New Buenos Aires Guides and Walking Tours

Here at BuenosTours we have widened the range of tours that we offer. Please read below on for full details.

But first, a couple of reminders about our guides and reservations policy:

Local Expat Guides of Buenos Aires

All of the guides at BuenosTours are expats living long-term in Buenos Aires, who are originally from the UK and the US. This means you get the best of both worlds when booking with one of our guides:

1.) A local who knows Buenos Aires inside out and can tell you the best of the city as an insider so that you make the most of your time here

But ALSO:

2.) Someone who is an English-speaking NATIVE, like you, so you can be assured that you will understand everything they say. You have no guarantee that Argentine tour companies will have guides that speak a high level of English, so why take the risk? Also, having a guide who was born into your culture, but who has also lived in Buenos Aires as a local does, means that you have someone who acts as a bridge between two cultures - we will help you to understand the history and culture of Buenos Aires and Argentina, because we have seen things from both sides.

Tour Reservations Policy

• To make things easier for our clients, we are now accepting payment for tours by credit or debit card. You can either pay the full price of the tour by card up front, to be safe in the knowledge that your tour is set in stone and all you have to do is wait at your accommodation at the agreed time to be met by your expert guide, or pay a small deposit up front, and then the balance of the fee at the time of the tour.
• All credit/debit card payments and deposits to us are processed through Google Checkout. By using this online payment system from Google, the biggest and most respected internet company around, you can be sure your payment and details are 100% safe, secure and private at all times (no one else has access to your card details at any time - not even us!)

New Private Walking Tours on Offer

In addition to our most popular and well-received tour, the 3 hour walking tour of the historical city center of Buenos Aires that we now have the following offerings to help you make the most of your time in Buenos Aires:

Buenos Aires Day Tour

1.) This is the must see/do tour of Buenos Aires. Our most complete tour. Approximately 7 hours of touring to the most important areas of the city:

- San Telmo, the atmospheric home of tango, immigrant history, antiques, cobblestone streets and colonial architecture
- Monserrat, the oldest barrio in the city, full of beautiful churches
- The City Center, including the most important historical sites in Buenos Aires, like the Casa Rosada/Pink House, Plaza de Mayo, the Cathedral and the oldest subway line in the southern hemisphere
- A coffee/restroom break at Cafe Tortoni, the oldest and most ornate cafe in the city, founded way back in 1858
- Plaza San Martin, the most peaceful and beautiful square in the city, which has historical suprises lurking in every corner
- Avenida 9 de Julio, the widest road in the world, and home to the Buenos Aires Obelisk monument
- Lunch at a traditional Argentine restaurant together with your guide - at the kind of place where the locals eat, with a choice of tasty dishes that will have all tastes covered.
- Recoleta, the most prestigious area of the city, full of mansions and high class establishments, where we will stroll along upscale Avenida Alvear 
- Recoleta Cemetery, last resting place of Evita Peron and many other rich and famous Argentines, plus the highest concentration of beautiful architecture and sculpture in the city.

This is a walking tour with some public transport involved, so it will be a pretty exerting (but healthy!) day - please note this before booking. However, exploring through walking and public transport is really the best method to see the city up close and personal, as the locals would, rather than opting for being herded around on an impersonal bus city/day tour of Buenos Aires.

Price: 200 US Dollars for small groups (of 1 to 3 people) and 300 US Dollars for medium groups (of 4 to 7 people). These prices are the total for the group, NOT PER PERSON. Note - transport to and from the tour is not included in the price, nor is any money you spend on refreshments or food for yourselves during the tour. However, travel, food and refreshments are very cheap in Buenos Aires, and the place we have carefully selected for lunch is very reasonable, even by local standards. The ideal start times for this tour are 9am or 9.30am. Complete the following form to make a booking inquiry, clearly stating in your comments that you would like the day tour:

La Boca and San Telmo Tour

2.) A 3 hour walking tour of San Telmo and La Boca, the atmospheric south of the city, famous for it’s antiques market, tango history, and local handicrafts on sale.

You will also be introduced to the history and culture of these fascinating areas with a past steeped in the immigrant culture that formed the city of Buenos Aires just over 100 years ago. Tour includes a coffee/restroom break in a traditional old cafe.

Price: 100 US Dollars for small groups (of 1 to 3 people). These prices are the total for the group, NOT PER PERSON. Note - transport to, during (one taxi journey is also required in the middle of the tour), and from the tour is not included in the price, nor is any money you spend on refreshments or food for yourselves during the tour. However, both travel and refreshments are very cheap in Buenos Aires.

SCROLL TO THE END OF THIS PAGE TO BOOK THIS TOUR

Recoleta and Retiro Tour

3.) A 3 hour walking tour of Recoleta, it’s world famous cemetery, and Retiro, the rich northern areas of the city, famous for it’s beautiful old mansion houses, lush squares and parks, luxury hotels, restaurants and designer stores, and of course, the last resting place of Eva Peron (Evita).

Approximately half of the tour is spent in the remarkable Recoleta cemetery, where in addition to seeing Evita’s tomb, you will also be regaled with tales of the most famous people in Argentine history, marvel at the intricate architecture of the wonderful mausoleums, and hear an intriguing ghost story or two.

This tour was recently recommended as one of the five best cemetery tours in the world by the UK’s Guardian newspaper, and listed by them in first position!

The tour includes a coffee/restroom break in a traditional old cafe OR ice cream at our favorite ice cream parlor in Buenos Aires.

Price: 100 US Dollars for small groups (of 1 to 3 people), and 150 US Dollars for medium groups (of 4 to 7 people). These prices are the total for the group, NOT PER PERSON. Note - transport to and from the tour is not included in the price, nor is any money you spend on refreshments or food for yourselves during the tour. However, both travel and refreshments are very cheap in Buenos Aires.

SCROLL TO THE END OF THIS PAGE TO BOOK THIS TOUR

Custom Private Tours of Buenos Aires

4.) Using the suggestions in the above tours, information elsewhere on this website, or any other request that you have, work with us to come up with a tour of any length to the parts of the city that you wish to visit. Consult with us by email and we’ll help create the perfect tour for you to make the most of your time in the city.

Price: 50 US Dollars per hour for small groups (of 1 to 3 people). These prices are the total for the group, NOT PER PERSON. Note - transport to, during, and from the tour is not included in the price, nor is any money you spend on refreshments or food for yourselves during the tour. However, both travel and refreshments are very cheap in Buenos Aires.

SCROLL TO THE END OF THIS PAGE TO BOOK THIS TOUR

Book a Private Guided Tour in Buenos Aires

If you are not yet decided and want to check some other opinions, then for testimonials from clients who took our tours in the past, please check the end of this page.

Once decided, please use the below form to make booking inquiries for all of the tours mentioned above. Complete it with your name, email address, accommodation in Buenos Aires, which tour/s you want to take, the date/time you would like the tour/s on, the number of people you are booking for, and any other comments/questions you wish to add. We can also organize tango-dinner shows and exclusive Argentine wine tastings, so please fill out the form to inquire about those too if you are interested. After submitting the form, we will get back to you by email as soon as possible to finalize your booking:

[Note: If you are interested in tours for larger groups than mentioned above, please contact us using the form to ask for further details/prices etc.]

Great Press For BuenosTours!

As you might have guessed from the lack of blog posts around here recently, we’ve been working hard giving lots of walking tours around Buenos Aires. And it’s certainly paying off, with some good press coming in from both traditional and modern publishing formats…

This weekend we were recommend by the Guardian newspaper (one of the UK’s most widely read dailies) in their article on The Five Best Cemetery Tours, in which they listed BuenosTours and our tour of Recoleta Cemetery (plus surrounding areas) first - I guess making us the best cemetery tour in the world! (TM)

if you want to book the “best cemetery tour in the world” with us, click here and scroll down to the “Recoleta & Retiro tour” heading for more information.

And some Podcasting love too…

But the recommendations don’t stop there. BuenosTours also has fans living in the high-tech age. The podcast guys over at For Whatever Reason yesterday posted up their latest episode, including a long feature on the recent walking tour of Buenos Aires city center they took with us and how much they enjoyed it. Thanks guys! Just to quickly quote a few things they said about the tour in the podcast:

“This walking tour was possibly the best thing that we did on the entire trip”

“A great way to get a feel for everything and learn a lot about the area”

“Most people booked a tour of Buenos Aires, most of them booked a bus tour where they got on a bus and somebody with a loudspeaker talked as they drove through different parts of the city. The tour that we booked was actually a private walking tour and so it was just the tour guide, and me, and Tim… It was wonderful, we had a lot of one-on-one time, or two-on-one time, with him, we could ask questions without feeling like we were interrupting someone else’s tour, we didn’t have other people interrupting what we felt like was our tour, and having been on lots of tour type situations that’s always the case where… you just feel like the experience isn’t what you want it to be, where this was what we wanted it to be, and it was so perfect.”

“He was very knowledgable in history - he had funny stories, he had tragic stories, he had everything inbetween.”

“It gave us a great sense of comfort to walk around the streets… in fact I stopped him about 10 minutes into the tour and said thank you… because this is the first time I have done any kind of international travel… and you’ve helped me realize that this isn’t any different than home, it’s just a different city.”

You can listen to the episode here: For Whatever Reason on BuenosTours (the part about Buenos Aires and BuenosTours starts at about 16 minutes in).

(And stick around to listen to some more of their stuff, because it’s pretty cool, plus they have great radio voices! Also, check out their Buenos Aires photo album on Flickr, with photos from their walking tour, including a couple of rather unfortunate ones of yours truly…)

Finally, you can click here to book the private guided city center walking tour they took!

Now were just waiting on that long-promised Oprah endorsement, and we’re all set…

[Second photo credit: Javier Kohen @ Flickr]

[Note from Alan: Just wanted to update this post to reflect the change in the expected re-opening date for the Colon Theatre - now due for 25th May 2010 - as I know a lot of people read this post and I don't want to mislead people due to outdated material]

(Original post written October 25th 2006)

Earlier this week I finally took the opportunity to take in a performance at the Teatro Colon (Colon Theater) which many say is the ‘jewel in the crown’ of Buenos Aires, as one of the most famous opera houses in the world.

I was prompted to get along to the Colon by the fact that it is closing for reconstruction work at the end of October 2006, with plans to reopen on May 25, 2010, on the 200th anniversary of the May Revolution, when Argentina split from the Spanish to become an independent nation.

A long wait until the re-opening, and that’s IF the works are actually completed in time. Knowing Argentina, I would be extremely suprised if things go according to plan!

[Further edit: I was right here! The works have indeed been delayed for 2 years, as the original reopening date was supposed to be 25th May 2008. Who knows if they will even make it for 2010! ]

The Concert

We saw a concert from the ‘Camerata Bariloche’ orchestra, playing pieces from Strauss and Beethoven, which was all very pleasing to the ears (I have to admit i’m far from being classical music fan), but the star of the show was of course the venue itself, which is resplendent in its rich scarlet and gold decoration, along with several forests worth of beautiful wooden construction that make up the auditorium, with hints of Italian, Greek, German and French Renaissance design. It’s all very impressive when you are looking down, way, way down, from above, in the ‘Paradise’ (’Paraiso’ - the 7th and final seating level) area, which cost but a mere 10 pesos a seat or 5 pesos to stand (yes, I bought the cheapest tickets in the house - just don’t let my girlfriend find out).

For the record, I turned up in smart shoes, trousers, a shirt and tie, taking note of the dress code I saw in the ticket office earlier that day. I was easily the most over dressed person in the ‘Paraiso’ area - but in the more expensive areas I did see some well dressed ladies and gentleman. I think in reality you could go along dressed as you please - I saw quite a few people in jeans and t shirts.

Some Teatro Colon History

The famous venue is not without some interesting history. It opened in 1908, almost 20 years after the first cornerstone was laid in 1889, under the direction of architect Francesco Tamburini. You might understand why I suggested the current restorations may not be completed on time when I tell you that the theatre was originally due to be opened in 1892! But to be fair, a series of tragedies did complicate the process. Tamburini died soon after construction started, and his friend Vittorio Meano took over the project. Who also promptly died (murdered in a love triangle ‘gone wrong’ - though actually I’m not sure if there are many love triangles that ‘go right’). The architects were followed to the grave by another Italian guy, Angelo Ferrari (assassinated), that had been partly funding the building works. Italians dropping like flies…

Fortunately, a Belgian, Julio Dormal, came in and finished the job, breathing a sigh of relief as the finishing touches were made without event. This further confirmed my feeling that Belgians are in fact some of the greatest people on this planet, not only producing the best beer in the world and some of the finest chocolate, but also bucking architectural death trends without batting an eyelid. And that’s not to mention the waffles! I drink to Dormal and his kind whenever I can (sadly no Belgian beer) inside another of his many BA constructions, the Confiteria Richmond cafe, on pedestrian Florida Street (near Lavalle).

The Colon Finally Opens…

But back to the theatre. It finally opened on 25 May 1908 with a performance of Verdi’s Aida, and never looked back, as it became one of the world’s premiere centers of opera. Over the years the Teatro Colon has hosted such musical greats as Italian conductor Arturo Toscanini, French opera singer Jane Bathori, Italian tenor Enrico Caruso, Greek soprano Maria Callas, fatty Luciano Pavarotti, Argentine Tango bandoneon maestro Astor Piazzolla and even Weird Al Yankovic. OK, I made that last one up, but it would have been interesting.

Previous Colon Theater

There was actually a Colon theatre before the current one, as noted recently by Jeff Barry in his blog (he will soon be posting more on the Colon, probably far more coherently than I am doing right now). It had opened in 1857 on the edge of Plaza de Mayo, and served the porteno aristocracy well for a good many years until the current Colon was opened. These days the old building houses the Banco de la Nacion - the national bank of Argentina, an imposing structure that looks down upon the tourists that buzz round the Pink House.

Perfect Acoustics

The current theatre, located in Buenos Aires City Center (more or less in Tribunales) and visible from Avenue 9 de Julio, has virtually perfect acoustics. This is one of its main attractions, the sound reaching each and every audience member perfectly - so you can be a cheapskate like me and still enjoy the concert, even if the orchestra do look like musical ants from the loftier vantage points. If that doesn’t sound like a nice visual experience, you can always take in the music while staring at the beautiful surroundings, such as the decoration around the top of the stage, the huge, dazzling chandelier, or the ceiling frescoes that surround it. Though sadly the latter are not original, due to damage caused by damp in the 1930s. Instead they were painted in 1966 by famous Argentine muralist Raul Soldi, whose work can also be found on the ceiling of the wonderful Galerias Pacifico shopping center, again on Florida street (corner of Cordoba).

Teatro Colon Verdict

All in all, I very much recommend that any visitor to Buenos Aires pays a visit to the Teatro Colon - but unfortunately you will have to wait until May 25, 2008, or perhaps even longer, to see this attraction. However, it is probably worth the wait. In the meantime, if it is the classical music you are after, the Colon is continuing to put shows on in other venues across Buenos Aires during the closure. These mainly seem like they will be held in the Luna Park sports/concert venue, which though not without an interesting history of its own (the place where Peron and Evita 1st met, the funeral of Carlos Gardel and, err…, a Liza Minelli concert), is really not much more than a glorified warehouse.

Anyway, the Teatro Colon is still there to look at from the outside, and that’s not such a bad view in itelf…

For more detailed information on the Teatro Colon, and pictures that are far better and more varied than mine, check out the history section of the official Colon website. And of course, Wikipedia is always good. To contact the Teatro Colon, you can phone them using the following number: (54-11) 4378-7344.

[Note from Alan: I'm still here! I promise! I didn't leave the country! I haven't updated the blog for ages because I've been so busy with the walking tours and related work/emails. But please do keep checking back as soon there will be some very exciting changes happening here at the Buenos Aires Argentina Guide. To keep you going for now, here is a post that Kim wrote for me a while back about Rumi Nightclub...]

The trademark red lights of Rumi are anything but a sign to stop. And as long as you don’t, you’re in for a good night. Rumi boasts a welcoming and sizable venue for dancing, food, lounging and drinks, and even doubles as a restaurant in the earlier hours (at around 10pm or so).

Rumi is much more of a boliche (nightclub) than a bar or restaurant, but holds on to its desire to be all three just enough. Naturally, like any boliche/bar/restaurant in Buenos Aires, the hour in which you arrive will drastically determine the night you have in store. Because Rumi is the perfect halfway point between the larger clubs like Museum & the once famed Opera Bay, and the smaller boliches (where you find your self fighting for room at the: bar, dance floor, restrooms, entrance, etc…), it’s a great way to enjoy Argentine nightlife without having to embrace the extremes. The red lights of Rumi shine from the outside beckoning patrons to enter…

Rumi’s Wednesday Night Dinner Special

If you’ve arrived early then you’ve already avoided the fuss of waiting in line and probably sauntered your way right on in. At around 10:30pm the club serves dinner. Rumi is known for its Wednesday night, when for 30 pesos (women) or 40 pesos (men) you can choose between a choices of entrée, drink and dessert. The menu offers rotating options, but when we visited it was steak and pasta, both of which are delicious, and your choice of beers, wine or coffee. Afterwards, choosing which ice cream dessert most suits your fancy won’t be an easy feat!

The Early Bird Catches the Booth in Buenos Aires

The restaurant set up is calming and still, and you’ll most likely be set up with a table on the dance floor. Keep in mind you’ll hardly notice that the exact spot you’re eating at will soon transform into a sea of dancers. However, asking politely, calling ahead, or knowing the owner might get you a booth seat located away from the dance floor. This eating scenario is more reminiscent of higher end restaurants and is also a great place to be seated if you plan on staying for the music and dancing.

The booths turn into a wonderful hiatus from the energy of the dance floor and are a perfect place to rest your feet and rejuvenate your spirits. There are seemingly endless benefits to arriving early, and here are just a few: you can see who’s arriving, who’s looking good and if it’s worth hanging around for.

So, You Think You Can Dance?

If you and your amigos have made other plans and have already enjoyed dinner, a siesta and perhaps a drink or two at another bar, then you’re here to dance. Arriving around 2:30am, you’re amongst the fashionable Argentines who are here for fun and to bust some moves. At this point the tables have been cleared, the music is pumping and everyone around you is here for the same reason. All those early birds who aren’t in it for the long haul, have flown the coop.

Rumi has a lovely outside terrace where people enjoy the fresh air and the occasional cigarette. If you want in, you’ll have to wait AND pay your dues. The covers very from weeknight to weekend, coming in a tad steeper on the nights truly dedicated for the night owls. 30 pesos should be plenty and it will be worth it. Passing under the red letters of Rumi, yet more red summons you toward the dance floor.

One of Rumi’s greatest perks is the bar and dance floor set up. The bar runs the length of the dance floor so there are no corner bars you need to fight and huddle your way into. The DJ booth is opposite the entrance where the man in charge of the decks quickly changes up synthesized pop hits to pumping techno as he feels out the vibe of the crowd. Those relaxing, watching or simply enjoying from afar seem to melt away, making the dance floor the center of a attention. And why shouldn’t it be? The surging crowd is filled with energy and the club stays this way until the sun comes up, and your priorities switch from boogie to bed.

A Word About Nightclub Ambiance

As mentioned, the layout of Rumi does a lot for the club. The bathrooms are upstairs and separate from the club and the hallway leading to the dance floor creates a sort of ‘calm before the storm’. Here you can find couples snuggling and making out in sphere shaped chairs, between bouts of dancing.

Rumi isn’t unaware of its red-light stereotype and hired entertainment is much more “red-light district” than the rest of the club. A feature dancer or two may be propped up for all to see and combing the crowd are other colorful entertainers. It adds a great mix of flavor to the club in the later hours and the crowd digs the extras like glow sticks and candy handed out by the hot-bodied dancers or men in drag. Yet another visual to keep your interest peaked is the footage of live concerts and music videos projected on the screens above the dance floor. You’re sure to draw inspiration from somewhere and I’m sure you’ll enjoy what Rumi is throwing down on the dance floor.

Location, Location, Location…

Rumi is located on the Costanera of Buenos Aires, but not near Puerto Madero. Instead, look north. It’s much closer to Belgrano and the cab rides are cheap from other eating and nightlife areas such as Recoleta, Palermo or Las Canitas. Mention the club name to a cabbie or scribble down: Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 6442 y La Pampa and you’ll be there in no time.

A more colorful Caminito, without the hordes of tourists

Calle Lanin is beautiful little street in the barrio of Barracas, in the south of Buenos Aires. If you are going to La Boca to see the colorful and historical Caminito street, then you might also consider taking the time to explore some of the neighboring barrio of Barracas, where you will find the quieter, shady, yet extremely colorful Lanin. (Don’t try this at night, it’s not really a safe place for tourists to be after dark). The murals there, created in the year 2000 by local artist Marino Santa Maria (who actually lives on this street), are definitely worth the trip to take a look.

Unfortunately I’m still pretty tight for time at the moment, so probably the most efficient way to give you an idea of what Lanin street is like, and to spare you my boring waffle, is through posting up a few more photos. Click below to see them!

Photos of Calle Lanin

Hope you enjoyed the photos
You can also check out this post on Calle Lanin by Argentina’s Travel Guide for some more info on this sightseeing attraction in Buenos Aires.

Note from Alan - Sorry once more for the long time since the last posting on this blog - I’ve been crazily busy for the past couple of months with my Buenos Aires Tours. Until I get some more time free to write something myself, here’s a great post from Kim on the Buenos Aires Zoo to keep you going:

It’s all happening at the zoo…

And it really is! The Buenos Aires Zoo is spectacularly charming for anyone with an afternoon to spare. Located in the heart of Palermo off the Plaza Italia subway stop, the zoo spans the distance between Avenidas Las Heras and Libertador. Home to over 350 species and known for some of its exotic breeding, the zoo is the perfect place for families, a romantic date or an afternoon alone.

On sunny weekends this attraction is packed full of children, which isn’t always entirely different from the weekdays, when many school field trips attend. Nevertheless, the best time to visit the zoo is on a sunny weekday afternoon, when you can lounge in front of the white tiger enclosure or elephant house with few others peering over your shoulder.

Buenos Aires Zoo details and entrance prices

The zoo’s entrance is located on the corner of Avenida Las Heras and Avenida Sarmiento. Cost varies depending on what you want to see and how much you want to spend. General Admission (Entrada General) is AR$6.75, which gives you access to most of the zoo. However, there are several exhibits requiring the more advanced pass (Pasaporte), which costs AR$13.50 and gives you access to exhibits such as the Aquarium, Reptiles and Rainforest, as well as the ‘Dragon House’ and a boat ride on the lagoon.

The General pass shouldn’t be overlooked however, as the majority of the zoo is indeed found within the General layout. Meanwhile, the Aquarium has penguins with both fresh and saltwater fish (including piranhas) in large tanks and the reptile area is eerily captivating (especially for the boys). However, if after purchasing the general pass and you find yourself thinking that the Rainforest exhibit looks too good to pass up, an extra AR$3.30 at the entrance to each additional exhibit will grant you entry.

Don’t feed the animals (or do!)

OK, so you have your pass… now, where do you begin? Upon admittance you’ll see a large entrance where you can purchase disposable cameras, snacks and also rent lockers. They also have professional photographers if you want to capture the moment without any blurs or overexposures, which is ideal considering the entrance is next to a picturesque lagoon where flamingos lounge on the far side of the fountains. (Look closely and you’ll also see snapping turtles!)

The entrance area is also an excellent chance to buy some animal food (Comidas Animales) - throughout your journey you’re welcome to feed elephants, alpacas, monkeys, camels, deer, zebras and other feed friendly animals. The food bags are only AR$3.50 and larger bins can be bought for AR$5.50. While you’ll find yourself wondering how it’s possible that all of these different animals eat the same food (maybe save yourself some cash and try it out on the kids… just kidding!), it’s a wonderful way to interact and gain the attention of the more commonly aloof critters. Some of the animals will even play up to the food, with elephants raising their trunks and monkeys motioning for you to throw more.

Some of the enclosures are so close to the animals themselves that sneaking in some petting (while you’re feeding the camel, for instance) isn’t difficult. Naturally, it’s important to be socially conscious of the safety of the animals and yourself, so be mindful when you’re petting the zebra. (I petted a Zebra!) If the kids are complaining that you’ve run out of Comidas Animales, then there are stations located throughout the Zoo where more can be purchased.

Helpful Buenos Aires Zoo Tip:

If the Comidas Animales didn’t go over so well as the kids’ snack, then there are stands where popsicles and other treats can be found. However, like most zoos, these are insanely over priced… so, if you go over to the sides of the zoo (by the fence) you will often find street vendors that will sell you a larger variety at half the price, right through the gaps in the fence! In Buenos Aires, where there’s a will, there’s a way

You are HERE

The layout of the zoo is simple so you don’t have to worry about missing anything. Posted maps along the way indicate your position, but by following the main path you’ll surely see it all. If you’ve taken this zoo-pert’s advice and headed RIGHT upon entry, your first stop will be the polar bears with their large swimming pool and the Aquarium, should you choose to view it.

The elephant house is enormous and the elephants seem to spend most of their time near the perimeters in hopes of catching some snacks purchased by zoo goers. Again the intimacy of the Buenos Aires zoo is spectacular and it’s breathtaking to see these amazing animals up so close.

The zoo is also known for its success in breeding white tigers (see picture below) and these, along with the other large cats (pumas, cheetahs, jaguars and lions) are all in well built enclosures where they’re easy to spot. Each enclosure lists the animal with some basic information for those wishing to educate themselves on the wildlife. Information such as where you can find them in the wild, the types of food they eat (interestingly enough, none mention the Comidas Animales!) and other key characteristics about each inhabitant is listed.

[Photo Credit: Yomatiase under an Attribution 2.0 Generic Licence]

Helpful Buenos Aires Zoo tip:

So you’ve decided to bring the kids and they’re getting rambunctious. The middle of the zoo houses a playground fully equipped with swings and slides for them to exert all that extra energy. The zoo also has two carousels located at the back and far left. The one in the rear is always running and is nearby a rest area with food. It’s a great halfway point and the perfect load off.

Sooooo cute

The region dedicated to Africa is located on the left side of the zoo which again bodes spectacularly intimate views of anything you’d hope to see. This gives way to a petting zoo where at the end of your journey (you’re actually allowed to here!) to pet a family of goats, donkeys and Shetland ponies.

If you haven’t had your fill by this time, take another loop (I did!). Or, if you have, you’re back at the lagoon and ready for home… Once you’re home and realize that house cat of yours isn’t exactly living up to those white tiger cubs, visit the zoo website to see what other activities and adventures the zoo has to offer. This includes information on birthdays, guided tours and other specialized events: www.zoobuenosaires.com.ar (one such specialized event at the moment is night time zoo opening, as Karine from Buenos Aires Weekly recently reported on).

“Someone told me
Its all happening at the zoo.

I do believe it,
I do believe its true.

Its a light and tumble journey
From the east side to the park;
Just a fine and fancy ramble
To the zoo.

But you can take the crosstown bus
If its raining or its cold,
And the animals will love it
If you do.

Somethin’ tells me
Its all happening at the zoo.

The monkeys stand for honesty,
Giraffes are insincere,
And the elephants are kindly but
They’re dumb.
Orangutans are skeptical
Of changes in their cages,
And the zoo keeper is very fond of rum.

Zebras are reactionaries,
Antelopes are missionaries,
Pigeons plot in secrecy,
And hamsters turn on frequently.
What a gas! you gotta come and see
At the zoo.”

Learn to play the guitar in Buenos Aires!

Occasionally I like to give a shameless plug to one of my friends in Buenos Aires that I think has a service potentially of interest to tourists and expats here. This is one such post.

My friend Cristian is a kick-ass guitar player. I’ve played with him and seen him live before, and both times left me feeling (in true Wayne’s World style) “I am not worthy”. So, I’m sure his lessons will be an excellent option for budding guitarists here in Buenos Aires, who want to learn from an expert musician.

Keep reading for more info (in Cristian’s own words), details and prices…

Over to you, Cristian:

“Description of guitar classes:

We talk about the student’s needs, expectations for the class, music they like to play and learn (whether it’s rock, folk, blues, electronic, or other types), etc. I design each course plan specially for each student. Also, I email them exercises that they can practice at home. It’s great because music is in their minds all the time… not just the 2 hours that they are in class with me.”

“I am in constant contact with my students; I want them to contact me if they have a question or want more exercises to do. I have good material that I also use in my class….”bases” like drums, bass, etc. So when they get comfortable, they can play like they are in a real band and work with the rhythms in music. I also use reference books which provide good, solid information.”

“Details of classes:

• They are generally 2 hours long.
• The rate is $20 pesos per hour.
• Classes generally take place at my apartment, in the City Center
• Mostly in Spanish, but can also explain in English
• Contact Cristian by email: guitarclasses@yahoo.com.ar “

OK, back to Alan writing now. I can vouch for Cristian’s English skills, despite his modesty above… if you have sketchy Spanish skills, I’m sure Cristian will still be able to communicate the important details to you. And anyway, soon you’ll be talking in the international language of music!

Just think, pretty soon, this could be you:

Thanks for reading!

[Photo Credit: jmpznz, under this CC licence]

Costanera Sur - a quiet nature reserve just a stone’s throw from the city

The hustle and bustle of the Microcentro are lost in the cooling mood of the only ecological reserve in the city, the Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur. A stone’s throw away from the trendy, modern Puerto Madero and you find yourself walking along the park’s boardwalk littered with nuzzling couples, parrillas, and more pigeons than you can throw a stick at.

The Costanera Sur’s walkway borders the front of the reserve and from there you can see the greater landscape that opens up into the park. The boardwalk itself is entertaining, with beautiful architecture and sculptures, casual eateries and dozens of pickup games of futbol. Your initial examination of the swampy marshland is only an introduction to the many more birds and interesting views that await you upon entering.

A microcosm of Buenos Aires charm on the Costanera Sur boardwalk

While I am usually a big advocate for close examinations, perhaps looking too closely at the first portion of the park would be a mistake. Due to the popularity of the walkway, and the dozens of adolescents and passersby, more than a few empty bottles and wrappers have been thrown all over the small concrete divider. The view from inside the park provides a much cleaner atmosphere, though the boardwalk itself should not be eschewed…

The culture that cumulates here daily is a microcosm of what makes Buenos Aires so charming. In fact, the history of the reserve owes much of its existence to leftovers. During its construction in the mid-20th century, remnants of demolished buildings and construction debris were discarded into the Rio de la Plata. Gradually the debris, mixed with sand from the river began to create the marshy foundation for what is now the reserve. Soon, the plants began to grow, and not long after the birds followed. The ecological park is the result of this interesting history, and a great location for observing that fascinating border where city and country convene.

[Photo Credit: jmpznz, under this CC licence]

Rent a bike to help explore the nature reserve

The park has two entrances. The main entrance is located on the southern side of the boardwalk and is an excellent place to rent a bicycle for the afternoon. 6 pesos will buy you an hour if you choose to explore the park from a biker’s point of view. This isn’t a bad way to go if you want to maximize your time bouncing around from view to view.

The entire walk around the reserve will take you more than an hour and that’s without stopping to peer through the reeds and to try and identify birds. The reserve offers several viewpoint stops that allow you a moment to pull out your binoculars and scan over the marshes that navigate through the wetlands. If you forget to bring your own, fifty centavos will allow you a peek through the public binoculars that are placed along decks that skirt out over the marshlands.

Spectacular views with interesting backdrops

The views in the reserve are spectacularly endless. From the parks entrance a quick look back gives you a different view of the boardwalk with the city stretching up behind it. Wandering through the dirt laid paths are benches that offer a brief rest while you take in the quiet escape you’ve earned from your walk.

Perhaps most breathtaking are the views on the eastern side of the park. The Rio de la Plata borders this edge of the reserve and boats can be seen sailing in the distance. The air here is cooler and cleaner than in the busy city and the grassy areas for sitting are a great place to settle down for a relaxing view…

[Photo Credit: jmpznz, under this CC licence]

This side of the reserve not only boasts amazing views of the river, but one of the best of the city. As you’ve chosen an afternoon away from the crazy downtown streets, it’s more than rewarding to see the city settled in the distance among a foreground of reeds and cattails.

Hide away from busy Buenos Aires down by the river

If you’ve entered the park from the south your walk continues past more scenes of the city and river. The river offers a true boardwalk where with some innovation and a keen eye you can find the entrance from inside the reserve and walk out along the river. On a hot day, or if you’re looking for a truer sense of solitude, this is one of the best hiding places in the city.

A closer look at the passing barges and water below will bring you even further away from the demanding pace of downtown. The northern side of the park offers many other surprises for those with a sharp eye. If you’re riding your rented bicycle too fast you may miss the small veterinary clinic and adoption center at the northern entrance of the park. Designed to offer veterinary assistance to the many birds that inhabit the reserve, you can see hawks and larger birds of prey that may usually be flying too high overhead for such a close examination. The small building also houses some wayward dogs that are now up for adoption; probably a better bet if you’re a Buenos Aires inhabitant rather than a traveler.

The end of a relaxing day at the Costanera Sur, Buenos Aires

From here, you’ve almost completed your circle. Your choices of return are to take the northern exit and walk back using the footpath, stopping for any number of snacks along the way (sure to be meat). Or, heading back from inside the park instead gives you a chance to prolong your afternoon oasis and take in more of the reserve.

When you do in fact decide to head on out of the nature reserve, Puerto Madero and the water diques are your transition home. You’ve probably found yourself hours later and the countless restaurants and bars located here are a perfect way to end your afternoon, or begin your evening. Whether you’re a Buenos Aires native or first time visitor, the Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur is an ideal way to escape from the city without the headache of organizing day trips or the burden of their cost. Whether you’re a country mouse stuck in the city, or simply looking for an afternoon off, put this attraction near the top of your list.

Just a quick note to let everyone know that, now we’re officially in Spring, I am once again offering private, guided, walking tours of Buenos Aires City Center. These sightseeing tours cover the main attractions in the historical center of the city, such as Plaza de Mayo, Avenida de Mayo, Plaza Congreso, the Casa Rosada, the Cathedral, Cafe Tortoni, and a whole lot more.

CLICK HERE FOR FURTHER INFORMATION AND TOUR BOOKING DETAILS.

Hope to see you soon!

La Milonga de los Consagrados - Useful information

Saturday afternoons 4.30pm-10.30pm; Entrance fee of 10 pesos; Reservations: 15-5892-2056.

Reservations are really necessary unless you attend alone, and then they can squeeze you in someplace. Usually this tango salon is full (more than 300 people) by 8.00pm.

La Milonga de los Consagrados is organized by Enrique “Gordo” Rosich, and although it is officially in the barrio of Constitucion, it would probably be referred to as San Telmo by most (official barrio borders are largely ignored in Buenos Aires).

Same venues, different milongas…

As I pointed out in my overview on Tango in Buenos Aires, even if a milonga is in the same salon as another, each milonga will still have its own character depending on the day of the week, the organizer, the crowd, and if it’s in the afternoon or at night.

Los Consagrados is in the same salon as the famous Nino Bien of Thursday nights (in the wonderful Centro Region Leonesa), but it is a totally different experience. And to my mind, the best afternoon milonga of the week. The fact that it’s held on Saturday afternoons, the traditional “difficult” day for singles, makes it even more of a plus…

A perfect tango salon

For one thing, the salon is perfect: large wooden dance floor, high high ceilings with a skylight, a bar, red velvet curtains at each end, a balcony for smokers. It is old and elegant at the same time, with the faded ambiance that foreigners especially love about Buenos Aires.

This is not a tourist milonga by any stretch of the imagination, despite the fact that several tourists do find their way there. The majority of the dancers are locals and regulars - sitting at the same tables week after week.

The atmosphere is friendly and open (although the strict tango codigos do apply). Men sit on one side, women on the other, couples and mixed groups at either end. It is necessary to cabecear to get a dance. There is very little of the snobbishness and elitism that permeates milongas such as El Beso and Maipu 444 (to be reviewed shortly). There are also very few of the “bottom feeder” types, who come to prey on foreigners, such as can be found in La Ideal. The level of dancing is fairly high.

Well, almost perfect…

Because Pato (Patricia), a tall beautiful dark haired waitress, has recently taken over the bar, you must now be more careful with your orders! Every week I have to send back my glass of champagne because either 1) it tastes foul; 2) it’s not champagne, but Sidra; 3) it’s flat, or leftover from the week before. Pato also refuses to bring the traditional potato chips to accompany your cocktail orders, and serves peanuts - for which you must pay 3 pesos, even if your order of a bottle of expensive champagne or a large bottle of beer! [I've learned to bring my own bag of papas fritas these days ;)]

Unlike many milongas (Chique, for example), tandas of other rhythms are always played during the afternoon: a tanda of tropical (merengue and cumbia), rock ‘n roll (Dixieland to Elvis) and folklore (La Chacarera). The DJ is capable, but tends to be a little unoriginal and repetitive.

Finally, for added excitement, each week there is a sorteo, an entrance ticket prize draw, for a bottle of champagne or a snack plate. Best of luck!

Cherie’s Tango Services

If you are interested in trying out Los Consagrados, or indeed another milonga in Buenos Aires, you will be fine going along by yourself, even as a novice, and you will likely be warmly welcomed. However, we understand that some people are a little apprehensive about their first visit to a milonga, which is why Cherie and her partner Ruben offer to accompany you there and make your tango experience in Buenos Aires a fun and authentic one…

If you are interested in this, or want to find out more about their other tango services and tours, you can contact Ruben & Cherie on the following details:

• Email: BsAsMilonga@aol.com
• Telephone: 4932-5027 (from within Buenos Aires)
• Blog: Tango Cherie