. Most of the questions revolve around the best combination for the everyday rider when it comes to cams, pushrods, lifters and such. And, to tell the truth, there’s really no one answer that is undeniably the right one.

There are a number of combinations that will do the job, but one in particular comes immediately to mind. Feuling Motor Co. has a complete Camchest kit that includes the famous Feuling oil pump and cam plate, cams, lifters, pushrods, bearings, gaskets, O-rings, and even ARP hardware.

If you’ve ever sniffed the inside of a Twin Cam motor, you’re probably familiar with Feuling Motor Co. They are famous in hot rod circles for making serious performance components for motorcycles that make serious horsepower. Their cam plate and oil pump are probably what put them on the map, but over the years they have developed a complete line of products to turn your Twin Cam into the beast you want it to be.
The kits are available in either gear-drive or chain-drive applications and with your choice of HP+ or race series components. And they have a range of cam options in the form of Feuling’s own Reaper cams, available in lifts from 525 all the way up to 630. These kits take the guesswork out of finding the best combination for your beloved machine and ensure that each part will be working harmoniously with the next to give you the smoothest peak performance with maximum reliability. So Call Us this this winter and roll out on the driveway with tires smokin’ come spring.

New Pipes? Are You Getting Everything You Wanted?

Ron — Sun, 28 Dec 2014 13:00:21 +0000

Your bike may sound great with new pipes, but are you really getting everything you wanted? An exhaust system is only one part of your engine’s breathing system. One of the most common tech questions we get asked is “Do I need to remap my exhaust if I add slip-on mufflers?” The honest answer, no matter what scare tactics your dealer tries to tell you, is no assuming you don’t make any other changes. The modern Delphi fuel injection system is a very advanced electronic device that can compensate for the slight change in flow as well as changes in altitude and temperature. Many people reading this would probably say the bike is lean from the factory, and while this is true, mufflers will not put your engine in danger. That only answers half of the question though. Consider this an engine is only an air pump. The more air you move through it, the more power you will make. Now, if all you do is add a less restrictive exhaust, you will still be limited on how much air the air pump can move as a result of the restrictive stock intake. That said, a set of slip-on mufflers on your new Harley-Davidson may sound like you are making a lot more power when in reality you are leaving a lot of untapped potential.

The question becomes, “How do I tap this hidden potential?” The single best way is a complete stage 1 kit. This includes a set of free flowing exhaust pipes, hi-flow air filter and a fuel management unit.

You can pick the exhaust that you choose whether it is a set of slip-on mufflers or a complete system including head pipes. In most instances, a stock head pipe will flow just fine for a stage 1 set up. Keep in mind; however, that after the 2010 model year Harley Touring bikes come with a catalyst in the head pipe. This catalyst will not only negatively affect flow, but will diminish the sound level that your new slip-on mufflers would otherwise provide. There are many different styles and finishes of pipes to suit your personal preference. If you have a touring bike and would like to replace the head pipes, you can mix and match these with your choice of mufflers and get the style that appeals to you the most.

The next component after the exhaust is the hi-flow air filter. There are many of different choices to suit your needs. Air filter range in price from $ 75.00 up to $400.00…Don’t be fooled by looks & hi price units. some basic air filter are just fine…

Finally to complete the system you will need a fuel management unit. This unit will allow the fuel injection system to compensate for the extra air that your engine now has the ability to pump through itself.There are many of auto tune systems out there that are worth the money, no need to put your bike on the Dyno, One of the best we seen out there is Zipper’s Thunder Max

These suggestions are by no means a one size fits all solution. If you plan on increasing the displacement of your engine, adding cams or making other radical changes in the future, these upgrades should be taken into consideration when you plan your stage 1 kit accordingly.

Interview by Beatown Bagger

Ron — Sun, 30 Nov 2014 16:18:18 +0000

the heart and soul of motorcycling – ron boyd

As part of our interview series, we proudly introduce Boyd’s Cycles.

This past Sunday I had a chance to visit [Ron] Boyd’s Cycles in Peabody, MA to check out the new shop (as of July) and understand what drives this local bike builder and business owner. We discussed his preference on brands including saddlebags, bars, suspension and tires. He also has some interesting predictions for the future of baggers and motorcycles overall.

The shop is conveniently located just a mile and half off of RT 95 in Peabody and has a ton of parking both out front and around back. [Much more below]

Ron and his lovely wife Lorraine were nice enough to meet me on a Sunday afternoon for what he self deprecatingly called the 50 cent tour and interview. If there is one thing I learned it is that Ron is incredibly humble and thankful for everything he has. As you’ll notice, Ron isn’t in too many of these pictures as he wants his work to be recognized and isn’t focused on bringing attention to himself.

Boyd’s cycles started in Salem in 2002 but moved to Peabody in July 2013. “Ballsy move to relocate in the middle of the summer, but it worked out with 30 bikes in the shop during the first week” exclaimed Ron. One of the first things you’ll notice when entering the shop is the openness and cleanliness of the place. It’s huge, open, bright and ever single tool is in its place.

Beantown Baggers: Why did you move?
Ron Boyd (RB): we needed more space. Now we have 3,600 feet in the shop and another 3,600 of storage.

BTB: What’s the mix of bikes you work on here?
RB: We’re about 75% baggers, a few old Harleys and some other random stuff. We do a ton of cams, three a week sometimes. We really try to improve the ride of any bike that comes in here. Suspension is big, good tires, bars and controls are pretty popular. We do some of the big wheel raked out bagger work but that’s not for everybody and we want to make riding more enjoyable.

BTB: Speaking about the big wheel craze, do you think Baggers are a fad like Choppers were?
RB: No, they’re just more versatile, though I do think the big wheels are not long for the ride.

BTB: You also mentioned suspension. Springs or air?
RB: I see a lot of air rides that fail. We always keep a pair of progressive 944 shocks here for demo rides but every time somebody takes them out, I have to buy a new pair of demo shocks.

BTB: Lorraine, Why do you think Ron is having success?
Lorraine Boyd: People like and trust Ron. He works really hard and is honest with his customers. He’s a small guy, just trying to make it and as a result, his customers are loyal to him.

Aside from running a successful shop, Ron and Lorraine do a lot to support the Wounded Warrior Project andOperation Troop Support (OTS). Stop by and ask about their involvement with these great causes.

If you get a chance, take the tour of the shop. Boyd’s cycles is at 25 Walnut St Peabody, MA.http://boydcycles.com

If you like this, take a look at some other interviews we have done by clicking here.

It’s All About the Air

Ron — Sun, 30 Nov 2014 12:19:24 +0000

Here’s a basic fact about the internal combustion engine: Every single one of them is just a variation of an air pump. As the piston goes down with the valve open, air — mixed with fuel — rushes into the cylinder. As the piston goes up, it’s compressed, spark occurs, power is made, and the spent gases are sent merrily down the pipe. To make more power, we need to get more air in and out of the motor.

“More air means more power” is the mantra for this blog post and the easiest place to show this is with the air cleaner assembly. Mother Harley is handcuffed by EPA regulations, but we can let loose of a few ponies by simply changing to a good quality air cleaner assembly The Hypercharger comes immediately to mind, as does the Forcewinder or the Revtech free-flowing air cleaner.

The less restrictive air cleaner allows more air and fuel (more air requires more fuel) into the cylinder, giving us our power increase. One thing to keep in mind: Any time you change the airflow through an engine, the carb (or EFI) must be rejetted or recalibrated.

Next on the agenda are exhaust systems. Now that we’re getting more in, our next objective is to get more out. I know that drag pipes are popular, but the fact is, they actually hinder performance. They work at the rpm for which they are tuned and kill power everywhere else. This can be remedied by adding baffles and reversion cones such as AR Power Cones, but these still aren’t as effective as other systems.

The best choices for making power are the 2-into-1 header systems such as the Thunderheader, or the Vance & Hines Pro pipe or a D&D FatKat. If you don’t care for the looks of this style system, excellent results can be had with the Bub series of pipes, or the exceptional look offered by Kuryakyns Perfect Storm. An interesting development in today’s exhaust technology is the double-wall constructed Double D’s — pipes that should be very blue resistant. By the way, improper jetting or timing is the primary cause of exhaust bluing. Being too rich is as bad as being too lean (and yes, there is a product out there to remove this called Blueaway).

Up next — if the pocketbook permits it — is a carburetor change. On Evo’s 90 and up, the stock carb is a CV Keihin. This is a great carb if it’s set up correctly. Its outstanding low-end performance is offset by its small size and wimpy top-end pizzazz. This works well around town but suffers in the big roll-ons on the Highway. By far one of the most popular parts sold are the complete S&S Super E kits . Once again “more air, more power.”

These American-made kits are easy to install and come with an outstanding instruction booklet. Another carb to consider is the HSR 42 Mikuni. A strong performer in its own right, it also comes with detailed instructions. Both kits offer well-designed free-flowing air cleaners. The traditional S&S teardrop was developed to increase airflow due to a vane cast into the cover. And as a bonus, it’s good looking, too! The only improvement I would recommend is to replace the foam element that is supplied in the kit with one of the K&N gauze-type elements . The Mikuni comes with the K&N-style filter. I like both of these and have no preference either way.

For you EFI guys out there, K&N — in conjunction with the fine folks at Dynojet — have developed the Power Commander. This little unit allows you to make whatever tuning changes required after changing pipes or other modifications. Well engineered, this unit is infinitely adjustable and user friendly.

As we discovered early last week, we can add Kuryakyn to the list of performance enhancers in the EFI market. Their combination of exhaust, air cleaner and TTS system is a great way to upgrade your stock EFI Harley and make great gains with a relatively short amount of money.

Something you should know about your Twin Cam Motor

Ron — Sat, 01 Feb 2014 13:07:14 +0000

Here is the ignored BEAST in the corner……

There is a potential major issue in the Harley-Davidson Twin-Cam engines. This is a statement of fact, not a bunch of wild guesses. I’m not here to bash Mother Harley, but you should be educated to its causes, and possible solutions.

Okay, what issue are we looking at? It’s a very serious one that is enough to alarm you. However, you can fix these defects and end up with a nice bike. Our objective today is to educate, and we are also going to outline some ways to fight back. Yes, even the new Harley’s have serious, potential problems. Even the expensive CVO (Custom Vehicle Operations) bikes have issues not to be taken lightly.

Here we go…..

The problem is the design of the cam chain system. It uses plastic “shoes” riding on the cam chains that can (and do) wear out. Harley has made some changes in later model bikes, but even with the new hydraulic tensioning system, it is not a true fix. What is the problem? The shoes rub against the two chains and the plastic shoes wear out. When they wear in extreme cases, there will be metal to metal contact and this grinding creates metal shavings that can result in a catastrophic engine failure. If not caught soon enough, this can be so bad that the entire engine can be destroyed; cams, pistons, crankshaft and even engine cases broken. It is a wickedly serious possible engine problem. Be aware… it can fail as soon 15,000 miles (in extreme cases). Even the newer hydraulic system can fail at 50,000 miles or less. The cam chain tensioners have a section in every service manual that covers the Twin Cam engines and is very enlightening.

If your pipes are loud, you may not hear or get any warning. The oil pump passages can clog up without making any noise whatsoever except when the engine starts tearing itself to pieces.

The scary thing is every Twin-Cam engine has the potential to have the cam chain follower issue, even the new models. Check things out before this happens to you. If it has a cam chains, it has the potential problem.

It is our intent to make you aware that pre ’06 Dyna’s and the 1999 to 2006 Twin-Cam Harley-Davidson engines have possible, serious issues and they can mess up. How? In the most severe cases, as the spring loaded cam chain follower fails it shreds plastic material that fouls the rotary gear oil pump cutting off oil flow to the engine that can cause sudden catastrophic engine failure and destruction. Also, metal to metal contact in these shoes produces metal filings to disperse into the oil prior to being filtered by the oil filter. If this happens be prepared (worst case) to buy a completely new motor as rebuilding the engine may not be feasible. This is not a likely situation, but a realistic possibility

OK, now that we have ruffled everybody’s feathers, how can we combat this? S&S has truly been visionary in solving this issue. They had the foresight to develop a gear drive system to combat this very issue. It is my opinion, that all Twin Cam engines should have this conversion done, so you can rest easy on your higher mileage TC engines. The gear drive replacement is an excellent and the only true bulletproof solution.

Getting Ready to Ride

Ron — Sun, 10 Mar 2013 17:18:38 +0000

With the beginning of the 2015 motorcycle season just a few weeks away, it is now time to focus on your motorcycle(s) and get it prepared for upcoming year.

Give the bike a thorough visual inspection checking for such thing as rodent nests and the like. Those furry critters love to get into such places as under seats and inside exhaust pipes, any place with an opening.

Check your tires for cracks or bubbles, older tires should be looked at for dry-rot. Adjust tire pressure and check tread wear. Riding on slick and sandy roads are made that much worse when riding on poor tires.

Make sure all electrical connections are intact and unchewed, and make sure the battery is charged.

Check all fluid levels to insure that they are up to recommended levels, this includes transmission fluids and primary fluids also as well as brake fluid. Get fresh gasoline into the tank as soon as possible.

Check all gaskets for leaking, older bikes that are exposed to extreme temperature changes are more apt to have dried out gaskets that will begin to leak at some point.

Check for any loose bolts, nuts or screws and tighten if necessary to the manufacturer’s recommended torque specs. Make sure all cables are lubed and in good working order as well as all safety equipment such as lights and horns.

One of the things that is forgotten the most is to put this years’ registration sticker on your license plate as motorcycle registrations in Massachusetts run from December to December which means you will have a new sticker every time you re-register. I have a habit of leaving my new sticker and registration on the counter for months sometimes. In Massachusetts you must also have any registered motorcycle inspected at a state sanctioned inspection station by no later than May 31. Massachusetts has (and will be) become more stringent in what passes inspection, so be aware that the louder your bikes is or if you are missing such things as reflectors, fenders or mirrors, you will have a difficult time getting a sticker.

If you do hit the road soon, keep an eye out for potholes and frost heaves, this winter has been brutally cold and there are a lot more road hazards out there this year than last. If you need professional service or upgrade work done on your American V-Twin motorcycle, Boyd Cycles offer high quality service as well as upgrades. Remember that this is the time of year our shop start to get busy so I would suggest you book your service work now to avoid the rush. Boyd Cycles can be reached at (978) 587-2570

cams upgrade

Ron — Tue, 05 Mar 2013 00:30:13 +0000

Hybrid Upgrade

A Cure for the Harley Primary Auto Adjuster Blues

Ron — Thu, 28 Feb 2013 13:15:50 +0000

Do you know anyone who has experienced catastrophic bearing failure inside the primary chain case of their 2007 or up Harley Davidson? Maybe they lost a clutch, transmission, or even engine crankcase bearing? Well I do. In fact this has happened to virtually everyone I know who owns a 30,000 mile or up HD built within these years. This has become an extremely common problem as of late, but fortunately there is also a very inexpensive fix as well. Before I get into that however, it seems important to first define the problem; for in truth it is a rather simple one. There is a cure for the Harley primary auto adjuster blues.

In 2006, Harley-Davidson engineers designed a primary chain auto-adjuster. This auto-adjuster was installed that year on Dyna’s, and starting in 2007 on the rest of the v-twin fleet.Now in theory, the auto adjuster is a step forward. Like its predecessor, the auto adjuster consists of a nylon shoe that applies pressure to the primary chain to keep it reasonably taught. In order to take up the slack as the chain stretches, a ratcheting system was developed that ratchets up the adjuster shoe as needed. Sounds good in theory, but there is a problem.

Anyone who has ever ridden a shovel or older Harley, those with a chain drive to the rear tire, knows that chains do not stretch evenly. As our rear chain wore, we would frequently have sections of the chain that were unduly slack, while other sections that were way too tight. Additionally, chains will also change tension as they heat up. Well, the primary chain is no different.

With that in mind, picture a loose section of the primary chain in which the auto adjuster ratchets up to take up the slack. Now introduce the tight section of the primary chain, but the auto adjuster cannot loosen up. This is where the problem lies. The design of the Harley-Davidson primary chain auto adjuster only allows it to tighten the primary chain as it ratchets up to take the excess slack from the primary chain. This design cannot loosen up, it can only get tighter.

You can imagine how this plays out. Not only does your primary sound like a freight train is roaring through your primary case, but the undue pressure on your primary drive chain is notorious for causing transmission bearing failure, as well as crankcase bearing failure, and even transmission spline destruction. In short, the auto adjuster will cause premature wear on your beloved Harley-Davidson’s primary drive system.

The M6 Primary Chain Tensioner makes a smoother ride by reducing annoying vibration, by keeping constant and correct tension at all times. Your transmission will ‘click’ into gear instead of ‘clunk’. It also improves shifting performance while extending the life of your primary chain. You’ll swear you just rebuilt your clutch and transmission.

When I researched the problems associated with the auto adjuster, I found only a very few alternatives. The Hayden M6 was the product that had been out there the longest, and had the most positive comments about it on the internet. Enough trial and error, I decided to go with what has been working for 25 years. I chose the Hayden M6 BT07.

Hayden Enterprises states, “The M6 automatically adjusts the primary chain on Big Twin Harley-Davidsons from 1965 to present. Now you can have the proper chain tension during acceleration and deceleration with the benefit of smoother shifting and less vibration. Riding with an M6 installed, your transmission will ‘click’ into gear instead of ‘clunk’. You will swear you just rebuilt your clutch and transmission. Reliable and practically maintenance free, the M6 delivers a noticeably smoother ride.” I have to concur!

If you could do only one modification to improve the performance and durability of your twin cam Harley-Davidson, I would highly recommend that you look into the Hayden M6 BT07.Boyd Cycles has them in stock and ready to go. You too will be so impressed by the overall quiet and smoothness of your primary drive system, you might just think you rebuilt the transmission.

Like to share a E-mail

Ron — Wed, 27 Feb 2013 19:16:38 +0000

Ron,

Thanks so much for the consciensous (sp?) work and diligence on my 1998 Harley Dyna Low rider that I picked up last night (Tuesday).

It runs great, has never run like this before. My wife and I went out for a ride last night, my wife even noticed the difference, and,..

the carburator cough is gone! A lot smoother, much more power. It probably took a while for all the damage that the bearing failure a year and a half or so ago to come to full fruition.

So, thanks again, appreciate the fine work and the diligence. It was well worth it!

John Mroszczyk

Harleys Horse Power

Ron — Mon, 25 Feb 2013 01:09:27 +0000

Tech Tip – Torque or Horsepower?

The bigger the cubic inches the more power your engine is going to have. For example a 103 cubic inch engine will create more power than a 96 cubic inch motor. Thus giving you more throttle to accelerate from the stop light or pass that annoying car on the highway. An engine is just like an air pump, the bigger the displacement the more pumping power. A V-Twin will also run smoother and experience better fuel economy once the airflow is opened up from a basic stage-1 kit (Exhaust, Air-Cleaner, Power Commander).

Frequently we’ll hear riders talk about how much horsepower their motorcycle makes. These claims are sometimes unbelievable. We’ll also hear some riders state that they prefer more torque over horsepower. Harley-Davidson performance means different things to different riders. To some, it’s just about getting a little extra power and better sound from their Harley. Others want to produce 100HP or more.

Most Harley riders will feel the greatest benefits with torque gains in the low to mid rpm range. When you talk about Harley-Davidson performance, do you mean torque, horsepower or both?
• Torque is pulling power. It’s this power that gets you moving and pushes you back in the saddle.
• Horsepower is the higher-end spinning power that keeps you moving and generates top-end speed.

For most Harley-Davidson riders, it makes little sense to try to increase engine performance in the 4,000 to 6,000 rpm range, when most of your riding occurs between 2,000 to 4,000 rpm, especially when doing may negatively affect your torque output.

You can get good low to mid-range performance out of your Harley-Davidson engine without a ton of modifications. If you’re looking for better performance, the first question you need to ask is; “Torque or Horsepower?”

Here are some number that your stock Harley…

Harley-Davidson Twin Cam (1450cc / 88” 45 degree single plug v-twin with F.I.) – 62hp & 77 ft lbs of torque

Harley-Davidson Twin Cam (1584cc / 96” 45 degree single plug v-twin with F.I.) – 66hp & 82 ft lbs of torque

Harley-Davidson Twin Cam (1688cc / 103” 45 degree single plug v-twin with F.I.) – 83hp & 95 ft lbs of torque

Harley-Davidson Twin Cam (1800cc / 110” 45 degree single plug v-twin with F.I.) – 95hp & 110 ft lbs of torque