Special travel memories engraved on a medal: Rio de Janeiro, Comporta, Capri, New York.. For each destination, Par Coeur creates an original design hand-drawn in colored enamel. There are more than 30 destinations on the site, or you can customise your own.

What trip have you had to cancel this year? I was meant to be in Pondicherry, India. Instead, I am now home with Zojora. You, too, can be in India with their beautiful tableware. The fabrics are sourced in Rajasthan (remember this interview back in 2012?) and most pieces are handmade ethically in Vietnam with the social enterprise Fair trade Fashion.

The pillows made in Gorée Island, Senegal by CSAO. They’re sold all over the world if you cannot make it to their beautiful store in Le Marais, Paris. Note to self: there are a number of beautiful lodges that have opened in Senegal recently and I must tell you about them.

Artful posters reminiscent of glamorous hotel rooms by Hotel Magique.

This very chic water bottle and holder by Lutz Morris handmade in Germany, with an insulated bottle by Lurch made of double-walled stainless steel. The logo engraving is hand-done in Berlin and can be customised. So chic.

An online workshop with Tabara from La Basketry who teaches how to weave the prettiest handwoven items such as the ones she sells in her online shop, with techniques learnt from her ancestors’ Senegal.

Or for a bigger splash, a sculptural basket weaved with natural elephant grass in Ghana by fair trade company Baba Tree.

Luxurious jewelry pieces from Pippa Small collaboration with the non-profit Turquoise Mountain in Afghanistan. The foundation provides employment for young artisans and creates a craft market for their work, as well as an extraordinary restoration project of historic old Kabul. Anything from the collection would be real treat.

If you have an artist in the family – with no commitment to be anywhere specific in the world – why not suggest to take an artist’s residency at Blue Apple Beach in Cartagena, Colombia.

Beautiful linens embroidered with love by Kisany. For more than fifteen years, Kisany has offered training and work in DR Congo and Rwanda to build an economy of skilled and financially independent artisans in these regions. The result is two partner ateliers and more than 1300 lives transformed.

Do you know anyone ready to tackle a 1,000 pieces jigsaw puzzle? I wish I could raise my hand but I do not have the required patience! Too bad because the Moon and the Earth puzzles by Four Point are so special.

A donation in the name of a loved one to African Parks, a leading non-profit that takes direct responsibility for the rehabilitation and long-term management of protected areas in Africa,. They do so in partnership with governments and local communities. I find their collaborative approach very inspiring and witnessed it first hand when we traveled around Malawi.

How about commissioning a piece from artist Lisa Swerling, inspired by her Land of Giants collection. Her Glass Cathedral pieces are designed to immortalize amazing adventures by creating a memory box from a personal photograph or recollection. I have been following her work ever since we connected over her family road trip in Southern Africa. Very special.

And if you miss Paris as much as I do, this list of French movies is a keeper – you just need a nice glass of Burgundy and a few dark chocolates to go with it.

Ps: This soulful gift ideas to satisfy a wanderlust list is not an ad, nor sponsored in any way. Just some ideas that I have written down because they are all made with love and beautiful design in mind.

With a vaccine on the cards and the lifting of travel ban for a number of countries, there are beautiful places that you can travel to if you dream of a winter getaway. It’s about navigating the how + the where . Perhaps there has never been a more important time to use the knowledge, time and patience of a private travel designer.

Just sayin’ .  Ps: this is a good read if you’re worried about flying.

CRETE WITHOUT THE CROWDS

Crete has a lot to offer: pretty beaches of course – some hidden in bays with sand or pebbles, others very long and sandy – but it also has ancient Greek and Roman sites, dramatic landscapes of cliffs and mountains, hiking trails in deep gorges, sleepy villages up steep roads, a fascinating history melting pot of Byzantine, Arabs, Greeks, Romans, Venetians with mosques, churches, synagogues… And grilled octopus. Lots of grilled octopus (lunch, dinner, repeat).  

Best hotels for sweet dreams

Crete has two airports – Heraklion’s the biggest, and Chania’s in the second largest city. Chania is to the West of the island and perhaps less congested as a city. It’s also renowned for its atmospheric harbour and historical center full of little cobble stone streets.

We spent a week at Metohi Kindelis near Chania, and couldn’t have hoped for better hospitality in these difficult times. The residence has been in the Kindelis family for over 100 years, yet it was built in the 16th century when the Venetians where in Crete. Today, it’s a large organic farm, one of the largest avocado producers on the island, and it provides 3 separate cottages each with its own private pool and access. It’s the Greek answer to the wonderful Italian concept of agro-tourism, executed with perfect attention to details by Danai, a very stylish, soft spoken, always smiling Cretan woman who grew up in Metohi Kindelis and speaks Spanish, English and French very fluently. 

We stayed in Danae cottage which was just right for a family of five – if you don’t mind all the children sleeping on the sofas. They loved the daily visit of the resident cats, running barefoot in the grass and even enjoyed (not loved!) doing homework under the canopy by the pool.

We had long leisurely breakfast prepared with everything that Danai brought us daily, thick Greek yoghurt but also the most delicious honey, all sorts of cheese, and fruit salads made fresh with the produce of the farm. Metohi Kindelis is not the most obvious choice for families as it’s not a serviced hotel, it’s in a location that some will find a little off, and the steep staircases might not be for young children, but if you appreciate the simple beauty of authentic surroundings, then you’ll love it as much as we did. This is most definitely the Crete without the crowds.

Otherwise, Ammos is also a very nice hotel option, especially for families with young children. Beautifully decorated by a local Cretan man with exquisite taste and a passion for chairs (hence a renowned collection!), it’s colourful, by the water, easy going and gets booked a long time in advance.

For pure luxury, Domes Zeen Chania is a completely different proposition, with a gigantic and magnificent pool and bedrooms and suites with interiors that mix modernity with raw materials quite effortlessly. It’s now part of the Marriott Group of hotels which I was surprised to discover as it feels very independent and stylish.

I have many more addresses up my sleeve so get in touch and I can book one of those with some of my sweet benefits.

SEA SAND SUN

Everyone comes for the beach, so let’s start talking about that. What a surprise to swim in a relatively warm sea late October! The long chairs were still out on many beaches, but all to ourselves. Download the app Cretan Beaches for free if you want the full travel intel. Here’s a summary of our outings:

For a full day out:

Head to Falassarna, preferably to one of the small bays to the right of the main beach if you want to be secluded, or head to the heart of the long beach if you wish to rent surf boards, body boards etc. If you stay until late in the day, you can drive to the village of Sfinari 15minutes away and see the sunset from one of the fish tavernas on the beautiful, rocky beach. And if you make it on time for lunch, Captain Nicolas is your taverna! feet in the sand, grilled sardines on the table, it doesn’t get much Creter than that:)

A day at Elafonissi Beach – it’s one of the most famous on the island, for its pink sand, though its also very crowded in high season, so it’s best to head there late in the day for the sunset when everything turns pink. If the beach is too crowded, the sweet Danai advised us to drive 15 more minutes to the South, and go to Kedrodasos, a special landscape with juniper trees on the sand and shiny rocks to lie on and sunbathe.

If you like pebble beaches, Gialiskari in Paleochora and Ravdoucha close to Kolibri; also Agios Pavlos in Sfakia, an area with many beautiful pebble beaches – and the delicious restaurant that I mention below.

Beaches near Chania:

Marathi Beach is not far from the city of Chania, there are couple of tavernas on the beach and the waters are nice-the beach can be a little crowded but not on an October Monday. Then, near Marathi there are also Stavros and Kalathas both with tavernas.

All the beaches on the Akrotiri peninsula (near the airport) could be combined with a visit to the Monastery of Agia Triada and/or Gouverneto both Venetian monasteries where the monks produce their own olive oil, wine and soaps. A beautiful hike takes you down to Gouverneto Monastery, the scenic cave and continues till you reach the sea. You can easily combine this with the other beaches of the Akrotiri peninsula.

Stand Up Paddle and cycle boats are available to rent for a few hours of fun as the sea is very calm in those bays.

Another beach idea near Chania is in the opposite direction, towards Falassarna to the beach of Ravdoucha. It is a small beach with pebbles – not sand – and a taverna above.

LOCAL EATS

• Evgonia: It’s a delicious taverna conveniently located near Metohi Kindelis.
• Thalassino Ageri: for evening outdoor dinner of mostly fish dishes in a beautiful setting.
• Pyrofani: in Souda just outside Chania, for delicious fish almost feet in the sand.
• Kouzina EPe: an institution for easy fast and yummy food open from 12-6pm in the heart of Chania
• Pan e Vin: a delicious Italian restaurant to catch up on pizza and pasta but it hasn’t reopen since lockdown so do check first.
• Soulis: for a delicious dinner in the harbor, in a modern and stylish setting, easy with the children.
• Yannoulis ice cream made of traditional recipes with goat milk, you’ll find them in several spots.
• Kalitsounia: it’s a Cretan cheese herb pie to take away, a sort of empanadas, yummy.
• Bakery: there are many bakeries to recommend but the one of the Drandaki sisters seem to rate high consistently
• A must visit, out of the way, is Chez Kostas in the little sleepy village of Maza. This was possibly one of our favourite meal, a real homecoming treat on the terrace, super low key, as if invited to the house of a local family. The wife in the kitchen, the daughters helping Kostas for the service. And seating right in front of an incredible gem: a 700 years old church of Ayios Nikolaos. Stunning inside.
• In Sfakia on the Lybian sea: Livikon Taverna for the most delicious lunch by the sea with a huge covered terrace. Africa is 300km away but somehow I could feel it, see it far away in the horizon. Loved visiting this side of the island after our long hike in 

Useful glossary from my foodie Cretan friend Xanthie over at Taste Gurus

Souvlaki (or pita gyros)  – Some say the best souvlaki are the dirtiest in which case the star would be Oasis on Voloudakidon str 4, but some prefer a place with more options called “S’ anamena Karvouna” open until late (6am) 

Kronos pastry shop – The best loukoumades, if you don’t mind the sugar coma that will follow. They are little pieces of fried dough tossed in syrup and topped with cinnamon. They are crispy/crunchy on the outside, the syrup pools on the inside, so they explode with syrupy goodness in your mouth. 

Bougatsa Iordanis – This place is an institution. Bougatsa is something you can only get in Chania. It is flaky filo filled with fresh myzithra cheese. It comes hot out of the oven when you order it. They cut it into bite size pieces and put it on an aluminum plate and ask you if you want it sweet or salty. If salty, they give it to you plain; if sweet they sprinkle sugar. Open at 6am for early birds, close at 2pm.

WORTH GETTING IN THE CAR FOR:

The ancient site of Aptera 
Ancient Aptera is one of the most important city states of Crete during ancient times. It dominates the bay of Souda – and it just happens that the mother of Danai is an archeologist and was a key member of the team that uncovered Aptera over the years. The site is very interesting as it has been an active city from the 8th century BC up to the 4th AD in the Roman Times. Many centuries later a Venetian Monastery was built in the area. Then during the early Ottoman Occupation of the island a fortress overlooking the Souda bay was built in the outskirts of the Ancient city.

Hiking the Imbros gorge

It’s a deep and stunning gorge in the South of the island. Our little Lior who is 8 did it fine, with some complaints towards the end – it’s a total of 3 to 4hours (c. 7km) and a great alternative to the much trickier Samaria Gorge which requires a full day of hiking. You can hike it it on your own, preferably north to south as it;’s easier that way, though we really enjoyed the company of our guide Natalia who taught us a lot about the flora around us and they fascinating history of the island.

The Botanical Gardens would be a very pleasant visit on a hot day. We didn’t get to go. Also, Winery Dourakis produces a few delicious organic wines served in some of the best restaurants in town. We didn’t visit the winery but certainly tasted the wines.

A morning with ceramicist Manousos Chalkiadakis

Book ahead to visit the studio of Manousos Chalkiadakis . He is one of the most important Greek ceramicists and a visit provides for a very immersive excursion to his beautiful house and atelier in the traditional village of Paidochori. Manousos is very talented, soft spoken and gives ceramics classes to children and adults under the vine in his garden. You’re surrounded by cats and the most beautiful views all the way to the sea. His work has been exhibited in many galleries in Greece and abroad and it is really quite unique. If you get to see the inside of his house, it’s like stepping into a World of Interiors feature. Hmm…makes me think I might pitch it!

There are many direct flights from European cities to Crete but this is if you want more travel intel about Greece: Athens, staying for less than 24h with the kids or Patmos, my Greek island. 

Kalo Mina as they say in Greece, which means Happy month. Because we’re already the First of December and this means we are one month closer to 2021 when we all hope and wish and long for better (travel among other) NEWS!

xx Vanessa

These are the restrictions & protocols for travelling in Africa right now – at Oct 14th 2020. It’s a valuable set of information gathered by the organisation Wild Philanthropy, sourced from ATTA and individual country tourist boards. Wild Philanthropy have also set up a much-needed African Tourism Crisis Fund: designed to support the very lifeblood of African travel i.e. the local communities who make travelling to Africa such a special experience.

Travelling in the continent also depends on the restrictions in your home country, which I can help you navigate. I am on hand to arrange that you get Covid-19 PCR tested in preparation for your return or onward flights. So if Africa is calling, let’s talk xx

ETHIOPIA

Ethiopia relaxed its travel restrictions 23rd September 2020. So long as protocol is followed, all international leisure travellers are exempt from having to quarantine.

PROTOCOL
1. All travellers must present a negative RT PCR test certificate for COVID-19 before boarding a flight. The test must be taken within 120 hours of arrival. It has to be a PCR – rapid diagnostic antibody tests will not be accepted.

2. Children less than or equal to 12 years of age are exempted from the RT PCR test certificate requirement.

3. Proof of a negative PCR test does not apply to travellers in transit. No quarantine is required if flight transit times are less then eight hours, though transit travellers are required to remain in the airport. For transits over eight hours, travellers will be put up in a designated transit hotel for the duration of their transfer time.

KENYA

Kenya opened to international travel from all destinations as of 1st August 2020. As long as protocol is followed, travellers arriving from low and medium risk countries are exempt from quarantine.

PROTOCOL
1. Travellers are required to complete a Travellers Health Surveillance Form before departing for Kenya.

2. They must also be in possession of a negative PCR Covid-19 test certificate obtained no later than 96 hours prior to departure from their home country.

3. All travellers are symptom screened on arrival and must follow infection prevention and containment regulations.

4. Travellers travelling from non-exempt countries will have to quarantine for 14 days at government designated facilities or at their place of residence.

MADAGASCAR

Madagascar‘s island of Nosy Be and surrounding archipelagos opened to international travel as of 1st October 2020. All travellers arriving at Fascene Airport will be exempt from quarantine. There is currently no travel to mainland Madagascar.

PROTOCOL
1. All arriving passengers are required to present a return air ticket and a negative result for a Covid-19 PCR test, taken within 72 hours of departure.

2. A letter of commitment must be signed by arriving passengers, acknowledging the Covid-related health measures in Madagascar.

3. All visitors must complete a health form and comply with all airport health procedures, including temperature scans and using the disinfected wayfinding corridor.

4. A PCR test is required to be taken within 72 hours prior to departure from Madagascar.

MALAWI

Malawi is open to international travel. So long as protocol is followed, travellers will not have to quarantine upon arrival.

PROTOCOL
1. Upon arrival, all travellers will be required to present a negative PCR test taken within 10 days of departure.

2. All travellers must fill in a health declaration form which includes information about where they are going and staying.

3. Travellers presenting negative tests are free to travel. However, they are required to self-monitor for symptoms for 14 days after arrival, observe current preventive measures in the country. and report to health authorities in their respective districts if they develop symptoms.

4. Departing travellers are required to present a negative PCR test taken within 10 days of departure.

NAMIBIA

Namibia opened to international travel as of 1st September 2020. All travellers arriving at Hosea Kutako International Airport in Windhoek will be exempt from quarantine.

PROTOCOL
1. Travellers are required to have informed their country’s Namibian embassy or equivalent diplomatic mission of their travel plans 14 days in advance, supplying a copy of their itinerary.

2. Travellers are required to complete a health questionnaire prior to departure.

3. Currently, travellers are required to arrive with a negative SARS-COV-2 PCR test that is no older than seven days and was issued by a certified laboratory in the country of issue.

4. Upon arrival, travellers will have to submit a synopsis of their trip with contact numbers, and provide a signed health declaration form.

5. As far as we know, travellers must still make themselves available on day five of their trip to take a test, and contactable on day 7 to receive the result of the test. If the test comes back positive, they will be quarantined at government designated facilities. If negative, they will continue with their trip.

PRINCIPE

São Tomé and Principe opened its borders to international travel 16 July 2020. As long as protocol is followed, all travellers are exempt from quarantine.

PROTOCOL
1. All travellers are required to have proof of a negative Coronavirus test taken in the 72 hours prior to their arrival.

2. Upon arrival, travellers will be symptom screened. Symptomatic travellers will undergo rapid testing.

RWANDA

Rwanda opened up to commercial international flights 1st August 2020. All travellers must quarantine for 24 hours upon arrival.

PROTOCOL
1. All arrivals must present a negative Covid-19 PCR test result taken within 120 hours of departure. It must be a PCR. Other tests are not accepted.

2. Prior to arrival, travellers must complete a Passenger Locator Form, which includes uploading their PCR test. Upon submission, all travellers are issued a Unique Health Code, to be presented on arrival.

3. Upon arrival, travellers are tested and must quarantine for 24 hours at a government designated hotel while awaiting its results.

4. Having tested negative in both tests, all travellers irrespective of country of origin are free to travel.

SEYCHELLES

Seychelles reopened for commercial flights from 1st August 2020, allowing travel from permitted low and medium risk Category 1 countries. As of 1st October 2020, travellers from Category 2 countries are allowed to visit under specific Special Status restrictions. The lists for both categories are regularly reviewed.

PROTOCOL
1. Accommodation for all travellers can only be booked at certified establishments.

2. All travellers must apply for a Health Travel Authorisation form 72 hours before the day of their day of departure to Seychelles.

3. All travellers from Category 1 countries must present a negative Covid-PCR test taken within 72 hours of departure. All travellers from Category 2 countries must present a negative Covid-PCR test taken within 48 hours of departure.

4. Upon arrival, all travellers must comply with health checks. Travellers displaying symptoms will be isolated and may be tested.

5. Travellers from Category 2 countries must stay for a minimum of 5 days in a designated establishment, where they will be tested on the fifth day. If they test negative, they may continue with their trip. If positive, they will be required to stay in a designated stay-safe hotel until cleared by the Public Health Authority.

6. Travellers from neither Category 1 nor Category 2 countries may transit through the country as long as they do not leave the airport.

7. Travellers from high-risk countries entering via a Category 1 country will need to have spent 14 days or more in that Category 1 country in order to to enter Seychelles.

SOUTH AFRICA

South Africa opened its borders to international travel from select countries 1st October 2020. Leisure travellers from high risk countries may not enter. As long as protocol is followed, all other travellers arriving at one of three international airports – OR Tambo, King Shaka and Cape Town – will be exempt from quarantine. Travellers from high risk countries are permitted to transit via South Africa.

PROTOCOL
1. All travellers will be required to fill in a health declaration form before disembarking.

2. All travellers – including those in transit – are required to arrive with a negative PCR test taken within 72 hours of departure. Travellers from high-risk countries entering via low-risk countries will need to have spent10 days or more in that low-risk country in order to qualify as exempt from quarantine.

3. Upon arrival, all travellers will be screened and those showing symptoms will be quarantined until they test negative for Covid-19.

4. All travellers will be asked to download the government’s contact and alert app.

TANZANIA

Tanzania opened its borders to international travel 18th May 2020. Travellers are not required to quarantine.

PROTOCOL
1. Upon arrival, all travellers from countries and / or using airlines that require it will be asked to show their a negative PCR test result.

2. Those travellers from countries and / or using airlines that don’t require a negative PCR test result will not be asked to show it upon arrival. However, the advice is if you have one, carry it.

3. Travellers will be screened and may be tested if displaying symptoms.

UGANDA

Uganda opened its borders to international travel 1st October. As long as protocol is followed, all travellers are exempt from quarantine.

PROTOCOL
1. Upon arrival, all travellers must present a negative Covid-19 PCR test taken within 72 hours of departure.

2. According to Entebbe Airport operating procedures, all travellers will be symptom screened on arrival. Symptomatic travellers will be quarantined and tested at Entebbe Referral Hospital. Test results will take between 24 and 48 hours. Travellers testing positive will be further quarantined or medically evacuated at their own cost.

3. Tour operators are instructed to ensure that their travellers proceed directly to their place of stay.

4. At the moment, all travellers departing Uganda are required to present a negative PCR test taken within 120 hours of departure. There are a number of local test centres to support the requirement.

5. Travellers returning to countries that do not require evidence of a negative PCR test require special clearance from those countries in order to board their plane.

ZAMBIA

Zambia is open to international travel. As long as protocol is followed, all travellers are exempt from quarantine.

PROTOCOL
1. According to airport guidelines, all travellers will fill out a Traveller Health Questionnaire prior to disembarking from their plane.

2. Upon arrival, all travellers must present a negative PCR test taken within 14 days of departure. If travellers arrive without one, they will be refused entry.

3. All travellers will be symptom screened. Those with temperatures equal to or above 38C will be tested. If exhibiting a cluster of symptoms, they will be quarantined to await the outcome of their test.

4. Travellers must adhere to the country’s infection mitigation and control procedures, monitor themselves for 14 days maximum following arrival, and report any symptoms during this time to the nearest health facility.

ZIMBABWE

Zimbabwe opened to international travel as of 1st October 2020. Restrictions are being gradually relaxed. As long as protocol is followed, all international travellers are now exempt from quarantine.

PROTOCOL
1. All arrivals must present a negative Covid-19 PCR test result taken within 48 hours of departures.

2. Upon arrival, all travellers will be subject to symptom screening. Travellers exhibiting symptoms will be tested. Tests are available at the airport with a two-hour turn around.

Backtrack to a year ago when I launched a new business, BozAround Private Travel, a new website BozAround.com, along with The Generous Traveler, the philanthropic travel platform that I created in 2018.

It all started beautifully, with an exciting flow of trips that I designed for many diverse and curious families. Peru and the Galapagos for 2 families traveling together. A 40th birthday celebration in Puglia. A road trip in California. Adventures in the jungles of Belize. Celebrating the Olympics in Japan with the kids. Chilling out in Ile de Ré. And so many more. But all this was soon followed by a mad flow of cancellations and postponements.

I worked incessantly to get every single one of my clients reimbursed or rescheduled. I attended countless webinars and virtual workshops to deepen my knowledge of the business of travel while the children were homeschooled. And I don’t feel sorry for myself in the very least. Yes, travel is at a standstill, but I have hope. We must all hang on to hope. Just like there was a before and after Sept 11th, there will be a before and after 2020.

We will travel less but more meaningfully. We will seek adventures with a purpose and not in the mere pursuit of immediate reward. Exciting trends are already emerging. Glampervan roadtrips, wilderness seeking, isolation vacation and ultra-flexibility are the new buzzwords.

That’s why, against all odds, I am happy to formally introduce to you today BozAround Private Travel, family travel with style and purpose.

So, until we can all travel with confidence again, I will feed your wanderlust with stories and visuals that will take your mind away from the current gloom. Follow me on instagram for regular inspirations from near and far, share this post with whomever might need some colourful musings, and please spread the word on my new venture BozAround Private Travel. Because when the world gets back on its feet, I’ll be ready for you.

Until then, please stay positive and healthy, and don’t forget your mask.

Curiously yours, always.
x Vanessa

Ps: shout out to Yvette at Lemonade Design for revamping BozAround.com with talent and dedication.

MAKE

64 artists from around the world (including Lisa Congdon and Famille Summerbelle, whose work I love) have contributed to a colouring book around the theme of HOPE. Donate what you can starting at €10. All proceeds go to the World Health Organization Coronavirus Response Fund. The PDF Printable is available to buy on The House That Lars Built.

Also, this easy tutorial to design Mexican hearts with the dropbox instructions here will transport you to Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s times.

LISTEN

Have you seen this big list of podcasts for little kids from the NYT? And these audiobooks are all about Africa. They are available for free download at the moment on Audible: Stories from Africa | Monkey Madness | The White Giraffe | Good Morning Gorillas | My life with Chimpanzees | Meet a baby elephant | Animal Stories | Bug and Insect Jokes  | Riley Mae and the Sole Fire safari | Counting Safari Adventure | Trivia for Smart Kids.

DANCE

Get your groove back with these 20 uplifting songs from around the world.

WATCH

We love these family movies with stories set around the world:

– A bigger world (set in Mongolia) – 10+ a French movie shown at the last Venice biennale
– The story of the Weeping Camel (Mongolia) – PG
– Cinema paradiso (Italy) – a heartwarming story, 13+
– Il Postino  (Italy) – stunningly shot in the Aeolian islands,  14+
– Children of heaven (Iran) – an Academy award nominee back in 1999
– Queen of Katwe (Uganda) – one of my daughter Amalya’s favorite 10+
– Whale Rider (NZ / Maori culture) – 10+
– Poorna  (Himalayas) – 10+ – youngest ever girl to climb Mount Everest
– Forrest Gump (around the US) – a classic which we revisited recently, 14+
– The last emperor (China) – A Bertolucci classic, 13+ but 3h long!
– Moulin Rouge Musical (France) – I still haven’t seen it! 13+
– 400 Blows (France) – we just watched it again, a masterpiece, 10+
– Cleopatra (Egypt) – but it’s almost 4h long?!
– Monkey Kingdom (Sri Lanka) – a Disney documentary
– The Climb (Nepal): A heart-warming French movie for the whole family
– 7 years in Tibet (Tibet) – 8+ and Brad Pitt super young as bonus!
– Out of Africa (Kenya) – as beautiful as always
– Greystoke Tarzan (Africa) – haven’t seen it in  along time put putting it here
– Crocodile Dundee (Australia) – 13+ funny but very 1980’s unPC
– Totoro (Japan) and any Miyazaki, really – PG timeless Japanese animated movie

Also, take the family on a real-time safari with these live African game drive and also these twice daily, three-hour long live game drives.

READ

You might find inspiration in 30 Good Books for Kids with Wanderlust, which I wrote last year. The following are worth adding. I am not adding any url as I am hoping that your local bookshop will still be able to take orders over the phone or by email in these difficult times, so you can support them.

• Migration by Mike Unwin & Jenni Desmond (animal migrations around the world) (8 yo)
• Tiger Wars by Steve Backshall (Tibet, India and the Himalayas) (10 yo)
•  Blown Away by Rob Biddulph (5 yo)
• The Land of Neverendings by Kate Saunders (8 yo)
• Ottoline and the Yellow Cat by Chris Riddell
• The Cat Who Wanted To Go Home by Jill Tomlinson (8 yo)
• The Highway Rat by Julia Donaldson & Axel Scheffler (4 yo)
• The Mummy’s Gold by Kristina Stephenson (7 yo)

EAT

Bookmark this if, like me, you’ve been wondering where to start your new bread making journey . I am still looking for a baguette-at-home tutorial:)

And nurture yourself with this Immune Booster smoothie recipe taken from the menu of the Six Senses hotels:
200g (2 cups) spinach, 120g (1 whole) banana, 245g (1 cup) frozen pineapple, 1 knob fresh ginger, peeled (about 2 inches ginger), 1 knob turmeric root (about 2 inches turmeric), scrubbed well – substitute ½ tsp powder if root not available , 1/8 teaspoon black peppercorn (a pinch), 150ml (1/2 cup) unsweetened plant milk (e.g., coconut, pumpkin seed). Optional super boosters: 1 tsp of any of ashwaganda powder or astragalus powder, or moringa powder. And ½ Tbsp of raw honey for sweetness if needed. All ingredients in a blender, served chilled. Et voilà.

THINK

I’ll finish with these wise words from philosopher Alain de Botton:

“The world will be ours to roam in once more. But during our collective confinements, aside from the obvious inconveniences, we might come to cherish some of what is granted to us when we lose our customary liberties. It cannot be a coincidence that many of the world’s greatest thinkers have spent unusual amounts of time alone in their rooms. Silence gives us an opportunity to appreciate a great deal of what we generally see without properly noticing, and to understand what we have felt but not yet adequately processed. 

We have at present not only been locked away; we have also been granted the privilege of being able to travel around a range of unfamiliar, sometimes daunting but essentially wondrous inner continents.“

Vanessa xx

Ps: An at-home travel guide was first published on my friends’ blog over at Babyccino!

Pss: You can also find some of my #armchairtravel on instagram where I am currently featuring a series titled La Vie en Rose, with sensorial souvenirs from around the world.

A Tunis, en Tunisie, le 22 mars. Le pays est confiné et sous couvre-feu. FETHI BELAID : AFP

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Dans le centre de Birmingham, en Angleterre, le 21 mars. JUSTIN TALLIS : AFP

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Dans le centre-ville d’Athènes, en Grèce, le 23 mars. LOUISA GOULIAMAKI : AFP

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Dans le centre-ville de Los Angeles aux Etats-Unis, le 22 mars. APU GOMES : AFP

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Dans le marché du quartier de Medina à Dakar, Sénégal, le 22 mars. Le marché a été totalement désinfecté afin de lutter contre l’épidémie. JOHN WESSELS : AFP

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Dans les rues de Kigali, au Rwanda, le 22 mars. SIMON WOHLFAHRT : AFP

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Des policiers dans une rue déserte de Buenos Aires, en Argentine, le 23 mars. NATACHA PISARENKO: AP

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L’aéroport désert de Changi, à Singapour, le 23 mars. EDGAR SU : REUTERS

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La place de l’Etoile (Sahet Al-Nejme) à Beyrouth, au Liban, le 21 mars. AFP

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La rue de Rivoli, à Paris, le 22 mars. BENOIT TESSIER : REUTERS

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La rue Nusiceva à Belgrade, en Serbie, le 22 mars, durant le couvre-feu. MARKO DJURICA : REUTERS

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Le marché de Chatuchak à Bangkok, en Thaïlande, fermé dans le cadre de mesures de confinement, le 22 mars. CHALINEE THIRASUPA : REUTERS

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Les rues vides de Ramallah en Cisjordanie, le 23 mars. ABBAS MOMANI : AFP

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Routes désertes durant le couvre-feu à Ahmedabad, en Inde, le 22 mars. AMIT DAV : REUTERS

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Un wagon de métro à New York, aux Etats-Unis, le 23 mars. ANGELA WEISS : AFP

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Une gare routière déserte à Alger, en Algérie, le 22 mars. RAMZI BOUDINA : REUTERS

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Une rue du centre de Santiago, au Chili, le 22 mars. MARTIN BERNETTI : AFP

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Wall Street à New York, Etats-Unis, le 21 mars. John Minchillo : AP

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From New York to Bangkok, this is what megalopolis look like in this crisis: a visual journey in an empty world. I have inserted the names of the cities and photographer’s credits if you hover over each image. it’s taken from an article in the French newspaper Le Monde dated March 23rd 2020 (Le Monde means the world).

I see ghost cities in these images, but the absence of noise, smells, crowds and pollution leaves me with positive emotions.

Dixit Lenoard Cohen: There is a crack in everything, that’s how the light gets in.

Stay safe
x vanessa

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You know the street artist Banksy, right? Did you know that he has a hotel in Bethlehem, Palestine? It’s called the Walled Off Hotel and generates lots of controversy, as you’d expect.  But whichever side of the wall you are on, Banksy can be praised for using art and hospitality as a vehicle for communication (mediation?). If you stay at the Walled Off, you could find yourself literally sleeping inside a work of art, and not just works of his. There are  graffiti workshops regularly organised, and the hotel welcomes visitors from both sides of the wall for a cup of tea.

Gotta love the hotel’s pitch: Why open a hotel there? What’s wrong with Shoreditch?

This place is the centre of the universe – every time God comes to earth it seems to happen near here. The architecture and landscape are stunning, the food delicious and the current situation remarkable and touching. This is a place of immense spiritual and political significance – and very good falafel. We guarantee you won’t be disappointed. * (not actually legally enforceable).

I just finished planning an itinerary in Israel for a mother and her 12-year old son. In lieu of a lavish bar mitzvah, she had the wonderful idea of taking him to Jerusalem for a few days. Exploring the history of this incredible city but also venturing out in the surroundings. An excellent way to engage with an inquisitive teenager. The Power of Travel. 

We get another opportunity to view wildlife in Liwonde National Park, also managed by African Parks. Arriving at Mvuu Camp by boat, we soon understand that what it lacks in style and intimacy, it makes up in warmth and authenticity.

The location is outstanding and I cannot keep track of the hippos playing hide and seek in front of our cottage.  I almost shout of excitement when a mother elephant starts swimming across the river with her baby.

I want to run towards them to take a few shots, but I remember that we spotted a crocodile right there hiding in the grass, when we were on a boat safari earlier in the day.

Tom, our guide, is a self-taught walking encyclopedia. I wish I could record all the fun facts that he shares. On our last day at Mvuu, we go on a walking safari, accompanied by Tom again and a discreet ranger from African Parks. We stumble upon a buffalo in the distance. Tom gestures at us with a very serious face, indicating that we must change direction. And everyone bends under the foliage, ushering and smiling of excitement at the adventure that we are living.

We stumble upon a buffalo in the distance. Tom gestures at us with a very serious face, indicating that we must change direction. And everyone bends under the foliage, ushering and smiling of excitement at the adventure that we are living.

Taking the road again, we stop at another community-based organization called CISER, operating on the shores of Lake Malawi. The founder takes us on a tour that leaves us in awe of the efforts accomplished to keep local children out of trouble by giving them access to education.

We finally make it to Pumulani on the shores of Lake Malawi, for our last two nights in the country. I am absorbed by the many encounters that we have made during this journey: eye contacts with countless children smiling at us, jokes shared with the guides who looked after us with warmth and pride.

I am overwhelmed with emotion, thinking of all the places in the world that never make it in the news.

I close my eyes by the pool, reliving all those tiny moments from our trip, and two Chinese teenagers emerge from nowhere, a boombox in hand playing the song My Way in Chinese, right there in the warm heart of Africa. I cry and I smile. It’s been a memorable journey in so many ways.

Traveling west from Majete, we head to the densely populated Zomba Plateau, an area seldom visited by tourists. We have come to experience village life. The Responsible Safari Company (RSC) has eco-tourism at heart and works in close collaboration with a few community-based organizations along a model that Kate, the founder, likes to describe as #tradenotaid.

Yodep is RSC’s partner in the Zomba plateau. In return for feeding and hosting the two of us for the night, Joseph, who works at Yodep, and his young wife Fanny will receive US$80 incorporated into the cost of our itinerary, while RSC gets a small fee.

This specialised travel agency started the initiative 18 months ago and tells me it doesn’t go without massive challenges, from selecting the right partners to making sure that travelers will look beyond the lack of comfort.

Indeed, Joseph’s home has no running water, the electricity is out during most of our stay and the toilets outside are intimidating. But that doesn’t deter us from enjoying the warm exchange with our hosts. Joseph explains how permaculture has improved the output of his small allotment. He walks us through the mechanism of the village bank that we attend together. We seat on the floor and participate with 10 women who use the village bank scheme to lend money to each other’s.

The evening comes slowly. I help Fanny prepare dinner on the burning stove, a basic meal of maize flour mixed with warm water and some stir-friend greens.

This is the staple meal in Malawi, everyday for lunch and dinner, with a few tiny dried fish added to the mixture on a good day.

We wake up at dawn to help Joseph plant mustard seeds in his small garden, the soil is dry and doesn’t seem very fertile, but what do I really know about planting seeds. We go fetch water at the wells, carrying two buckets each that we bring back clumsily.

And it’s time to say good-bye, with mixed feelings that we would like to do so much more to help, but knowing that life goes on for them, and for us.  These twenty hours are some of the most humbling I’ve ever had.

Malawi is not world-known for safari, but African Parks, a non-profit conservation organization, is helping change the narrative. They apply business approach to conserving African wildlife and wild areas. They do so by collaborating tightly with the local communities and the governments. Their track record is impressive. Majete National Park is an inspiring turnaround story.

Just thirteen years ago, it was depleted of any wildlife. Poaching of rhinos and elephants was a curse. Not a single tourist dollar was flowing into the area. African Parks took over in 2003 with a long-term lease. More than 2,500 wild animals have been re-introduced including black rhinos, and elephants that now thrive in the reserve.

Today, Majete is a true Big Five park, although the bush is so dense that we can hardly see more than the elephants, and hundreds of beautiful antilopes. Employment in the area has also risen more than ten-fold since 2003, with research centers opening and a few lodges attracting more and more tourists every year.

Our base for the night is the incredibly remote Mkulumadzi Lodge. We reach it by crossing on foot a little suspended bridge, a metaphor for our time here, all isolated, left to pause and observe. At night, from our enormous room looking over the river, we spot the shiny eyes of at least ten crocodiles staring in our direction, less than 30m away from our balcony. I finally fall asleep peacefully to the sound of mama hippo. This place is pure bliss. We are almost alone and Mother Nature has rarely felt so powerful. 

Stanley, our warm Malawian guide who has been working with Robin Pope Safaris across Africa, takes us on an early morning safari the next day, delighting us with endless tales of wildlife regeneration. 

I take pride in finding the first group of elephants at the end of the safari, just when we thought we would leave without seeing any.

The journey from London takes us via Johannesburg. It is rather long but landing in Blantyre, the economic capital of Malawi, feels familiar. I am reminded of Hararé 20 years ago, with dirt roads in the middle of the city and people walking everywhere. Malawi is a small country in size, mostly known as one of the poorest in the world, with a population that has tripled to 20 million over the last 20 years. It is squeezed between Tanzania to the North, Zambia to the West and Mozambique to the East. 

The hike

We make our way to base camp as soon as we land, eager to kick-start the discovery of the country from the top of the Mulanje plateau. I have read about the hike before leaving home, and I am a little nervous. The next day is arduous, so you must get a good sleep, says Anton, our mountain guide for the next 2 days. He sets to find us some hiking sticks, prettily carved by the locals and we adjust to the slow pace of Africa.

The sound of the waterfalls echoes by the veranda of our cottage. The hike is steep and hard indeed, but although I have not done any particular training, I am relieved to make it to the top in five hours, one step at a time.

The total elevation is 1,200m and sometimes we crawl on rocky paths, sometimes we hold hands to give each other’s balance. Anton’ smile and good spirits are contagious and I barely notice the time passing, chitchatting the whole hike up.

He tells me about his youngest son’s dream to become a pilot, I tell him about my little brother’s determination to fly A320s. And just when I ask the dreaded question ‘are we almost there’, he delights me with a little riddle which sends my mind back into positive territory: what does KISS stand for? Keep It Short and Simple. Thank you for the story-telling advice. I smile back.

The warm heart of Africa

France’s cottage, set in the middle of the plateau, is our base for the night, a simple little house in the middle of the plateau. English writer Van Der Post stayed here in the 1940’s when he went on a tragic expedition with forester Freddie France who died while crossing one of the rivers. Van Der Post’s fame came with his book Venture to the Interior, set right here in Mount Mulanje.

The cottage is basic but the logs burn out nicely in the fireplace. We rest our legs in contemplation of the changing colors in the sky, while Anton and our porters prepare a tasty meal on the open fire. We are in the warm heart of Africa, far far away and very content. This trip is off to a good start.

On our way back down, we come across several barefoot children collecting bushels to resell in town. They do that climb up every week, and sell a bushel for 500 kwacha, which is about 0.50p. This is what deforestation looks like. Ordinary, poor people scramble to live in Malawi, without any electricity or running water, so when they get hungry, they chop, they have no choice.

Thirty years ago, the plateau was covered with Mulanje cedar trees. Then the population doubled, tripled, and the helicopters came, chopping them all. Fires ravaged the area and today, almost 40% of those cedar trees have disappeared. The government has replaced them with Western-type pine trees. It is terribly sad to witness but over 95% of the population in Malawi still uses charcoal burning and until renewable energies are widely accessible, the quest for survival will prevail. It’s as simple as that.

Focusing on the positive

My brief to Dominic, who runs the Responsible Safari Company, was to put together an itinerary that would highlight the positive stories taking place in Malawi. And there are many. Our next stop is Satemwa Tea Plantation, where Annette greets us with a smile and an enormous brownie. She is a charming, tall, blonde lady. I can’t help wanting to know her story. She smiles and shares a condensed version of it. It sounds straight out of a romantic comedy. Originally from Lapland, Annette went on a solo motorcycle trip in her early twenties, from Cape Town to Morocco, and met her now-husband in Mozambique. He was on a similarly epic journey.

We arrive sweaty and dirty, and settle in our large room with a colonial four-poster bed, as if we were part of the family. The serene Huntingdon House was the family home of Annette’s Scottish in-laws until not long ago. Her father-in-law came to Malawi in the early 1920’s – like many Scottish settlers before him – and started the tea plantation.

Tea-plantation with a purpose

We listen to Annette’s explanations about the benefits derived from fair-trade, effectively empowering the tea-pickers to decide how to spend the funds released every year from the scheme.

In the last couple of years, those fair-trade funds have gone to purchase malaria-prevention medicine for the community, install a new rooftop for the local school and solar panels in the village.

In the early evening, we head to the tea factory for a tasting of twenty different varieties produced on the estate. It is fascinating how such contrasting flavors can be achieved with the exact same leaves processed in different ways.

My legs are still aching from the hike when I get on a mountain bike the next day to tour the plantation. It is one of the largest in the country.

We find a sweet spot to plant three seeds of mahogany trees, for each of our three children. It’s a small gesture in honor of all the trees that have been chopped before us. Annette encourages me to see them grow on Google Earth back home – Oh, the world we live in…

I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list. I am not a fan of large, group-owned, cookie-cutter hotels in general, but when they’re by the sea, I have a physical reaction to them. This blog post is another list of secret places: sweet little family-run hotels in hard-to-reach corners of the Mediterranean. Many on them are located on islands that you’ve perhaps never heard of before ( I hadn’t until I found some of them).

Little-Green-Bay-HC

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Mediterreano – HC

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Signum – HC

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Skinoppi – HC

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Bergerie Kronos and Marguerite – HC

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Denizkizi – HC

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Little-Green-Bay—HC

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losenamoradosibiza – HC

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Mediterreano – HC

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Sikelia-HC

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Starting in the South of Italy

I wrote about Cas’almare on the tiny island of Favignana when it had just opened in 2010. I wouldn’t mind hiding there for a few days right now. Pantelleria is another island where I’ve always dreamt to go – I just tried to book a long week-end there but you really need longer than that. Did you see the movie A Bigger Splash with Tilda Swinton and Ralph Fiennes? It was filmed right here . But if we didn’t rent a villa, I’d want to stay at this beauty called Sikelia. Ps: did you know that Pantelleria is the closest point of Italy to Africa (very near Tunisia actually).

In the Aeolians, north of Sicily, I long to return to Hotel Signum. We stayed there many moons ago with Ceki, using our first salaries to travel from Napoli to Salinas, Panarea and Stromboli by ferry. I remember vividly the delicious breakfasts at Signum, the scent of jasmine from our little terrace. It was pure bliss. I am told it hasn’t changed much, apart from the addition of a pool and a few bedrooms. 

Moving to Greece

There is a little island called Kastellorizo in Greece which I had never heard of until recently. It is very close to the Turkish coast. The little hotel Mediterraneo is run by a fashionable French woman who lives there most of the year. The ambience seems just perfect.

For an off-the-grid inland experience on Tinos, Bergerie Krokos & Marguerite are dreamy, with probably not a sound other than the cicadas. Or how about renting the whole of Skinopi on Milos with a group of friends. One day I’ll do that. A promise is a promise.

Croatia or Turkey? Both.

I have only been to Croatia once, to the beautiful town of Rovinj, for the wedding of a dear friend. It was like stepping back in time, with service still influenced by years of communism. Things have changed and Croatia is now a hotspot in the Mediterranean sea. When I go again, I will book Little Green Bay on the island of Hvar. It looks just perfect.

You know my love of Turkey. I have written about Istanbul and Capaddocia before. We often stay near Cesme when we go in the summer months, but I crave to discover the Southern parts of the country, especially around Kekova and the sunken city. We would enjoy the simplicity and hospitality of Deniz Kizi.

Spain

I rarely (never) stay in a nice hotel on my own for pleasure (who does!?!) but I did just that (!) two summers ago. A one night stand with me myself and I. And I loved every moment of it. I booked myself at Los Enamorados, surrounded by lovers (no kids allowed) – as its name suggests. I know I’m supposed to talk about family travel on this blog but hell yeah it was so good.

Ok.. if I really must take the children (!!), I’ll go back to Etosoto in a heartbeat. It’s on Formentera, a ferry hop from Ibiza. Its ethos and design blend in just perfectly with the incredible waters in front of it.

Have you heard of the sweet fisherman village called Cadaques, 2h north of Barcelona? Dali – who lived nearby with his wife Gaïa – called it the most beautiful village in the world. Btw – if I had another daughter, I would call her Gaïa *_*. Last time I was in Cadaques – a long time ago – we went camping. It was pre-children, pre-Ceki (another life!). Today, I would stay at Villa Gala, right in the village.

And France

France has it share of beautiful spots on the coast, whether it’s on the busy Cote d’Azur (Riviera) or towards Toulon, Marseille and Montpellier. I’ll do an entire post about France one day but meantime, I’ll just mention Plein Large. I met the owner Julie on a retreat earlier this year and loved hearing how she and her parents have been running this wonderful little hotel on the beach of Bandol for almost 50 years.

And one last for the list: Hotel Misincu in the North of Corsica, literally called Cap Corse. I mean, seriously? Oh la la. Take me there now.

It feels good to know there are still many family-owned hotels and it’s our duty, as travelers, to preserve them and give them our business. Just as we ought to support our local bookshops, no? 

Photo credits from left to right starting with top left: Etosoto, Hotel Misincu, Hotel Plein Large, Villa Gala, Bergerie Krokos & Marguerite, Hotel Signum, Skinopi, Little Green Bay, Los Enarmorados Ibiza, Villa Gala, Mediterraneo Kastelorizo, Cas’almar

This blog post is a list of kids summer camps that I have bookmarked over the years, researched, tried and tested or highly recommended by friends. I want to spend as much time as possible with the children over the summer months, but I also know that camp experiences are incredibly formative.

I have fond (and less fond!) memories of all the school holidays where my mother sent me to camps, mostly in England to learn English. It must have had an impact on me since I now have a travel blog where I write in English.

Camps about technology:

The Tech Camp in the English countryside: tried and tested twice by Marcelo when he was 11 and 12. Hosted on a real school campus in the summer months. Very geeky: build a drone, 3-D printing… A good extension to the day camps organised by FunTech.

The Astro Camp focused on star gazing for 9-13 years old in Michigan, USA for any child interested in space and technology.

If your children speak French and have an interest in aviation, Jonathan Club is the summer camp where my (little but not so little!) brother developed his passion for flying. He’s now a pilot, so they must do something right.

Nesin Mathematics Village is actually about maths, as you can guess. A friend sent me the link recently because Marcelo loves maths and Ceki is Turkish but other than that, I don’t know anything about it. Worth taking a look if you have a math wizard at home.

Camps about nature:

First Hand Experience, in the pretty countryside of Kent 1h outside London. Tried and tested by Amalya last summer. Super sweet, vegan food, foraging in the nearby woods, yoga in the morning. A perfect first camp experience.

Camp Wilderness: a bit of a similar concept with more locations around the UK, more dates, and a bigger age range. Not vegan, not sugar free! (think marshmallows on the firepit).

If you happen to be in Bali this summer (?!), the Green School – which I wrote about 9 years ago in Milk Magazine – organizes wonderful day camps for all ages. The full program here.

Camps about cultural exchanges:

CISV: it originated in the UK and has a long history built on cultural exchanges all over the world, including a two-way family exchange program for 12-15 years old.

Seeds of Peace is a very reputable camp in the USA, designed to encourage teenagers to think differently in resolving conflits in the world. Thought-provoking, with a challenging application process.

The classic (North) American summer camps:

Wanakita is a favorite in our family. The children went twice already. I wrote about it here, in the wild of Ontario, Canada.

Gold Arrow in California is another one tried and tested by friends: easy, classic and keeping children busy and happy.

This article about the 19 Best institution summer camps in the US. I am not sure these are are the kind of camps I would choose, some feel a bit too ‘high end’ to my taste, but they all have an excellent reputation.

Camps about creative arts:

I’ve heard so many good things about Beam, a camp that fosters creativity in New Hampshire, USA.

Surf camps:

I have a long list of surf camp ideas simply because Marcelo loves surfing. Most of those are in France, because if he went, he could practise his French while doing something that he likes. But none have been tried yet. These ones are sponsored by Quicksilver. This one looks so chilled and sporty near Biarritz in France. This one is more for day camps, on the shores of Devon in the UK, ranked one of the ten best surf schools in the world by The Guardian last year.

Adventure camps:

Timbertop program at Geelong in Australia is a bit off-topic but so interesting. It combines Academic and Outdoor Education and the students camp for between 50 and 55 nights during the year, with a strong focus in hiking.

The Exploration Society in the UK organises amazing programs mostly on the water (sailing, canoeing..), some for the whole family.

The British Exploring Society, which I wrote about earlier in the year. It’s geared towards 14+ years old and for the more adventurous types.

Want to share some other camp ideas in the comment box below? I’d love to add to this list xx

These are some of the books and magazines that I am currently daydreaming with.

A new travel magazine

YOLO is a new magazine out of New York, conceived and published by Yolanda Edwards. She was the creative director of Conde Nast Traveler until it closed down (sadly) a few months ago. We knew she’d be on to pretty things in her new life.

Yolanda once said in an interview “I am a huge fan of BozAround since I’m pretty obsessed with travel, and I love how Vanessa weaves in so much of her personality“. I am still pinching myself.

#printisnotdead

A new travel book

The two founders of Fathom Away have published a very well documented book about destinations + inspiration. It’s full of addresses you want to bookmark, structured around themes like Giving Back and Going Off-Grid. One to keep.

A new art book

The image below, by photographer Ulrik Hasemann, is from a book titled Coastland . It’s brought a smile to my face all week long since I cam across it. I’d love to get my hands on a copy of the book: a photographic journey along the coasts of Denmark.

A new book about crafts

Thirteen years ago, when I moved from New York to bring our little business of childrens trade shows called Bubble to London, I met Tabara N’Diaye, freshly out of university and out of the Eurostar. She helped me launch the shows and grow them, and she went onto many other adventures after that.

I am so proud and happy to see her publish her first book about Baskets, inspired by her latest venture La Basketry. It’s an hommage to the ancient Senegalese traditions of craft making and basket weaving, with easy tutorials and inspiring images. Bravo Tabara xx

And on my bedside table, I also have: a pillow lavender spray, some CBD oil (recently discovered – from California!), some cream for cuticles, 100 love sonnets by Pablo Neruda and the memoir Educated by Tara Westaver, which I just finished reading and can’t stop thinking about.

What about you? Any new book that will take us near and far away?

This last post is a bit shorter simply because I haven’t had much time to write lately. It doesn’t reflect on how much we all loved Ojai! And the fun times we had in Malibu and Manhattan Beach, before flying back home.

2 nights in Ojai

This year has seen an unusual amount of rainfall in the Ojai valley. As a result, it’s never been so green and flowery according to the locals that we chat with. The scent of orange blossom follows us wherever we go, on the bike rides, for sunset cocktails at The Ojai Valley Inn & Spa and around the firepit at the cuter than cute Caravan Outpost. There is indeed a special energy in this valley, surrounded by pretty mountains 360 degrees.

Spring is a great time to visit, as I am told the summer brings unbearable heat. it was the perfect time of the year to stay there.

Sweet dreams

The Caravan Outpost is a cluster of airstreams neatly arranged around large communal tables and a welcoming firepit. Marshmallows are roasted every night by the attentive staff. This place is pure happiness. It’s tasteful, thoughtful and incredibly welcoming. The five of us would have been tight in one of the classic airstreams so it’s not a bad thing that I booked Julian by mistake, the only mobile-home in the camp. Julian is appointed with everything a family might need. It has a cute loft bed and a pull out sofa in the small living room, and a comfortable tiny bedroom for the parents. Just perfect. How fun it would be to rent the entire camp with a large group of friends.

Ojai Rancho Inn is closer to the center of town. Its a motel turned into a stylish and friendly little hotel. For those who prefer luxury, the Ojai Valley Inn is the place to be. However, I find it slightly bland when we visit for cocktails at sunset, maybe because we have stayed in so many atmospheric places during our road trip.

El Capitan is a good option if wanting to stay closer to Santa Barbara (on the North side, about 20′ drive). It’s been around for a long time, and was a pioneer in the concept of glamping. We don’t really make time for Santa Barbara, a pity probably as I hear it’s a fun little seaside town (and I would love a yummy lunch at La Super Rica, raved about by Julia Child).

Bon app

We’re a bit too far to try out La Super Rica so we head to Spencer Makenzie instead. It’s another self-proclaimed best taco in the world . The trip to Ventura is worth it, the burritos are to die for, the road through the hills of the Ojai Valley are so pretty. We don’t notice that Ventura is the porn capital of America … until some locals tell us so. And of course, we squeeze in a little trip to the local In N Out Burger on our way to the beach. Can’t come to America and not go to an In N Out Burger!

Bring back

I could bring back anything from In the Field located across the road from a gas station turned yoga studio (only in California!). The little shop at the Caravan Outpost is also full of treasures. The towns has lots of cute places. Summer Camp is another one on the list. The children spend a long time diving into books at the sweet Ojai bookshop, all outdoor in the center of town, so large that you could spend entire days there.

2 more nights in Los Angeles

Instead of going back to Venice Beach, we explore Malibu and Manhattan Beach on our return to LA.

After a delicious lunch with our friends at the legendary Geoffreys, we spend the afternoon on Zuma beach . The wind is strong and the water is freezing cold but at least we have the beach to ourselves. The children jump in the waves with their wetsuits, courtesy of Malibu Makos with whom we have booked a surf lesson. Malibu Seafood, Neptune’s Nest and Malibu Farm are other places high up on my list.

Manhattan Beach, south of Venice, gives us a good feel for what beach living feels like in LA. Everything revolves around main street and the volley ball pitches on the sand. The week-end vibe is so chilled you could forget you are in one of the craziest and busiest cities in the world.

We spend time at the Getty museum on our last day in LA, taking in the expansive views over the city. We have one last big American pancake, at Uncle Bill’s in Manhattan Beach. And we thank our friends for lending us their house with a big fat American washing machine. Oh, the simple pleasure of bringing back home 5 suitcases full of clean clothes after two weeks on the road.

Big Sur has been on my wanderlist for years. The name alone takes me away when I pronounce it (just like the words Zanzibar, Fiji or Shalimar..). I love the combination of Big, like everything is so Big in America, and Sur, with that Spanish accent. Our time in Big Sur has the biggest effect on me. I promise myself to come back one day, to live here and contemplate the ocean day after day. When the kids are all grown up maybe..

1 NIGHT IN SAN FRANCISCO

Sweet dreams

San Francisco deserves much more than a one night stand. But when you have only that, a room on the top floor of the Harbor Court hotel will do. The penthouse suite is perfect for a family, with magical views over the bridge. Other good choices include: the Phoenix Hotel – a hip alternative but it has no communicating rooms, and The Proper hotel, which was recently renovated. Ashley at Hither & Tither leaves an hour away from the city, and has lots of good posts on her blog.

Fun times

With a short amount of time in the city, and for a first time visit, i’d go to the essentials ie: get up early (to avoid the tourists) and hop on a tram going up and down the city. So much fun and a classic. Walk to one of the Saturday farmers market for breakfast, hop to the Embarcadero to see the seals (I am amazed that they haven’t moved since I first saw them as a teenager!). Visit the Alcatraz prison .. or watch Escape from Alcatraz with Clint Eastwood.

Bon appetit

San Francisco is known for its excellent restaurant scene, but you’d need quite a bit of time and patience to try a few. Angler is located next to the Harbor hotel and it’s a gem of a seafood place, rather upscale, with delicious cocktails. With more time, I would have have loved to feast on dim sums at Yank Sing. I like the farm-to-table ethos of Bi-Rite, with several locations of cafes, ice cream parlours and markets.

From San Francisco, we head straight to the Pacific Coast Highway. I am glad that we’re driving North to South. It allows us to be on the ocean side of the road, with the incredible views. Thanks for the tip Gwyneth:)

Passing Santa Cruz, we get a crash course in cutting and eating live abalone at a farm on the coast. We eat yummy fish tacos at Cemitas in Davenport, a sleepy and rather uninspiring beach town 1h30 before Monterrey.

I have one regret (I know .. should never have regrets .. non, rien de rien, je ne regrette rien). I really wanted to spend time in Point Reyes, north of San Francisco! Sleeping in one of the colourful cottages at Nick’s Cove , eating more fish tacos at The Siren Canteen , chilling on the beaches near Bolinas…

3 NIGHTS IN BIG SUR

We hit Carmel in the golden hour on our way South,. I love catching the pulse of this little town as families leave the beach, sand in their feet, queuing at the ice cream parlour. We’re real tourists but we blend in. We too know how to queue patiently for an ice cream. We shop for hoodies and other essentials, knowing that we won’t find much during our 3 days in Big Sur. Carmel is a cute little spot. It has made its name a long time ago by the movie stars and the moguls who play golf and hide away in the coastal mansions. Small town America meets chic retreat.

We take the road again, passing the bridge that I have seen on and on in the intro of Big Little Lies (cannot wait for Season 2 on Netflix!!).

I feel emotional being on the Pacific Coast Highway just then, with the sun falling quickly into the Pacific Ocean. It’s all quite surreal to have imagined a place in your mind so many times, to have seen it in movies, and to be right there. Wowza, that sunset is beyond words.

Sweet dreams

It was tricky to decide where to base ourselves in Big Sur, there are so many wonderful options.

Glen Oaks is chic glamping, with the option of pretty rooms as well cottages. The Tree Bones resort is another good choice to stay in the woods. Ventana is a larger resort with different options of accommodations. If you’re not sleeping there, at least go for a meal on the terrace overlooking the ocean.

If money is not part of the equation, and the kids stay at home (they’re not allowed!), then check into The Post Ranch Inn. I’d love rent the Wild Bird house one day for a family celebration. It is an architect house built for himself and his family, incredibly positioned at the tip of a cliff. But all in all, I would go back to Deetjenn’s in a heartbeat.

Deetjenn’s is an old-fashioned inn with timeless charm. It’s been owned by the same family since Helmuth and Helen Deetjen started welcoming guests in the 1930’s. A gem in the true sense of the word. No wifi, no phone reception, no TVs, no A/C, no keys to the door. And that’s exactly why everyone loves it and keeps coming back. We had two rooms (not connected) and it was a perfect set up, with sounds of the river flowing nearby.

Fun times

Hiking

Partington Cove and the Tanbark Trail take you to a wonderful little cove. It’s not too hard, you pass by a tunnel and end up in a rocky area. Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park is a very easy walk and has a photogenic waterfall. The Ewoldsen trail s a 6-mile loop under ancient redwood trees. Pfeiffer Beach is at the end of Sycamore canyon Road. You pay a small fee to enter. It’s a good idea to stop by Big Sur Bakery for a little picnic on the beach. Andrew Molera park is another good one. There are so many more that it’s good to go with the flow.

Whale Watching

We see so many wales on our tour with Monterrey Bay Whale Watch that we can’t keep track of the number. The marine biologist on board shares interesting stories but I somehow imagined that we would see the whole bodies of whales in the water (I know.. a whale can’t fly, right?!) so I leave slightly frustrated. The children love the experience and that’s what matters, right?!

Commune living

In another life, I will check into Esalen Hot Springs for a meditation course or all day massages and courses. They do have programs for families but I think it requires a whole different state of mind than the one we are in during this trip.

Bon appetit

Everyone recommends that we have a meal at Nepenthe, not as much for the food as for the view. Don’t ask me why, but we end up missing our table reservation – because of a basket ball match that we catch on the small TV of the Big Sur Deli. Arghhhh. I cringe and I almost cry, but c’est la vie. Nepenthe, well be back.

I find consolation in the large store next to Nepenthe where I finally buy myself a Pendleton blanket, something I have been dreaming of for a long time. I make vague attempts at visiting The Post Ranch Inn for cocktails or for an easy lunch, but I quickly udnerstand that children are not so welcome. We head to the majestic terrace of the Ventana Big Sur Hotel instead, and have the longest lunch with the children running around nearby. Perfect. We have a few meals at Deetjenn’s as the gigantic breakfast (people come from all over for bkfast at Deetjenn’s!) and the romantic dinner are incredibly good.

Leaving Big Sur, we stop on the coast to see the (very stinky!) 17,000 elephant seals near Hearst Castle (which we do not stop to visit because I figure that we have prettier castles and better art collections in Old Europe!). It makes for a good pitstop before heading further South to San Luis Obispo where the wildly wacko and tacky Madonna Inn expects us for the night.

1 NIGHT AT THE MADONNA INN, SAN LUIS OBISPO

Coming from the wide expanse and the overwhelming beauty of Big Sur, it’s a shock to the system to check into the Madonna Inn resort for the night. But we all love it! From the pink tennis court to the crazy restaurant decorated with Easter bunnies everywhere, to the wacky interiors of our very large room. I feel straight out of a set of the 1970’s Dallas TV series.

The children keep going back and forth between the basketball court and the swimming pool. I want to take a pictures of every thing around me. I am not sure whether to cry or to laugh at the elaborate decors, from the bedrooms to the cafe to the restaurant full of Easter everything. This place is quite something. No wonder it has attracted LA movie stars and bachelorette parties since 1958. Some come back over and over. I am glad we stayed here at least once in our life.

We book dinner in the world famous steakhouse of the Madonna Inn but feel too overwhelmed by the scene and decide to head to town. People queue for hours in front of Goshi, inside San Luis Obispo. We have pizza instead at Giuseppe’s. People say that SLO has the highest coefficient of happiness in the US, thanks to the barter trade mentality of the people who live here. There is definitely an easy vibe here.

The next day, on our way down to Santa Barbara, we pass by Solvang, an old Dutch community near Buelton, where tourists post in front of the old mills. We also stop for lunch at Anderson’s pea soup, a legend of a dinner that has been serving the same recipe of pea soup for almost 100 years. It’s like being in a movie again.

3 NIGHTS IN LOS ANGELES

What a cultural shock to arrive straight into the craze of Venice Beach after a long transatlantic flight. We check out the coolios playing basketball and the bodybuilders showing off by the boardwalk. Everything feels like déjà vu – the tall skinny palm trees, the big blue sky, the graffitis, the red corvettes – you can’t help feeling part of it all, like an actor stepping right into the role.

Passing by a cute shop selling 1970’s roller skates in candy colours, we miss getting caught into a fist fight between two junkies on the sidewalk, minutes after witnessing a man escaping a deli on his skateboard for a stolen beer. It’s such a circus that we forget about the jet lag on that very first afternoon.  Welcome to LA.

Our Airbnb is right behind Abbot Kinney Avenue, in the heart of Venice Beach. I learn about CBD while queuing for a matcha latte to keep me awake (US$6 + $4 for the CBD shot! With the £ exchange rate, Brexit feels even more like a punishment here). We queue again at night for an easy yummy vegan meal at the aptly named The Butchers Daughter, before stocking on provisions for the house at the most photogenic supermarket that I have ever seen.

I don’t know what to marvel more at in Erewhon supermarket: the aisles of beautifully displayed organic everything or the ultra cool crowd, cool in a very LA way. Stylish yogis, long beards and big smiles, moms carrying their babies on one hip, choosing fresh avocados with the other hand, a couple dressed head to toe in super chic black designer clothes .. and last but not least, a pretty young thing out of a kundalini yoga class, white turban and all, carrying her Goyard white bag on the shoulder. I am glad it’s not at the end of my street because I would be broke already.

Bon appetit

In Venice Beach and Santa Monica: breakfast at Gjusta (seat in or takeaway) right by the original Gold’s Gym, revered by bodybuilders around the world. Lunch at Gjelina on Abbot Kinney Rd (inventor of the Kale Craze! reserve ahead). The Butcher’s Daughter (prepare to queue). Cafe Gratitude for the best buddha bowls (several locations in LA). With more time, I would have reserved a table in the pretty garden of The Rose Cafe , or an Italian meal at Jones, an institution in Santa Monica.

Fun times

If you’ve been following me for a while, you’ll know my aversion to Disneyland and anything with the word resort. So I surprised myself when I bought full day tickets for Universal Studios ahead of our trip. I highly recommend to spend the extra $$ for the Universal express tickets allowing you to skip the lines for one ride each, because they can be humongous. I am glad I did, if only to hear my little Lior say ‘it was one of the best days of my life“.

Another highlight is the Lakers game we manage to get tickets for on the eve of our first day in town. I can barely keep my eyes open but the children are wide awake, pumped by two hot dogs each, and huge bowls of popcorns while being mesmerised by the whole show.

A cultured kid

We don’t make it to The Observatory because it is partly closed when we are in town, but I hear it’s a wonderful experience. With more time, I would have liked to venture downtown and check out the art scene: the Broad art gallery (with a great restaurant next door), across from MOCA (and the Disney Hall designed by Frank Gehry). Hauser & Wirth has an interesting space in an old factory. The LACMA has interesting kids art workshops. The Hammer is a private museum near UCLA with great collections. The Getty is a must in Brentwood, off Sunset Blvd, we get to spend half a day there on our return. The Huntington Library & Gardens in Pasadena is beautiful.

Sweet dreams

We’re very happy with our airbnb, it gives us the freedom of having a kitchen and lots of space for our jet lagged bodies. For hotels, I like the vibe of The Rose Hotel in Venice Beach. This place near Hollywood is nothing to rave about but gives you access to the ultra confidential Magician club, where one has to be a member to attend the legendary week end family brunch.

2 NIGHTS IN PALM SPRINGS: 1950’s DESERT LIVING

We step right into the 1950’s at Norma’s, the restaurant of The Parker Hotel designed by Jonathan Adler (good option to sleep but pricey). In the garden, a man in his late seventies is having lunch with his wife, white hair pulled back with lots of gel, huge gold glasses and a starched shirt. He must be a local. I can’t keep my eyes off him.

Sweet dreams

We spend the rest of the day splashing at the pool of the Ace Hotel. Family rooms are a bit tight for the five of us (ours is #504). Make sure to ask to be far away from the main pool to avoid the sound of the music at night. We make it work with the American king size bed, squeezing our little 6 year old in between. It’s so nice to still be able to do that.

Fun times

We’re up early the next morning to go hiking in the San Jacinto National Park. We get there before the crowd for the first 10am tramway aerial but in peak season, it’s best to buy tickets ahead. The weather forecast says 36 degrees fahrenheit so we go all equipped with lots of layers. The panorama of the desert in the distance and the snow under our feet is pure magic.

We love the ride up in the turning cable car. The hikes are well indicated at the top. The children stop every five minutes to walk on logs and splash in puddles. It’s good to come back down with the midday sun, fill our bellies in town and spend the rest of the afternoon splashing at the pool of the Ace Hotel.

I was slightly concerned that we would feel like the dull family surrounded by the dudes at The Ace. As it turns out, the dudes are a bit lonely by the pool with so many children jumping up and down in the water.

Olivia from the travel blog Nohzee embarks me on her convertible Ford Mustang to watch the sunset in the hills of Palm Springs. Love love love that little ride together: the amazing modernist houses North of Palm Springs. Leonardo Di Caprio’s Dinah Shore Estate by architect Donald Wexler (1964) on 432 West via Hermosa, right near Kirk Douglas Marilyn Monroe house at 1326 Rose Avenue. My favorite of all is the Kauffman house higher up on the hills with stunning views, by Richard Neutra at 470 West vista Chino.

That night, we catch a stand up comedy show at the bar of the Ace while the children watch a movie in the room. Easy peasy.

Bon appetit

Our favorite meals are at Tyler’s for burgers, seating on the little outdoor terrace. The portions are gigantic – of course! – and we’re sad not to be able to take doggie bags home. We’re told to have breakfast at Cheeki’s, so we do the next day. The menu is full of staple American dishes but the children tell me that the pancakes are nowhere as good as mine … smile. Lulu’s for California fares and Las Casuelas Terraza for Mexican food are both recommended by The Ace but not tried and tested..

The cultured kid

Too bad the excellent Palm Springs Art Museum is closed on Wednesday’s. We head to the Palm Springs Aviation Museum instead.

Mike, who still volunteers at the Museum at 90 years old, is originally from Norfolk UK and regals Marcelo with tales about the Spitfire. We learn a lot about the attack on Pearl Harbor. The children get to seat in the cockpit of a large military cargo aircrafts and spend as long as they want on the really cool flight simulator. A fascinating museum for the entire family.

1 NIGHT IN JOSHUA TREE: CACTI & COWBOYS

It doesn’t take very long to drive from Palm Springs to Joshua Tree, and many choose to do it as a day trip. There are three entrances in the park, the most popular one being at the North, called Joshua Tree. There is nowhere to sleep inside the park other than bringing a tent, and lots of food and water.

Bon appetit

We drive up to the little town of Landers, 1h away from Palm Springs, for a late lunch at La Copine. Everyone raves about the food there, so we patiently wait with a glass of wine while the children kick a ball on the parking lot. Modern farm-to-table dishes in a very simple setting and super friendly staff. The French in me can’t help being frustrated to see foie gras and haricots verts in the menu, so far away from home, but everything is truly delicious. Afterwards, the road goes up and down like a roller coaster all the way to Pioneertown.

Sweet dreams

Checking in at the Pioneertown Motel  is like stepping in a set from the 1950’s, when cowboy movies were being filmed here. We’re lucky that an indie rock band from LA is playing at Pappy and Harriet’s next door (Paul Mc Carney and Led Zeppelin have all performed here!). We pick up some pizza for the children at the Pie for the People, leave them in the room with a cowboy movie, and head for a beer and some music next door. Everything is so easy, we feel miles away from anything. Everyone’s on an alternative agenda at Pappy and Harriet’s. Beards have always been there. Tattoos too. It’s the real deal.

The next day, we drive through Joshua Tree National Park. We climb on boulders, take a million pictures of the beautiful cacti, stop at the many family trails and eat a picnic hiding between the rocks, the wind is blowing so strong. The landscape is stunning, I wanted to come here to witness it with my eyes. It’s bigger and brighter than I imagined. Wish we had planned an extra night not to feel rushed in the park.

With tons of dirt in our hair and pretty images in our head, we head back to Palm Springs for our flight up north to San Francisco.

More reading in these two interviews from a little while back on the blog:

Waanaki in Los Angeles

Kimmel Kids in Palm Springs

Oh, only in America, I feel like saying. But maybe there are more initiatives around the world like the Unclaimed Baggage Center in Scottsboro, Alabama?! It’s a 40,000sf store selling clothes, suitcases, surfboards, you name it, that they have purchased from the Lost & Found department of airlines, after the 90-days reunification period has expired and restitution has been paid. I am glad Wendy Perrin visited and reported about it as I found the whole story quite exciting:

It all started in 1970 when Doyle Owens bought a pick-up truckload of “unclaimed baggage” from Trailways Bus Lines in Washington, D.C., and brought it to Scottsboro for resale. Today, the store’s stock comes almost solely from the airlines. The Unclaimed Baggage Center buys the unlucky luggage sight unseen and hauls it to Alabama. The contents of each bag are triaged into 25 sub-categories: sell, donate, launder, trash, etc. They claim to have one million visitors a year. Talk about a profitable initiative.

In fact, it’s not too different from a thrift store, except that you might feel a tad shameful to put that little pink coat on miss when another little girl around the world misses it so dearly. Or maybe we’d have to draw the line at teddy bears and cuddly soft toys? Oh, and how about those wedding dresses on display? Were they truly forgotten in the plane or was it a missed act of some sort…

According to the U.S. Department of Transportation, fewer than three out of every 1,000 bags checked on domestic flights were lost in 2017. But the Unclaimed Baggage Center stocks 7,000 new items every day. Maybe someone is not saying the truth about numbers.

Meantime, here is the best piece of advice that I have read in order to minimise lost items when travelling.

By E. Belzer: I work at Newark Airport, running a Lost and Found Department for an international airline. Please everyone, put your name, phone number, and email address INSIDE EVERY BAG, be it checked luggage or a carry-on. Grab your business card, and write, “This bag belongs to” and throw it into an interior pocket. You’d be amazed how many times bags are tagless because the mechanical belts caught a bag and ripped everything off. Also: White-Out is forever. On the bottom and back side of your bag, write your first name and initials in White Out. Have your kids draw a character. Anything remarkable. Duct tape gets gooey over time and will come unstuck and clog the belts. White Out will differentiate your bag from everyone else’s. Forget about pink ribbons. They will not help us get your bag back to YOU. And, remember, airline counter agents are human and make mistakes. Be vigilant. Watch them when you check in. Make sure they print and affix a bag tag to your suitcase, and that they give you the receipt! If you are prone to losing this little slip of paper, snap a photo of it, and then stow it away in your wallet. It is your only proof that you checked in a piece of luggage, and you will need it if you need to file a claim.

Ahhh.. if only I had read this advice before forgetting my beloved Zucca coat in the Eurostar last month!

How Not To Lose Your Luggage in the First Place

* Make sure your name, mobile phone number, and email address are attached to the bag in a way that can’t get caught and removed in the machinery of the baggage systems.

* Put the same information on at least one piece of paper taped inside the bag too, so that it is the first thing someone will see when opened. Always put your name and mobile number on your kids’ carry-ons too, as well as on electronics and other valuables inside the carry-ons.

* If your luggage is the same color as everyone else’s, then affix something to your bag to differentiate it (white out!) so that other passengers don’t mistake your bag for theirs and run off with it.

* Use your smartphone to snap a quick photo of each bag you check. If the airline loses it, a picture of your bag will be worth a thousand words.

* Get to the baggage carousel before it starts disgorging bags. If you’re not there when your luggage comes out, it’s more likely to go astray.

And if you ever visit the store, the Unclaimed Baggage has a section on its website detailing the Things to Do in the area. Please let me know what treasures you’ll find.

It’s been 20 years since I’ve last set foot in Madrid. When you hold super dear memories of a place, it’s often hard to revisit it. As if that little corner in my heart – the Madrid of my twenties, when I was an exchange student – should not be altered by any grown-up judgement. On the other hand,  it’s a good feeling to find places as we remember them, in a world where everything is getting hipsterised. Madrid today is full of visual reminders of its old-school charm: 1950’s typos above old shop windows, dark-wood panels, grey-hair ladies dressed head to toe in black. This is a summary of 3 days in Madrid last December, no kids, two girlfriends chatting, giggling and hitting the pavement morning til late evenings. Lots of good food and great art.  Madrid is a perfect city & culture destination all year long. 

We arrive with a late flight and settle in the neighbourhood of Chueca. It used to be famous for its gay nightlife and a lively bar scene but has now turned into a chilled bohemian area, with artisan shops and cute little cafes. Some call it the Notting Hill of Madrid. We check in at the strangely called but wonderfully designed Only You Hotel. The only place still serving food late at night in the area is La Carmencita which, even if it was earlier in the day, I would still want to check out: organic iberico ham and croquetas shout at us Bienvenidas en Madrid.

Day One:

The breakfast at the hotel is appealing but we prefer to step out and start the day with the locals at Olivia te Cuida. Homemade pastries, prettily presented omelet, fruit salads and organic granolas. A communal table with fresh flowers, and a couple kissing in the corner, her wearing very high heels, ready for work, savouring a few last loving moments with him. I am already imagining the scenario of the next Almodovar movie.

Madrid is a very walkable city. Going through the neighbourhood of Las Salsas, we put on our sunglasses and head to the Reina Sofia museum, keen to see how I will react to Picasso’s Guernica twenty years later. It had marked me so much when I studied it in high school, in my Spanish classes. I didn’t remember the Reina Sofia so imposing, so large and so rich in art. A modern extension by architect Jean Nouvel was added in 2005. The courtyard must be a delight on a hot summer day, seating on a bench near all the Miro suspensions. The Guernica is a bit hidden away, on a high floor, as powerful as ever, depicting war scenes that were dramatic then and are still so relevant today. We then catch a romantic exhibition of 1950’s images of Barcelona by artist Francesc Catala-Roca.

Keen to recognise my old apartment on Plaza Puerta de Los Moros, we head to the old neighbourhood of La Latina, by foot, in the center of the city. We find ourselves at lunchtime (think 2pm+!) at Mercado San Miguel. This place is heaven! Tons of different food stalls serving the best of Spanish dishes, from tapas to marinated fish, grilled octopus, cod croquetas, sangria by the glass. It’s hard to choose. We find two stools at a counter, and go back and forth between the vendors to taste a bit of everything.

These are some favorite shops (Madrid is a treat in terms of quality & prices compared to other big cities). Big up for Madrid-based Malababa, which has a shop in London. Spanish fashion is having a moment in the last 10 years (no, I am not thinking Zara and Mango!). Fuen Carral street and Calle del Barquillo, with the shop Mott, are worth a stop. Of course also, the flagship store of everybody’s favorite Spanish fashion brand Masscob. The multi-brand concept store Pez hidden in a little pedestrian street in Chueca, not too far from another great restaurant Celso y Manolo.

A day in Madrid wouldn’t really be one without a stop at Chocolateria San Gines for chocolate con churros. Have you ever tasted those dough sticks rolled in sugar, that you then dip in an extra thick hot chocolate? So so good. Normally to be had around 6am when coming out of a club .. but when you’re no longer a student partying all night, having them for snack will do too.

We end the day with a dinner together with Madrilene friends at Verdejo Taverna Artesian, an easy going restaurant with a tasty menu and full of chatty locals until past Midnight (on a Monday night!), right in the old part of the city center.

Day Two:

Start the day again with a museum: we head to The Museo del Prado. It is turning 200 years old this year and when we visit late in 2018, some scaffoldings are still covering its beautiful façades. Inside, it’s as grand as ever. After making a selection of the masterpieces that we want to see (there are so many!), we follow our map diligently to stay focused and not get lost. I am mesmerised by the paintings but also the fascinating stories behind the painters: Goya, Rubens, Velazquez, El Greco..

For a drastic change of mood, we hop in a taxi for a late lunch at Sala de Despiece, in a converted butcher’s cutting room. They don’t take reservations, you eat on stools along a bar, and they don’t take too many clients at once, but it’s worth the wait. Experimental recipes, crazy presentations with very conventional Spanish ingredients.

We hop in the metro heading south to the working class neighbourhood of Lavapies, where we check out La Tabacalera. It’s a community-run exhibition space that has taken over an old tobacco factory. The choice of artists is eclectic. It gives us a chance to walk around this up and coming part of town. I want to head further south to Matadero in Legazpi, south of the river, in a former slaughterhouse, but we’re running out of time – and steam! With more time, we would also have checked out La Casa Encendida and Galeria Travesia Cuatro. Instead, we head to the rooftop of Mercado San Anton for an aperitivo, back in Chueca.

There’s no better way to finish our Madrid escapade than at Corral de la Moreria, a traditional flamenco tablao, the best in the city, I am told. Its restaurant was recently awarded a michelin star, so we are lucky to find a table last minute, and we are mesmerised by the performance of the artist that night, Eduardo Guerrero, a prodigy of the new flamenco scene. You heard it on BozAround first 🙂  This is a good source of information for flamenco happenings in the city.

down memory lane in La Latina, Madrid

Cappadocia’s landscapes are lunar-like. They also offer fun adventures for a family trip. It’s a straightforward destination: easy to reach, charming places to stay within all budgets, safe, very friendly locals. There’s much to do from cultural to physical activities, for all ages: visiting the mazes of underground cities, sleeping in cave rooms, flying high above the earth in a hot air balloon, hiking among fairy chimneys created by fascinating geological phenomenon.. Oh, and tasting the simple pleasures of Anatolian life, kind smiles, slow pace, donkeys and children in the streets of the villages, eating bread fresh out of the oven. Despite the bus loads of tourists (many from China since the region was featured in a Chinese soap opera..), one feels a million years away. Literally.

Our trip last October was over 3 nights & 4 days. We rented a car at the airport, and planned as we went along. Easy, peasy (with a Turkish husband, I must confess).

Itinerary

Day 1:

Arriving Chez Nazim in the early evening. The place was recommended by Helene of Cappadocia Ranch. She organises horse riding trips all year long in the ranch that she runs with her French husband Nicolas. Chez Nazim is a pension carved in the rocks on the outskirts of the village of Uchisar. Azim has the kind smile of a man who never seems stressed by life, yet works hard morning til evening to run his pension and sustain his family. His b&b is very rustic but we sense the warmth of his persona all around. We are greeted with a typical soup of vegetables and grains (çorbasi) heated on the stove and he then shows us a few rooms. It is as if we are the only guests for the night. The children choose a cave room where all five of us can stay, them sleeping together on a cozy mattress covered with a multitude of woollen blankets, literally inside the rock. Our mattress, on the other hand, must have seen its fair share of tourists. The authentic factor is at its peak.

DAY 2: 

– The excitement is high. We wake up at 5am to be picked up by Urgup Balloons. As we get on board, I can’t help notice how young our captain seems to be. He tells us he has more than 400 hours of flying so .. In Mehmet We Trust. We share the balloon with 15 other tourists, a mix from Japan, China, Russia and Koreans. Children are normally not accepted below 140cm, mostly because they can’t see below that height, but Urgup Balloons insists that Lior will still have a great time peeking through the little window, so we bring him along.

We are all mesmerised by the beauty of the journey in the air. The softness of the ride when going up and down without a noise, the sun rising slowly and turning the landscape in a palette ofpastel colors. It’s all romantic and so magic .. so much so that Chinese couples have made it a destination of choice to come get married. Yep!

Our guide Octay later tells me that there are 200 hot air balloons authorised to fly each day but the rides are often canceled due to strong winds so keep the children’s expectations low in case you would not be able to go. When we land back, Mehmet pops a bottle of sparkly drink for everyone. We all clap, get our diploma and take a group picture. However, the children and I cant’ help notice how the cork of the bottle flies up in the air and no-one from the crew bothers collecting it from the ground. There are dozens of little plastic corks on the ground. The flip side of that magic moment…

We meet Octay back at the b&b for a late breakfast, and we all get in the car while he gives us some fun facts. He has lived in the region his entire life and is still fully in love with it. We visit the Unesco-protected Goreme National Park, the fortress of Uchisar where we climb up to the top. We also go to one of the underground cities closest to Goreme National park and eat kebabs for lunch, cooked on a wood fire inside clay pots. Delicious.

DAY 3: 

Nazim offers us a lift until one end of the Rose Valley, so we can hike it and call a taxi on the other end. It’s a 3h easy walk but we are happy to have sturdy shoes as it is slippery at times. Stunning views, the feeling of being all alone .. until we meet a group of English hikers who are not very happy by the noise that our children make. I vaguely apologise, sorry but not sorry to see how happy Marcelo, Amalya and Lior are to jump up and down the rocks. We find many caves and grottos and we climb into one of them: it has stunning frescos with pretty shades of pink washed over time.

Towards the end of the trail, a local women makes gözleme, a pancake often filled with cheese or honey. They’re so good, warmed up on the charcoal stove in front of us. We keep on buying more. For some reasons, her little spot reminds me of Arizona and the Grand Canyon, a bit of a Baghdad Cafe moment. Note to self, I need to watch that movie again.

The grand finale that day is a horse riding trip throughout the valley at sunset. It’s peaceful and lunar until we come across a hord of tourists on quads who are polluting the entire scene in every sense of the word. I almost cry.

DAY 4:

Doing our best not to offend Azim, we decide we need to move to a more comfortable place for our last night 1/ because all three children have caught a stomach bug and we need a fully functioning bathroom & 2/ because I want to see what it feels like to sleep in a fancy cave! We check ourselves into Yunak Evleri where we stayed 10 years ago, when I was pregnant of Amalya.

Too last minute to book a full eco-tour with Turkish Tour Organiser, Gülsah takes us around on a day trip off the beaten track. Her English is excellent (she moved to the region 6 years ago after a stint in Melbourne). With her husband, they have launched an agency focused on cultural tours, many getting you close to life in Cappadocia.

We start with a visit of the underground city of Derinkuyu. I suffer mildly from claustrophobia so I am reluctant at first to bend down and walk in the narrow passages that are sometimes 10m long, but the children persuade me to go. It’s fascinating to imagine how the hittites built those fully operating cities more than 4,000 years ago.

Gülsar then takes us to a typical Turkish cafe on the main square of Mustafapasa, a small town with an old madrasa (islamic school) converted into a university (to train flight attendants, of all subjects!). She explains that she often comes by herself in those Turkish cafes full of men and she listens to them gossips, talking about their wives, their neighbours. Lior gets a set of dominos on one of the shelves and the children teach Gülsar how to play. I sip a Salep, it’s a mildly sweet blend of milk and rosebud. All is well far from everything.

We have lunch at The Old Greek House, a place that has been in the same family for generations and has kept all its charm. We feast on lentil soup, mezze and more clay pot cooked dishes. It feels like being in a movie set.

Sleep tight:

There are many options of accommodation in the region:

• In the luxury space: my choice would be Argos, which overtakes a little hamlet and is located on the edge of a mountain, with magnificent open views and lots of antiques. There is also the relais & chateau Museum Hotel, but it seems a bit too lavish maybe.
• For places with style in the mid/up-market: Serinn House in Urgup came well recommended, as well as the stylish Sota Capadoccia and Aya Kapadokya. Yunak Evleri is where we stayed for our last night. It’s still well run, spotless and tasteful but the hotel has grown a bit too much over the years.
• There are plenty of modest pensions, a term to designate b&bs: Kilim Pension, Maze of Cappadocia and of course Chez Azim where we stayed.

Good to Know:

• There are two airports in Cappadocia but the one called Nevşehir is closer to all the interesting villages. It’s also possible travel by train from the large cities in Turkey but cost-wise, it’s not that attractive compared to the flights which are really economical. Of note: there are lots of daily flights from Istanbul (mostly depart from the airport on the Asian side of Istabvul, pay attention to times as traffic is notoriously tricky in Istanbul).
• Pay attention to the season, it gets very cold and snowy in the winter months, and very hot in July & August. Favorite times to visit are spring, April until early July, or September until November. We had wonderful temperatures and blue skies one day, and cold wind and rain the next…
• The food that we had was nothing to rave about. A pity when Turkish food can be so delicious. It’s best to stick to simple spots and have Pide (the equivalent of pizza in Turkey, easy with plain cheese for example). Snack wise, you’ll find fresh squeezed pomegranate and orange juices pretty much every where, and freshbread rolls with sesame seeds called limit.
• Hot air balloon: better to book in advance as it’s hugely popular to go hot air balloning in Cappadocia (and very pricey!). We must have been lucky as we booked our ride just as we arrived in the region. Some balloons are for 8 persons, some are for up to 15. Always go with a licensed agency.
• The friendly team at Turkish Tour Organizer will help you book a guide for the day, organize an afternoon in a village house to bake bread on hot stones, poetry classes, outdoor photography session, ecological learnings…
• Horseback riding with Moonlight Horseriding
• Book a car rental at the airport, or your hotel can have one delivered for you
• I wanted to continue onto the city of Konya, the birthplace of the great sufi philosopher Rumi. It’s only 3-4h drive from Cappadocia. However, the whirling dervish performances only take place on week ends, so we’re keeping it for another time. To be continued.

Turkey has had bad press over the last few years. The authoritarian president is still around, violating human rights and making many miserable, but it doesn’t take away the beauty of Istanbul and the incredible warmth of its people. I have visited the city more than 15 times over the last 20 years (that’s how long I have been with my Turkish husband!). I have seen Istanbul change visually, women covering themselves more and more, and crates popping up everywhere. But mostly, I have never stopped being mesmerised by the beauty of this city – like almost anyone who visits.

Spring is a perfect time to take the kids. Summer is a bit too hot. Autumn has magic light. Winter can have low grey skies. But no matter the season, the enormous ships cross the Bosphorus and the many tales of East meets West remain.

I have often written about Istanbul. I talked about my favorite hamam, a wonderful experience to share with a daughter (or a dad & son) or a BFF. I also talked about all the places where I like to shop, for delicious loukoum or beautiful rugs in the Grand Bazar. It’s always nice to save a day or two for a trip out on the Bosphorus by boat, or a an afternoon on one of the pretty Princes islands, traveling back in time. If you read French, I wrote a comprehensive city guide for Milk Decoration, talking mostly about the up and coming neighbourhood of Karaköy around the Museum of Modern Art. Below are some places that I advent mentioned before, from our recent stay in the city.

Art, words and photography

Orhan Pamuk is one of Turkey’s most famous writer internationally. His love for Istanbul can be felt vividly in the tiny museum that he opened a few years ago in Cihangir: The Museum of Innocence. It is a visual account of his novel of the same title. It looks like a precious little jewel box, entered through a narrow staircase in a street hidden away, up a hill. The journey to get there is half the fun and it won’t take you long to visit it but it’s worth it.

Ara Guler is another famous Turkish artist. He passed away at the end of last year, aged over 90 years old, but his black and white images of the city that he loved have a huge legacy. You’ll be reminded of his work each time you cross the Galata bridge, with all the fishermen chitchatting on the bridge and comparing their catch of the day. The small Ara Guler museum is supposed to be worth it but was closed when we were there. which I have not visited.

Crossing the Golden Horn by foot is legendary: sea gulls flying en masse over our heads, maddening crowds and the calls to prayer resonating over the city. Deep blue sky, a mix of old and new, the Galata tower in the background, modern constructions peaking out. Istanbul is a city of chaos and contradictions. It’s been said over and over.

I’ve always wanted to visit the Maiden Tower, called Kizkulesi, but there’s always been a reason not to. Last time, the winds were too strong, the waves too big to make the transfer by boat from the Asian side to this tiny island in the middle of the Bosphorus.

Legend has it that a Byzantine emperor heard a prophecy telling him that his beloved daughter would die at the age of 18 by a snake. So he decided to put her in this tower built on a rock on the Bosphorus isolated from the land, thus no snake could kill her. But she couldn’t escape from her destiny after all: a snake hidden in a fruit basket brought from the city bit the princess and killed her.

Fish or Kebab?!

In case you didn’t know, Turkish food is excellent and very under-rated! When in Istanbul, there are two meals that I will cross the entire city for:

1- Going for fish, and for the mezzes typically served in fish restaurants. Mezzes are like Spanish tapas i.e. small dishes meant to be shared early in the meal (a fish called Lüfer served raw is an incredible delicacy, only found in Istanbul during the autumn months). Some favorite fish restaurants:

Akin Balic, right under the Galata Bridge, on a sunny day you’ll seat outside or on the covered terrace. You’ll find it right after the fish market by the stairs of the bridge on the Galata tower side.

Kiyi is an institution in the neighbourhood of Tarabya. It’s quite far from the center and where you are likely to be based but you will not find a single tourist there. Seat in the room on the first floor, by the window with views over the bay. Chic locals only, quite pricey.

Iskele Arnavutkoy Lokantasi. Similar idea to the one above, rather chic local crowd yet a very informal setting, seating right by the water in a large room, in the neighbourhood of Arnavutkoy.

2 – Going for Turkish meatballs (says a flexible pescatarian! Yes!). And especially, ordering a dish of white bean salad and turkish meatballs, best served in the stylish restaurant Karaköy Lokantasi at lunch time, among the locals. Or Cukurcuma lokantasi, a little hole in the wall next to Alla Turca’s incredibly chic emporium. Or Sultanahmet Koftesi (beware, only go to the original one where people are queuing!) right near the Basilica Cistern, which you will no doubt visit.

Ps: Gazebo is another such restaurant where you will not find a tourist. In a chic setting, set in the residential neighbourhood of Arnavuytkoy, you go to indulge in a Turkish breakfast or for lunch and marvel at the view, especially on a warm day when the large windows open directly on the Bosphorus.

Next post: our little adventure in Capaddocia. stay tuned xx

Come, Come again!
Whatever you are…
Whether you are infidel,
Idolater or fireworshipper.
Whether you have broken your vow
Of repentance a hundred times
This is not the gate of despair,
This is the gate of hope.
Come, Come again…”

words that I like by the sufi poet Rumi who was born in Turkey

The British Exploring Society

The British Exploring Society (BES) has been taking young people to remote locations for nearly 100 years. Its mission is to empower 14-25 year olds, and equip them with courage, skills, resilience and determination. Those who apply need to make a personal commitment through fundraising and / or volunteering. It’s a powerful way to expose teenagers to self-discovery and sustainability in wilderness environments.

The expeditions are made of small groups of 10 explorers who strike out from a base camp and do wild camping in remote locations. BES is a charity-based organization and expedition leaders are all passionate volunteers . The teams do scientific field work (with Chief Scientists) and creative projects (with Media Leaders) while making a commitment to sustainability.

What an incredible list of alumni: Roald Dahl was only 17 when he ventured on; Marvin Rees, the first ever mayor of Afro-Caribbean descent of a European city went to Svalbard – like Alex Gregory, who became a 2x Gold Olympic medallist and 7x Guinness Record holder – and Shirin Gerami who after a BES expedition became Iran’s 1st female triathlete. All together, BES has taken 11,000 young people on expeditions since it was founded in 1932.

The Canadian Yukon – going since 1948

Starting out from Whitehorse in the Yukon, the teams climb peaks, trek, paddle, enjoy rich flora and fauna, track moose, elk and caribou, and camp beside the river bank for 3 to 5 weeks. If they’re lucky, they might even see the Northern Lights. I want to be 20 again!!

Indian Himalayas – going since 1988

High-altitude trekking, visiting isolated and unnamed peaks starting out from Ladakh with a basecamp in the Zara Valley. The explorers study and live for 5 weeks in an area rich in wild flower meadows and rare wildlife including snow leopards, Tibetan antelope and herds of yak. I want to be 20 again!!

Peruvian Amazon – going since 2002

They experience the biodiversity of the Amazon starting out near the Pacaya Samiria Reserve. The explorers might survey wild monkeys, birds, snakes, butterflies and a huge array of reptiles. The expedition also undertakes sustainable community projects working with the San Martin community. I want to be 20 again!!

Ps: I can’t wait for Marcelo (and Amalya and Lior!) to turn 16 and wave them good bye as they set off on one of those incredible adventures. Did I really say that?!

Ps: If you happen to be free and in London tomorrow, this event is quite exciting. 

I have been researching interesting holiday camp ideas for children and teenagers. Check out the tab Going Solo for regular updates. 

All photos courtesy of British Exploring Society

On the topic of artists in exile

First, a few words about Romas Viesulas: he would have been 100 years old this year, a centenary that he shares with his home country (the independence from the Russian empire was signed in February 1918). Romas Viesulas emigrated to the US as a refugee, forced to leave his homeland because of Soviet occupation after WW2. He had a successful career as an artist and university professor in Philadelphia but he always kept an emotional bond with his country, much like the many emigrants of his time – and of today.

Photo above courtesy of the Romas Viesulas estate

The celebrations ie. the country’s anniversary and the artist’ retrospective are a perfect excuse to visit Vilnius for a short break. The city is a gentle surprise with its mix of medieval and baroque architecture, dotted with churches and cafes at every corner. The cobbled stone streets are easy to navigate, by foot or by bicycle. There are several museums well worth a visit; they help shed a light on the complex history of Lithuania. On the culinary front, several young chefs are revisiting their Eastern European roots with exciting Nordic twists. Think marinated harengs and organic borscht. Healthy and colourful all at once. Miam.

Vilnius’ old town has been extensively renovated since being declared part of Unesco heritage in 2012. It feels safe, clean and welcoming. In addition, the 2h direct flight from London (with Ryanair, can’t have it all) and direct connections from many European cities make it an easy break with the children. 

VISIT VILNIUS

The retrospective of Romas Viesulas’ work is ending soon at the Vitautas Kasiulis Art Museum but you can catch it in Philadelphia until the end of the year, or learn more about his work here.

Other places of interest:

The self-declared “republic” of Uzupis (means “over the river”) was formed on 1st April 1997 with a president, foreign ministry and even a constitution. It is perched on the fringes of the old town, and while it is becoming a bit of a hipsters hangout, it is still home to hole-in-the-wall pubs and unique art installations. It’s well worth exploring, and stopping for lunch on a sunny day in one of the pubs by the river.

Vilnius University Bell Tower: great view of Old City rooftops.

The Gates of Dawn, where Christian iconography (even the Mother Mary is depicted) is juxtaposed with pagan symbols of sun and moon.

Church of St Anne: passing through on his way to Moscow, Napoleon said he wanted to put this gothic gem into his pocket to take it home with him (St Francis Church next door is austere but grand).

Church Heritage Museum: across the street from St Anne, small but splendid

The Frank Zappa monument for those who are fan

The Muses: statue by Stanislovas Kuzma at the National Drama Theatre in Gedemino Prospektas.

Vilnius Gaon Museum: on a more sombre historical note, excellent complement to a walking tour of the vanished Jewish ghetto.

SLEEP

The Pacai Hotel, open since last summer, is a stylish and conscientious hotel in the heart of the old town. Its 14-horses brasserie is hailed as one of the best in the country, with excellent service and a farm-to-table restaurant, . The hotel is already a member of the Design Hotels network, in recognition for the audacious renovations of an aristocratic mansion and is perfectly located on the main square of the old town. 

EAT

The global food scene is starting to notice Vilnius. Luckily, it’s still easy to get a table at those restaurants:
14 Horses, the restaurant of Pacai Hotel, a gem for lunch or dinner. 
Sweet Root: a favourite ‘locavore’ restaurant in ‘Užupis Republic’
The Gallery, inside the National Gallery of Art with large bay windows overlooking the city.
The Kitchen, hidden in a courtyard right next to Hotel Pacai, with pretty views over the old town main square.
Crooked Nose & Coffee Stories, a coffee laboratory of sort.
And read the story behind this impressive and modern wine cellar, by local architects

TRAVEL GOOD: a grant for displaced artists

In honour of Romas Viesulas’ lifelong status as a refugee artist, his estate is currently fundraising for a grant for artists in exile from all over the world. With the old Jewish saying in mind “An enemy is only someone whose story you haven’t heard”, the Centenary Grant will be awarded to one or more artists whose practice is informed by their experience of displacement. It’s a formidable initiative. Population displacements were immense during Romas Viesulas time. Sadly, they haven’t stopped. You can donate here.

GOOD TO KNOW

This piece from NY Times
Bookmark Vilnius In Your Pocket for practical guidelines.
No need to rent a car (a taxi from airport to the old town is approx Eur10-15). The city center is small and easy to walk around.

This short time in Vilnius left me wanting for more. I would go back in the spring time with the children in the back of the car. We would drive around the silent countryside, spend time on the pebble-stone beaches of the Baltic sea. And feast on more marinated harengs and picked vegetables.

SLEEP in ATHENS

We booked one night at the St George Lycabettus Hotel. What it lacked in style and service, it made up with breathtaking views over the Acropolis. The hotel is perched on a hill, it is worthwhile paying the extra for a room with a view. Five of us were comfortable in one of the family suites. The restaurant is nothing to rave about but the terrace (with a breeze) also has views to die for. 

VISIT in Athens

The children enjoyed our three-hour tour with Mrs Krikri (Vickykrikki@gmail.com and tel: +30 6945564978). She speaks fluent English and has a pleasant personality, with enough storytelling and patience to get the whole family through this itinerary:

The Acropolis Museum: opened in 2009, to great fanfare and after much delay. The collections of ancient Greek art are of course fascinating, as is the structure, at the foothill of the Acropolis. With more time, I would have liked to visit the Tower of Plaka and the atmospheric flea market of Monastiraka.

We toured around the city with a local taxi and stopped briefly at the thumb of the unknown soldier and its very tall guards.

We spent a while climbing the Acropolis and marvelling at the many views over the city, with the sun coming down, enveloping the whiteness of Athens with a delicate pink tint.

With more time, we would have walked to the temple of the Olympic Zeus, then to Kalimarmaro and also through Zapion, a beautiful building with classic Athenian architecture. And I was sorry to miss the national museum of archeology as well as spending time at the relatively new Niarchos Foundation, with a rich calendar of cultural events all year long.

EAT in Athens

Our only dinner in town made a big impression on all of us. We managed to get a table on the rooftop terrace of Kuzina restaurant, directly facing the Acropolis. We feasted on grilled calamari and one last real Greek salad for our last night in Greece. Totally worth it.

Other adresses well recommended by our Greek friends:
Cookoovaya
Ama Lachei in Exarhia, which has a wonderful garden
Barbounaki in the area of Kolonaki, for the freshest fish, unfussy atmpsphere, tables on the pavement and all.

There are direct flights to Zakinthos from many European cities, including London, making it a bit of a mass market destination. However, the island is still underdeveloped in the north, where Peligoni is situated. It is not a hotel or a resort, in fact, but rather a collection of villa rentals that all come with access to a private club, which acts as a (semi-inclusive) family-friendly resort.

Peli What?

Peligoni Club is privately-owned by an English family who has effectively emulated its idea of style and fun by the sea. They’ve done it in such a way that you feel part of their (very) large group of friends enjoying vacation together. You can pick up the English newspapers if you fancy a read (more Telegraph than the Guardian), and probably some English muffins with an English breakfast tea. But don’t expect a greeting in Greek as you walk in, or the best Greek salad either. You get my point: it’s well executed if you adhere to the whole idea of transferring London life to the sea, with a bikini. It doesn’t really do it if you’re looking to immerse yourself in Greek authenticity.

Peligoni’s range of villa rentals is wide and covers different budgets, giving the flexibility to find one suited to your taste and needs. The villas are not owned by Peligoni but mostly by locals, which means that they are scattered within a large perimeter around the club and ensure a feeling of not bumping into other members all the time. The owners of the villas are guaranteed a certain number of week rentals, giving Peligoni the monopoly of availability during the summer months. It also means that Peligoni handles the quality control during your stay, a comforting factor as there is a high standard in place.

Our rental was the dreamy Villa Amoulakis, located right in front of a secluded bay where pretty much no-one except us ever made noises and splashes. We would open the shutters in the morning, find fresh bread and doughnuts for breakfast on the outdoor table and walk straight out to swim. An incredible set up, nicely decorated with a bohemian feel to it.

It came with luxurious services such as daily cleaning with a smile, and views to die for. Peligoni can arrange to fill your fridge before arrival, and handles deliveries of nappies or toothpastes if required. They can also arrange a chef, daily or for a special occasion. Those are wonderful services for those who really don’t want to lift a finger during the summer holidays. If you prefer to do some cooking, the Peligoni deli (they really have invested into their branding) is not too far from the club and sells daily basics such as fresh produce, meat, bread, hummus etc.. The restaurant inside the club has decent food served casually throughout the day on long communal tables. Pity it doesn’t face the sea but the terrace is comfortable, shaded by large pine trees. Pity also there is not one single waitress / waiter who speaks Greek. Peligoni clearly needs to step up its commitment to boosting the local economy.

One of our favorite outing was the sunset cruise booked with the Peligoni club. We were lucky to go out with the Peligoni owners majestic sailing boat (our rental boat was unavailable last minute). We sailed slowly along the coast, the breeze was gentle, we jumped in the open waters and even Amalya – who was stuck on the boat as she had just broken her arm the day before – keeps an incredible memory of that late afternoon. Sadly, we were never able to make it to Navagio beach where the shipwreck is located, but it’s not for lack of trying. Once the wind was too strong (and the only way is by boat). Another time, our skipper cancelled last minute due to a technical failure. And when we tried to join the group tour of Peligoni Club, it was full. Oh well.. We still had fun renting small motor boats with Mikko Nasi, and visiting some of the stunning grottos along the coast.

You do end up spending for unplanned extras. For example, there is the option to take an additional membership for sports water but sadly, the winds are often strong in the afternoons, so it is mostly for confident sailors. That is something we weren’t told when we booked. On the contrary, we were encouraged to pay ahead for a full package (membership + water sports) for every single member of the family. For water skiing and all activities that require a motor boat (can we go on the banana boat? pleaaaaase), you need to book in advance (it’s often full), and pay a hefty price, even with the complete water sport membership. Bummer.

You will have guessed from some of my comments, the club does its best to re-create the feeling of a private London club … and things can feel a tad too homogenous : from the all-blond twenty-something English staff making some buck while having fun to the beach attires worn by the guests straight out of Grazia magazine. If you like the feeling of belonging to a tribe (and teenagers definitely do), this is the perfect place.

The Peligoni Club is perhaps more suited to families with really young children, who will take advantage of the Sharky & George baby and kids club where young ones can be dropped while parents chil out on the sun beds. Or families with teenagers who’d rather be left alone for the afternoon and hang by the sea with their new mates. The club does quite a lot to get teenagers together, in the form of parties at night etc. Of note: the theme of the end of week party was London Tube when we were there…hmmm…how about trying The Minotaur next time?!

EAT in Zakinthos

I have gathered below a number of recommendations from our Greek friends, either those who traveled with us, or friends of friends who are from Zakinthos:

– Nobelos: it’s a lovely family-owned restaurant and hotel not far from Peligoni, right on the water. I could see myself booking a few days there one day. They only have a few rooms, the area by the water is wonderful, and the food delicious (try the home made ice creams!). All the produce come from their organic garden.

– We had more than one meal with the children at Mikro Nisi, a very casual restaurant overlooking the water, fresh fish, grilled calamari, ouzo and all. It’s also the place to rent small motor boats without a licence, the ideal way to visit the nearby beaches and grottos early in the morning, before the loads of tourists arrive.

– We feasted on Zakinthian specialties at the restaurant Palios Anemomilos in Askos. They make their own organic wine (a very particular taste) and produce. The food is outstanding and the view high up over the coast. The son of the owner is back from training in hip restaurants in East London and brings a fun touch to his family restaurant.

– Porto Roma is another small hotel with a highly recommended restaurant, although we didn’t try it as it’s further away from Peligoni villas.

Porto Limonias is a secluded spot on the West side of the island, with a rustic restaurant, not tested either.

Traveling along the southwest side of the island, in the area of Keri village. Consider eating at Votsalo restaurant above the beach Marathia (booking might be needed). Otherwise, a walk in the city around piazza St. Marco and the square of the Greek national poet- Solomos. Book at Barkarola restaurant on the seafront to hear Zakynthian kantades.

Another day trip can be enjoyed along the coast from Alykes where you can rent a boat. Eating at Nionios taverna above the beach Xugia, for amazing view of the island. And swiming at Xygia bay with the sulfur waters, ladies take off all bijoux when swimming there.

Greece is magic. I can’t wait to discover more and more Greek islands over the summers to come.

Read here for my piece about Patmos.

Do you have a favourite Greek island?
xx

I was drawn to Prince Edward County after reading Canada’s coolest island hideout, intrigued by the fact that locals are well known to leave their keys in their car on PEC, in case a neighbour would need it. Wow. We arrived with our big SUV from the wilderness of the Algonquin Park, Amalya wearing a heavy cast on her broken leg, Lior as chatty as ever, and we quickly learnt to lower our voices and adapt to the slow pace of Wellington.

This charming old house was our pad for 4 nights, located just a few blocks away from the main street. It was decorated just right, with big brown leather sofas in the living room and woven artwork on the walls. The wooden floors were creaky, the doors not closing perfectly, and that was all the charm. Stefani, the owner, provided us with a comprehensive list of recommendations, which I have mostly shared with you below. Our favorites were meals at Pomodoro, Angeline’s and the Agrarian bistro, together with dinners with the in-crowd at The Drake.

If you’d rather stay in a hotel, the Merrill House is opening as I write this. It belongs to a friend of a friend, and is set inside a Gothic Revival House. It might not be the easiest place to stay with very young children but then, I’d definitely book a babysitter and go for a dinner tête-à-tête. The Drake is a lively option with young children, especially if you can get a hold of one of their large family suites facing the lake. The ping pong tables and access to the shores of the (very cold!) waters are a big plus with children.

One day, we drove to Waupoos Windery and Farm with the petting zoo, followed by a pretty lunch overlooking Lake Ontario at Waupoos Cider County, where the wood-fire pizza were a huge hit for the whole family.

Another day was spent on Dune Beach, in Sandbanks Provincial Park. It took us a bit of time to understand where to access the beach from and after some trekking with Amalya and her cast across the sand dunes, we found the most unexpected beach shaded with big trees. Facing the immensity of Lake Ontario.

We stopped at several antique shops and I secretly wished that we had a cottage in the area that I could decorate.

And when we craved for a bit of buzz at night, we headed back to The Drake for dinner.

MUM, I’M HUNGRY!

Lakeshore Farmers Market – great baked goods, meats, fresh and frozen fruits and vegetables, fresh donuts and killer pies! Hit it on your way in or out! Open Everyday 8AM – 6PM

Foodland – On Main St. Open everyday.
OAK Clothing Co – on Main St (walking distance), worth checking out. Open everyday!

Wellington Farmer’s Market – Every SATURDAY in season

In nearby towns:

Slickers Ice Cream – Yum!
Picnic Food Truck
Kin Café
Saylor House Cafe
The Hubb (at Angeline’s)
Agrarian Bistro and Speakeasy
Blumen Garden Bistro
Schooner’s Fish and Chips
The Hayloft – bar, bands, bbq

WINERIES

There are many tours you can sign up for. Most of the wineries have food/restaurants during high season (May-Nov):

Norman Hardie – including wood fired pizza
Hinterland – sparkling winery (right next to County Road Brewery)
Huff Estates

LET’S DO SOMETHING

SANDBANKS Provincial Park – beach, sun, water, hikes!

Mustang Drive-In theatre

So much antiquing! Dead People’s Stuff, MacCool’s Reuse and Jim & Dave’s Antiques to name a few.

The Arts trail / The Taste Trail – PEC is known for its arts and food culture. In fact, it’s the gastronomic capital of Ontario.

SEASONAL STUFF

Maple in the County
Countylicious
Prince Edward Bird Observatory
Spring Birding Festival in May
Terroir Run – May (11K run along the winery back roads) 
Canadian Cheese festival – June 
Lavender Farm (June is in full bloom) / Lavender Festival – July 
Quilt Show – July 
Apple Picking in Campbell’s Orchard
Taste: Community Grown – Picton Fairgrounds – September
Pumpkinfest – October in Wellington

EAT

– Favorite croissant: c/o Arnaud Delmontel, rue des Martyrs, 9th arrondissement
– Favorite Croque Monsieur with Pain Poilane: At Cafe de la Mairie on Place Saint Sulpice in Saint Germain des Prés. It might not be the fanciest terrace, but it’s still my favorite because I love the views and the atmosphere.
– Favorite ice cream: c/o Bertillon on Ile Saint Louis. And rather than sitting at the pricey café, take it in a cone and lick it down the stairs by the Seine River.
– Favorite Italian in Paris: Le Cherche Midi, not far from le Bon Marche, the tres chic department store, and Le Petit Italien behind place des Vosges in Le Marais … because that’s what I do when I am in France: I eat Italian, Vietnamese, North African food..but not much French food apart from croissants baguette and cheese! Also love Caffe Stern for Italian chic.
– Favorite bar: for fancy surroundings, it’s the Hemingway Bar at the Ritz Hotel. And for totally opposite vibes, hanging out with the youngsters of Le Marais, it’s Bar Bisou.
– Favorite brasserie: Brasserie Balzar, near La Sorbonne.
– Favorite bistro: Chez Janou, behind Place des Vosges in le Marais… with chocolate mousse for dessert s’il vous plait.
– Favorite food market: Marché des Enfants Rouges, but it’s more hip than cheap, and more food stalls than produce. Also love all the food shops on Rue des Martyrs.
– Favorite chic restaurant: Caviar Kaspia, with a table overlooking Place de La Madeleine. Would love to try Jean-Francois Piège one day.
– Favorite gastro inventive little restaurant: Vivant, such a nice recent discovery
– Favorite traditional French restaurant: C/o Allard in the heart of Saint Germain des Pres, a classic.
– Favorite vietnamese hole in the wall: Minh Chau, right behind the BHV department store. Too good.
– Favorite delicious patisserie: Sebastien Gaudard
– Favorite macarons: Pierre Hermé, but everyone knows that one already
– Favorite deli: Maison Plisson near everybody’s favorite store Merci, or La Grande Epicerie at the department store Bon Marche. Mouth watering whichever direction you look at.
– Favorite couscous: c/o Omar in Le Marais, almost as good as my mom’s

SHOP

– Favorite shop for me myself and I: Spree near Place des Abbesses in the 18th arrondissement. But also Dries Van Noten near Les Beaux Arts.
– Favorite shop to buy a bathing suit: Eres in Saint Germain des Prés on Rue du Cherche midi, and then go buy some buttery biscuits c/o Poilane. The irony of life.
– Favorite up and coming fashion brand: Bison Paris. Stunning leather and custom made pieces in a little atelier hidden away.
– Favorite shop for children’s and teenager clothes: Finger in the Nose, le Marais or Avenue Trudaine
– Favorite tableware store: love love love Astier de Villate on Rue Saint Honore but it’s pricey.
– Favorite homeware store: Philippe Model maison on Rue Condorcet, or the more well known Caravane in le Marais. And all the fabrics stores around Place Von Furstenberg in Saint Germain des Prés
– Favorite Kitchenware shop: La tresorerie, near Rue du Paradis

VISIT

– Favorite covered passage: Passage des Panoramas, with Caffe Stern above mentioned
– Favorite merry go round: The one right by the big playground of Jardin du Luxembourg, or the one at the top of Place des Abbesses in the 18th arrondissement, right by the tube, because it’s very near my favorite fashion store:))
– Favorite small museum: Can’t choose! Maybe Musee Picasso? Or Jeu de Paume? or Musee de la Vie Romantique? Musee de la Chasse? Musee Rodin? or Fondation Cartier?
– Favorite museum specially for children: Musee en Herbe, not far from pretty Place des Victoires
– Favorite big museum: Palais de Tokyo, or maybe Beaubourg? Grand Palais?
– Favorite square: Place des Vosges, no doubt about it
– Favorite touristic attraction: going up to the top of the Eiffel Tower..but buy tickets online and check that the staff is not on strike! not kidding!
– Favorite night out with the family: at the Opera de Paris
– Favorite garden: Jardins du Palais Royal, and sometimes Jardin du Luxembourg, if it’s a sunny day.
– Favorite art gallery: Kamel Mennour because that’s where I discovered the work of Zineb Sedira.
– Favorite up and coming street: Rue du Paradis in the 10th.
– Favorite massage: Ladda in the 10th, for a thai massage.

SLEEP

– Favorite place to stay: my mother’s apartment..oh..and by the way, she rents it out here

Have I missed anything out?!

Although Amalya broke her knee at Killarney Lodge, we enjoyed the serenity of the lake enormously. We’d start the day with a polar bear dip in the fresh waters, feast on enormous pancakes at the restaurant of the lodge, canoe to a little island nearby, and take hikes in the national park.

The cottage with two bedrooms worked well for us five, spacious and facing the lake. Our own red canoe, the warmth of the staff and the scent of pine trees made up for the plain (read: boring) interiors of the cottage.

Of note: some cabins near the road are not as quiet.

The Arowhon Pines lodge would have been perhaps more happening and atmospheric, but was full anyway. The Bartlett Lodge is another option, further deep inside the park.

Did you know that the Muskoka region, near the Algonquin park, is often called “The Malibu of the North” or “The Hamptons of the North” depending on where you come from?! Summers are lazily spent by Lake Rousseau, hidden away in large mansions, fishing, barbecuing and jumping in the water. Cindy Crawford and Steven Spielberg both have properties in the area, and the best way to arrive is by sea plane … next time maybe *_*

From the Algonquin Park, it’s about a 3h drive South to Prince Edward County where we headed next. If I was to do it again, I would try to stop for a night or more at the Big Gull Lake Lodge, a beautiful lakefront property. It seems to be rentable as a whole, or by room on airbnb.

These are a few alternatives to experience the wilderness of Canada:

– Kenauk, located between Ottawa and Montreal

– Or how about Nimmo Bay Wilderness resort for the ultimate remote experience?! Insane! In the heart of the Great bear Rainforest in British Columbia i.e. on the West Coast of Canada.

– And Fogo Island Inn, which has received enormous praise for its approach to conservation and sustainability. And stunning architecture.

NYC, London, Copenhagen, Provence and Japan: these are a few sculpture parks that we have visited and loved over the years. There are plenty more that I’d like to discover.

– HENRY MOORE Studio & Gardens, 1h North of London in Hertfordshire
He is one of Britain’s most loved sculptor, with his monumental stone art work (one of which can be seen in Hyde Park). His foundation is a perfect day out of London (need a car), with a typical pub – The Hoops Inn – for lunch nearby and lots of sheep dotting the land.

– Also in England, I discovered last year the NEW ART CENTER, an under the radar beauty of a sculpture park / gallery that belongs to a passionate woman. I wrote about it in this piece.

– STORM KING ART CENTER, 1h West of NYC
Everyone in NY knows it. Ceki and I first went there 12 years ago when I was pregnant of Marcelo, and I was blown away by the scope of the park. My idea of a perfect day trip upstate New York on a bright autumn Sunday.  Here’s a list with more ideas upstate NY.

– The LOUISIANA foundation, 1h North of Copenhagen
This place is a really special, serene, welcoming, and easily reached by train from Central Copenhagen. It’s well worth planning a whole slow day there. Note to self: I still need to write about our week end in Copenhagen.

– Remember that trip we took around Japan? We spent a few days in BENESSE ART SITE on NAOSHIMA island in central Japan, when Lior was just 2 and believe it or not, he still remembers it. Yes he does, because some statues were animated with a voice that said ‘ chatter chatter chatter” and we always bring it up (he’s our little chatterbox).. Naoshima moved me so much, with the emblematic and enormous pumpkin of Yayoi Kusama facing the calm sea, and the many installations and art museums dotting the island.

– CHATEAU LACOSTE, 1h west of Saint Remy de Provence, going towards Aix en Provence
It has been so much in the press lately. Originally known as an organic vineyard, Lacoste is a huge estate filled with large-scale art by world-renowned artists, including my favorite architect Tadao Ando. A luxury hotel opened last year on the estate, I hear it’s a special place to ressource, with a wonderful spa. Might be best to bookmark it as a just the two of us kind of place.

BROOKLYN:
– A feast at old-school steakhouse Peter Luger, an institution (cash only)
– Walk in the Orthodox Jewish neighbourhood
– Pre-book a graffiti tour with Brooklyn Unplugged
– Walk along the Brooklyn heights promenade to take in the view over Manhattan
– Cross the Brooklyn bridge – by foot of course

LOWER EAST SIDE / CHINATOWN
– Eat a Pastrami sandwich at Katz Deli (and maybe talk about that scene?!)
– Bagel & Lox breakfast at the (relatively new) cafe of (the very old institution) Russ and Daughters
– Talk about being an immigrant at the small but excellent Tenement museum
– Eat again! Dim sum in Chinatown, on Mott street or nearby
– Get a massage in one of those weird, cheap and fun places around Chinatown

UPPER EAST SIDE
– Eat again! the best burger at JG Mellon followed by cheesecake
– A jog around the reservoir in Central Park
– At the minimum, check out the inside of the Guggenheim museum. At best, view one of the exhibitions.

UPPER WEST SIDE
– Visit the incredible planetarium at the Natural History museum
– A pay-as-you-like tour of Central Park passing by The Dakota where John Lennon was killed.

DOWNTOWN WESTSIDE
– Go listen to a gig at The Village Vanguard, one of my favorite jazz club in town (13 yo min)
– Or at the more famous (more formal too) Blue Note jazz club. This is a complete list of clubs in the city.
– Jog along the High Line from the West village up until Chelsea
– Have a virgin cocktail at the bar of the top floor of The Standard Hotel
– Talk about pop art at the Whitney Museum

TRIBECA WALL STREET
– Observe the rush of lunch time inside the World Financial Center, or on Wall Street
– Take a minute of silence at the World Trade Center memorial and museum 
– Take pictures of the Statue of Liberty either using the super cheap trick of taking a regular boat to Staten island back and forth, or the touristy way i.e. buying tickets for Ellis Island.
– Brunch at Bubby’s for mac’n cheese? a bit of a Tribeca institution back in the days

MIDTOWN
– Feel on top of the world, on the open level of the Empire State building (buy tickets in advance)
– Have a burger at Shake shack’s original spot on Madison Park
– Or be adventurous, have a Korean meal and get into a Korean spa in Korea town (near Macy’s)!

SHOW IDEAS
– The legendary Blue Man Group still on Lafayette Street (only) after all those years
– Or Stomp, in the same kind of spirit
– Hamilton if you can get hold of decent tickets?
– Avenue Q? Jersey Boys?
– Catch an Opera at Lincoln Center (that’s grand!)
– Or a boxing match somewhere in the Bronx or in Queens
– Plenty of listings here
– Or an outdoor movie if the season is right
– Catch a movie at my old-time favourite (used to be around the corner from our house), Angelika cinema in Soho

AND A FEW MORE IDEAS

– A helicopter ride over the city. That’s a humongous treat!

– An afternoon spent in Coney Island Luna Park, travel back and forth by subway and see Brooklyn passing by

– The Bronx zoo maybe, by subway, for an excuse to go up north?

– Or check out the program at Madison Square Garden

– Of course, if there’s a good basketball or baseball game in town, go for it.

– And why not a Gospel mass in Harlem on Sunday morning?

– If you can’t crash the sofa bed of friends in NYC, then maybe stay at the Ace Hotel for the cool skate / graft / music vibe?

And when you’re back home, make a photo album that both of you will treasure for life (we use bobbooks but if we lived in the US, i’d also use artifact uprising)

Turns out, there are plenty of places in France where one can rent rent a combi VW. I found Estée near the city of Grasse. For she has a first name, you see. And she looks pretty good, having just turned 50. Born in 1968, she spent all her life with one owner, near the Champs Elysées in Paris – très chic – until she moved to Nice a few years ago. Estée got a new lease of life as a camper van for tourists when her owners could no longer look after her. We bumped into a few of her cousins during our road trip, high fiving with a smile and a honk.

This was our itinerary for 3 nights / 4 days and a few of our favorite things:

– The person who rented us Estée suggested that we head to the Gorges du Verdon via Comps-sur-Artuby for the panoramic views.  Little did I know how deep the canyons would be, and how curvy the road would be! And I suffer from vertigo, but I guess he didn’t know that. The Gorges du Verdon aka the French Grand Canyon, has some of the most spectacular scenery in Europe. We arrived into our campsite at dawn, by way of the D71 road. That night, after settling in, making the beds, charging the batteries, brushing teeth, I felt the adrenaline come down and wondered if I should laugh out loud or simply cry.It’s not that Estée was tricky to drive, because I am used to manual shift even though hers were rather stiff. It’s more that at every turn, I imagined the brakes letting me down and us falling straight into the ravine. Have you ever tried practising deep breathing while driving and shouting s t a y q u i e t mommy is concentrating. We all laughed that night, I was officially a supermom.

– We based ourselves at the small and friendly campsite Camping de l’Aigle just outside the village of Aiguines. We initially asked for a spot for one night (Eur35 with a view to die for!) and ended up sleeping there the whole time. Now, I don’t know if you have much experience staying in campsites and if you do, you’ll certainly laugh at me, but it was my (our) first and found everything so exciting and easy and charming. Plugging in the camper van, washing the dishes in the communal sinks, going back and forth to the toilets at night with torch and flip flops…

– One day, we drove 2h west to Quison to visit the excellent Museum of Prehistory, designed by the architect Norman Foster. It’s such an interesting museum for young children and adults, the restaurant and the shop are worth a stop too. 

– On Tuesday morning, we picked up some lunch at the small weekly market in Aiguines and had a picnic by Lake Sainte Croix:  baguette, corn on the cob and French ham. We took refreshing swims in the turquoise waters and filled our pockets with heavy pebbles.

– We always made sure to park Estée in the shade,  and we took great care of her, as you would with an older lady. We closed her doors gently, opened the curtains delicately, played music not too loud while driving.  It was as if an old aunt had invited us on vacation, took us around and we felt grateful of her energy and patience. 

– Once, we lost the cap of the gas tank on the road somewhere. And we only noticed after a few cars passed us honking and gesturing that gas was leaking out of our tank! That was an adventure in itself. Try finding the cap of a gas tank on the side of a road under the noon August sun in Provence. With two children in the back of the van. Good luck to me. In the end, I gave up, found a DIY solution, and hit the road again. Tripping. 

– One afternoon, we headed 2 hours west to visit an angora rabbit place. Amalya and Lior loved every minute there, petting the cutest, fluffiest and sweetest little rabbits they had ever seen. They did a workshop with Sandrine, the owner, making all sorts of things with felt wool in her studio. She is an artist and a child educator with infinite patience, and she lives off her passion in a tiny village in the heart of Provence. I was quite in awe myself at her dedication. 

– I was adamant to visit Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, known as one of the prettiest villages in France. After some delays on the road (don’t ask!), we arrived on time for dinner, struggled to find a spot to park the beast (yes, I sometimes called her that way when she huffed and puffed too much). Moustiers is so packed with tourists in the summer months that we barely found a place to eat, and I stressed the whole dinner about how we’d make the trip back to the campsite on the tiny curvy roads, in the dark.  

– When time came to part ways with Estée, we took her for one last stop in Tourtour, another gem of a little village perched on a plateau near Draguignan. The children marvelled at the most improbable shop, filled with all things from prehistoric times: shark teeth fossilised, stones from million years ago.

And then it was time to head back home with a smile, lots of photos and a huge sense of accomplishment.

I love it when I hear of a place that has never crossed my mind before: São Tomé and Príncipe, off the coast of West Africa. Have you been? It is a country made of two small islands, at the same latitude as Gabon. They are an independent nation previously colonised by the Portuguese, safe and stable politically, seldom visited and classified as a Unesco biosphere. I hear you, saying Stop it Vanessa! It’s too stretched for a family trip. But keep on reading and you might change your mind.  I bet the children would love it 1000 times more than watching a reality show set on a remote island.

São Tomé and Príncipe are often referred as the Galapagos of Africa but at a fraction of the price and there more endemic species per square mile than anywhere else in the world. The two volcanic islands were never inhabited until the Portuguese arrived around 1470. They are still sparsely populated, with only 5,000 people living on Principe, the smallest of the two islands. That compares with only 13,000 tourists visiting the entire country every year. Its fame came from being the largest cacao producer at some point in history but since the Portuguese left, the plantations have gone quite deserted. I imagine them having the charm of colonial architecture in Cuba or in Bahia. Today, the country mostly lives off agriculture.

South-African entrepreneur Mark Shuttleworth is putting these two gems on the independent traveller’s map. You might not have heard of him but he was the first African man to go to the moon. That doesn’t sound too bad on a resume, does it?! And he is one of the first to see the potential in Príncipe as an eco-conscious destination, investing millions into creating welcoming and stylish accommodations on the island, creating much-needed jobs and low-impact infrastructure by the same token. He has restored and / or launched three properties on Príncipe over the last few years. I would most certainly see BozAround hopping from one to the other soon(er) or later.

Bom Bom is possibly my favorite for a stay with children: twenty bungalows right on the beach, surrounded by tropical rainforest. “Be prepared to wake up early because life will be calling you” is the tag line. I can hear the noise of the waves crashing, the birds chirping and the trails calling…

Sundy Praia is a luxury and more pricey option that consists of a tented hotel in the wild northwest of the island. It has several large two and three bedrooms, and also offers lots of activities from turtle or whale watching to exploring the many trails in the biosphere.

Roça Sundy is a pretty mansion in a cocoa plantation that has been lovingly restored. More than 90% of the hotel team are local – which I imagine is the same in all the properties – and have received a year-long training from the Azores School of Tourism, a testimony to Mark Shuttleworth commitment to sustainability and responsible tourism on the island.

Good to know:  

You must present a valid “International Vaccination Certificate” for Yellow Fever on arrival in the country if (and only if) you have visited another African country in the 3 months prior. Otherwise, no particular vaccines seem to be needed other than the usual ones (malaria pills are recommended). In any case, always check with your local travel doctor or the Institut Pasteur, a leading institution in tropical diseases.

The rainy season is Oct-Nov and April-May. The temperatures seem to average 27 degrees. Yeah.

The easiest way to reach is to connect via Lisbon, where there are several direct flights to Sao Tome weekly. Spend a night or two at Omali Lodge before hopping to Príncipe with a daily scheduled flight.

This is the article that first got me curious about the whole story.

Ideal for those pre-teens and teenagers in need of connecting with their wilder selves… 

Photo credits: all photos are from the websites of the hotels mentioned above. The beautiful landscape photographs are by Scott Ramsey. You can see more of his work on Love Wild Africa.

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photo credit above: Vanessa Berberian

My friend and yoga teacher Kiki Morriss has a little yoga studio in North London that feels suspended between the city and the sky. She has the most gentle voice and every week, she finishes her class with a serie of Yoga Nidra visualisations.  Why am I talking about this on a travel blog? Because she has put together a set of simple sentences that she recites while we lie down with our eyes closed. Naturally, I have started associating each of her simple imagine with your mind places with snapshots of my travels over the years.  It’s my way of floating around the world every week, disconnected from the reality of the daily. I have shared the sentences below(in bold), and included some photos from my archives that often come to mind. 

Until Kiki does a recording of her guided meditation, perhaps you could ask a partner or a child to read those words to you, repeating each sentence three times calmly and softly, in no particular order? Or you could record your own voice maybe? 

In Kiki’s words: Yoga Nidra is a simple yet profound technique that can be used for deep relaxation, stress management and as a meditation practice. It is suitable for everyone, of any age or physical ability, and it encourages complete physical, mental and emotional relaxation. 

Imagine in your mind:

A forest in springtime
[Majete National Park, Malawi]

A wide, open, blue sky
[Atacama desert, Chile]

Waves reaching the shore
[Twelve Apostles, Australia]

Snow covered mountains
[The Alps, France]

A bird flying high in the sky
[Patagonia, Argentina]

A winding river
[Sigiriya, Sri Lanka]

A waterfall
[Iguazu falls, Brazil]

A full moon in the sky
[Moon Valley, Chile]

A butterfly landing on a flower
[Chiang Mai, Thailand]

A rainbow in the sky
[Tobago]

A vast ocean
[Pacific Ocean]

A meadow of wildflowers
[Provence, France]

A setting sun
[Tuscany, Italy]

Snow falling from the sky
[Kitzbuhel, Austria]

A great desert
[Wahiba Sands, Oman]

A flower in the palm of your hand
[Hampstead Heath, London]

A smiling face
[anywhere everywhere]

photo credit above: Michelle Marshall

Kiki is working on a book about family yoga, with many good ideas about how to initiate the children to this calming practice. Stay tuned.

xx Namaste

Technicolove is a magic technic. Have you heard of it?! Reds, Blues, Yellows to beat the boredom of a long-standing relationship. Si! Yes! It works!  La Minervetta is a very special place, part of my more extensive guide to the Amalfi Coast.

It’s located near Sorrento, with views that you would never imagine when going down the little staircase that leads to the entrance. A maison rather than a hotel, it was built in the 1950’s by the current owner’s grandparents. You can still feel the Danish influence of Wanda, the Danish grand-mother in the choice of furniture such as the Arne Jacobsen chairs dotting the house. The exuberant colour palette is the perfect antidote to bad mood days. The rooms have bay windows facing the Vesuvius volcano in the background,  wood and ceramics  mixed skilfully all throughout. The pool is secluded in the garden, so private you could think it’s your own. And going down 15′ the steep staircase, you arrive in a charming little harbour with lounge chairs to rent by the day, and ladders taking you down in the Mediterranean sea from the terraces.

I cannot think of a better place to keep the flame alive in this little part of the world. Amore, Amore, Amore.

Get There

The Amalfi coast is best approached via Napoli, whether arriving by train from Rome and beyond, or landing near the Vesuvio. Just make sure to book a window seat. The region has several landmarks and it’s a tricky decision when it comes to choosing a base. Capri, located in the distance of Napoli’s bay could be visited for the day but I think it’s better to keep it for a trip of its own. Sorrento, with its graphic beach clubs makes a photogenic first stop going South on the coast. Positano comes next with its picture-perfect white houses dotting the hills. Then, it’s Amalfi, a larger town with a proper harbour and imposing aristocratic houses. And high up, Ravello, standing proud and discreet over the cliffs. Of course, to lounge by the water, one would prefer the heat of the summer. However, the region is a dream destination all year long with the blues of the sky merging gently with the colours of the sea at any point of time. May June and September would be my favourite months if I had to choose.

A bit for everyone

For the epicurian, the region is filled with outstanding places of delight. From the little trattoria hidden away in villages to the fancier alternatives of Positano, the mamas and papas in the kitchens need only to extend an arm to collect the freshest produce in the country. First-crush olive oils, bright organic lemons, juicy red tomatoes paired with melting burrata, meals are a feast from breakfast until late at night. The sea provides an added source of culinary pleasures, whether you like your fish seared, in carpaccio or perhaps marinated with olives and capers.

For the sun seeker, the multitude of little bays takes the art of farniente to an extreme. Hiring a skipper for a day, hopping from beach to islets, is a wonderful way to discover the photogenic coastline. For the culturist, there is an abundance of festivals during the spring and summer months, culminating with the world-renowned Ravello music festival. Under Apollo’s guidance, the sky and the sounds seem to merge in a magical tune in this little town perched high up above the coast. And for the shopper at heart, the streets of Positano offer a concentration of wonderful artisan works.

Yet, for a region so famous the world over, it is remarkable how many pockets of quiet and discreet charm one can still enjoy. Scents of orange blossoms mixed with pine trees, a shoemaker offering his services seated on a stool in front of his shop window. A widow dressed in the customary black, hanging the bed sheets to dry under the sun. Hikes in the surrounding forests of the island provide another perspective, with vistas high above the deep blues of the sea.Soaking in gently the dolce vita is the way to go to appreciate this treasure given to all of us by the Roman gods.

Rooms with a view

Two nights in Sorrento. We stopped at La Minervetta, a hotel I will never forget. As if invited to the home of someone with a certain eye for beauty, someone with a taste for good things, someone that you want to become friend with right away. The rooms have a view that is more than a view. It’s a painting, it’s a love story, it’s so many emotions in one window. They open onto the bay of Napoli with the intimidating Vesuvio in the background. When I walked in, I thought I would seat in that Arne Jacobsen chair forever.  

Two nights in Amalfi. The grande dame of luxury is the Santa Caterina Hotel, much loved by Americans in June. I’d go there again for the incredible pool, carved out in the cliff, but I wouldn’t go again for the rooms or the service, a little outdated and a little too formal. 

Maybe it was a mistake not to sleep in Positano. It’s so famous that I was worried of the crowds, but Positano is Positano. I would perhaps have chosen the Villa Tre Ville for old-school luxury, or Villa Gabrisa recommended in this guide by my friend who is an unconditional lover of Positano.

And for the cheapest and the cutest, Lo Scoglio da Tommaso would be a reason on its own to go back to that part of the world. Located in Marina del Cantone, at the tip of the peninsula, it is the closest point to Capri from the Amalfi coast. 

Three meals, like it’s the last days of Pompei

In Italy, we eat well pretty much anywhere (except in Rome maybe). These are three meals that I could have had over and over.

Lunch like a local who knows at Da Adolfo . Arrive in style after being picked up in the harbor of Positano by the restaurant’s own boat – but know that if you miss it, you can always take a taxi boat. Or swim?! For this little gem of a restaurant is hidden away on the 5th beach of Positano and only those in the know will remember to book a table ahead. Feet in the sand, lively communal tables, house wine poured generously, Adolfo (or his offsprings, as he sadly passed away a few years ago) serves some of the most authentic and freshest fish on this part of the coast.

Dinner with mama, high up in Ravello, at Trattoria Da Cumpa Cosimo (+39 089 857156). Mama Netta oversees the kitchen while her husband greets you by the door and her children serve you with a smile. This is family business at its best. The restaurant has been in the hands of Netta’s family for more than 75 of its 300-plus years, and Netta has been cooking for more than 60 of those years. Typical Ravellan dishes together with special off-menu pasta dishes, complete with homemade gelati or cheesecake like no other. Old-fashioned just the way we like it.

Carved out in the rocks at Conca del Sogno, near Sorrento.  Pasta with frutti di mare, a nice bottle of chilled white wine, and conversations about love, love, love:) On the fancy side with white table clothes and waiters all around, the way Italians do it best. We were dropped and picked up by boat, because if you’re going to do it, do it in style, Italian style.

Don’t miss

The festival of classical music in Ravello, under the stars. It takes place every summer: book ahead . It is one of the oldest and most renowned festival in Italy. It has given the name City of Music to this enchanting town perched above the Amalfi coast. Classical music star Marta Argerich (I would fly anywhere in the world to listen to her play Bach) and artist Francesco Clemente were a few of the prestigious names dotting the agenda in recent years. 

The Lobster and Martini Bar in Ravello, at the Palazzo Avino Hotel is wonderful for aperitivo. Once an aristocratic residence dating as far back as the 12th century, the Avino offers another set of incredible views. The resident mixologist uses herbs and seasonal fruits to create exotic versions of martinis, together with classic cocktails. The hotel also owns an impressive art collection that can be admired from the lobby.

The little shop of leather sandals chez Safari, in Positano, is the best place to bring back a pair that will never go out of fashion. It is located just above Positano’s main beach. From the basic models (either classic thongs or the spider’s web design) to the more sophisticated beaded versions, you can even custom make your own pair with a little bit of notice.

Good to Know

Rent a convertible car in Napoli airport but know that the roads are narrow, windy and don’t drink and drive (!). Alternatively, hire a driver with Positano Taxi Service Sergio and Ottavio will surely look after you, to go from town to town, as you won’t need a car once you are based somewhere. And remember that the traffic can be horrendous because there is only one road along the coast.

Hire a boat and a skipper with Mama Mia Sorrento Boat to explore all the pretty bays that you can only reach by the sea. Pricey, but priceless.

And save some for next time, because it is the kind of place we all hope to go back to one day.

Good food + Hiking + Detox

I had wanted to hike in Devon for a long time but never knew where to start. Simon, the founder of Yeotown has been based in the region for 20+ years, surfing the cold waves while selling antiques and doing interior design. He knows the area like his pocket, bought a piece of land with pretty forests and a magical river running through it.  Together with his wife Mercedes, they have created quite a loyal following for urbanites wanting to reconnect with themselves, with nature and with healthy food. It’s all done in a soft way. Nothing feels too dictated and it’s certainly not a detox as strict as the one I experienced at The Ashram. Some actually complain that the food is too good (I hear you giggling!) and that it’s hard to resist a second serving because the dishes are left on the table for everyone to help themselves. I actually enjoyed this gentle and responsible approach. My favourite moment of the day was waking up slowly from my room with a balcony facing the meadow, walking down to the river while everyone was still asleep, and meditate by the river.

The hikes are 3 to 5 hours long, going at a moderate pace. They are very pretty and vary day to day, from cliff walking to exploring forests and following streams. Once, we found a little fairy house on our path, the sweetest thing I had ever seen. Another time, it was a viper snake running past us, a bit less charming.

My hiking boots gave up on me only 15′ after starting the first hike. I had bought them in Chile when we hiked Torres del Paine in Patagonia a few years back. What a great way to drag attention onto myself the first day. Simon fixed them up with whatever bandages he had in his backpack, and on I went, as unstylish as I could possibly be.

The days go by fast at Yeotown as there is yoga both in the morning and in the evening, with a massage in between, and a lesson of something different every day (pilates, archery..). It is convenient that the retreat starts on a Wednesday and ends on a Sunday i.e. not too long away from the desk + the family, but still a solid 5-days to reap the benefits of the detox.

Yoga mornings and evenings

Yoga-wise, the classes are often split between two groups so that they suit everybody’s preferences. The teachers are not always the same but are all experienced and inspiring. Mercedes leads the practice when she is not commuting to London to teach. Oh, and I didn’t mention the daily massage. Pure bliss, especially when it takes place in the sweet barn converted into a candle-lit massage room. I still see Amanda, the shiatsu practitioner, when she comes to London. A detox is not a detox if there is not a good massage included daily.

Rural chic design 

Design wise, the place feels rural chic with lots of antiques filing the farmhouse, a fireplace lit in the evening and a soft colour palette throughout. I stayed in the room Patience, the largest in the farmhouse with a nice bathtub and a peaceful balcony covered with fragrant flowers. The new cottages added over the years are much more modern, private and very comfortable, but if I’m going to stay in the countryside, I prefer the full package.

Devon’s neighbour Cornwall gets more publicity with its picturesque fishermen villages and celebrity chefs, which I wrote about in 2011, but I found Devon perhaps more gentle, and a little more wild.

Ps: There is now Yeotown Kitchen cafe in the heart of London, on the hottest street in town aka Chiltern Street, Marylebone. It popped up on my deliveroo app today…Namasteheheh..

I first met Caroline Gaskin when I suffered from recurrent chest infections. She is a very approachable natural health practitioner and is a mother of 2 (now young adults, although you’d never guess by the look of her smooth skin!). These are all her notes:

STAYING SAFE IN THE SUN

AVOIDING JET LAG

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From the moment that we tasted the sweetness of slow living in the North of the island, we could not bother taking the car to the carnival crowds of Roxborough and Scarborough – although I am told that some caravans were fun to watch, albeit quite disorganised. We kept busy doing either nothing by the beach of Castara, or strolling around for a jungle hike, a kayak expedition or a visit to a waterfall..

Tobago is not for everyone. It is not your typical all-inclusive or swanky Caribbean island – and hopefully it will stay that way. To be fully appreciated, Tobago requires an easy-going and forgiving spirit, and it reminded me how much pleasure we get from less chichi and more authentic places. Jah man.

SWEET DREAMS

We based ourselves the entire time in Castara Retreat, a wonderful eco-lodge in the north of the island. This (un)hotel / (un)resort opened some 15 years ago and belongs to an English couple who come and stay 3 months a year. The rest of the time, the place is run by a very kind local couple – Jeanelle and Porridge. One of the team member is called Milk, prompting the children to joke if we were also going to meet honey and jam:). Porridge and his wife look after Castara Retreat as if it was their own, with smiles and many kind gestures from arranging a boat trip last minute when the sea calmed down and we were all craving for some good snorkelling, to having fresh banana bread delivered to our cottage, baked by Jeanette’s cousin.

Our stay at Castara Retreat

Castara Retreat has a detailed code of conduct highlighting its responsible tourism efforts. The team works hand in hand with the local community to provide authentic experiences to the guests and it is heartwarming to be given the opportunity to take part in their approach. Lorna, the owner, tells the story of how she worked relentlessly for a few years had in hand with chef Keisha to create a restaurant experience, simply called The Caribbean Kitchen, that embraces the local recipes yet is on par with western service. I bet the Caribbean Kitchen would make Alain Ducasse jealous if he saw Keisha’s setting, working from an open-air kitchen facing the endless sea from high above.

All the cottages at Castara Retreats are different in layout and scattered over the hill, each with incredible sea views. They come equipped with a well-appointed kitchen, handy when you want to prepare an early breakfast for the jet-lagged children, but they are not all equivalent in charm, so choose well.  We stayed in Treetop, the largest cottage but I regretted not to choose Birdsong or Rainforest which have better attention to details as they are entirely made with red cedar woods and beautiful colonial shutters. Treetop is one of the newest cottages. It offers good space for a family of five and proximity to the beach (you still need to cross a road) while it lacks in style, and it faces the village from above, being quite noisy when calypso music is blasting! The little earplugs next to the bed were a thoughtful detail. Clearly, the owners have put all efforts on the authentic factor and making guests feel connected to the local culture and the community, which is very admirable. With some more attention given to the style-factor, this place will become a true rustic-chic getaway.

Other options for the night

There are not too many options for style + personality + beach access + not an old-fashioned all-inclusive resort. The best quality big resort is located in the southern part of the island, together with some pretty villas available for rental:  those ones are on the carribean coast, as well as those. Not too far from Castara, above stunning Englishman’s bay, there is an area called Miss Mills hill. It’s not easy to access as the road is steep and bumpy, but we took a drive up there and the views are beyond postcard-pretty. Some houses are available for rent too, hidden in the vegetation and must be a haven of peace. This one called Tanager Ridge Villa and also Parrot Estate seem interesting but you’d have to inform yourself well for accessibility, services, food shopping possibilities etc.

DON’T WORRY BE HAPPY

Here is our collective list of favorite things to do for a week stay:

Hike in the Main Ridge Forest Reserve with Darlington

Our guide darlington (darlington@chancenaturetours.com) took us on this easy 2hours walk up North, and it was pure wonder. The luxuriant tropical forest is mesmerising, one of the most ancient in the world. Darlington shared tales of door-trapped spiders, boa constrictors on the path and poo of bats which the children loved. We hid under giant leaves when the rain came pouring, and took lots of photos of the children looking tiny next to the gigantic bambous.

Swim in the waterfalls

The children loved walking up the little trail in Castara to swim in the waterfall. It’s a rather tiny one, easy to find from Chenno’s cafe, but it’s fun to have it on your doorstep and swim in fresh water on a hot day.

Swim at night among bioluminescent plankton

The evening spent with Radical Sports kayaking in the laguna to experience the bioluminescent plankton will stay in everyone’s memory. We swam in the dark waters of the laguna, near red mangroves (me asking if caymans enjoy swimming there too) creating sparkly fairy dust all around our bodies due to the high concentration of bioluminescent plankton. Pure magic.

Yoga and Massage at Castara

– I enjoyed an introduction to Kundalini yoga with Elspeth in the beautiful wellness studio of Castara Retreat, facing the endless sea.
– I also loved (of course!) a deep tissue massage with Hazel after the long-haul flight (frenchsecrets342@gmail.com) although her prices are as high as what you’d pay in NY or London.

By boat or by car

– The 30′ car drive from Castara to Roxborough crossing the island up in the jungle and back down on the Atlantic coast is wonderful. I couldn’t stop telling the children in the car to look around, while we all sang to the tunes of Bob Marley’s redemption song.
– A boat ride with Porridge’s friend, stopping for snorkelling on Englishman’s bay, one of the most beautiful beaches that you can imagine, Robinson Crusoe style.

Things we didn’t get a chance to do but came well recommended:

– Visiting the Tobago Cocoa plantation in the center of the island, on the Friday 11am tour. I met Duane, the owner, a few months ago in London and was intrigued by his approach to making seriously good chocolate with a master chocolatier in Paris. You can buy his 70% or 80%, or simply come to Castara Retreat and indulge in the chocolate mousse. I surely did more than once.
– Riding with horses is an interesting organisation: they take clients on horse riding tours every morning at 9am along the beach and in the water (for a rather hefty price of US$100 p.p. adult or children) and they run a non-profit in the afternoons, Healing with Horses, to work with disadvantaged children and adults in need. I very much like this approach of using tourism as a means to fund a organisation with a great cause. I just wish they had more reasonable rates for paying guests.
– Visiting the Argyll waterfall, the largest on the island.
– Surfing in Mount Irvine Bay. Marcelo wanted to do that so much but Castara is 1h drive from the buzz of the South of the island, and the road is quite tricky, so we you have to plan well ahead.
– Going on a serious half day nature walk with Newton, starting at 7am equipped with binoculars and all.
– Scuba-diving with the non-profit organisation ERIC, which promotes sustainability in the northern part of the island with a research center (and they use the proceeds from scuba diving to fund the center).

HUNGRY

The food was fresh and truly yummy across the board, even in the tiniest beach shacks.
We had most dinners at The Caribbean Kitchen.  What the restaurant lacks in atmosphere, it makes up with incredible sunset views and a long menu worth trying entirely. My vote goes to Keisha’s fish cakes and chocolate mousse. The children exhausted all the stock of her homemade tagliatelle (i know, they should have had fresh fish everyday but I gave up my French mom rules during this trip!) They even had virgin cocktails at mealtimes every day..

Castara Retreat’s restaurant is closed for breakfast, which is a bit of a pain but the logic behind is to have you explore the village and have breakfast in one of the cafes there, such as popular Cheno’s. The trouble is that they all open from 9am so when the children wake up early and hungry, you have to have a back up plan.

A close number 2 and number 3 favorites were Cascreole on the beach of Castara and the little beach shack on Englishman’s bay. Cascreole served us a sophisticate grilled kingfish with a coconut milk sauce, roasted pumpkins, kale and jasmine rice. We couldn’t believe our eyes – and our tastebuds  – given how low key and inexpensive the place is. Our meal on Englishman’s bay felt straight out of a movie, seating upstairs in the cutest beach hut, everything simple yet so right, and it’s been there for 23 years!. And the view over the turquoise water is impossible to describe, so beautiful.
We also drove to Gemma’s Kitchen in Speyside and while the food was slow to arrive and not particularly exciting, I am glad that we experienced this charming little spot overlooking the Atlantic coast. We never got to try the fish pot but I was told it’s a must, south of the island.

GOOD TO KNOW

– Rent a car for the duration of your trip because it’s not easy to arrange a taxi on short notice in Castara, and you’ll definitely need one to venture around the island. Prince Robinson (prince@birdiesnesttobago.com +1 868-721-6970) has some of the best deals for quality 4×4.
– If staying north at Castara, and especially after a long flight, it’s worthwhile having a taxi pick you up (arrange with porridge from Castara retreats!) or at least you following a taxi in your own car as the roads are not easy to understand and google map will sometime send you to weird places.
– Stock up on mosquito repellent before your arrival, they’re fierce especially when the breeze slows down.
– Stock up also on some favourite food items for breakfast or snacks for the children as the local supermarkets carry local fruits but anything packaged is very processed and sugary.
– Rent those wellington boots from the man at the beginning of the jungle trail, you won’t regret them once you are inside the jungle! And do bring socks for that walk.
– Bring your own snorkelling equipment as it’s not easy to find some on the island

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In honour of World Book Day, I have put together a list of 30 books that my children have truly enjoyed reading. They are all about people and places in the world. We try to visit local bookshops whenever we travel, and it’s such fun when we stumble upon books printed in both the local language and English (or French in our case).

The suggestions are organised in 3 age groups, based on my own experience. Amalya and Lior still enjoy being read the same story sometimes. And Marcelo and Amalya often trade books, so this list is quite fluid.

I tried to point to a variety of online shops not to give the hegemony to Amazon (dream big!)! If you have a favorite bookshop in your hometown, would you share the name in the comments section? We can all do our part to support independent bookshops, they are a precious but disappearing tribe. In London, our go-to bookshop is Daunt books, especially the one located on Marylebone High Street, with the prettiest wood-panelled room in the back all about travel.

Also, I linked each book to a post written about the destination for parents with wanderlust.

For younger children, approximately 5-8 years old:

• Krishna steals the butter: stories around Hinduism | India
• Pablo Neruda, poet of the people: Neftali was his nickname..one of my favorite poets | Chile
• Shackleton’s journey: another version, more suited to older children | Antarctica
• The Butter Man: illustrated by my friend Julie Klear. Makes me want to eat a couscous each time | Morocco
• Edward the Emu: we bought this one during our trip around the world | Australia
• Mubu & Mu Mu: written by the founder of the Elephant Nature Park, which we visited in 2012 | Thailand
• Metha’s Great Adventure: we brought it back from a trip, seems tricky to find online | Bhutan
• Wunambi the water snake: a beautiful story telling about aboriginal heritage| Australia
• The Fox’s Kettle: beautifully illustrated by a Canadian author | Japan
• The Yellow Balloon: watercolours around the world, searching a little ballon | Around the World
• People: by Peter Spier, such beautiful illustrations again | Around the World
• My Village, Rhymes from Around the World

For 7-10 years old:

• Cloud tea monkeys: about a mother tea picker in India. For us it was relevant after our trip | Sri Lanka
• The Dreamer: another book about Pablo Neruda’s life, words only | Chile
• The Ice Bear: could be from anywhere very cold and very wild:)
• Elvis the Camel: could be for younger children too. We bought it in | Oman
• Manfish: the story of Jacques cousteau, for all ocean lovers | Fiji
• Illustrated Myths Around the World: by the very good Usborne publishing house
• The Little Pleasures of Paris: a really sweet trip around my hometown | Paris
• Nelson Mandela: The long walk to freedom: we picked up this one on Robben Island | South Africa

For 8-13 years old:

• • Explore, the most dangerous journeys of all times | Around the world
  • Ice Trap: also about Shackleton’s journey, but for older children | Antarctica
  • Treasure Island: a classic! we have it in French from when I was young | Adventure
  • Kensuke’s kingdom: by Michael Mopurgo  | Japan
  • Running Wild: also by the great Michael Mpurgo | Indonesia
  • I am Malala: hopefully everyone know’s that one | Pakistan
  • The Everest Files: for older children in this age group | Himalayas
  • Refugee Boy: one of Marcelo’s favourite books when he was 10 | Ethiopia & Eritrea
  • Letter for the King: adventures in a faraway fictitious land
  • Wilds of the Wolf: by the charismatic adventurer Steve Backhall | Siberia
  • Mud, Sweat and Tears: autobiography by another extraordinary adventurer Bear Grylls | Around the World

I like this quote from Michael Mopurgo’s website:

Stories make you think and dream; books make you want to ask questions.

Happy Reading & happy snug times, especially if you are, like us, caught in The Beast from the East. Now, that sounds like a catchy title for a children’s travel book…

Ps: Is there any book you’d like to add to the list? 

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Saint Martin de Belleville is a pretty attractive option when you want to ski in the largest ski resort in the world. It has access to the same slopes as world-famous Meribel and Courchevel but without the price tags, without the flashiness, and without the crowds. The village might not hold the same charm, but it’s a very family-friendly place. And you can eat really well, especially if you indulge in a meal at three-star michelin restaurant La Bouitte (but then, let’s not bring up the price tag..).

Here’s a quick run-down on how we did it last Christmas with my extended family:

– GET THERE:

The easiest is to take the French TGV (fast speed train) from Paris to Moutiers-Salins (book in the family wagon as soon as the tickets go on sale, about 3 months prior). Or take the Eurostar direct from London and then take a taxi (Eur80 one way for 8 passengers with Caroline +336 80 40 49 78 . She’s English, her husband is from St Martin. She handles the business, He does the driving. Team work!).

You could also rent a car in Moutiers (but book this very early as there are only a few car rentals in town), in which case make absolutely sure that it comes with snow tires (or buy chains at a gas station) at the risk of getting stuck in the mountains if there is a snow storm. You can also fly to Lyon, Chambery (1h drive) or Geneva (2h30 drive).

If you stay in a chalet which provides a chauffeur to take you to the slopes, or located right near the center of St Martin, you won’t really need your own car but I always find it reassuring with young children to have a car in case someone falls ill and needs to see a doctor quickly… which is exactly what happened this time around! Long story short, I was rushed to a mountain doctor for fear of a nasty meningitis, painful injection in the bottom and all, taken down in the valley by ambulance to the hospital..only to be told in the middle of the night that i needed to go back home (in a snow storm) and get some rest because it was just a virus. C’est la vie..

– SLEEP:
There are many companies that will sell you a package of transportation + chalet + all sorts of services (check out White Mountain) but me being me, I like to dig for deals and take care of it all myself. Call it independent travel if you will. We stayed in one of these newly built chalet run by Home by You, located at the bottom of the village. Ours was chalet 1, with 2 bunk beds in one of the bedrooms. It was spacious, comfortable and very stylish but it also lacked the soul and charm of an owner’s chalet. The bedrooms were a bit bland, all located on the same floor while the living / dining room was the real selling point, with unobstructed views of the mountains and a stunning wooden table for large gatherings. The service needs to be polished but overall, it was good value for money + style.

I also took note of those places, without checking them out:

This mountain stone house called le Trait d’Union has been converted into a b&b that seems full of charm. It just opened this winter after an extensive renovation. You access it from the slopes, or with snow shoes, the owner will come get your luggages with her snowmobile. It’s run by a mother-daughter team and I would love to experience it one day. Maybe when the children are older, or with a group of friends. Please let me know if you ever do! It’s possible to just have just lunch there.

La Bouitte Spa-Hotel (see below) is a Relais & Chateau with luxurious rooms in a nearby hamlet. I can’t even imagine what breakfast looks like…

– EAT:

St Martin has all the basics covered, from a quality butcher to a small supermarket with a decent selection and a good bakery. You can have your big shopping delivered ahead if you buy it online on superu. Our chalet had no basics a part from salt and petter, which I always find a drag (when I rent out our house in Provence, I always include lots of goodies in the kitchen, and a personal greeting note!).

We enjoyed a few delicious meals:

– On the slopes: at la Ferme de la Choumette, a working farm that produces mostly cow and goat cheeses. It has a beautiful terrace for sunny days and the added fun of eating next to the cows in the evening. You can visit it with the children to observe the milking of the cows. It’s accessible by car from the village or by ski from the slopes.

– In the village: at Le Montagnard, a delightful restaurant that specialises in all those delicious mountain dishes of fondue and tartiflette. Book ahead as it’s quite small. They’ll happily collect you and drive you back home. This comes handy after the yummy white wines from Savoie that you must drink with a fondue (never drink water with a cheese fondue! it would turn the cheese into glue in your stomach. It’s a golden rule!)

– In the little hamlet of Saint Marcel: the exceptional La Bouitte, a three-stars michelin by father and son Rene and Maxime Meilleur. This is such an incredible culinary experience. I won’t lie if I tell you that we decided on St Martin de Belleville largely so we could have a dinner there! The Meilleur family been in the village for generations and used to run a small pub in the 1970’s. Renee, the father, got inspired by chef master Paul Bocuse, he recruited his son in the kitchen to look after the patisseries, his wife greets the clients, and slowly, they have earned their reputation. We ate like kings and chatted casually with Rene and Maxime about their recipes, their family business, exchanging jokes as if we were regulars.

– GOOD TO KNOW:

Three are two ski schools that operate in St Martin de Belleville.

– We chose half days with New Generation for Marcelo (he’s almost 12) and Amalya (8). The classes are in English but more importantly, they cap the number of students at 8 (and Marcelo was actually alone with another boy for the week, lucky him, private class at the price of a group class!). Lior was in the French ESF school, with fun English-speaking teachers who taught him how to get down his first slope.

– If staying for a full week, it’s more economical to buy a ski pass for the full 3 valleys as you will amortise it in 2 days. The beauty of the 3 Valleys is the freedom to ski in this enormous ski resort, from Val Thorens and Les Menuires in one direction to Meribel and Courchevel in the other direction.

We like to experiment different ski resorts every year. We’ve often enjoyed Austria because the quality of the service is excellent. I wrote about Kitzbuhel and Bad Gastein here and here. We also loved Val d’Isere as the quality of skiing + apres-ski is top notch. And Avoriaz might still win the prize, in my view, for family-friendliness.

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Mr Imad Alarnab, a soft-spoken man from Damascus with smiling-eyes and a big heart took us on a journey to his homeland with a prepared feast of Syrian dishes, all served in his colourful ceramics. And in lieu of birthday gifts, everyone made a donation to the Unicef Next Generation fund supporting refugee children. We ended the evening with both hearts and bellies full.

Imad is a Syrian refugee who made it to the UK in 2015 the hard way, like thousands (tens of thousands ..  millions) of other refugees like him. He escaped Damascus one night for fear of his life, drove his car to the border, and embarked on the beginning of a new chapter, with many hard bumps along the way. He carried around his love of cooking and ended up around a stove in the jungle of Calais for 64 days before finally making it to London (after 7 failed attempts). Last year, he was reunited with his wife and three daughters whom he managed to bring over to the UK. In his own words: ‘it was the best year of my life’.

With the help of several charities including #CookforSyria in partnership with the Unicef Next Generation Project, Imad was able to turn his dream of cooking again into a reality. CookforSyria is a dynamic movement to raise funds for refugee children currently in camps. Two recipe books have been published to date, with the help of Imad and the contributions of many famous chefs such as Yottam Ottolenghi and Nuno Mendes. Several popups and supper clubs have been organised throughout London, often with Imad serving his delicious dishes, with the proceeds going to the Unicef fund.

I was introduced to Imad by the lovely Serena Guen, founder of Suitcase Magazine. (Serena is one of the forces behind the initiative #CookforSyria). Imad now delights Londoners with his soulful recipes. He is growing his catering business, aptly called Imad’s Syrian Kitchen … until one day, he can hopefully open a restaurant again.

With hope (and hard work), anything is possible.

To top it all last week, Imad came accompanied by his childhood friend Hassan Akkad last week. You might have heard of Hassan and his documentary Exodus featured on the BBC – he won many awards including a Bafta. An English school-teacher and photographer in Damascus, Hassan came to the UK the hard way as well, in the back of a truck, on a dinghy … He is now a respected film-maker and producer, with a calm yet moving way to share his personal story. During his exodus, he filmed the entire journey with a Go-Pro camera. The documentary humanises the account of those millions of refugees, without the sensational narrative that we all got used to in the news.

Above, refugee-turned-film producer Hassan Akkad: before and after, yet very much the same person, with the same heart and determination to fight for his life and for his values.

Ps: contact Imad via his instagram account until he gets his website ready. Or ask me for his tel & email.

Ps: none of the photos above are my own..except this little one below:)

The theme could have been: Art + Music + Green. Bruton is 2h30 away from London by car (an easy train journey but you will need a car once here) and is a mecca for Art. This stunning part of the English countryside has always been a magnet for artists, writers, musicians… and the hub of Bruton today seems to be At The Chapel, a gem of a little hotel / bar / restaurant / bakery / club with good taste and kindness all around. So glad we chose it as our base.  Of note: room #5 on the top floor has very pretty views, and is the largest and the only one that would accommodate a family.

FRIDAY NIGHT: After a walk through town checking out the little shops, Caro Somerset stands out with her good eye for pretty things (and delicious Somerset-made chocolates), we made it on time for happy hour at the bar of the hotel. For dinner, we enjoyed a delicious meal at the Roth Bar & Grill. It is the restaurant of the Hauser & Wirth art foundation, on the outskirts of Bruton, where the walls are filled with the private collection of the owners and the bar has a long and colourful mural by father and son Oddur and Bjorn Roth. The  restaurant prides itself in that the majority of the sourcing comes from less than a 5 miles radius, in true farm-to-table style.  The atmosphere is casual, the food is so so good (from seabass to aged beef) and it’s the place to be on a Friday night in Bruton. It was fun to go back to sleepy Bruton after dinner, and find the bar of At The Chapel still buzzing.

Note: you could stop in Stonehenge and visit this major historical site on the way from London as it’s right by the highway.

SATURDAY: How often do you find the freshest croissants hanging by your bedroom door when you wake up? The small details that make a big difference At The Chapel (Not to mention the gluten-free muffin they brought up in a minute. Yes, gluten-shit happens even to the Frenchies). We then headed to Messuns Wiltshire, a surprising art gallery within a stunning estate about 30′ drive from Bruton. Loved the light installation by David Spriggs, set in an old barn with the most beautiful wooden structure.

Took a long muddy walk through the fields (note to self: do NOT forget rain boots)

Headed for a yummy lunch at The Beckford Arms 5′ away from Messuns, mingled with the locals who were all exchanging christmas gifts, some dressed in fancy outfits, us with our dirty boots and our French accents pretending to belong. This chic country pub also has a few rooms to rent, and a long list of recommended activities in the area.

We could have, would have, should have stopped at Alfred’s Tower in Stourhead on the way back, as it’s a beautiful estate famous for its grounds and part of the National Trust…but we were eager to warm up and chitchat and giggle before the evening’s concert.

At The Chapel hosted a wonderful little concert that night, by the rising local singer/songwriter Jack Samuel, who used to be a barman at the hotel but has since performed at Glastonbury and will be on a European tour soon. A mix of folk and rock with a warm and deep voice. What luck!

SUNDAY: We missed the Magician’s show At The Chapel in the morning (they organize so many wonderful events all year long, it’s worth timing a visit accordingly) and we used our time until lunch to mingle at Durslade Farm, the site of Hauser & Wirth  Somerset.

We admired the surroundings designed by Dutch landscape artist Piet Oudolf (him who designed the gardens of the High Line in New York), wondering what it would all look like on a sunny summer day. It didn’t matter actually that it was a grey and rainy day. We still found the grounds stunningly beautiful. Romantic, Nostalgic, Atmospheric. Plants flowing with the wind, as if burnt by the cold of the winter, but standing softly all around. Magical.

We walked around the colonnades designed by architect Luis Laplace, who has managed to skilfully blend the new with the old, keeping a color palette and a sense of light that is very connected with Somerset.

We agreed to disagree on the works exhibited throughout the galleries, but we all loved the large paintings by Rita Ackermann, reminiscent of classroom chalkboards, and also depicting women flowing figures. Wow.

Worth noting: Hauser & Wirth Somerset organizes events for families and children every first Sunday of the month. Also, it is possible to stay on the beautiful grounds of the art foundation, at Durslade Farmhouse, in the buildings that they fully renovated into six beautiful bedrooms.

On our way back to London, we stopped near Salisbury at The New Arts Center, and were greeted by Lady Bessborough herself (and her great dane!), the force behind this magnificent land art space. What an unexpected visit. We learnt how she opened an influential gallery on Sloane Street in the 1950’s, and when her heavy sculpture of Henry Moore could no longer fit, she moved to the countryside with her husband, taking over this Georgian-era property first built for Lord Nelson. The land is never ending, with valleys and forests and cows and sheeps grazing everywhere, all of it dotted by large-scale sculptures. It is fascinating to step into this world of hers, as if we were guests for a moment. The space is actually a gallery with everything for sale. Highly recommended.

Of note: the space has an interesting educational program culminating in the ARTiculation prize, centered around history of art for 16-19 years old. Also fyi if you come with young children: there are no cafes (only toilets) and it’s not allowed to picnics.

After 3h30 drive stuck in traffic, I still don’t know how I managed to drop my girlfriends exactly on time at the Eurostar, at 6:39pm for their 7pm Eurostar (check in closes 20′ prior!) but I do know that today I am feeling a little down back at my desk in very urban London, so I am trying to remember the jokes and the stories that we shared, and the feeling of living only once and making the best of it.

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What better than the excuse of a 40th birthday (not mine though!) to explore a new region.
Or .. what better than a celebration with friends to enjoy a week-end away from the children?
Or again .. what better than a few days in grey November to enjoy the Puglian sun?!

I’ll take all three please.

Not that i need an excuse to go to Italy. I‘ve written about Sicily here, and about Capri, Rome, Tuscany, Umbria and Matera. This is my best of Ostuni and around. I think that my nona (aka grand-mother) would be proud to read these.

Our three nights at Masseria Moroseta were indeed very special, connecting with old friends, laughing, cooking together and staying up late without worrying about making breakfast for the children the morning after. It was sweet but short although sometimes, we don’t need much more than that to come home fully recharged.

Masseria Moroseta is a beautiful old farm opened about a year ago by Carlo, a Milanese who has spent the first part of his working life making movie sets in London. He knows a thing or two about composition, style and light, the three key ingredients that make the beauty of his place. From the large press and instagram coverage that he has received in his first year, you’d think that it was an overnight success. But it actually took him about 5 years to see the realisation of his hard work, from getting the permits at the Italian administration to building a brand new masseria a few meters away from the original one. A gentle reminder that nothing in life comes with the blink of an eye. His attention to detail and his dedication to sustainability are truly admirable. If only he was a little less Milanese-distant and more Puglia-warm, then it would really make for a big happy family home.

I’ve received a bit of praise on Instagram for those photos but truth is, the place and the region are so breathtakingly beautiful that it only takes a click to get a good shot.

What did we really do apart from eating incredibly well for 3 days? Well, we talked about what we would eat, we prepared one of our own meals with in-house chef Giorgia Goggi, and sometimes we hit the road to explore. I must say, we were in expert hands, since we were celebrating the birthday of Mr EatandTravelandLove.

These are a few of my favorite things (words typed  singin’ with that tune..)

– Waking up with the morning light, to an enormous table of Italian delicacies for breakfast, greeted by Carlo’s English bulldog who is as sweet as a doll and as photogenic as his home.

– A cooking class with Giorgia in the chef’s kitchen, learning how to make the local specialty of orecchiette with cime di rapa from scratch (if you’d like the recipe, leave a comment below and i’ll happily email it), lamb meatballs (well, not for me because I don’t eat meat..but Ceki, who barely spends a second at home cooking in the kitchen, seems to have mastered the art of it). And the best chocolate fondant I have had in my life. I swear! ( I know I shouldn’t!!): chocolate + almond + olive oil fondant with lavender whipped mascarpone cream. Mama miaaaaa.

– Walking around the century-old (thousand-years old?!) olive grove in the property, peaking at the Mediterranean sea in the background.

– Seating by the fireplace and reading books, listening to some jazz, soaking in the sun through the enormous bay windows.

– Driving around with our tiny (piccola!) fiat cinquecento (lucky us: we got a free upgrade at the airport for a convertible one, and we did manage to open the rooftop. That’s how warm it was)

– Visiting the famous city of Ostuni but also the smaller towns of Locorotondo with a charming historical center, on our way to touristy Alberobelo, which is famous for the hundreds of trulli houses (those cone-shaped stone houses emblematic of the region).

– Ordering a big set of beautiful ceramics from Antonio Fasano and also from his brother Nicola a few doors down. They both supply The Conran Shop, Designers Guild and Merci .. and I got my order for a fraction of the price. And you will too .. thank you who?! (and grazie Carlo of course). I was touched by the story behind the naive illustrations on the plates. Ciro, the younger brother of Antonio, has a mild form of autism and has been drawing himself for years. Antonio who is very kind and funny has helped him develop a business out of it. I got a plate for each of us in the family. Ciro even managed to add a few curls for me and Amalya. I can’t wait to receive my order.

The town of Grottaglie is in fact very famous for its ceramics since the Roman times, thanks to the quality of the clay that can be found in the surrounding hills. It’s about 1h drive from Masseria Moroseta.

– Eating the freshest fish for lunchtime at Pescheria 2 Mari in Fasano. The tiny restaurant has a modern style of its own yet it is in a very unassuming coastal town. It must be assailed by beachgoers in the summer months and we had it all for ourselves.

– Sunday strolling like a local in Polignano a Mare, a well known town for its dramatic landscape facing the sea. Again, it’s probably a drag to see it in summer, but how special was it with empty streets and views all to ourselves. This place is straight out of a postcard. We had an incredible lunch, rather fancy, spaghetti alle fruttidi mare and all, at Osteria di Chibibio, our last feast before we headed back to the airport (tel: +39 08 0424 0488)

– Visiting the art foundation Pino Pascali on the outskirts of Polignano a Mare. A gem of a contemporary art museum where we discovered the work of Belgium artist Hans Op De Beeck.

GOOD TO KNOW:
– Fly into Bari with Ryanair, and rent a car at the airport (a must). Oh, those low cost flights to discover Europe..they are so hard to resist! Ceki was excited to see Antonio Conte on our Ryanair flight and told me..you see, we’re not the only sheeps flying with this airline. I had no clue who he is but fyi..he’s the coach of Chelsea Football team. If Antonio flies Ryanair, who am I to complain.

– Or fly into Brindisi airport, much closer to Ostuni but you’ll likely have to connect in Milan or Rome for an international flight.

– Don’t drink and drive! The food and wine are so good, it takes quite a bit of consensus to have a designated driver.

– There are plenty of masserias to rent in Puglia, some too classic to my taste, so be careful with all the renovation works displayed on photos. Also, I would not advise to stay in one of the ‘pretend’ trulli. They are replica of thousand year old houses often done with dubious taste.

-These are some of my bookmarks in case Masseria Moroseta would be full. Worth noting, Moroseta does not have interconnecting rooms so they are not an obvious choice with young children. And remember that I have not visited any of the following so do your own due diligence:
Think Puglia: Villa Blanca, Le Antiche Pajare
Borgo Egnazia, a Eur50mln property development that has gotten enormous raves for its stylish design and family-friendliness
Nearby Egnazia: Masseria Torre Coccaro and Masseria Torre Maizza or Il Trappeto
Also, Masseria Cimino near Brindisi.

Puglia in November:

Sweet. But short. But Sweet. *_*

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We had a very relaxing time on this charming island: resting, biking, discovering pretty beaches and hanging around in the little town of Ars en Ré. We went for 5 days just before the peak months of summer, early June.

If you have never heard of Île de Re, it’s a rather small island off the French Atlantic coast, about 1h30 north of Bordeaux, 3h by fast train from Paris. You can go from one end to another in less than 1h by car, or even better, by bicycle. It was recently connected by a few low cost airlines to London and a bridge between La Rochelle city and the island was built about ten years ago, making it an easy destination for a short stay. Locals feared that both connections would spoil their peace and quiet, and truth is, the population increases ten fold every summer in July and August, especially with Parisians owning secondary homes (and bringing in their chic + bad moods …). Outside peak season, it remains very low key and picture perfect, ideal with children because it’s very mellow and outdoorsy.

Île de Re’s biggest appeal is its flat terrain with bike lanes all around. It makes it a particularly ideal destination with babies and young children. Biking to the market, to the beach, to sailing classes, to the pine tree forests… quality bike rentals can be found all over, with carriages for the youngest ones, child seats etc..

TO SLEEP:

We based ourselves at the prettier than pretty beach house of Milk Magazine owners Isis and Karel. They rent it by word of mouth so ask me for their contact details if interested. It is located in the heart of Ars en Ré, which, together with Les Portes En Ré, turned out to be my two favorite villages on the island.

Ars en Ré has a lively market every morning, and the advantage of not just one but two pretty merry-go-rounds. Les Portes en Ré, on the other hand, is at the tip of the island and feels quieter, right by the long sandy beaches.

The main town on the island is Saint Martin de Ré, with a five star hotel, and its less chichi little sister property Villa Clarisse and lots of restaurants around the harbour. However, it felt a bit overdone and less relaxed maybe.

If you prefer a hotel to a house rental, Le Senechal seems stylish, and well placed (but beware, the restaurant is where we got treated quite poorly! … when you ask something to the waitress who then answers back with an annoyed expression “did you read the menu“.. yes I did!!). And this is a house rental that I came across and looks very well located and beautiful. Lots of outdoor / camping places listed here.

TO PLAY:

Everybody’s favourite activity: spending time at the beach of course.

The best ones are La Conche, a long sandy beach accessed from anywhere between the Phare des Baleines (the lighthouse) and Portes En Re. It’s easier to get there by car with young children, because it is about 8km from Ars en Ré.
There is a small beach right by the restaurant Les freres de la Cote ( beware, this is the place with bad service number 2!) if you want to walk / leisurely bike from town and then there’s a beautiful boardwalk along the water, accessible with the bikes.
There is also a quiet beach called la Plage des enfants near Les Portes, which literally means the beach for the children..

Sailing lessons: the children took a few with the sailing club of Ars en Ré. They have their own enclosed water pond fed with sea water, ideal for beginners. You’ll have to arrange (pricey) private classes outside of school holidays.
You could also rent surf boards from Re Surf and go kite surfing, there are lots of schools for that.

Horse riding and donkey riding with Les Anes en Culotte in high season.  During the peak months, there is a quality circus school that organizes workshops, they seem really good.

And Marie-Ange Frey will come to you for some storytelling or will take you around for walk in the woods or among the salt flats, although we could not coordinate our times so I never met her! She mentioned that she speaks english..tbc.

There are many places to rent bikes but we really enjoyed dealing with the team at Les Cycles in Ars en Ré, nice big bikes stable and comfortable, with all sorts of gadgets to carry the children effortlessly.

TO EAT:
Ourebest meal (and most pleasant service!) was at La Maison A lovely little garden where children can run around, vintage furniture ecclecticly put together and a refined menu served in an easy going way. Simple, Voilà. 

La Martiniere serves the absolutely best ice creams and waffles in the whole island and lucky for us, they recently opened an outpost near the lighthouse of the whales (phare des baleines).

Le Taxi Brousse in La Couarde area is the talk of the island but it seems to open randomly, or perhaps only in the summer months.

Le Chasse Maree looked particularly elegant with its little terrace and pretty flowers all around.

You could also go to a farm and get your own cheeses, oysters and others delicacies. This island is a paradise for oyster-lovers (not for me, thank you!)

TO SHOP:

Several inspiring antique dealers, especially Côté Jardin in Ars en Ré, near the merry go round, and Chez Laurent Mhon (next to the Cafe du Commerce), and also Marie and Benoit Rue du Havre.

Saint Martin en Ré has a lot more choice of shops although many are touristy and of poor quality. Little Casba carries an original selection of items for babies and childrens,  toys accessories and gifts. There is also a well stocked Tintin shop on the harbour, fun to visit, with tons of past editions, posters and memorabilia.

Marcelo has been talking about the value of my old Tintin books ever since .. I think he wants to sell them!!

A good read: 36 Hours en Ile de Ré

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UK-based tour operator Steppes Travel is organising a fantastic travel festival for all ages this w/e in London: Beyond Travel. I have never used their services but I have long admired Steppes’ commitment to shed a light on sustainability in travel, and their dedication to promote all roads less travelled. The company has donated over £1.2 million since its creation in 1989, to a variety of environmental, conservation and humanitarian projects and in the same spirit, all the profits from the Beyond festival will be donated to their #REFUSETOUSE charity partners aka refuse to use plastic.

I recently met founder Justin Wateridge, who kindly offered a 30% discount on the tickets of the festival to all of you my dear BozAround readers: simply enter the code insta30 at check out (in fact, most events are free to children).

It took me ages to decide which panels to attend with the family {a clear sign of wanderlustitis}: there are over 50 speakers scheduled over the two-day program and so many relevant topics. The highlight, of course, is legendary explorer Sir Ranulph Fiennes closing the event but there are many other discussions that will be excellent food for thoughts for the young and the not-so-young minds:

• Real-life mermaid Hanli Prinsloo will talk about why it is so important to conserve and protect our oceans. She is a champion free diver and ocean conservationist who can hold her breath underwater for five minutes and thirty-nine seconds!
• Amy Dickman is a conservation biologist passionate about saving Big Cats. She’ll share how she established Ruaha Carnivore Project (RCP) and developed a conservation initiative against a backdrop of poverty, tribal traditions and fears of witchcraft.
• Amy & Ella Meek, the 13-and-11-year-old founders of the campaign Kids Against Plastic
• Paul Barrett, a world-leading expert on the evolution and biology of dinosaurs and other extinct reptiles

And many more.. Use the filter Great For Kids to navigate the program.

Steppes Travel is launching the hashtag #refusetouse at the festival, in order to highlight the huge efforts needed to free the planet from plastic pollution. This little video explains the enormous dangers faced by our oceans with plastic pollutions. And have you read today’s interview of Sir David Attenborough talking about that same dreadful topic?

All of this echoes with some useful tips shared by my favourite travelling family on Instagram: Our Open Road

1. Don’t buy bottled water. On the road we fill our tanks directly, and when suitable water isn’t available we purchase refillable 20 liter bottles to transfer into our holding tank and to our jerrycans. We port reusable water bottles for daily use in the city or on the trail.

2. Carry cloth bags for shopping. Many markets require every vegetable to be separately bagged & weighed- a practice which as infuriating as it is wasteful- and so we reuse these bags many times over before they eventually become our garbage bags.

3. Buy cardboard and glass. When possible we choose products with paper packaging or glass, over plastic.

4. Food storage– we use upcycled glass jars (from above purchases) and tiffins to keep food, skipping the purchase of ziplock bags. Living on the road, glass jars do break, but we find it’s easy enough to replace them with that next jelly jar.

5. Eat what you order. When we do dine out, we try to order just as much food as we will eat to avoid the overpacking typical when getting food to go, while not wasting the precious resource that is food. This is one we struggle with most- kiddos who are sometimes starving and sometimes not, this variable is harder to manage.

see you at Beyond with the kids:)

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The last time I landed in Marrakech, it was in May 2011 at the tail end of our trip around the world, just as a bomb exploded on Place Jemaa El-fna, killing 17 people. We turned on our mobile phones while queuing in the immigration line, only to discover a wave of panic messages received from friends and family who knew of our whereabouts. We had left our children at home on that trip.

We followed our instincts and decided not to head into the city. Instead, we stared at the screen of departures in confusion and picked a flight Marrakech-Lisbon to make up for the missed opportunity of a long week end just the two of us. It was one of those spur of the moment episodes. Had I not been a mother, I think that I would have headed into the city and figured out a way to stay, and somehow enjoy. But the thought of taking risks while my children were waiting for me in another country left me anxious to look for safety. This moment made a lasting impression: I recall experiencing a strange mix of cowardliness and lucidity.

Now, the world has changed. Terrorism can strike anywhere, we’ve seen it over and over the last 5 years, very sadly. Sure, I would not go to Timbuktu for pleasure these days (such a pity because it has always been so high on my wanderlust list, and I am hopeful that one day I will go)  but I am encouraged to see destinations in predominantly-muslim countries rising again on the tourist map: Morocco of course, but also Iran, Tunisia, Oman, Jordan, Egypt… If we live in fear, we give way to negative forces, and statistically speaking, we are still way more likely to be hit by a car in a Western city, than to be victim of a terrorist attack anywhere in the world. Let’s be real. I am glad that work took me back to Marrakech last week. These are just a few notes that I wanted to share:

Ps: A riad is a traditional Moroccan house with an interior garden or a courtyard and there are many inside the old town of Marrakech. In fact, I was told that there are 1,000 riad transformed into bed & breakfasts to choose from in Marrakech! Not an  easy task. Here are 5 good places to remember:

1. Dar Seven: a riad that belongs to the illustrious Ruspoli family from Italy. Minimalist design (and minimum service!) with shades of beiges, greys and blacks. Quiet, Calm and Calming after a busy day in the city. Pleasantly located at the end of a mysterious little alley, in the northern part of the medina (the old town). For a bit more atmosphere, Riad Jaaneman is also a gem, playing on the Andalusian meets Marrakech style. My enormous room on the ground floor, courtesy of the owners – choukrane! – came with a wonderful private courtyard looking up to the sky. The Irish manager Madeline also owns a colourful read in the medina, perhaps more suited to families (and to smaller budgets). Check it out (I haven’t): Dar el Souk.
2. Dar Zellij is a very pleasant restaurant 2′ walk from Dar Seven, with one of those magical rooftops overlooking the city. The food is authentic and really tasty. The decor is fancy Moroccan-style, with rose petals on the table and all.  The service is not for anyone in a hurry.
3. Chez Mustapha Blaoui: if you only have time for one shop in Marrakech, head chez Mr Blaoui. It’s an Ali Baba’s cavern. Magical and hidden away. Prices are not very negotiable bc they are quite reasonable already. Be warned. merci Madeline for the tip:)
4. Driver Youssef who works for Oubihi Trans is such a kind and polite young man who took us all over town and beyond, waited for us, and apologised more than profusely with the sweetest smile that day when he kept me waiting for 30′. You can ask for him here: oubihitrans@menara.ma / oubihitrans@gmail.com +212 0677 866764.
5. Visit the Jardin Majorelle. Although it’s the most touristy place in all of Morocco, it is an incredible garden of exotic plants and marvellous cacti. Oh, and how sad to miss the opening of Musee Yves Saint Laurent which will take place next month! Commissioned by the fondation Pierre Berge – YSL, it looks incredible, from the architecture by Studio KO to the archives of one of France’s most iconic and talented fashion designer. Another reason to go back to Marrakech.

Read here about beautiful Tangiers the White – Tanger La Blanche – when I visited in 2012.

Dar Seven above

And the entrance of Dar Seven at the end of this dark and mysterious little alley. Love!

Beautiful details on city walls everywhere

I could have bought all these rugs

We visited a weavers coop where they team up to work and sell at fixed prices.   

Stephanie from the Galapagos Safari Camp, with whom I strolled around (and got lost) when we were not at work!

Above and below, the deep and enigmatic Bleu Majorelle, in the garden of painter Jacques Majorelle later acquired and made famous by Yves Saint Laurent. Read here for more.

Above, a photo of Pierre Barge long time lover and business partner of Yves Saint Laurent, and owner of the Villa Majorelle in Marrakech. He passed away a few days before my visit.

And my riad with a beautiful courtyard: Riad Jaaneman.

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Here is a snapshot of the places we loved. Everything is within 2hours of Catania more or less. We chose to arrive into Catania and leave from Ragusa, with an itinerary from north to south.

We landed in Catania airport where we rented our car, and headed to the city for lunch to get the pulse of things. Catania is a city of decaying beauties, one that has seen it all, the good times and the bad times.  The fish market near the cathedral is an authentic and lively place full of men shouting their stories. Two of them started a fight right by me, insulting each others in Italian ma che cazzo, che stronzo, guardalo !

We had a first delicious meal of antipasti and fresh fish at Osteria Antica Marina, seating on the small terrace observing the market close down. And then we set off to explore the region..

OUR 4-NIGHTS ITINERARY WENT A LITTLE LIKE THIS…

– The day that we landed in Catania with an early flight from London, we headed to Noto for 2 nights. Noto is aptly called the pearl of baroque.
This little city feels like an open museum. Mama mia, it is such a special place, frozen in times. A little surreal when you arrive. Different shades of pinks from washed out pinks to orangey pinks. Churches and duomos and ice creams and stairs to clim up and down…

– We drove one evening to Siracusa for the Greek tragedy festival and to walk around the charming island of Ortigia.

– And then we spent our other 2 nights in magical Modica, perhaps my favorite of all. Modica is like a painting, especially when you watch it from Casa Talia’s terrace, with the old town in front of you and the church bells ringing loud in the valley.

– We took a few side roads to the beach as we went along.

IN NOTO, WE LOVED:
– Walking up and down the Corso Vittorio Emmanuelle as you should and stopping for an ice cream, as you should.
– This perfectly curated exhibition of Marc Chagall x Ottavio Missoni on the Corso.
– Checking out the winemaker association in a courtyard near the Corso.
– Waking up at Palazzo Trigona right by the cathedral, with breakfast served on our huge terrace. The rooms have been renovated with dubious taste, there is not much service (it’s a b&b) but the view is a killer.
– My ice creams of montezuma chocolate and spicy fior di latte, at the atmospheric yet unassuming Cafe Sicilia, which chef Giorgio Locatelli describes as the best ice cream in the world here ..
– A day at the beach at Marina di Noto: we were pretty much alone and jumped in the chilly spring Mediterranean sea.
– Lunch in Marzamemi, which turned out to be my absolute favourite meal, both for the location and the sublime food: La Cialoma , make sure to book a table on the terrace by the water. I would go back anytime for those raw langoustines.
– An easy dinner with the locals at Trattoria Fontana d’Ercole, although for something a little more refined,  Manna would have been a good option. Or Crocifisso.

IN ORTIGIA & SIRACUSA, WE LOVED:
– An evening of Greek tragedy right in the Ancient Greek theater, part of the world famous Greek Festival of Siracusa … Don’t worry, if you don’t speak Italian you can rent headsets for a live translation in English!
– A dinner at La Foglia: the owner Gianfranco is a friend of a friend and treated us with the warmest welcome and the most delicious homecooking. The place is quirky, with tables spreading onto the street. Gianfranco is an interesting man: a well known author and researcher on neuro science as well as a wonderful restaurateur in a city that he loves and where he was born.
– If we had spent the night in Ortigia, we would have slept at Hotel Gutwoski (they were asking for a 2 nights minimum so we skipped).
– The old school Pasticceria Artale on Via Lanolina for the delicious pastries of almonds, pine nuts and other specialties.

– Good to know:
Park in Parking Talebe at the entrance of Ortigia as it’s very tricky to get around Ortigia by car.
Treat yourselves to a ride in a limited edition Piaggio Motorino on the main square, fun and soooo romantic.

IN MODICA, WE LOVED: 
– Staring at the view from our room at Casa Talia, a very special bed and breakfast, or rather a cluster of houses renovated with lots of style, a mix of old and new, by two architects from Milan. They fell in love with Modica some 12 years ago when the city was quite derelict. Over the years, they have been adding to their concept of slow living, purchasing neighbouring houses and rehabilitating them carefully, for comfort and style. Major crush.
– Climbing the 110 steps of the bell tower in San Giovanni church, the tallest viewpoint over the city in the cita alta
– Our very special meal at the one-michelin star restaurant Accursio. The chef, who gave his name to the restaurant, trained in one of the three-star michelin restaurants in Ragusa before opening this little gem recently. The food is a mix of local ingredients with modern twists, without trying too hard. The atmosphere is relaxed chic. The design is rather minimalist with touches of local craftsmanships, all put together stylishly by the owners of Casa Talia. A wonderful place for a special occasion without breaking the bank.
– The oldest chocolate factory in town, Bonajuto. Did you know that Modica is world-famous for its chocolate..?! And at its peak, the old city of Modica used to have a university, two cathedrals, and 100 churches…imagine!
– Sampieri for the 3km long beach with sand dunes, and a wonderful fish restaurant called Vota Vota where it’s best to reserve ahead as it’s fancy, but incredibly tasty.

– One thing that we did not enjoy so much: our lunch at Osteria dei Sapori Perduti, very slow service and cooking too heavy for a hot day.

IN RAGUSA IBLA, WE LOVED:

– Walking around the city on Sunday evening when the whole population seems to come to the old town for an ice cream and a walk.
– Walking again up and down on Monday afternoon when Ragusa is at its quietest, and taking our time to visit the many many churches.
– Visiting the gardens near the pretty Antico Convento dei Cappuccino
– Driving around on the windy roads to soak in the incredible views of this city.
– I wish we had time for a meal at I Banchi, the restaurant of famous chef Ciccio Sultano, whose 3-star restaurant Duomo is known to be incredible.
– I was disappointed by our dinner at two-stars michelin Locanda di Serafino. The service was spotless and friendly, but the atmosphere and the decor were a killer, and the food not anywhere close to the other delicious meals that we have enjoyed in the region.

…And then, it was already time to head back home, with our Ryanair flight in the tiny airport of Comiso, 20′ drive from Ragusa Ibla.

Links to bookmark: this one about the region with lots of food addresses, and this one from the US edition of CN Travel, with a focus on Noto.

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It just happened that his (Canadian) best friend from London moved back to Ottawa, and told us about YMCA Wanakita. I flew with Marcelo to Canada, maybe because part of me wanted to be on the same continent – just in case. Lior, Amalya and I waited around New York (a short hop from Ottawa), visiting friends in the Hamptons, in Shelter Island and in Fire Island (that part still needs to be written!).  This summer, Marcelo is going back and flying on his own with 2 friends his age, through Air Canada’s unaccompanied minor program. It’s a big move for an 11 year old but then, he seems to be ready for the adventure, and has been asking for it. I’ll just have my eyes to cry..:)

This is an interview that little sister Amalya did of big brother Marcelo last summer after we picked him up. I’ve been meaning to post it forever. Now is a good time to remember the words of happiness that he had after this extra special childhood experience.

above, the boys marching towards their cabin on their first day at YMCA Wanakita

Amalya: Can you describe Wanakita in a few words:
Marcelo: Wanakita is very open, and you can decide a lot of what you want to do. You have lots of time to do what you wanted to do.

How long did you go for and was it the right length of time:
I went for two weeks, and yes I do think it was the right length of time. I have done 1 weeks camps before but I did not have time to do as many things as what I did in Wanakita.

What did you like most about the camp:
I liked how it was very open, also that there was a lot of time of doing what you wanted to do, instead of what was prepared for you. I also really liked some of the slots that we did, for example Since I am from England, I got to try out a bunch of new games that I had never heard of.

How was your sleepover in the wild: (called OT)
OT is Out Trip which is when we go into a camp site, bring up a tent and spend a few nights there. I really liked how we slept in the tent and could hear all the animal noises outside, owls or angered squirrels but I also liked how it was very quiet compared the actual camp which was a bit noisy. The food during the OT, I thought, was very very good, some of the best of what we had during the whole camp. Out of the meals, my favorite was the fried granola which comes with a little bit of chocolate sauce. I felt I should have brought a few games because we spent a little while on the island when there wasn’t very much to do because it was a small island. We went there by canoe, across the lake.

Did you learn something new during camp:
I learnt a few new games, for example I learnt Gaga Ball and Tether Ball. You need to try to hit the ball so that it hits someone else’s legs but if it’s your legs, you’re out and the goal of the game is to be the last one not to go out. The aim of Tether ball is to spin a ball around a pole until it tethers. However, your opponent tries to hit the ball in the opposite direction and make it tether.
I learnt how to stern in the back of the canoe, which means to turn the boat.

Your favorite activity:
In the whole 2 weeks, I chose to do crafts, archery, air adventures and kayaking. My favorite of them all was either archery and kayaking. I liked archery a lot because it helped me get better at it but I liked kayaking because it was just a fun thing to do it.

Your favorite food:
Oh that’s hard because almost all the food was very very good. I preferred the food during OT, the fried granola.

Your favorite game:
Probably tether ball even though I was not very good at it.

Did you do any water activity:
swimming, kayaking, canoeing, paddle boarding,

What animals did you see:
I saw a beaver swimming in the lake and then we saw him go into his shelter.

What sort of friends would you recommend this camp to:
Friends who like camping and being outdoors a lot and not mind getting a bit dirty.

Tips for homesickness management:
I would try most of the time not to think of my parents very much, but If I did, I would think that they’d be more happy with me having a fun time and not being sad instead of me being sad.

The achievement you’re most proud of:
Either the polar bear dip badge, which I achieved by swimming in the lake at 6:30am every morning for 2 weeks, or the archery when I got my blue badge, which was to get 30 points in 6 shots.

I took these photos the day when we picked Marcelo up:

this was the lost & found display at pick up, although we never found his hoodie! Maybe it will be there somewhere waiting for him this summer..

GOOD TO KNOW:

• YMCA Wanakita sits on 1,000 acres of its own private land and lakes on the shores of Koshlong Lake, in the Halliburton Highlands. It is 2hours north of Toronto, and 3hours north west to Ottawa.
• The camp organises a private shuttle to pick up children arriving by plane into Toronto. However, last year, Marcelo was the only child not living in Canada and attending the camp. His British accent got him apparently a few sweet comments! (my little French boy with a British accent)
• Most children come from Toronto or Ottawa and around. Many parents have attended the camp themselves when they were young, a testimony of the quality of it.
• YMCA is a charity-run organisation and not only this means that the cost to send a child to the camp is moderate compared to many North-American private camps. It also means that they have an active Send a Child to a Camp program for underprivileged children and you can donate here.
• It is open all year-round (imagine it covered with meters of snow!!!) and if we lived in Canada, I am sure that we would have already enrolled in their family camp experience!

Please do share any good camps that you know of! There must be similar ones in Europe but I don’t really know them. I’d love to find a French-speaking similar camp so that we can hit two birds with one stone (and I’ve always hated this expression).

I have bookmarked this one in the UK, and this one seems incredible but it’s a different proposition. It would make our life a little easier – and our wallet a little happier – if Marcelo did not have to fly all the way to Canada for a summer camp.

But then again, BFFs are best friends for life.

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Marcelo has been studying the Romans at school, and learning Latin this year, so it felt like a timely excuse to take the family to Rome for one of our glorious European bank holiday week end. I first fell in love with Rome in my early twenties, discovering the city on a vespa, hair in the wind – as you should, right?! This time around, I had planned ahead, thought of a theme, booked a restaurant or two because I knew that three days in Rome would be a daunting experience if we tried to be spontaneous all five of us.

First things first, a good base:

My friend Mario had recommended his friend Marcella’s apartments near the Spanish Steps. Marcella rents out a few apartments in the same building on Via Bocca di Leone, a couple doors down from the famous Inglaterra Hotel. It’s in the heart of the fashion mecca, 8’ walk from the Fontana di Trevi, 10’ from the Villa Borghese. Tough to beat in terms of location! Though to beat as well in terms of atmosphere, yet quite homey with the kids. It’s as if Marcella has left in place all her family furniture, her beloved paintings, her golden mirrors, and a piece of her heart. She lived in the top floor apartment (the one we rented) for many years with her children who are now adults, and has skilfully turned the the whole place into a well run little business. Marcella will share her big black book of addresses, a driver to pick you up at the airport (handy after I got totally screwed by a taxi last time I landed in Rome)  – Gino Gessini: gino.gessini@gmail.com / +39 339 2995704, a chef and an American tour guide … I loved the red velvet throughout the apartment, the light coming from north, west and south, the views over the rooftops. Oh and I also loved the old-fashioned elevator and the internal wooden shutters that Romans open ritually every morning.

After all that marvelling upon arrival Friday night, we searched for a place to eat (everything was full) and we landed at Settimio All’Arancio, on Marcella’s recommendations. It’s a family-run trattoria (a tiny bit upscale but still lively and easy) with lots of fresh fish and the Roman specialities we were all craving for. I gladly indulged in my first pasta extravaganza: pasta cacio é pepe. Put a plate of pasta in front of the children at 10pm after a flight and suddenly everybody’s smiling.

… Our three days went a bit like this:

SATURDAY DAY 1:
MammaCult specializes in tours around Rome for families with children up to 13. They kindly invited us to try out their 1h30 Scavenger Hunt around Piazza Venezia. Ilaria, who is studying to become a school teacher, took us around hunting for a few historic landmark such as the statue where the shewolf breastfeeds Romus & Romulus (btw – I had not idea that you call a female wolf a she-wolf?! never stop learning). All three children enjoyed it but it’s our youngest, Lior, who got the most excited about the hunt and I praise Mamma Cult for finding a way to balance playfulness with curiosity. It was a great starting point for our week end, in the heart of the action, and with a few goals in mind, to let us forget the mad crowds all around.

The five of us then headed to Mercato di Testaccio for lunch, known to be the very first Roman food market in the city. It was recently renovated inside out on top of the ancient site. It’s hard to choose what to eat there because everything looks and is absolutely delicious. The market has a mix of stalls cooking on the premise (some with long queues of locals) and proper grocers, butchers, fishmongers, delicatessen, you name it.

There is a pleasant area to seat (and clean toilets!) and best of all, not one tourist in sight. We went with the stalls that had the longest queues, and we all had second serving of that stunning pizza al taglio with organic whole wheat flour (3rd aisle on the left of the seating space… good luck!). And then, ice cream for all..

I had booked the afternoon with Paolo Lenzi, a born and bred Roman who has been a tour guide for 18 years. I knew that we were in good hands when Paolo took us under a pine tree shortly after meeting us, children seated in circle around him, listening with intense attention about how Rome was first created. We walked around the Palatine Hill together, marvelled at little details that we would never have noticed without him.

Paolo took us to some viewpoints of the city where more stories were told, often with the support of his iPad, showing image renderings of the city in past times. At times, he bent to pick up wild mint, found a little shade where Lior could do some roli poli. And then we continued to the Colosseum, for more tales about the bloodiness of Roman’s forms of entertainment. We topped it all with an ice cream from San Crispino near the Pantheon (an institution! my favorite), and headed back home for a rest.

I thought the children would all collapse after such a long day, but truth is, the city’s beauty drives you beyond limits. We managed to take the children out for another feast of antipasti, pasta and tiramisu in the Trastevere, a lively part of Rome with lots of bars and restaurants that locals flock to, along the Tiber river. The restaurant Z’Umberto was a huge hit (book ahead!): beautiful terrace, reasonably-priced, delicious homemade food, lots of locals around us.

SUNDAY DAY 2:

To break the pace of all these sightseeings, Marcelo and Amalya went on a Gladiator workshop Sunday morning, courtesy of Gruppo Storico Romano. They loved wearing their massive steel helmets, dressing up in gladiator costumes and learning all about Gladiator life: the training, the various fighting techniques… They even had a fight Brother Vs. Sister with us watching and cheering… It felt good to step out of the crowded historical center. The Gruppo Storico Romano is based in forest spaces, about 20’ drive from the center of the city (we took a taxi).

We then walked around the Jewish neighbourhood, where we had reserved a table on the terrace of atmospheric Ristorante Piperno, a rather upscale institution with a mix of chic Romans and elegant tourists. The menu has a few Roman specialties executed to perfection, such as the Artichokes Jewish-style. Sipping chianti while the children played together on the piazza, I almost forgot that I had booked a third tour guide that afternoon. This time, it was with an American lady named Anne Hogan-Funaro who is married to an Italian chef and food guide Simone Funari, they have three children. They both came highly recommended by our host Marcella. Anne had insisted that we book a car with her to venture beyond the obvious. (she prefers that you get in touch with me if you would like her details).

Anne took us to a few very special places that were not in our books, such as the Catacombs of Caracalla, and the Giardino degli Aranci on the Aventine Hill, with the optical effect of the Vatican growing smaller and smaller as you walk towards it.

We finished with the fascinating Convent of the Cappuccini monks, a series of stunning chapels decorated with human bones. Nothing scary, really, as the chapels are ornamented in a very delicate way, and Anne had warned the children beforehand (she has 3 of her own, same age as ours). It made a big impression on all of us.

That night, Marcelo Amalya and I watched the movie Roman Holiday, feet up and smiling. It was their first black and white romance movie and I am so glad that they got to view it in the heart of Rome. We exclaimed each time we saw Gregory Peck taking Audrey Hepburn around on his scooter in some of the sites that we had seen that day.

MONDAY DAY 3:

After a breakfast near the Spanish Steps, climbing them up and down to make Lior happy (and me growing more and more frustrated with the mad crowds), we took a walk in the gardens of Villa Borghese, as you should on a sunny bank holiday.

And then, the children managed to drag me to a 3D cinema for a screening of the Time-Elevator of Rome over the centuries. They loved it. Me? … Luckily it only lasts 40’! After which, we all had for one more gelato!!! We braved the crowds at Fontana di Trevi (insanely mad! never seen so many tourists packed this way before) and it was time to head back to the airport.

CONCLUSION

By day 3, I must confess that I had had enough of the crowds, the incessant rumbling of the tourists, and the constant ‘excuse me’ or ‘hold my hand’ that I had to tell Lior. But I tried to focus on all that the children got to view and hear, tying it with what they are learning at school. History came alive for 3 days, and I felt that I had accomplished something really good for them.

BOZAROUND TIPS

– Try to avoid Rome on a bank holiday w/e, or in the hot summer months when the combo crowds + heat must be lethal. 
– Better to choose a grey wintery visit, perhaps between November and March when the city is at its quietest.
– Book a few meals ahead based on your research because it’s easy to not eat well or have to queue in very touristy parts of the city
– there are plenty of other themes to give a trip to Rome. We chose to do it all about the Romans, but the contemporary art museums are fantastic, especially the one designed by Zaha Hadid. Also I did not try to approach the Vatican on this trip but how special it must be.
– Be mindful that the first sunday of the month, all the museums and monuments are free to the public, making them even more crowded than usual
– Buy your tickets for the colosseum in advance!! here, and dont forget to print them!

Ps: I stocked on a few books at my favourite bookshop Daunt Books in London (you can find all those online), and I gave them to the children when we got on the plane, to build a bit of excitement. The Alberto Moravia short stories is from my university years. I read it on my very first visit to Rome. It’s a keeper.

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After a relaxing time at the beach, our last two days were packed with these visits:

We first headed to Geoffrey Bawa’s summer house, Lunuganga, just outside Bentota. I had never heard of this architect before but soon learnt about his influence the world over. He is known as one of the fathers of tropical modernism. His style is natural chic, and he was highly respectful of the environment, integrating nature in all his projects. Oh my…had I known that you could book a room at Lunuganga, I would have spent days lazying around, admiring the grounds and the interiors. I now secretly dream to go back without children, just a few books, and hide in the serenity of this magical place.  We celebrated Amalya’s birthday in the restaurant of Geoffrey Bawa’s estate, with delicious homemade cooking, seating at one of the few tables overlooking the river.

I had booked a private tour ahead via the website of the trust. The lunch must also be pre-booked at least one day ahead. I regret that we did not have time to visit some of Geoffrey BAwa’s other properties in the country, he was an extremely prolific architect. Another trip, another time…

We then stopped at The Rainbow Center, near Bentota, which I had first heard of here. The Rainbow Center is a UK-based charity founded by an English woman who witnessed first hand the catastrophic tsunami in 2004. With much dedication, she managed to open a nursery and primary school in support of local children from highly impoverished backgrounds. Today, with the support of a highly-dedicated local team, the school looks after 100 children who are picked up early in the morning with the school bus and returned to their families at the end of the day.

Our impression was that it was very well run, lively and colourful, just as any good primary school in Western countries. Our children listened carefully as the staff explained how the school children of the Rainbow Center seldom have a bed to sleep at home, let alone a toothbrush. The school provides them with everything they can to study and look after themselves, often supplying clothes and toothbrushes as well as books and stationaries. Please donate any small or large amount here. Any amount will help the wonderful work that they do. 

These photos are from the Facebook page of the Rainbow Center.

We finished it all with a night in the fortified city of Galle, located on the coast under Unesco-protection. Dutch, Portuguese, English and many more have passed here, together with pirates of course. It makes for fascinating stories. The city has undergone some significant changes in recent years, and there are hints of trendiness with some design boutiques opened here and there on Pedlar Street by English, French or Australian expats. Check out No 63 for fabrics and cushions by Lindsay Taylor of Tallentire House, and clothes and jewellery by MimimangoMany of the Dutch buildings have been restored. We joined the locals for a sunset stroll along the impressive ramparts and noticed how Galle Fort is still a real community with churches, mosques and schools.

Our last night was spent in the prettier than pretty Fort Bazaar Hotel in the heart of town. It only opened last year and artfully mixes contemporary designs with local crafts. The family suite was perfect for the five of us, spacious and gracious, as was the service. I loved the little library space perched above the courtyard, and the calming tones of greens all around punctuated with fabrics weaved locally. We did a bit (just a bit) of shopping in Galle, found party favours for Amalya’s friends back in London, and we finished it all with a romantic dinner five of us seated by the little pool of The Fort Printers restaurant.

Some further reads to plan your trip: this piece by a native Sri Lankan and this one full of yummy places. Will you add some good tips and addresses if you have any to share? xx Vanessa  

FAMILY SAFARI TIME

Sri Lanka has many parks. Someone told me that up to 70% of the country is under national park protection. Wow. You’ll need to choose your safari experience according to the time of the year and the wildlife that you would like to spot. You could do it as a day trip from wherever you are based but ideally,  it’s good to spend a night or two in a national park (actually in the buffer zone, as no safari operators are allowed to be based exactly inside parks) 1/ to avoid the crowds early morning or late afternoon and 2/ to feel connected with the calmness of the park.

Two of the most visited parks in the country are Udawalawe (where Master Campers has a solid reputation), and Yala, famous for having the highest concentration of leopards in the world. We went for Yala, for Marcelo’s love of wild cats and the fact that we had already spent some time here close to the elephants.

We were guests of Kulu Safari, a long-established campground in the buffer zone of Yala with 15 tents hidden in the bushes, reached after a long dirt road. It was a pampering experience, on par with the more famous African safari combos of delicious food + perfectly appointed tents (with a/c ?!) + knowledgeable naturists.  They had set up a curry feast for our arrival, before our first safari that afternoon under torrential rains.  We still managed to stop and observe a cute baby leopard, and we were all breathtaken, expect perhaps Lior who, at 4 years old, had a hard time realising how special this was.

A safari in Sri Lanka is a good intro for younger children. You can do just 1 night (and limit the cost), get an exciting encounter with wildlife (buffalos, elephants, crocodiles, leopards, eagles…!) and decide whether they’re ready for a full-safari trip in Africa. Dinner was candlelit back at the camp. We had the luxury of having it all for ourselves, shared only with a fun couple from New Zealand. Sarah was a school teacher (with this great travel blog on the side), and she had a few good tricks for the children, such as her drone that she flew over the surrounding plains, our children jumping up and down of excitement together with the staff of the camp. Meanwhile, I was keeping an eye out for cobras and tarantulas, as you should…

SEA SUN SURF at HIRIKETIYA BEACH

I was glad that we started by travelling around Sri Lanka and then rested at the beach because it was the perfect excuse (did we need one?!) to indulge in the luxury of Saffron House. It is a magazine-like villa perched up on a hill, overlooking the Indian Ocean. It does feel a bit grown up in style, with stunning four-poster beds, custom-made mahogany furniture and open air bathrooms, but nothing feels so precious that you are uncomfortable with the children. The Balinese style of the architecture, with several pavilions overlooking the swimming pool and the ocean, give it an easy vibe of living in and out. Of note, I would not recommend it to families with very young children as the bedrooms are each in separate pavilions, and they require to walk near the unfenced pool.

We were pampered all day long by house manager Chris and her staff (one of them was even a trained massage therapist, lucky me!). Chris runs the house as if it was hers, with love and attention to every detail (it belongs in fact to an English man who has fallen in love with the coast and often comes with his family).  Oh, and Chris can babysit too (we once went for dinner tete-a-tete at the Aman hotel not too far away, but it was a bit of a disappointment – especially the bill – when you can eat so much better for so much cheaper elsewhere!). Let’s not get started with Chris’ cooking extravaganza: from home-made pizza to the best brownies ever to fresh prawn curries… We learnt how to make hoppers, but now that we are back home, I must confess that I’d rather go eat at the new Hoppers, because it is a very very labor intensive process! Is there any good Sri Lankan restaurant where you live?

I had searched a lot for a beach that would be safe for the children, as there are regular drowning accidents on the coast in Sri Lanka (it is very important that you inform yourself before jumping in the waves). Saffron House is on Hiriketiya Beach, also called Horseshoe Bay, located in the village of Dickwella, about 1h30 drive south from Galle. It is one of the safest beaches on the South West coast, with hilly land on both sides of the bay. There is a perfect surf break, hidden within the vegetation, and a cool vibe all around, a cross of hippy + hipster. We booked surf lessons for the children through Marty, an Aussie who owns the small beach cafe / hotel Hiriketiya right on the beach, and we also had a few yummy lunches there when we were not simply lazying around by our pool.

BOZAROUND TIPS:

– These are some of my bookmarks from when I was searching for our beach accomodation: Salt House Sri Lanka is a stylish and economical option, with yoga classes and healthy juices. This airbnb has a nice view on the ocean and amazing location by the beach (2′ from Saffron House). This new hotel has so so reviews but maybe needs a bit of time to get up to speed with service. This site and also this one has a good collection of properties. This villa is a showstopper although the beach is tricky. Oh, and this one too, with older children.

– Try to avoid the national Sri Lanka holiday around April every year when the whole country is on hold, and the national parks (and hotels) get very crowded (and more expensive).

– Surf South Sri Lanka, run by Julian Runnette, will put together an entire surf trip, accommodation included

– You could go back to Colombo airport Bond-style, flying with a seaplane from Cinnamon Air near Dickwella…

… We wanted to spend our last night in atmospheric Galle, so we took the road one last time, with a stop at Geoffrey Bawa’s summer house in Bentota, and a night in Galle, on time for my little Amalya’s 8th birthday. To be continued…

ON OUR WAY TO THE TEA PLANTATIONS:

Tourists typically spend a day or two in the city of Kandy for its distinct atmosphere, the famous tooth relic temple and the attractive botanical garden. However, we had decided to avoid it all together as we did not want to bear with any heavily congested cities (we also avoided Colombo). As a result, we drove from Dambula to Haputhale in one go (a 6h drive), through the stunning mountains to the West of Kandy. A third into the journey, we spent a couple hours in the atmospheric town of Polonnaruwa, with a lunch break. Polonnaruwa is located by a lake, not far from Minneriya national park where herds of up to 250 elephants can be seen. It’s easy to rent bicycles for children or with children’s seats in Polonnaruwa so we took a ride among the temples, checking out the very large archeological sites, stopping under the shades of the mango trees as often as we could because…it was hot, very hot.

The children enjoyed the archeological museum (or was it the air conditioning?!), and they will remember the wood carving shops on the outskirts of town, where they were given a tour of the workshops (with the hopeful expectation that we would not leave empty handed. And we did not). Another worthwhile stop was the holy site of Buduruwagala Rock, seldom visited by tourists. It is an enormous set of Buddha statues carved into the mountains, they all appear very unexpectedly as you follow a little path in the forest, next to ponds (where crocodiles roam..or so i was told). Strange enough, this site gave Lior quite a few nightmares over the ensuing weeks. I am not sure why, maybe because of the size of the statues. He is not one to have many nightmares typically.

IN THE TEA PLANTATION AREA:

We based ourselves in Haputhale, at the rather old-school Aerie cottage of Kilburn Mountain View. This small hotel had come highly recommended by my friend Lis, who has lived in Colombo for 3 years until recently. Lis had also advised us not to sleep in Ella, the more touristy towns in the area, if we wanted to feel remote and closer to village life. Kilburn’s website is crap, they don’t answer emails very promptly, you’d think you have stepped into a grandma’s cottage in the English countryside yet the view + the space + the food that you get for the price that you pay are unbeatable. Quite ideal for a large family. They only have 3 cottages, Wildflower is the other good option but avoid Rose Cottage since it does not have the view. I would go back to Aerie anytime for that breakfast served on our terrace, porcelains and all, facing this:

For a fancier experience in Haputhale, this place looks appealing. Or a bit further away, closer to Kandy, people rave about this Relais & Chateau or the Ellerton Bungalows.

We spent our days hiking and touring around the area by train or by car (with our driver). The walk up to Sir Lipton’s Seat is incredibly beautiful, throughout the plantations of the Dambatenne factory. Our driver took up almost to the top (a strenuous walk with the children) and we came back down by foot. It is moving and humbling to see scores of women (and only a very few men) bent to pick up tea leaves, dotting the landscape in silence. Not a day goes by, now that I am back home, where I make myself a cup of tea without thinking of them. We found the visit of the Dambatenne tea factory very informative. As far as I can remember, it was the first time that the children got to tour a large working factory of any sort, understanding from beginning to finish the making of something. The factory is basic, still functioning more or less as Sir Lipton conceived it although it belongs today to the Sri Lankan government. Oddly, it’s when I went to used the women employees’ toilets that I realised how terribly sad their working (and living) conditions are. To work every day such hard labor, breathing dust of tea leaves with the incessant noise of the machines, and not even have a decently clean toilet to use in the daytime, that’s when I became tearful, all naive me.

For about 50 cents each, we took a train journey from Haputhale to Ella, stopping in lots of little towns along the way. We observed the people walking in and out of our train carriage, wearing colourful cotton robes. We marvelled at the views and the hills going up and down as far as eyes could see. We loved it.

In Ella, a more touristy little town further north, we indulged in our first non-curry meal (delicious homemade pasta al pesto, buonaaaa!! cant remember the name of the restaurant but it was recommended in our Rough Guide Sri Lanka) and we took another pretty hike to Little Adams Peak. It was rather easy although a little steep and you understand why once you are at the top. The whole region is about admiring the stunning views over the hills. I was blown away, clouds moving left and right and changing the panoramas in a matter of a few minutes. On the way down, it’s worth stopping at the eco-luxurious 98 Acres Resort for a drink. It has just open recently, and was built in an attractive eco-friendly manner, with reclaimed train tracks, thatched-roofs and all. It belongs to a Sri Lankan family who owns the 98 surrounding acres. They don’t have interconnecting rooms or special ways to accommodate families today, but told me that their family villas with private pools will soon open. Til then, we were happy to go back to our old-school cottage hanging on a cliff:)

BozAround tips: 

– The Cloud Tea Monkeys is a heartwarming book for children, a nice story to tie in with the journey

– The roads are windy in the Hill Country (it’s an understatement!)…so plan accordingly if your children are prone to motion sickness.

– It gets chilly at night and early morning, especially when there is a lot of mist. It’s a pleasant break from the rest of the country but it’s worth bringing that little fleece.

We headed straight to Horathapola Estate to rest before our grand tour. Horathapola is a working coconut farm with just a few pretty bedrooms, two of which share a private terrace and are ideal for larger families. You feel as if you were invited into the intimacy of a wealthy Sri Lankan family. Walls adorned with black and white portraits of the founding great-grand-father and his family. He bought the land from a British man in the 1930’s and grew it successfully to one of the largest coconut plantations around. Dark woods, pretty tiles, beautiful beddings on four poster beds, a welcoming breeze and a pleasant swimming pool near the oldest frangipani tree in the country. We had our first feast that night with curries, rice, papadom, rotis… you name it. At sunset, the ox carriage took us around the plantation: fresh coconuts picked for us, peppercorns, cashew nuts .. a warm and soft introduction to the two weeks ahead. I am told that there is also a good alternative closer to the airport called the  Wallawwa Hotel.

At dawn the next day, we drove 3h North East to the non-profit organization Elephant Freedom Project. I found it after doing a bit of research on how to spend time with elephants in captivity in a responsible way. Our trip in Thailand had taught me a lot about the sufferings of elephants used for riding (and tigers used for cuddling  etc..) We discussed it with the children and agreed that we should stay away from those riding places, including the famous Pinnalawa Orphanage and its poor record of caring for its elephants. On that note, Responsible Travel is an excellent source of information. The aim of the EFP is to care for the two elephants that they are renting, and to give them happier living conditions. Seetha and Rajha used to be respectively a logger and a rider. Today, they spend their time walking in the nearby jungle, getting a shower from the visiting children, bathing in the river, and pooing all over.. I am not convinced that they get their 20km a day walks or the 30kg of food daily, but I am sure that they have a much better life than when they were forced to work under the threat of the metal hooks. A day at the project is a sweet way to take it slowly with the elephants, participate in the many chores of the mahout, and prepare your own lunch under the guidance of the Sri Lankan family on site.

From there, we drove straight to Sigirya in the heart of the cultural triangle, making sure that we would arrive before dawn at our next base, Dehiga Ella. Sumudu, who handles the bookings for Back of Beyond, had warned me by email that wild elephants roam sometimes on the dirt road that leads to his property, but it’s not until we got there that I realised how secluded, how close to nature we were. We had our own beautiful treehouse, fully opened onto the jungle yet with a comfortable solar-paneled hot water bathroom on the ground floor. When we all tucked into bed that night (or shall I call it our mattress-on-the-floor-and-a-mosquito-net-above), the stars were out, the frogs were mating, and the fireflies were spreading their sweet dream wishes above us. Pure magic.

Our days were spent taking nature walks with Back of Beyond’s resident naturalist Kazum. He was a mine of information on top of being a wonderful cheerleader when the hikes got strenuous. Climbing to the top of Piturangala Rock with our little Lior literally rock climbing the last stretch will remain in the annals of our family.. Stuti Kazum!

I enjoyed the visits of the Dambulla caves filled with buddha statues. We marvelled at the history of the Sigirya Rock while we took on the 1h30 climb to the top (me pretending that I don’t suffer from vertigo in front of the children). Note: it’s important to get there very early i.e. 730/8am to avoid the crowds and the heat.  The children did the dreamy thing of washing themselves – sort of – in the river that runs through Dehiga Ella, free and happy, while I kept an eye out for cobras and tarantulas (me? yeah right.. but Sri Lanka is the country with the highest rate of snake bites in the world!). Ps: did you know that tarantulas’ favorite hiding place is the hole of a fig tree trunk? And that it takes approximately 45′ to die from a cobra bite?! Well, now you know. But it won’t prevent you from visiting Sri Lanka, will it? Hope not.

And we had a very special meal at the local village, eating with our hands, as you should.

That’s when it was time to say thank you, good bye, and head south to the tea plantation region…

Good to know:

The manager / naturalist at Back of Beyond Dehiga Ella takes a few days off every so often to go visit his children and wife in Colombo, so it’s wise to time your visit accordingly. It’s a big plus to have him on site. Back of Beyond is a wonderfully spirited little hospitality group in Sri Lanka that came recommended by my friend Lis. It was founded by a Sri Lankan man passionate about nature conservation. Dehiga Ella is their most remote property, and perhaps the most special of them all.

We hired an official (white shirted) guide at the entrance of Sigiriya Rock, it was worth it as the history is fascinating. Also, there are huge wasp nests when you get to the top and they get aggressive at certain times of the year. Marcelo being allergic to bees and wasps bites, I was a bit concerned to have left my epipen in the van.. Ask your guide if it’s an OK time of the year to climb the last stretch of steps near the nests.

Truth is, we can thank Marcelo for settling on Sri Lanka as our big annual family trip destination this year (it was a close win over the Galapagos..the airfare supported the winner). Indeed, it was Marcelo’s 10th birthday gift to choose where we would go next, and to plan it all (with me!). He had been excited by his friend Easton’s tales about this beautiful island. Tales of surfing, but also tales of elephants crossing, spices for breakfast and jungle everywhere.

If I must sum up the country in one go, I’d say it’s a perfect combo of wildlife + culture + nature. It is also good value for money compared to many other Asian countries. During the European summer hours, it’s only 4h30 time difference with London, and there are direct flights every day. Oh, and a little bonus: it’s been declared completely malaria-free since 2016… Now how about all of this for an easy family destination?

The planning of our trip:
We had two weeks available to travel, late March-early April. This partly determined our itinerary as certain regions such as the East Coast are prone to lots of rain at that time of the year, so we had to be wise with the itinerary. Marcelo was keen to balance culture and nature, take a train at some point, observe wildlife, and finish at the beach for some surfing. With this in mind, we first headed North to discover the cultural triangle,  then we came back down through the mountains for the tea plantations. And we finished on the South Coast for the beach and the surf, with a stop on the way in a natural park. We made the decision to bypass entirely Colombo as it is a very congested city. We also avoided Kandy in the center of the country, although it is on many people’s itinerary (botanical garden, temple of the lost tooth..) but I was concerned about spending too much time in traffic there too.

My biggest challenge was to understand the time that it would take to travel from A to B, not something that Google Map is very good at when taking into account the buffalos, the tuk-tuk, the buses, the trucks, the cyclists, the motocyclists, the school children and the cars that are on the road. Oh, and the elephants and the stray dogs.

Had we decided to use the services of a travel agent, those two would have done an excellent job I am told. They’re both based in Sri Lanka and very knowledgeable + professional: Sri Lanka in Style and Red Dot Tours

Our 14-days itinerary went like this:

1 night north of Colombo after our overnight flight from London
3 nights in the cultural triangle area, based near Sigiriya
3 nights in the tea plantations area, based near Haputhale
1 night in a safari camp, in Yala National Park
4 nights on the beach, in Dickwella, South Coast
1 night in the Unesco-protected town Galle and straight back to the airport

Kamal was our driver the whole time that we were in Sri Lanka; he came highly recommended by our friends who lived there. His English was not that great but his kindness was, and his driving skills too. You would not be advised to drive yourself throughout the country, and it worked out financially better for us to have him the whole time even though we did not need him on some days. Kamal can be booked here.

We’re just back and I am not sure that I would have changed much in our itinerary if we were to do it all over again. We loved it, and i’ll tell you why in a few successive posts…

stuti for reading me, and for following us on instagram whenever we had an internet connection.

xx වැනෙසා (yep, that’s me, vanessa, in sinhalese alphabet. you can check yours here)

Kitzbühel .. what a gem! Not a small hidden gem (like Bad Gastein was), because the village has been around since the middle ages, and the well versed Viennese and Munich crowds seem to know a lot about it. But to be honest, it’s quite under the radar given all that it has to offer. 

A picture perfect little village with colourful medieval houses, pedestrian streets and horse carriages. Church bells ring and provide a serene soundtrack all day long (here is my little video the day when it snowed so much). You can see mountain peaks wherever you look at, in particular the beautiful Hahnenkamm standing above the village. And there is a certain relaxed elegance throughout. Qüiet & Qüaint, just the way I lïke it.

On the practical side:

Kitzbühel is very well connected: 50′ from Innsbruck airport, 1h from Salzburg (we flew with BA from London) and 1h30 hour easy drive from Munich airport (plenty of flights everyday). We chose not to rent a car, and took a taxi / mini van instead as Rasmushof, the hotel we stayed at, was walking distance to the village and the ski school.

The English-speaking ski school Element 3 is süper well run, and geared to both very young and older children. The teachers were fun to be around, coming from Scotland, Netherlands, France… Ski lessons ran from 9:45am until 3pm, leaving a bit of time to ski with the children before or after. And there were never more than 6 children per teacher. That said, little Lior complained quite a lot on his first days that they were so so so soooo long and I ended up picking him up at lunch time the rest of the week. Another bonus point for Element 3: the race (and medals!) day is on Thursdays, so you can potentially go back home on Fridays and avoid the high week end plane fares.

All in all, it was a winner ski week for the whole family, not least because we had so many good laughs with our friends!

I’M SLEEPY:

We booked our holidays a little late and we were lucky to find a room large enough for us five at Hotel Rasmushof.  Its big advantage is the location, right in front of the ski school Element 3, directly on the slopes and a 5′ walk to the village. Oh, and the food was excellent.  That said, they coud make more effort for families staying with them .. If we are to come back, I’d ask for these family rooms: 337 & 338, 335 & 336, 123 or 124..

Check out these hotels too, although I did not visit them: Sonnbergstuben sounds like a fun place with the owner singing at dinner time for the guests! Hotel Gamshof is the only small charming hotel that I found inside the village,  Pension Hinterseer looked like good value for its location, Hotel Kitzof is the fancy design hotel in town. And these chalets run by Maierl-Alm are so beautiful with a remote feel, yet very near the town of Kirshberg, near Kitzbuhel.

I’M HUNGRY:

I should start by saying that I am a huge fan of Austrian breakfasts (similar to German and Swiss), a perfect balance between healthy and nutritious, and of Austrian desserts!! While we ate mostly at our hotel at night because we had booked half board (I would not necessarily do it again), we had a few yummy meals outside. On the slopes at Bei Tomschy (right at the arrival of the gondola from the village), at Maierl-Alm (see above), at Sonnbühel (lunch is a treat .. and then, there is the über treat of dinner, arriving in the dark throughout the woods..very special!). And we had excellent pizza at Centro in town (you might have to queue). This part of Austria is near the Italian Alps and you’ll find a lot of influence in the cuisine. Mama mia… those gnocchis served in a broth..!

BOZAROUND TIPS:

– The gondola starting from the village run every night until 11pm. It’s so much fun to take it up the mountain in the dark, and have dinner at the top at Bei Tomschy (great spot for lunch too).

– You must have the Kaiserschmarrn dessert at Hotel Ramushof whether you stay there or not. Out of this world. 

– Get your ski rentals from independent ski shop owner Michael at the entrance of Kitzbühel. Michael takes care of his material like no other, and will also deliver it to you.

– I fell badly on my butt the very first day (don’t smile) and headed straight to ostheopath Patrick Hinterseer that night. It really helped. And because I was hurting so bad (yeah right), I had to have a massage with Jürgen Obersteiner at Ramushof. I wish I could ski and fall (softly) everyday to see him again (+43 664 1319 155)

– Our friends took us for a session of Archery at Bogensport Gigl after a day of skiing. Not easy to find but the children loved it. This place is so well done!

– The cherry on the cake: many ski chairs have heated padding!!

Trivial Pursuit #1: Did you know that Red Bull was invented right in Kitzbuhel? Well, now you know:) It was actually invented on the slope where Lior had his lunch every day with the ski school! I wonder how many he had…

Trivial Pursuit #2: The Hahnenkamm mountain above Kitzbühel hosts the annual World Cup alpine ski race, and its most famous slope, the Streif, is considered the most difficult one on the world circuit. No, I did not try it.

 i am a pure and proud product of immigration.

My Christian grandmother escaped poverty in Italy between the two wars and crossed the Alps with mother and brothers in search of a better life in the mining towns of north east France … Meanwhile, my Jewish grandmother in law was leaving Aleppo (and never turning back) for a newly-married life in south east Turkey under Ataturk’s progressive rules … and in the 1960s, my Muslim father studied day and night in his cramped house in Algiers, shared with 12 brothers and sisters, to secure a scholarship and go study in France, a land of opportunities compared to the bleak future that awaited him in Algeria. When I was 13, an ignorant boy in my class called me dirty arab, and while it hurt deep inside, it did not deter me from being true to myself. I too later emigrated, a scholarship in my pocket, to work hard play hard the American way. I paid my dues for my green card and was lucky to meet my husband in the great melting pot that are the USA.

I might be Christian Muslim or Jewish, who cares, it’s nobody’s business.
I am a pure and proud product of immigration.
And so are my children, and so will be their children, and the children of their children.
Love Respect and Compassion have no frontiers.

We are all special with our own stories. We all come from somewhere near and far. We are all immigrants.
I’d love to read your story if you feel like sharing it.

This post was a call from the heart, prompted by one of the campaigns on the Help Refugees‘ website with the hashtag #refugenes i.e. we all have refugees heritage in our genes.

And some good reads here via Hither & Thither .. or that ballsy little animation coming from cn traveler.

I live in the UK where the notion of tolerance and open borders has been brought upside down. I am deeply attached to the US where walls – and so much more – have become an everyday threat. I come from France where a culture of fear now prevails. And what about the country of my husband, Turkey, where freedom of speech has turned into a thing of the past. Writing for a family travel blog seems mundane under the circumstances …

Yet it feels more important than ever to venture out, to discover the unknown, to see things for ourselves, to explain to our children why diversity is a celebration and not a curse. Curiosity killed the cat, but satisfaction brought it back. We might not all eat the same food, speak the same languages but all over, children crave to learn, mothers crave to love. We are one.

So rather than letting our children get influenced by the fear of uncertainty, now is the time to buy train tickets and travel around, cross borders, from hyper modern cities to lush valleys, witnessing desolate industrial zones on the way. Now is the time to go North to South, East to West on long road trips, unplanned, welcoming the unknown. And if we can’t travel right away, if budget does not allow it, well, at least, let’s excite our tastebuds with food that makes us travel, rice balls for breakfast! tacos for lunch! curry for dinner! Let’s play music that makes us travel. African drums playing in the car during the school drive! Let’s read folk tales at bedtime that make us travel.  There is a million way to open borders, to embrace diversity, to be citizens of the world. Let’s not allow frontiers to become the prisons of our minds.

We were in Shelter Island for only 3 days but it made a big impression on us. We drove there from the Hamptons and it feels miles away in terms of look and atmosphere. Shelter Island is a little world of its own, a very charming place stuck in old times reachable by ferry only, from Sag Harbor if coming from the Hamptons, or from the North Fork of Long Island. It’s tucked within the fork of LI and has been a shelter for boats for many years. The sailing club is considered one of the best in the country, with children’s courses all summer.

We stayed a few nights at the new Chequit a very photogenic gem of a hotel in the main little town, just a few minutes from the North ferry arrival. It has been a hotel for decades but needed a huge facelift, and lots of love. The new owners have turned it into the coziest and sweetest little hotel, old charm mixed with discreet modern touches and spot on service (aka great showers and avocado on toast!). Our friends were staying a few doors away in a house rental so we went back and forth, starting the day with a delicious breakfast on the terrace of the hotel. I spotted a few families at the Chequit although Lior was possibly the loudest (apologies again). They do not have interconnecting rooms but they are spacious enough to accommodate families with young children, or you could take two adjacent rooms and go back and forth as it does feel like a big house.

Our days on Shelter Island were spent discovering beaches and collecting seashells. Our friends knew the island inside out so I would not be able to say where we went exactly as we followed blindly (!) but a map of the island would surely give lots of options.

We loved the sunset hours that we spent on Sunset Beach. The children practically swam in the dark, found huge crabs with their nets and shared lifelong memories. We also loved our hike inside the Mashomack Preserve. It’s a beautiful protected area of coastline and creeks, woodlands and fields with hikes for all levels. Ours was one of the shortest, about 2h long, and completely doable with our gang of children from 4 until 12 years old.

We took a little trip across the bay one day to the merry go round of Greenport, where we also grabbed lunch at the organic supermarket and bought a few very comfy tee shirts at Local Knit.
We had delicious and decadent ice creams at the Tuck shop, a hole in the wall somewhere on a small road near a pretty organic farm. And I even got to enjoy a grown up dinner with my sweet friends, at the glamorous Sunset Beach while the children watched a movie at home. And then it was time to say good bye again…

Of note:
When coming from the Hamptons – as we did – you pass Sag Harbor and put your car on the ferry for a 15′ ride. No need to book ahead, it runs all day long and until 1am. However, it’s worth stopping in Sag Harbor for the day, for dinner or even for a few days as it’s a quaint little town facing the bay with a very different vibe than the Hamptons. Sag Harbor is defined not only by its harbor but also its main street, full of independent shops and nice cafes. The American Hotel is a classic old world place with a famous wood panelled restaurant. And must-stop at the buzzing BuddhaBerry where children will entirely customise their ice creams, with a million different options and a million variations on sugar intake:)

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Our 2-weeks turned into a mini road trip as we went from the Hamptons to Shelter island and last, to Fire Island. The journey involved a fair amount of ferry tripping too. LI is that busy stretch of land going North of New York City towards the West but once the highway ends, the air turns decidedly fresher and quieter.

On the South Fork of LI, you’ll find the famously chic and beautiful Hamptons, with long beaches, sand dunes and some huge houses. I had forgotten how postcard-pretty every inch of this area is. It’s hard not to be moved by the prettiness all around, although it’s also a bit too carefully staged.

Back in the days (pre-children, no money, working around the clock), we sometimes stayed in Westhampton with friends, which seats at the very beginning of the hamptons but lacks in charm and charisma, or we did ‘a share’ in Quogue, i.e.. we’d get a room for one week end out of the month, in a house carefully divided among many many people. That was (and still is i hear!) the thing to do if you’re single in the city. Quogue is surprisingly quick to access fro NYC yet rather under the radar compared to the rest of the Hamptons.

Following Quogue and West Hampton, you have Southampton (which is most associated to fancy houses and old money), then Water Mill and Bridgehampton (perhaps more laid back), then East Hampton, the flashiest of all and a full-on luxury shopping destination. Last on the South Fork, you have quaint little Amagansett with its pretty square and 1960’s houses hidden among pine trees in the dunes (remember when Woody Allen takes Annie Hall and cooks her a lobster dinner..?). And finally Montauk, which used to be a super low key surfer’s spot with cheap and yummy lobster rolls but has become a fief of hipsterness with the opening of the Surf Lodge hotel… Oh, and it’s worth mentioning Sag Harbor too, a very pretty little town on the bay side of the South Fork, which tends to be rather lively all year long.

Upon landing at LGA airport in NYC and renting our car (with Enterprise, which is super customer friendly,  and you clear immigration in Canada, easy peasy), we headed straight to East Hampton and stayed with my dear and old friend Ele aka Eleanor.

WHERE TO GO & WHAT TO DO:

Our routine was straightforward: early wake up, beach after breakfast, back for lunch, more swimming after nap time, and early dinner. repeat the next day. So I can’t talk much about where we went & what we did other than 2 delicious meals that we enjoyed as take aways 1/ La Fondita, a yummy mexican shack on the road between Amagansett and East Hampton, and 2/ Bostwick’s, also on Montauk Highway where I satisfied my craving for lobster roll and clam chowder (i hear they organize amazing clam bakes on the beach, a summer tradition in the hamptons)

However, it’s not too difficult to find good addresses about the Hamptons:
the chic de la chic guide to the Hamptons by Amanda Ross
Gwyneth Paltrow knows a thing or two in terms of chic (but not always cheap) so that’s her Goop guide
And if those above were not enough, this link will get you going.

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ARLES for… the photography festival. It’s every summer and takes over the whole city, inside churches, warehouses, public squares etc. Such a special event, not to be missed. They even organize photography workshops for children. The Fondation Vincent Van Gogh (he loved this city more than any other in France), the Roman arena where they often organize gladiators rendering geared towards children, the Hotel Nord Pinus next door to the very first store of Christian Lacroix (he’s a native of Arles) for a drink late at night, the cobbled-stone streets for a stroll, the Saturday morning market (one of the most famous in the region). And stay tuned for the Frank Gehry-designed Luma art foundation, due to open anytime now.

LA CAMARGUE region for… the wild horses, observing the birds in the Parc Ornithologique du Pont de Gau, visiting a bulls’s farm, the captivating gypsy culture. Spend a day at the beach club La Playa in the town of Saintes Marie de la Mer (it’s the capital of gypsies…but don’t go there the week end of August 15ht when it’s a major pilgrimage destination for gypsies from all over Europe and it gets tremendously crowded!). At La Playa, reserve ahead for a beach bed and buy fish nets on the way to make the kids happy! A Michelin-starred lunch at La Chassagnette (tres delicious but tres $$$) or an equally memorable dinner at legendary Chez Bob.  Or a simple meal at Le Mazet du Vaccares overlooking the Vaccares pond. An afternoon of horseback riding organised by Hotel Cacharel (read here their many tips to visit the region). You can also spend the night there, it seems wonderfully simple. Or at the more upmarket but stylish Mas de La Fouque.

AVIGNON for…a visit of the Palais des Papes where several popes went to live when they were in exile from Rome. A dinner at restaurant La Mirande (still have not been but it’s on my wish list!), a stroll on the famous old bridge and learn the song that every French child knows by heart “sur le Pont d’Avignon, on y danse, on y danse, Sur le Pont d’Avignon, on y danse tous en rond..). Attend a performance during world-famous Avignon Theater festival every July, there are usually some productions in English, or unspoken.

VILLENEUVE-LES-AVIGNON for… the Saturday morning brocante, a haven for treasures to bargain. We found a few chairs and other pieces for the house which I love. Get there early, they start taking things down around 1pm.

L’ISLE SUR LA SORGUE for…the world-class antique and art dealers open all year long, but especially the big fair the week ends of Easter or August 15th. Beware, the dealers are usually closed on Tuesday & Wednesday. My favorites are the ones in the warehouse just as you drive into town, furthest away from the classic antiques dealers. There’s a very nice guinguette for lunch right there. I am also a big fan of dealer Xavier Nicod. Also, rafting with the children, try this one or that one on the Sorgue river. Did you know that people call Isle sur La Sorgue the Venice of Provence? Well, now you know.

LE LUBERON region for …the superb scenery and perched villages, such as Lourmarin (and the pretty cemetery where Albert Camus was buried), Roussillon, Gordes, Lacoste, Bonnieux, Menerbes… Have lunch at La Bastide de Marie where we stayed 10 years ago when Marcelo was just born. The restaurant was a hit and still is, I hear. I also remember how I was worried to bump into our neighbours every morning given how much Marcelo used to cry at night! He was only 3 months old..

CASSIS & LES CALANQUES for … swimming in the pretty blue Mediterannee. Les Calanques are those little bays that you can usually only access by boat or a long hike (not advisable with young children, it’s very rocky and gets very hot). The best thing is to rent a boat for an afternoon in the port of Cassis, it’s pricey but can be shared and is really special. Then finish the day with a bouillabaisse Chez Nino, the most famous place in town. Be careful, there are lots of touristy bad places to eat in Cassis.  To rent a boat, try this one or that one.

MARSEILLES for… the Mucem museum, to eat another bouillabaisse in the vieux Port… and everything else in this fascinating city. I don’t even know where to start, and truth is I do not know this city well enough to talk about it. Yet.

AIX EN PROVENCE for … Cezanne, the old town, the weekly markets, the montagne Sainte Genevieve, the beautiful Chateau La Coste winery and art foundation (more in another post) etc..)

And NIMES & UZES for… the famous bridge Pont du Gard, the beautiful Roman ruins in Nimes, the  charming streets of Uzes, which the NYTimes calls the hidden gem in South of France (competing hard with St Remy!)

The list could go on and on, but at least I stopped at 10. pfff.

ALSO, KEEP AN EYE ON THESE FESTIVALS & THEIR RESPECTIVE AGENDAS:

Roque d’Antheron for classical music in exceptional outdoor settings, July-August
Here for the photography festival in Arles every summer
Orange lyrical festival every July
Avignon theater festival every July
Isle sur la Sorgue international antique dealers fair every Easter & August 15th w/e
Jazz in Eygalieres
the new Lyrical festival in St Remy’s roman ruins
and so many more…

You see, you can’t really go wrong in Provence … unless maybe you end up eating a bad bouillabaisse in a bad touristy restaurant in Cassis. 

This is our little black book. Take it as an evolving draft..

Friends often ask us why we chose St Remy. I am French but not from the South. Truth is, there are many reasons why you could fall in love with Provence. It is incredibly rich in culture, with arts and music festivals all around, especially in summertime. The sky is bright blue most of the year, thanks to the infamous wind called Mistral which blows from the North. The amount of outdoor activities is almost infinite (hiking, horseback riding, biking, rafting, gliding, lazying, eating..). The food is healthily delicious with a lot of local (and organic) produce to be found everywhere including in the colourful markets. And the little town of St Remy is at the heart of this region, and is lively all year long. It is located between the fascinating cities of Marseilles, Arles, Avignon, Isle sur la Sorgue, Nimes, Aix en Provence and many more…making it an ideal base to explore the region. And it’s very easy to access with the airports of Marseilles, Nimes and Avignon nearby, as well as the TGV (fast train) from Paris, and the direct Eurostar from London.

Enough talking…here are my favorite places:

SWEET DREAMS:

If you’re staying for more than a few days and coming with friends & family, you’re better off renting a house. We’ve done our research and our house Mas de la Roubine is the best!! No we’re not biased!! (Ps: we’ve also listed our home here in case anyone’s up for a swap swap. Yes, we’re still travellers at heart).

But if you prefer a hotel:

Sous les Figuiers is walking distance to town. Sweet, well priced and delicious breakfasts.

Mas des Figues is a welcoming agro-tourism / b&b outside town tested by our friends, with a big garden including 1,000 olive trees and more than 4,000 roses.

Le Chateau des Alpilles is the grande dame of St Remy. A small castle with an incredible park and centuries-old platane trees where you can also have dinner.  Fancy but very special.

Le Hameau des Baux is a 15′ drive away in the village of Le Paradou, new and wonderful for families, tastefully decorated, beautiful pool and lots of different accommodations possible.

And if you’re a musician with some recording needs .. or would just like to stay in a property surrounded by one of the biggest classical music collection in the world, check out La Fabrique.

FOR THE TASTEBUDS:

EAT & GO OUT in St Remy

L’Aile ou la Cuisse: For an easy and tasty meal inside town, save room for desserts. 5, Rue de la Commune +33 (0) 4 32 62 00 25

Cafe de la Place: Good Salads & terrace near the merry-go-round. 17 place de la Republique, (+33 4 90 92 02 13)

Gus for seafood and a pretty little terrace on the sidewalk. 31 Boulevard Victor Hugo, +33 (0) 4 90 90 27 61

I Fratelli for simple Italian food (pizza!) and a rooftop terrace. (+33 4 90 20 82 76), near the merry go round

La Roma: I Scream for Ice Cream! right across the merry-go-round.. Easy.

Le Divin The place to be for a mojito and to hang out with the locals. 12 Boulevard Gambetta

Hotel de Tourrel is a beautiful and stylish new hotel with a wine bar, near the church. The German owner is very knowledgeable about local wines. It’s rather for grown ups.

And a tiny bit further away (15’ drive):

Le Bistro du Paradou is an institution, in the nearby village of Le Paradou. You will find as many locals as American tourists. Have a designated driver, the road is tricky! And make sure to specify dietary restrictions as it’s a set (and different menu) every day. Tel +33 04 90 54 32 70.

And Pizza Brun in the pretty village of Maussane-Les-Alpilles where locals and celebrities queue for one of the best pizzas in the Alpilles mountains.

EAT AT HOME:

The produce is so good in Provence that you’ll often eat as well if not better at home with a few simple ingredients. So if you decide to rent a home, here is where we go food shopping. Keep in mind that the weekly market in St Remy is on Wednesday morning and it gets very crowded (830am til 1pm).

Cheesemonger Chez Monique Perhaps the best cheeses you will ever eat and you’ll soon forgive Monique for not being the most friendly shop owner.. 1 Place Joseph Hilaire (04 90 92 32 45)

Patisserie Michel Marshall: Exquisite, no words. 2 Chemin St Joseph, (across from Chez Monique, 04 90 95 03 54)

Wine Merchant: Caves & Domaines Mr Esperza is very knowledgeable and has a great selection. Domaine Hauvette is a favorite and you can’t visit the winery so buy it there! 1 Avenue 19 Mars 1962 (+33 9 65 39 77 87,)

Joel Durand: The M.C. of chocolate. You’ll recognize the fudge machine in his window 3 Boulevard Victor Hugo (a bit after the ice cream parlour on the circling boulevard)

Le Petit Duc: All their treats & biscuits are delicious. Must try Les calissons, the specialty of the region 7 Boulevard Victor Hugo, next door to Joel Durand.

Confiserie Lilamand: This is an institution for sweets, especially their ‘pates de fruits’. 5 Avenue Albert Schweizer, St Remy (you’ll find the shop when you exit the Boulevard Victor Hugo towards Avignon)

Les Patisseries d’Olivier: An unexpected gem in the ZAC de la Gare (not far from supermarket Intermarche). Olivier is famous for his tartes sablees. The one with red fruits is legendary, so are his meringues. (+33 6 24 87 72 86, sauvageauolivier@yahoo.fr)

Le Moulin du Calanquet: a wonderful olive oil mill to visit with the children (on the little road Vieux Chemin d’Arles to St Etienne du Gres). They also have a shop in St Remy.

Bakery Maison Bergese: get the baguette des Alpilles and let the children try the traditional Sacristains for snack time, sweeeet but excellent. Right by the church. Ps: There’s another good bakery by the cheesemonger, with gluten-free breads.

Fishmonger La Poissonerie Saint Remoise: Excellent fresh fish, only open until lunchtime. 22 rue Carnot (04 90 92 04 67). Alternatively, the fish section of Intermarche is also very good.

Butcher: We get our meat at the butcher section of Alpilles Bio (the excellent organic supermarket) but Spar inside the village sells a very good T-Bone steak (cote de boeuf).

Green Grocers: There are two excellent grocers in St Remy (closed on market days)

Le Potager de Manon: right across the church & Le Jardin Paysan on the 2nd roundabout from Intermarche, it has its own parking. They also have a good dairy and cheese selection, and some bread. Open Sundays until 1pm
The Dumont Farm: this is our local organic farm, on Vieux Chemin d’Arles. A lovely couple selling seasonal produce. Ask for the courgettes flowers in season, stuff and bake them easy peasy with goat cheese mixed with garlic and parsley. delicious.

SHOP ‘TIL YOU DROP in ST REMY

La Boutique de Jeanne: We never go to St Remy without paying a visit to Jeanne’s bohemian-chic emporium. A bit unexpected and away from the village, it’s across the street from the excellent supermarket Alpilles-Bio (you’ll see the caravan in front) ZAC de la Gare, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

La Boutique des Jardins: Another unexpected space with treasures from all over India where the owner spends the winter months. Route d’Avignon, St Remy (take the first roundabout after Intermarche, then direction Avignon and it’s shortly after on your left)

Le Bazar Saint-Remois and the kid shop down the road from the same owner. Great for original gifts. 1 Rue de la Commune, Saint-Rémy

Libellule: Gorgeous home wares and lots of pretty gift ideas. 10 Rue Jaume Roux

Maison Marguerite b. : A tasteful selection of simple chic pieces near Place Favier, the prettiest square in town.

Le Comptoir des Alpilles: Well priced contemporary linens, on the town hall square

YOU WON’T GET BORED in St REMY

Learning about flowers and medicinal plants in the wonderful Sentiers de l’Abondance near Eygalieres. The owner Marie speaks fluent English and gives tours of her very provençal property every Wednesday or by appointment. It’s a nice visit to do as a family, the children can run around, learn lots, and everyone finishes in Marie’s home tasting the delicious syrups and natural candies that she makes.

Rock climbing: there are a few climbing walls in the Alpilles in addition to the natural landscape. Organize a half day outing with registered instructor Swan del Corso (+33 6 28 06 13 22 rocalpilles@gmail.com ) from Roc’Alpilles. Suitable for children 8+, with some spectacular descents!

Biking: rent Mountain Bikes from Velo Passion (+33490924943)

Hiking with an experienced instructor, reserve at the Tourism Office

Gliding: from the very small airport of St Remy at the foot of Les Alpilles

Horseback riding: Poney Club Le Rouget over in Maussane is a sweet place for younger ones (Sabine: +33 6 14 80 46 09) or Ecuries des Dalennes where they take horseback riding very seriously. Ask for Marianne (+33 6 11 36 69 02)

Tennis Club St Remy: weekly courses during school holidays, starting 4 yo (Gregory: +33 6 10 56 48 56)

Winery visits & Tastings: 

There are so many in the area…Domaine Dalmeran and Domaine Trevallon (by appointment) on the small road towards St Etienne du Gres. Domaine Milan makes organic wine, near Mas de l’Amarine, Chateau Romanin is the most famous and has tours. Then, you have lots more AOC wineries over in Les Baux, including the famous Mas de La Dame. And if you drive further to Aix en Provence or Chateauneuf du Papes, you’ll open a whole other chapter of wines…

You could ask Jean-Simon from La Tournee du Libraire to give you a tour of the organic wineries in his charming old 404 Peugeot. He speaks English with a french accent.

The Tourism Office of St Remy organizes tours in English on various topics including one about Van Gogh on Saturday mornings. Find it here or pay them a visit in town, they offer tons of advice. They also sell a pass that includes all the important monuments and museums in town for a reduced price.

Musee Estrine: Excellent small art museum in the heart of the village. 8 rue Lucien Estrine

Musee des Alpilles: Interesting museum about the cultural and natural landscape of the area

Archeological site of Glanum (with a festival early July), Route des Baux de Provence, St Rémy

The Cloister of Saint Paul Mausole: Avenue Dr Edgar Leroy, St Rémy 04 90 92 77 00

Carrieres de Lumieres: Great with children, an art show of light and sound around different themes of art (this year t’s Chagall) in an unusual space near the castle of Les Baux.

Pretty villages nearby: Les Baux de Provence (stunning medieval castle, go at sunset to avoid the crowds), Eygalieres (weekly market is Friday am), Maussane-les-Alpilles, Mouries and so many more!

GOOD TO KNOW .. LINKS TO KEEP:

English-speaking driver: Christophe Lano has a van for up to 8, and can drive you anywhere, including putting together a tour of wineries. He’s also a pilot and can take you on a flight above the Alpilles!

This is another post that I published a while back on St Remy

Vicky Archer’s Provence through the eyes of an Australian in St Remy is always very inspiring.

These reviews about restaurants in Provence are an entertaining read.

Julie Mautner’s blog has an incredible wealth of information.

Et voilà.

The Italians have Tuscany. And we have Provence.

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Every week this past year, I have been eagerly waiting for Courtney’s updates on her (newish) travel blog Somewhere Slower. I have daydreamed about all the places that her family has visited, places we stopped by during our round the world 5 years ago, and new destinations on our wish list… So it was wonderful to catch up, hear all about their adventures, and show them a bit of the Provence that we love.

The children spent countless hours laughing together and doing all sorts of mischievous things, building dens and catching frogs, we had long meals under the vine, we celebrated Lior’s 4th birthday and … we secretly wished that summers last forever. Here are some photos of our homemade Provence party, mine mixed with Courtney’s.

happy four my sweet Lior, may the light shine on you for ever and ever. 

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START THE DAY at Can Rafalet, the cafe with the prettiest terrace overlooking the bay of Es Calo. The menu is nothing crazy but they cover the basics perfectly well: fresh squeezed OJ, toasts with all sorts of savoury toppings such as tortilla (Spanish omelet), ham or plain tomatoes. There’s also a local specialty of a round cake with icing sugar on top which is a hit. The old fisherman’s huts make for the charming view but the prize goes to the incredibly blue waters in front of you. Rafalet is also a small hotel. I have a feeling that some of the rooms must have a killer view.

 

 

this is a cute map that I snapped from CNTraveller. All other photos are my own.

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Thanks to this poem, I have taken some time to look back at all those places where I remember keeping quiet. Some of them remind me of a glimpse in time that stayed with me forever. Some are near home, some very far away. And for some,  I remember drifting away in my thoughts, as if time had completely stopped around me.

So here is the text, and a selection of images from our trips around the world, where and when I remember keeping quiet, and feeling immensely happy. 

Now we will count to twelve
and we will all keep still.

For once on the face of the earth,
let’s not speak in any language;
let’s stop for one second,
and not move our arms so much.

It would be an exotic moment
without rush, without engines;
we would all be together
in a sudden strangeness.

Fisherman in the cold sea
would not harm whales
and the man gathering salt
would look at his hurt hands.

Those who prepare green wars,
wars with gas, wars with fire,
victories with no survivors,
would put on clean clothes
and walk about with their brothers
in the shade, doing nothing.

What I want should not be confused
with total inactivity.
Life is what it is about;
I want no truck with death.

If we were not so single-minded
about keeping our lives moving,
and for once could do nothing,
perhaps a huge silence
might interrupt this sadness
of never understanding ourselves
and of threatening ourselves with death.
Perhaps the earth can teach us
as when everything seems dead
and later proves to be alive.

Now I’ll count up to twelve
and you keep quiet and I will go.

Pablo Neruda — from Extravagaria (1974)

the Hinterlands of Byron Bay, Australia, early morning – the view from our cottage after the children woke us up.

Outside our little cottage in Bangalow, near Byron Bay Australia

Uganda, at dawn, on our way to meet the gorillas

keeping very quiet in the Serengeti, Tanzania

Stillness as the boats passed underneath us, on the Pont des Amours in Paris

Sunset cruise on the Irradawy river in Burma

Bonfire in the Atacama desert, in Chile

After a yoga class on the beach in Fiji, on Savusavu island

Waking up in Sorrento with this view over the Vesuvio

On the road to the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa

Marcelo asleep in his bedouin tent in the Omani desert

At a monastery in Bhutan, somewhere in the Himalaya

a silent lunch ceremony high up in the Himalayas, Bhutan

Listening to the birds in Ubatuba, Brazil

watching the ships go by on the Bosphorus, Istanbul

waiting for the full moon to rise over the Atacama desert, Chile

Marcelo and Amalya deep asleep, sharing a bed in Mallorca, Spain

seating by the window in the TGV from Avignon to Paris, France

morning walk in Primrose Hill, London

Lior in the bullet train from Osaka to Naoshima, Japan

Marcelo at the Hiroshima memorial, Japan

Amalya alone with Marlene Dumas at the Tate Modern, London

Ps: A few good reads

I found a bilingual edition English / Spanish of Extravagaria here. I think that Marcelo (he’s 10) will enjoy The Dreamer by Pam Ryan Munoz, re-telling the story of Pablo Neruda with some fictional elements and poetry. And Pablo Neruda, Poet of the People for Amalya who always enjoys drafting poems in her little notebook. Lior will have to wait a bit, keeping quiet hopefully.

Amalya and I just came back from a long week end of Flamenco extravaganza in Sevilla. It was a treat for her 7th birthday, and what a special trip that was for the two of us! She’s been into flamenco since she was four years old when a sweet friend gave her a beautiful flamenco dress, which led to wanting a flamenco party for her 5th birthday, and taking flamenco classes since she turned 6th. Our three days went a bit like this:

FRIDAY / VIERNES:

We landed around 8pm, on time for a few tapas and a good night sleep at Corral del Rey. This hotel was perfect, not too small not too big, and tastefully decorated with easy going art and antiques. It’s located on a tiny street that our taxi could not even enter, a few minutes walk from picture-perfect Santa Cruz (the old jewish neighbourhood). The location in the old part of town meant that we could stop by as often as needed to have a little rest or pick up something that we forgot. We got upgraded to one of the larger rooms on the top floor, and received tons of smiles and good advice from Rocio and Marina, the lovely girls at the front desk.

SATURDAY / SABADO:

We spent a good part of the morning trying on flamenco dresses at Angela y Adela. This turned out to be the highlight of our trip. We visited their workshop where the seamstresses make beautiful traditional dresses with a vintage twist. They’re all unique pieces designed by Angela and one dress can take up to several weeks to be made. Then Amalya got to play the part in the hands of Angela’s daughter with makeup and all. She was in heaven. We left with that pair of long earrings, which I told Amalya she can only wear after she turns…16, and some professional Roberto Garrudo tap shoes to make our neighbours very happy back home.

Disclaimer: you might think that I look slightly ridiculous on the photo above and that’s OK!! Because Amalya loved it!!

After some pizzas around the corner from the hotel, we spent the afternoon visiting the city. We started at the Church of San Salvador because (tip #1) you can buy a ticket there that includes the visit of the cathedral, and bypass the queues. Did you know (tip #2) that the famous cathedral of Sevilla is the third largest in the world after the Vatican, and St Paul’s in London? . To be honest, we did not have the energy to visit the whole place so we concentrated on climbing the 36 floors of the tower. It’s not as bad as it sounds because there are no steps involved, it’s a flat spiral and the floors are not too high. Back down, we went on the obligatory horse carriage tour of the city (Eur45 for 45min of smiles) and it gave us a nice overview of the old town, the riverside and the big Maria Luisa park. (tip #3): Did you know that a Star Wars 2 scene was shot right on Plaza de España in Sevilla? Marcelo certainly recognised it when we emailed him the photo below.

Ps: does anyone have a tip to get tickets in advance for the Alcazar and bypass the enormous queues? We never got a chance to visit it.

You’d think we’d go to bed after all this …but no. We had a 6pm Flamenco lesson booked at the Museum of Flamenco, followed by a show there from 7 til 8pm. I was looking forward to the class but it turned out to be quite a disappointment because it took place in an open room where all the visitors of the museum stood by to watch us. It was terribly embarrassing for me although Amalya did not mind. So I pretended that I needed to film the lesson to avoid the ridicule… a perfect example of a conscious adult vs a carefree child. The show was beautiful, well balanced between men and women dancing, singing and guitar playing, high quality, in a lively and pretty setting, and well priced. I’d highly recommend it even though it was mostly Japanese and French tourists seating around us.

I convinced Amalya to go for a bite before bedtime. The hotel had booked Pinton (picture below), for a modern take on tapas, such as the Bloody Gazpacho served in a glass – I got scared that there really was vodka in it after Amalya tried it. I had to call the waiter to ask and got the look in return. Pinton is stylish, the seating on the terrace is very entertaining, but the waiters had a bit too much attitude. I prefer my tapas in old traditional bars, standing like you should, shouting your order over the counter. This list of where to eat in Sevilla can come in handy. We bumped into Lili from the popular French blog Ma-Recreation, having dinner with her daughter the same age as Amalya, so we headed for an ice cream all together, and called it a night. Lili wrote about her day in Sevilla here.

SUNDAY / DOMINGO:

Domingo was another adventure. We had booked a private bike tour of the city through the hotel. I naively thought that Amalya could ride her own bicycle but we all agreed it was going to be a bit risky, and especially too tiring. So I took her behind me. We started in the atmospheric Santa Clara park where the locals go for a stroll. We admired all the little boys and girls dressed in their best Sunday outfits, coming back from church. We stopped for photos at Plaza de España. We peaked at the palace/ luxury hotel Alphonso XIII, went up along the river via the Gold Tower (Torre de Oro). We stopped at the Plaza de Toros, aka the bullfighting ring, but it was not appealing to Amalya who is now a vegetarian. The souvenir shop had cute things for the boys back home though.

Amalya had an interesting question on the concept of corridas: is the bull allowed to kill the toreador since the toreador has full discretion to kill the bull? I answered Yes, but No…. We discovered the Triana district across the river, which is the old gypsy neighbourhood where Flamenco started centuries ago. And we finished in Santa Cruz, camera loaded with photos and me craving for a paella – to Amalya’s despair. She would have chosen pizza again if she could..

After a delicious lunch on the terrace of Restaurante Modesto (it carries its name perfectly), we played some Uno, did some drawings, and headed back to the hotel for a little siesta. Because we had another night of Flamenco extravaganza ahead..

In lieu of dinner, Amalya and I indulged in chocolate con churros at the end of the afternoon. Ok, truth is: I indulged in chocolate con churros and she indulged in chocolate con chips, possibly the ugliest food combination you could imagine but hey…it was her week end. Our tour guide had shown us where the best churreria was: Los Especiales, right by the Triana bridge. So we did as locals do late on a sunny Sunday afternoon. And from there, it was a short taxi ride to Los Gallos in Santa Cruz, one of the oldest tablao in town.

Tablaos are the flamenco clubs where musicians and dancers perform intimately. I had booked in advance for the 8:30pm show and we sat upstairs for a better view. It was ideal because Amalya was able to lie down on the couch and still see the stage. She loved it even more than the Saturday night show, but if I had to choose between both, I’d say that the performance at Museo del Flamenco was better quality, better priced and also better timing for a child.

MONDAY / LUNES:

After our last breakfast at Corral del Rey seating on the rooftop terrace, we headed back for the third time to the park of Santa Clara because mademoiselle really wanted to go on a boat trip. For Eur5, I rented one of the little boat and I paddled, guided by my co-pilot. I bought Amalya a flamenco skirt and a pretty shawl at one of the tourist stands because, guess what, all the flamenco outfits that we came across in real shops in the city costed an arm and a leg. They take their flamenco very seriously in Sevilla. Amalya chose a few wooden fans for her school teacher and for her good friends back home.

We quickly ordered some delicious tapas at the counter of Bar Estrella, near the hotel on Calle Estrella, before heading to the airport for our Ryanair flight back home. And Amalya fell asleep in my arms with the prettiest of smiles…

And for the background: I lived in Madrid for a year when I was a student (had the time of my life!), and two of my roommates were flamenco dancers. They introduced me to this beautiful artform. Jose was from Sevilla and ended up being part of the Ballet Nacional de España. Carolina, who was from Malta, was training to become a flamenco teacher. I have been listening to Camaron de la Isla and Paco de Lucia ever since…

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The hotel is located on the Northern coast of Oman, an easy 2hours drive from Dubai airport. Now, I am usually not a fan of all-inclusive resorts, I have written about my thoughts here before. They often bring to mind impersonal service, generic design and noisy gym classes in a banana-shaped swimming pool. A friend even told me “oh you’re not going to talk about this resort on BozAround, are you? You must stick to writing about the road less travelled!” But hey, once in a while, it’s good to relax, be told where to play and what to eat. And Zighy Bay, set on a remote bay in the Musandan Peninsula and hidden by mountainous desert all around, is far from being on a road much traveled.

above is the spa, and below is The March of the Penguins screening in the outdoor cinema, popcorn included

Ziggy Bay Six Senses is stunning, calming, and a perfect balance for families who want to have it all but sometimes want to do nothing at all. The list of activities available is very long and of really high quality.  I went paragliding…Yes, and I have a proof with the photos below!! The scuba diving is supposed to be stunning, yoga, hiking, kayaking, mountain biking, rock climbing, massage (is that an activity?!), yet one could also decide to do nothing at all and rest by the beach or in the villa. The hotel is only composed of (very) private villas and they all come with their own small swimming pools.

You are encouraged to go around the resort barefoot or by bicycle, and to live slow. Just what the doctor prescribed…

these are pictures of the resort that I took while up in the air paragliding (ok, ok..in tandem with an instructor)

The hotel was originally opened by the couple behind the Six Senses group. Their motto is eco-mindedness and slow living in stunning locations. We had spent a few days at Zighy Bay in 2011, on our way to Muscat and the sand dunes of the Wahiba Desert, which I wrote about here. But we had felt that the service and food were not really on par with the (high) bill back then. Clearly, it was a challenge to establish a luxury hotel in such a remote location. You have to drive on a long windy road up and then down a mountain, only accessible to 4×4 (Zighy Bay will arrange transport back and forth from Dubai airport, and administrative papers for the crosspoint at the border). They now have the financial support of a local Omani group and have stepped up the quality of their offerings a huge deal. They softened the bill for us so we would give it another try, and we could not have wished for a more relaxing Easter break.

We took a day trip with a guide, had a stunning sunset picnic on the edge of the mountains. We heard stories about how the rain turns into flooding in a matter of minutes when the water enters the gorges between the mountains. The children asked lots of questions about Pakistani man who has been living all alone for 45 years in the mountains, with no water and electricity, going down to the village with his donkey once a week to stock on provisions.  We also heard how he bottle-feeds his baby lambs and looks after the stone house of an Omani family.

And we learnt that close to 80% of the population in Oman is not Omani, but workforce brought in from countries such as Sri Lanka, Pakistan, India who sometimes lives in secondary homes of Omani families so that those homes are not lost to the government. The law is such that those houses can be taken away by the government if no-one occupies them, and it would be a major dishonour for an Omani family to lose properties.

The design of the resort is inspired by the stone houses that dot the mountains all around. The villas are quite understated, made of wood and stones, with a color palette of warm browns, cheerful oranges and calming beige.

Of course, there’s a kids club at Zighy Bay (children less than 4 need to be accompanied, which is a bit annoying because you have to pay for the services of a babysitter or tag along). Our children felt free to go in and out as they pleased and the program of activities was fun and educational. Amalya loved the Arabic classes in the morning, and the henna sessions. Marcelo enjoyed the crab race and the football matches in the sand. And Lior still talks about the massive Easter Bunny who landed on the beach with his hands full of chocolates.

This is a photo with super sweet Roda from the Kids Club, as we said goodbye on the last day.

And it’s not only clients who seem happy to stay at Zighy Bay. We heard spontaneous comments from the staff about how they all enjoy working there, how they are paid well above average and feel privileged to be part of the team. This was proof to me that Zighy Bay has achieved a rare balance between sustainability, excellent hospitality, business and style. Let’s keep fingers crossed that it stays as such as their business grows. Inch’allah.

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During a summer internship in Caracas (that’s a whole other blog post!), I remember meeting a beautiful Venezuelan woman – a testament to the country’s many miss world.  She told me how she had been involved in a romantic relationship with Che Guevara in her youth, growing up on the island with her diplomatic father. I was already fascinated by the story of Cuba, and the many myths surrounding its history. This encounter sparked a thrill to explore it. I found 2 travel companions and we bought a roundtrip ticket Caracas-Curacao-Havana, just because it was cheaper using that route and it gave us a chance to spend a night in Curaçao and drink some…curaçao.

We stayed in La Habana for 4 days, what an impression it made on me! It was the summer of 1995 and Cuba was very much closed to Western tourists. Cubans were not keen to interact openly with foreigners for fear of being spied on. Guest-houses were forbidden. Privately-owned restaurants, called paladar (they had existed for years illegally) had just been allowed to open to customers selectively. They were all the rage among the few foreign tourists as they gave us a rare chance to interact with the locals behind curtains.

A few photos that I digged from my archives. There were no digital cameras back then, and that’s all I have left…

It’s in one of those paladares that I remember eating turtle. To this day, I regret the bite. I am not sure what were the Cuban rules about hunting endangered species, and regardless, I was a bit stupid to fall in the trap of trying out something I knew was illegal to eat elsewhere.  But it does say something about life in Cuba back then. Everything was done behind closed doors. And the locals would do anything they could to earn hard cash, i.e. dollars. Similarly, I don’t remember how we came across the friendly couple who hosted us in their apartment in La Habana Vieja, but I do recall that he was a dancer, and they told us to keep it low if asked where we were staying. The taxis we took would never leave us in front of our house, we had to ask them to stop around the corner, just in case.

I loved my days in La Habana, I loved doing all sorts of things I was not supposed to. I was just twenty.

I was mesmerised by the atmosphere, the salsa and rumba playing on old radios, the faded colours of the decaying buildings, the graffiti displaying Hasta La Victoria Siempre, the old American cars of course. I felt I was privileged to have managed to come early to the party.

These are some of the books that I bought in front of the cathedral. I was fascinated by the life of Che Guevara. I’ve kept the postcard in my special drawer all these years!

One day, we took a day trip to a sleepy fishing village called Cojimar, on the northern coast. We had heard of a delicious fish restaurant there, La Teraza. And what a special place it was! Ernest Hemingway’s presence could be felt everywhere, and he was one my favorite authors. Que suerte. Hemingway was featured on the many black and white photos adorning the walls and his soul filled the restaurant. We had a feast in that same room where he had many drinks and meals with Gregorio Fuentes, the first mate of his boat Pilar, and with the local fishermen of Cojimar. We might have been  the only customers that day and after a long meal and a few mojitos, our waiter told us that Gregorio Fuentes was actually still alive, smoking cigars quietly in his little house down the road. We could not believe our ears. The old man. From the Old Man and the Sea. We walked to his house and knocked at the door, he greeted us with ease and class. I recall that he was really old and we chatted with him for a bit. The room was obscure, perhaps to keep it cool. The shutters were closed and he was seating in an armchair, exchanging a few words with a big sonrisa. This moment stayed with me ever since.

I stumbled upon this very pretty sketch above when researching for this post (I could not remember the name of the fisherman village and the restaurant!). The artist is James Richards. Sadly, it seems that La Teraza has become quite  a tourist-trap too.

There’s something else that I remember from that trip, and it’s not nearly as romantic. One night, we heard of a salsa concert in one of the big hotels on the Varadero, the sea front of La Habana. It was crowded, loud and sweaty-smelling. It was lots of fun and I danced and danced to the sound of the live band, but then I started understanding the dynamics. Many young Cuban women were out for the night in the hope of bringing some dollars home after meeting the gringos. It broke my heart, they were my age, perhaps even younger.

And that is the other side of La Habana as I remember it. The queue in front of the only supermarket supplying basic goods from abroad, accessible only to those able to make some dollars, the taxi drivers, the paladar owners, the waiters in the fancy big hotels, the girls at the salsa party.  On one hand, the fact that everything was pristine, untouched by the Western world, picture-perfect. No ATMs, just dirty peso bills. No McDonalds, just Moros y Cristianos (rice & black beans). Education and health care for everyone! And on the other hand, that craving for dollars, for freedom of speech, for pencils to draw with, because the most basic things were so hard to find.

I went back to Cuba a few years later. I was working and living in NYC then and the embargo with the US was still strictly enforced. So we travelled via Jamaica with a girlfriend. It was only 5 years later but I noticed slight changes. Or maybe my eye had become more used to travel? I remember that some teenagers were wearing Tommy Hilfiger tee shirts and asking us if we had spare clothes with the Ralph Lauren logo on. Oh why, but why, I asked them. They were not asking us for pencils anymore, they were asking us for branded clothes and dollars.

In the following years, I started hearing about the European smarty-pants who’d go partying in La Habana for their stag nights (Oh why, but why, I asked myself). I started hearing how Spanish and Italian hotel chains were opening left and right – and I wondered if their beaches were still forbidden to locals, unless they’d be accompanied by a foreigner. I started hearing how La Bodeguita del Medio, the famous bar where Hemingway liked to hang out, had become a tourist trap.  (Check this out: La Bodeguita has a franchise business now. Who’s up for opening La Bodeguita in Soho?!?). How Floridita’s daiquiri had become really overpriced..  And I thought to myself: I am glad I went there early to see it all.

I wonder what Hemingway would think of Cuba today.

Above, some vintage books that I bought at the flea market near the cathedral, including a copy of A Farewell to Arms in Spanish.

Further reads & watch:

Jayne Gorman’s Colours of Cuba

This comprehensive guide about Cuba with Kids

On Hemingway’s trails in Cuba

The unforgettable movie Before Night Falls based on the autobiography of Cuban poet Reinaldo Arenas. And The Motorcycle Diaries, for a shortcut on Che Guevara’s biography.

This short but visually enlightening documentary about a skater in today’s Havana.

And The Old Man and the Sea, of course, by Ernest Hemingway. Here is an excerpt, from the very end of the book:

That afternoon there was a party of tourists at the Terrace (La Terraza) and looking down in the water among the empty beer cans and dead barracudas a woman saw a great long white spine with a huge tail at the end that lifted and swung with the tide while the east wind blew a heavy steady sea outside the entrance to the harbour.

‘What’s that?’ she asked a waiter and pointed to the long backbone of the great fish that was now just garbage waiting to go out with the tide.

‘Tiburon,’ the waiter said, ‘Eshark.’ he was meaning to explain what had happened.

‘ I didn’t know sharks had such handsome, beautiful formed tails.’

‘I didn’t either,’ her male companion said.

Up the road, in his shack, the old man was sleeping again. He was still sleeping on his face and the boy was sitting by him watching him. The old man was dreaming about the lions.

This is my old copy of the Old Man and the Sea. I’ve treasured it all these years and was so happy when Marcelo read it recently, and enjoyed it.

Ps: I’ve lost contact with my two traveling companions on this first epic Cuban trip.  We had fun, and also enjoyed sharing this eye-opening experience. None of the social networks existed back then (now, I really do sound old!!) and I barely remember their names. But hey, guys, if you read this one day, drop me a line and let’s get together for a mojito!

Have you been to Cuba recently? Will you say a few words about it?

x vanessa

We don’t have a particular favorite as we like to try out new places. Typical me, Ceki will say. In his heart, I know he wishes we’d stick to the same mountains every year, returning to the same slopes, but I usually win on that front….which allows me to share 3 very different places with you today. We’ve tried and enjoyed all of them.

They all have in common to be owned by families with young children. Therefore, the owners know a thing or two about making you feel at home. They also have in common to lovingly care for every little details and this is key in hospitality. And they are all beautifully decorated, with their own distinctive style.

1. MAISON DE FAMILLE LES CINQ FRERES IN VAL D’ISERE, FRENCH ALPS

Literally meaning “Family Home of the Five Brothers”, this hotel has been in the Mattis family for over 50 years. The Mattis are some of the very first who settled in the valley of Val d’Isere, helping build its reputation as a world-class ski resort. Some in the family own ski shops, others own restaurants. Two of the cousins recently joined forces to give a new life to a very old house that belonged to their grand-parents. The story says that the five brothers were even born in that house.

Cousins Valérie and Audrey have young children of their own and know well what it takes to make a family happy during a ski holiday. The children can have early dinner in the restaurant in a lively atmosphere – read: noone will give you the look. You can rent a whole floor, usually there are 2 to 3 rooms per floor, to make it feel private, which is especially convenient if going away with a set of friends or extended family. It feels a bit like renting a chalet, with all the services of a hotel. They are located right in the heart of the village, near the Old Church and walking distance from the ski school ESF (the main one). However, the bonus is that the Mattis family has its own little ski school Stages Mattis and if you wish, you can enroll your children with them in which case they’ll pick them up in the morning, bring them home for lunch all taken care of before continuingg to ski for the rest of the day. The hotel was renovated head to toe and it’s very comfortable. The style is mountain / contemporary without trying too hard.

Some perks of staying at Les Cinq Freres:

You get a 25% discount at the ski shop Mattis Sport (it’s all in the family!). And you’ll get quite a welcoming smile every where you go when mentioning that you are staying there, because everyone knows them. They’ll help you rent any baby material such as stroller for the snow, baby bottle warmer etc.. They’ll also help you find (English-speaking) babysitters or you can us this agency that I came across. it seemed very professional.

Their fancy sister (“brother”!!) property the Tsanteleina is next door and has a michelin-starred restaurant and a beautiful gym and pool that can be used discreetly for the Cinq Freres guests. And here are a few spots that we enjoyed for a meal outside the hotel:

For dinner:

Take the children to a real farm for dinner! La Ferme de l’Adroit is a short drive away (frequent shuttles) in Le Fornet. You’ll have a fondue (or any other savoyard dishes) tete a tete with the cows – literally. It’s quite fun and delicious. And guess what is the name of the owner…Helene Mattis!! It’s also great to have a dinner at l’Arolay in a small hamlet called le Fornet. You feel deep deep in the Alps there. Typical, casual and deliciously friendly. La Taverne d’Alsace is an institution in the village, with lots of black and white photos on the wall, again better to reserve.

At lunch time during the ski day:

In the village of Val d’Isere, French people flock to La Grande Ours. Again, it’s deliciously casual but best to reserve during the busy time of school holidays. There’s the fancy Brussels hotel and its (very expensive) restaurant with a big sunny terrace where English-speakers prefer to hang around.

On the slopes, make sure to stop for a late and long lunch at L’edelweiss. It’s our favorite place after a long day of skiing. It’s a bit hidden in the mountain and you will likely miss it the first time you go, but it’s worth it! Especially if you can secure a table by the fireplace (reserve!). Othrerwise, everyone knows and goes to La Folie Douce (but not sure with young children as its a party spot on the slopes!) and its next door upscale restaurant LA Fruitiere. It’s delicious and very pretty but quite pricey (like many places in Val d’isere if you dont pay attention). And more casual, La Tete de Solaise and Les Clochetons. I believe in the utmost importance of eating good food in the mountain. First because the produce is very good, although it’s a lof of dairy and meat (cows sheeps cows!) but also because you spend a lot of calories with the cold and the sport so you might as well indulge with yummy dishes and stinky cheese.

2. CHALET-HOTEL LA CROIX FRY IN MANIGOD, NEAR LA CLUSAZ, FRENCH ALPS

This is where we went this year and we never left the hotel apart for skiing during the day! Manigod is a very charming Haute-Savoie little hamlet where traditions are very important and life does not revolve around ski resorts. It’s all about cheese-making (it’s reblochon land! Marcelo was in heaven!) and wooden furniture making in particular.

A major advantage is that the hotel is a very easy reach from Geneva Airport (1h15 drive, you won’t need a car – book the airport ride with Skiiddygonzalez). It’s like a big chalet where children go about in their slippers, but it has a world-class restaurant at the same time, making the parents very (very!) happy. The downside is that you come home with toned muscles (maybe) very much hidden under a little (or big!) belly if you have not been able to say No to the chef (but how could you..). Within a few days, you call everyone by their first name. There is Mireille in the reception, Francois who drives the shuttle, Pierre in the restaurant, Sylvie who gives the massages, Isabel who runs the hotel and her brother Eric who has the gold fingers in the kitchen. Oh, and you hear a lot about Marie-Ange, their mother, who is known all over the valley but sadly passed away a few years ago, The hotel has been in the family since 1939, and is decorated with authentic mountain charm straight out of a postcard. The ski resort feels very quaint with lots of forests around and children and slopes that are relatively easy. Hoewver, the minute you step out into La Clusaz (the two resorts are connected), you have access to world-class slopes and lots of km of great ski. See this article for more on the slopes.

What made our trip was also the wonderful ski instructor from ski school ESF, his name is Clement Ripoli and he was incredibly patient and kind. He was also a great inspiration as he is an enthusiast sportsman with quite a few exploits under his belt, such as climbing 5 times to the top of Mont Blanc, or arriving number 7 in the extreme Ultra-Trail run: 140km in a go. I didn’t even know that human kind was able to do things like this!!!!  (ripoll.clement1@gmail.com)

Oh, and the children had a great afternoon imagining they were living in the wild of the mountains, building an igloo and watching bird life with Cathy (cathy.cohendet@wanadoo.fr) who takes groups around every Wednesday afternoon. They came back exhausted and with lots of stories to tell.

You can also rent one of their chalet nearby and they will deliver breakfast and dinner if you wish so. A great alternative.

3. HAUS HIRT NEAR SALZBURG, AUSTRIA

I have already mentioned this very special place here, but as we went again last year I thought I’d mention it today. Haus Hirt is such a special place. Evelyn and her architect husband have turned their property into a hotspot for art and design in the mountains, with a wonderful family feel. They have a young son themselves and it’s quite rare to find a place that can blend in all those qualities at once i.e. family, art + design, ski. Since I wrote about it the first time, they have added a few modern chalets directly opposite the hotel. That’s a good option if you prefer to have your own privacy, although you’d miss on the easy ‘keep your slippers on for dinner’ feel if you decide to eat in the hotel.

Haus Hirt organised a memorable afternoon in the wild, and we got to get close to wild deers. It was so so special and made a huge imprint on all of us. Hundreds of bambi and their grown ups came close to us to feed, before they returned to the forest. We learnt a lot about their way of leaving, it was magic. We also had such a fun evening at the old Bellevue Alm restaurant up in the mountain. You need to take a single ski lift from the 1970’s, in the dark and you can come back sledding if you wish. It’s hilarious, the atmosphere is very casual, the waiters are dressed in traditional outfit, they sing the traditional Austrian songs, and it’s great fun.

All of this reminds me another post that I wrote a couple years back about Avoriaz, another under-the-radar French ski resort whose star is rising. Read here for more.

1 – Feeling the pain of The Long Road to Freedom on Robben Island: 

The children had been learning about Nelson Mandela at school and I was looking forward to tie in our trip with their learnings. We were all quite emotional to spend the day where he and many others were imprisoned for so many years but I must say Amalya is the one who took the visit the most at heart, learning and remembering every fact, asking questions and jotting down her notes for a presentation that she then made at school.

Robben island is in the bay of Cape Town, 30 min by boat from the harbour yet so far away from the city. It is the staging for the prison where Nelson Mandela and another 3,000 men, mostly political prisoners, spent years in confinement and hard labor under Apartheid. Our afternoon there was both hugely informative and emotional.

Amalya’s facts and school presentation after our visit

The tour is given by former political prisoners, giving it the feeling that you are living history. You need to buy tickets online well in advance, the boat leaves 3 times a day from the Waterfront of Cape Town, and plan on spending about 4hours all together, with a lot of walking (we had Lior in a backpack but strollers are easy too) and a pleasant tour bus around the island.

We learnt how the prisoners were only allowed to receive a letter every 6 months from their loved ones, and most of the time they were censured and edited by the guards.  We also heard how the lime quarry where the political prisoners were forced into hard labor became a place of hope as they would find ways to discuss their quest for freedom while working under harsh conditions.

2 – Touring Babylonstoren and the wine country around Stellenbosch

It’d be an overstatement to say that we went wine tasting with the three children in the back of the car. The only wines that we really tasted (and tasted. and tasted again) were the delicious reds, whites and rose from Babylonstoren, where we got lucky to spend two blissful nights. Babylonstoren is an exceptional place that you can also visit just for the day. It’s one of the oldest Cape Dutch farm and someone with very good taste, good brains and probably lots of money has reconverted it into a stunning sustainable farm/hotel. They produce their own organic food and wine and ship their olive oil worldwide, there’s a set of exceptional cottages to rent and two renowned restaurants including a greenhouse-turned-yummy lunch place for walk-ins. When you stay for the night, you can pick up any fruit, vegetable or herbs from the estate and cook them in your own kitchen, then have a meal surrounded by beautiful scenery.

There’s a beautiful swimming pool tucked away behind tall bambous, a spa to escape from it all, bicycles to rent for children and parents. Marcelo, Amalya and Lior loved collecting fresh eggs from the hens in the early morning, and having them for breakfast. They also made their own focaccia bread in the chef’s kitchen. And we all enjoyed canoeing on the pretty lake nearby, watching the sunset.

A little disclaimer: we stayed at Babylonstoren on very generous terms but my enthusiasm would be entirely the same regardless.

3 – Driving to the tip of Africa, the Cape of Good Hope

From the center of the city, it’s about a 2h30 drive all the way down to the Cape of Good Hope, the most southern point in the African continent. And what a stunning drive! When leaving Cape Town, you’re better off taking the road along Chapman’s peak for the best views (make sure the peak is open as it is unsuitable on strong wind days) otherwise it’s a faster ride if you cross via Muizenberg beach. And plan on spending quite a bit of time in the car! I’d suggest you pack a lunch as Cape Point is located inside a big natural park where there is absolutely nothing but natural beauty (and a very crowded cafe with obligatory toilet break near the lighthouse). We picked up sandwiches right after Simon’s town, and also packed beach towels and bathing suits for the day. There’s always a beach to stop and play.

4 – Paying a visit to a colony of African penguins

Ok, this could have been done the same day as when visiting Cape Point, but it would have made for a very long day and we did not mind driving twice along the coast. Boulder’s beach, where the famous African penguins congregate all year is truly a surprise. When you’re on the road, you’d never guess that thousands of cute penguins have chosen this very particular spot to mingle and pose for photos. I’m still regretting that we did not wake up Lior who stayed sleeping in the car, on the parking lot with Ceki, while I took Marcelo and Amalya to the protected area. It’s worth paying the small fee to enter the area as you will see many more penguins than on the public beach! Here’s the link to Simon’s town.

5- Enjoying a Sunday family lunch at Steenberg Farm

About 1h drive from the center of CT is Steenberg Farm, another wine making estate with a delicious restaurant. Given the current exchange rate hugely in favour of US$ and £, Bistro 1682 was a very special meal indeed, perfect for a family Sunday lunch with no tourists in sight.

All in all, we worried we might be bored with 10 days in Cape Town but between the day trips and the citycation, we had a rather busy agenda.

Our trip was a combination of stunning landscapes + learning about the dramatic history of this country who lived through racial segregation until not long ago (Apartheid only ended in 1994). It gave us opportunities to discuss with the children how low humanity can get and how one must always fight for freedom.

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It was the children’s first time in Africa, and they were excited at this selling line. However, there’s one thing that we had not fully anticipated. You do not really feel like you are in Africa in Cape Town, at least the Black Africa that I have known and loved after visiting countries like Zimbabwe, Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda. This was, I admit, a naive and poorly-thought expectation. Cape Town is a modern and very westernised city, and mostly white (at least at first sight). Our friends explained that the lack of mixed skin colours is the sad result of years of apartheid and the fact that the extreme geography (mountains and coast line) of the city prevented the mixture even after the end of apartheid.

I am breaking our stay into two posts. Here I talk about what we enjoyed in Cape Town. And a post will follow about all the day trips / short trips that we took within a 2h drive.

Our base was an ultra charming bungalow on Clifton’s 4th beach that we rented from former Elle Decoration editor Kerryn Fischer. Kerryn now runs the editorial content agency Frank Features, and you can see photos of her beautiful beach pad here. Kerryn had prepared a list of what do to / where to go and we simply followed her recommendations and lived like Capetonians for 10days, going around with our rental car, getting pizzas at the local restaurant and walking down to the beach for sunset.

I’M SO HUNGRY

• Roundhouse Restaurant: this was one of our favourite places to hang out for a big breakfast. Wooden tables are casually (chic) set on the grass, high up above Clifton beach with a view to die for. It’s a bit hidden in the woods as you drive up towards Table Mountain so keep an eye for the road sign. It’s best to reserve (as everything in CT during December!) but we never did, and always found a solution.
• Willoughby’s, in the waterfront: ok, this is a real locals place! it’s inside a mall (a shopping mall! horror!), there’s no natural light, you queue to get a table. And it’s great!! We ate the freshest fish at the best prices!! All sorts of dishes on the long menu, but the sushi are particularly delicious. We had a great meal on our last night in town, followed by a ride on the big wheel at midnight (crazy! with 3 young children! that’s what vacations are for..)
• The Saturday morning farmers market at The Old Biscuit Mill: there are over 100 specialty traders selling their produce and handicrafts every saturday morning (starting at 9am, get there early as it gets crowded) and you get to sample delicious and creative food that you can then eat at one of the long communal table. Another locals’ gem!

• The Pot-Luck Club: there’s a big foodie scene in Cape Town at the moment, and this restaurant is the star of the current hype. Local chef Luke Dale-Roberts is behind the Pot Luck, and also the Test Kitchen and Gallery in Woodstock. You literally need to book months ahead (crazy! especially as there were at least 1/3 of the tables empty when we went..) but it’s worth it: delicious small-plates, creative dishes but not crazy that you don’t know what you’re eating, and prices defying any London / New York buzz places.
• Loading Bay on Waterkant Street: for one of the best coffee in town and hip style all around. It’s tiny but a nice little stop while visiting the beautiful interior shops all around. You can have lunch there too.
• The Grand Cafe & beach (the one near the Waterfront): everyone talks about this place so we thought we’d check it out for our last lunch. Huge pizza from the fire-oven and feet in the sand, it’s definitely an easy place with the children who can run around barefoot and make as much noise as they want. But it’s a little much to my taste, a mix of hippie-chic Ibiza style (i’ve never been to Ibiza but that’s their selling line!) with crystal chandelier hanging by the wooden bar and fancy cars parked prominently in the entrance.

WHAT DO WE DO NOW?

Going up Table Mountain was definitely the highlight of our stay. We heard of a few courageous families who hiked it up (apparently 3 to 4hours steep up) but we took the cable car and it was an amazing experience in itself. Better to go midday when there are less tourists..or plan to queue for the beautiful sunset views.

• Enjoying the beach: Clifton Beach 4th is the most popular with families. There’s a little cafe right there. And big cold waves.
• Walking around the Waterfront is a bit of a touristy thing but fun at night (especially with a stop for sushi, read above!) with a tour on the big wheel!

• Touring the colourful neighbourhood of Bo-Kaap (not too far from the Waterfront) and learning a bit about its fascinating history.