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Por Que No?

Weekend

Food from Mexico, everything else pure Portland

4635 SE Hawthorne (SE/Hawthorne) ~ 503-954-3138 ~ porquenotacos.com

3524 N Mississippi Ave. (N/Inner) ~ 503-467-4149

Weekends 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

$12-14 (all major cards, no checks)

No place is more Portland than Por Que No. It occupies prime real estate on two “very Portland” streets, Hawthorne and Mississippi. Both locations are quite literally crawling with hipsters. They are bright and colorful and perhaps just “weird” enough to suit our unofficial motto, “Keep Portland Weird.”

It’s also very serious about both food, community and sustainability. The owner got the idea for a taqueria on a trip to Mexico; after opening on N Mississippi in 2005, he created a “bike corral” out front, and in 2010 fulfilled a goal of offering health insurance to employees. He also takes his staff on overnights to Mount Hood and the coast.

A second location opened on Hawthorne in 2009, and according to an article in the Oregonian, the tables are built from salvaged wood, the barstools from used rebar, the bar front and patio fence from reclaimed doors, and the benches straight out of the Hawthorne Theatre.

To all this classic Portland-ness, Portlanders have reacted in two predictable ways: adoration and argument. The former will be apparent if you either pick up any local media outlet or just try to get into the place. You order at the counter and wait for your food at a table, and both of those experiences may last a while.

At brunch, you can order off the regular menu, and there are always specials, but the basic menu is Chilaquiles (tortillas in ranchero sauce with eggs and a side of beans), Huevos Rancheros, Huevos Mexicanos (egg-bean-pico de gallo-cheese cramble with guacamole and chips), and Tamale with Eggs.

As for the argument, I refer you to (as of summer 2010) 316 reviews on Yelp.com, a visit from virtually every blogger in town, and a long, often bitter discussion on PortlandFood.org that ventured into sociology, economics, Mexican culture and the authenticity of their food.

Ah yes, authenticity: this is a big deal with Por Que No, and its detractors. Their website says, “We have traveled from the Pacific Coast of Mexico to the mountains of Oaxaca to share the flavors and the essence of what we found.” They also take an annual food trip to Mexico. And yet a lot of folks say it isn’t “authentic” Mexican. I think that means that either folks ate something in Mexico that wasn’t like Por Que No—the Food Dude at Portlandfoodanddrink.com said it reminded him more of Hermosa Beach than Mexico—or they say it can’t be “authentic” because the place is clean and owned by white people, and the food is fresh, healthy, mildly spiced, and as cheap as a taco truck. (Willamette Week did a story in 2005 with the headline, “The $2.50 Taco”—and now they’re priced at $2.75 to $3.50.)

There’s no reason to think any place could live up to all this discussion, be it pro or con. But if you want a taste of Portland culture and Mexican food, and maybe get into some heated discussion about both, get in line at Por Que No.

Wait: Can get long. Outdoors: Yes. Large groups: No. Coffee: Stumptown. Other drinks: Horchata, seasonal fresh juices, Jarritos soda, Mexican Coke with real sugar, beer and cocktails. Feel-goods: They are all about sustainable and local. Health options: Good vegetarian options. WiFi: No.

Disclaimer: This text hasn’t been edited or fact-checked.

Morning Star Cafe

Old School

A working place downtown

500 SW 3^rd Ave. (Downtown) ~ 503-241-2401 ~ morningstarcafe.com

Daily 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.

$12-14 (all major cards, no checks)

You’re coming off the Morrison Bridge into Downtown, taking the first left you can, onto SW 3^rd Avenue. As you wrap around the corner, you see a big, bright restaurant filled with people, and you ask yourself, “Wait, what’s that?” It’s the Morning Star Café, a downtown staple since 1994, but only recently a place to get breakfast.

It’s funny that most Portlanders don’t seem to know about the place, even thought it’s been serving breakfast since 2009. I have a theory: the Morning Star isn’t an old-line place like Bijou or Mother’s, and it isn’t fancy or cutting-edge like Fenouil, and it isn’t hipsterlicious like Byways. It’s just a friendly, basic restaurant in the middle of town.

And when I say “the middle of town,” I mean the historic core of Portland. Five blocks of 3^rd Avenue contains seven buildings on the National Register of Historic Places. Morning Star is in the lobby of the 1902 Postal Building, which was put on the Register in 1978. From a table facing 3^rd Avenue, you can see across the street to the 1891 Dekum Building, named for a German immigrant who opened Portland’s first candy store in 1853. In the 1890s, that building (built entirely of Oregon materials) was Portland’s City Hall, and more recently it housed Weiden and Kennedy, creators of Nike’s “Just Do It” campaign. Next to it is the Hamilton Building, built in 1893 and named for Hamilton Corbett, son of a very famous Portland family. It was the first building in Portland designed in the Classical Revival style. (Thanks to Wikipedia, by the way)

I tell you all this because I want you to remember that Portland is a historic town, and at times it feels like the crowded, bustling metropolis that it is. And such places need solid restaurants like the Morning Star. At breakfast and lunch it serves a combination of tourists, office workers, and folks coming downtown for some weekend event. The décor is even built on gears to continue the working theme. It’s a big, open space with huge windows looking out onto the busy street, and the food is classic breakfast fare: four sandwiches, more than a dozen egg-based options, sourdough flapjacks, French toast, and oatmeal. During the week, you order at the counter and get a number; on the weekends they have table service.

I like the fact that the most expensive thing on the menu is $10, and that’s quite a feat: the Biker Breakfast is two eggs, two bacon strips, one boar sausage patty, hash browns and toast. For another $1.50 you can upgrade to French toast. And speaking of French toast, a full order of three slices with either fruit compote or maple syrup is just $6. The flapjacks are $5.75. And this is downtown!

It was about my third visit when I “got” the Morning Star. I had been hung up on the location, thinking that everything downtown is trying to be fancy or impressive. It finally dawned on me that I was sitting in the middle of town having a nice, reasonably priced meal with a great view of my happening city. I’m glad I gave in to my curiosity.

Wait: Some on weekends, mostly outside. Outdoors: No. Large groups: No. Coffee: XX. Other drinks: Espresso, tea, milk. Feel-goods: None they tout. Health options: Good options for vegetarians. WiFi: No.

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Le Bistro Montage

Weekend

Still crazy, after all these years

301 SE Morrison St. (SE/Inner) ~ 503-234-1324 ~ montageportland.com

Weekends 10 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.

$10-$12 (all major cards, no checks)

I have to admit, Montage cracks me up.

I can’t think of a place that’s “more Portland,” nor a place that brings out such heated opinions from people. The main objections boil down to the staff being rude, the noise level outrageous, the communal seating a pain, the food mediocre, and the clientele too drunk to care. And near as I can tell, it’s been that way since they opened in 1992. It’s kind of like hearing people complain that Bob Dylan has a bad voice and his lyrics don’t make sense—except there’s no reason to think Montage rises to Dylan’s talent or importance.

Montage’s bread and butter, as it were, is serving variations on mac and cheese to the late-night crowd. It’s an enormous, loud, crowded scene around 2 in the morning, and its placement under the Morrison Bridge has always added a certain dingy flair. To me, it really has kind of a New Orleans feel to it, and I quit going years ago when I first gave up late nights and then gave up drinking and getting high. Maybe Montage is a phase that all us Portlanders go through in our 20s.

Now they do brunch on weekends, and it still has a New Orleans feel to it—not a classy, Brennan’s, benedict feel, but an out-too-late, slept in, need some sustenance for another day of drinking feel. I tried to go there once around New Years Day and they were closed, with a sign on the door basically explaining they’d gotten a little carried away and needed some time off.

It’s also funny to be in there when it’s lit. Or maybe it’s disconcerting, as you can clearly make out the funny tin cans pounded into the floor, as well as all the bumps and smudges usually blurred by darkness and booze. But the white tablecloths still suggest a certain (faded) elegance, and they’ll still put your leftovers in wacky animal-shaped foil statues. I don’t know which server you’ll get, but ours was as far from rude as could be—in fact, cute and charming in the extreme. And I’ve seen other online reviewers say the same.

As for the food, it’s amazingly cheap! The priciest thing on the menu is a steak and eggs—five-ounce Flat Iron with onions and bourbon demi glaze—for $9. Otherwise, there are southern favorites like chicken fried steak with Cajun potatoes and toast ($6!) and a biscuit sandwich with bacon, fried egg, country gravy and cheddar cheese ($5 with onion rings). There are decadent New Orleans touches like a Banana Rum French Toast with fruit compote and crème anglaise ($5). And, for you Montage regulars, happy news: one of the six omelets is a Green Eggs and Spam (pesto, parmesan and tomatoes) for $6.66.

They got kudos from my friend Maria for their oatmeal, which she said didn’t need sugar. That’s because it’s Apple Date Oatmeal and comes with French vanilla crème sauce and pecans. Brown sugar and syrup come on the side, just in case. And they got kudos from this Tennessean for their white cheddar grits, which come with eggs and toast for $4.50.

For our little group, consisting of mainly folks too old or retrained for the late-night scene, it was nice to go visit the place when it was safe and relatively sane. To get thoroughly stuffed for about $10 total and be able to hear each other speak was quite a bonus.

Wait: None. Outdoors: No. Large groups: Absolutely. Coffee: Café Allura. Other drinks: Tazo tea, several cocktails. Feel-goods: None in particular. Health options: A few things for vegetarians. WiFi: No.

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Industrial Café and Saloon

Weekend/Old School

A quiet place with loud fans

2572 NW Vaughn St. (NW) ~ 503-227-7002

Weekends 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.

$12-14 (all major cards, no checks)

There seems to be a small number of people who absolutely adore this place, and a whole mess of us who’ve never heard of it.

I say “us” for the latter, because I’ve lived in Northwest Portland for years and only ate at Industrial when a friend thoroughly berated me for not having it in the book. Truth is, I didn’t know it was there for a while, and then the name turned me off. Then I kept reading newspaper and magazine stories saying it had some of the best biscuits and gravy in town, and if you want my attention, saying “gravy” is generally a good start.

It sure doesn’t look industrial from the outside, but it’s right on the edge of the part of town called “Northwest Industrial District.” Across the street you’ll find Schmeer Sheet Metal Works and Reed Electric. Not far away are sprawling rail yards. And the outside of the café fits the name a little, with its tin walls and metal outdoor tables.

But the real “industrial” theme is on the inside. There’s a big tangle of pipes and valves, an eagle painted on a saw, various pieces of metal all over the place, even some of those metal hand-puzzles sitting on the counter. The real fun is in the men’s room, where the pipes for the urinal are exposed, so when you flush you can see the pressure drop and then build back up. They even added a red light and green light for effect.

The food, even according to its biggest fans, is straight-ahead, American diner chow—and lots of it. The best known breakfast dishes seem to be the biscuits and gravy—the super-firm biscuits are called “gears” and shaped like that—and the chipped beef on sourdough toast, which a glowing Oregonian review called “pristine, tender slices of organic beef doused in rich cream sauce, with paprika giving a dash of spice.” Since the biscuits also come slathered in cream gravy, I think we can detect a pattern.

The rest of the menu is as down-home as their two signature dishes: steak and eggs, spicy Italian sausage scramble, hash, ham and cheese omelet, veggie omelet, breakfast burrito, etc. And other than the steak and eggs ($15), everything is $9.50 or less. On the sweets menu, there are a couple of things that seem a little out of the ordinary: the Industrial Toast is French toast with candied hazelnuts and orange honey butter, and Gingerbread Pancakes are topped with housemade lemon curd.

I’ve never seen it more than three-fourths full, so I think the Industrial fits a very welcome niche in the Northwest Portland food scene. It’s got outdoor seating like Meriwethers, without the prices, and down-home food like the Stepping Stone, without the lines. And if the food happens to turn you on, you can be on the short list of this place’s ardent fans.

Wait: Hardly ever. Outdoors: Several tables outside. Large groups: Decent option. Coffee: Kobos. Other drinks: Juices, several cocktails. Feel-goods: None they tout. Health options: A few things for vegetarians. WiFi: No.

Disclaimer: This text hasn’t been edited or fact-checked.

Dockside Saloon and Restaurant

Mom & Pop/Old School

Where there’s still some “Port” in Portland

2047 NW Front Ave. (NW) ~ (503) 241-6433 ~ docksidesaloon.com

Weekdays 5 a.m. to 8 p.m., breakfast served until 11 a.m. Saturday 6 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Breakfast all day on weekends.

$10-12 (all major cards, no checks)

I used to cook on fishing boats up in Alaska, and no place in Portland reminds me of those days more than the Dockside.

First, there’s the location: down along the river, surrounded by railroads and industry, almost underneath a massive bridge. Then there’s the exterior of the place: it looks like it may have been slapped together with planks from old boats. An owner told the NW Examiner that a long-time server “circled the place three times before venturing inside for a job interview.”

The interior makes it seem even more “down by the docks,” with lifesavers hanging from the ceilings, old photos on the walls, and folks drinking at all hours. But the Dockside is not a rough place at all—quite the opposite. There’s a decent chance you’ll meet one of the husband-and-wife owners while you’re there, and the same NW Examiner reviewer said it met her grandmother Vera’s three requirements: “A good Bloody Mary, family ownership, and video poker.”

To that, you may add large, filling breakfasts at reasonable prices, made with what all reviewers agree is a complete lack of pretension. In fact, since I moved back to Northwest, the Dockside has become my favorite place to meet people for a casual, private breakfast—in part because of their reaction when they walk in. They usually say either “I’ve always wondered about this place!” or “I used to come in here years ago, and it hasn’t changed a bit.”

I also love the combination of simplicity and thoroughness in the menu. You’ll find 17 combinations (all named for bridges) of meat, eggs, cheese, potato and various other carbs. Almost as an afterthought, down at the bottom of the menu is cream of wheat, oatmeal, and fresh fruit with toast. The most expensive item in this section is the 7-ounce ribeye with two eggs, hashbrowns and toast for $10.50.

Another section has three-egg omelets, all with meat, topping out with the Dockside Super Omelet of ham, bacon and sausage, onion, green pepper, mushroom and tomato—for $11.75. There are also 24 breakfast sides, including the aforementioned steak for $4.50, so basically, whatever you want for breakfast, you can get it quick, cheap, and with a smile at the Dockside.

One story about the Dockside has to be repeated: One day back in 1994 one of the owners found somebody’s home garbage in the dumpster and went through it. Somehow they made a connection, and some of it became evidence that connected Tonya Harding to the clubbing of Nancy Kerrigan. They like to joke, “We’re best known for our garbage, but we think our food is pretty darned good.”

I do, too.

Wait: None. Outdoors: None. Large groups: With notice. Coffee: Bridgetown. Other drinks: Espresso, beer, cocktails. Feel-goods: None in particular. Health options: Not so much. WiFi: No.

Disclaimer: This text hasn’t been edited or fact-checked.

Bakery Bar

Hip/Veggie/Weekend

More, and less, than it sounds like

2935 NE Glisan St. (NE/Hollywood) ~ 503-477-7779 ~ bakerybar.com

Monday through Saturday 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., Sunday 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.

$10-$14 (all major cards, no checks)

Let’s get couple of things straight, because I was briefly confused on these points: Bakery Bar isn’t a bar, and it isn’t just a bakery.

Now, this must also be said: A bakery is a magical place, anyway. Technically, baking is just chemistry, but the whole, historical development of it—like, who figured out cornstarch?—plus the precision required to get it right, and the creativity available, and all of it resulting in the amazing, decorative cakes and pastries at Bakery Bar … well, I’d encourage you to go there even without breakfast.

Don’t let the exterior drive you off, either. The patio can look pretty stark, and the door looks like the entrance to a warehouse of some sort. But inside is a nice mix of casual, clean and family-friendly. It’s order-from-the-counter during the week and sit-down service on weekends. And I’ll say this about the staff: they trend young, and I’ve read many online comments ranging from “They’re so friendly and cute!” to “They’re so slow!” As you may imagine, it’s entirely possible that both of those will often be true.

Speaking of friendly, my first visit there was with a friend and her eight-year-old daughter; we lounged and surfed the Web while I noshed on apple-walnut brown butter streusel coffee cake, and the two of them split a piece of blueberry-almond pound cake with cream cheese glaze. Especially during the week, Bakery Bar has that vibe about it: a place to hang out as long as you like and get either some pastries, cupcakes, or cookies.

Another time I was headed out for a hike and filled up on a frittata of Yukon gold potatoes, tomatoes, red onions, grain mustard and cheddar. It’s served with your choice of the muffin or biscuit, and you can add bacon or house-made turkey-apple sausage. And for a little trail snack to go, I ordered a carrot five-spice cupcake with cinnamon, fennel seed, cardamom, nutmeg, and ginger topped with orange zest buttercream. Did I mention that baking is magical?

The menu goes well beyond pastries, although the thread of house-baked goodness is woven throughout. The French toast is made with pumpkin-cinnamon brioche, orange bourbon custard and bourbon caramel. There’s a bacon and cheddar corncake topped with braised greens. Seven breakfast sandwiches—ranging from simple eggs and cheddar to a Reuben to one with fried egg, pimento cheese, bacon and tomatoes—are served on house-made English muffins or black pepper buttermilk biscuits.

Vegetarians can also do well here. For example, the Migas (eggs scrambled with pickled jalapenos, red onions and fried tortillas, topped with tomatillo salsa and cotija cheese) can be served with or without house-made chorizo. There’s also a veggie hash (and a house-made pastrami hash), oatmeal with season fruit compote, and granola with oats, pecans, almonds, wheat germ, flax seeds, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, golden raisins, dried cranberries, crystallized ginger, orange zest. Dang!

On the weekends, Bakery Bar transforms into a more traditional breakfast restaurant, with table service as of early 2010. I’ve heard that the lines get long. Yet it retains the casual feel, especially with the picnic tables outside. And as long as you’re not in a hurry or hung up on fanciness—or looking for a bar—you’ll probably dig it.

Wait: Medium on weekends. Outdoors? Nice patio. Large groups: No. Coffee: Stumptown. Other drinks: Espresso, beer and cocktails. Feel-goods: Cage-free eggs, and everything is house-made. Health options: Not much for vegans. WiFi? Yes.

August 19-20: on the road to Cooke City, Montana. Cell and email working.
August 21-27: in the Beartooth Mountains.
August 28-30: On the road in Yellowstone Country, with phone and maybe email
August 31 to September 6: in the Wind River Mountains
September 7-8: on the road back to Portland, phone working.

Read all about it.

Mindie is a life coach, by the way, and is taking her business with her. Track her down at Kniss Integrative Coaching.

So, download the show here or click “play” below. And check out all past shows here.

Download audio file (breakfast038.mp3)

By the way, I should have done a better job of talking up the menu. My bad — but here it is, for your reference.

Download audio file (breakfast037.mp3)

Download audio

Industrial Café and Saloon

Weekend/Old School

A quiet place with loud fans

2572 NW Vaughn St. (NW) ~ 503-227-7002

Weekends 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.

$12-14 (all major cards, no checks)

There seems to be a small number of people who absolutely adore this place, and a whole mess of us who’ve never heard of it.

I say “us” for the latter, because I’ve lived in Northwest Portland for years and only ate at Industrial when a friend thoroughly berated me for not having it in the book. Truth is, I didn’t know it was there for a while, and then the name turned me off. Then I kept reading newspaper and magazine stories saying it had some of the best biscuits and gravy in town, and if you want my attention, saying “gravy” is generally a good start.

It sure doesn’t look industrial from the outside, but it’s right on the edge of the part of town called “Northwest Industrial District.” Across the street you’ll find Schmeer Sheet Metal Works and Reed Electric. Not far away are sprawling rail yards. And the outside of the café fits the name a little, with its tin walls and metal outdoor tables.

But the real “industrial” theme is on the inside. There’s a big tangle of pipes and valves, an eagle painted on a saw, various pieces of metal all over the place, even some of those metal hand-puzzles sitting on the counter. The real fun is in the men’s room, where the pipes for the urinal are exposed, so when you flush you can see the pressure drop and then build back up. They even added a red light and green light for effect.

The food, even according to its biggest fans, is straight-ahead, American diner chow—and lots of it. The best known breakfast dishes seem to be the biscuits and gravy—the super-firm biscuits are called “gears” and shaped like that—and the chipped beef on sourdough toast, which a glowing Oregonian review called “pristine, tender slices of organic beef doused in rich cream sauce, with paprika giving a dash of spice.” Since the biscuits also come slathered in cream gravy, I think we can detect a pattern.

The rest of the menu is as down-home as their two signature dishes: steak and eggs, spicy Italian sausage scramble, hash, ham and cheese omelet, veggie omelet, breakfast burrito, etc. And other than the steak and eggs ($15), everything is $9.50 or less. On the sweets menu, there are a couple of things that seem a little out of the ordinary: the Industrial Toast is French toast with candied hazelnuts and orange honey butter, and Gingerbread Pancakes are topped with housemade lemon curd.

I’ve never seen it more than three-fourths full, so I think the Industrial fits a very welcome niche in the Northwest Portland food scene. It’s got outdoor seating like Meriwethers, without the prices, and down-home food like the Stepping Stone, without the lines. And if the food happens to turn you on, you can be on the short list of this place’s ardent fans.

Wait: Hardly ever. Outdoors: Several tables outside. Large groups: Decent option. Coffee: Kobos. Other drinks: Juices, several cocktails. Feel-goods: None they tout. Health options: A few things for vegetarians. WiFi: No.

Delta Cafe

Weekend/Veggie

Sit ya’self down and les’eat!

4607 SE Woodstock (SE/Outer) ~ 503-77-13101 ~ deltacafebar.com

Brunch weekends 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.

$12-14 (cash and check only)

So there’s this way we like to do things down South. It’s part food, part booze, part folks, part music, part attitude. It’s a little hungover, and it’s a little drunk. It’s slumped back in the chair, too. It ain’t light, but it’s serious—like when a blues band hits its groove: nobody’s smiling, exactly, but it’s just right. It’s gettin’ down.

The Delta Café, as close to an institution on SE Woodstock as a thing can be, just about gets me to this place every time I go in. I say “just about” because I’m getting a little old for the hipster vibe, and no place does the hipster vibe like the Delta. Still, it’s got some old-school funk in there, and I don’t mean filth. I mean soul. Somebody’s got a Southern groove goin’ on there, more my kind of South than, say, the Screen Door.

The Screen Door, God bless ‘em, is all foodie and stuff. Excellent stuff. But the Delta is Smoked Brisket Hash kind of Southern. Blackened Snapper over white cheddar grits with collard greens and a crayfish cream sauce. Po’Boys with snapper, oyster, shrimp, pork, or andouille sausage. Mmm!

Okay, so there’s also a barbecued tofu Po’Boy—and a lot of other tofu available—but hey, this is Southeast Portland, not the French Quarter. I can get with that. Nothing wrong, either, with a Brioche French Toast served with berry compote, organic maple syrup and whipped cream.

I went there with a big Breakfast Crew one time—foodies, friends, and assorted loonies—and I’m not sure it was the best meal we had, but it was one of the longest, and one of the loudest. In part that’s because they’re not afraid to crank up the tunes at the Delta, nor are they afraid of Johnny Cash, or some occasional hard rock. But it’s also because there’s booze going around, and some folks who are either hung over or still working on something from the night before, and some wacky decorations that I can’t even describe, but I can tell you that the whole place is kind of a trip. And none of the chairs match. And you might get sweet tea in a mason jar. And their lunch- and dinnertime Creole Gumbo with shrimp, chicken and sausage is just about my favorite plate in town.

So it’s right at a cool intersection between the groovy Southeast Portland thing and that down-home, get yourself-a-cocktail Southern thing. Sit yourself down and fill yourself up. Take a little tour of the Southern food thing.

Wait: Maybe a little. Outdoors: None. Large groups: With notice. Coffee: Stumptown. Other drinks: Beer, cocktails, juices. Feel-goods: None in particular. Health options: Good veggie varieties. WiFi: No.

Brett is contributing to the second edition of my book, and we’re both contributors to a forthcoming book about carts in Portland, called Cartopia.

It was a real good time, and you can either download it here or click play below to hear it.

Download audio file (breakfast036.mp3)

This week it’s the J&M Cafe. Enjoy.

J&M Café

New/Classy/Veggie

A place where you can take your parents—and pay!

537 SE Ash St. (SE/Inner) ~ 503-230-0463

Weekdays 7:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., full breakfast until 11:30 plus some limited breakfast offerings until close. Weekends 8 a.m. to 2 p.m., breakfast all day.

$8–$12 (Cash and checks only, but there’s an ATM in the lobby)

When my parents travel, they pick their restaurants from Gourmet and the New York Times. But my freelance-writer income is a bit more Beaterville than Morton’s. Hence, I keep the List of Places I Want My Parents to Take Me to when They Visit.

There are two other lists. One is the Places My Parents Wouldn’t Go to in a Million Years: Fuller’s Coffee Shop, Tosis, Johnny B’s, and so on. And then there’s the list J&M Café is on: Places I Would Take My Parents To. To get on this list, a restaurant has to be clean, comfortable, serve good and interesting food, not cost too much, exhibit some class, and yet include a touch of what makes Portland the great, goofy city it is.

Here’s the case for the J&M: It’s in an industrial neighborhood, within eyeshot of empty buildings, a rehab center, and busy, grimy Grand Avenue. But as soon as you walk in, you see high ceilings, wood floors, big windows, brick walls … and a restaurant design that could easily offer the most stylish of foods. Nonthreatening modern art (just my parents’ style) hangs on the wall, there’s plenty of space between tables, and the clientele includes lots of families and young people.

And then there are the small-town Portland touches: self-serve coffee (Stumptown, of course) from an oddball collection of mugs hanging on a metal vine, water served in Mason jars, an old-world wood-fronted refrigerator, the restroom keys on a burger and a lizard, butcher paper and crayons on the tables.

J&M’s food is a step above your basic breakfast place. One time my special was a scramble with black forest ham, shallots, zucchini, cherry tomatoes, fontina, and spinach pesto. The texture was perfect, and the pesto had just the right amount of zing. Another special had roasted eggplant, pine nuts, green onions, fontina, and fresh artichoke salsa. A regular item is a tofu, garlic, spinach, and feta scramble.

Even J&M’s take on the basics has a classy twist. The egg sandwich (the J&M Plate) has natural bacon with basted eggs, fontina, cheddar, and Parmesan on a toasted English muffin. The Belgian waffle is made with cornmeal and is delightfully light.

The wait staff shows up, treats you well, takes your order, comes back with food, and otherwise pretty much leaves you alone. I’ve seen some online reviews that consider such service unfriendly, but I think of it as, “You have your food, coffee and water are self-serve, and if you need anything, we’re right here.”

Somehow, the basted egg captured the whole thing for me. The J&M could have just poached it or fried it, but instead they did something that was simultaneously unique, effective, and healthy. Sipping my excellent, local coffee and looking around at all my nice fellow citizens enjoying a relaxed, tasty meal in pleasant surroundings, I kind of felt proud of Portland.

Wait: Up to 30 minutes on weekends; there are a few padded benches to wait on inside, no shelter outside. Large groups: Yes. Coffee: Stumptown. Other drinks: Tazo Tea. Feel-goods: Local, natural meats; wild-caught Pacific salmon; homemade granola. Health options: Some veggie options, and tofu can be subbed for eggs. WiFi: No.

Francis

New/Classy
Another watershed place on Alberta Street
2338 NE Alberta St. (NE/Alberta)
503-288-8299
Tuesday through Friday, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.; weekends 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. Breakfast served all day.
francisrestaurant.com
$10–14, with $6.95 specials during the week (all major cards)

Everybody who lives around Alberta Street has, in the last 10 years or so, experienced some kind of “wow” moment. It happens when you realize how much the neighborhood is changing. Maybe it was the advent of the Last Thursday art walk-street fair, or the departure of the Clown House, or Alberta being named Street of the Year in the Willamette Week restaurant guide.

For me it was the opening of Francis Restaurant in November 2006. Right across the street from the old Rexall-drugstore-turned-coffee-shop there suddenly appeared a restaurant with white tablecloths, high-backed chairs, wait staff in black and white, and oyster hash with ancho peppers finished with cream and horseradish for $11. Wow.

Not everyone was thrilled, apparently. In a fit of twisted white guilt and antibusiness pique, some nitwit painted “gentrification this way” on the door and busted the lock, which ironically handed Francis some excellent advance publicity as well as large, supportive crowds for its opening. But the word through the neighborhood, whether positive or negative, was that Helser’s had clearly been replaced at the high end of the local breakfast scene. We have the chill Cup and Saucer, the veggie palace Vita, the iconic Tin Shed, the classy but relaxed Helser’s, and now Francis, with its designer wood patio and $12.50 house-smoked maple salmon Benedict with pear, sherry, and sage hollandaise sauce. Wow.

I’m not into the white-guilt thing, and I’m completely in favor of nice restaurants. Serving all the PC stuff like hormone-, cage-, and cruelty-free eggs and organically fed beef doesn’t hurt, either, and fits the new Alberta vibe perfectly. The question to me was, Is this a place I’ll think of when I want just a casual breakfast?

It’s definitely classy, and in my shallow quest for stereotypes I noticed there were tables with well-dressed elderly folk, three businesspeople chatting on cell phones, people talking about wine, and a family with two teenagers. Not the typical Alberta crowd — or is it? Is the neighborhood changing that much, or are people driving in to eat at Francis?

When a shirtless dude rode down the street on a seven-foot-tall bike with a jam box blasting classical music, I felt a little more centered.

As for the food, I had to get that salmon Benedict, and I actually found myself writing the following: “The sage gave the hollandaise an earthy ground for the sweetness of the bountiful salmon to stand out.” Understand, I wrote this on Alberta Street, within blocks of the (a moment of silence, please) Clown House.

Many dishes are fancy twists on traditional treats: an omelet with ham, aged Gouda cheese, and crimini mushrooms topped with crème fraîche and fried onions. Maple brûlé oatmeal with currants and fruit. Vegan biscuits with tempeh gravy. Pan-fried oysters served with horseradish marmalade sauce.

Other dishes are more grounded. Don’s Benedict, for example, includes a crunchy biscuit, house-cured ham, and peppery, chunky sausage gravy. Everything is a la carte, so these egg dishes come with a garnish of toast or biscuit (there are gluten-free options on breads), or cantaloupe and honeydew drizzled with mint sauce. The hashbrowns (or skillet-fried grits) are $2 with several add-on options: onions ($2.50), onions and Cheddar ($3.00), or those two plus chili or sausage gravy ($4.00).

I was sitting on the sunny patio, going back and forth between sweet salmon with rich hollandaise and fresh melons with mint sauce while looking at the crowd. And I thought, Wow, this is serious food stuff right here on Alberta. So the answer to my original question was, yeah, this is a place I can hang out in!

Wait: A little long on weekends, all outside without cover.
Seating: About 48 inside at tables and 46 on a (usually) sunny patio.
Large groups? Maybe on the patio. Reservations suggested.
Portion size: Decent, but it is mostly a la carte.
Changes: Sure.
Coffee: Stumptown.
Other drinks: Italian sodas, cocktails, Bloody Marys.
Feel-goods: All the ingredients are organic, hormone-free, and local.
Health options: Some gluten-free breads and pastries, home-made vegan sausage, and a vegetable hash.
WiFi? No.

It’s a cool book, and I hope you’ll consider getting it. Find out more, and where to buy it, on Liz’s website.

And speaking of books, don’t forget to place your order for the second edition of Breakfast in Bridgetown; it’s only $12, due October 1, with free shipping at this link.

As for the podcast, download it here or click the play button below. All the shows are available from the “Radio Show” link on the left side of this site.

Download audio file (breakfast035.mp3)

He’s Kerry Jeffrey, and today he and I talked all about breakfast on the eve of his and Maria’s 100th breakfast outing on Saturday. I think this means they’re just about as nuts as I am!

Download the show here, or click the play button below.

All previous podcasts are here, and you can pre-order the second edition of the book here. And don’t forget to come out to the Woodstock Parade and Festival Saturday 10 to 2, and say howdy at the Stumptown Scribes booth.

Enjoy the lovely day!

Download audio file (breakfast034.mp3)

Here’s a list of everything that’s changed, that I know of, since the book came out.

There might be some first editions still available here and there — check Powells.com, Amazon.com, and these stores — but now you can pre-order the Second Edition of Breakfast in Bridgetown, which is due in October 2010. You’ll get about $5 off the cover price and free shipping.

This new version will include:

• About 30 new places in Portland, for a total of 120+!
• A section on food carts by Brett Burmeister of FoodCartsPortland.com. (Listen to him on my podcast here)
• A section on ethnic breakfasts by Nick Zukin (aka ExtraMSG) of Kenny and Zuke’s. (Podcast here)
• A brief survey of some out-of-town breakfast places
• Maps!

Order it now at my web store, StumptownScribes.com. Maybe you can even get my best-selling hiking book, 60 Hikes Within 60 Miles of Portland, to work off the meals!

Meanwhile, you can keep in touch with the project by reading this blog and by listening to my radio show on PDX.FM. It’s live every Friday at 1:30 p.m., and you can subscribe to it in iTunes.

But here’s a better effort.

When I set out to write Breakfast in Bridgetown, it was because it brought together four of my favorite things: food, people, stories and writing. It started as just a cool idea, then became a business idea, and now what I like to call a Vast Breakfast Empire.

But first, it was just my desire to have experiences around the breakfast table — people, places, stories, and food — and then tell folks about them. The idea was to paint a picture of Portland by showing you where and how we eat breakfast. Along the way, it became “the definitive guide to Portland’s favorite meal.”

Rick Sebak’s “Breakfast Special,” which airs tonight on OPB at 8 p.m. (and on public TV everywhere, perhaps at a different time) does exactly the same thing, better, and does it  all over America. In this first hour of the show, you’ll visit (among others) a maple syrup farm in New England that’s only open a couple months a year, a family-run joint on the coast of Georgia, a Cuban place on the oldest street in the country in Florida, and good ol’ Portland, Oregon.

Rick found me as part of his research, and I make a few appearance; I’m the guy in the green shirt. (You’ll also get to meet bloggers in Columbus, Ohio and San Francisco, where you’ll find out folks eat congee, or rice porridge, for breakfast). And even had I not been a part of it, I would have loved this show, and how he treated Portland. In short, he nailed us — even though he was only here for two days.

That’s because in all places and cases, Rick lets the people do the talking, lets us tell our own stories: why we love this place, why we love breakfast, what’s our favorite breakfast ever. He lets us be funny and silly and poignant, because that’s what we are.

By the end of it, you’ll not only be hungry but want to hit the road — and that means you and I will have something in common. Another thing we’ll share is the desire for more of this kind of thing from Rick Sebak. Along those lines, stay tuned at the end for info on how to buy the DVD. Oh, and there’s kind of a blooper roll at the end, too. Sadly, I’m in that twice.

Thank you Rick, and PBS, and all the folks in the show! And enjoy it, everyone. Just pay no attention to the man in the green shirt.

Yes, “Breakfast Special” will air this Wednesday, July 14, on OPB at 8 p.m. The featured restaurants in Portland are Helser’s and Tin Shed. And here is the story of the taping, from my perspective.

I confess I can’t wait to see it — although my enthusiasm is dulled a bit by the thought of my face appearing on high-definition TV sets all over the country. I am also bummed that I am out of books. I can already hear myself telling publishers the cautionary tale entitled, “Don’t let yourself run out of books right before you appear in a national television documentary on the subject of your work!” Egads.

If you’re looking for books: There was one left at Amazon.com on Monday; same at Powells.com. I’ve also seen them in stores at Powell’s and at New Seasons. And some of these places might still have them, as well. Otherwise, we all might have to hang on for the second edition, due in October.

Enjoy the show!

Download it here or click Play below to listen. And check out the other 32 shows here.

Download audio file (breakfast033.mp3)

If I stay on course here, the thing should be published by October 1.

Berlin Inn

Weekend

Authentic German food, I suppose

3131 SE 12^th Ave. (SE/Inner) ~ 503-236-6761 ~ berlininn.com

Brunch weekends 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.

$12-14 (all major cards, no checks)

Trying to write about the Berlin Inn reminds me of writing about the Paradox Café. That isn’t because a place loaded with sausages and schnitzels reminds of a hipstered-out organic joint with tofu and tempeh. It’s because in both cases, I am wandering into a cuisine which I know nothing about. I am left to eat, wonder, and ask the experts.

I have had German food many times, including in Germany. But I was there as a 23-year-old backpacking youth hosteller; I ate Wiener Schnitzel wherever I went and was drunk for 10 days straight. So that wasn’t much help—though it sure was fun. Ask me about the Rosenmontag parade in Mainz someday. Whew Nelly!

Okay, back to Portland now. The Mercury wrote a positive review of Berlin Inn in 2010—a review which included assertions like it’s in an “incongruous cottage” that “feels older than its years” and is “in what must be one of the worst restaurant locations I can think of—the inner Southeast Portland wasteland near SE Powell and Milwaukie.” Never mind that many of the Mercury’s readers probably live in that “wasteland”; I couldn’t figure out if the guy was about to trash the place or not.

In fact, the rest of the review confused me even further. He said one dish was “not much to write home about” but had good gravy. Another was “fantastically light despite the heavy ingredients and a pool of cheese sauce.” And he liked the place! So, for the record, do most online reviewers.

I mention all of this not to trash the Mercury writer in any way; I’m just confused by Berlin Inn. For one thing, I cannot imagine one human eating an entire portion of, say, The Alpine. That’s the one I tackled: pork or chicken sausage patties, two poached eggs, blue cheese fondue sauce, dried cranberries and toasted almonds, served with two potato pancakes. I’m no lightweight, but that thing almost killed me. And you should see the size of the omelets! There’s one with spicy beer sausage, one with Black Forest ham and gouda, and one with veggies finished with white wine and spinach. You can also take on a Black Forest ham Benedict with smoked gouda sauce or another Benedict with smoked salmon and enough dill to produce a peck of pickles.

So, here’s the thing. I ate there once and thought it was both bowling-ball heavy and pillow-filling plain. But maybe that’s just German food. Even folks that like Berlin Inn confess, even proclaim, that there’s nothing fancy about it. Many say it’s authentic German food, and maybe it is. I know it will fill you up, probably twice, unless you’re drunk, too. I know that it’s like eating in an old house, because it is an old house. And I know that you won’t have to wait at all to get in, even though it’s been popular for almost 20 years.

Other than that, all I know is that it’s far and away the best German brunch in town.

Wait: Nope. Outdoors? Umbrella tables on a flowery deck. Large groups: With notice. Coffee: K&F. Other drinks: Mimosa and Sparkling Gewurtztraminer, whatever that is. Feel-goods: C’mon, it’s German! Health options: Again, it’s German! WiFi: No.

Mindie Kniss visits us again this week, and she has a question for everyone. Actually, we both had one question — what do Brazilians eat for breakfast? — and by golly, some listeners actually responded! It took 32 shows, but we have found life out there.

Anyway, Mindie had another question. She is moving to Chicago this fall and wants to get some good Oregon stuff done this summer, including Portland breakfasts. So she wants to know where to go. I make a few suggestions in the show, but let’s hear from you, too! Post a comment here with a suggestion and your reasoning, or maybe even tell her what to order.

Otherwise, it’s 30 minutes of goofy, splendid fun, with a take-down of a local breakfast place. Download here, or click play below. And as always, all the shows are listed here.

Download audio file (breakfast032.mp3)

Today I had a chat with futurist Mick Mortlock, who is also a good buddy of mine and a member of my crew of male breakfast friends, aka The Fellas. (See the Fat City or Marcos Cafe chapters of my book for more info).

Mick, whose website is ImaginationGardener.com, says he likes to look into the future for positive outcomes that are possible, then rally people to work together and bring them into fruition. Along those lines, we talked about Portland’s chance to be a mecca for sustainable food, a magnet for the rich and famous, and even the future home of a certain couple now living in Washington, D.C.

So, download the file here, or click the play button below. And here is a list of all 31 shows so far.

Download audio file (breakfast031.mp3)

So it’s pretty simple, really. There are three ways to send photos. The best is to upload them to this gallery. The next best is the email them to portlandpaul-b3vg@post.me.com, which is the same as sending them to the gallery. The other way is to email them to me at Paul@baconandeggspress.com.

The deadline is the end of the day on Friday, July 2.

Here’s the lowdown:

• We want pictures of the inside or outside of a restaurant, something that shows the character of the place. See below for a provisional list of restaurants for the Second Edition.
• Pictures of food are also great — especially if it’s a dish mentioned in the First Edition.
• Don’t have recognizable people in the photos. That’s a whole permission can of worms I don’t want to get into.
• Pictures need to be high resolution JPG, PSD or TIFF files. When in doubt, set your camera to the biggest file size.
• Submission = Permission, which is to say, if you send in a photo, you’re giving us permission to use it.
• All photographers will get photo credit in the book and two free copies of the book, signed however you want.
• We will also need:
  • Your full name, mailing address, and email address
  • Info on where the photo was taken, if it isn’t obvious.
  • If it’s food, then what the name of the dish is.
  • Please make the title of each file your name + the restaurant name. So if you’re Joe Smith and you take a picture at Zell’s, the title should be “Joe Smith – Zells.jpg.”
• Any questions can be sent to me at the same email address above, or posted as a comment here.

And now, here’s a provisional list of restaurants.

Accanto

Alameda Café

Arleta Library Café

Autentica

Bakery Bar

Bar Carlo

Beast

Beaterville

Belly

Berlin Inn

Bertie Lou’s

Besaw’s

Bijou Café

Blue Pig Cafe

Bluehour

Bread and Ink

Bridges

Broder

Buffalo Gap

Bumblekiss

Byways

Cadillac

Café du Berry

Cafe Lili

Cafe Magnolia

Café Nell

Cameo Cafe

Chaos Cafe

Chez Joly

Chez Machin

Country Cat

Cricket Café

Cup and Saucer

Daily Café

Delta Cafe

Detour Café

Diane’s

Dockside

Doug Fir

Down to Earth Cafe

Emanon

Equinox

Everett Street Bistro

Fat Albert’s

Fat City

Fats

Fenouil

Francis

Fuller’s

Gateway Breakfast House

Genies

Golden Touch

Gravy

Hands on Café

Hash

Hawthorne Café

Helser’s

Hollywood Burger Bar

Hotcake House

Hungry Tiger Too

Industrial Café & Saloon

Isabel

J&M Café

Jade Lounge

Jam on Hawthorne

Joe’s Cellar

John Street Café

Johnny B’s

Juniors

Kenny and Zuke’s

Kornblatt’s

Ladybug

Limo

Lorne and Dottie’s

Lucca

Marco’s

Meriwethers

Milo’s

Montage

Morningstar

Mother’s

Muddy’s

Navarre

Nel Centro

New Deal Café

Niki’s

Old Wives’ Tales

Original

Original Pancake House

Overlook Restaurant

Pambiche

Papa Haydn

Paradox

Pattie’s Homeplate Café

Petite Provence

Pine State Biscuits

Pitxi

Podnah’s Pit

Por Que No

Po’Shines

Prasad

Prescott Café

Radio Room

Rose’s

Salty’s

Sanborn’s

Sapphire Hotel

Sckavones

Screen Door

Seasons and Regions

Simpatica

Slappy Cakes

Stepping Stone

Sub Rosa

Sweetpea Baking

Tasty and Sons

Three Square Grill

Tin Shed

Toast

Tom’s

Tosis

Trebol

Utopia

Veritable Quandary

Vita Café

Vivace

West Café

Wild Abandon

Zell’s

That book, plus my camping guide to Oregon and a hiking guide to the Pacific Crest Trail, are all available at my fancy new web store, StumptownScribes.com. In fact, it’s a whole mess of books by Portland writers!

A fun email that came in the other day. Shared with permission, links added by me.

Hi Paul,

I first found your podcast while in Thailand. It was great listening to your show about ethnic breakfasts while trying to find my own. I can’t wait to try the Vietnamese soups your guest mentioned.

So, I have been traveling for almost three years. I started in New Zealand (1 year) where breakfast is poached eggs on toast with a fried tomato, a bad sausage and some beans. Sometimes you cam also get some English style bacon that will probably be undercooked. In Australia(1 year), breakfast was much the same only twice as expensive. One of the funniest things they serve are “American pancakes” which are about an inch thick and always topped with ice cream.

Now, I am in SE Asia (8 months) and am really enjoying the noodles, soups and sandwiches (in Vietnam). But, I miss American breakfasts. I tried to institute some American like dishes on breakfast menus at restaurants I worked in, but the ingredients were all wrong.

My question is this… Where can I get a good (excellent) American breakfast when I get back to Portland. I am looking for a place that has good eggs, chicken fried steak, gravy, Benedict, sausage, huevos rancheros, bacon and pancakes(for my girlfriend). I am not planning on eating everything, but options would be nice. I also need a place that will be quick (around 9am on July 5th) that is easilly accessible from a route going from the airport to Eugene. I am having lunch there with my family. Thanks for any help you can give me.

Dan F.

So, I suggested Country Cat — any other ideas for him?

Mississippi Station

New/Classy

Hidden gem, or neglected stone?

3943 N Mississippi (N/Inner)

503-517-5751

Breakfast Served 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. weekdays; 8:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. weekends, with expanded menu.

$11–15 (all major cards)

I keep hearing the same three things about Mississippi Station: it’s nice, it’s changed recently, and hardly anybody ever goes there. This goes all the way back to when my friend Cheryl, who lives in the neighborhood, called me excitedly to say she had found this great place on Mississippi Street. By the time she convinced me to go, she said it had changed a little, and she didn’t like it as much.

Flash forward a year or so, and I read about it again on a blog called Breakfast in Portland, which said, “Have you stood in line waiting to get into Gravy on Mississippi? . . . Well next time just take a little walk down the street to Mississippi Station. . . . there has never been a wait when I’ve been there.” The blogger went on to complain that the place had recently changed coffees, but otherwise she loved it.

So here’s the thing: If a place is in the middle of a happening neighborhood like Mississippi and there’s no line, what does that mean, exactly? That nobody knows about it? That it’s not very good? In the case of Mississippi Station, maybe it’s just that nobody’s ever seen the patio out back, a distinct advantage over its better-known neighbor. Based on my food comparisons, the only reasons to wait in line for Gravy when Mississippi Station is right down the street (unless it’s changed again since I wrote this, of course) is that you get a little bigger portion and more variety at Gravy.

I took my friend Robin to Mississippi Station, and as soon as we walked in, we felt comfortable. It was a chilly day, and the fireplace was going as was an open brick oven, but the look and feel of the place was also comforting, with wood and brass and chandeliers and candles. On a wall was a big, gaudy mural of a 1950s-looking couple, and over the back door a Thai goddess. And an old-timey dresser served as a sideboard.

This décor reminded me of something a chef at another restaurant once told me about Mississippi Station: “They can’t seem to decide what they want to be.”

He was actually talking about the menu, but “undecided” might seem, for you as it did for me and Robin, like a place with plenty of options. There are scrambles with thick-sliced pepper bacon, chicken apple sausage, honey cured ham, prusciutto, and just “ham.” There are also vegetarian scrambles: a spinach-feta and a mushroom-Roma tomato-Swiss. There are two standard Benedicts (Canadian bacon and spinach-tomato) and two more interesting ones (bacon-tomato-avocado and Portobello mushroom with truffle hollandaise sauce).

The “From the Griddle” section included malted buttermilk pancakes (with optional berries) and something called Bread Pudding French Toast. I say it’s “called” that because we couldn’t find anything about it that resembled bread pudding. It wasn’t moist or overly sweet, didn’t have raisins in it, and was encased in a golden crust. It was good (in fact, we thought all the food was just “good”), but it wasn’t bread pudding — all in all, another check in the “what is this place up to?” column.

I’ll say this: In my whole research project, this place had possibly my most favorite potatoes. And since the blogger at Portland Hamburgers said he loved the fries, I’d say Mississippi Station is good at potatoes. And the patio out back is wonderful.

So maybe Mississippi Station doesn’t “know what they want to be,” and maybe the décor combines a few too many things (Robin and I called it “funky hip industrial”). But there’s a lot to be said for a good breakfast place in a cool neighborhood with no lines on the weekend.

Wait: None.

Seating: About 40 at tables plus a small bar; also a really nice patio which seats about 70 people. Limited indoor waiting area.

Large groups? Definitely, with notice. Recommend reservations during the summer for parties over 6.

Portion size: Reasonable.

Changes: Within reason.

Coffee: Stumptown.

Other drinks: Numi Tea, juices, sodas, cocktails.

Feel-goods: None that they brag about.

Health options: Limited vegetarian options.

WiFi? No.

It’s now in a storage locker, and one day shall be reborn in even greater glory. But until yesterday, it looked like this.

So here it is, Episode 30, a random and semi-solo affair, featuring my drop-in special guest Sabrina from Morning Submission. We talked bloody marys and cutting down trees and other random things. Seriously.

You can also hear it by clicking Play below. And all previous episodes are linked from here.

Download audio file (breakfast030.mp3)

What do you think? We will lose the “see” and go with just “p. 75″ for whatever. We can also label the roads or not, add minor streets or not, and so on. In an ideal world, maybe get the restaurant categories on here, but that’s probably too much.

Click on the map to expand it to full-size.

Feedback? Post it here or email it to Paul@baconandeggspress.com

Enjoy.

Charburger

It’s like eating in a vintage post card

745 Wanapa St. in Cascade Locks ~ 541-374-8477

Breakfast daily from 6 to 11:30 a.m. Sunday brunch buffet (reservations required) is 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

$6-10 for breakfast (All cards). Sunday buffet is $17.95 for adults, less for seniors and kids.

You couldn’t open a place like the Charburger these days. The fact that it still exists says more about tradition and location than food. So while the place is thankfully with us, I don’t think you could pull off a new place where the marionberry pancakes come with a pile of purple goo on top. And I know you couldn’t get away with a mascot that’s a little Indian boy, with a feather on his head and everything, named Chief Char.

You walk into the Charburger and get hit with a wave of sugar-air, like one of those heat or air conditioning waves in a modern office building. But this one is from the fudge and candy selections in the front of Granny’s Gift Shop. After that, it’s all 50s, all the time — and it’s no coincidence. The place has been there for 50 years, with the same owner. He used to own the locations in Hood River and Pendleton but sold them years ago. This one, right next to the Bridge of the Gods, is the One True Original.

You’ve got your arrowheads and guns (a family collection) on the wall with a sign that says, “Hi, pardner – remember when?” You’ve got your Indian (not Native American, mind you) paintings and blankets on the wall. You got your logging memorabilia. Over in Granny’s, you’ve got your fudge, oatmeal sandwich with cream cheese frosting filling, animal figurines, sentimental greeting cards, wind chimes, an “Indian art knife,” bear-shaped candle holders, and your sea foam.

Place your order at the counter, where it’s cafeteria style. You can grab your dessert or beverage, then slide your tray on down and tell ‘em if you want to be the first person I’ve ever heard of to order the pizza omelet. We all stuck with the basics: bacon, eggs, and big thick pancakes (a short stack was more than enough for any of us) that came with maple and marionberry syrup. As a further sampling of the menu, though: the burger options include Hawaiian, Alpine, Mexican, Big Chief, and almost as a side thought, Garden. You get your condiments from a covered wagon and your salad from the caboose salad bar.

There’s a Sunday brunch buffet, as well. At this point, I’m sure you can close your eyes and imagine what that’s about. But if not, think beef, chicken, salmon, seafood, link sausage, bacon, fettuccine, Belgian waffles, biscuits and gravy, to-order omelets, and a fruit and dessert bar. It’s $17.95 for adults and various sub-$10 prices for seniors and kids.

If there’s anything that makes a stop at Charburger worthwhile, it has to be sitting in a booth enjoying a magnificent view of the Columbia River and the Bridge of the Gods, with a meal that you’ve earned after a big hike in the Gorge, or maybe with the breakfast you’ll be walking off on the trails.

At that point, I don’t care if the Politically Correct Police probably dream of burning the place down. And I don’t care if you could open a place like this anymore or not. It’s like a museum of 1950s food, from the decorations to the menu, and sometimes that’s exactly where you want to be.

Wait: Only in the line to order. Large groups? No worries. Coffee: Boyds. Other drinks: Milkshakes, sodas and, yes, Lipton Tea. Feel-goods: Uh, the view? Health options: Lots of hiking trails around. WiFi? No.

We mentioned a story she wrote called “The Morning After,” so here’s a link to it. Here’s a another one to the rest of her Vanguard stuff; she also has a website and Twitter feed.

We also covered a little “contest” I have going on. It’s really more like using a prize — free copy of my second edition when it comes out — to elicit feedback on this question. Deadline is June 10, and everybody who offers feedback (via comment on the site or email to Paul@BaconandEggsPress.com) is entered for a chance to win.

As always, click “play” below to listen, or here to download. And here’s a list of all the shows I’ve done.

Download audio file (breakfast029.mp3)

Accanto

New/Classy/Weekend

The Legend’s casual sibling

2838 SE Belmont (SE/Belmont) ~ (503) 235-4900 ~ accantopdx.com ~ @accantopdx

Brunch weekends 9 to 2. $13-15 (all major cards, no checks)

On my freelance writer’s budget, a restaurant like Genoa is saved for once a year – maybe. If the folks are in town, or some magazine is paying, or I’m desperately trying to impress somebody, I can see it. Otherwise I leave it to rich folks and serious restaurant people.

Well, there are a lot more of me than them. And the owners of Genoa know this. So in late 2009 the new owners of the place, having renovated and re-opened the legendary restaurant, did the same to the storage area next door and opened Accanto, which their website calls “a slice of Italian café life” and “a friendly place to share an espresso, a glass of wine or stuffed foccacia warm from the oven.”

For once, a website has undersold a place. I’m writing this a few months after the Breakfast Crew descended upon Accanto – 10 of us, with notice, at 11 on a Sunday – and some of them are still asking when we’re going back. Or just going back on their own.

I don’t know about “a slice of Italian cafe life,” but I do know that it shares a kitchen and some staff with Genoa (“accanto” is Italian for “next to”), as well as the same philosophy – and some amazing food. The service was top-notch, the atmosphere both classy and casual, and the brunch entrees all priced at $8-10. It’s like a Serious Restaurant World opened a little brunch door for the rest of us to come through.

Once through that door, you can sit a spacious, naturally lit room with wood floors, an open kitchen, and a seating area in the back filled with Italian cookbooks. The menu has eight main dishes, seven sides (like fennel bacon and a sage biscuit), four sandwiches and three cocktails – most of this a classy, Italian twist on an old favorite.

Consider the salmon scramble, hardly unique in Portland; but this one comes with fennel, red onion and crème fraiche, for only $9. There’s a Frittata with mushrooms, arugula, mascarpone cheese and truffles ($9); poached eggs over polenta and pancetta hash with leeks, fennel and piquillo peppers ($10); and Panettone French toast with Amaretto syrup, pear compote and whipped cream ($9). No one in the Crew can describe that French toast, because I ran off and hid with it.

If you don’t know what panetonne is, here’s a little education. It’s a sweet bread, traditionally made with candied orange, citron, lemon zest, and raisins. It’s made to rise over 20 or more hours, which makes it so fluffy you have to hold it on the table, and in Italy it’s a big deal around Christmas time. I mention all of this for two reasons: one is to try to tell you how good Accanto’s French toast is – although I can’t – and the other is to point out that Accanto isn’t just a great brunch without a huge line. It’s a place to sample Italian culture for a bit, have a nice meal, and even learn something.

Wait: A little. Large groups: With notice. Coffee: not sure. Other drinks: Cocktails, espresso. Feel-goods: Eggs are fresh from Sweet Briar Farms; bacon, sausage, pancetta, quick breads and panettone are all house made. Health options: Not much here for vegetarians. WiFi? No.

The first edition of Breakfast in Bridgetown had all the restaurants listed alphabetically, but sorted in the front by part of town. The idea was that you’d pick a part of town, see all the places there, then look them up by name.

For the second edition, that list of areas will be replaced by maps, with the name of the restaurant and the page number on the maps. So ….

Do I keep the restaurants listed alphabetically, like they are now? Or do I group them by area? What do you think?

Please post a comment here or email me at Paul@BaconandEggsPress.com. Everybody who responds is entered into a drawing for a free copy of the book when it comes out. Deadline is Friday, June 11.

It was a fine brunch, and I’ll miss it. It never even had a chance to make it into the book, but the Crew and I did get over there once, and we had this to say.

You know the place — over by the Ross Island Bridge, open all night, a little nutty on the weekends. Well, it’s been under the same ownership since 1978, and you can hear all about on this week’s podcast. Download the show here or hit Play below. And to check out a list of the 27 previous shows, click here.

If you want to look for them the Hotcake House, they have a Facebook page and a Twitter account.

Download audio file (breakfast028.mp3)

This hasn’t been fact-checked and is based on a visit a few months ago. And I don’t care.

Beast

New/Classy/Weekend

They don’t care — in a good way

5245 NE 30th (NE/Alberta) ~ 503-841-6968 ~ beastpdx.com

Brunch seatings Sunday at 10 a.m. or Noon.

$28 includes coffee and juice (all major cards, no checks)

Beast just doesn’t care.

For one thing, they don’t care what you want to eat. It’s four courses, and you’ll find out what you’re getting when you get there. It’s on the little menu, right above “substitutions politely declined.”

They also celebrate meat, and serve lots of it. There’s a famous picture of the chef hugging a dead pig in a field. If that’s a problem for you, well, they don’t care. Plenty of places in town.

They’re expensive – as in $28 per person. See above.

Their chairs are uncomfortable, and are apparently well-known carryovers from another restaurant. They crank 70s rock. They make you sit with folks you don’t know. See above.

But they also “don’t care” in the way my friend John T means it. You don’t know John T, which is a shame, but when he gets all worked up about something he likes, be it John Irving’s writing or the Arkansas football team or Arlo Guthrie’s version of “The Gates of Eden,” he will pronounce that his current hero “doesn’t care!” As in, dude just hammers out the good stuff like he knows how, big Magic Style, and does … not … care what folks think.

That’s how they cook over at Beast. They don’t care.

Here’s the magic they threw at me and the Crew one time. We sat down, got a French press, and they laid out a brioche and baguette bread pudding with maple bourbon sauce, candied hazelnuts and glazed bacon. Right there, on that plate, was a breakfast not to be messed with. It was Course #1. Of 4.

Next up, the Hash: Duck confit, prosciutto, sweet potato, brussel sprout, rapini and market potato, with a poached farm egg and hollandaise. Don’t know what confit or rapini are? Me, neither. You won’t care.

They had us on our heels now, could have thrown anything at us. I eat like this in my dreams, I thought. They gave us a break with a selection from the Cheese Bar. I don’t remember what they were, because I think in all the excitement I ate my notes. But just think four or five cheeses that you’ve never heard of, come from all over, are several different kinds of amazing, and come with some greens and a sherry vinaigrette.

Did I mention that there’s a wine pairing available for every course? That’s right, imagine eating this way and drinking.

For closers, what do you think about a chocolate truffle cake and a cream puff with soft vanilla whipped cream? I’m still thinking about it. Consider it a nice, sweet kiss after a … um, no, can’t say that here. The staff at Beast sure is hot, though. Did I mention that? Adds a certain something.

I guess the chef was involved in some weird restaurant drama that I probably should know about. Changed the restaurant scene, blew the foodies’ minds, fell from the throne, relationship ended, rose from the ashes … honestly, I don’t care. Beast almost killed me, and I thank them for it. Go there if you dare.

Either way, they don’t care.

Wait: Not if you make a reservation. Seating: 30 at two communal tables. Large groups: With notice. Coffee: In a French press. Other drinks: Mimosas, wine pairings with each course ($20), juice. Feel-goods: None that they tout. Health options: Vegetarians beware! WiFi? No.

In this issue, we cover thoughts on the Second Edition, some breakfast news, and where to track down the Stumptown Scribes Book Booth. And if you’d like to sign up to get future Bulletins, here’s the secret passage.

But the Bread and Ink has remained, and it hasn’t changed a whole lot, nor should it. Bruce tells us about the founding, where the name came from, what the restaurant is all about, and how they came to open the Waffle Window. Download the show here, or hit the Play button below.

Tune in next week to hear all about the 24 Hour Hotcake House on Powell Blvd. They’ve been under the same ownership for 35 years!

For a list of all the shows we’ve done, click “The Radio Show” to the left.

Download audio file (breakfast027.mp3)

Should you choose to sponsor the group for a month, especially if you’re a breakfast place owner, you’d get a display space on the group’s home page, for text and a link; an announcement to 300+ group members; a visit from the club; “mad props” on my radio show; some Facebook and Twitter love; reviews on Yelp; and “tons of good karma.”

Topics this week, such as they are, include breakfast synchronicity, Lorn and Dottie’s, lunchonettes, breakfast at carts, Cafe du Berry, the last copy of my book, the Space Room, the Buffalo Gap, the Vertiable Quandary, and the right mix of food at breakfast.

We also got some much-appreciated help from Sabrina Miller of Portland Sucks — thanks, Sabrina!

By the way, I found out that in the week of April 23, the show had 5,815 live listeners and 4,891 downloads. Thanks, everybody!

So, you can download the show here, or click the Play button below.

Download audio file (breakfast026.mp3)

Travis Dickinson is the sous chef who helped draw up the brunch menu, which carries on Genoa’s long “farm-to-table” tradition of using fresh local ingredients. It’s brunch with an Italian twist, and Travis’s descriptions are positively mouth-watering.

Tim Parsons, brunch bartender, was also along to help talk about various community projects, fundraisers and his collection of brunch cocktails.

Accanto, by the way, is at SE 29th and Belmont, and is open 11 to 11 daily, with brunch weekends from 9 to 2. And they mentioned Smith Teas, with a tour available — check it out.

So, download the audio here, or click the play button below to listen.

Download audio file (breakfast025.mp3)

I’m in the planning stages for the second edition of Breakfast in Bridgetown, which is due October 1. One question that comes up occasionally is, Will there be an Index?

Let’s say you read about some place with killer lemon-ricotta pancakes but can’t remember where that was. (It was Jam on Hawthorne, by the way). Or let’s say you wanted to share the (ahem) amazingly humorous story I had about grits and the “Southern ladies in my life.” (That was in the Screen Door chapter).

A well-done Index would solve these problems. But is this a solution looking for a problem? Do you, the reader, ever wish there was an Index? How often would you use it? I have to decide if it’s worth my time and money to do this thing.

Post comments or send an email, thanks!

Here are some of the links we mention in the show:

Kathleen’s blog, GoodStuffNW.

Her Twitter page, @GoodStuffNW.

LocalHarvest.org, a farmers market page she mentioned.

PortlandFarmersMarket.org, a good place to track all the local markets.

Download audio file (breakfast024.mp3)

You can download the whole show as a podcast or click the Play button below. And here’s a list of all the previous shows.

Updated: I thought later to ask Karen where the name Prasad comes from. Here is her response:

The word Prasad is Sanskrit and it means a blessed or sacred offering of food to gurus, deities and buddhas.

And here is their Twitter page.

Download audio file (breakfast023.mp3)

Well, now the nice folks at Rick’s home office (WQED in Pittsburgh) have put up a little video “taste” of the show, Breakfast Special. It’s about a minute of footage from Helser’s, focusing on the Scotch Egg, and featuring a shot of some goofball and his lovely friend being served their breakfast — which wasn’t a Scotch Egg, as I recall, but still.

Check it out!

Anyway, we talk all about Limo Peruvian Restaurant, where he is the manager and where the Breakfast Crew and I had a great meal. Reasonable portions and prices, lovely atmosphere, great staff, interesting and tasty food, no lines. Really good time, and a fun show, the host notwithstanding. Download it here, or click the play button right below.

Also, here’s a list of all the previous podcasts.

Download audio file (breakfast022.mp3)

Pitxi (say it like “peachy”) is a weird place, and I’ve never even been there. For one thing, it used to be in Sandy, which strikes me as odd for a restaurant trying to be fancy or creative. And yes, I just outed myself as a big-city snob. Second, the dishes in this Mercury piece look bizarre, even if they sound tasty. And they apparently have this “cult” following.

Well, now they are setting up shop on N Lombard, and will be doing brunch next weekend. So we can all go solve this goofy little mystery for ourselves.

That’s Friday at 1 p.m. on PDX.FM, or just click the “listen live” button at the top of this page.

And by the way, to get a list of all previous shows, click here.

While we’re at it, here’s a review from the same site, back in 2008.

1. I’m keeping the title. It’s so prevalent now, with more than 3,000 copies sold, a radio show, the whole thing. Not worth changing it. Forget why I was going to.
2. I think for the second edition I’ll limit it to 100 honest-to-goodness breakfast places. No donut shops, no coffee shops, no places with one or two breakfast sandwiches, no matter how good.
3. For this edition, places will be two pages each, not three. This will be accomplished with some formatting changes and a slight reduction in text, my ego be damned.
4. I will seek wise consultants to write small sections (a few pages) on ethnic breakfasts and cart breakfasts.
5. I will write a similar small section on out-of-town places.
6. I will throw in a list at the end of “other places to check out,” a la William Sullivan in his 100 Hikes series, where he tosses in a few words about 100 more hikes in the back. He’s a machine.
7. I probably won’t go with photos of every place, and might hire a pro to get some real pictures. This is related to #3, above.
8. I will implement some kind of criteria for getting a main description, like you’ve been doing brunch for at least a year, something like that.
9. The idea is to create a book with two-year shelf life, and a big disclaimer to explain it all. Updates on the web all the time.
10. The biggie is to take my whole database and find somebody to create a breakfast iPhone app, like the Cocktail Compass.

So, what do you think?

I will be selling all of these items. Buy any two $15 books for $25. I take cards, too!

Breakfast in Bridgetown ($10)

60 Hikes Within 60 Miles of Portland — new 4th edition for 2010! ($15)

Best Tent Camping: Oregon (2009 — $15)

Day and Overnight Hikes on the Oregon PCT ($10)

Happy Hour Guidebook and Wine Country Guidebook ($15 each)

Woman’s Best Friend, a collection of stories by women about their dogs

This is down on the waterfront next to the Avion Hotel. And they sure seem to have some attractive customers! I mean, I look at this photo gallery, and it’s almost like they brought in some models or something. They wouldn’t do that, would they?

They also just announced, in a press release on PDXFoodPress, that they have a new executive chef. Stay tuned for a brunch report from the Breakfast Crew.

Then we just rolled along through breakfast news and recent meals, occasionally fighting with each other about 80s “rock” bands, whipped cream, oatmeal, rhubarb, prosciutto scrambles, I can’t remember what else.

So, click here to download it, or look for the “play” button down below.

Here are some links from the show:

My Twitter page

Meetup.com Breakfast Club

Popeye’s on Facebook

60 Hikes Within 60 Miles of Portland

Skidmore Market — the Saturday home of my booth, Stumptown Scribes.

Wicked Waffles — new cart in NoPoPod

bloop — oatmeal cart downtown

Besaw’s on NW 23rd, where Mindie didn’t go gaga over the prosciutto scramble

Tasty and Sons from Portlandfood.org — here’s what Food Dude said.

Gracie’s at the De Luxe Hotel

Limo, a Peruvian place in NW — tune in next week to hear the owner and chef!

Cameo Cafe — still going stong at 82nd and Sandy

Prasad — replaced the Blossoming Lotus in Yoga Pearl.

KOIN’s Keep it Local — where Mindie will be appearing Monday the 29th at 4 p.m.

KnissCoaching.com — Mindie’s homepage. Live your dream, rock your life.

Now, here’s that play button:
Download audio file (breakfast021.mp3)

Anyway, Wicked Waffles sounds pretty good. For example, today’s special, according to their Twitter feed, is the Monkey Business: banana nut waffle filled with bananas and whipped cream. And they have heated outdoor seating!

Also, they are the first in town to do oatmeal — or, at least, to focus on it. My friend Mindie, always a proponent of oatmeal on my radio show, will be thrilled.

Here is what dieselboi — himself once a guest on my show — had to say about a meal at bloop:

The rolled oats are made on the spot with ingredients like nuts, fruit, agave syrup, and different spices like cinnamon and nutmeg. The dish I enjoyed included oats, almond milk, banana, almonds, agave drizzle and cinnamon mix (cinnamon, brown sugar and finely chopped nuts.) All of that is served hot, so you get that great hearty feeling of eating a hot breakfast on a cool winter morning. I really enjoyed the warm bananas and chopped almonds mixed in with the oats and it sated me until lunchtime.

Read the whole thing here.

My Stumptown Scribes booth will be set up in the food court, and I’ll be sharing it this week with the lovely Jackie of Scrumptious Suds. Market is open from 10 to 5:30.

I am selling signed, updated copies of Breakfast in Bridgetown for $10, and I also have hiking and camping books I wrote, plus the Happy Hour guidebook, the Wine Country guidebook, and several other fun titles.

She tells the story of the 107-year-old restaurant, how she has worked to freshen it up since buying it a few years back, and what it’s like owning a restaurant after years as a customer and employee in the business.

Also, we mentioned something about my recent television appearance. The story of that is here, and there are some photos here. The TV show, “Breakfast Special,” will air in July.

You can download this week’s radio show with Cana here or click the little “Play” button below to listen to it in a new window.

Download audio file (breakfast020.mp3)

I also got an email from a cook at Pitxi, which used to be in Sandy but is moving to Portland. As of April 9, they will be at 5225 N Lombard, which looks from this map to be the old Encanto space. They don’t seem to have a website — do not put a .com after their name if you’re easily offended — but I found a 2009 review from The Oregonian that made it sound pretty good.

Details are here.

Either way, get it.

Hire Amaren for your next project.

That is all.

I’ll be selling Breakfast in Bridgetown for $10 — signed, and with a list of updates since publications — plus several other locally-written titles, including:

• Best Tent Camping: Oregon by me
• Day and Overnight Hikes on the Oregon PCT, also by me
• Portland Happy Hour Guidebook by Cindy Anderson
• Oregon Wine Country by Cindy Anderson
• Woman’s Best Friend (women writing about dogs) by Megan McMorris
• Cooking Italian by Joe Bianco.

The booth is called Stumptown Scribes, and for more information check the soon-to-be-redone website, StumptownScribes.com. And yes, I take credit cards.

See you there!