In Brussels

Belgian Blue Cheese Ice Cream?

2013-05-03T01:13:00.000+02:00

Known as the best ice-cream in Brussels.

I'm not sure what the fascination is with odd flavors. Yesterday I happened to notice prime rib flavored potato chips. I asked myself: is this for when you're craving a steak but can't afford it? Like wise, I don't often find myself saying "I could go for something cold, creamy and tastes like couscous and mustard", but apparently some people are.

"I was at the head of a hospital and major hotels but instead of taking a classic early retirement, I decided to get into my passion and be happy. " That's when he enrolled at the French culinary school Lenôtre, where Michael has learned the secret techniques of ice cream. Then eight years ago, he opened Comus et Gasteria with a philosophy: do everything with his hands. "I am extremely picky about quality. All my products are fresh, I buy raw fruits such as seasons, "said this devotee of 55 years.

Michel Comus is a ice cream inventor and owner of Camus et Gasteria in Brussels, Belgium who uses only in-season, fresh ingredients to make his 31 flavors. (Technically he has over 400 different variations) Flavors like, blue cheese, mustard, chicory, white pepper, spice of Marrakesh, anchovy, mussel , ginger and couscous. "I'd like one mussel Ice cream please!!!" Better yet for just over €1.5 you get to taste something you may have never tasted before.

Now while I admit it's a bit weird, and I'd be a bit hesitant at swallowing frozen curry sauce, I love the idea of experiencing something I never have before. Life is too filled with repetition, and the chance to stick something different in my mouth seems uniquely fun and exciting.

It's a conversation we have often here about Americans we know who have a palette for bland, common flavors. They fear the foreign cheeses and butters, with sharp tastes that and are often considered prized foods in Europe. But our American friends won't buy it because it's weird.... and to those people I say "go climb back into your little safe box, crawl up in your fetal position and take comfort in believing happiness is not knowing anything better".

Neuhaus Chocolate Outlet

2013-03-03T20:31:00.002+01:00

Neuhaus started life as a pharmacy, and was the first
chocolateur to create pralines.

One of the places I meant to write about back in January, that I never really got to was the Neuhaus Factory Outlet in Brussels. I ran down there before my flight back to the U.S., because I desperately needed an authentic Belgian Christmas gift for family. The quick and dirty version of this place is you can a) go eat as many Neuhaus chocolates as you can shovel in your mouth for free, and b) buy whole one kilogram boxes for the price of 25 euros (or 3 for 50). It's not cheap, but considering one (piece of) chocolate at their downtown locations could cost 7-10 Euros, and a box might contain 50-100 morcels (or more) , you can see why people flock down to outlet for some bulk purchasing discount fun (especially around the holidays).

Of course most tourists don't even know this place exists. I happened to stumble upon a New York Times article on the place about a year ago, and then subsequently ended up in living in Anderlecht, where my host-family knew exactly what I was talking about.

Those open boxes? Those are samples. Free samples. That's right.

You will find a lot of Belgians in there especially around the holidays, and former residents who come in to town during this time. You do have to re-wrap in your own cellophane but handing out retail cost, fifty Euro, chocolate gift-bags tends to put smiles on people faces. Many of them will never know you didn't buy them at the fancy boutique at Grand Place from white gloved anorexic high-school girls.

So how do you get there? Get on the 5 line and take it to its terminus (Erasamus), walk out of the station and continue to walk in the direction that the metro was going (away from Brussels), till you hit a traffic circle.Turn left onto Avenue Joseph Wybran (Postweg 2) and walk (or drive) till you see the big red Neuhaus sign on the right (just past the city limit sign). It's a big great gray monolith of a building up on the hill. (You can also choose to short-cut through the ULB medical parking from the Metro too.) It's really only about a five minute walk from Erasamus, but be prepared for rogue, ninja, women pensioners ready to pinch your cheeks and confront you and your chocolate covered, swollen face as you're carrying a sack of bon bons home. I had one pop out from behind a tree and say "ah somebody found the chocolate store!" I hung my head down and mumbled "Oui madam, je suis grosse." This is what I refer to as the walk of shame.

Neuhaus Chocolate Shop Outlet
Hours: 9-6 (18:00) Mon-Sat

Best Hostel In Brussels

2013-03-02T16:03:00.001+01:00

Sleep Well easily has one of the best located Hostels in Brux.

When I was traveling around Europe a few months back, it became quite easy to tell what were the best hostels in cities like Rome (The Yellow) or in Krakow (Goodbye Lenin), but recently I found myself in need of accommodation right here in Bruxelles, and unfortunately there wasn't a clear consensus as to where to stay. To make matters worse, many of the hotels are cheaper than hostels, so why would most people pay more for a hostel than private accommodation? The answer is of course, obvious, to those of us who commonly travel in hostels.

free breakfast
to meet people
better locations (centrally located)
bars inside of the hostels
parties

Of course Brux is slow this time of year. The hostel was not what you would say is a "rocking" place, and indeed the bar is minuscule (which matters little since you're feet from some of the greatest bars in the world). This of course is something that Sleep Well, the hostel we stayed at needs to work on; but, we adored the vending machines which were cheap and the availability of shampoos and soaps for sale at the front desk.. But you can't get more centrally located then where Sleep Well is. It's literally in the back-alley of the biggest shopping and tourist area of Brussels. The metro is less than five minutes (Rogier), and the rooms are absolutely immaculate and amazing (oh and hot showers too [almost too hot]). Our room even had a flat-screen television.

Now, you must understand, Sleep Well is still under renovations from a huge fire that occurred about a year ago that burnt the place down, but because of this it's likely to be the nicest (and safest) hostel in Brussels.

I would have preferred baguettes (pain francais) instead of American bread at breakfast, and they should expand their bar, but you really can't beat Sleep Well in my opinion, simply because of it's amazing location. Something you will appreciate when you visit the real bars near Grand Place (just a few minutes walk away), and want to find you bed at the end of the night.

Where to Eat Testicles?

2013-03-02T00:15:00.002+01:00

A truly authentic Belgian style restaurant in Brussels.

Never thought I'd ever title a blog-post that.

There's something to be said about Brussels culinary history. Mention horse in the U.K. and people flip, but to Belgians, they're mouths begin to water. Of course I always thought downing a horse was the peak of my extraordinary and authentic Belgian cuisine experiences, but I was wrong. My friend Nino took me and Shannon last weekend to Restobieres, a very cool, and very Belgian restaurant that sells everything from rabbit to testicles. That's right, you heard me, testicles!

Called choesels, it's one of those dishes many expats don't even know about, and tourists would never know about. Even many of the Belge, while familiar with the dish are unlikely to have consumed them. A century ago, bull's balls were the epitome of high culture in Brussels, as the Anderlecht slaughterhouse turned out meat scraps for locals. The problem apparently was that choesels are a labor intensive dish that can take nearly an entire day to prepare.

Rabbit in wine sauce.

While I'll admit there was quite a bit of a mental obstacle to get over, I was convinced if I had ate horse, calamari, and octopus while in Europe, then testicles wouldn't be the dish that conquered me.

So I dug in and swallowed those balls.

To be honest, they weren't too bad, though I think I preferred Shan's rabbit. Honestly they tasted just like beef, cooked in sauce.

The truth is, the restaurant and the food was awesome. I think perhaps I've finally reached the summit of weird foods in Brussels, but I'm always on the search for something new. So if you fancy to know où manger des choesels, (Where to eat testicles?) then look no further than Restobieres.

The money-shot: choesels.

Mexican Food in Brussels

2013-02-04T23:08:00.001+01:00

While my pictures didn't turn out the night of my visit to Los Ponchos,
this is the typical dry (style) burrito available there.

You know, it's the cry of every American, somewhere around week four of arriving in Brussels, to complain about the absolute lack of Mexican restaurants in Brussels (Chi-Chi's does not count, not ever). For some reason Tex-mex, and Mexican food has not broke into the culinary scene in Brussels (which probably would be a huge hit considering the durum popularity). Of course protecting the sacredness of this beloved genre from Belgians could be a good thing. I visited a Mexican restaurant in Krakow Poland one time that served cabbage-like coleslaw as the lettuce. I can honestly say it was the worst burrito I've ever had in my life. I know what you're saying, "why eat Mexican in Poland?" Yeah, yeah, I know that now.

Not sure what Latino-Mex is nor why you would name a restaurant after
a "jacket". Yes, that's right, it's a Mexican restaurant called "the jackets".

There are a few places in Brussels though to get your hankering for the south-of-the-border taste. At home there's Mexi-Go, order mid-week and they'll even deliver it to your door. Some of my friends clamor about it, though I wonder why you wouldn't just go to Carrefour and make it yourself if you're going to go to all that trouble. I forget that sometimes, people don't know how, or don't want to cook. Another Mexican restaurant is near the ULB called El Cafe, and operates as part bar, part restaurant. But let's say you want a sit-down restaurant, without the chaos or the lack of convenience that self-preparation takes. Then you'll want to visit Los Ponchos. It's a bit hard to find, but just feet from near trams 92, 81 and 83 (Jansen).

I should also mention it's expensive: fifteen Euro or more for a burrito, not including drink. Doing the math puts this dinner in the range of some much finer restaurants in town, but when you just have to have Mexican, and considering the lack-there-of, you're going to pay for the luxury.

In the future, all restaurants could be like Los Ponchos.

Is it good? Yes, but don't expect U.S. style Mexican food (if there even is such a thing [ex. Moe's, Chipotle]). Partially because I cook Tex-Mex on a regular basis (I'm doing it tonight in fact), I can tell you, the burrito I had (a ground-beef and cheese burrito) could never compare to most places in the U.S. or my kitchen. In fact it tastes, oddly enough, just like Taco Bell. This in fact may appeal to you if you're longing for that style of ground-beef Americanized Mexican. In fact I'm not complaining, because indeed, I love Taco Bell. I just never would ever confuse it with real Mexican food, or imagine I'd find myself in a fancy sit-down restaurant in Bruxelles eating it, served by a Francophone Belgian. It rather reminded me of the scene in Demolition Man when they inform Stallone's character that all restaurants of the future are Taco Bells. Even the plating, the decorated squiggles of salsa and sparse toppings seem to have come directly out of the movie. I mean it's a beautiful, slightly baked, darn fine, basic burrito. If they'd put in a window and sell them for half the price they'd have queues around the block. Till that time, this elusive insider's secret to Brussels remains the sad addiction of misplaced Americans who want a little spice of home, away from home, and have the money to afford it.

Fleur de l'Europe | Polish Food in Brussels

2013-01-26T21:26:00.003+01:00

So growing up, I loved a family dish called pigs-in-the-blanket (stuffed pork and beef cabbage rolls). It would take me a lifetime of travel and education before I'd find out the real name is Golabki or Sarmale (depending on which part of eastern Europe you're making it in). It's a major comfort food, and considering it's my favorite, I was going to be certain I went to a Polish restaurant while living in Brussels. I actually managed to get some, while visiting Poland a few weeks before, but when I got into this amazing conversation with a Russian woman on the flight back, she told me I had to go to a place over by parliament called Fleur de l'Europe.

If you would have told me that I would have been flying back from Krakow talking to a Russian about a family favorite food, and then go there with a friend from Rome, and someone aspiring to be Secretary of State, just a few months prior- I would have laughed.

But this is Brussels, and this is what you do. Sure enough, that's exactly what happened. The place is small, but easy to find, just around the corner. They make some rather small, but very delicious versions of Golabki. Service was great, and I found myself exactly where I never thought I would be, full circle, eating the most amazing food, with the greatest company in all of Brussels.

The owners of Fleur de l'Europe risked everything to turn the place into a sanctuary for Polish M.P.s, who you can find at home watching Polish television or drinking beer during the week. Through hard-work they've created a great place for Polish food and culture in the city of Brussels.

To the future students of Vesalius College

2013-01-11T16:21:00.001+01:00

Dear future Vesalius College Students,

I felt it necessary to write to you as my final part of attending Vesalius. You of course, likely, found this post by Googling, and arrived to this page serendipitously and by chance. Let me introduce myself. I am Liv Jones, and I attended Vesalius College in Brussels in the Fall of 2012. To say the least it was probably the best four months of my entire life. Indeed coming home was like being on the floor, my fingernails digging into the wood, and being dragged by the ankles through a closing door. My door has now shut, and I lean my ear against it from time to time to hear the whispers of the past, but for you, you bright-eyed individual, who is likely setting sail off to this wonderful place, it's just beginning. Here's my advice:

Vesalius is not Brussels. The faster you figure that out, the quicker you're going to enjoy life abroad Get involved outside of school, volunteer, make a point to get away from the other Americans. Use your foreign language skills you have (or will acquire), and for God's freaking sake, don't speak English outside of Veco.

Get drunk. Undoubtedly this is likely the first thing you will do, and repeat several times over. But don't just go to the Student Gov. sponsored crawls and parties. Set up a weekly drink meeting with some of the European students or new friends you make and try a new bar every week. I went to a different bar every Wed., and got to see, explore, and visit so much more of the city because of it. For the record, Delirium is not a bar in my opinion, it's a tourist trap. Go there once, but after that move on. Some students go there all semester. If you've ever noticed, Belgians don't go to Delirium. My favorite is Toone, it's near Grand Place, and features a 7th century puppet show. It's hidden down this little French-esque alley tourists, nor you, will likely find without some help. Which brings me to another tip.

Get a mobile sim card with a good data plan. I recommend Mobile Vikings. It's prepaid, 15 Euros a month and gives you unlimited data. I was able to use Google Maps all over Europe, while my counterparts stooped around in the dark. You have to wait till you arrive in Brux. to order one, but it will arrive in about a day after you order it.

Of course this brings us to the next morning. If you miss the last tram, or metro, or say you're trying to catch an early flight from Brussels South to Poland, and you need to get to Gare Du Nord, don't hire a taxi. My God, that's such a cop-out. When you get there, get your Metro card (Mobib) and set it up online with Villo (the bike stations around the city). That way whenever you need a bike you can rent one. Besides being very convenient, and often the only way of getting around, it's downright fun.

Then there's going to be those mornings where you're a bit hung-over. Oh if I haven't told you yet, Vesalius isn't really about going to school, it's about going abroad. Sure you'll get academically challenged, and it is very hard at times to balance everything, but this is a semester about being abroad, and about being someone different. It's about stumbling into class with an Opinio egg and cheese sandwich (perfect for hangovers), and trying your best to remember French conjugations which make no sense, despite the fact you can order a Durum in perfect French by now. Concerning Opinio, it's my opinion you should learn, at the very least, how to say "thank you" in Dutch if you're going to spend an entire semester over there eating.

Speaking of eating. The Friture by Etterbeek, is the only one I know of which serves real beef on their mitraillettes (aka a machine gun sandwich). But the two best restaurants near Vesalius is in Place Flagey (about 2k walk from Veco). Those being Burger Republic, and Mama Romas. They also happen to be the best fast-foods in Brussels in my opinion. Want to impress your friends on the first day? Best frites in my opinion are at Place Jordan, and best waffle is in Stockel. For the record you've not truly studied abroad until you've eaten a Bicky Burger or ate a durum at the tram stop at 12:15 AM.

Concerning Vesalius itself, the sliding doors can be manually opened with your hands. The coffee is absolutely horrible, and let's face it, no one in the history of Veco can guarantee the internet will ever work. That said, you're going to love it. The professors, for the most part understand why you're here, they're flexible, and very knowledgeable about not only what you're studying, but also about Belgian culture and life. They were always there to guide me, to help me become more. In the end, I had felt I had become partially Belgian, and even to this day, as I sit in my American living room, typing these words out, the experiences I had in Brussels, and my travels there (do travel, PLEASE!) have shaped me in ways I could have never imagined.

One last tip. I walked across Spain, went to Auschwitz, Rome, Paris and all of Belgium. I have no regrets but one. I wish I could have stayed longer. If you can extend your stay, do so. If you can stay permanently, then do. Whatever you do however, even if you must leave, live every day there like it's you last, and make it a point to have no regrets. Because some day, a long time from now, you may wake up a thirty-five year old mother of two, like me, and regret your experience. But I don't regret a thing except saying goodbye.

Absinthe Bar

2012-12-15T22:03:00.001+01:00

My absinthe experience.

Je ne regrette rien. That's the theme of the day. There were certain touristy things which I've had on my list to do since I arrived. Things that fell through the cracks, over missed dinner dates, or failed rendezvous. Time is running out, and I'll be damned if I'm leaving Belgium with any regrets. I can honestly say, today, I completed the list. In the morning I ran out to Stockel for waffles, then to Chez Leon's for moules provencale followed by a walk from Anderlecht to Vlezenbeek to the secret Neuhaus discount outlet. Then I said good bye to one of the first people I met here, Liz (who is an awesome blogger and you should ~~check her out,~~ read her blog.) Then off to the Grand Market for the Plaisirs d'Hiver, a light show, and finally absinthe.

Absinthe? Oh yeah. I briefly texted a friend while waiting for the eight PM opening time (apparently it's best to be smashed after dark), but she declined. No worries, my bilingual, bisexual, bipedal bar maiden kept me company while instructing me the finer pleasures of the French method of drinking absinthe. Apparently there are three, but we both agreed the French who set the higher standard in most cases, should be the methodology we'd employee for our experimentation and my curiosity.

Dripping water over a sugar cube on a slotted spoon, eventually you have a sweetened licorice drink with the same alcohol levels used in funny car racing (Formula-One for you European types). Technically they call absinthe a "spirit", and you're in good company when you drink it. Everyone from Hemingway to Oscar Wilde has consumed the Green Fairy as it's known.

So where do you get absinthe? Floris bar, across and part of Delirium here in Brussels. About 5 Euros a glass, even on a thirty degree night, it will make you sweat. You can feel the skin peel off of your lips as you come into contact with the glass, and the fauna in your digestive tract weep tears of anguish as they burn away. Apparently I'm in the minority at stopping at two of these too. The two gentlemen beside me took a family pack of 12 glasses to a table and began their evening of debilitation without much worry. Let's just say, that absinthe, is by far the strongest alcoholic drink I've ever had. It's not truly all that pleasurable other than the novelty, (I'm not big on licorice.), but none-the-less, it is the one drink you will find that is the one which you'll, perhaps, both regret drinking, and not-drinking should you abstain. So go for it, live a life without any regrets!!! (Or kidneys.)

Bicky Burger

2012-11-27T16:03:00.001+01:00

Someone once told me when I arrived in Bruxelles, quietly so not to be heard, you can't really experience Belgian cuisine until you've had a Bicky Burger.

What?

First thing, I'm not even sure if it's Belgian, but it sure is available here at almost every friture. Yet it's taken me nearly three month to have one.

I get the feeling after talking to people about the Bicky, that it's one of those "secret" indulgences, the likes of ball-park food, reserved for special occasions, or after late-night binge drinking.

They must be fairly popular, because when a local chip/crisp manufacturer quizzed its customers on what it wanted for a new flavor, Bicky was the choice that won. I have tried the chips too, but found them underwhelming.

But I do get the draw of the Bicky Burger. It's a deep-fried patty of mystery meat (typical of the friture burgers) but topped with (what I believe to be) French's (or the equivalent) fried onions, and the three Bicky sauces. Those being red, yellow, and brown. You might assume that's ketchup, mustard, and some other flavor, but I don't think that's the case. I spent several minutes dissecting my Bicky like it was a 9th grade science project and I could not discern what the heck any of it was. So I gave it a taste: sweet, and bit of tart- not bad!

I'm still not big on the mystery meat patties, and a real Bicky Burger made of real beef would be an indulgence I'd gladly pay for- but I get it. The Bicky is the mystery meat... it's a sausage like burger with more flavor than you can generally find in Brussels cuisine, and considering a Bicky costs just a few Euros with frites, I can see how the Bicky Burger has become the cult favorite it has over here.

Now I just need to know where to buy Bicky sauce so I can smuggle some back tot he U.S.

Cheese Frites?

2012-11-16T15:45:00.000+01:00

Well, as you've noticed, my blogging on here has been slow lately. I've been busy with final papers at school, traveling to Spain on a pilgrimage, and dealing with the emotional baggage of leaving. It's rather quite odd, I've never seen a blog pick up an audience as quick as this one has, and it pains me that it might be short lived.

So with that said, lets talk about something that truly makes me smile, food!

When I arrived into this potato land of frites, I, much like I suspect most Americans wondered, why no one has ever thought to put cheese on them. I mean cheese is pretty popular in Europe, add frites, it makes sense, right?

The Canadians figured it out ages ago as part of poutine (gravy and cheese on fries).

So imagine my surprise on a visit to Burger Republic, I see a menu listing a new item. Frites with lard. Lard? That of course doesn't have the same sentiment in English as it does in French, but none-the-less I assumed anything that has grease as a condiment must be good. Luckily lard means bacon as I learned, and soon after I got the opportunity to enjoy my frites avec lard et fromage.

Not the best cheese fries I've had, but for Brussels? It's heaven. I took them to Veco, and shared them with some friends and they were a big hit. Now if we can just get B.R. to put chili on them, and I mean chili, not peppers or paprika.

In other news the weekly band of merry drinkers went to Le Flip at Place Flagey. It's quiet, and it reminded me of a cafeteria plus an airport lounge, but it was void of those pesky cheese, frite eating American tourists. Still my favorite is the Theatre de Toone, but I'll keep drinking till I find out for sure. Best beer so far? Guillotine. Who doesn't love a beer named after a death machine???

Jean Claude Van Damme in Anderlecht

2012-10-21T20:40:00.002+02:00

Yep, that's him, Mr. Awesome.

Imagine my surprise when my host-mom, and sister advised me my child-hood hero, Jean Claude Van Damme (known locally as the Muscles of Brussels [not mussels as some might thing]) is coming to my hood, Anderlecht. Flipping exciting doesn't even begin to cover it. I used to enact out his karate moves while watching Time Cop, Double Impact and Blood Sport when I was little. His flexibility and trademark high kick were something I practiced until I had perfected them. Unfortunately I no longer can do it, but my adoration for this man is as great as any Belgian.

So when Queen's "We are the Champions" rumbled the streets of Anderlecht outside of Westside Shopping Mall, and Van Damme with his adorable grin, and sunglasses made his way to the stage just five hundred or so feet in front of me, I screamed like a teenager, raised my camera in the air and tried to absorb one of the greatest moments of my life.... Sharing the pavement with Jean Claude Van Damme.

His reason for arrival was a Rocky-like statue of him in standing in his famous pose overlooking the residents of the Lecht. While I'll admit that the whole concept of it being in front of a shopping center is a bit weird for me (likely for him too). I love the fact that it's here, and that I got to experience it. I'm definitely going back for pictures. I expect this to be a huge tourist attraction in Brussels.

The only thing that would have made the day better is getting to meet the man. Since I'm just lowly American in the crowd, I found his occasional jokes in English much funnier than the rest of the crowd. Often in total silence I'd bust out laughing and everyone would look at me. At one point, I think he game me that look. Sure I could be completely wrong... but (blush) Van Damme can come to my neighborhood any day.

Blind no more to disabilities

2012-10-21T10:08:00.001+02:00

This week has been a very interesting week. Of course it always is here Brussels. First there was the interview with Internations.org, class, eating an awesome fried grilled cheese baguette, and serving at Gare Du Nord feeding the homeless. Then on Saturday I was given the opportunity to be a part of Disabled Focus Day with Serve The City. A truly enlightening day that shed the light on disabilities and the services available to them here in Brussels. From learning sign-language, understanding ADHD, to blind simulations, it attempted to allow us to understand better the lives of the disabled.

As it was reminded to all of us, we all have disabilities. Some of us have no choice but to outwardly show them, while the rest of us hide them. This I know is true. We're all hiding something. Mine is a necrotic appendix which doctor's in the U.S. choose not operate on because it's not acute It's left my lower-right abdomen swollen, infected, and pushes on my diaphragm. Having been someone who would run often, I've had to give up my running shoes for anti-biotics. It kills me being here in Brussels with all the beautiful parks that I know I could be running in. But this secret, which I've up to now, mostly kept private, is nothing compared to being blind (paralyzed, deaf, etc) in Brussels, and having to transverse the city alone. After two months of living here, I still get confused on the Simonis Line in the center city and I'm not blind (at least not in the non-metaphorical way). Finding a random location without sight, seems absolutely impossible. The trust you must have every time you leave your home seems insurmountably difficult to fathom.

Just as I wish to run again, imagine someone in a wheel chair staring at the racks of bikes at the Villo station wishing to do the same. It likely seems like a taunting tease, a opportunity within reach but beyond practicability. But a group of three people are changing that. A company called Almagic brings bikes for everyone with specially designed, custom fit bikes for rent. As explained to us, these bikes are 3-5,000 Euros to buy unlike the traditional versions at Decathlon. This puts them far out of the reach of most people, but renting them by the day, week, or month gives an entire new freedom from both costs and lack of opportunity.

Another organization I had the chance to speak with is Solidanza, part of Handicap International which helps prevent, care, and enable those who become handicapped Solidanza is their annual fund-raising event that encourages everyone to get involved with the gala where it's all celebrated through music and dance. There's various ways to fund-raise before the December 1st spectacular at Bozar, or volunteer on that day. For instance, have a dinner with friends over, and sell tickets for 5 Euros, then donate it to the project.

Most important I think what any of these organizations encourage is that we each reflect upon our lives, or daily routines and try to understand the difficulty of navigating in a world without sight, sound, or a leg or arm. Imagine a world where you truly are never disabled, but must be super human to overcome that which most of us take granted.

Breakfast in Brussels

2012-10-19T11:08:00.000+02:00

So two months of no American breakfast makes me a bit cranky. You may be asking why I don't just go buy the stuff and make it. Well, typically I don't eat breakfast here, and more to the point I have a hour commute from Da Lecht (Anderlecht) to the VUB campus, which means eating is something of an after thought. Also there's the cost thing. See I get free breakfast as a part of my host family home-stay here, usually bread or fruit which is normally very practical for my mornings "on-the-run". Considering the cost of living here I really just can't bring myself to giving into my yearning American cravings of scrambled eggs and bacon.

However earlier this week I broke down. I was literally going to snap if I didn't get something that remotely looked like U.S./English breakfast. I had a primal hunger which led me to the internet for a search of breakfast in Brussels. Other than a few pubs, which offered breakfast, I found very little. I'm certain there are places here, but it's difficult to find. I did only have an extra hour to spare, so a table-service restaurant was not in my options.

Then I had this thought, surely McDonald's here in Brussels must offer breakfast, right? Biscuits, burritos, anything? Not really, but they do still carry the Egg McMuffin. Sure enough I ended up getting off at Porte de Namur for a quick stop at Mickey D's. Immediately after entering I felt guilty. I'm living in Brussels and I'm at Mickey D's? But I couldn't help it, my mouth was watering for the elusive spongy goodness of an English muffin with salty Canadian bacon and eggy goodness in between. Consider this was my first time at any American chain in Europe since arriving, I consider this breach of my Europhile code of conduct acceptable. After-all, even the most familiar of foods are different here. It's still exploratory, right? Of course McDonald's isn't really fast-food here. A twenty minute wait for one orange yolk egg, on an English muffin was only acceptable since I didn't have to be anywhere important at the moment.

As I ate my muffin on my walk back to the Metro, I felt like a crack feign getting her fix from her dealer. Ahhhh.... finally breakfast!!! The first in almost two months. I could feel the fatty goodness course through my veins. I was renewed, though awkwardly ashamed of my fall from abstinence of my home culture.

I did however find an alternative, which, while still not gastronomically spectacular, does solve that ever so complicated challenge of being authentically Bruxelles, cheap, but still breakfasty. Better yet it's quicker than McDonalds and doesn't require self-regret or guilt. Where is this place? Opinio Cafe on the VUB campus. There's a little sandwich shop which makes decent sandwiches from 10:30-1800 daily. They're all about 3.50 Euro, but so far, the best I've had is their "Breakfast". It's a foot-long baguette with eggs and bacon. It won't win any awards for breakfast of the year, but when you're walking from Petillon with a major head-ache from the night before, and have to have something, anything breakfasty... then this is pretty darn good. It definitely is a cheap eat worth its weight in gold.

How to ride the Brussels Metro for free?

2012-10-19T11:01:00.001+02:00

So an interesting discussion came up with some friends on the tram to Petillon yesterday about what would be called "jumping the turnstile" in the States. One of the students from our school was caught without a ticket or Mobib card and was dinged 100 Euro for her failure to show a valid pass. It was all quite a mistake as this occurred early in the semester and no one ever explained how the Brussels Metro system works. It can be quite confusing, and the tram police left her crying and feeling like a criminal.

I'll admit I've rode a few times for free though never was it intentional. Once when visiting Brussels and arriving with only notes (bills) and realizing that the Metro kiosks don't take "swipe" U.S. credit cards, and having no change. Then most recently when my abonnement on my Mobib card expired at the end of the first month and not knowing I could buy a ticket from the driver. (Marius Renard does not have a kiosk.) I do have a valid monthly subscription currently, and compared to my monthly fuel cost in the U.S., I'll gladly pay it.

But in the course of our short discussion, I learned several of the European students don't even bother paying for their pass. Either they live on open Metro lines (no turnstiles) or make use of trams and buses. In fact I always see tons of people traveling without validating, so this just reinforced my my opinion that it occurs very frequently. This is even easier if you live close to your daily destination, mitigating the risk. Of course the risk is always there, but if you go two months without getting caught you're technically "making" money off the system considering a monthly pass is about 50 Euros.

Interestingly many of the students have yet to be hand-checked by agents yet, but me, traveling from Anderlecht to the VUB daily have had that opportunity a half-dozen times. Surely I would have been busted by now. Anderlecht is obviously one of the worse especially when a football game is going on at the stadium. Since I roll legit, (most of the time) I've yet to have a problem.

However in the case of trams, I rarely see them board the tram (once they did with dogs). You could of course, having seen the officers, remain on the vehicle to prevent from being caught. There's also another loop-hole if I understand right. If you have a valid ticket, but simply fail to validate it, then it's only a 10 Euro fine. So think about that! Carry a spare ticket (3.50 Euro) and you could go for months without getting caught. The moment you do, you show them the ticket, pay the 10 Euros and still come out on top. Sneaky!

Questions of Brussel's Meetro

2012-10-16T14:00:00.000+02:00

You know you live in a rough area when the
"fancy" trains turn back at your neighborhood.

You ever get that feeling that who ever planned out the public transportation system in Brussels gave a three year old a crayon, a crack pipe, vodka, and a Red Bull and said "have at it?"

I recognize infrastructure tends to spring from random necessity rather than art, but there are several things that confuse me. Beyond the fact that the overhead voice calls it Le Meetro even in English to stylize the French pronunciation (which actually brings a smile to my face each time I hear it), I'm perplexed that after two months here I still can't find a map that combines both trams, buses, and Metros into a single image.

Why can't the 2 & 6 lines form a "circle line" like London does? Why is it called Simonis in both ways? Can't we just go with Elizabeth and Leopold? If it wasn't for the clockwise maps, I'd never make it home.

Is it just me, or does Kunst Wet remind everyone (the physical station, not the name) of the ending of Terminator 3? I say don't finish the remodel, but just install some escape slides, a training climbing wall, and a place selling golubtsy.

Why can't the 7 tram continue on from Churchhill? Why must I get on the 3 to go to Porte de Hal or Midi? Exactly how many stops do you need there too? What powers of the universe is preventing this miraculous feat from occurring?

I've got other questions, like why is there "short" Metros? Does it really save money by disconnecting a couple cars, or is this just to keep us guessing where to stand on the platform?

Has anyone ever done research about how many germs are on the door-open buttons? Perhaps we could install The Clapper, motion sensors, or just bloody open the doors at every stop like other Metros?

Marius Renard smells like cilantro. Saint Guidon smells like weed, De Brouckere smells like waffles. Every time I ride the metro I end up hungry!

If the power goes out at Gare de L'ouest, does the elderly who can't climb stairs just collect at the bottom of the station? Are the blue lights to calm us overly edgy Anderlecht types?

Why do some stops have disco style blue and white lights that activate when the train comes into the station? Are we supposed to break into dance?

You Know You've Been In Brussels Too Long...

2012-10-14T16:25:00.003+02:00

My ride back from Dinant gave me some time to write down some quirks of living in Belgium I've been thinking about. Somethings, I found challenging at the beginning, but ultimately became a part of living here. They make me laugh when I realize how funny it is that I now considering it a normal part of life. Now if I can just solve the mystery of the two buttons on the toilet.

So without out further ado,

you know you've been in Brussels (or Belgium) too long when:

0. You call tortillas: pitas.

You get a free plastic bag and get excited, then promptly hide it away in your hoard of plastic bags drawer. In addition, you likely are always carrying one with you, just in case you have to go to the store.
You find nothing wrong with the fact you have to go to the train station on Sunday to grocery shop.
You've heard about vending machines that take bills/notes but have never seen one personally, but you've bought bread from a vending machine.
Americans come up to ask you directions in French and rather then publicly divulging your native tongue you reply back to them only in French, then giggle at their confused look of non-comprehension.
You start cursing in French when something bad happens and it shocks even you.
You know what a Bicky Burger is, and your new concept of hamburgers is that they are not really (beef) burgers, and are typically deep-fried mystery meat.
Your favorite bar or restaurant has a resident cat.
You see a horse in the country-side while on the way to Dinant and think "delicious"!
You've successfully quit drinking soda because it's too expensive, but now drink beer constantly but no one considers you an alcoholic.
You know that there's nothing American about Le Sandwich Americain, Saus Americain, or really anything labeled American.
You consider your passage through the Metro Mobib gate a well choreographed talent that's part dance, and part skill, which impresses the tourists.
Checking the weather involves opening the window and sticking your arm out of it without a screen to interfere.
You've debated buying a pair of Converse shoes, or a Swatch watch but hide this from your ex-pat friends.

Horse Meat, It's what's for dinner.

2012-10-12T20:26:00.001+02:00

Best horse I've ever ate.

I'm not sure where I was when I saw it, but I did, a restaurant that advertised horse burgers. I literally stopped, turned to the window with the sign, and for a moment I questioned my French skills. "Yep, that says Horse, not hair." Suddenly I'm excited, it's something taboo! I love taboo stuff!. Better yet, the idea of eating a horse has absolutely no emotional effect on me what so ever. As long as it's dead, and not moving- I'm good.

Of course this is the second weird Belgian food I've found, the first (not really food) is absinthe. I'm not sure what else is lurking out there, but my Catholic school girl upbringing in the States has me yearning to break out and find each one.

So you can imagine my enthusiasm as I ran home and told my host-mom I had found horse in town. Unfortunately I had forgot where it was. Her reply? "Aimes tu le cheval?" Uh "Hell yeah!!!", I think in my head, Obviously it's meat, and there's not much meat I don't love. Of course I told her, that "I didn't know", and that I had never had it. That's when Mom said she'd buy me some for dinner one night. Boo yeah! Host-Mom rocks!

So another day passes and I came home to this huge steak. She peered over the couch with my sister carefully not trying to give away the surprise. A couple bites and she cautiously asks "C'est bon?"- Oh yes. While I also sort of knew it was a horse, I played along. "Ouais! C'est bon!" Mom quickly informed me it was horse. Quite frankly it was the best meal I had at my home-stay since arriving. I had been waiting for that one dish, that one amazing thing which was new and different- and this was it!

Now this is where the story gets downright hilarious. My room-mate decided to eat his portion of horse earlier in the night, but they chose not to inform him that his steak was 100% Belgium horse steak. (That's what he gets for being hungry!) I'm certainly he assumed it was just another edible cow with no emotional baggage attached, but he was wrong.

The next evening I invited him to go feed the homeless with me at Gare Du Nord, and indeed he agreed to come. We rolled down on the Marius Renard to Gare Du Midi and that's when I asked him what he thought of the previous nights dinner. His face went blank, the blood drained: "Horse? (gulp)", he asked trembling. Giggling I said "Yes!!!" There at the turnstile to the tram, my roomie informed me he wasn't feeling good and was going to return home.

Of course it didn't hit me till later, but that night on the way home inside of Tram 3, I broke out laughing so hard as I realized it was probably my dinner confession that led him to his freak acute sickness. Of course tonight I asked if it was the fact that he ate horse that made him sick, and he replied that he wasn't sure. My bragging of eating horse has personally been met with remarks of horror and disgust. A badge of courage I proudly wear. Gosh I love weird, atlternative Brussels.

Starbucks

2012-10-09T14:30:00.001+02:00

Gare Centrale, Bruxelles

So lets be honest, I'm addicted to coffee back in the States. I used to laugh at people who went to Starbucks and paid the outrageous amounts of money for coffee, but then I became one of those people. Now it's just outrageously delicious. There's something undeniably right about their coffee, a coffee which is unique to America, yet common in parts of Europe: a strong rich coffee. Except in Brussels, I have not had that experience. I'm sure it exists, yet, I've had my fair share of coffee, but in the end, what I really want is Starbucks. Thankfully there's one in Brussels (a few actually).Unfortunately it's not cheap. My Venti Mocha set me back just over seven Euros which if my calculations are correct, puts me right about at ten greenbacks for a coffee. That's right, a $10 coffee, and it was awesome. Oh yes my friends... I smiled all the way home.

Here's the thing that Starbucks does right. It's their service. It "translated" perfectly here (in Belgium) too. Smiling employees, happy to see you, taking your name, and quick effective delivery of that most important aspect: frothy liquid coffee bean. I'm not just paying $10 and a walk from the Metro to Gare Centrale just for coffee, I'm paying for the privilege to have a bit of happiness in a cup.

A cup, not a shot glass like I've had at a few cafes. A human size, cargo-carrier-of caffeine ready to land in the blood stream like a Iraq War, George Bush, Bunker Buster Missile set to explode (or at least get me through mid-terms.)

Let's be honest, Belgium has America beat hands-down on beer, bread, cheese and horse burgers- but coffee? I think there's some room for improvement. Considering my interest in never leaving Brussels, the question arrives can I live with it? Actually yes. I drink a lot less coffee overall since I've arrived, where as in the U.S. I go through periods where I drink a pot or two a day. There's absolutely no reason not to hit Starbucks both on the way to school and the return in your SUV adorned with Romney bumper stickers at home. This of course probably explains the constant twitch in my left eye, back at home, that my professors are worried about.

...And while this post has gone on long enough to be a complete rant (thanks to the marvels of Starbucks and the power of procrastination in studying) I will say this, perhaps the reason the Belge are so mellow is because of the lack of caffeine? Soda is eight Euro for a twelve pack, and comes in a smaller size than in the U.S. too. Are Belgian's just less addicted than Americans? Americans aren't obnoxious, war mongers, beating their chest like monkeys... we're just high on caffeine. Now that explains everything!

Mitraillette Burger Maison

2012-10-06T20:21:00.000+02:00

Mitraillette Burger Maison

So after drinking on Wednesday night and not enough sleep I woke up with a head-ache that felt as if King-Kong was inside my cranium playing drums. After a brief morning class and a study gap between my afternoon studies, I decided to forgo the normal destination of many Veco students (the VUB sandwichery) and visit my friends over at the Etterbeek Station friture. Luckily it's right around the corner, and though it's not the finest friture in town, it's a Godsend for hangovers and returning to school. It's also the only place I've found that has real beef on their mitraillettes. I still haven't figured out what the "normal" hamburger is, but it's not beef in and sense of the American word. Though they will fill your stomach, I personally refuse to order the fake burgers.

However I got a bit excited after noticing the sign at the Etterbeek friture that read 100% real beef round. That's when I noticed they have something on the menu called a mitraillette burger maison. Using my collegiate skills of deductive reasoning, and the fact the price was nearly 8 Euros, I assumed it must be close to my French: Le Sandwich Americain (which isn't like the Belgian version with the same name). So I asked around, but no one knew. So the other day, I went and ordered one. Sometimes this strategy works, and sometimes it doesn't. My one meal with raw shrimp and egg one day was enough for me to curb the policy. However what I did get was real close. It is real beef, on a baguette with frites and sauce. In all, it was perfect that day. I could have gone for some mustard too, but this particular stand does not offer it. It also lacked the cheese and salad of the French version. But I'm not complaining at all... it's real beef, a baguette, and frites. They actually serve it in a paper boat. It's a lot of food, and perfect when you need real comfort food.

Of course I doubt my friends at the friture have any idea that there's one similar in French. Perhaps if they did, they'd offer it, because if I find that here.... I'll be hooked.

Anderlecht VS Stockel Metros

2012-10-04T19:44:00.000+02:00

I remember the first time I visited Brussels and at that time I was staying with a friend in Stockel, she explained to me that Stockel was considered a wealthier area of Brussels, thus the spanking new Metro train (complete with A/C), and the the various other shiny, glittery aspects of the upper-class life. Cool I thought, but at the other end of the line is Anderlecht. Of course I didn't know then, that when I moved to Brussels, I'd be living on "the other side of the tracks", in Anderlecht (a place with a mixed reputation). I actually love it here, but considering the "community" spirit of Europe, and the attempt for European culture to maintain equality, I find it quite ironic that the nice metro-trains on the 1 & 5 come to a skidding halt at Gare de l'Ouest (yes I realize occasionally there's one that slips down to Erasmus, but it's rare). For the most part, if you live in Anderlecht you're riding the older, squeeky, rail-stock from God knows when (I'm guessing the 60's). The trams (Marius Renard / Montgomery) are even worse. They're like side-ways toasters. People pop out of the doors like toast, the heat is never shut off even when it's hot, and almost daily someone wedges themselves in the doors and it takes three people to push them out.

Don't get me wrong, I've adopted all this nostalgic public transport as a flashback of a time gone by. I pretend like I'm in the olden days of Brussels. However I cannot deny that it's apparent by merely the public transportation in the city, that poorer sections of town get the older, less equipped trams and metro-trains. The question is why?

Someone told me it's because of taxes, and that because people pay more in Stockel, they get the nicer stock. I don't buy that, because it's all one system, (which would make it worse) and secondly that's not <hesitation> socialistic Europe, that's.... I'm not sure what that is... but it's medieval. Isn't the right thing to do is mix them up, and share the various rail stock? One day we get the nice tram, the next day you do?

The more I thought about it, the more it bugged me, but of course, there must be a better reason right? I started to justify the disparity by making a rational assumption: that the tracks must be significantly different in Anderlecht than the rest of Brussels, meaning the newer trams can't run on the tracks. Then one night while coming home late, I boarded a spanking new tram, compliments of somewhere nicer in the city that evening.

What?

Must be a bit of pity from my peeps on the east-side.

Mamma Roma's Pizza

2012-09-24T09:48:00.000+02:00

Spicy mushroom and ham and cheese.

Pizza, it's a fabulous food when done right, an atrocity when done wrong. I haven't decided if what Mamma Roma's is doing here in Brussels is right or heretical. People swear by the place which started out just a few short years ago in Place Flagey. I don't blame my fellow Brusselian's for latching on to this establishment. Honestly, I ordered Pizza Hut the first week I was here (don't ask, it's very complicated) and can tell you that they managed to make a fairly decent fast-food American pizza into rubbish here. The flavors are muted, the toppings sparse, and much like the American version of the same food, you'll be filled only with regret and concern as to why you ordered it. In comparison Mamma Roma's is the Sistine Chapel to Pizza Hut's drive-thru chapel.

Momma Roma's does a couple things right, the first being, the bread. The crust is about as perfect as it comes, doused in oil with a bit of crunch. Then there is the variety of options that you can get on the pizza, and for about 10 Euros you can get two massive slices and a drink to-go. Was it good? Yes. Spectacular? I'm not sure I'd go there. Let's leave it as really, really good. I think both the sauce and cheeses on the pieces I received were muted in flavor and lacking in the abundance. What I did receive I liked.

Perhaps what reinforced my concern for Mamma Rosa's was the fact I handed them a 50 to pay for dinner and whether by mistake or on purpose, the gentleman handed me back my change minus a 20. He quickly fixed it when I pointed it out, but I do wonder if my obvious "Americanista flair" (and poor French) was enough to make the employee think he could pull one over on me. I of course could just be a bit paranoid about the entire mistake, though Saint Gilles did seem a bit shady.

Probably didn't help that I thought I was creative by ordering from their marketing sign saying "morsel" for a piece of pizza. Rule #86, marketing lingo is different than real ordering. It was like me going into McDonald's in the States and ordering "A big juicy, and delicious Big Mac please." Then again I may be reading way to much into this, and "morceu" is an appropriate word. Such is the fun in being new to a language.

With that said, I enjoyed Mamma Rosa's and would love to try more, but traveling half-way across town for pizza, while an adventure the first time, will likely make me hesitant to do it again. Build one in Anderlecht, or near the VUB (Flagey, or the ULB doesn't count) and we will talk. (They'd make a killing on campus.)

Bottom line, great concept, okay execution, really good pizza, and employees with bad math skills.

So I thought I'd update this post. I went to the Flagey location a couple days ago and had a completely opposite experience of what I had in Saint Gilles. Outrageously good food, and amazing service. I believe (if my French is good enough) that I read in the paper that the owner has disliked the way the chain has lost it's quality aspect, so the timing of what I wrote seems on par with a fast-growing business. That said, I'm officially hooked now.

Burger Republic | Best Take-Away in Brussels?

2012-09-24T09:46:00.000+02:00

The most expensive burger I've ever purchased.

It would seem my gastronomy radar is improving the more I stay here. Every time you think you find the best food in town, it's overshadowed by the next meal. However this one does not come cheap. It's a $16 (12 Euro) burger that's out of this world. It could just be amazing since it's one of the few places in town that actually caters real American style hamburgers (though not really).

So what's the deal? Try hand baked bread made daily, homemade truffle sauce, sauteed mushrooms, bacon, gobs of cheese and Irish Angus ground beef cooked to perfection. I'm not saying it's the best burger I've ever had, but it definitely is one of the top-three. It's uniqueness factor alone is unrivaled, with the truffle sauce being the culinary indulgence that makes this sandwich worth 12 Euros. No not really. $16 dollars for a burger? I must be out of my mind! (That's just the burger... fries and drinks are extra.)

I nominate this for the category of AWESOME!

Burger Republic is at Place Flagey. It's the up and coming (may have already arrived) face of cheap eats (figuratively), and good food. Situated right next to Mama Roma it boasts a monochrome dining room somewhere between fast-food and kitsch Americana. Sit and eat, or approach the back bench for the take-away of your dreams. I arrived right at their opening at 7 PM (yes 7 PM, it's a Belgian thing I think) and had a 15 minute wait. Service was nice, and typical. I left with a boutique bag (that's where the money is going) filled with one Mushroom Bacon Burger and an order of onion rings. Believe you me, it was a long-freaking ride home to Anderlecht on Tram 81.

I sat down, pulled out my sandwich and indulged. Love at first bite. It's rich, creamy, flavorful and indulgent. It's by far the best take-aways that I've had since arriving in Brussels. Each bite was like $2.00 worth of food, but like a fine wine, or candy... I loved every minute of it. All I can say is if you have a hankering for an American style cheeseburger in Brussels, but with a European twist (and price tag), then run don't walk to Burger Republic.

Big, juicy, delicious onion rings? Actually they're sort of bland.

In my opinion I'd skip the onion rings. They were good but lacked the flavors of the sandwich. If they were breaded in a chicken breader, then they might have something, or if you're happy to season them on your own, you'd likely find they're delicious. As is they're a bit uneventful.

Hot Dogs in Brussels?

2012-09-18T09:53:00.000+02:00

Crispy Barbecue: Soft white bun, chicken
sausage, barbecue sauce, and fried onions.

Perhaps you think I fell of the metro and hit my head. A hot-dog in Brussels? That's what I thought too. There are these ironic deficiencies of very obviously popular foods among Brussels diverse gastronomy network, but then in some tiny corner of town you'll find it, often re-invented with a European twist. Such is the case at HopDog, a small restaurant situated in a crack of the busiest shopping area in Brussels (near De Brouckere). Here's the thing, it's idyllic, and what they're doing there is amazing. Through the window, or a two seat counter you can order up a gourmet hot-dog in rather unique packaging. No this isn't the New York dirty water hot dog, it's artisan bread, high-end sausages, and toppings like crunchy BBQ that round out one of the best take-aways I've had. Which is rather ironic since I'm in Belgium not the U.S.

Lawrence Peter once said "The noblest of all dogs is the hot-dog, it feeds the hand that bites it." Indeed I'm constantly surveying my counterparts for their gastronomic discoveries here in this new world of Brussels, but I'm often left speculating for how much they actually care to try something new. One individual ordered Chinese, something I have two blocks from my U.S. house, another complained of the mass-quantities of cheese used on everything here (I sadly completely disagree with this observation, there is not enough). Who doesn't like cheese? My room-mate has been on a budget of 3 Euros a day purchasing nothing but durums. When I mentioned my escapades into new foods, their reply was "I'll stick to the durums". Not that there's anything wrong with anything my friends are doing, and we all must explore this city in our own way, but without the exploration of food- that emotional, sensory adventure, how can you say you lived in Brussels? The interesting part, is there's a true lack of information out there on what's good, and what's rubbish. It could take a life-time to figure it all out.

So back to HopDog. Why the name HopDog? Beer fermented sausages? I really don't know, though I can tell you they're out of this world. What was recommended to me as their specialty is their Crispy Barbecue. It leans a bit more towards ketchup than U.S. BBQ, but the combination of crunch and taste is absolutely out of this world. I'm told the bread is baked daily, and most all the ingredients are local. There's even vegetarian (not sure how) and organic options for my fellow woodchucks. It truly is a fun, fantastic concept with amazing food. Now if I can just convince the owner into making me a chili dog. Then I'd be in take-away heaven.

La Drague | The Art of Seduction and Harassment

2012-09-12T09:50:00.000+02:00

La Drague, as in to pick up, as in the initial verbal word play of courting is a popular topic in Brussels right now. Not because the art of seduction is a good thing, but that La Drague has become associated with something very, very bad: harassment. More importantly, the "cat-calling", or often offensive sexist slang or vulgarities that are commonly associated with harassment of women. In America we iconized the concept through construction workers whistling at the passerby woman. Here, in Brussels it's much, much worse.

My first encounter with harassment on the streets of Brussels was last year on a visit to see some friends. Not knowing where anything was or where to go in our unguided free time, me and Shannon ended up in a neighborhood I now know as Schaerbeek. While parts of Schaerbeek are safe, and void of this phenomenon for the most part, other parts are colloquially know as Petite Moroc or La Capitale du Moroc, (little Morroco) in reference to the very high ethnicity of Middle-Easter descent inhabitants. Indeed you feel a bit naked walking down the streets as eyes stare, men follow, and words (which I couldn't understand then) are shouted at your back-side as if it's (ever) going to make you turn around and quickly fall in love.

Recently, a documentary called "Femme de la Rue" on the matter caused quite a stir in Brussels. It occurred before I moved hear, but the effects have been profound. In the video a woman dressed conservatively tries to walk around her neighborhood and receives many remarks. The point being is a woman's dignity in Brussels is always likely to be soiled by the conflict of cohabitation of many cultures here in Brussels unless things change. This is a difficult to swallow for the home of the EU which in 2008 made a very controversial decision to ban hate speech and to reduce social friction. Yet Brussels can't keep the men on the street from vomiting vulgarity right outside their shiny supra-national government buildings. The irony is unyielding and many Belgian conservatives I've become acquainted with (who will remain nameless), even those who are running for election are quietly xenophobic about the Arab culture which they believe is to blame these activities. Worse yet, is they know they're xenophobic, and like in the US with Hispanics, these Belgian conservative think you should either conform or leave.

So I suppose we're really not all that different, but if the ideals of community and unified diversity (the mantra of the E.U.) are ever going to succeed in this world, then they have to start here in Brussels. Brussels knows it too, and in response to La Drague, last week it is now illegal to curse in Belgium in a way that's inflammatory to another individual. (Like calling somewhat a slut, etc.) It's all pretty nifty on paper, just as many of the laws that stemmed from the 2008 decision are, but enforcing them? Likely a nightmare.

Considering I've been here just under four weeks, my experience as many of the girls I go to school with have reinforced that La Drague is very common here. I've had men follow me home, call me names I've only recently learned in French, and likely countless other things I can't comprehend. It ranges from scary to corny and very quickly gets old really quick. Yet there is this habit to just accept it's a part of life living in this very diverse city. It's part of the culture of being a woman in Brussels and generally becomes little more than a nuisance in everyday life. (Likely why a lot of us just put headphones on and zone out.) The truth is as a writer I know one fact that I suspect a lot of women worry about, but fail to materialize into their justification of acceptance of this harassment: words can become actions. Having visited the Middle-East personally and knowing that there, physical harassment (touching, grabing, etc) often occurs with the verbal harassment, and having experienced it: I'm glad to say it hasn't occurred yet to me here. But with a 150,000 people living in Brussels it's just a matter of time till someone crosses that line and the worst fears of Sofie Peeters and the rest of us in Brussels becomes a new reality.

Durums, the Best Street Food in Brussels?

2012-09-11T09:51:00.000+02:00

Best Street Food in Brussels?

So I travel different then most people. Definitely a lot different than most Americans. I would rather have cheap street food from a cart vendor in some back alley than spend 25 Euros on sit down meal. Don't get me wrong, I like a good evening out with friends and wine for the socialization, but when it comes to the really, really good food- I've just found it usually comes from the unlikeliest of places: street carts, hole-in-the walls, and sidewalk vendors.

Brussels is of course known for street-food with their often permanently anchored fritures and gaufre vendors in commune squares selling fries and waffles late into the night. Of course I've already mentioned the pitas from Pita Alley, and the numerous combinations of foods you get from this restaurants. It's all delicious. Then again, I'm always looking for that next fix. I tried the mitrailletes (sub) which I had hoped would be more like the French's Americain (not the Belgian version of minced raw meat which I very much don't like) but found the meat sub-par though unusually tasty. If only I could find one like in France, I might die happy. Of course the baguettes and the traditional sandwiches here are out of this world too, and as I've said before I'm sure there are countless variations of street-foods out there awaiting my purchase, I just have to find them.

One very popular option here in Brussels is the durum. After trying it, I completely became addicted and began a 12-step program which included avoiding certain metro stops which have donner-kebab shops. So far, I'll say it's the best darn street food I've had. What's a durum? Well here at least it's a tortilla wrap (that they'll call a pita) with spicy chicken, lamb or other mystery meat cooked on a spit, Donair (pita garlic flavored) sauce, lettuce, tomatoes and onions. It's all wrapped up and grilled than rolled into a Middle-Eastern-"burrito" of perfection with some hot-golden Belgian fries. Some shops will add cheese for a bit more, and I can't explain to you how good these things are. Just absolutely amazing!

The question now is what's next, there must be some undiscovered secret saucy, cheesy, delicious street food hidden right around the corner, the trouble is finding that. Till then you might find me hanging around my neighborhood Anderlecht durum vendor enjoying my new European vice waiting for suggestions.