Bug OFF!

Restaurant Pest Control

2013-01-24T11:26:00.002-06:00

Restaurant Pest Control

Restaurant owners and managers must be aware that although they can do their own pest control (in most states,) there are certain regulations and limitations for pest management in any commercial food handling area. The regulations are in place to ensure that food, food preparation equipment, serving areas, etc. are not contaminated with pesticide insecticide, rodenticide residues. Measures are also taken in fly control and rodent control to ensure that no body parts can contaminate foods or areas where food is uncovered, prepared, cooked, served or eaten.
The main areas covered here concern general purpose pest control (roaches, ants, spiders, pantry pests, flies, etc.) and rodent removal, rodent control. Indoor fly infestations in restaurants are also discussed.

General Purpose Pest Control

The most used insecticides for homes and business are not always labeled for use in commercial kitchens, food serving areas and food preparation areas due to possible contamination of foods and utensils. Care must be taken in choosing the correct products for these sensitive areas. Always read and follow label instructions before mixing and applying any insecticide. Never apply insecticides while food is being prepared, served, eaten or otherwise open or exposed. Keep treated areas clear of people, guard dogs and open food until all areas have been allowed to dry.
The most common spray products used in restaurants (in control of ants, cockroaches, spiders, flies, pantry pests, other pests) are Tempo SC, Tempo WP, Suspend SC and Acephate (Orthene.) Of these, Tempo and Acephate are used more than others.

Tempo SC: Liquid Concentrate Tempo WP: Wettable Powder Concentrate

Tempo products (Tempo SC, Tempo WP) are good for most general purpose pest control accounts. We often see populations of German Cockroaches that are resistant to synthetic Pyrethrins pesticides. When this happens, switch to Acephate for one or two months. Acephate (a soluble powder concentrate that does have an odor) works slower than most pesticides ("peaking" at the 4th or 5th day) but works great on resistant roaches. Acephate also adheres to stainless steel surfaces better than other insecticide sprays. Once the resistant roaches have been exterminated from the area, switch back to your odorless Tempo insecticide.
For stubborn problems and long-term roach prevention, Gentrol IGR can be added to insecticide sprays and Mop Up can be used when mopping kitchen floors. Use Gentrol in non-food areas. Gentrol Point Source is another IGR option that does not require spraying. Both of these insect growth regulators contain Hydroprene, which is not a pesticide.
Hydroprene and Nylar will work alone (for prevention), can be used with an insecticide spray or can be used to enhance a roach baiting program.
An alternative to using sprays in commercial kitchens and restaurants is the use of a good professional roach bait. Maxforce FC Roach Bait Gel is the best. When using Maxforce (or any other roach bait,) refrain from using any type of insecticide spray, aerosol, dust, fog or bug bomb as these products will contaminate your bait, making them unattractive to your target pests. Once a large roach population has been cleaned out with the use of Maxforce FG Roach Bait Gel, you can either continue to bait the area (if roaches are your only insect pests) or switch to Tempo SC or Tempo WP.
When spraying kitchens, dining rooms or other sensitive areas, "hosing down" the place is not necessary, is unsafe and usually illegal. Pay close attention to cracks, crevices, hiding places, entry points and areas where roaches, ants, pantry pests and other bugs forage for food or water. Receiving areas and storage rooms are also important and should be kept clean and treated on a regular basis.
For heavy or stubborn infestations of cockroaches, ants or pantry pests you should use Pyrethrin Aerosol in cracks and crevices after spraying with Acephate, Tempo or Suspend SC. The aerosol crack and crevice tool helps flush unwanted pests from their hiding places and is also an excellent tool for inspection. Can also used as a space spray for flying insects.

Controlling Flies In and Around Restaurants

Most fly problems can be solved by locating and eliminating the sources where flies breed and feed. To help locate these areas, go to our Fly Breeding Sites page.
Restaurants and other commercial food plants have particular problems to face in fly elimination and fly control programs. For health and safety reasons, fly populations cannot be ignored. The very nature of food preparation increases the problems of indoor and outdoor flies.
Outdoor areas (as well as indoor areas) must be kept as clean as possible. Dumpsters and garbage disposal equipment must be well kept and clean. Employees need constant reminding on dumpster procedures, keeping area clean and always closing dumpster lid after use.
For constant problems with filth flies, roaches and ants a good spray with long residual is needed. Tempo WP will work for this job but Demon WP is better. You can also spray exterior doors and walls near garbage receptacles.

Indoor fly problems often need the aid of professional ultraviolet fly traps.
Fly zappers should never be used in food handling areas. For sensitive areas a trap that uses a combination of ultraviolet and pheromones is best. Use the Fly Trap Professional in kitchens and food preparation areas.

If extra control is needed in dining areas or in rooms where there is a buffet, use a Luralite Ultraviolet fly trap. Smaller rooms and hallways are better off using one or more Cento Fly Traps which are less expensive and are not highly visible to customers or guests in hotels, casinos or restaurants.

Rodent Removal, Rodent Control

Special attention to product selection is necessary for eliminating rodents in restaurants. It is illegal and unsafe to use snap traps or rodenticides in any area where food is being prepared or served. Never use any rodent control item that might contaminate food or utensils with baits, poisons or rodent body parts.
Acceptable devices to use indoors are glue traps and live traps. These items will help capture rats or mice that manage to get into the building. Your best results will be achieved by killing rodents before they enter the structure and maintaining a clean property. Keep dumpsters as clean as possible; cut grass and weeds that along fence rows where rodents might hide or enter the property.
Using tamper resistant bait stations on the exterior is very important. Not only do these bait boxes keep rodent baits (and traps) safe from non-target animals; they will give you a chance to kill the pests before they have a chance to enter your building. Check bait stations a couple of times each week to make sure that you have plenty of fresh bait on hand. Rats and mice tend to avoid old, stale or moldy rodenticides. Bait blocks (such as Contrac or Talon) work best in outdoor bait stations. Both Talon and Contrac bait blocks are specially designed to place in bait stations and they will hold up to outdoor moisture better than bait pellets or meal.
If there are guard dogs (or other non-target animals or wildlife) on the property, tamper resistant bait stations are a must.

Should you have a termite warranty?

2012-01-05T10:04:00.000-06:00

You need to compare the cost of extending your warranty with the cost of a new preventive treatment and an accompanying warranty. The current warranty is expiring because the effectiveness of the initial treatment is wearing off. I suggest that you you call several competent, established, pest control companies to get bids. Such as Blue Jay Termite and Pest Control of Nebraska
Find out what will be covered if you have only a warranty, if subsequent treatment is then needed.
If you plan on upgrading your home you should then have a termite inspection.If termites are discovered, treatment can be arranged. It is a matter of comparing costs for the warranty and its benefits with cost of retreatment.

2011-11-28T10:39:00.000-06:00

Termite Activity in Nebraska

Termites are active across the state, from Scottsbluff and North Platte to Lincoln and Omaha, Nebraska.
What Types of Termites are in Nebraska?
Subterranean termites are known to cause damage to homes in Nebraska. Drywood termites are not native to the state.
Are Formosan Termites in Nebraska?
Formosan termites have not been identified in Nebraska. This species typically lives in very warm locations in the southern U.S.
When Do Termites Swarm in Nebraska?
Generally, termites swarm on a warm day after a rainfall. Swarms may occur during the winter in heated buildings. The swarming habits of the most common species in Nebraska are described below.

The eastern subterranean termite swarms during the day from March to May.
The arid-land subterranean termite swarms in the daytime in the spring and fall.

More Information about Termites in Nebraska
According to Termite Infestation Probability Zones, the southeastern half of Nebraska is located in Zone #2 (moderate to heavy), which means the potential for termite damage is considered significant. The northeastern half of the state is located in TIP Zone #3 (slight to moderate), which means there is some potential for damage by termites. Areas with lower probabilities for activity require fewer termite control measures to meet International Residential Code building standards for new homes than areas with more frequent activity.
Although drywood termites are not established in Nebraska, it is possible for this species to travel in wooden objects, such as furniture and wine crates, and establish colonies in the state. Drywood termites have been found in areas far from their native habitats. A licensed termite inspector can help identify species not native to the state.
In states like Nebraska where termites are fairly active and widespread, it is essential to maintain an effective termite prevention and control program. If you own a home in Nebraska, talk to your termite control expert about methods to help protect your home from termite infestations and damage.

Snake Proofing your Home

2011-11-17T10:08:00.000-06:00

Are you being bothered by Snakes, don’t worry,
. You can take matters into your own hands and fix things so that you may never see a snake in those places again. If these steps are followed thoughly and carefully, you should be able to live in a reasonably snake-free environment.

Before doing anything else, survey your home, yard, and neighborhood for potential snake, mouse, or rat feeding or harborage areas. Any place that is hospitable to mice, rats, toads, frogs, and geckos, is also highly attractive to snakes, because rodents and anurans are the favorite prey of most snakes, including our common rat snakes, hog-nosed snakes, and garter snakes, but also including venomous pit vipers such as copperheads, cottonmouths, and rattlesnakes. Venomous coral snakes, too, favor places where they can find abundant prey (mostly small snakes), and ready-made shelter. The most likely places where snakes and their prey congregate involve a. The vicinity of, and sometimes within, bird feeders* (except hummingbird feeders),
b. Within and around woodpiles,
c. Within and around rock piles,
d. Within and around piles of leaves, tree limbs, or weeds,
d. Within and around stacks of debris, masonry**, or un-racked firewood*** lying on the ground,
e. Within expanses of uncut weeds or grasses, both in the yard, and bordering the yard within 10 feet of the yard perimeter,
f. Within the confines of thick and impenetrable shrubbery, and
g. Occupying harborage space in, around, and beneath structures such as fence and foundation voids, mobile homes, homes and/or garages on pier & beam foundations, sheds, dog houses, playhouses, and the like.

2. For all but the last item in the above list, the obvious fix is to correct and/or remove these feeding and/or harborage areas from your yard. However, except for bird feeders*, it is generally unwise to undertake such removal operations without first observing certain precautions, and then planning the removal carefully.

3. For harborage space in, around, and under structures that serve important functions, the fix is to seal such spaces wherever possible using
a. sand, decayed granite, or fine gravel to fill voids in dry stack rock fences, gaps between patios and home foundations, and ;
b. hardware cloth with a mesh of 1/4th inch or less for gaps that require ventilation, burying the bottom 6-12 inches of hardware cloth in the soil,
c. caulk, metal sheathing or wood planking for gaps that do not require ventilation
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Caution: note first that if you are not sure if ventilation of the sealed void will be compromised by the contemplated sealant, it is wise to consult someone in the building trades for advice, as tightly sealing a space that is subject to constant or intermittent high-moisture conditions will lead to wood rot; second: never place wood in contact with the soil, to avoid the risk of a termite infestation;
third, if the void you are sealing presently houses mice or rats, it is wise to treat such voids with rodent baits first, before sealing the void
fourth, if the void you are sealing presently houses larger animals, such as ferrel cats or dogs, foxes, armadillos, opossums, raccoons, squirrels, or skunks–the void should be sealed with a one-way door that allows the animal to exit without letting them re-enter; however, sealing the void at the wrong time of year may lead to the presence of a litter of young in the void, and that can lead to other problems; in such cases it is wise to consult a animal control specialist such as BlueJay Termite and Pest for advice before proceeding.
Regarding sealing your home to prevent rodents and snakes from entering from outside: Many authorities recommend the use of caulk and other liquid/gel/silicone and similar sealants (as opposed to the use of hardware cloth and other screening materials) that fully obstruct any and all ingress/egress ports that your home or business has in its outer walls, and in its roof. In my experience, which spans more than fifty years of working with residential and business structures in Missouri, Florida, New York, and Texas, it is generally unwise to undertake vigorous sealing projects of that nature to fully seal all potential ingress/egress ports in a building. In the process, one inevitably obstructs and closes off the routes by which moisture in interior walls and voids is wicked and ventilated to the outside. Normal wicking and ventilation of such moisture aids in reducing the risk of wood rot and fungal growth. Furthermore, such processes restrict the flow of air between the home interior and the outside environment, leading to additional health issues. Health professionals recommend that the entire air-content of a home be fully exchanged with outside air at least twice a day, so that collections of toxic fumes from furnishings, cooking appliances, etc., will remain within healthy limits. Homes that are carefully sealed with caulk/gels/silicone or similar sealants to prevent entry of rodents, insects, and snakes, inevitably trap moisture and toxic gases. That is unhealthy for the structure itself, and for the humans and pets that occupy that structure. Instead of relying on such unhealthy practices, use screening and hardware cloth wherever possible, and consider taking as many steps as appropriate on the outside of your home or business to create an environment that neither nurtures or attracts pests of any kind.
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4. For harborage areas that are not under your control, find out who is responsible for them and request, preferably in writing, that they be corrected or removed. If such harborage areas are on property belonging to a business or governmental entity, consider taking photographs to support your complaint, and submit them along with your written request that corrective action be taken. Do not be dismayed if the business or governmental entity you deal with is less than cooperative. It seems more typical today than in any time in the recent past that some businesses and governments tend to think that they are not responsible for the health hazards that exist on the properties under their control. If you experience a lack of cooperation, document the conditions well, with photographs and text, and take your case to the next level. You may have to become something of an irritating gadfly to get things done, but eventually you will prevail. I speak from experience on this.
5. For all snake, mouse, or rat harborage areas under your direct control, it is wise to begin dealing with them by taking precautionary steps to prepare them for correction or removal: these include
a. treating the harborage areas with a commercial mouse & rat bait, carefully following the directions on the label for the bait that you use, and waiting a suitable period of time to insure no mice or rats remain in those areas (there are no baits for toads and anurans, but removal of harborage will suffice to make them move elsewhere);
b. treating intractable harborage areas with a snake repellent, carefully following the directions supplied by the manufacturer for the snake repellent of your choice, then waiting a suitable period of time to reduce the risk that snakes remain in those areas.
After the above precautionary steps have been carried out:
6. Remove the harborage areas completely, or pay someone else to have the harborage areas removed for you. BUT REMEMBER THIS FIRST: Snake harborage areas may continue to harbor snakes, even after you have removed their prey and treated the area with snake repellent, as they remain attractive as places of congregation. When contracting with someone to remove harborage areas for you, make sure they have the competence to know what they are doing and are willing and able to accept the risks involved. When attempting to remove woodpiles, rock piles, piles of debris, etc., yourself, take appropriate precautions, including but not limited to, (a) wearing heavy, leather, and, if possible, specially constructed snake-proof boots on your feet, (b) following safe practices such as never disturbing a portion of harborage with a hand or foot; use a long-handled pry-tool instead, and (c) taking the time to survey underneath all the harborage you are removing, using a bright flashlight or other bright light source, for possible snakes that may be hiding there.
Suggestion: If possible, conduct harborage removal during the winter months, when outside temperatures are low and cold-blooded reptiles are more likely to be hibernating underground (but remember that snakes may still be found in such areas, and though they will be sluggish from the cold, they can still bite. Also, conduct harborage removal during daylight hours, on a sunny day, when you will have good visibility and will be more likely to observe a snake that is being sheltered beneath a portion of harborage you are in the process of moving.
7. Once all the harborage areas under your control have been removed,
a. regularly treat your home, garage, sheds, and storage areas thereafter with mouse and rat bait (always follow the label directions, to the letter) to insure rodents will not take up residence in such areas in the future,
b. regularly treat the perimeters of your yard, home, sheds, and shrubbery with a snake repellent, replenishing those treatments in accordance with the manufacturer’s directions for the snake repellent of your choice,
c. keep the grass in your yard, and on the border of your yard within 10 feet of your yard’s perimeter, cut to less than 2 inches at all times, and
d. frequently check for and correct all new rodent and snake harborage areas that pop up over time, keeping in mind that such areas tend to arise unbidden as the natural accompaniment of ordinary life, and should be found and remedied as quickly as possible in order to keep the risk of snake encounters as low as possible.

Don't Let the Bed Bugs BITE Part 2 (Treatment)

2011-11-14T10:15:00.000-06:00

If you are at all unsure of applying toxic chemicals yourself or if you have a particularly large infestation it is probably wise to get in professional such as BlueJay Termite and Pest Control to help in the treatment of bed bugs.

Treatment for bed bugs can vary but it is essential that swift, immediate action is taken to eliminate the infestation quickly.
Firstly you should determine that you do actually have bed bugs. This is relatively easy to do. Inspect your mattress closely particularly in any creases and folds, around buttons and handles as well as along seam lines. Don’t forget to check the box spring too. Should you have rips or holes in the fabric of your mattress or box spring this potentially will make the treatment for bed bugs more difficult because they will undoubtedly be living and breeding inside

Here are six helpful tips to ridding your home of BED BUGs

1. Remove all bedding and soft furnishings – you should place these in sealed plastic bags to prevent the spread of bugs to other areas of the building. All items which can be washed should be at as high of a temperature as the fabrics will handle.
2. Items that cannot be washed can be placed in the dryer on the highest setting for 10-15mins.
Any items which are not able to be washed or dried can possibly be steam cleaned. Anything else may have to be sealed in plastic bags and discarded.
3. All furniture should be vacuumed thoroughly.– this is ideal for getting rid of bed bug eggs and nymphs which are very small and not easily spotted. If possible again use a steam cleaner to kill any remaining eggs etc. Bed bugs cannot withstand heat but it must be instantaneous and somewhere around 450oC – turning the central heating up will not kill these blood suckers off.
4. Clear out any cracks and crevices, at this point a little DIY may be a good idea to seal up these hiding holes for good! Vacuum the reminder of the room -leave no piece of furniture, carpet, curtain, cushion undone! Remember to dispose of the vacuum bag immediately making sure that it is sealed. Then follow the same route in the same rigorous manner using a steam cleaner.
5. When carrying out this cleaning operation don’t forget to clean things such as picture frames and smoke alarms as well. Bed bugs will hide anywhere. Remember to get rid of any news papers, magazines etc. which may be lying around.
6. Once you are satisfied that every corner has been cleaned your chosen treatment by calling your nearest professional such as BlueJay Termite and Pest.

2011-11-10T20:51:00.000-06:00

Carpenter ants and termites are wood-destroying insects that cost us billions of dollars every year. More than 90% of the homes in the US are wood framed. But even homes built of masonry and steel serve up delicious wood treats to these pests. Left unchecked, they systematically destroy our homes and valuable wood objects in them.

Termites:
Termite damage can be structurally devastating. It is difficult, but very important, for homeowners to recognize termite infestations as early as possible. The best advice I can give is to have your home inspected by a professional such as BlueJay Termite and Pest before you purchase it. If you are already a home owner and have seen signs that may suggest infestation, have it inspected immediately. Homeowners in high-risk areas should schedule annual inspections which can cost as little as $50 each visit.

Extermination doesn’t come cheap. If your luck runs bad and termites are found digesting your home, you can expect to pay at least $500 and perhaps thousands of dollars to set the problem straight. Avoid getting ripped off. Don’t sign an extermination contract until the inspector has shown you hard physical evidence that termites have infested your home. Don’t settle for a handful of termite wings. Ask to see damaged wood or other indicators.

Liquid vs Bait Stations in Termite Treatment

2011-11-07T16:30:00.000-06:00

The two main types of termite treatments for homes are traditional liquid barriers (drilling, trenching, rodding), and termite baiting systems (bait stations filled with a bait cartridge which is place in the ground). Both treatments are offered by BlueJay Termite and Pest and are customized to fit your property.

Termidor Liquid

is made from a revolutionary new non-repellent liquid termiticide. Termites cannot see, smell, taste or avoid Termidor. Instead they share it with others in their colony by touching or ingesting it. This is in sharp contrast to older liquid termite controls, which rely on repellent barriers that termites can find breaks in or avoid completely. Termites who contact Termidor transfer it to every other termite they come in contact with. The "Transfer Effect™" of Termidor is engineered to be slow-acting so that termites have plenty of time to spread it throughout the entire termite colony. Click on the Termidor Logo to the left for more information.

America's #1 termite defense with over 2 million homes treated since 2000.
Kills by ingestion, contact, and the "Transfer Effect," meaning affected insects help spread Termidor throughout the colony before dying themselves.
Controls colonies up to 6 times faster than bait systems.
Most effective termiticide — over 10 years of test data prove most effective and fastest at eliminating termite populations.
Responsible, low-dose treatment, with no odor.
Has no effect on soil micro-organisms, earth worms or plants.
Termite Bait System

is proven to eliminate termite colonies around your home. It is the most environmentally friendly way to rid you house for termites.
Non-disruptive and Environmentally responsible
Blue Jay Termite and Pest can install and monitor the Termite Bait System exterior stations without even entering your home.
With the Termite Bait System, no drilling in floors or foundations is required, and it results in limited disturbances to landscaping.
Liquid chemical treatments involve digging a trench and treating the soil around and under homes with hundreds of gallons of diluted chemicals. Additional liquid chemical may be injected through floors, porches and patios
The Termite Bait System uses termite bait only when and where termites are present to eliminate the colony.
With liquid chemical treatments, hundreds of gallons of diluted chemical may be necessary to treat around and underneath a home.

Termite Warranty's
Our guarantee is to get the termite control job done right. That's why we offer warranties that are renewable and 100% transferable.

Spiders KEEP OUT!

2011-11-06T15:38:00.000-06:00

Protecting your home from spiders can seem like an endless job. Here are a few tips to help eliminate these obnoxious sometime deadly creatures.

While spiders can be very beneficial around the house,eating many common insects around the house and garden, they can also pose a significant danger to pets and children. Which is why it is important to enlist the help of the spider control http://www.bluejaytermiteandpest.com experts.

A spider bite on an adult person is typically painful at the time, resulting in swelling localised around the bite, however some spider bites can result in death.

On a small child or pet, the results can be quite dramatic, so it is crucial to conduct effective spider control to reduce this risk especially for brown recluse spiders.

Below you will find an example of the brown recluse anatomy, If you find these be sure to call Blue Jay Pest

In winter months, spiders tend to retreat to warmer enclosed areas to lay eggs; in the summer, they are generally sighted more regularly.

As the spider control Blue Jay Pest experts, we only use safe and effective means for the control and removal of spiders around the home removal of spiders around the home or business.

Click Here to contact Darla at www.bluejaytermiteandpest.com

Protecting your home from Pest in Cooler Months

2011-11-05T13:50:00.000-05:00

Do you hear a strange rustling?
Smell something musty?

See droppings that don't belong to a pet?

You might have some "unwanted house guests," an extreme understatement when it comes to the some of the common invaders in the Midwest region- mice, rats, bats and snakes.
You don't have to open the door to invite rodents, varmints or critters into your home.

Mice can get through a space about the size of a dime. You will need to examine your home closely to defend off these rodents. Look for open cracks around the home's foundation, then work your way up to the roof top.
"Mice can climb straight up a brick walls, "Look at where power lines or cable lines come into your house and seal with weather proof sealant.
Be sure to check around garage doors as well. If that bottom seal is has cracks, you might want to replace it, Also look at the corner, by the jamb, and make sure that area is sealed. If tightly sealing the area isn't an option, then put steel wool in the area. Mice can't chew through it.

Using bait blocks and traps will assist in the elimination of mice but excluding the from the home is primary.

It's more than just unwanted guests, though. Rodents, such as rats or mice, spread more than several diseases worldwide, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. The gestation period is about 19–21 days, and they give birth to a litter of 3–14 young (average 6–8). One female can have some 5–10 litters per year, so the mice population can increase very quickly. Breeding occurs throughout the year. . Females reach sexual maturity at about 6 weeks and males at about 8 weeks, but both can breed as early as five weeks.
Making this an issue that has to be attended to. If you need any further information please feel free to comment with you questions.

Don't Let the Bed Bugs BITE

2011-11-05T11:24:00.000-05:00

How To Detect the Signs of Bed Bugs

Bed bugs are nasty little creatures, and as pesky as they are, they’re also stealthy.
Search for their waste

Bed Bug blood smears on bed sheet

The first sign bed bugs are present in your couch is their waste. Bed bugs, like any other insects are very hard to find but they always leave something behind. One of the biggest indicators that your mattress is infested with bed bugs is their droppings. Search your mattress for dark spots that can either be solid feces, eggs, shed skins and blood blots. If you find a handful, then there are more bed bugs than you expected.

Search yourself for bites

Bed Bug Bites Rash

One of the biggest evidences of bed bug infestation is bed bug bites. Bed bug bites symptoms are very hard to identify because it takes a while before you feel the itchy sensation. They are also very hard to compare with other insect bites because they are closely identical. Even though it is usually an itchy bite that we ignore, there are some cases wherein it reaches a large magnitude. There are some cases when bed bugs bite baby infants and transfer diseases like hepatitis b and Chagas disease. Search for their lairs
If there are bugs, then they must be hiding somewhere. Their hiding places include crevices in the mattress, holes, the folds in the linens, nearby carpets and furniture, curtains and many more. Seeing a live one may be unlikely but seeing a dead one is a first sign that bed bugs are really present in the area.
Catch them red handed
If you still want solid proof that there are bed bugs around, then you may want to stay up late and see them for yourself. Bed bugs are nocturnal creatures, so have a flashlight with you in your sleep. Turn the lights off and wake up at around dawn. With the flashlight, watch the bedbugs slowly creep through your sheets. This, however, does not guarantee a 100% sighting especially if you only have a few.

Silver Fish

2011-11-04T14:36:00.000-05:00

What is a Silverfish Bug?

The Silverfish Bug, also known as Lepisma saccharina, is a small insect without wings. Its name, silverfish, comes from its silvery color and the fact that is resembles a fish. Silverfish's mostly rely on carbohydrates to survive that come from various natural sugars and starches. In urban environments, they will eat glue, paper of any kind including books, sugar, coffee and even clothing, making them quite a pest when they are able to make their way into homes.
They are nocturnal, and typically can be anywhere from thirteen to twenty five millimeters in length, with most of their length coming from their abdomen. Silverfish have two antennae at their end of their abdomens, and have eyes at the front of their body, despite the fact that other members of the Thysanura family are known for not having eyes.
Silverfish do not have traditional lings, and instead they have an antenna that they move around in a motion that resembles the way a fish swims through water, providing another reason why they are commonly referred to by their nickname.

Silverfish bugs are found throughout the world including parts of North America, Australia, Asia and Europe. They are also found on a number of Pacific islands. They are mostly limited to areas with quite a bit of moisture, as they require humidity upwards of 75%. Although they are not commonly found in urban areas, they have been known to inhabit areas of the home where moisture is found including kitchens, garages, closets and bathrooms. They can be quite a nuisance when they infest your home because they are able to rapidly reproduce and multiply, which creates larger infestations in urban areas that provide the right environment for them to live.
The reproductive cycle of the silverfish is very unique and at times can last as long as one full hour. The male and female bugs start by standing face to face and rubbing their antennae's together. The male will back away, and then return to this same position repeatedly throughout the ordeal. The female will often chase the male as he backs away. Before mating, the two bugs will stand alongside each other, and will rub their antennae's more. The male will then release his spermatophore, which is a sperm capsule, and the female will intake the spermatophore into her own body, fertilizing the egg. Their mating ritual is completely unique and is not replicated in any other species related to the silverfish.
Silverfish are considered to be among the most damaging of pests because of their ability to rapidly multiply and destroy property. In urban environments, they will continually feast upon whatever sugars and starches that they can find in the home, and are quick to move around the house in search of food when they are unable to locate food in their present area. One silverfish may have as many as sixty six offspring over the course of their lifetime.

CockRoaches

2011-11-04T13:56:00.000-05:00

Cockroaches are known carriers of serious diseases, such as, salmonella, dysentery, gastroenteritis and other stomach complaint organisms. They adulterate food and spread pathogenic organisms with their feces and defensive secretions.

This is why it is so important to have a IPM Program (Integrated Pest Management). Eliminating the food source as well treating the are! This is something the Pest Technician and Home Owner will need to do hand in hand.

If left unchecked a cockroach infestation can rapidly expand it's numbers in a few weeks or months to become major risk to health and safety.
Modern science has the answer. A cockroach food bait that has a delayed lethal effect ... ensuring enough time for the bait to be transferred to other cockroaches by each others feces. The IGR bait is an insect growth regulator that stops the ability of the cockroach to replace its skin - made of "chitin". These IGR's are of ultra low toxicity to people. Applied as small blobs in cockroach habitat areas away from human contact, the gel-bait is highly attractive to cockroaches and provides effective control, usually for many months.

What you as the Homeowner can do.

Make your home unfit for cockroaches, where possible, take away their food, water and restrict shelter and access points into the kitchen and they will almost certainly move somewhere else.

keep all food in sealed containers. Particularly at night, do not leave food scraps exposed in the kitchen or waste storage areas. Thoroughly clean all benches and food preparation areas, particularly between counters and appliances. Regularly vacuum accessible likely harborage and high activity areas, carpets, drapes, furniture, kitchen and bathroom cupboards in order to remove cockroach eggs and food deposits.