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    <id>tag:typepad.com,2003:weblog-1305338</id>
    <updated>2009-12-20T10:45:21-08:00</updated>
    <subtitle>An idiosyncratic and opinionated dictionary of Italian words related to food, with audio accompaniment</subtitle>
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        <title>formaggio cremoso fatto in casa</title>
        <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://briciole.typepad.com/blog/2009/12/formaggio-cremoso-fatto-in-casa.html" />
        <link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://briciole.typepad.com/blog/2009/12/formaggio-cremoso-fatto-in-casa.html" thr:count="1" thr:updated="2009-12-20T12:16:41-08:00" />
        <id>tag:typepad.com,2003:post-6a00d835508b1869e20120a756791b970b</id>
        <published>2009-12-20T10:45:21-08:00</published>
        <updated>2009-12-20T10:45:21-08:00</updated>
        <summary>homemade cream cheese [cliccare il link per andare alla versione in italiano] This story starts with crème caramel. I had four egg yolks leftover from making a cake and I thought that it was time I tried to make crème...</summary>
        <author>
            <name>Simona</name>
        </author>
        <category scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" term="Cheese &amp; Dairy" />
        
        
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<div xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"><p><strong>homemade cream cheese </strong><br />
[<em>cliccare il link per andare alla <a href="http://briciole.typepad.com/blog/2009/12/formaggio-cremoso-fatto-in-casa.html#it">versione in italiano</a></em>]
</p>

<p><a href="http://briciole.typepad.com/.a/6a00d835508b1869e20128765dbd45970c-pi" style="float: left;"><img alt="DSC_0025-2" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d835508b1869e20128765dbd45970c " src="http://briciole.typepad.com/.a/6a00d835508b1869e20128765dbd45970c-120pi" style="margin: 5px;" title="DSC_0025-2" /></a> This story starts with crème caramel. I had four egg yolks leftover from making a cake and I thought that it was time I tried to make crème caramel. I used the recipe for Classic Crème Caramel from the (recently purchased) book <strong>Luscious Creamy Desserts</strong> by Lori Longbotham: it is simple to make and the result is quite pleasing. </p>

<p>The translation in Italian is <em>crema al caramello</em>. However, we use the French name to refer to this dessert. The antique ice cream glass in which I served the crème caramel may be objectionable, but I find it irresistible.</p>

<p>The only minor change I made to the recipe was to substitute 1/4 cup of half-and-half with the same quantity of milk. As a result, I ended up with a cup of organic half-and-half leftover from the pint I had purchased. I also had a cup of organic whipping cream that I had bought with ice cream in mind. The half-and-half, the cream and a pint of whole milk all went into making cream cheese according to the recipe in <strong>200 Easy Homemade Cheese Recipes</strong> by Debra Amrein-Boyes. The half-and-half was my idea: in the original recipe it is whipping cream — so that the starting mixture is made up of half whipping cream and half whole milk. As I mentioned previously in posts pertaining my cheese-making adventures, I use pasteurized milk (and in this case, pasteurized half-and-half and cream), never ultra-pasteurized or UHT. To read more about milk with respect to making cheese, consult my page on <a href="http://briciole.typepad.com/blog/making-cheese-at-home.html">making cheese at home</a>.</p>



<p>My dictionary translates cream cheese as <em>formaggio fresco e grasso</em>. More than a translation, that is a description of what cream cheese is, a fresh cheese with a high fat content. The name commonly used in Italy to indicate this cheese is <em>Philadelphia</em>, from the brand name. I remember my younger self being attracted to the small silver packages of <em>formaggio Philadelphia</em> and remember also not being impressed by it. The last time I purchased cream cheese was to fulfill <a href="http://briciole.typepad.com/blog/2008/04/cheesecake-su-1.html">this Daring Bakers' challenge</a> in April of last year. </p>

<p>However, the book's declaration that "The typical supermarket variety just cannot compare" sold me on the idea of giving homemade cream cheese a try. The statement fits my experience. I drained my cream cheese for a longer time than indicated in the recipe. It was nice and creamy (can you tell from the photo below?), becoming somewhat stiffer after a sojourn in the fridge. </p>

<p>Part of the reason behind the attempt to make cream cheese, was the <a href="http://briciole.typepad.com/blog/2009/12/salmone-in-crosta.html">Daring Cooks' December challenge</a>. My first batch of cream cheese was used up before I managed to find the time to make the challenge recipe. I then made another batch of crème caramel and another batch of cream cheese: both remakes made the household quite happy.</p>

<p><a href="http://briciole.typepad.com/.a/6a00d835508b1869e20120a75dc69b970b-pi"><img alt="DSC_0002-1" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d835508b1869e20120a75dc69b970b " src="http://briciole.typepad.com/.a/6a00d835508b1869e20120a75dc69b970b-320wi" style="margin: 5px auto; display: block;" title="DSC_0002-1" /></a> </p>

<p>There is something particularly satisfying in serving some freshly made cream cheese over freshly baked bread. Neither is very complicated to make, both require some patience, but the result is worth every minute of effort. </p>



<p>With such a great cream cheese in the fridge, together with
pastured eggs, and a hungry husband wondering about breakfast options, it was not difficult
to think about preparing an omelet with a few small dollops of cream cheese as filling. I don't use butter to grease the skillet, due to a deeply rooted habit that makes me always reach for olive oil. That is what my mother does, and that is what I do. Maybe this disqualifies what I make from being called an omelet. Whatever its name, the response from the table ran along these lines: Will you promise me you will make this forever? </p>

<p>Hear me pronounce the words on the <a href="http://briciole.typepad.com/files/formaggio-cremoso.mp3"><em>formaggio cremoso fatto in casa</em> audio file</a> [mp3] or go to the <a href="http://briciole.typepad.com/blog/formaggio-cremoso-fatto-in-casa.html"><em>formaggio cremoso fatto in casa</em> audio page</a> for more listening options.<br />



</p><p>[jump to <a href="http://briciole.typepad.com/blog/2009/http://briciole.typepad.com/blog/2009/12/formaggio-cremoso-fatto-in-casa.html#comments">Comments</a>]</p>

<a name="it" /><p><a href="http://briciole.typepad.com/.a/6a00d835508b1869e20128765dbd45970c-pi" style="float: left;"><img alt="DSC_0025-2" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d835508b1869e20128765dbd45970c " src="http://briciole.typepad.com/.a/6a00d835508b1869e20128765dbd45970c-120pi" style="margin: 5px;" title="DSC_0025-2" /></a><em><strong>Per i lettori italiani. </strong>Questa storia comincia con del crème caramel. Avevo quattro tuorli rimasti dalla preparazione di una torta e ho deciso che era ora che provassi a fare il crème caramel. Ho seguito la ricetta per Classic Crème Caramel nel libro <strong>Luscious Creamy Desserts</strong> di Lori Longbotham: facile da fare e risultato gustoso.</em></p>

<p><em>L'unica variazione che ho apportato alla ricetta è stata la sostituzione di 60 ml di
half-and-half con la stessa quantità di latte. Half-and-half è un prodotto costituito da metà latte e metà panna: per legge, il suo contenuto di grasso deve essere tra il 10,5 e il 18%. Credo che corrisponda alla cosiddetta panna leggera.</em></p>

<p><em>Dopo aver preparato il dessert, mi sono rimasti 240 ml di half-and-half (una tazza). Avevo anche 240 ml di panna da montare (35% di grasso) che avevo comprato con l'idea di fare del gelato. A questi due ingredienti ho aggiunto 480 ml di latte intero e ho preparato del cream cheese secondo la ricetta nel libro <strong>200 Easy Homemade Cheese Recipes</strong> di Debra Amrein-Boyes. L'utilizzo della half-and-half è stata una mia idea: la ricetta prevede l'utilizzo di metà quantità di latte e metà di panna. Come ho notato in post precedenti, per la preparazione di formaggi io uso sempre prodotti pastorizzati (non ultra-pastorizzati o UHT). Per maggiori informationi sul latte in riferimento alla preparazione di formaggio potete consultare la mia pagina <a href="http://briciole.typepad.com/blog/making-cheese-at-home.html">making cheese at home</a>.</em></p>

<p><em>In Italia il cream cheese è conosciuto come formaggio philadelphia. A me di fatto non piace e l'ultima volta che l'ho comprato è stato l'anno scorso ad Aprile per fare <a href="http://briciole.typepad.com/blog/2008/04/cheesecake-su-1.html">una cheesecake particolare</a>. Però la dichiarazione del libro che tra il cream cheese fatto in casa e quello comprato al supermercato non c'è paragone, mi ha convinto a provare. La mia esperienca conferma tale dichiarazione. Ho fatto drenare il mio cream cheese più a lungo di quanto indicato nella ricetta. Il risultato, </em><em>piacevolmente cremoso, si è leggermente rassodato dopo aver trascorso un po' di tempo nel frigorifero.</em></p>

<p><a href="http://briciole.typepad.com/.a/6a00d835508b1869e20120a75dc69b970b-pi"><img alt="DSC_0002-1" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d835508b1869e20120a75dc69b970b " src="http://briciole.typepad.com/.a/6a00d835508b1869e20120a75dc69b970b-320wi" style="margin: 5px auto; display: block;" title="DSC_0002-1" /></a></p>

<p><em>Parte della ragione per fare il cream cheese era la preparazione del <a href="http://briciole.typepad.com/blog/2009/12/salmone-in-crosta.html">salmone in crosta</a>. Dopo che la prima produzione di cream cheese era stata debitamente spazzolata, ho fatto dell'altro crème caramel e dell'altro cream cheese. Il cream cheese fresco è buonissimo spalmato sul pane fresco fatto in casa. E quando mi sono trovata a preparare una omelette per la colazione di mio marito (con uova bio fresche), ne ho messo un po' come ripieno. La reazione è stata qualcosa del tipo: Mi prometti che me la preparerai sempre?</em></p></div>
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    </entry>
    <entry>
        <title>salmone in crosta</title>
        <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://briciole.typepad.com/blog/2009/12/salmone-in-crosta.html" />
        <link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://briciole.typepad.com/blog/2009/12/salmone-in-crosta.html" thr:count="6" thr:updated="2009-12-19T17:10:07-08:00" />
        <id>tag:typepad.com,2003:post-6a00d835508b1869e20120a76074f0970b</id>
        <published>2009-12-17T15:43:06-08:00</published>
        <updated>2009-12-20T10:48:14-08:00</updated>
        <summary>The December 2009 Daring Cooks challenge was hosted by Simone of Junglefrog Cooking. Simone chose Salmon en Croute (or alternative recipes for Beef Wellington or Vegetable en Croute) from Good Food online. You can find the recipes for all the...</summary>
        <author>
            <name>Simona</name>
        </author>
        <category scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" term="Daring Cooks" />
        <category scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" term="Fish Dish" />
        
        
<content type="xhtml" xml:lang="en-US" xml:base="http://briciole.typepad.com/blog/">
<div xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"><p><a href="http://briciole.typepad.com/.a/6a00d835508b1869e201156e557a11970c-pi" style="float: left;"><img alt="Group_w180x130" border="0" class="at-xid-6a00d835508b1869e201156e557a11970c " src="http://briciole.typepad.com/.a/6a00d835508b1869e201156e557a11970c-800wi" style="margin: 5px;" title="Group_w180x130" /></a>The December 2009 Daring Cooks challenge was hosted by Simone of <a href="http://junglefrog-cooking.com/">Junglefrog Cooking</a>. Simone chose <strong>Salmon en Croute</strong> (or alternative recipes for Beef Wellington or Vegetable en Croute) from <a href="http://www.bbcgoodfood.com/">Good Food online</a>. </p>

<p>You can find the recipes for all the elements of the challenge <a href="http://thedaringkitchen.com/recipe/salmon-en-croute-beef-wellington">here</a><sup>1</sup>. </p>

<p>I had planned to prepare the dish on Sunday December 6, the plan entailing making <a href="http://briciole.typepad.com/blog/2009/12/formaggio-cremoso-fatto-in-casa.html">homemade cream cheese</a>, but a set of unforeseen circumstances subverted my plans. And then forgetfulness set in and the day I prepared another batch of homemade cream cheese (the previous one having been rapidly completely consumed), I realized that it was the day I was supposed to publish my post about the whole recipe. However, I wasn't going to let embarrassment have the last word, so here I am, late to be sure, but still happy to have fulfilled the challenge. </p>

<p><a href="http://briciole.typepad.com/.a/6a00d835508b1869e201287663eb5c970c-pi" style="float: left;"><img alt="DSC_0013-1" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d835508b1869e201287663eb5c970c " src="http://briciole.typepad.com/.a/6a00d835508b1869e201287663eb5c970c-120pi" style="margin: 5px;" title="DSC_0013-1" /></a> Although the recipe allowed us a choice of shortcrust or puff pastry, I decided to use the former, because I had never made shortcrust pastry for a savory dish. In Italy, it is called <em>pasta brisée</em>
(from the French pâte brisée). The use of a food processor makes preparing this pastry really easy. My homemade cream cheese turned a lovely pastel green when I processed it with some <em><a href="http://briciole.typepad.com/blog/2007/06/ruchetta.html">ruchetta</a></em> (or <em>rucola</em>, arugula) and some spinach (<em>spinaci</em>). I made the dish <del>twice</del> three times, the first time with halibut and the other times with Pacific salmon (not farmed), and both renditions were well received at the table. </p>

<p><del>I halved the recipe for the <em>pasta brisée</em>, because I meant to bake a small piece of fish, then further divided it in half, because for my first try I could not get some skinned salmon fillet. I must admit that I was a bit of a Scrooge when it came to apportioning the <em>pasta brisée</em> to each piece of fish and therefore the wrap opened up a bit during baking, but that did not have a negative effect on the flavor of the dish, which was excellent.</del></p>

<p><strong>Update</strong> (December 18, 2009) — I debated whether to write a new post to show today's much better rendition of the recipe, then opted for an update to the already existing one, given that I published it only yesterday. I made another half-batch of <em>pasta brisée</em>, this time using 1/4 of whole-wheat pastry flour and 3/4 regular flour. Perfection is a long way away, but there are signs of improvement.</p>

<p><a href="http://briciole.typepad.com/.a/6a00d835508b1869e20120a7650d36970b-pi"><img alt="DSC_0007" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d835508b1869e20120a7650d36970b " src="http://briciole.typepad.com/.a/6a00d835508b1869e20120a7650d36970b-320wi" style="margin: 5px auto; display: block;" title="DSC_0007" /></a> <br />

<a href="http://briciole.typepad.com/.a/6a00d835508b1869e201287668391b970c-pi"><img alt="DSC_0010" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d835508b1869e201287668391b970c " src="http://briciole.typepad.com/.a/6a00d835508b1869e201287668391b970c-320wi" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></a> <br />

<a href="http://briciole.typepad.com/.a/6a00d835508b1869e20120a7650d87970b-pi"><img alt="DSC_0013-2" class="asset asset-image at-xid-6a00d835508b1869e20120a7650d87970b " src="http://briciole.typepad.com/.a/6a00d835508b1869e20120a7650d87970b-320wi" style="margin: 5px auto; display: block;" title="DSC_0013-2" /></a> <br /> I can see myself preparing <em>salmone in crosta</em> again in the future, maybe for a dinner with guests. Let me know if you would like to be invited.</p>

<p>You will find a lot of photographs to admire, when you browse the creations of my fellow <a href="http://thedaringkitchen.com/blogroll/cooks">Daring Cooks</a>. A special thanks to Simone for a very nice challenge. </p>
<p><sup>1</sup> To make the shortcrust pastry, I used twice as much water as indicated in the recipe.</p>
<p>Hear me pronounce the words on the <a href="http://briciole.typepad.com/files/salmone-in-crosta.mp3"><em>salmone in crosta </em>audio file</a> [mp3] or go to the <a href="http://briciole.typepad.com/blog/salmone-in-crosta.html"><em>salmone in crosta</em> audio page</a> for more listening options.</p></div>
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