Here’s a look back at those memorable few days in Locorotondo, what I did , everything we ate, saw, places we visited in Puglia and hopefully it will be inspire you to visit Locus festival, Locorotondo and this beautiful corner of Puglia.

Wandering the whitewashed streets of Locorotondo

I arrived in Locorotondo late on a balmy night in July and went straight to bed, exhausted after hopping on 3 flights to get to Bari. It was pitch dark when I arrived so I had little or no clue of what the place looked like till the following morning when I opened the windows of our cosy rented apartment. The sparkling morning light blinded me. I stepped out into a sea of white. We were in a narrow street lined with beautiful, whitewashed cottages and flower baskets hanging from the balconies above. Suddenly came the sharp blast of a trumpet and deep baritone of the trombone. A brass band appeared from nowhere marching down our narrow street. It all felt quite ethereal.

Locorotondo itself is a pretty network of old streets that wrap around the concert square, and it sits on a hill above the local area. From here you can see a few trulli dotted across the valley below.

Starting the day with a Puglian breakfast

Once the brass band had passed it was time for breakfast. Where to go? My favourite was Docks 101.

Our typical Puglian breakfast each morning would be a strong espresso along with a crostata marmellata (closest thing in the UK to this is a jam tart) or chocolate torte. This would be enjoyed outside in the full blaze of morning sunshine with a copy of the Corriere della Sera, of which I understood very little, but still nothing beats the smell of a fresh morning paper and coffee.

Catching the Locus Festival

I have never been a fan of jazz music until I went to Locus, so I had minimal expectations.

As part of the festivities we attended a Q&A session with Ashley Kahn, Grammy award-winning journalist and author of some of the most influential books about jazz: Kind of Blue: The Making of the Miles Davis Masterpiece, The House That Trane Built, and A Love Supreme: The Story of John Coltrane’s Signature Album.

Kahn went deep into the stories behind the musicians. How Miles hooked up with Bill Evans. John Coltrane’s expansion of his musical horizons while working with Davis. On Coltrane, he explained how the musician was more interested in the spiritual journey when it came to his music. Music for him was the search for truth, the search for perfection and also God. Kahn’s passion for jazz was infectious and for a novice like me, meeting Ashley was the perfect antipasti before the main course of the night, Laura Mvula.

I had no clue who she was till I came to Locus. She was terribly shy and soft spoken but when she sang, her voice really soared and sent a shiver down my spine. Complex orchestral arrangements of vocals, piano, strings and brass all combine to create this amazing symphony of sound. Very deep and soulful. If this is jazz, I love it.

The highlight of the final night was Gregory Porter. He had the most amazing voice. Very soulful, beautiful lyrics and powerful. He reminded me of Nat King Cole and also a lot of Marvin Gaye. The crowd would not let him go. One encore. Two encores. He finished the show with a beautiful rendition of Nat King Cole’s Mona Lisa.

Here’s a beautiful video that my friend, Peter Parkorr filmed of Locus Festival that will give you bit of an idea of the magic of Locus and THAT performance by Gregory Porter

Note: Locus has grown well beyond jazz and now mixes soul, hip-hop, electronic and indie. It runs in late July and early August, with some events in iconic venues such as the Grotte di Castellana caves.

Eating lunch at a fishmonger in Ostuni

After a leisurely breakfast we piled into our hire car and headed to the picture postcard town of Ostuni, another one of those impossibly pretty Italian towns.

If you are in Ostuni in time for lunch, head to the Pescheria Il Delfino. It looks quite unremarkable outside but it was packed with locals with not a tourist in sight, which felt like a good sign. Inside, the restaurant also is a working fishmonger.

You can buy your gambas (large prawns), octopus or cuttlefish by the weight and have it grilled for you along with a side order of fries if you wish. I had a delicious seafood pasta with clams and mussels. Puglia definitely is for seafood lovers.

Swimming at Villanova beach

The other great thing about Puglia is that you have 700 km of coastline. So if you are looking for a nice beach, it’s pretty easy to find one. Just a short hop from Ostuni, we found Villanova. Small but lovely beach. Family friendly. The water was warm, clear and good for a swim.

Having my first aperitivo with tarallini!

Afterwards, I had a martini rosso ( first time in my life, was a revelation! ) from the beach bar. Along with the drink I was served the local snack, tarallini. They are crispy little rings of baked dough, seasoned with aromatic fennel seeds. Delicious stuff.

Exploring baroque Martina Franca

Martina Franca is a beautiful town rich in baroque and Moorish influence. I loved just walking around enjoying the rich contrast of architectural styles, which in many ways reflect the layers of history that this region has.

Seeing the trulli of Alberobello

Last but not least, we spent an afternoon roaming the streets of Alberobello with its unique whitewashed trulli houses (1,500 in total) and grey cylindrical roofs. The trulli are truly unique to this part of Puglia and their origins are still a mystery. A wonderful place to wrap up our trip to Puglia.

Locorotondo: Getting there and away

Fly to Bari or Brindisi. A hire car makes day trips easiest. Without one, Locorotondo has its own station on the Ferrovie del Sud Est line from Bari, about two hours and under €10, though some services are replaced by buses, so check before you travel.

Since we are frequent visitors to Athens, over the last few years, Sabrina had been learning Greek diligently via Duolingo but the apps have their limitations and she had started looking for a Greek language tutor in Berlin. Then someone mentioned Preply and we were curious to learn more. The promise of one-to-one lessons and talking to a real person really appealed to her. Here is a review of how her first lesson went, her experience of using Preply, what it costs and whether Preply is worth the investment.

Full disclosure: Preply invited us to review their service but all the views expressed here are entirely our own.

Is Preply perfect for you?

Preply is perfect for you if you want to actually speak a language, not just pick up vocabulary. It suits slow travellers and nomads, anyone who is planning a longer stay somewhere and wants to start a conversation with locals.

You may want to skip Preply if you just need some basic conversational skills, few tourist phrases and want something completely free or cheap plus prefer studying alone at your own pace.

What Is Preply?

Preply is an online platform that matches you with one-to-one language tutors. It covers more than 90 languages. You pick a tutor, book a slot and then meet them on a video call inside the platform. Easy peasy lemon squeezy. There is no fixed course. The lessons shapes itself around what you want to learn. So if you want to practice grammar, pronounciations, vocabulary or key phrases for travel, you choose and are in control.

How It Works

You can browse tutors by language, price, availability and reviews. Preply has also a good choice of languages that include less mainstream European and global languages like Serbian, Armenian and even Bengali!  Every tutor has a profile and a short intro video, so you can hear them before you book.

Book a trial lesson

You also have a chance to try before you commit and have a trial lesson with the tutor and see if their style works for you.

Keep going if you are happy

After the trial, lessons run on a subscription that renews every four weeks. This gives you consistency which helps you get into the flow of learning a language. Plus, you can choose how many lessons you want per week, giving you a lot of flexibility. 

Sabrina’s impressions of Preply

Sabrina has done just the one lesson so far so it is early days but here are some of her early impressions.

–On her tutor, Kiki

“Her English was great. She was very patient and encouraging, and she made the lesson enjoyable. Starting a new language as an adult can be awkward, especially when it is done via a laptop and not face to face but Kiki was very patient, pleasant and easy to converse with.”

In her first lesson which lasted 50 minutes, after a few questions to gauge her level of Greek language, Kiki focussed on running Sabrina through the alphabet, letting her practice her pronunciation and giving her some chance to practice some basic phrases. ( Here is a link to Kiki’s Preply profile if you are keen to learn Greek- we highly recommend her! )

–Chatting to a real tutor one to one

“It was great. You have someone human to talk to instead of doing it yourself plus the one-to-one format pushes you to be prepared for the next lesson.”

–The Canvas: A Digital Chalkboard

The feature that Sabrina liked most was the Canvas. It works like a classroom chalkboard. You see notes appear in real time as the lesson goes on so you don’t have to scramble to write everything down while trying to listen. The notes build as you talk.

–The Interface

We also really love Preply’s interface: user-friendly and intuitive. No faff browsing the site for tutors, then joining the call and first lesson, no tech headaches.

What It Costs

Kiki charges €22 an hour. Prices vary a lot by tutor, language and experience, so you can go cheaper or pricier.

For one-to-one tuition with a native speaker, fitted around your own schedule, we felt that this represents good value, especially compared with a language school, where you’d share the teacher with a room full of people.

Flexibility

Booking slots are very flexible. For slow travellers moving between time zones it is perfect and you can learn from wherever you are. Plus, when you choose a language you can also specify the purpose, whether it is for an exam preparation, business language or paperwork language: so basically every kind of language level you need. Sabrina chose conversational language because she did not need to pass any language test, do exams or work in a office.

Few things to remember

It’s a subscription: After the trial, you’re committing to regular lessons. Great for consistency. Less great if you want to dip in and out.

It costs more than an app : Free apps are free. Preply isn’t. You’re paying for a human, and that’s the value. Also worth having a look at this study that found Preply 9 times more motivating than self-learning language apps

Your tutor makes or breaks it: Sabrina had a wonderful tutor in Kiki. Use the intro videos and the trial lesson properly before you commit.

It is early days: One lesson is all we have to go with at the moment but we will update this review as Sabrina keeps going.

Who Is Preply Best For?

Slow travellers and long stayers who want to connect with a place beyond ordering coffee, Digital nomads and People who learn by speaking rather than by tapping through exercises plus couples

Get 70% off Preply with my discount code!

Use my code KASH70OFF to get 70% off your first Preply lessons and also if you wish to learn Greek with Kiki.

Note, this offer is valid from 2nd October 2026 till 31st March 2027 and only applies to new trail users.

Full disclosure: We were keen to try Preply and then we got a lovely invitation from the team to test, experience and share our review and this review is entirely our own views and experience

If you’re planning a trip to Berlin, then there are a few free apps you should definitely consider downloading to make the most of your time in the city. Here are 6 free iPhone apps for exploring Berlin.

1. For booking accommodation: Airbnb

Not a Berlin-focused app per se, but Airbnb is still one of the best ways to find good-value accommodation and quirky local experiences across Berlin. I’ve stayed in some fantastic Airbnb rentals in Berlin over the years. One honest caveat: Berlin has strict rules on short-term holiday lets. Stick to listings that show a registration number, and read the reviews carefully. If you’re looking for somewhere to stay, do check out my guide to the best budget places to stay in Berlin.

2. For Getting Around

BVG Fahrinfo

If you’re using public transport in Berlin, the official BVG app is still your best bet. Enter your start and end points, or just use your current location, and it shows you live connections by S-Bahn, U-Bahn, bus or tram. It takes delays into account and adjusts accordingly. You can now buy your ticket in the app too, so there’s no more queuing at the machine. It also shows bikes, scooters and car sharing nearby, and you can track your train live on the map. Set up a delay alert and it will tell you if anything changes on your route.

Budget tip: the Deutschlandticket

If you’re in Berlin for a week or more, look at the Deutschlandticket. It’s a monthly subscription that covers all local and regional transport across Germany, including day trips to Potsdam or the Brandenburg lakes. You can cancel it after a month. Currently, it costs €63 a month and you can buy it via the BVG app or Deutsche Bahn app but remember to cancel it straightaway as it is a monthly subscription.

3. For bikes and scooters: Jelbi

Also run by BVG, Jelbi combines public transport with rental bikes, e-scooters and car sharing in one app. It’s handy for the last stretch of a journey, or for a slow cycle along the canal when the weather is kind. Berlin is flat and very bikeable. Just watch out for tram tracks.

4. For local tips: Going Local Berlin

This free app from visitBerlin now offers more than 700 insider tips covering places to see, eat and explore across all 12 of Berlin’s districts. Its real strength is getting you out of Mitte and into the outer districts: Little Venice in Spandau, a hidden theatre in Köpenick, a local workshop in Pankow. You can browse by district, by map or by keyword, save favourites, and use the maps offline. It’s perfect for slow travellers and anyone on their second or third trip to the city.

5. For the Berlin Wall: The Berlin Wall

Wondering if you’re standing in the former East or West? This free app overlays the route of the Wall on a modern map so you can find out instantly. It marks checkpoints, escape routes, remaining traces of the Wall and memorials, each with text, photos and audio. It also suggests tours along the former border and gives you the nearest public transport. It’s a joint project by the Federal Agency for Civic Education, Deutschlandradio and a Potsdam history institute, so the content is fab.

Worth adding: MauAR

This augmented reality app lets you point your phone camera at the street and see the Wall rise up where it once stood. It comes to life on one of the few remaining stretches of the wall on Bernauer Straße.

6. For street art: Berlin ArtWalk

Berlin is full of wonderful street art, but some of it is hard to find if you don’t know where to look. Berlin ArtWalk maps murals and graffiti across the city and offers self-guided walks. It also helpfully marks public toilets and water fountains along the way. It’s a newer independent app, so treat it as a starting point and keep your eyes open. The best pieces often aren’t on any map.

7. For events: Rausgegangen

Ask Helmut, my old favourite, now points to Rausgegangen, which has become the go-to app for what’s on in Berlin. It lists concerts, exhibitions, readings, theatre, club nights and some wonderfully odd one-offs. You can save events, follow venues, and enter ticket raffles. Look out for its own secret gigs too..

And 1 Bonus App!

And 1 bonus app: Organic Maps

This one isn’t Berlin-specific, but it’s one of the best free offline maps I’ve used. It’s built on OpenStreetMap, has no ads, and downloads the whole of Berlin in seconds. It shows everything from U-Bahn stations and parks to cafés, ATMs and public toilets. It’s great if your data runs out or you’re wandering somewhere without signal. Google Maps also lets you save offline areas if you’d rather stick with what you know.

What to eat in Rome ? I invited local, Steve Brenner founder of the fabulous Beehive Hostel and Cross-Pollinate network to spill the beans (or the pasta) and share his favourite Roman dishes, known only to locals. Also checkout my cheap eats guide to Rome, my guide to the best budget places to stay in Rome and also the best things to do in Rome on a budget. 

Since 2000, we were turning away so many people that wanted to stay at our hotel, The Beehive, that we started Cross-Pollinate, a way for us to suggest other places to stay that can be reserved through us. Now operating in 8 European cities we know and love, we make sure we know our properties and their owners so that everything on our site is a personal suggestion. There are loads of resources out there both in print and online of what to eat in Rome: where to find the best Carbonara or enjoy great artisan gelato.  As a long time resident of Rome, I like to tell people about the more subtle, yet wonderful food related things that many visitors overlook or don’t know about.  In no particular order, and jumping around by season, here’s a list of of some my favorite things that are easy to find but often unknown.

1.  Spremuta d’arancia 

Fresh squeezed orange juice

In the winter months you can find this at any coffee bar, and when they use the Sicilian blood oranges, called Tarocchi, it is simply divine.  As a diehard coffee drinker, I like to think of this as second breakfast, or a late morning pick me up.  Get one at the bar – average price is from €2-3.50

2.  Caffè con Panna 

Espresso with fresh cream

This is another winter specialty that you’ll find in many bars.  The beauty of it is that the panna sweetens the coffee so you don’t need more sugar, and it’s kept cold, making the espresso a mix of hot, cold and sweet.  Sometimes you can find other “crema” like zabaglione to put in your coffee.  If in Rome, check out Panella at Via Merulana, 54 near Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore.  They do it well.  Or, if it’s hot out, and you can’t decide between a gelato or a coffee, get an Affogato Al Caffe – usually crema gelato (but you can do it with other flavors), a shot of espresso poured over it, and a dollop of whipped cream.

3.  Cappuccino Freddo

Cold cappuccino

This is a summer thing, and for some reason you only find it in Rome and further south.  If you ask for one north of Rome, they tend to make a hot coffee then try to cool it down with cold milk – which just doesn’t cut it.  In many bars in Rome, the barista makes enough coffee to fill a liter glass bottle and keeps it cold in the refrigerator.  This Caffe Freddo (cold coffee) is already sweetened so a bit is poured into a glass and then cold milk is added. In the summer months, this is literally the most refreshing way to get that early afternoon coffee fix.  It’s basic, small, and perfect.

4.  Grattacheccha 

Shaved ice

In Rome, you can find these stands all along the river Tiber.  They have various syrups, you choose your flavor and then it is poured over shaved ice.  Lemon, when it’s hot out, is a real life saver.  It’s not exactly the same as a granita which has a smoother consistency, and is a Sicilian thing.  If in Sicily, a coffee or almond granita is the way to go.

5.  Supplì

 This is an afternoon and evening snack that is found more commonly in Rome. Take risotto rice made either with tomato sauce or ragù (a tomato-based meat sauce) and form it into a ball.  Stick a piece of mozzarella in the center, bread it and deep fry it.  These are typical starters in pizzerie and can be found in bakeries as well.  My absolute favorite are made at Panificio Roscioli just off Piazza Vittorio a Via Buonarotti 48.  Pizzeria Emma at Via del Monte della Farina, 28 near Largo Torre Argentina makes a great one too.  Supplizio at Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 143 has a whole menu devoted to different kinds.  In the south, there are cone shaped versions called Arancini, which are made with a variety of ingredients with rice that is typically flavored with saffron.

6.  Olive Ascolane 

Stuffed, fried olives

This appetizer is from the Le Marche region and is another typical starter in pizzerie.  They are large green olives stuffed with a pork mixture then breaded and deep fried.  Unfortunately, many places use frozen ones, but when made in-house, these too are a great way to ease into a night of pizza induced gluttony.

7.  Prosciutto e Melone 

Prosciutto and melon

In the summer, when cantaloupe is really ripe and juicy, this is a typical appetizer in Roman trattorias.  Very simple – just a few slices of melon with prosciutto on top.  If you’ve never had, it might be life-changing, because even the biggest failure in the kitchen can successfully reproduce this one.

8.  Fiori di Zucca 

Stuffed zucchine flowers

Zucchine plants, when they grow, have a long, pretty flower on the front, which in Italy are often stuffed with cheese and anchovies, then battered and fried.  Sometimes a pizzeria thing, sometimes found in restaurants, they’re a great addition to the fried wonderland that can begin a meal.

9.  Carciofi alla Romana 

Roman artichokes

So these might not be that unknown, but I find that many people still find artichokes to be a bit foreign.  Many visitors think of artichokes as those things you pull the leaves off of, dip in butter, and then suck on.  Italian artichokes are eaten whole – stem, choke and all.  They are sometimes fried (alla Giudea – which is Jewish style) or they are stuffed with wild mint and garlic and braised until they can be cut easily with a fork (alla Romana).  This is the way I love them, as a side dish, and they can be found in most restaurants around Rome when artichokes are in season, which luckily is a long season – most of winter and through spring.

10.  Saltimbocca alla Romana 

Veal cutlet with ham and sage

In my opinion, this is the King of all meat dishes. It’s simply one of the simplest, yet most satisfying of the Roman “secondi”.  You take a thin piece of veal, put a bit of fresh sage on, then a piece of prosciutto ham.  You dredge it in flour and sauté it in butter and oil.  Then you deglaze the pan with white wine and pour the sauce over it.  This is a perfect example of a traditional dish that simply can’t be improved on.

11.  Aperol Spritz

This is part of the family of Italian “aperitivi”, a drink consumed before a meal that can be alcoholic or non-alcoholic.  Think of it as what you go get when it’s too early to eat, or when you’re waiting for a table in your restaurant of choice.  A Spritz is a combo of prosecco, soda and Aperol – a non-alcoholic, orange flavored bitter.  Although this is probably the most famous, and the lightest and easiest to like, you can get one with Campari instead of Aperol, for a bit more alcohol.  Or go for a Negroni: a mix of Campari, gin and Martini Rosso.  If you want to go classic, you can always just order a glass of prosecco.  Along with your drink you’ll be served anything from a bowl of nuts to a nice little spread of pizzette and finger foods.

12. Puntarelle

Here’s a rare one.  It’s a salad green that’s pointy and curly and usually mixed with an anchovy dressing.  Easy to find and really tasty, but relatively unknown.  This too is seasonal.

13.  Frappe / Chiacchiere and Castagnole 

These are sweets made around the time of Carnevale.  The Castagnole are basically donut holes – sometimes filled with a cream and sometimes plain. The Frappe are flat, fried sweet dough covered in powdered sugar.  Some are baked, but those are totally inferior to the fried version.

14.  Pan d’Oro 

This is a Christmas and New Year’s sweet bread that’s kind of like Panettone – another Christmas cake, but without the candied fruit inside.  It’s tall and shaped like a star on top and you’re supposed to open the powdered sugar and then put it back in the bag and shake it around.  It makes incredible French toast the next day, and it’s also nice toasted and eaten with jam.  It’s not really something you find in restaurants, but it’s the go-to gift that people give each other around the holidays and in grocery stores during the holidays you will literally see mountains of them.

15.  Fragole al Limone 

Strawberries with lemon

Typical in the spring, this is a great example of how Italian restaurants practice “simple is better” to fruit when it’s in season and delicious already.  Much like a fruit salad (macedonia), strawberries are served mixed with some lemon juice and sugar and served in a small bowl.  When in season, it can compete with even the best tiramisù.

16.  Digestivi

After-dinner digestive drinks

I’ll end the list here, because it’s how I like to end a long, heavy meal!  There’s a few kinds.  If you like sweet, go for limoncello – made with lemons, alcohol and sugar and served cold.  If you want to go hardcore – get a grappa.  This is a distilled alcohol made from the leftover grapes once they’ve been pressed for wine.  If you want to try something in the middle, order an “amaro” which means “bitter”.  There’s a few kinds – Lucano and Averna are our favorites. They’re strong, earthy and have a great tickle going down.  All the of these are to be sipped – not drank like a shot.

Creative Commons attribution

Photo of  ‘Cafe Freddo’ by Mararie  http://bit.ly/1Ljv9H2  ,”Allafontedoro” by Lucahope  http://bit.ly/1BK5hlv, “Saltimbocca alla Romana” by Cyclonebill http://bit.ly/1QO8maQ & “Castagnole” photo by Fugzu http://bit.ly/1fxC42Z

1. Bachmann Bakery 

Address: Two branches at Lucerne train station (main hall and basement), plus Schwanenplatz 7, 6004 Luzern

Beloved family bakery since 1897, perfect for grabbing fresh sandwiches and local pastries before a hike or train ride

If you are planning a day trip hiking up Mount Rigi or Pilates and looking for a nice lunch sandwich or snack on the go from the train station, Bachmann Bakery which has been serving locals since 1897, is the place to go. Besides a range of tasty filling sandwiches, if you have a sweet tooth, you can sample local specialities like the local Birnenwegge, a puff pastry with a spiced pear puree filling or the Bündner Nusstorte, a traditional Swiss tart from Graubünden.

2. Chäs Barmettler

Address: Hertensteinstrasse 2, 6004 Luzern

Old Town cheese shop famous for its hot Chäschüechli tartlets, a 2 CHF bargain baked fresh on a street-side oven

The ultimate bargain for foodies has to be the hot cheescake tartlets aka Chäschüechli which you can buy at Chäs Barmettler for only 2 CHF. It is a must in Lucerne.

3. Mezzogiorno Lucerne

Address: Hirschengraben 33b, 6003 Luzern

Organic grocery shop known for its 12.50 CHF vegetarian lunch takeaway and occasional Too Good to Go surprise bags at 4.90 CHF

Part of a network of organic and specialty food shops with three locations in Switzerland, if you are lookin for organic, homemade vegetarian food, their 12.50 CHF lunch takeaway offer where you can choose from 2-3 dishes, is a great offer. They also sometimes offer a surprise bag from Too Good to Go for 4.90 CHF.

4. Goki

Address: Zürichstrasse 38, 6004 Luzern

Family-run restaurant famed for its scratch-made Pho Bo, alongside solid curries and rice dishes

While curries ( start from 17 CHF) and the rice dishes are fantastic here, the undisputed star of this family run restaurant is their Pho Bo: broth is made from scratch and flavourful ( 22 CHF )

5. Wirtshaus Galliker 

Address: Schützenstrasse 1, 6003 Luzern

Family-run since 1856, this wood-panelled inn serves traditional Lucerne classics like Chögelipastetli and calf’s head

If you are looking to sample traditional Swiss cuisine in Lucerne, this is the place. Serving hungry locals since 1856 the Galliker family’s closely guarded recipes and key to their popularity are a range of dishes on the menu, from Tête de veau, tripe, potato rösti with bratwurst sausages and onion sauce to traditional local puff pastry pies (my choice, served with a mushroom sauce-so good).

6. Chapter Lucerne

Address: Löwenplatz 11, 6004 Luzern

Capsule Hostel near the Lion Monument with a solid in-house menu, including budget flammkuchen, pizza and Thursday pizza-and-beer night

If you are looking for a nice bite to eat in the Chapter Lucerne hostel, you can treat yourself to their excellent flammkuchen (14 CHF)  or pizzas (14-18 CHF) along with a glass of wine (6.80 CHF) or beer (5.50 CHF). Also worth remembering that on Thursdays it is pizza and beer night at the hostel from 5-10pm, for the bargain price of 15 CHF.

7. Banh Mi Pho

Address: Furrengasse 15, Lucerne 6004 Switzerland

Nice bao, noodle dishes but their signature dish are their much loved Banh Mi’s ( starts from 12.90 CHF ) – crispy baguette, super fresh ingredients and nice staff too.

8. Onkel Salamat

Address:  Brünigstrasse 19, 6005 Luzern, Switzerland

The food at Onkel Salamat is as close to authentic Persian cuisine you will find in Switzerland and is like dining at someone’s home. Rich in Persian influence and mostly plant-based, the food here, aka mezze is perfect for sharing and reasonably priced. Mezze here ranges from Zeytoone Parvardeh Pickled green and black olives with nut pesto ( 6.50 CHF) , Muhammara with Nan Barbari ( Dip made with walnuts, roasted bell peppers, and pomegranate- 11.50 CHF ) Falafel-Chickpea balls with sesame sauce ( 8.50 CHF) to Abre soorkh schodeh– Cauliflower in beer batter with yogurt and herb sauce: Cauliflower in beer batter with yogurt and herb sauce ( 9.50 CHF)

9. Bar Frankys

Address: Ground floor of Hotel Alpina, Frankenstrasse 6, 6003 Luzern

Friendly cocktail bar near the station with stone-baked pizzas from next door, great music and one of Switzerland’s rare smokers’ bars

If you are looking for friendly service, great cocktails and good music, Franky’s is the place to go to in Lucerne. Located on the ground floor of the Hotel Alpina, not far from the train station, you will find the bar. Besides a great range of spirits, they also service really delicious stone baked pizzas, courtesy of their neighbours, La Bestia ( Not cheap but you can get a marinara pizza for 20 CHF ) . It is that kind of place where you will make friends and end up having a few beers. This is ,however, a smokers’ bar, a rare exception in smoke-free Switzerland so keep that in mind.

10. Shamrock Bar

Address: Wagenbachgasse 3, 6004 Luzern

Cosy Irish pub in the heart of the Old Town, known for draft Guinness and its legendary 1 CHF chicken wings on Mondays

When asking locals, their favorite local bars, Shamrock’s name came up a few times. You stand at the bar, grab a local beer on Guinness on draft if that’s your drink of choice and if you stay long enough, by the end of the night, everyone at the bar and in the pub is your friend – that’s how nice it is. On Mondays they run their legendary chicken wings night where they cost just 1 CHF-bargain for Switzerland. Daily menu also offers homemade soup with soda bread for 9 CHF.

PS If you are planning a trip to Switzerland , here is my brand new guide to Switzerland on a budget , my guide to Zurich on a budget and also checkout my guide to the best free things to do in Basel and the best things to do in Chur

1. Visit the Musegg Wall

Address: Auf Musegg, 6004 Luzern

Medieval fortification stretching 870m with nine towers, offering sweeping views over the Old Town, lake and Alps

An ancient fortification that protected the city in medieval times, serves as a historic landmark, a home to Lucerne’s wildlife and an excellent place to take in the views of the city and the surrounding mountains. Nestled in the heart of the Old Town and stretching over an incredible 800 metres, navigating the Musegg Wall and its nine towers is a wonderful way to drink in Lucerne’s history. The 31 metre high, Zyt tower houses a clock face on its exterior that can be viewed from as far away as the Lake. Jackdaws, common lizards and insects call this well preserved wall, their home, and is undoubtedly one of Lucerne’s best preserved historical. Keep in mind that during the winter months (November-March), the Wall and Towers remains closed for visitors. 

2. Visit the Lion Monument

Address: Denkmalstrasse 4, 6006 Luzern

Moving rock-relief memorial to the Swiss Guards, carved into a cliff face in a quiet park

The ‘Lion of Lucerne’ designed by Bertel Thorvaldsen, is a moving tribute to those Swiss Guards who perished in battle, during the French Revolution. The rock relief carved into the cliff face is a spectacular 10 metres long and 6 metres high but rather than the size of the sculpture, or the grandeur of the carving, it is the expression of mortal pain on the lion’s face that is the most arresting. Situated in a city park in the centre of town , the stunning grotto with the poignant sandstone carving allows visitors to step back in time and pay homage to the lives of six hundred brave souls.

3. The wooden bridges of Lucern-Chapel Bridge and Chaff Bridge

Address: Kapellbrücke, 6002 Luzern

Europe’s oldest covered wooden bridge, its interior lined with historic paintings of Lucerne’s story

Lucerne’s Chapel Bridge is Europe’s oldest covered bridge. Made from wood, the footbridge traverses the River Reuss diagonally, and its gorgeous interior paintings depict several scenes from Lucerne’s history. The beautiful bridge suffered fire damage in 1993 and several of the paintings were destroyed at the time but have now been lovingly restored. The bridge stands as a symbol for the city and its central Water Tower and the bridge with masses of colourful hanging flowers – are emblematic of the city’s beauty. 

The smaller, less well-known Chaff Bridge is not to be ignored. This bridge also contains a number of panelled paintings although the theme of some of these paintings is death and the ever changing cycle of life. Built later than Chapel Bridge, not only is Chaff Bridge shorter, the purpose of its building was to connect the flour mills to the Old Town. Bread was made in bakeries in the New Town, to lessen the chance of a fire breaking out in the Old town, and the Chaff Bridge was an important means of connecting the people of Old Town with an important source of sustenance.

4. Swim in the Lake at Ufschötti

Address: Alpenquai, 6005 Luzern

A 200m sandy strip on Lake Lucerne, ideal for a summer swim, picnic or barbecue

If you are a sun worshipper and crave the feel of a sandy beach between your toes, then look no further – a dip in Lake Lucerne is possible during the summer months at the swathe of green space known as as the Ufschötti. The park is south of Lucerne’s main train station and consists of a strip of sand 200 metres long, adjacent to the Lake. Have a picnic in the green space behind the beach, shaded by trees or enjoy a barbecue. During the summer months, a beach bar serves hot and cold drinks. Other amenities include toilets as well as showers to be used after a refreshing dip in the Lake. Sip on a cold drink and look onto the beauty of Lake Lucerne, shrouded by mountains in the background .

5. Visit the painted squares of the old Town of Lucerne

One of the best things about strolling through the Old Town of Lucerne is its pedestrian only streets, enabling the visitor to take their time, drinking in the historical sights – one of which is the incredibly beautiful painted squares scattered about town. Start at the Weinmarkt, originally the site of a fish market, but now pay special attention to the beautiful fountain with its octagonal basin and column made of limestone. Of note are the frescoes on the façade of the Hotel des Balances and also the special fresco depicting the miracle of Jesus turning water into wine. At the Hirschenplatz, you will find the Kornmarkt – a trading hall, a granary and then the Town Hall – in its long history. Do pay attention to the facades of the historical houses in the square. The Mühlenplatz is Lucerne’s largest historic square, but it is Kapellplatz that is home to the colourful Fritschi Fountain. 

6. Go shopping at one of the many excellent 2nd Hand clothing shops in Lucerne

1. FIZZEN Lucerne

Address: Löwengraben 15, 6004 Luzern

Curated mix of vintage and new fashion pieces, accessories and quirky gifts, with sister outlets in Basel, Bern and Zürich

Mixture of well curated fashion pieces, both brand new and vintage plus accessories and unique gifts make this a must visit in Lucerne. They have outlets in Basel, Bern and Zürich too.Second-hand clothing shop for women and men, also running upcycling and patching workshops

2. The Secondhand

Address: Bruchstrasse 45, 6003 Luzern

Second-hand clothing shop for women and men, also running upcycling and patching workshops

At The Secondhand there is a nice selection of second-hand clothing for women and men.The Secondhand also conducts workshops where you learn how to patch or even color your favorite piece.

3. Ziitlos

Address: Mythenstrasse 7 (and Industriestrasse 17), 6004/6005 Luzern

Second Hand: quite retro

In the Ziitlos branches at Mythenstrasse 7 in Lucerne and Industriestrasse 17, the name says it all. Here everyone who is looking for the very special outfit from days past in Lucerne or wants to browse for cool unique items will find what they are looking for. Stylish home and fashion accessories can also be discovered in the small, fine second hand shops.

For a few francs more..

7. Swiss Transport Museum

Address: Lidostrasse 5, 6006 Luzern

Switzerland’s most popular museum, covering cars, trains, boats, aircraft and space, with a planetarium and cinema

One of Switzerland’s most popular museums, the Swiss Transport Museum is dedicated to documenting and exhibiting all things related to modes of transport – cars, trains, boats and aircraft. The presence of a planetarium and a cinema complete the museum experience. Exhibits include various reconstructions of Swiss rail lines, examples of road vehicles, a Car Theatre, a Space exhibit house, various Swiss aircraft, aerial cableway exhibits, and lastly a collection of artworks by Swiss artist Hans Erni. Swiss Travel Pass holders get up to 50 % discount for museum entry.

Where to stay in Lucerne on a budget

Capsule Hotel Chapter Lucerne

Capsule Hotel Chapter Lucerne is a fantastic option to have in terms of price, location and the facilities. Nestled in the heart of the city, steps from the iconic Chapel Bridge, Lion Monument, the Old Town plus with a Coop supermarket next door, the location is perfect. 

The innovative pod-style beds, inspired by Japanese capsule hotels but featuring Swiss design, are arranged in double-decker configuration. For additional privacy, you can opt for a lower pod by paying a small premium.

Accessibility is prioritized with a specialized wheelchair-accessible pod. The hostel offers gender-segregated shower and restroom facilities, plus a fully accessible bathroom for guests with disabilities.

Security is managed through smart technology – each pod’s sliding door locks via a smartphone app using Bluetooth, or alternatively through a 4-digit PIN provided at check-in. This single system grants access to both your room and individual pod.

Inside each pod, you’ll find thoughtful amenities: a plush mattress, adjustable lighting, mirror, and garment hooks. A whisper-quiet ventilation system ensures comfort, while the interior decor features cloud murals overhead and Swiss Alpine imagery, adding a local touch to your stay. Luggage and footwear can be stored beneath the bottom pods, with cable locks available for security. A separate luggage storage room provides an additional storage option.

Then there is the stunning shared space, a glass-walled lounge which shapeshifts from peaceful morning coffee spot to perfect coworking spot to evening entertainment hub.

Whether you’re looking to get some work done, read a book from their wonderful library of books on their comfy leather sofa, join the weekly movie nights, catch a comedy show, or bond with fellow guests over board games, there’s always something for guests here.

There is an onsite bar where you can enjoy baked goods, pizza, flammkuchen at an affordable price plus a selection of wines, beers and soft drinks if you are thirsty. At under 80 CHF a night, Chapter Lucerne proves that thoughtful design, comfort, and community does not need to come with a luxury price tag.

Plus, you can get 15% off your stay with the code: CAPSULE15  at the Capsule Hotel Chapter Lucerne and at any of their other locations , which currently include Zurich and Basel

1. Enjoy the amazing Street Art

Basel has a diverse and interesting street art scene and everywhere you walk in the city, you will find an eclectic mix of murals, graffiti and installations, especially on the outskirts of the city. You will find striking graffiti and murals along the tracks between the Swiss SBB railway station and Schwarzwaldbrücke bridge, as well as around Schänzli near St. Jakob-Park and the Sommercasino. The harbour also features impressive street art. Additionally, the Bell site showcases Basel’s largest installation, a 1,700 m² wall created by over 30 artists during the Change of Colours event in August 2020.

Here are my favourite spots:

1. Gerbergässlein

4001 Basel

Commissioned by the rock bar L’Unique across the alley, this is probably Basel’s most famous street artwork – it is a massive artwork featuring an array of world famous musicians, from the Beatles to Jimi Hendrix to Ozzy.

2. Malaga loves Basel – Kohlenberg

Kohlenberg 13, Basel

Dest Jones from Basel and urban artist Lalone from Malaga both created this mural as a homage to Pablo Picasso and his influence on the cities of Basel and Malaga.

3. Sommercasino

Münchensteinerstrasse 1,

4052 Basel

A former society house dating from the 19th century, the Sommercasino besides being a popular hotspot for concerts and parties, is also a popular hangout spot for local graffiti artists and you will find some impressive artworks and motifs on the entire facade.

4. Space Invaders

Clarastrasse, 4005 Basel

Across Basel you will find 20 Space Invaders by Paris based Invader, a leading light of the urban art world. Of the 20 pieces, the most famous one is in Kleinbasel, around the Corner from the Messe Basel. Created in 2019, “The Golden Pot of the Art World”, is one of the biggest in the world.

5. Port

Uferstrasse, 4057 Basel

Along the remote edges of Klybeck right upto the “border triangle” aka Dreiländereck where the three countries meet, you will find a great mix of murals and graffiti art adorning everything from the walls of industrial buildings to freight Wagons and also in the culture space, Holzpark Klybeck.

2. Museums you can visit for free in Basel

– Kunstmuseum Basel

Kunstmuseum Basel houses the second largest public art collection in Switzerland, after the Kunsthaus Zürich and is listed as a heritage site of national significance.Its lineage extends back to the Amerbach Cabinet, which included a collection of works by Hans Holbein purchased by the city of Basel and the University of Basel in 1661, which made it the first municipally owned and therefore, open to the public museum in the world. Its collection is distinguished by an impressively wide historic span, from the early 15th century up to the immediate present. Its various areas of emphasis give it international standing as one of the most significant museums of its kind. These encompass: paintings and drawings by artists active in the Upper Rhine region between 1400 and 1600, and on the art of the 19th to 21st centuries.

The collection can be visited for free on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 5 to 6 p.m., Wednesdays and Fridays from 5 to 8 p.m., and the first Sunday of each month.

– Museum Tinguely

A visit to Museum Tinguely is a must for an insight into the life and genius of Jean Tinguely, one of Basels most celebrated citizens for his pioneering work in the field of kinetic works.

Spanning his career which last more than 4 decades, the museum is the largest collection of his works, from early, filigree reliefs to his monumental machine sculptures from the 1980s.

Inspired by Tinguely, Museum Tinguely is very playful and interactive, hosting diverse events and exhibitions that will bring out your inner artist.

The museum is free to visit late on Thursdays between 6 – 9 pm.

– Hoosesaggmuseum

In the heart of the charming and steep Imbergässlein, once the street of Basel’s spice merchants, lies the fascinating Hoosesaggmuseum (Pants Pocket Museum). There’s no entry fee, but also no entrance possible to this museum- the entire collection is displayed within a two-foot-by-two-foot window in the door of Dagmar and Matthias Vergeat’s 600-year-old home, tucked away in this narrow pedestrian alley in Basel’s Old Town.

This unique museum showcases miniature collections small enough to fit in your pocket. Anyone with a private collection of tiny objects of more than 30 items can display them here for a limited time, adding a personal and whimsical touch to the exhibits.

3. See Niki de Saint Phalle sculpture at Solitude Park

On our way back from Museum Tinguely, we strolled through the beautiful Solitude Park ( Later discover that Niki Saint de Phalle and Tinguely were partners in life and art, the ‘Bonnie and Clyde of the Art World’ ) we discovered one of Niki de Saint Phalle’s colorful painted polyester sculptures. I’m a huge fan of her buxom, bold and beautiful sculptures and followed her work ever since I saw an exhibition of hers in Nice and Hanover. So this was a really cool discovery.

4. Go for a swim down the Rhine River

In late spring and summer, the most popular thing that locals do to relax and cool down, is to go for a swim down the Rhine river. Everytime we walked down Kleinbasel, we saw people of all ages drifting down the river. Most people use their “Wickelfisch”, a swim bag where they can store their clothes and valuables securely, to float down on the gentle current through the city. There are plenty of places on Kleinbasel to dry yourself. I was super impressed at the number of showers and toilet facilities along the river – this city really knows how to enjoy summer. Plus, don’t forget all the marvellous buvettes for enjoying an ice cold drink. Our tip is Flora, which has a great selection of affordable wines and beers on tap.

Note: You can hire a Wickelfisch from the Basel Tourism Information Point for 10 CHF. Also worth remembering, sometimes the current can be pretty strong so it is advisable to check conditions before you go for a dip – Basel tourism website is a good place to check.

5. Hop on a Rhine River Ferry for just 2 CHF!

Not free but pretty much free at just 2 CHF- hop on a Rhine Cruise for the princely sum of 2 Swiss francs which lets you cross the river in Basel: Choose from the four Rhine river ferries “Wild Maa”, “Leu”, “Vogel Gryff” and “Ueli”, which all link the Grossbasel to Kleinbasel. Attached to a long wire cable, the boats are driven purely by the current of the Rhine itself.

1 of 4 ferries to cross the Rhine: after roaming the scenic area of St Alban, an upscale residential district of Basel dotted with villas and Gothic and baroque merchants’ houses, we hopped on the Wilde Maa ferry from St Alban in Grossbasel to Kleinbasel.

6. Exploring Klybeck

If you are looking for something bit more alternative, then I definitely recommend a visit to the former industrial district of Klybeck on the banks of the Rhine, which has been a popular magnet for artists and culture lovers since it was formed back in 2014. Holzpark Klybeck which reminds me a lot of Holzmarkt25 in Berlin has lots of cool street art pieces and is packed with pop-up bars and restaurants made from shipping containers and wooden pallets. I recommend having a beer or cocktail at the friendly Patschifig. Also, recommend the rustic Landstelle, by the Rhine river next to Holzpark for a refreshing beer or cocktail after a dip in the river from the nearby jetty.

7. Visit the Basel Munster

Together with the Mittlere Brücke, the Basler Münster (Cathedral) is probably the most famous landmark in Basel. With its red sandstone walls, colourful roof tiles and twin towers, no other building adorns the cityscape of Basel like the Cathedral. The former episcopal church, was built between the years 1019 and 1500 in the Romantic and Gothic styles. The crypt, the chancel, the tomb of Erasmus of Rotterdam, the Gallus gate and the two cloisters are witness to a fascinating tale of construction over a period of several centuries. The piazza in which the Cathedral stands is today a popular meeting place and is often used for concerts and events.

Tip: Visit ‘The Pfalz‘

At the back of the Munster, we discover the Pfalz , a terrace that offering wonderful views over the Rhine and one of the most popular viewpoints in the city. From the terrace we could see the ‘Reaction Ferries’ crossing the Rhine river and since we needed to hop to Kleinbasel, we decided to try them out.

8.  Basel for free- take a self guided walking tour

If you are short on time and prefer the independence of exploring the city on foot at your own pace, then the free Basel City App is the one you should download. There is a wealth of history and stories in every corner of Basel’s Old Town and this app, gives you the lowdown of all the stories and places you can discover. You have 5 different walking tours to choose from and they all start and finish on the Marktplatz.

9. Basel Nightlife for almost free

Basel’s nightlife punches above its weight for a city of its size. There’s something for everyone. You will find a nice mix of easygoing pubs and also cozy, dimly lit bars spread through the the  ever-popular Steinenvorstadt to the lively Rheingasse to the hip Klybeck district. If you are on a tight budget and avoid expensive drink prices of bars, join the locals for their after work drink by the Rhine river ( grab a drink from Migros or Coop ) at Landstelle.

10. Visit the epic Johann Wanner Christmas Store

I lived in Edinburgh for many years and one of the novelties you can find in the city is not one but three year round Christmas shops. However in terms of scale and variety, this shop ( just around the corner from Tapas del Mar ) was astounding. I don’t think I’ve ever been to Xmas shop like this. If you are the person who lives and dreams of Xmas, then you will love this place.

11. Explore Basel for free with the BaselCard

Getting around Basel is a dream, thanks to its efficient and well-connected transport system. The city’s backbone is its extensive tram and bus network, run by BVB. Trams crisscross the city, while buses fill in the gaps.

Visitors staying at any hostel, hotel or guesthoise get a fantastic perk – the Basel Card is for free! This magic card allows you free use of public transport and discounts on attractions.

Besides free public transport across the city, you also get a 25% discount on a range of attractions — including Basel’s museums, the zoo, Theater Basel (box-office tickets only, excluding premières and special/guest performances), the sightseeing bus tour, guided Old Town walking tours (reservation needed), a workshop tour at Jakob’s Leckerly, public day boat trips with Basler Personenschifffahrt, the Reigoldswil-Wasserfallen cable car, and Nordstern (box-office tickets only, subject to availability). On top of that, cardholders can rent an e-bike at the SBB railway station through Guest Bike Basel for CHF 25 a day.

1. Sapori Del Sud

Address: Spalenvorstadt 34, 4051 Basel

Beloved Italian-Sicilian takeaway near Spalentor, famous for pastrami sandwiches and arancini

Right next to the Spalentor lies a slice of Italian and Sicilian heaven – Sapori Del Sud is a takeaway run by the affable Antonio Russo and his mother, Grazia who specialise in preparing paninos and their signature pastrami sandwiches, which in a bite takes me back to New York. The prices are very reasonable – 11 CHF for a Jumbo Sandwich, which is enough to feed two people

2. Coop Restaurant Basel Pfaufen

Address: Freie Strasse 75, 4051 Basel

Self-service Coop buffet restaurant atop the Pfauen department store, pay-by-weight salad and hot buffet

Whether you are looking for takeaway sandwiches, snacks or a proper sit down meal, Coop is your life saviour in Switzerland. If you are looking for simple, affordable meal in Basel with lots of good options that include their signature salad buffet plus chicken and fish, prepared on demand in front of your eyes, then definitely pop into Coop Restaurant at the top of the Pfaufen department store on Freie Strasse, Basel’s popular shopping street. The buffet which you pay by weight and plate size, includes plenty of vegan/ veggie options that include fresh salads and self-serve dishes to sandwiches, soups, desserts and both sweet and savoury snacks. For a stacked plate from the buffet with a mix of items, expect to pay around 15 CHF. It can get crowded around lunch time so be prepared to wait a little. They also have daily value specials that range from pastas to Asian classic dishes. Currently they are offering Fried Halloumi on Mediterranean-style rice for just 9.95 CHF or Arabic casserole with aubergines, tofu, herby bulgur and cucumber salad with pomegranate for 13.95 CHF. If you are looking for a great breakfast buffet, they also offer a all-you-can-eat breakfast for CHF 19.95 per person- you can refill your plate and cup as often as you like, until 10.30. Plus they do a coffee and cake combo from 2pm everyday for 5.95 CHF too.

3. Buon Gusto Streetfood Basel

Address: Marktplatz, 4001 Basel

Food truck serving Sicilian-inspired burgers and steak paninis

Dominated by its vibrant rouge red 16th century town hall, the Marktplatz is a definitely worth wandering, especially during the week when there’s a busy weekly market on where locals come to buy fresh vegetables, fruit and flowers. If you are looking for good quality burgers and panini sandwiches at the market at a reasonable price, then Buon Gusto Streetfood truck is a popular choice with locals and visitors. Burgers ( veggie, cheeseburger ) and Paninis ( include famous steak panini ) start at 13.50 CHF and portion of fries is 5 CHF.

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4. Pilz Hüsli

Address: Marktplatz, 4001 Basel

Mushroom and truffle specialist stand also serving risotto and pasta dishes

If you are a mushroom and pasta lover, then the Pilz Hüsli food truck at the Marktplatz is also a great choice. Open from Monday to Saturdaym ( till 2.30pm ) besides offering fresh and dried mushrooms, they also serve an inexpensive delicious lunch, from an excellent mushroom risotto to a four cheese ravioli with mushroom sauce, all from 13 CHF.

5. Mum’s Kitchen

Address: Margarethenstrasse 45, 4053 Basel

Cosy Vietnamese restaurant near the SBB train station, known for pho and lunch menus

Close to the main train station, this Vietnamese restaurant offers a lunch menu offer of a choice of main dishes ( from thai red curry chicken to fried tofu with veggies ) and water for 18 CHF. Good price-quality ratio for Basel

6. Za Zaa

Address: Petersgraben 15, 4051 Basel

Stylish Syrian-Lebanese restaurant for mezze, salads, hummus and falafel

A stylish Syrian-Lebanese eatery in the heart of Basel, Za Zaa  offers a nice range of dishes, from homemade soups ( Yellow Lentil soup with Curkuma: 9.50 CHF) to traditional salads ( from 12.50 CHF) , excellent hummus, both cold and warm mezze and great falafel teller. ( from 23.50 CHF)

7. Lily Maxim

Address: Rebgasse 1, 4058 Basel

Modern Asian eatery blending Thai, Indian and Chinese dishes

Serving a mix of classic Thai, Indian and Chinese dishes, if you are looking for an  unpretentious dining experience with fast, good service, then you will like Lily Maxim. The food is adapted to local tastes but there is a good range of condiments to customise the dish to your style. Curries ( Thai Green or Red of Yellow Curry start from 23.50 and their Lentil Dahl Curry is 19.50 CHF)

8. Klara

Address: Clarastrasse 13, 4058 Basel

Kleinbasel food court with nine international kitchens around a central bar

Another excellent option for dining is Klara, a food court that serves culinary treats from Japan, Argentina, Thailand and Africa. Locals rave about the hummus and pita from Yoya Pitabar and the pasta and pinsa from Lamia Pastaria. Our pick of the bunch was the Vietnamese Diner, Nón Lá Vietnamese Corner. Sabrina loved the Bun Bo Nam Bo ( 24.30 CHF with 10% discount for takeaway ) and I tried the Banh Mi with their special lemongrass chicken ( 16 CHF) and it was fab.

9. Markthalle

Address: Steinentorberg 20, 4051 Basel

Historic market hall turned lively international food court near the train station

Located near the train station in a beautiful listed building that originally served as the local market lies the Markthalle. Since 2014 it has been repurposed into an international food Court featuring dishes from all around the world at very reasonable prices. There is a great variety of choice here,  from delicious empanadas to ceviche to kebabs and also delicious curries. When we visited, late on the weekend, we also found an excellent local preloved clothes market packed with locals.

10. Coffee at Café Unternehmen

Address: Gerbergasse 30, 4001 Basel

Grand former-bank coffee house is “Basel’s living room” with organic lunches, cakes and coworking space

This architectural gem dating back to 1912 was formerly the Swiss Volksbank and is Basels unofficial living room where you will find people hunched over their laptops working away, tired shoppers lounging on the stylish Eames chairs sipping on coffee or locals enjoying their excellent terrace, scoffing one of their delicious range of cakes and pastries.

11. Jakob’s Basler Leckerly

No trip to Basel is complete without sampling the famous Basler Leckerli biscuits, a ginger biscuit popular in the region that reminded us a lot of the popular German Xmas treat, Lebkuchen gingerbread cookies. The place to try the Basler Leckerli is Jakob’s Basler Leckerly, the oldest biscuit manufacturer in Switzerland, dating back to 1753.

Berlin has one of the most democratic drinking cultures in Europe

No matter wherever I travel in the world, I miss Berlin’s bar culture. Name a city in Western Europe where you can do drinking across multiple areas for less than €10? Berlin’s bar scene is incredibly diverse – on a typical evening you would start with a €1 sterni from the neighbourhood Späti, proceed to a classic bar, and then prop up the bar at a classic Kneipe where the same family has been pulling pints for over a century.

Spätis are the cornerstone of Berlin’s 24/7 nightlife scene, where strangers meet and become friends. This is where the Friday night starts with a wegbier, a €1 Sternburg beer to go, ( In fact there is a Spati to the left of Schonhause Apotheke on Danziger Strasse that has Sterni for €0.70 ) and where the party often ends. Späti culture is one of the reasons why Berlin still is one of the cheapest nights out in Europe.

Kneipes, meanwhile, are like a time travel capsule to a different era – the photos on the wall, the sense that this room has absorbed a hundred years of conversation and smoke. The word Kneipe comes from the German word “kneipen”, which means to pinch or squeeze, a nod to how these tightly packed places were filled with working class, hardworking people, poets, artists and lowlifes, all gathered together for one purpose: to drink cheap beer and talk till the cows come home. Checkout my guide to best bars in Berlin.

Is Berlin cheap or expensive?

Is Berlin cheap or expensive? From the cost of a night stay in a hostel to a cost of a beer in Berlin to the price of a public transport ticket, I summarise it in this guide on how much does it cost to visit Berlin

Berlin is still one of Europe’s most affordable capitals for food

Currywurst stands, Turkish kofteci sandwiches, the best Banh Mi, falafel rolls with peanut sauce – Berlin has an incredible streetfood culture. My favourite is Sahara Imbiss, a Sudanese takeaway that’s been one of my favourite Berlin cheap eats since 2010: fresh falafel, halloumi, kofta, chicken or fohl beans, all topped up with their signature peanut sauce, for €4 a steal. Given the city is home to the biggest Turkish community outside Turkey, don’t leave without trying a legendary Doner Kebab or köfteci sandwich either. Checkout my full guide to the best cheap eats in Berlin.

Best things in life in free and Berlin has a ton of free experiences

Just like my other favourite city in Germany, Hamburg, the thing I love about Berlin is how accessible and open it is to everyone – irrespective of your colour, race or economic means, this city has something for everyone. Some of the best Berlin attractions like the Brandenburg Gate, Mauerpark and the East Side Gallery are free.

Tempelhofer Feld

My favourite place to take friends visiting Berlin is this former airfield turned public park. This is THE place to watch sunset in Berlin plus the airfield track is an amazing place to cycle, rollerblade or even windsurf, or you can have a barbecue or just picnic with friends. In the summer, every evening here feels like a mini festival. Do not miss this place.

The Brandenburg Gate

Berlin in the 18th century had 18 gates to the city and now the only gate that stands is the Brandenburg Gate. Once a symbol of a divided city, the Brandenburg Gate is now the iconic symbol of Berlin and of reunified Germany. It’s worth hanging around the elegant Pariser Platz in front of the Brandenburg Gate to just observing the flow of tourists and also colourful characters that seem to congregate here.

The East Side Gallery

The longest stretch of the Berlin Wall that still remains. In 1990 the city commissioned 105 different artists from around the world to create murals along the wall in celebration of freedom and the reunification of Germany, essentially turning the wall into an outdoor art gallery.

Tip: If you are keen to learn more about what life was like behind the wall, I highly recommend a visit to the very moving and haunting Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer (Berlin Wall Memorial) in Prenzlauer Berg. A memorial to the victims of the Berlin Wall, this stretches for 1.4km along Bernauer Strasse, along the actual course of the Wall. This is probably the best place to learn how all the elements of the hated barrier and the death strip fit together, how the border fortifications were enlarged and perfected over time, and what impact they had on the daily lives of people on both sides.

The Holocaust Memorial

After Brandenburg Gate if you continue to your left and you’ll find yourself in front of the Holocaust Memorial, another moving and symbolic architectural gem of Berlin. The memorial’s 2,711 concrete slabs or “stelae” of the memorial are arranged in a grid pattern and varying in height from 0.2 to 4.8 m help create a confusing, disorientating and claustrophobic ambience which was the creator, Peter Eisenman’s intention. The memorial is one of those places that you have to experience yourself to fully realize it’s meaning.

Mauerpark

One of the largest and most famous flea markets, every Sunday from 7am to 5pm, with associated outdoor karaoke in an amphitheatre where brave souls can belt out their favourite tunes in front of a large crowd from 3pm.

And the one thing not to do in Berlin: visit Checkpoint Charlie. It’s the most overrated tourist attraction in the city – the building has been moved to another site, the Berlin Wall has been torn down, and even the sign you see is not the original. Had it been left in place with 100 metres of wall on either side, it would have been a better look back at history. Checkout my full guide : 33 free things to do in Berlin.

Limited time in Berlin? Focus on one neighbourhood

Each of Berlin’s neighborhoods has its own history and character. Given how huge Berlin is, if your time is limited, I would recommend focussing on one hood. Mitte is a good start. You have the best of Berlin in one area, from the Reichstag, to Museum Island, the iconic TV Tower, the sprawling magnificent Tiergarten park and the ugly but pretty Potsdamer Platz.

Walking up Unter den Linden takes you past the Neue Wache, with its iconic Mother and Son sculpture, and into Lustgarten, a green oasis that’s been through many reincarnations – from a site for political demonstrations during the Weimar Republic to a venue for Hitler’s mass rallies, to its happy current form. For those keen to learn more about what life was like behind the Wall, the Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer, stretching 1.4km along Bernauer Strasse along the actual course of the Wall, is probably the best place to learn how all the elements of the hated barrier and the death strip fit together. Full guide: free walking tour of Berlin Mitte and also my self guided free walking tour of Berlin Wedding

Berlin is one of Europe’s greenest cities

Despite being a busy, dense metropolis, Berlin is one of Europe’s greenest cities. Treptower Park is a treasure trove of many unusual interesting places, each with their own history, dominated by the monumental Soviet War Memorial, the largest Soviet memorial outside Russia. Further out, the Gardens of the World in Marzahn really transport you to a different world, thanks to ten very different gardens drawing inspiration from countries and cultures across the world – my favourite is the Oriental Garden, constructed over two years according to the principles of the Qu’ran’s Surah, where for a few moments you could be in Granada, Seville or Marrakech. Full guide: Berlin outdoor activities.

The perfect day trip from Berlin

On the doorstep of Berlin you have the beautiful area of Brandenburg. Just a 40 minute ride from the chaotic and bustling Berlin, stepping into Potsdam feels like entering a different universe. Often visited as a popular day trip, I quickly discovered that spending a day does not do the place justice. Potsdam was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1990, covering more than 2,064 hectares and containing 150 buildings built between 1730 and 1916, an astounding complex of palaces and parks that were the envy of royalty across the world. Frederick the Great built Sanssouci Palace here to escape the bustling German capital, and named it Sanssouci, meaning “without worry”. Full guide: best things to do in Potsdam.

Getting around is easy, once you know the system

Berlin’s public transport system is extensive, user-friendly and reasonably reliable. It’s also not that expensive given its size, especially compared with other large European cities like London or Paris. Once you know how to use it, there are several legal ways to spend less: picking the cheaper Kurzstrecke (€2.80) over a full-fare Langstrecke ticket (€4.00), sharing a Kleingruppe day pass across a group, saving with a 4-ticket bundle, or switching to the Deutschlandticket at €63 a month if you’re staying two weeks or more. Full guide: how to legally hack the Berlin public transport system.

So, is Berlin worth visiting?

Even after 14 years, there is never a dull moment here. It has so many rich and complex layers of history, one of the most accessible and affordable bar and food scenes in Europe, a huge amount to do for free, and it’s greener than most people expect. Come with more time than you think you need.

More Berlin guides on the blog

• Where to go for a drink in Berlin: 22 best bars / spätis
• Berlin Outdoors: 48 hours off the beaten path
• Perfect weekend getaway from Berlin: Potsdam
• A self guided free walking tour of Berlin Mitte
• 33 free and fun things to do in Berlin
• Berlin Public Transport System Guide: 10 legal travel hacks
• Berlin’s best cheap eats: 18 restaurants from just €4

PS Also checkout my earlier guide to Volcano Hopping in Iceland and a review of the Bus Hostel in Reykjavik.

Where to eat in Reykjavik on a budget

1. Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur

Tryggvagata 1, 101 Reykjavík 

The legendary harbourside hot dog stand that’s been feeding locals since 1937, and once got the nod from Bill Clinton.

Once selected by the Guardian as Europe’s best hot dog stand, Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur (English: The Town’s Best Sausages) for more than half a century have been feeding hungry locals and tourists alike across their chain of hot dog stands in Reykjavík. Billed as Iceland’s national dish, these hotdogs have got the thumbs up from various celebrities visiting the city which include Bill Clinton and Anthony Bourdain. Order the hot dogs with “the works” (in Icelandic “eina með öllu”), i.e., all condiments which include ketchup, sweet mustard, fried onion, raw onion and remolaði, a mayonnaise-based sauce with sweet relish. Hot dogs start from 920 Kr (€6.50).

2. Saegreifinn

Geirsgata 8, 101 Reykjavík 

A ramshackle green fisherman’s hut by the old harbour, famous for its lobster soup and grilled fish skewers.

Saegreifinn, or Sea Baron restaurant down by the old harbour, serves what is claimed to be the best lobster soup on the planet. In a green, old fisherman’s hut you can choose from the lobster soup (2890kr, €20.36) and a choice of fresh seafood (starts from 1990kr, €14) or grilled potato (650kr, €4.98) barbequed on skewers.

3. Noodle Station

Laugavegur 86, 101 Reykjavík 

A spartan noodle counter on the city’s main shopping street, known for its fragrant, star-anise-laced broths.

Noodle Station is a spartan, wee joint that serves up a choice of 3 noodle soups: noodle soup with beef (2610kr, €18.39), noodle soup with chicken (2690Kr, €18.95) and vegetarian noodle (1710kr, €12) soup. Spicy, flavourful with strong notes of star anise and lemongrass, this is a fast and cheap option for visitors to the city.

4. Ramen Momo

Tryggvagata 16, 101 Reykjavík 

Iceland’s first dedicated ramen and dumpling spot, run by a chef-and-partner team using mostly Icelandic-grown ingredients.

Established by ramen chef and founder Kunsang Tsering and his wife Erna Pétursdóttir, Ramen Momo is Iceland’s first restaurant dedicated to ramen and dumplings. The food, similar to Noodle Station, is flavourful and with some great options that include their housemade ramen noodles (1,490 ISK) and gyoza (1,290 ISK). Most of the ingredients used at the restaurant are made in Iceland and you can taste that freshness in the dishes. Special dishes on the menu include their delicious Vegan Tantanmen (3370 Kr), kimchi and seaweed salad (1490 kr each) and Red Beets Gyoza (2350 Kr, 5 pieces).

6. Krua Thai

Skólavörðustígur 21A, 101 Reykjavík 

A fast, friendly and reliably good Thai spot on the road up to Hallgrímskirkja.

If you are visiting Reykjavik and craving something different, then Krua Thai is a great choice for Thai food lovers. Their Chicken Penang Curry and Green curries (starts from 3650 Kr, €25) are fantastic and come highly recommended. Service is quick and friendly, portion sizes are generous and overall a safe option.

7. Reykjavik Chips

Vitastígur 10, 101 Reykjavík 

A cosy Belgian-style chip shop with a serious sauce selection, plus solid burgers and fish and chips.

For the best chips (normal or sweet potato, fluffy on the inside, crunchy on the outside) in Reykjavik plus for excellent fish and burgers at reasonable prices, Reykjavik Chips is the place locals and visitors go. Portion sizes are good and they also have an excellent range of sauces, from ketchup to their signature spicy mayo sauce. Staff are super friendly. Small cone of fries starts from 900kr (€6.35), burgers start from 2590kr (€18.25) and fish and chips from 2900kr (€20.40).

Where to drink in Reykjavik on a budget

8. Kaffi Vínyl

Hverfisgata 76, 101 Reykjavík

A relaxed vegan- and vegetarian-friendly café with a vinyl shop attached, strong on electronica and vintage grooves.

A nice relaxed place for a coffee.

9. Grótta Lighthouse

Grótta, 170 Seltjarnarnes

A tidal lighthouse at the northwesternmost point of the peninsula, with a geothermal footbath tucked among the rocks.

Bring your own drink when visiting the north-westernmost point in Reykjavik where the Grótta Lighthouse is located. From here you enjoy the views over Flaxaflói bay, Esjan and on a clear day see even Snæfellsjökull glacier. Dip your feet into the warm geothermal waters of the Grótta footbath which you can find amongst the rocks by the seashore.

10. Kex Hostel

Skúlagata 28, 101 Reykjavík T

The hostel bar in a converted biscuit factory, centrally located with a strong live music programme.

Or grab a beer here. Centrally located and with a big emphasis on live music, this place is a popular meeting point between locals and tourists.

11. Gaukurinn

Tryggvagata 22, 101 Reykjavík

A lively venue for live music, karaoke, standup comedy, cult movie screenings and a weekly drag cabaret.

From live music, karaoke and standup comedy nights to cult movie screenings and a weekly drag cabaret: Gaukurinn is definitely worth stopping by. Happy Hour starts from 2 till 9pm with beers starting at 600kr (€5).