This is a sponsored post with Nest Labs. 

There is little question that smart home technologies are on the uptick. New, connected “smart” home products, it seems, are being released by the day.

For homeowners there’s ongoing appeal. These products pair easily with smartphones; we all have them. Right? (And that’s in fact what makes them smart.) When installed properly, smart home products offer homeowners not only convenience and comfort, but also greater peace of mind and control. They keep homeowners “connected,” especially when they are away from home.

Just a few years ago, homeowners were only casually browsing information on smart products. Recent studies suggest, though, that these same homeowners are now ready to buy. (Albeit, they may still be looking for companies / partners that, well, get it.) And while some smart contractors have already expanded their product offerings, installation services, and support, the o-word – Opportunity, for many pros, remains.

Smart Home Security

Let’s take home security in this view (it’s in fact the focus of this article). As a homeowner, would you trust the protection and safety of not only your belongings, but your family, to misunderstood, “pieced together,” or poorly installed components?

For pros with the know-how, they become experts in a field. Their trade is as much about installing products as navigating the proverbial seas of rapidly changing technology. The smart home security contractor brings together complementary technology to provide a unified and effective solution for today’s homeowner.

There is no question that interest in smart home products, and further smart home security products, is on the uptick, with (inter-) connected components (already perhaps) becoming the new norm.

The real question to ask is … how long will it take for the trades (working in both new and established businesses) to catch up?

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Outdoor Cameras – The First Layer of Modern Home Security

True Story – In 2012, and again in 2016, my family fell victim to burglary. In 2012, burglars actually broke in and nabbed, well, a lot. A few years later, in 2016, we lost only a prized Christmas decoration from our front lawn.

To this day, I feel that both of these crimes were preventable. If I was only able to provide the authorities an image, or a video, of the culprits OR better – if I was able to stop these crooks before they even started — maybe things might have turned out differently. Instead, both incidents served only as “valuable lessons” for me, and my family.

Mike Ripa of Powers IoT (they are certified Nest Pros) assured me that my story is not uncommon. As he puts it, “Most of our camera installs start with a homeowner calling after some incident.”

A traditional (wired or wireless) security system, which often limits its protection to the home’s possible entry points (doors and windows), wouldn’t have helped me in that particular circumstance from 2016. I would have needed a device that extended its coverage to the entire premises, including my front lawn.

And with that, enter the weatherproof Nest Cam IQ Outdoor. For me, it took not one but two incidents before I broke down and purchased a two-pack, installing one on the front and one on the rear of my home, recently.

Here: In Part 2 of this article, you’ll find the complete How-To Guide for Installing the Nest Cam IQ outdoor.

WiFi-Enabled Outdoor Cameras :: A Tech (Mini-) Revolution

Just think, not too long ago the only option in video-based security was the closed-circuit system. That changed with accessibility to WiFi. Early WiFi-connected cameras, however, relied on batteries, and because of this, only turned on when they sensed motion. Nest Cam IQ outdoor is different. It plugs directly into a power outlet, offering 24-hour video surveillance.

“Cameras are what I consider the first and most important layer of modern home security,” says Gene LaNois, Head of the Professional Channel at Nest Labs.

As it stands, my cameras are configured to stream footage to my Nest app, while also saving footage for a period of ten days to the cloud through my Nest Aware subscription¹. This setup could be considered the default configuration for Nest’s security cameras. But with the announced integration with I-View Now, and the recent release of Nest Secure, these options have significantly expanded. (Read more below.)

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Smart Home Security Becomes More Inter-connected

Known widely for the Nest Learning Thermostat, Nest recently introduced first, a next-gen security camera in Nest Cam IQ outdoor, and second – Nest Secure, the company’s first alarm system.

To me (and I get it), it shows the company’s commitment to security and the connectability of its components.

Nest Cam IQ indoor and outdoor cameras are designed to work seamlessly with Nest Secure. And sure, we know Nest as a maker of connected home products. That is, each device is connected to us through an easy-to-use mobile app. But now, more and more, these components are beginning to connect to each other.

A Virtual Unboxing of Nest Secure

On its website, Nest states: “With Nest Secure, home security doesn’t have to be scary. It doesn’t have to mean confusing passcodes, loud beeps and stressful countdowns.” And anyone familiar with traditional alarm systems knows just how annoying these aspects of a security system can be.

What makes this system different? There are actually three ways to arm and disarm this system: 1.) Via the Nest app, 2.) Using a passcode, and 3.) With a device called the Nest Tag.  See below for details.

There are three unique parts of the Nest Secure system:

-Nest Guard:

The keypad and the control panel in traditional systems systems are often separated: one placed at a specified entry point, the other often in the home’s mechanical space, respectively. In Nest Guard, these two “functions” are combined into one. WiFi and a standard wall outlet are all that’s required in firing up the brains of this system.

-Nest Detect:

These dual-purpose sensor(s) both attach to doors and windows, and can also monitor entire rooms. Unlike traditional sensors, they sense not only open and close of windows/doors, but also motion in a protected space. Up to 30 Detects can be supported per home.

Further, you can bypass the alarm via the Quiet Open function on the Nest Detect, as opposed to traditional systems where you must return to the control panel to perform a bypass function.

-Nest Tag:

Similar in appearance to a key fob, it works much like those employed in commercial security systems. A swipe of the Nest Tag in proximity of the Nest Guard disarms (and arms) the system with minimal hassle.

See the entire Nest Secure system pictured below.

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To put the release of Nest Secure into perspective, it was recently named to Time Magazine‘s 25 Best Inventions of 2017. It all works on WiFi, but you can sign up for a cellular backup service in case your WiFi goes down.² (Sold separately for $5 a month.) Professional monitoring is also available through MONI Smart Security. MONI’s plans start at $24.99 a month with a three-year agreement or $34.99 a month with no long-term agreement.³

A Brief Overview on Installing Nest Secure

When asked about installation, Mike from Powers IoT says “People are already calling for it.” Testing in the company’s “lab” (and you wonder how these pros really get acquainted with new products), they determine that the system will take about an hour to install.

Mike continues, “Like the cameras, it’s not necessarily laborsome to install the sensors and get the device(s) connected. What takes time is knowing where best to place them.”

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Nest Secure is a full-featured security system on its own. But when Nest Cam security cameras are added, Gene says, “Your home can be covered front to back.”

When combined with the new Nest Cam IQ outdoor, Nest Secure is alerted if it spots an unknown person up to 50 feet away. Nest Cam IQ is the first 4k quality security camera featuring facial recognition.

A Continued Theme for Pros – Easy Installs & Easy Sales

Gene points out that “Many homeowners want the professional assurance that they have secured their home correctly. This is where calling a Nest Pro makes sense for a customer to consider.”

While Nest products can be DIY, some homeowners don’t trust themselves to install security components. They frequently look to pros for installation and support. And this is exactly where programs like Nest Pro come in.

Not only a gateway to products, the Nest Pro program provides pros with exclusive pricing and extended warranties, training, live support, and ongoing customer referrals.

For Pros: A growing group of Nest Pros can be found here. To learn more about becoming a Nest Pro, click here.

Enter the Smart Trade

It’s not a stretch to think that electricians, HVAC, phone, cable, home theater, home automation, home networking contractors, and traditional alarm pros also possess the skills required to install these smart products.

In this all, we are seeing the infancy of a new trade, which Nest refers to as “The Smart Trade.” These pros work with the 4th utility, yes the 4th utility – Connectivity. The way we perceive infrastructure, without a doubt, has changed. Homeowners, of course, can’t live without the core utilities: Water, Electricity and Gas. But, just think, at this point is internet connectivity really any different?

Nest Pros, and other professionals making up the Smart Trade, simply work in and with this commodity – connectivity, offering and installing a new class of connected products.

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The O-Word

Programs, like Nest Pro, create a platform through which pros can learn (and earn), while homeowners one-stop-shop for both new home products and for Home Pros qualified to install them.

When asked about their success, Nest Pro Elite, Powers IoT credits taking just 10 to 15 minutes with each customer to explain the technology. COO, Mike Ripa details the company’s approach, “With so many products, we spend a lot of time trying to understand what works with what. We always look to deliver, future-proof solutions.”

It’s commonly known, I think, that many traditional, established contractors tend to shun new products and technologies. They often stick with what they know, working only with products they have learned to install with confidence.

An Opportunity for You?

But here, this creates opportunity for you. By adding products like these to your lineup, at minimum, you fill gaps in down times, and add more upsell opportunities to your jobs. Further, by staying up on the tech, you become a go-to for these homeowners. The first one they call when they want to explore smart home products.

Bottom Line – If you are a working home improvement pro, you already have the skills to install these products. Established businesses also have the structure to sell. By installing these types of “smart” devices, you can boost your bottom line – a smart move.

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Thanks for reading. In part two of this article, I’ll detail my best practice tips for installing Nest Cam IQ outdoor security cameras. I’ll also explore Works with Nest integrations and the extent to which their security offerings connect with other smart home products you may already know.

Thanks. ~jb

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This is a sponsored post for Nest. I have been compensated by Nest. All opinions remain my own and I was in no way influenced by the company.

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¹Streaming, recording and mobile notifications require a working WiFi connection.
²Cellular backup may not be available in all areas.
³Pricing and availability subject to change.

The post Smart Home Security with Nest Pro || Outdoor Cams, Nest Secure & More appeared first on Home Improvement | Remodeling | Home Repair || DIY & Pro :: Building Moxie.

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Preparing for Installation of the Nest Cam IQ Outdoor

There are four simple steps involved in connecting a Nest Cam IQ outdoor. Possibly a bit of a simplification, but these cameras are surprisingly easy to install.

As listed, required steps include: 1) Powering up the camera inside and connecting it to the Nest app 2) Choosing a good spot 3) Installing the camera and 4) Inviting the family to the feed.

From these specs, installation requires a single tool, a screwdriver (okay, in most applications we are actually using a drill-driver). Power (aka an electrical outlet) and WiFi are also required.

As pictured below, you’ll find the following in the box of the Nest Cam IQ outdoor: Camera, wall plate, outdoor power cable, power adapter, hex key, screws, cable clips and wall anchors.

First Things First: Placement is Key

This can not be overstated, but like real estate, placement (i.e. location) is everything. In the context of the Nest Cam IQ outdoor, this means three things: 1) The camera needs to be located within range of the home’s WiFi signal. 2) Installed within 25 (running) feet of an electrical outlet (unless there are plans to add one) and 3) Placed in position that it can see the location to be monitored, without obstruction.

Tip: It’s a good idea to spend 10 to 15 minutes with the homeowner just on where the camera will be placed.

The camera itself is fitted with a 10-foot long USB cable. It connects to a power adapter that has a 15-foot long power cord.

Nest Cam IQ Outdoor Placement Tips

Nest’s official tips for camera placement are located here. These apply to any of the company’s weatherproof outdoor security cameras, including the earlier Nest Cam outdoor as well as the newer Nest Cam IQ outdoor.

Remember, most crimes happen through the entryways of a home. So the same doors homeowners use to come into their homes are the same points of interest to criminals.

What’s Most Important?

When advising on location and vantage point, ask the homeowner, “What’s most important for you to keep an eye on?”

Here are a few things to keep in mind:

• If using the camera for security monitoring, it’s a good idea to make sure it can see the points of entry into the home like doors or first-floor windows.
• Place the camera at a height where it can easily see people’s faces, even if they’re wearing a hat.
  • Generally, you’ll want to install the camera 7 to 10 feet above the ground. If sun shines directly into the lens of the camera, there will be a glare that affects video quality so point the camera slightly downward.
• While Nest Cam IQ outdoor is rated for temperatures up to 113° F, direct sunlight can heat things up even more. To help keep things cool, mount the camera in a shaded spot, such as under an eave.

* Start by Analyzing the Vantage Point and WiFi Signal

Before I start, I pull out my ladder and climb it. With my cell phone in hand, I hold it roughly at the location where the camera would be installed. I snap some photos. These give me a rough idea of whether our proposed camera placement would work.

In my case, these photos told me that 1) I’ll need to trim back some nearby vegetation and 2) I’ll have to place the camera outside a nearby downspout elbow.

Tip: Noodling with your phone and employing a WiFi Analyzing app, can tell you if you have a good WiFi signal at the proposed mounting location.

You want to mount the camera at a height that gives you a great view of a person’s face. And more importantly, don’t try and hide it. In terms of home security, deterrence is always better than trying to catch someone after the fact.

* Next, Think about Power

This means electrical. In my installation, I connected to an outdoor-rated GFCI outlet, fitted with an in-use bubble cover which protects the plug.

Note: More and more, I hear that when code allows, you can alternatively drill through the exterior wall and connect the camera to an interior outlet. They say this actually provides an additional layer of security and protection from the elements.

For my installation, I hung my cameras under the cover of a flared eave (Dutch Colonial) in the front and under an eave on a rear porch in the back (yes, you can do that).

I was in luck on my house because in both locations I had an outdoor outlet easily within reach. Of course, for some installations, it may make more sense to add a waterproof GFCI outlet.

Once you think through all these things, you should review your findings with the homeowner. And once agreed upon, you can jump into the actual installation steps.

Installation of Nest Cam IQ Outdoor

* Connect the Camera to WiFi

Per the instructions, you’ll actually start this installation indoors. Download the Nest app, if you haven’t already. This is the same app you’d use for installing and managing a Nest Learning Thermostat, Nest Protect or the new Nest Secure alarm system.

Note: For me, this was pretty straightforward because it was my camera. At a client’s site, this may require additional coordination and access to the homeowner’s device.

Plug in the camera, preferably near the home’s wireless access point. Open the app, click Settings and find Add Product in the menu. Click that. This will walk you through the process of pairing the camera with both the home’s WiFi and the mobile device.

Tip: I find it is easiest to just jot down the WiFi password if it is a “Secured” connection. Have it handy, you will need it in the setup process.

* Mount the Camera

I covered identifying a mounting location above. Once the camera’s location is decided, mount the camera’s mounting bracket with the provided screws. What they have designed is actually super nifty. A magnetic base that snaps to the mounting bracket. The camera then itself simply mates magnetically with a cupped recess in that magnetic base. Easy peasy! The camera easily pivots for fine-tuning in the camera’s view later.

Tip: If you are like me, and hang your camera from a horizontal surface (as opposed to a wall), you’ll likely have to perform an extra step in setup. The Nest Cam IQ is smart enough to accommodate inverting the image. In the Nest app, simply click the option to Rotate Image. And voila! The feed is now right side up.

* Mount the Camera’s Power Cord

IMO, the only slightly tricky part of the installation is managing the orientation of the camera’s USB and power cables. The camera comes pre-packaged with all the required exterior-rated screws and self-coupling cable-mounting clips. The power cord itself is low profile and rectangular like a USB cable. Meaning, it’s easy to twist the cord the wrong way while running it back to a plug. Be mindful of this throughout the process of mounting the camera’s cables.

I find it easiest to work by starting at the camera location and installing the cable as you move back to the power source. To help secure the camera as you work with the cable, install your first clip no more than 12” from the camera itself. This will keep the camera relatively still as you work. It’s also advisable to install a clip close to where the cable connects to the power adapter and also near the plug. Then as you set the cable (being mindful again of the orientation), set a clip from there forward at roughly 24” intervals.

If mounting to a masonry surface, you’ll have to mark off and install “masonry wall” anchors before filling the clips with screws (anchors are also pre-packaged with the Nest Cam IQ). You’ll need a 7/32” masonry bit and a hammer for this. That said, regardless of whether you are going into masonry, wood or another surface, it is always a good idea to pre-drill before screwing anything in.

* Mount the Power Adapter

The Nest Cam IQ outdoor contains a power adapter. Like a circular transformer, it is installed roughly at the midway point of the cable run. A mounting bracket is also provided for this. It is installed in a method similar to the one used for installing the USB clips.

To install the power adapter, insert the USB portion of the cable into the adapter and twist as pictured below.

This adapter should be set at least 18” above the ground.

Always be mindful of the camera’s view as you work. For more info on mounting the camera, see this page.

* Tidy up the Cabling & Plug in the Unit

The power cord comes with a slim velcro strap that helps manage slack cable. Use the strap to bundle the cable and preferably, tuck it away out of view. In both of my cases, I worked to conceal as much cabling as possible behind the bushes in my gardens.

Tip: More industrious types might look to encase slack cable in a Weatherproof Power Cord Connection Box.

With my backyard camera install, I had gray PVC running from below the house up to the GFCI’s location. I used 8” zip ties (rated for exterior use) to attach my power cord to that gray PVC piping. It made for a much neater installation.

I prepped the in-use bubble cover by removing a “knock-out”. I then plugged in the camera and shut the cover, sealing it securely with a zip tie.

* Finalizing the Setup in the Nest App, Plus Taking a Look at the Features

It doesn’t take much time to make final adjustments in the camera’s view using the app. But it’s good to know some of the features that are available in this camera. Identify these in your wrap-up with the homeowner. In-app features include:

Alerts –

Sets up the type of notifications a user will and will not receive for a given activity. This camera detects not only motion, but also sound. Using the web interface, the concept of Zones can be further established, allowing the homeowner to ignore certain areas of an image like a street or a neighbor’s yard.

Nest Aware –

Nest Aware is a cloud-based video storage system. With an Extended subscription, video is saved in the cloud for up to 30 days.¹ As a homeowner, I chose 10-days of storage myself at a cost of $10/month for the first camera and $5/month for the second camera.

Talk and Listen –

Talk and Listen features are available right from the app. These allow the user to interact with someone standing, say, at a front door. The same feature could spook someone that maybe shouldn’t be, well, where they shouldn’t be.

Supersight –

Nest Cam IQ outdoor has a 130-degree wide-angle view, 1080p HD image quality and a 12x digital zoom and enhance feature that keeps a close eye on somewhere specific. If Nest Cam IQ sees a person, special algorithms automatically zoom in and follow the action in the app.

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Smart Home Security :: Works with Nest

It’s probably a decent point to mention that Nest security products work with other smart home products like Google Home. Google Home is just one of a growing number of connected devices that Works with Nest.

Editor’s Note: To learn more about the pairing between Nest and Google Home, here’s a decent blog from Nest themselves – Google Assistant Does More with Nest.)

This inter-connectivity of devices is probably no more striking than with the smart home security niche. For example, Nest Cam IQ is designed to work seamlessly with Nest Secure – the company’s first full featured security system. To learn more about Nest Secure, please see the previous article.

The list of Works with Nest products that work to improve home security (and your installations) can be found here.

Smart Home Security :: Partnerships

A growing number of higher profile partnerships are also adding value for pros and homeowners. With a recent integration with I-View Now, all Nest cameras can now pair with most professionally monitored security systems.

Working with both Nest Secure and I-View Now, if an alert happens, the cameras pipe more detailed information to a monitoring station. This information, in turn, can be forwarded to emergency responders if necessary. The end result is better decision making for the monitoring station and fewer false alarms dispatched.

For pros, the I-View Now partnership adds new opportunities for recurring monthly revenue. With each sale and installation under the partnership, contractors receive a small cut of money regularly paid for the video monitoring service. To learn more, see this whitepaper.

Note: Where I am in Baltimore, homeowners can be fined for false alarm responses by both either police and fire stations. For more information, see this article – Nest Partners with Video Alarm Verification Service, I-View Now.

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Summing Up

I hope in reading this, you got a sense of just how easy it is to install outdoor security cameras. They are just one of a growing suite of products available with professional pricing by way of the Nest Pro program. To learn more about the Nest Pro program, click here.

For more from us on Security, see our top level category here. For more on the products, please visit Nest.com and don’t forget to read the preceding article on Smart Home Security. Cheers. ~jb

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This is a sponsored post for Nest. I have been compensated by Nest. All opinions remain my own and I was in no way influenced by the company.

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¹ Video streaming, video recording and mobile notifications require working internet and WiFi. Familiar face alerts not available on Nest Cams used in Illinois.

The post How to Install a Nest Cam Outdoor Camera || Placement, Tips for Pros & More appeared first on Home Improvement | Remodeling | Home Repair || DIY & Pro :: Building Moxie.

You know one of the first pieces I ever did for Building Moxie was on the EPA’s Lead Regulation & what it meant for those DIYing or hiring contractors. JB (editor at Building Moxie) asked if I would chime in on the updated §1926.1153 Respirable Crystalline Silica Standard. It went into effect on June 23^rd 2017 and has been receiving a lot of press lately.

In short, they dropped the allowable amount of dust one can breathe by 80% – from 250 to 50. While certain organizations were not able to get it stricken, the enforcement of it was delayed till September 23^rd 2017. This extension allowed for additional training & outreach.

As a homeowner working on your own house this along with many other items (like the RRP mentioned above) quite simply don’t apply to you.

Hiring a contractor, well, in many cases – these standards, statues, regulations, etc. pretty much guarantee to add some cost to a project. Along those lines, even though it doesn’t apply to you there are items well worth checking out.

What is Silica Dust & Who Cares:

Just what is silica dust & why should I care?

Well, if you want the official definition you can find it here (full statue & definitions). But in layman’s term –  it is dirt. Well specifically, silicon dioxide, which is naturally occurring in quartz, granite, glass, etc. It is used in making concrete, pottery, grinding powders and the list goes on.

The problem – just like many things, too much of a good thing can be bad for you. In this case, silicosis (incurable lung disease). Interestingly, one of the terms for this disease is called Potters Rot. But according to some, the original “potters rot,” though, involved lead and the glazing used.

Table 1 – a Contractor’s (& Your) Best Friend

Like many OSHA regulations that involve anything relating to breathing, they love “monitoring.” For many monitoring is not only expensive, but can be misleading. Welcome to Table 1 – if you do X, you don’t have to worry about monitoring. But in simple terms – Hey, this can protect you.

Below is a quick list of common Items (& Tasks) and the protection required.

What is APF 10?

Interestingly, OSHA has changed up their Respiratory Guidelines. Instead of calling out certain filters (like a P95 or N95), they now call out APF’s or “minimum” Assigned Protection Factors. In Table 1, the two most called out are APF 10 & APF 25. In case you are wondering, APF 25 is a partial mask with air delivery. As that is hard to get, you can always jump up to the full mask as shown in the illustration below.

Editor’s Note: APF 10 does not include “nuisance dust masks”. For more on this and other types of dust masks/respirators, see the author’s post Safety Sunday: Dust Masks vs Respirators.

Tips for Managing Silica Dust in Masonry Projects 

I noticed that jack hammering, using grinders, etc. are not listed. And Shoot! What happens if I don’t have a dust shroud for drilling?

Well here are some tips to keep in mind:

• Try to always cut, use a grinder, or drill outside.
• Use a fan to blow dust away from you, open windows / intakes, cars, etc.
• If inside, close off the area with plastic & use two fans – one to blow air into the area & one to blow the dirty air out.
• A HEPA vacuum is best for cleaning up dust (in drilling holes / left over from grinding). A regular shop vac can recirculate the dust back out.
  • Don’t have access to one, use a drywall dust bag & HEPA filter.
• Speaking of HEPA vacs, having a second person who holds the hose close to the area being worked on can help cut down on the dust released.
• If there is any doubt, throw on a respirator.
  • But don’t forget your hearing, hand, & eye protection.

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Thanks out to good friend and contributor Sean Lintow, Sr. for getting to the bottom of this recent change. His wildly informative site is called The Homeowner & Trades Resource Center (HTRC for short). You may find all of his past contributions to Building Moxie, here. And we also did an audio interview with him back in 2012. Pretty sure a lot has changed. Cheers Sean and thanks. ~jb, Editor @ BuildingMoxie.com

The post OSHA’s Updated Silica Dust Standard and Tips for Managing Masonry Dust appeared first on Home Improvement | Remodeling | Home Repair || DIY & Pro :: Building Moxie.

Let’s call it “unfinished business.” After some time off from blogging, we’re (read: I’m) back in 2017. Writing about the final year, okay, two in our now old house. And I do hope to finish up this series. The whole thing – “How to Save a House.” (Maybe.)

The final projects, though, the ones I’ve posted in 2017, are grouped under the tag Victorian Farmhouse. We listed the Victorian Farmhouse in June 2016, and settled on it (after some delays) in October. We (the Moxies) moved to our new house, a Dutch Colonial, in September of last year. (And perhaps soon I pick that up as a whole ‘nother story line.)

Unlike the others so far this year, Building a Trash Can Stand, a Pad is a relatively simple and straightforward project. One that could benefit almost any house, regardless of its age, location and/or shape.

Completed in a weekend, it probably had little impact on the ultimate sale of our house. Instead, it was simply something I felt I needed to do – to “tighten things up”. It helped solve one of several troubled areas in this yard. Areas where mature trees laid down dense shade.

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Landscaping / Lawn Challenges

While I of course welcome shade, for several reasons, and also the privacy that large trees provide, large, mature trees make it very difficult to grow nearly anything below them.

A ways back, you heard about one solution I came up with for an area of dense shade in this yard. Under a large decorative maple, I planted a shade tolerant ground cover, Vinca. That itself became part of its own post, Learning How to Landscape.

Note: For more on addressing areas of a lawn residing in heavy shade, see this post – Seeding a Lawn in Dense Shade.

Another highly challenged area of this yard sat off our driveway-side porch. (For a point of reference, I wrote about this side porch, in the article – Refinishing a Mahogany Porch.) On one side of the driveway, a cluster of holly trees created a shady grove. (This was also coincidentally my dumping ground for the clay-heavy soil I cut away from the rear of the house as we installed our paver patio.)

Across the driveway, a line of trees – some sitting on our property, others on the neighbors. Together, these trees created a shade zone for where not much apart from moss grew.

Within this zone, and just inside our gated driveway, our trash cans sat. As remodelers, it also became the location where a pile of discarded construction waste often grew. We would cut it down and it would grow again with each season. It’s roughly where our “dump pile,” as we came to call it, also sat.

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Where Do You Sit Your Trash Cans?

It was just off the driveway and inside our fence that I replaced that dump pile with a trash can stand. Meaning – come trash collection days, I still had to pull the cans out for pick up. In another situation, you could build something similar right at a home’s street. (And perhaps this is something I may consider at my new house.)

What I built wasn’t so sophisticated as a Trash Can Corral, where you would build vertically to shield a set of cans. This pad/stand was simply a stable and level location for holding my trash cans and a recycling bin. For the largest part, I used scrap or surplus material I already had on on hand.

For more ideas, check out the pin board of Trash Can Corrals I’ve included at the bottom of this post.

The trash pad featured here was constructed using the following:

* Materials

• Ground-contact rated 4 x 4s (I used three scrap pieces roughly 6½ foot in length),
• 3 pieces of 2 x 3 Bluestone,
• Landscape Fabric,
• Builders Sand (actually Play Sand in this case),
• Pea Gravel,
• 6” Structural Fasteners (HeadLoks),
• 10″ and/or 12” Landscape Spikes.

* Tools

• Transfer Shovel,
• Wheelbarrow,
• Carpenters Square + Combination Square,
• Circular Saw,
• Rubber Mallet + Maul
• Angle Grinder with Diamond Blade,
• 2-, 4-, 6- foot Levels,
• Hand Tamper,
• Impact Driver,
• Drill Driver, w/ Speed Auger Bit.

Building a Trash Can Pad

Here are the steps I took in building my trash can pad. While you may select different materials, even different techniques, the steps followed still should look roughly the same.

* Siting the Trash Can Pad

I started by siting my stand. I mean – as I’ve mentioned, I did already knew where it was going to sit. My cans had an obvious and natural location. To formalize it, though, I centered it on the strip of yard at the side of our driveway. In doing this, I was mindful of course that I’d be adding a 4 x 4 frame – a retaining element, amounting to 3 ½” at any side where a 4 x 4 would appear.

To help visualize, I simply laid down the bluestones. These were 2 x 3 fine-cut flagstones about an inch and eighth thick. Once temporarily set it place, they allowed me to get a good sense of the frame I’d need to build.

Note: I used a single bluestone as a base for a rain barrel elsewhere in the yard. For more on the Recycling Bin featured in this post – I built it with my youngest daughter, here. To read more about the types of stone (including bluestone) utilized in this type of project, here’s an article from SFGate – Stones Used in Landscaping.

* Laying out the Trash Can Pad

Tweaking and twisting, I squared up the stones not on the driveway, but instead measuring from the fence behind. At this point too, I determined that the stones would work best with about a 1” spacing in between (a space that I ultimately adjusted).

With this information, I formulated the inside location of my timber frame. Doing the Math: Side to Side – 1” (the spacing between stones) + 2’ (stone’s width) + 1” + 2’ + 1” + 2’ + 1” = 6 feet, 4 inches for the inside dimension of my frame. Front to Back – 3’ (length of the stone) + 2” (1″ spacing at the front and back of the stones) = 3 foot, 2 inches.

Note: At this point, I didn’t quite know that I wouldn’t add a timber to the front edge (though one may have given things a cleaner look).

Adding the width of the timbers (again 3 ½”) to these dimensions, I then marked the back outside corners of the pad’s footprint with a spot of marking paint. Alternatively, I could have driven stakes into the ground and ran a string with a line level hung from it – also a point of reference for leveling the grade.

* Considering Grade || Preparing to Adjust the Grade

Our yard pitched steadily from the street to the rear of the yard. The location for my trash can pad was no exception to this. To install the trash can stand, I would have to cut, as it is called, the grade at the top side of the pad and build up the downhill side of the pad. When finished the top timber would sit roughly flush with the ground.

Because this was a small project, I started by simply setting the timber frame. A larger footprint probably would have started first with finalizing the grade.

* Using 4 x 4 Timbers to Build the Frame for my Trash Can Pad

Because there was roughly a 6” fall across my pad, top to bottom, I’d have to stack two timbers at the low side (as well as along the back). As you read on, remember I was working with various lengths of scrap pressure-treated 4 x 4, some rated for ground contact, others not.

Rather unceremoniously, I started by setting my uphill side timber first. Cut to around 45” in length (as determined in part by layout above), I simply scratched away enough soil, and pulled any roots that intersected , such that this timber would lay level.

I checked level both side to side and front to back with a two-foot level. Wiggling and twisting, I was mindful of keeping the frame square. When I was happy, I gave it a couple whacks with a maul to set it roughly in place.

Now, since I jumped into setting the timbers in this manner, it forced me to make an important decision rather quickly. How would I stack and/or stagger timbers? Meaning – how would I treat the frame’s corners and how would I fasten everything?

I could have cut timbers such that they lapped in a stagger. More advanced even, one might consider a half lap. But honestly, I didn’t see the point on such a low key project. Because of the change in stack, one timber in some places and two in others, I planned to simply butt all joints.

How I came to 45″ for the side timbers – 3′ 2″ from above plus 3 1/2″ + 3 1/2″. My side timbers would just span the width of the rear timber. And while accounted for, in the end, I left out the front timber.

* Setting Timbers with Landscape Spikes & Fastening

As I began to work my way around the frame, I checked square frequently. I measured both from my fence behind and employed a carpenter’s square at the inside corners of the frame.

For the first timber, I used a 10” Galvanized Landscape Spike. I did this with all timbers that contacted the ground. For the top timbers (where two were stacked), I transitioned to 12” spikes.

Because I was dealing in various materials I had in surplus, I did have to improvise in some spots. For example, on the bottom timber in the rear leg of the frame, I had to pair two short lengths of timbers, ganging them with a mending plate – to get my required span.

For spikes, I pre-drilled using a 3/8″ auger bit. While likely oversized for this project, I had 3/8″ spikes on hand. As I continued with laying out the entire frame, I checked level frequently running either a 4-foot or a 6-foot level from the back leg of the frame to the front edge of the side legs. Once I was happy with everything, I used 6” HeadLok structural fasteners to tie the side legs of the frame into the back. I pre-drilled and used my impact driver to set the fasteners (as pictured).

* Adjusting the Grade and Building Up the Substrate

With the frame assembled, I began to consider the substrate – what my bluestones would sit on. I did a quick formulation of how I’d build the substrate. With this, I also figured how much material I’d be adding under the stones.

Remember my bluestones were 1 ⅛” thick – but I wasn’t going to sit them just on soil. I knew I’d have to cut the grade down even further to accept about an inch of Crush N’ Run as well as a half inch of Builders Sand. (Math: 1 ⅛” + ½” + 1” = 2 ⅝”.)

Because I was dealing with that pitched slope, I would need to remove at least this much soil (2 5/8″) from the top side of my slope. Using a transfer shovel, I laid it near flat and I “cut” the grade.

Also with a wheelbarrow nearby, I laid some hardware cloth over it. I used this to screen the soil of rocks and roots. Unwanted rocks were dumped around a nearby maple, and were roots – deposited with other yard debris. I then poured out my filtered soil to build up the low side of the slope, compacting it with a hand tamper.

Once I had a depth of about 2 ¾” (from the top of the timbers), I quickly checked level. Then, using a combination square, I drew working lines, marking the inside of my timbers with each corresponding layer of my proposed build-up. From the top of the timber, I drew three lines on all three sides of the frame – one at 1 ⅛”, one at 1 ⅝” and one at 2 ⅝”. With each layer in my substrate, I would know exactly where to finish. (Ideally, all layers of the substrate are packed and leveled as they are installed.)

Editor’s Note: To read more about Transfer Shovels and other Types of Shovels, you could see our Guide to Shovels.

* Installing Landscape Fabric

In an effort to 1) Keep weeds down & 2) To provide isolation of my substrate from both tree roots and possible movement, I rolled out and cut landscape fabric in the footprint of my frame. Once cut, I tacked the barrier into place using landscaping staples. I pushed them in (setting them with my foot) around the perimeter. For insurance, I added a few staples also near the center of the cloth.

 Adding a Crush and Run Base

I had a little pile of 1/2″ Crush and Run left over from our patio project. Sometimes called crusher run or written as  either “crush N’ run” or “crush-N-run“, it would provide the perfect base for my bluestone. I had just enough on hand to give my 20 square foot pad about an inch base. (Alternatively, and if I didn’t have access to this surplus, I would have looked into paver base (crushed stone) at a local home center.)

I poured the stone in from my wheelbarrow, agitating and spreading it with my transfer shovel. Once poured,  I raked it out, bringing it roughly flush to the lowest marking I made earlier. Because I was only working with about an inch of base, I did this in a single pour. I again finished with hand tamping, checking level and making minor tweaks as needed.

*Laying Builders / Pavers Sand

You have probably seen this trick before – using scrap ½” pvc pipe, I laid down a grid on top of the paver base (as pictured). This would allow me to pour sand out, building up to that second working line (1 ⅝” down). Then using a scrap length of lumber, I screeded it out to perfect level. Then pulling these pipes, I filled the recesses left behind with handfuls of sand.

I used (2) 50-lb bags of play sand in my 3 x 6 trash can pad. With that, I was finally ready to lay my bluestones.

* Laying the Bluestone / Paver Stones

Laying the bluestones is probably the easiest part of the job. Starting at the back corner on the downhill side of the frame, I placed the back end of the first stone about ½” from both the back frame and also from the side. I then gently laid it down. I did the same with placing the other in the uphill corner.

Now, my third bluestone, the one I would place in the middle, was damaged. To clean up this damage, I used my angle grinder and a diamond cutting wheel to square off the stone.

This of course left me a gap, in the field, that I’d have to fill front to back. To make this up, I broke out my table saw. I then took a two-foot length of pressure treated 4 x 4 and tri-sected it – cutting slices from it to about 1 1/8″ thick. (These would then of course match the depth of bluestones.)

I treated my cut timber with wood preservative, I adjusted this center bluestone and simply laid in my pressure-treated wood just as I would any other paver.

Editor’s Note: To read more about using an angle grinder in masonry applications, you could see our article – Repointing Brick.

* Finishing Up :: Using Pea Stone to Pack Joints

To finish out the whole assembly, I poured out two bags of pea gravel. Using a push broom, and working diagonally across the bluestone, I worked the pea stone down into the joints between each stone.

At the front edge, I worked to create a kinda ramp. Building the stone on a slope, I used my transfer shovel again, this time to pack the gravel into place.

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Note: While I could have done this at nearly any point in the assembly,  I clipped the front end of the low side timber using my circular saw set at a 45. I felt this gave the pad a more finished look. (My apologies for no fully-completed project pic.)

* Summary

Again while not the most high impact job in and of itself, building a small pad certainly is a good practice project for those considering tackling larger paver projects.

For me, a pre-cursor for finally writing about our patio redo. (That project has been teased in many places on our site including: Installing In Patio Lighting & Installing a Post Lamp.) Many of the basic strategies, skills and techniques described in this article apply, but just on a different scale.

Thanks for reading, hopefully next – Building a Paver Patio. To wrap this up – a Pin Board of Trash Can Stands and Corrals, below. Cheers, Enjoy and I hope it helps. ~jb

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The post Building a Trash Can Pad :: Another Landscape Challenge Solved appeared first on Home Improvement | Remodeling | Home Repair || DIY & Pro :: Building Moxie.

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I have a confession. I am not the best painter in my family. (Must be my ADD, ADH … ADD.) While I did help paint a few of the rooms in this house, I left, and still do leave, most of that work to Mrs. Moxie, my wife – Jen.

She’s done all of the interior painting on her flips. And frankly – she’s nothing short of a real pro.

In other words, I’d like to think between us we know what we are doing when it comes to interior paint.

Now, for wallpaper (the topic of this article), that’s a totally different story. Apart from repairing it (as I’ve done as a punch out guy) and/or removing it (as we’ve both done a handful of times), neither of us really had any experience with hanging it.

Mrs. Moxie Removing Wallpaper from Kitchen Ceiling (2006)

So there we were; we needed a fairly quick, high impact fix for a troubled plaster wall in our bedroom. And here’s the story of what we did, as part of getting our old house ready to list.

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Briefly on Wallpaper :: History, Style & Types

* Wallpaper in History

Wallpaper was hung in English manors dating back to the 16th century. Since its heyday here in the US – in the early 1900s, it has gone in and out of favor. In the last decade, perhaps, there has been a slight resurgence. I have seen many designers choosing it as a means for adding embellishment to rooms.

Wallpapers comes in many different styles. We might simply categorize them by their pattern (or lack therefore). But wallpaper is also often grouped by how it is constructed. This includes what we’ll call their surface treatment – affecting both texture and durability, as well as how exactly they are hung.

You’ll see wallpaper in nearly any room of a house, but different papers work better in/for different rooms. For us (me & Mrs. Moxie), we would use a vinyl, unpasted wallpaper for our bedroom feature wall – and that’s important to remember as you make your way through this article.

* Wallpaper Types & Adhesion Methods

Wallpaper types include: Grasscloth, Embossed, Flocked, Metallic (or Foil), Paper (the original – often coated with an acrylic film), Vinyl and the most recent addition – Nonwoven. Broadly, this article does not include details about each type, rather it focuses solely on Vinyl. Vinyl (sometimes pre-pasted) is likely the most widely available, and probably also the easiest to hang.

While the surface treatments – the faces of these papers vary, so too do their backings. This is no more true than with the Vinyl wallcoverings. You’ll see Vinyl wallpaper with a fabric, paper, vinyl, or even a nonwoven backing.

With that, it’s important to note that adhesion methods also vary. Adhesion options include: a traditional, flour-based, wheat paste – mixed on-site. More popular, and DIY-friendly, are your premixed pastes. Clear paste is likely the most practical for obvious reasons. In most cases, the wallpaper you select will dictate how exactly it should be adhered. Refer to manufacturer specifications before choosing a specific adhesive.

As mentioned above, some papers come pre-pasted. The application for these papers differs greatly from other types of wallpaper. Peel and Stick options – in the form of giant decals and/or even full-on temporary vinyl papers, appeared in the 80s. These often require only minimal prep work in hanging. They are great in rooms (like a nursery or a child’s room) that might see varying looks across a few years.

Our Master Bedroom Bed Wall

As the time to list our then remodeled Victorian farmhouse approached, we knew we wanted to do something special with our master bedroom’s bed wall. While it did take some effort, I did ultimately talk Mrs. Moxie into doing that one wall in wallpaper.

As with most of my projects in this old house, I was up against some uncommon circumstances. Admittedly, though, those uncommon circumstances were in fact part of my motivation for looking into wallpaper to begin with.

Long time readers will recall that we created a kitchen passthrough by removing a portion of a center (load-bearing) wall. This gave the 1st floor more of that “open plan” feel. When we removed that wall, and as we set the new header, we did see a good bit of cracking in the plaster walls above.

Over the following few months, this cracking expanded – presumably as the structure continued to settle into the new header. I covered repairing some of that cracking in a video here – Repairing a Large Crack in Plaster.

* Cracking in Plaster Walls

The wall featured in that article shared framing with – well, our bed wall. As seen in the video, cracking (in our playroom) presented itself rather aggressively. On the bedroom-wall side, however, things were far more subtle. In the bedroom, the wall had developed a network of spider cracks. Some pre-existing, but many more made more pronounced with the removal of that kitchen wall.

For bedroom repair, and unlike the larger crack, I purchased a box of one-inch plaster washers, grabbed a spray bottle full of water, a tube of Alex Plus and had at it. My goal really was only to get everything screwed off (reattaching the plaster to the wood lath behind). My hope was I could avoid skim coating that soon to be wallpapered feature wall.

In almost all cases, it makes far more sense to repair plaster than it does to replace it. I have written about this topic specifically for The Home Depot’s Pro Referral Network here – How to Repair Plaster Walls. (For more on the primary reasons for retaining plaster, see my article, instead – The Best Way to Remove Plaster.)

To read more about what I did to repair the bed wall’s spider cracks, see the section Repairing Plaster Walls with Plaster Washers at the bottom of this article.

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 Selecting, Estimating and Purchasing Wallpaper

So we knew we wanted to do one wall in our master bedroom with wallpaper. This would effectively create what is known as a feature wall. But some questions remained:

• Where Do We Shop For Wallpaper?
• How Much Wallpaper Would We Need?
• & What Kind of Wallpaper Should We Use?

We had that one wall, the bed wall of the bedroom – the wall where the headboard lives. By rough measurements, that wall was just about 9 feet tall by 16 feet wide. There was one door, a closet door, at the far left side of it.

Mrs Moxie and I are both big fans of psychically touching things. Meaning – while many online retailers have popped up and many will ship samples or even rolls to you, we carted ourselves up to our local Sherwin-Williams (big fan). There we found a set of bookshelves and an extended display full of wallpaper samples. Nearby, a well lit table.

From the bedroom, we grabbed our bed spread and a curtain. In preparation for this adventure, we even painted a scrap piece of drywall with the bedroom wall color. While taking all three of these items certainly made matching easier, I won’t lie – it still took us several trips to a few of the Sherwin-Williams around town before we could really hone in on what we wanted.

In the end, the paper we selected – a Vinyl with a Fabric backing. And as you can see from pictures, it most definitely resembled a grasscloth. A green, blue and yellow paper with a subtle horizontal hatching. It worked exceptionally well with the spring scheme we had cultivated in our bedroom.

* Estimating Wallpaper

Once we had our wallpaper targeted, it was time to estimate and then purchase. Wallpaper like carpet or fabric is subject to dye lot. Because of this, and because there can be variances in color from lot to lot, it is important to get estimating and your initial purchase exactly right.

Many samples have specific information about such things as width and square footage per roll printed right on their backside. Other information includes the pattern’s match type (straight, random, none, etc.) as well as the length, size and distance of the given pattern’s repeat.

For estimating our job, and not to complicate matters here, I simply measured the wall and subtracted the size of that closet door opening. In the end, I determined I needed two rolls of our selected paper. But we would ultimately use only a roll and 3/8th for our feature wall.

For those that want and need a little more precision (especially important when using papers with more complex patterns), there are a number of wallpaper calculators online. (This one at Wallcoverings.org looks like a good one.)

These calculators often include something called yield factor, which allows you to easily calculate expected waste – based on the size of the pattern being used.

Paper size and coverage can vary greatly maker to maker. My wallpaper was 27” wide (though you’ll also commonly see papers 20 1/2″ wide). For the brave, there are double rolls available. In general, and double rolls withstanding, you should expect to see coverage from 50 to 75 square foot a roll. (For the curious, mine was marked at 65 sq foot.)

Through Sherwin-Williams, our wallpaper was a custom order received within three days. The cost for the wallpaper itself was right under $90.

How to Prep the Wall for Hanging Wallpaper?

Vinyl papers are fairly durable, but because of this, they are not necessarily so forgiving. Some imperfections in the wall below will show through.

As mentioned above, I was installing my wallpaper on a plaster wall. (Jump to information about preparing this plaster wall by clicking here.) Regardless of the type of surface, it needs to be as free imperfections as possible.

Those in older houses know that plaster walls have a tendency to undulate. For highly visible locations, it may be worthwhile to skim the wall before applying wallpaper. (Alternatively, and with more delicate types of papers, a wallpaper liner could be used behind.)

For the best possible application, it may make sense to remove trim from walls, hang the wallpaper and then return trim. We had the option, in our bedroom, to remove the rosettes from our colonial casing around the closet door. We did not. The cuts and pasting here, admittedly, was a little challenging and in the end, required a delicate hand.

Installing around trim often requires making a series of relief cuts, followed by precision trimming – which may be best left for the end of the job.

* Understanding Your Surface – Primers 

I repaired spider cracking in our plaster wall with plaster washers. I flash-patched those repairs with standard joint compound and sanded. What I didn’t mention of course was that this wall had also been painted previously. This created quite a mosaic across the surface, and in general, I knew I’d have to take special steps in preparation.

We applied Rx-35 PRO-999 – a wallpapering primer/sealer designed for painted surfaces. Allowing it to dry overnight, it both seals and “sizes” the wall prior to wallpaper installation.

What Does “Sizing” Mean in a Wallpaper Installation?

Good question. The internet once said:

Although this may sound like a measurement process, it actually refers to treating plaster walls with a product that allows the paper to stick better, but not so tightly that you can never remove it. Sizing is a compound of chemicals that acts as a buffer between the wallpaper backing and the plaster surface. It prevents the wall from absorbing all the adhesive’s moisture and slows down the adhesion process, which allows you time to get the paper placement just right. It also prevents the adhesive from permeating the wall surface, making it impossible to remove in the future without destroying the walls.

* Understanding Your Surface – Pastes

We choose to work with a pre-mixed paste. This link from Roman Decorating Products was very helpful in selecting the right paste (great resources in general on this site). Using it, I could determine we needed Roman’s PRO-880 Ultra Clear Strippable. (By its spec, its anticipated yield is 330 square feet under ideal conditions.)

In general, pre-mixed pastes are categorized by three elements: a) The type of surface you are adhering to – unfinished drywall, plaster, painted wall, etc. b) Level of adhesion and working time required – Extreme Tack, etc. & c) Its degree of removability – how easy or hard it would be to strip the installed wallpaper later.

Creating a Wallpaper Hanging Plan for a Feature Wall

We started by finding, well, a starting point. To do this, we cut our first strip of wallpaper and working together, we held it near the center of the wall.

Note: For more complex patterns, finding where to start is very important. You want to position the paper on the wall such that both seams and the pattern won’t make awkward intersections at the ceiling and/or at door and window trim. When hanging a whole room it may make sense to sketch out a layout plan. For a feature wall, you need to determine only where to start and a direction in which to work.

For me, and because I didn’t have to navigate corners, balancing my layout was easy enough. Further, because we just had that simple grasscloth pattern, we really didn’t have to move the paper up and down as much as we had to shift it side to side.

* Using Reference Lines

When it finally sat where it seemed to work, I marked each side of that first strip of wallpaper. I then used my tape measure creating hashmarks across the wall where each strip of paper should fall (27″ apart). These marks were used more as a visual reference to aid in layout, allowing me to check myself as I thought about moving across the wall.

When I was finally happy with what was planned, I used a 6-foot level to draw out working lines on either side of that first strip. Some would suggest marking off lines for each strip, or at minimum setting a reference line near vertical obstacles like doors. I stopped short of this. I mean – I knew each strip of wallpaper would butt edge to edge. Doing one final adjustment of my hashmarks at this point got me ready for hanging.

* Hiding an Awkward Seam

I knew for certain that I didn’t want a seam to fall right at my closet door trim. Also, as a rule of thumb you want to avoid a seams within six inches of an adjoining wall. Since our closet was at the far side of the wall, and because its door trim was butted conveniently to the adjacent wall, I was able to shift paper appropriately.

With little hassle, I’d be able to cut down the width of just one strip of paper. I worked in layout to plan for placing this seam above that closet doorway. The door trim itself was then fitted with an L-shaped strip of rough cut paper.

Working with Vinyl Wallpaper

* Cutting Wallpaper

When rough cutting wallpaper, I found that making cuts about four inches long worked pretty well. This gave us 2” extra both at the top and the bottom of the wallpaper. (I had a traditional 3-part built-up baseboard at the bottom of the wall, but no crown molding at the top.) Note: More complex patterns might require a larger over-cut.

While wallcovering tables can be rented (I’d recommend), we worked on a scrap piece of plywood (topped with builders paper) laid out on the floor of our adjoining playroom. A T-square worked just fine as we marked off cut lines on the back of the paper. We then used wallpapering scissors to make our rough cuts.

Tip: When working with a large repeating patterns, make cuts in the same location on the paper each time.

* Applying Adhesives for Un-Pasted Vinyl Wallpaper

Our pre-mixed adhesive was rolled on from a paint tray using a standard 1/4” nap paint roller. Paste does not have to be applied in a thick coat, as much as it has to be applied evenly. While paste brushes may be purchased, a 3″ paint brush seemed to work well for fine tuning. Paste the entire back side of your wallpaper including the edges.

Then employing a technique called booking, we folded the ends of the wallpaper over onto themselves. Booking, among other things, allows adhesive to “soak in.” During this time, too, the paper itself also relaxes its roll. Booking times and requirements vary by paper, so always check specs. Our wallpaper called for 10 minutes of booking before hanging.

Warning: Be cautious as not to create undue creasing when booking.

Hanging Vinyl Wallpapers

Working together, we positioned our first strip of paper tight to those working lines. With our hands palms flat and using our fingertips, we moved the sheet fractions of inch up and down, so that it was positioned perfectly. A smoothing brush then worked well at seating paper both that the top of the wall (reached with a step stool) and at the bottom.

Tip: Leave the bottom half of the paper booked as you work to align the paper at the top of the wall first.

Subsequent strips of paper are butted tight together. For the outlet locations in this wall (one electrical & one multi-media), and with both the power off and outlet covers removed, we simply measured from the previous strip and also up from the floor. We then hung the wallpaper right over them.

With a rough idea of where those outlets lived, we made appropriate cut-outs. To do this: a) Make an X-cut over the outlet’s box location, and then b) Cut away what is to be removed from its perimeter.

* Smoothing Hung Wallpaper

After hanging the paper, you want to remove any air pockets or bubbles from behind the paper. In a lot of cases, this also amounts to removing excess adhesive from the back of the wallpaper. Some recommend a smoothing brush here as well, but we chose to work instead with a plastic smoothing tool. A straight edge – kinda like one you might use for stripping paint from a furniture top.

Tip: Smooth from the center up, then from the center down. If at all possible, never pull the smoother to the sides – whether a strip has been butted to another or not.

Be firm here but not so firm that the paper shifts on the wall. Excessive adhesive squeezed from the paper can be removed with a damp sponge, dipped into a nearby bucket of clean water. While natural sponges have traditionally been used, I purchased a polyester sponge – it kinda resembled a grout sponge.

Trimming the Edges of Hung Wallpaper

Most will say wrap corners (intersections at ceiling, trim or adjoining walls) by an ⅛”. This means you will trim your paper such that your razor blade points away from and opposes the paper.

At the ceiling, for example, cut along the ceiling, not the wall! I found that holding the knife such that the handle bend back toward the papered wall worked best. At wall intersections, similarly, hold your knife again with the handle toward the field and cut away from it, pressing the paper tight to the corner. Use a broad knife for help with guiding your cuts (a 6” to 12” drywall knife work just fine here).

For our installation, I chose a 24” paint shield with the hope that I wouldn’t have to move my guide as frequently. But alas, I don’t know how effective this actually was because of waviness at the wall/ceiling intersection. Lesson Learned: I should have known most ceilings and walls are not perfectly square over their entire length. And this is never more true then with plastered surfaces in old houses.

Most will recommend a snap-off utility knife for trimming wallpaper. These work well both for your slim design as well as for their ease in keeping a super sharp edge. (To “renew” a blade, simply use a pair of Channellocks.) Renew the blade every third cut as to avoid snagging or tearing the wallpaper (and admittedly – I did have at least one minor slip up in my installation). Cut, slide the knife, and cut again. Don’t drag the knife and cut at the same time. While Mrs. Moxie used the smoothing tool at times as a guide, I do not think this is ideal.

Pro Tip: Minor cut errors can be hidden with a color-matched Sharpie.

Rolling Seams & Giving the Wallpaper a Final Wipe Down

As you finalize hanging, you have couple strips hung, roll your seams gently with a seam roller. Do not press so hard that you push out pastes. Start about 3″ from the seam itself, working your way toward the seam, and then finally roll the seam itself with only the lightest of pressure. Repeat seam rolling as needed throughout the job.

Wipe the entire surface of your wallpaper periodically with a damp sponge. This removes any excess adhesive that could have made its way onto the face of the paper. Note: Refresh your bucket of water frequently throughout the job.

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Summing Up

While vinyl wallpaper, as you can see, is easy enough to DIY, other papers (and/or an entire room) may prove more challenging. In fact, it may make sense to hire a pro. Pros often charge by the roll, and start usually in the range of $50 per.

The hardest part of this feature wall was probably picking the paper and the products. All aspects of this project work hand in hand. How you proceed will be dictated by a) What you are trying to achieve, b) The type of wall you are going over, & c) The state of your wall before you begin.

As mentioned, I was a newbie at wallpapering and I provide simply what I did. That said, I’d love to hear tips from those that have a little more experience. Please add a comment below if you have a good share.

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Repairing Plaster Walls with Plaster Washers

I wrote about repairing plaster for The Home Depot‘s Pro Referral Network, here: The Plaster Wall Repair Guide. Below I include some pictures from my project, plus some choice outtakes from that article – focused on using plaster washers.

Plaster repair fasteners appear in several unique forms, including both as staples or as capped nails. Plaster washers, however, are possibly the simplest, most straightforward option. While designs may vary based on maker, each measures around an inch in diameter and incorporates a subtle recess at its center, provided in this case to accept the head of a drywall screw.

* Plaster Washers are Installed as Follows

Using a drill-driver, a drywall screw is driven through the washer, through the plaster surface, and into the lath behind. Based on the dimensions common in plaster installations, 1 1/4″ – 2” fine-thread drywall screws are ideal for this operation.

When installing screws and washers, be mindful of misses–those efforts that fail in finding lath behind. If a miss is perceived, correct up or down (along the course of the crack) by about 3/4″ should guarantee success in re-securing the plaster to lath.

When successfully driven into place, the screw and washer combination should both draw the plaster back into plane, and also dimple downward to create an easily patchable surface. If your drill-driver has a clutch, it may be wise to back it down as not to risk damage from over-driven screws. If your drill-driver has a variable speed option, it is best to install washers with the drill set at a lower speed.

Install washers appropriately 1 ½” from the crack’s center. Once lath is successfully discovered, space washers on both sides alternating at maximum every six inches. For areas where you find the plaster to be particularly loose, you may choose to “pair” washers on either side of the crack in that location. For added insurance, you could pre-fill the crack with an adhesive water-soluble caulking. Plan to wipe down the surface with a wet sponge after washers are installed.

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* Other Important Notes about Plaster Washers; Making Adjustments

If you are consistently missing when setting your screws and washers, move to a longer screw, such as ones that are 1 ⅝” long (or longer). If you are having difficulty bringing both sides of a crack into plane, try setting a washer or two at the center of the crack. This will help keep your washer installation true by grabbing the surface on either side of the crack and setting them flush. While fine-thread screws will offer more holding power in antique lumber, a coarse-thread drywall screw may offer more grabbing ability.

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Thanks for reading. Hope it helps. ~jb

The post Hanging Wallpaper on a Feature Wall :: A Fix for a Cracked Plaster Wall appeared first on Home Improvement | Remodeling | Home Repair || DIY & Pro :: Building Moxie.

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This is one of those projects. Like so many with our whole house remodel. I started it shortly after we purchased the 1880s Farmhouse. When we initially painted the home’s wood siding, we first removed some 24 sets of Antique Wood Shutters.

My goal all along – refinish and rehang them.

(While I combed through my pics, I couldn’t find any from the initial step of removing these wood shutters. In fact, at the point of installation – last spring, I was actually in full punch-out mode, so detailed pictures are a little slim throughout. My apologies. I hope what I have speaks for itself.)

Long time readers first heard about this project in 2009. (I know!) The post – Removing Rust from Hardware. I also mentioned it briefly here (from the same series) – Removing Paint: Working with a Professional Refinisher. You see, after pulling those shutters, I took them (plus all saved shutter hardware) to have them dipped. (But more on that to come.)

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Removing & Labeling Exterior Wood Shutters

Removing window shutters is the simple reverse of hanging shutters. Shutters are swung near open and they are then lifted upwards. (I won’t digress, but great care was required with removing associated hardware – they were unfortunately poorly painted.)

When removing shutters, they should be labeled. For me, I noted there were two unique systems used previously. When I found these, I then drew out a very simple diagram in my little black notebook.

The hinged edge of each shutter 1) Had been stamped with a number 1-24. & 2) Also had a very spartan roman numeral scratched into them. Unlike the stamped number, the roman numerals appeared to identify only increments in size. A few sets of shutters had, say, a marking “III” carved into them. Further, there were corresponding markings located on a few of the window frames around the house.

* Lesson Learned with Labeling Shutters

Unfortunately, neither system was reliable. Too many duplicates, too many inaccuracies. (And I sure wish now I had a pic.) Ideally, I should have taken the time to transfer those standard numbers onto the corresponding casings, with a wood stamp punch set (pictured at right).

In the end, none of that really mattered anyway. Many of my shutters didn’t go back to their original locations. (More on this in the section about Hanging Wood Shutters.) While labeling in my case was somewhat futile, I was still thankful to have those stamped numbers. They proved very useful for keeping and making shutter pairs.

How to Refinish Exterior Wood Window Shutters

* How to Remove Paint from Wood Shutters

I have a good bit of experience stripping paint. I’ve used chemical strippers, mechanical means – including both heat guns as well as an infrared heater (File Under: waste of money). I’ve never planed, though I have sanded (but only when absolutely necessary) to remove paint.

Taking one look at a louvered shutter, I’m sorry – those options were all, just, well, out. Like the paint on the house’s Wood Siding, the paint on the shutters was pretty built-up, but also sadly, in pretty bad shape. It was pitted and peeling, and in general – failing.

Editor’s Note: Here is short video I made that helped me in some cases along the way, with prepping window casings – A Quick Fix for Pitted Paint. (I hope to do some re-work on it soon.)

I knew I needed to strip my shutters, but DIY? – no way. One or two maybe, and probably with a heat gun, but I had 24 sets of them. That’s 48 shutters in all – Umm. Cray-Cray?! No Way.

Working with Professional Refinishers

Enter Baltimore Finishing Works. This is where I had these shutters “dipped”.

In my last house (the one with the vinyl shutters on them), I had a door that failed a lead paint inspection. To remedy, I removed the door and took it to these guys to get it stripped. Such an easy process that I didn’t think twice doing it again, here, with these shutters.

What to Know about Professional Paint Stripping – i.e. Dipping.

Dipped? Dipped in what … Chocolate?!

There are a handful of products and processes that these pro refinishers use. My shutters received a bath in methylene chloride. Immediately after the paint was removed, they were transferred to a wash that removes any lead particles. To finish, they were then rinsed in a neutralizing agent.

* On discussing with Carpenter, Lenny, he credits the longevity of the shutters he worked with to the lead paint that encapsulated them. He said, “After 115 years, all the paint was intact. Likely they have been preserved by that old lead based paint.”  (Probably very true.)

When this part of the project was completed, all associated hardware was also stripped. All shutters, plus all hardware (I could deliver) rang to a total cost of $1003 – 10 years ago. Pretty friggin’ right on! Right?

Note on Cost: On checking today, Baltimore Finishing Works quotes around $100 a set of shutters, to a certain height. By my math, I gotta assume they also slipped me a bulk discount when I had it done.

Tip: These pros recommend sitting stripped items out in the sun immediately after stripping. This is done so that items can sufficiently dry before finishing.

* Lesson Learned on Storing Wood Shutters

In retrospect, I can say my timing here was poor. Again I do not regret having them professionally stripped, but rather when I had them professionally stripped. The process revealed beautiful fir shutters (I think), which ultimately sat stored for some eight years.

Further, shutters are ideally stored, like doors, flat. I was short on that space, however. They stood upright as they ran along an outside wall of my garage, awaiting their time. Less protected than they would have been if they were still painted.

* Restoring Shutter Hardware – Prep and Painting

As mentioned in the sister article, my hinges were simple two-part, pin-style hinges. These are separable and allow the shutters to be lifted off easily for maintenance and/or storage. Unfortunately and after years of, well, abuse, these hinges, too, were painted and repainted. (A sin really – but more on that rant in the series: My Own Personal Hell – Removing Paint from Hardware.)

As mentioned above, they too were sent off to the refinisher, and, in the end, they were also stored far too long. While there was little option with the shutters, stripping the hinges by hand was not totally inconceivable. Chemicals, a Heat Gun, a Scraper, Steel Wool were all effective for spot work. For a large batch of hardware like this, however, I’d suggest looking into the technique of removing paint in a crock pot.

When it came time for the project, though, and I pulled out the hinges. 1) I spot stripped with paint remover, sanding them and buffing them with steel wool. 2) I then treated my parted hinges with a rust remover. 3) And in some cases, I primed them also with rust reformer spray. 4) I finished them with cold galvanizing compound (working exceptionally well on bare metal) and 5) Lastly, I clear coated with an exterior-grade lacquer. (While I have heard that common “interior” shellac would work just as well as a clear coat.)

* Assembling Hinges

Various markings on the back of hinges, in three different, well, fonts – helped greatly with matching. Shutters hinges as you may find can come in both rights and lefts. While I wasn’t so lucky as to have the original locations marked, I sifted through my pile of hinge parts – aka “leaves”. The bottom “leaf” of each hinge pair was a “male” i.e. had a pin, the tops had a cupped recess.

Once painted, I placed all my lefts in a box of Lefts, and all my rights in a box of Rights. From there, male (pin-half or bottom) and females (top) were picked and matched – using the markings. In some cases, I took a drill driver and run a bit into the female’s hole to clear accumulated paint, debris and/or rust. As hinges were assembled, they each received a drop of 3-in-1 oil to ease operation. (Learn more about Home Maintenance Oils and Lubricants, here.)

I took a similar approach with the hold backs and other shutter hardware. Refinishing them in large batches in the basement over several weekends in the Winter. I placed a large piece of cardboard out on the floor, opened windows and doors, and just sprayed. (Follow directions on all products, especially as timing will be based on these recommendations.)

Of the hold back arms/stays, these too come in lefts and rights. Additionally, my stays came in varying lengths. Pulls came in different styles, and even the “locks”, which are mounted directly to the window sill, showed some variety. (But more on this below in the section – Installing Shutter Hardware.)

Painting Exterior Wood Shutters

Much like the exterior paint on my wood siding, the paint on my shutters was sadly peeling. Some shutters had damage on the louvers themselves. Top or bottom rails on some had completely deteriorated. For these reasons, discussions about finishing shutters sometimes include – capping them in copper. This works to protect the vulnerable top edge. (Spoiler: I didn’t get into this with this project.)

Because I was under a time crunch, I punted on repairs. While certainly repairable, I just didn’t have the time to get into these for listing the house. Instead I had to work more in sizes, my goal to get shutters back on the front-side elevations of the house and on the sides that were most visible from the street.

Tip: Like painting a paneled door, start with the panel (in this case the louvers), then move outward to the rails and stiles.

More on the Anatomy of these Shutters, in the sister article – here.

* Setting up a Paint Station

Grabbing the 2 mil plastic I utilized when stripping paint next to the chimney at the side porch, I set up a painting station at the back of the yard. I had screwed fur strips to the top edge of this plastic (and there is a good article on setting up plastic for dust/spray containment). I took this edge and flipped it just over the top of my fence.

Secured in four locations with old Quick Grip ratcheting bar clamps. At the bottom, I held the sheeting down with a couple of 2x6s and some cinder blocks. This set up allowed me to spray six shutters at at time (3 sets). Because I was targeting initially 12 windows, you can imagine this took me several weekends. Prime, Flip, Paint, Flip. At the end of any one weekend, I simply folded my plastic down – to set up again at the start of any new paint session.

* Painting Exterior Wood Shutters – Spraying the Shutters

One thing that has come to me through the years as a blog owner is paint sprayers. So I had my pick from low cost paint sprayers.

I used a  Wagner Paint Ready Sprayer to spray the shutters. (Spraying, too – a no-brainer.) This lightweight indoor/outdoor sprayer features:

• Hvlp spraying using air to force material from the spray head at the same time atomizing it into fine particles
• A patented adjustable I-Spray nozzle for either horizontal or vertical spray patterns
• Adjustable spray pattern from 1 in. to 10 in. based on your coverage needs.

Its adjustable nozzle was a huge win, transferring from the shutters’ horizontal pieces (rails and louvers) to its vertical pieces (stiles) was a snap.

* Priming First Gave Me a Sorta Show Coat

Because these shutters were stripped down to bare wood, I primed first with a Bare Wood Primer. If I had time – which I did not, I likely would have fine-sanded the shutters before I began painting. (Note: The process of removing paint with dipping often raises the grain of wood.) I sprayed the shutters, with little ceremony, just standing them up and leaning against that fence.

This primer acted in a way also as a “show coat” and especially at the top edge of rails, where marbling in the wood was present. I filled with caulk, tooling with a 2-inch putty knife.

As with the rest my exterior, I stuck with the Sherwin-Williams A100. The shutters would receive the olive green accent that I used on the Victorian corbels and the “gingerbread” found in the house’s gables. While not necessarily required with the sprayer, I thinned my paint anyway by about 5% with water. While I could have just sprayed and left the work, I felt that back brushing after spraying just turned out a better job. (Note also: I left painting the bottom edge of the shutter, in most cases, until after I hung them.)

With the sprayer, I did have problems getting into the hidden spaces between the louvers as they met the stiles. There was a specific procedure I then followed. Using a 2 1/2” sash brush, I started by applying paint at the edge of louvers where they met the stiles. I then brushed out the inside edge of the stiles and tipped off the face surfaces. I finished by finally brushing out the louvers.

It took me a couple gallons (around 2 gallons of paint) to finish my 12 sets of shutters.

* Final Prep – Matching Sets

When I installed I was quite opportunistic. I punted on any set that required any more than what caulk and paint could handle. This meant grabbing pairs of shutters that were in better shape and laying them out (around the house) strategically. Ultimately, I was overriding the labeling I mentioned earlier in this post – keying instead on window size.

I had some variance in the hinges and hold backs, and, at minimum, 3 types of shutters – slight differences in shutter construction appeared.  Some had thinner parts, some had a middle rail, etc.

Why the variance? Not sure, but I can only assume that perhaps shutters were added to the house over time and/or some had been replaced at some point – perhaps themselves due to damage, but still – a long time ago.

Another very time consuming aspect of my job, beyond just pairing the shutters was positioning them. I mean – figuring which window they’d go in. When installed, the wide rail of the shutter orients to the bottom. And Important! Louvers face downward when the shutters are closed.

Through the years, I did substantial work on to the trim on this house. This includes not only stripping and repainting, as well as replacing – removing, routing and reinstalling. Here I installed window cap flashing. Later, there were times even when I had to make repairs to this paint. I really don’t have time to cover here, but I  did ensure trim was thoroughly painted before I began the process of hanging.

* Installing Hinges on the Shutters

Hanging the shutters actually started on a makeshift workbench I set up on my patio. This was where I first installed all of my female hinge parts. In a lot of cases, and especially because I wasn’t able to keep hinges paired to shutters, setting the hinges started with first widening the mortise that was already on the shutter.

In most cases, this was more than just cutting out paint that sagged into the hinge mortise. More frequently it meant actually cutting away some material from the mortise – usually about an ⅛”. I worked on the downhill side of the hinge mainly, because I knew if I’d have to adjust the shutters’ fit later, it’d be easier for me to perform adjustments on the top of the shutter once it was hung.

Which Shutters are the Rights and Which Shutters are the Lefts?

Good question. For me, the Rights were the not the shutter hanging to the right when looking up. Rather, the right shutter was the shutter hung on the right when looking out from inside the windows. The Lefts on the left – from inside the house.

Lessons Learned from an Old House: Especially with anything to do with wood windows. As they were site-built/site-installed, there is always a minor dimensional variation window to window. And the impact on these shutters was no different in this regard.

* Setting the Pintles

To start, I set the pin-side (actually called the pintle) to the inside of a window casing. For me, mortises again were already in place. As with the shutters themselves, I had to expand them with a utility knife and a chisel. (One of the hardest tools to master. Here again is some video on working with a chisel – Installing a Strike Plate for a Door.) In most cases, I just had to cut sags of paint out from bottom of the mortises before I could attach the pintles. In other cases, I had to cut away a small section of replaced window trim.

Hardest part of this task was finding an appropriate screw to re-hang them with. While I had many of the slotted screws (that were cut out and unscrewed), I opted instead for stainless steel. I originally targeted #9s I found on the internet. But because the existing screw holes were, in some cases, blown out, I had to move up to a #10. For the other related hardware, I alternated between those #9s & #8. (For more on how screws are numbered, please see our Guide to Common Screws.)

Where holes did not appear, I pre-drilled and stuck in the #9. Both on the shutter, and on the casing, I used 2” long screws. As I hung them, I purposely left the center hole out – at least until I got the shutter initially fitted. I had to be very conscious, of course, that I was not over-driving screws – as this could send shutters out of plumb.

* Hanging the Shutters

In all cases, the shutters should swing freely and not bind. Those maladies are an indication that shutters are either out of plumb or your hinges are over-set. They should close tight and lap at their meeting rails (if present).

Adjustments in fine fit can be a made with a planer or a sander.

Adjustments in swing – typically at the hinge – well, there are many tricks and improvisations. (Perhaps there, another article in and of itself.)

While painting and hardware refinishing was done in a grouped manner, hanging was a very individualize process.

Setting the actual shutter, for me, required angling the shutter just short of open, and some patience. (I could see slight damage on much of the house’s head casings where shutters were hastily removed.)

1) Starting at the bottom, line the shutter-side leaf up over the bottom hinge’s pintle. 2) Then tilt the shutter upward. 3) When both shutter-side leafs are aligned with the pintles, simply let the shutter slide downward into place.

Once installed, check fit.  Inlaid shutters like these should contact at the top with the window stops. At the bottom – the window sill, when they are closed.

* Installing Shutter Hardware

This too was a mix and match process for me. I started but setting the stops/locks first in the sill. Then holding the shutter full open against the house, I sat the stay into the stop. This allowed me to then locate the stay’s base on the shutter’s bottom rail. Trying to stay as level as possible.

These stays/holdbacks had a three-hole configuration. I started with the single hole farthest from the opening. Marked, pre-drilled and then filed with a #8 x 1 1/4″ stainless screw. I then set one more screw, just enough to check operation. Later when I was happy with everything, I installed remaining screws.

These stays were kinda cool in that when the shutter is closed, they swing back and rest in the partnered pull – also mounted to the shutter’s bottom rail.

While set ups could include a rectangular or other surface-mount bolt latch, usually mounted toward the center of the shutters, my installation did not include these. I knew these shutters wouldn’t likely get closed much.

* This was however not true of Lenny‘s installation, see Part 2 of this article for his client’s plan.

Note: I admit today, I’m not quite certain if those pulls above are set in the proper orientation. I thought briefly about installing the hook side down, such as they would try to snag those center catches. While I have certainly seen similar, I’m not sure I’ve seen this exact pull in use elsewhere. Most likely – these pulls just weren’t meant to pair with those catches. And maybe I should have held them out. (Could be wrong – and I do welcome constructive input in the Comments section below.)

* Making Repairs & Final Adjustments in Fit

Needless to say, new shutters typically cost more than the time and materials it takes to restore the originals. However, with new shutters, this would have allowed me to be more exacting in fit. (Notes on measuring for shutters, maybe another day.) Further, I could have ordered them already primed, which could have saved me countless hours in prep.

With my shutters, I didn’t size them perfectly or fit them (with planing) in the time allowed. But each shutter set did in fact close.

As with any wood product, you can expect some age on the shutters. Rot or other minor imperfections can be addressed with Abatron – which I have written about several times.

Further, this looks like a decent article on how to fix minor and major damage on wood shutters.

* Lessons Learned with Restoring Exterior Wood Shutters

Yes, it is an absolute sin when you see only the street-side of the house dressed with shutters.

By window, though, I’ll admit – it likely took at least four hours for each. (That right there is a stopper for many.) While still available today in stock sizes, to replace these shutters, costs could have easily climbed over $500 each window. (And probably much more – each set would likely have required a custom fitting.)

Like many of the projects around this house, I completed only a portion what I actually hoped to. While I only finished with the face (and certain highly visible sides), I would have ideally wrapped the shutters all the way around the house. Repairing as I went.

In the end, I was only installed shutters on 10 total windows. While I had all the shutters that came off the house, they were consequently gifted to the new owners. Hopefully, they pick up the torch, and finish what I couldn’t. I did get the most important ones hung (for curb appeal), and hopefully, hopefully – they’ll have the moxie to finish the rest.

Thanks for Reading. ~jb

Next Post – Installing Wallpaper :: A Feature Wall that Also Hides Imperfections in Plaster.

The post Refinishing & Hanging Functional Exterior Wood Window Shutters appeared first on Home Improvement | Remodeling | Home Repair || DIY & Pro :: Building Moxie.

This is the second part of a two-part article on wood window shutters. The article started as a recap of the process I followed to refinish and (re-)hang antique operable wood window shutters (on my own house). As I researched, I found myself exploring also the history and architectural significance of wood shutters.

In this article, I’ll spend some time on not only those topics, but also on the various shutter styles. I’ll explore Installing New Wood Shutters, as well as alternatives – like fixed vinyl . Lastly, I’ll take a look at window shutters’ importance to Curb Appeal.

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Curb Appeal Dating Back Centuries

Builders add shutters today mostly as an exterior decoration. As a window dressing, if you will. These decorative shutters are an essential ingredient in a recipe for curb appeal. While available in a multitude of materials, vinyl is likely the most prevalent. (In most cases, less than $50 a pair.) They affix right to the home’s facade. I’ve installed them myself (pictured below).

They are actually super easy to install – a ladder (or two), a drill driver with a drill bit, a level, maybe some silicone, a hammer, and an afternoon. Voila!

While they often get their inspiration from their forefathers, they don’t come close to a classic coolness of a set of operable wood shutters, and all that sexy hardware.

* American Architectural History & a Little on Shutter Styles

Shutters have taken many forms throughout the American Architectural idiom. Styles include board and batten (see Lenny‘s), paneled (raised or recessed), plank, Craftsman, and more.

Some are inlaid like mine; others overlay like Lenny‘s. Functionally, we’ve also seen them fold or even slide. Today, though, two basic categories remain to battle it out – fixed and/or functional.

Featured in this article, my shutters – functional. And as you will see – louvered. (Note too, that louvered is, in fact, the style of the vinyl shutter installed above.)

* Some Love for the Louvered Shutter

By my research, the louvered shutter is spotted on the earliest colonial dwellings. (Let’s say – Spanish Colonial, late 1600s, and perhaps the first shutter style.) The louvered shutter was of course a mainstay with many architectural styles. They appear all the way and up through say the ’70s Ranch.

Question: Are all Louvered Shutters Plantation Shutters?

Answer: While plantation shutters are in fact often louvered, louvered shutters aren’t always plantation shutters. The distinction – plantation shutters feature movable louvers. This in itself makes them less ideal for exteriors, and especially in some areas. Plantation shutters are typically considered interior shutters.

Interesting Fact: The title of this next section – the phrase “shutter the windows” has a historical, social connotation that I will not cover here. (Google – if interested.)

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Shut(ter) the Window! (Practical Functionality)

Antique operable, exterior shutters have a stately and glorious past. They served numerous, super practical purposes. When closed, they:

• Control light (i.e. providing shade), without shutting out fresh air (especially – the louvered).
• Protect glass from breakage (and antique glass for one is delicate).
• Prevent water penetration at openings (Windows & Doors).
• Act as a primitive security feature – a first line of defense to intruders.
  • Others say they were even an early form of insulation.

The louvered shutter is likely the most uncompromisingly practical. Scooped slats angled at intervals, the gaps between both creating shade and encouraging cooling (the two hand in hand) in a period before, well, electricity. Think back, no electricity, of course, meant no AC. When closed, and unlike other shutter designs, the louvered shutter allowed for, even fostered, steady airflow.

The louvered shutter, too, came into being before the wide availability of the window screen. In the absence of window screens, this shutter style provided for peace of mind when opening windows. Lessening the fear of invasion of insects and/or the entry of other critters.

Bottom line: The louvered shutter provided cooling on hot and sticky summer days and nights. Louvers when closed were efficient, too, with shedding water downward. (See: Occasional seasonal downpours.)

* Louvered Shutter Roots

While it’s not surprising we trace the louvered’s roots to the south, i.e. Spanish Colonial in Florida (from above), but let’s stop short of the Caribbean. Bermuda Shutters, while also often louvered, more commonly hinge at the top. For me (living in Maryland), and for the sake of this article, think instead of paired shutters – like small french doors for your windows.

Restoring Louvered Wood Shutters

Now, all that said – and all the practical implications, and *everything* that makes the louvered exterior window shutter an understated work of brilliance, also makes them, well – a flat out b*tch to both remove paint from and also to repaint. (More on this in the sister article, linked back there.)

Bottom Line: The process of restoring a shutter would be quite similar for any style, but it is just a little more challenging when you are dealing with the louvered style.

Anatomy of the Window Shutter

It seems all exterior shutters can be distilled down to three styles. Board & Batten (Lenny‘s a fine example), Paneled and Louvered. You will see, however, more sophisticated versions that combine two styles. In my area, part panel/part louvered styles, often with ornamental, decorative cut-outs on top are common. There are, in fact, many variations, and a good bit of local “vernacular.”

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* Lenny‘s Coastal Cottage shutters are board & batten, but include a heart-shaped cut-out. (See below.)

* Lenny and the homeowner then took inspiration from these shutters, carrying their heart decoration to exterior doors.

Hearts appear first in an inlay on a nearby porch door.

And in the light used on this exterior door leading to the kitchen.

Both handcrafted, even handcarved, and custom from Lenny Addario – very cool.

Of his client, Lenny said, “They were absolutely adamant about the shutters being operable. They plan to close them during storms.” Located near the Connecticut Coast, that makes perfect sense.

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Beyond Board & Batten, though, the anatomy of the other two styles (louvered and paneled) is pretty similar.

Like doors, shutters have both a top and a bottom rail and two longer vertical stiles, one on each side. Some shutters will also at times include a middle rail. In the case of louvered shutters, louvers are set in oblong mortises cut into the inside edge of opposing stiles.

Decorative trim dresses some shutters, while mine had only a functional “meeting rail”. Perhaps site-installed, two L-shaped rabbet cuts – set in opposition of each other. On a set of shutters, these pair or lap when the shutters are, together, closed.

Like doors – they are constructed, then later “handed”.

Shutter Hardware is Sexy

In my project, I had hinges in various states of, well, oldness. The size 3”, as well as a letter – either L or R – was stamped into the back of each hinge part. While these were not numbered, as the shutters were, I was able to use their unique font and, ultimately, their fit to figure which ones could and should go together.

While I would love to tell you I had anything like the highly decorative ACME hinge, mine were more utilitarian – a simple lift-off type, pin-style hinge. The kinda hinge that on a wood framed house requires mortising, like a door hinge.

Editor’s Note: More on hinges in our Guide to Hinges. More on Mortising Hinges in the video – Hang an Interior Door Slab. (Another, I hope to rework soon.)

Shutter hinges come in much more sophisticated versions, combo styles and/or in ornamental, hand-hammered iron. L- or strap- styles which mount not to the inside of casing (like mine), but rather to the face of trim (like Lenny‘s). These are really the only option for overlaid shutters. Strap hinges also work well when there is no wood casing to fasten to as is sometimes the case with brick or stone construction. In almost all cases, your hinge will be easily separable. (More on that further down.)

For holding shutters open, you’ll most commonly see something known as a “shutter dog.” (Usually in the shape of an S.) In lieu of these pieces, some of shutters receive a hook and loop. The loop itself at times actually a staple. My hold backs, aka – stays sit in “catches” and seem to be a part of a local vernacular. (See my notes on this entire set-up in the sister article.)

* Lenny‘s installation, in contrast, included simple “bullets” inserting into catches as hold backs. From this page, and pictured below.

Installing New Wood Shutters

If my shutters hadn’t already been hung – i.e. had the hinges not been installed, the process of hanging them would have been far more complicated.

Do your research and select an architecturally appropriate style of both shutter and coordinating hardware. Measure each to fit.

Establish Hinge Position on Shutters. In an effort to be exacting, shutters should be set in each opening. If trimming is required, it’s typically done with a circular saw or a power planer. Given the weight and the height of a standard window shutter, two hinges should do. Setting the lower hinge first. Its lower edge is located just above the (wider) bottom rail (between 6″ and 12″ from the bottom of the shutter) – in the case of paneled or louvered shutters.

Taking a measurement here, you’ll then also utilize this distance at the top of the shutter. Any mortises are made with an adjustable hinge mortising jig and a mortising router bit. Hinges should be mortised to the exact depth of the hinge’s leaf thickness. Make sure to keep the shutter oriented correctly throughout this process.

Note: Lenny’s hinges are set at exactly 7 1/4″ from both the top and bottom – a common hinge placement location.

Paint the Shutters. As described in the associated article. If finishing more than a few sets, plan to spray. Use only high quality exterior paints and stains. Optionally cap with copper or aluminum.

Install Hinges on the Shutters. (Also discussed the associated article.) Use stainless steel fasteners. Pre-drill with a bit that is slightly smaller than the selected screw or lag / bolt thickness, and to a depth of approximately 3/4rds of its length. Tip: Use a piece of electrical tape or other gauge to set pre-drilling depth.

Check Plumb on Casings & Locate Hinges. Check plumb on window casings. Using wood shims create an ⅛” spacing at the shutters’ perimeter. (Make further adjustments, if needed, now.) Enlist the help of a helper to hold the shutters in place, in the closed position. Mark the hinge locations off. Mark at both the bottom and the top of what Lenny calls the hinge’s “knuckle”. Be precise.

Mortise for and otherwise Set Pintle Locations. If only installing a few shutters, mortising can be by hand, using a utility knife and a wood chisel. If you are doing a whole house of windows, consider employing a method similar to that used on the shutters themselves. Note: Be cautious if working with a router at any height above the ground.

Separate the Hinges & Install the Pintles. Again discussed here. Make adjustments for plumb by either undercutting mortising, or by padding out with playing cards or the like.

Hang the Shutters. Also detailed in the associated article.

Install Shutter Hardware. Install pulls, hold backs and locking hardware according to manufacturer instructions. Use common sense. Here in the associated article.

Check Operation and Adjust Fit as Needed. 

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Ironically – My house now (a Dutch Colonial) is void of shutters, though the pintles are present on the second story windows. Original plans below show paneled shutters. (It’s been added to the todo.)

More Moxie (Helpful Links)

Sources for Shutters? Sources for Shutter Hardware? and Just Generally Cool Sites

• Measuring Shutters – Colonial Shutter Works
• Movable and Other Shutters – Larson Shutter
• Shutter Fasteners – House of Antique Hardware
• Shutter Hardware – Hardware Resource
• Lenny’s pick for Shutter Hardware – Acorn Manufacturing
• Stays and Bolts – Decorative Shutters

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For more from this home improvement series, What to Know About, please click thru. My thanks out to Lenny Addario for his insight and willingness to share. You’ll find him as Reputation Builders located in Milford, Connecticut.

Cheers and thanks for reading. ~jb

The post What to Know About Exterior Functional Wood Window Shutters :: History, Styles & Curb Appeal appeared first on Home Improvement | Remodeling | Home Repair || DIY & Pro :: Building Moxie.