This is a sponsored post: I am being compensated with a TV mount similar to the one I will be giving away at the bottom of this post.

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You may remember we have discussed hanging flat screen TVs a few times on this site: How to Plan for (the Extras in Remodeling), Tips for Hanging, and  I’ve even had a little fun with it … Justin Bieber stopped by to help me hang mine – The Hardest Part of Do It Yourself is, well. Doing It Yourself.

But a little more seriously, I thought this was a very interesting story line. SANUS (the leading designer and manufacturer of flat panel TV wall mounts) and Safe Kids Worldwide recently launched a TV safety initiative.  Why?

According to Safe Kids Worldwide, a 2011 US Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) report on flat panel TV safety revealed:

• A child is killed every three weeks from an unsecured TV. This has resulted in 215 fatalities between 2000 and 2011.
• Every 45 minutes a child visits an emergency room due to a TV tip-over related injury, a large portion of the 17,000 people treated each year.
• Reported cases have increased almost 25% from 2006 to 2010, and over the last 10 years – injuries have increased by 31%.

For many Americans, a flat panel TV is a great way to enjoy family time and entertainment.  However, most parents are unaware of the safety risks that flat panel TVs pose for kids.  Due to increasing size and new ultra thin designs, today’s flat panel TVs can easily tip over when bumped or pulled, toppling off of furniture and causing injury or even death.

Because of this, SANUS and Safe Kids Worldwide suggest that mounting a flat screen TV should actually become part of any child proofing plan.

- Much of this is highlighted in the SANUS TV safety video below:

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SANUS wall mounts are available in tilting, full motion or fixed styles at Walmart stores nationwide.

Giveaway :: SANUS TV Vuepoint Mount F180

Courtesy of SANUS, we are pleased to have the opportunity to give away a Vuepoint Mount F180. Simply enter in the widget below. A winner can pick the size that fits their TV and will be randomly selected on July 21st.

a Rafflecopter giveaway

Luck. ~jb

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Water we know is essential for living.  Ironic, perhaps, that water too is especially powerful.  In terms of the home, it can wreak havoc (in the form of rot and/or as a catalyst for mold) if left to do so.  Because of this, it is important to keep water where it needs to be, i.e. within pipes or … in terms of the exterior, out and away from the house … especially at the foundation.

One simple way we manage water on the exterior of a home is by controlling the rain water that may shed from the home’s roof.  We do this by employing a gutter system or . . . if you’re in Canada, and as Mike Holmes might have it … with eavestroughing.

Now, this story is a long and twisty one for me.  When we purchased the under-loved and left-for-ruin 19^th century farmhouse, the gutters, and the downspouts, on the home were pretty well rotted out.  Steel, perhaps galvanized, had rusted and corroded over time.  They were half-round and many of the lengths of downspout were what you would call corrugated round.  I fell in love with them instantly.

Our painter at the time removed the downspouts while giving this house its first, rather temporary, re-coating.  Still, I was dead set on re-doing them (in new half-round), but first I would have to get Mrs. Moxie to agree.

Half Round vs K Style

Essentially there are two types of gutters you’ll find in residential installations today, half-round and the more common k-style. Each takes its name, likely, from their cross section shape.  K-style, in many cases, is easier to install and consequently is typically a lot cheaper.  Half-round on the other hand surely pre-dates k-style and is often considered a little more historic.

K Style

Half Round

Mrs. Moxie, with her always practical real estate sense, had maintained from the beginning, “Nobody even looks at the gutters. … K-Style!”  I couldn’t help but disagree, and it was just like that that our home sat without downspouts for the good part of six years.

K-style gutters are both generally believed to do a better job with catching and shedding rain water, and they can be seen as being a little more maintenance free.  This is essentially true since “gutter guards” are more widely available for k-style, and also because k-style is often more easily found in a seamless option.

“What is seamless?” “Why does that matter?”

Basically, an aluminum roll “coil stock” is run through a specialty gutter machine allowing for custom runs of gutters where no seams (read: points for failure) are present across a gutter’s length. Pretty important. For more information on half round vs. k style, maybe this article from doityourself.com.

- More Long and Short of My Backstory

When I looked initially I had no luck finding seamless half-round gutters. Over the course of a few years I did still have several companies out to give me estimates.  In this group, one largish exterior company in my region … their quote $9k – not copper, but for aluminum.  And this is probably a good point to mention that gutters are available in several different material choices.  I was looking for white aluminum.

As I mentioned in this Google Hangout, I ultimately settled on the guy who did the gutters on Mrs. Moxie’s first flip project.  But without going too deeply into it, it ended up being a horrible mess. He really was over-matched and I had to undo much of the work that he started.  Up-siding though, I was fortunate he actually turned me onto my supplier for this job, Seamless Gutter Supply - their slogan: We Deliver … You Install.

Laying Out, Measuring and Ordering 

After a little bit of research, years actually – I discovered that Seamless Gutter Supply (above) had the ability to run seamless 6” half-round gutter.  I chose a low gloss white aluminum, a #30 (Eggshell) as they call it. With the steep pitch of my roof, and taking into consideration the total roof area, I had already been advised that 6” was in fact the way for me to go.  (Half-round, as well as k-style, are also available in a smaller 5” option.)

The half-round gutter itself came in about 70 cents more a linear foot than k-style.  And with about 115 linear foot to do, that added only about $80 to my total cost.

As a general rule of thumb, at least as I understand it, you want your gutter to extend around a ½ inch passed the edge of your roof.  When working with gutters too, I have always used a ¼” fall over a ten-foot run rule.  I was fortunate really in that I had the layout and lengths of gutter for most of the sections I needed (as they were still hung on the house).  Many of these ran long of that ½” + ½” rule, but with the angle and depth of some of the roof lines, I decided to stay to true to these original measurements.  I actually even ordered some a few inches longer, knowing that I could cut them on site just prior to installation.

I had lost my longest length of gutter in a snow storm in 2010, so … there, I did need to measure. For my order, I found that SGS was more than helpful. As advised, I measured from the edge of the shingles at one end to the other shingle edge and added an inch (½” + ½”). I was told that I did not need to account for the fall when measuring, and in fact – the gentlemen I spoke with actually discounted the ¼ inch over ten rule.  He said instead: “Ahhh, something like an 1/8” every ten foot would work.”  I would use his advice later.

One of my favorite things about working with SGS was the ease of which I could spec my job just from their website.  Much of the hardware I needed, included both specification sheets and installations instructions right there.  For half-round, and in most cases, you’ll be using an outside bracket to hang the gutters.  And this is where a good part of the cost of a half-round job mounts – with the hardware.

For example – a simple pre-assembled #10 hanger (used with flat fascia) is currently going for $6.39. My angled fascia, which is mounted directly to rafter ends, required a built-up with a bracket, extension and gem circle (as they call them) to overcome the offset.  By comparison, hidden hangers or spikes for k-style start at around only 50 cents a pop.  SGS recommends a 2-foot spacing for gutter brackets on half-round, and though in some cases I stretched that space, I ordered accordingly.

I also needed outlets (this is the bit that the downspout attaches to): one each for each gutter run. End caps: two each for each gutter. Plus downspouting, and including elbows (I choose a corrugated round like the original downspouts), and I chose to mount them using a traditional rack and key method.  I ordered plenty of zip screws in lengths ranging from ¾” all the way up to 3 inch.  And you see how it adds up fast.  Sealant, Rivets, etc. … too.

To ensure I was purchasing the correct hardware I bought samples first for a number of the hangers in a variety of configurations and got up on the house and checked what would work.

Site Considerations and Prepping for Installing Half Round Gutters

To start, existing gutters were removed … and recycled.  These gutters were often mounted with a device called a strap hanger;  these are installed prior to the laying of the roof.  In a dance of delicate surgery, I cut out the aged metal straps using a sawzall fitted with a 12” metal bade.  Once removed, I tucked a caulking-type backer rod up under the shingles to limit any possibility of water splashing back and making its way up under roof shingles.  (Maybe it adds a wee-bit of insulation too, plus it was just neater.)

While I did replace three sections of fascia board, as to ensure I had a sturdy surface to mount gutters to, I wasn’t so committed (and as this house is not our be-all), in most cases – I prepped fascia with painting only.  For painting, and since I was dealing with paint that was advancing in age, I cleaned with a TSP Substitute and primed with Peel Bond. (I’d recommend this high-build primer for a lot of projects).

Ironic I think that the roof on the home’s addition is slate, while the original structure had its roof converted to asphalt shingle some years ago.  I bring this up because whereas the bracketing for the original gutters was installed up under the roofing (using straps), I wasn’t about to play around with that slate roof.

Instead of mounting hardware underneath the roofing, I chose the path of least resistance, installing bracketing to fascia.  The problem in all of this … well,  as a rule the thumb I have always gone using the thinking that a roof should extent appropriately a 1/3 of the way into a gutter. That is, it should meet a point at about 1/3 of the way across the gutter’s width.  However, with the way these slate shingles were set, and even factoring in the depth of my hangers, I just wasn’t getting anywhere near that kind of set up.  So, I had to build the fascia up at my slate roof.  I did this by installing 1x stock … meaning I built –up (built-out) in one place about 2 ¼”, three additional pieces of 1x total – glued and nailed and then lag bolted to rafter ends.

In all locations where gutter existed previously, I had leaders buried at downspout locations.  These leaders take the water from the roof and carry it away from the house.  For me these leaders consisted of a buried three-inch clay pipe.  (One of which I repaired some time ago.)  Another had a damaged bell, which I repaired using anchor bolt epoxy.  While I tested all using a garden hose, I have since discovered that one is dumping water into my basement and must be damaged. Another underneath our patio is leaking but will be addressed when we do the patio and adjoining walks, hopefully this summer.

This is pretty much the backstory with my gutter install, hopefully back later in the week to give you “How to Install Half Round Gutters.”  Wish me luck and thanks for reading. ~jb

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By Michael H. Yost for The Workbench Life

Welcome, Cave Dwellers, to the world of the Man Cave! You are about to embark on a prehistoric journey from the darkness and dampness of the earliest cave to the more modern — but not necessarily any more glamorous — Man Cave.

So let’s start with the most obvious question: What is a Man Cave? The dictionary defines it as “a room or space (as in a basement) designed according to the taste of the man of the house, to be used as his personal area for hobbies and leisure activities.” Simply put, a Man Cave is a place where a man can be a man!

Do we really need a Man Cave? Most people would say no. But in truth, having a place where you can go and “recharge” is very healthy for any relationship. From my experience, most men who own a Man Cave are usually married. Single guys will tell you their whole house is a Man Cave. But that doesn’t really fall within the definition of the term.

So, what makes a Man Cave a sacred place for men? Well, to be honest, it doesn’t take too much. Men are very simple creatures — it doesn’t take much to make us happy. Give us a recliner and that old TV (you know the one) in the basement or separate room of the house and we’re content. Most Man Caves start out very small and continue to grow as space allows. Man Caves are never completed; they are always a work in progress. That is what makes having a Man Cave so much fun.

Now to dispel one of the most common myths associated with Man Caves: “Women are not allowed.” This statement could not be further from the truth. Women are allowed (although some insist it’s by invitation only); they just do not have decorating authority. After all, the Cave’s primary purpose is to provide a place for the guy and his friends to socialize and unwind, free of female influence.

To my mind, there is no such thing as a bad Man Cave. The decor is a true reflection of the owner’s personality. Walk into any guy’s self proclaimed cave and you can read him like a book. A sample of every aspect of his life or interests can be found tucked away in the darkest recesses of his dwelling.

It doesn’t take much money or space to get the ball rolling. Just start out small and let the power of the Man Cave community be your guide.

Build it and enjoy it! Cave On!

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Like this article? Get more by following us @WorkbenchLife or friending us on Facebook at The Workbench Life.

Michael H. Yost is co-author of The Man Cave Book and founder of ManCaveSite.org. Michael is also a frequent contributor to The Workbench Life.

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You may or may not have noticed that BMoxie has been a bit quiet.  And through the years, we have been known for taking these kinds of occasional hiatuses … hiatusi ? … anyway.  I really didn’t do much – some webmastering type stuff that was building up.  That coupled with new dedication and a busy schedule on the home front, with real life stuffs, I just haven’t had the time to compose much, let alone – post.  I guess in a way it marks a change in some of the fundamental philosophies around here (and maybe you have heard it before).

First, we don’t have to post so much – sure I love being that daily-ish “do-together” type blog, but Barry has been knee deep in growing his business and I have been, well … I already told you.  Barry, if you were wondering, has been using WordPress to build his business’s website and has gotten into the habit of posting daily, pics from his current projects.  To see what he’s been into, check him out at jcthome.com.  (I recommend this week’s work as Barry and some partners are working to raise a house.)

Second – and as far as guests, I made the decision to clamp down on many of the rogue and random submissions we were getting.  I mean – I know I was a little loose there … for a while and yes, while some of these submissions do … do surprisingly well on our site, I just couldn’t keep up with the minimum amount of vetting that I feel is required for this site.

*breath*

For me, you could be delivering a Pulitzer Prize winning piece, but if I, as editor, can’t determine that you are a real person using a real name, with real world actual experience in the field you are writing about, then, well – we don’t need it.  Building Moxie was never meant to be a place where SEO strategists and web-based freelance writers could tout their wares (read: stuff their links).  Maybe I’ll change my mind at some point on this, but for now – our Guest Room is for real people with real challenges or real successes, and/or for real working people that have expertise they want to share.

I have also been scheming some changes in design, though I haven’t quite pulled the trigger on those yet.

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It’s always hard for me getting back in the groove after taking a break like this.  And I really have been trying to avoid that meta-post (yes, like this one), but … idk – I feel this time I need it to get ramped up and going again.

I have been keeping up with posting to Facebook and I’m happy to report that our followers have climbed up over 1000, a little thanks to Amy Latta on that – @ One Artsy Mama (go figure). If you already follow (or if you don’t, I’d love if you did), you know a big project I have coming up … soon, is painting (actually repainting) a full-sized inside basketball court at a local day care/church.  It’s actually for/with my girls’ athletic association, and I have been spending a little time and actually doing quite a bit of research on things like tennis court paint.  I have to give a mad shout to Frog Tape here for agreeing to donate tape for the lines. … Thank you.  A post on this hopefully … eventually.

Beyond that, spring has been crazy in that – this past weekend was the first weekend I worked on my house in about three weeks. I was about to encounter withdrawal symptoms I swear, and especially as we are progressing towards a final final (for us) todo list on this house.

I finally had the chance to try out the new Total Control Wheelbarrow that Ames/True Temper sent my way.  Mulching, seeding, light hardscaping and such.  With its unique handles, it’s hard not to make the comparison to a giant pair of scissors, but I did find it had a good bucket size and was quite maneuverable.  (An obvious tradeoff for superior maneuverability, it may perhaps sit a little lower to the ground than I think I’d prefer.)

Available in both Steel and Poly. Check it out. Another thanks.

“Really, Come On! – “Crazy” … really?” So crazy that I was pushing hard trying to schedule that basketball court for this Sunday. And … I was starting to get a little irritated that I couldn’t round up guys from the Father’s Club @ my daughters’ school – the labor pool. Well … *facepalm* Oh… Father’s Day! ha!

I’ve heard my girls’ whisper, so surely they have some surprise up their sleeves.  For me, though, and I think they know – my ideal Father’s Day is sharing a little time with them, and yep, then getting a little work done around the house.  Put the two together – maybe one day … heaven.

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Thinking about July

I will say that with 4^th of July steadily approaching, and considering there is probably no more American month than July, I have been considering making a pledge to buy only American for that month.  I am in no way against the idea of a global economy, but given the chance I usually pick something Made in the USA.

On suggesting this to some folks, I have heard that it cannot be done … and maybe they are right. So that said, it may be more of a research experiment.  Wish me luck or let me know if you want to join. Hope to post on it at least once in July.

Speaking of July … I do have a special trip on the slate and I am hoping for some higher(ish) profile type guest posts elsewhere.

Also in July, on July 1st specifically, Google Reader will shut its doors.  I want to thank Sarah @ Ugly Duckling House for keeping it at the bottom of her email feed, reminding me I should mention it too.  So if follow BMoxie, or any quality blog for that matter, via RSS, I’ll recommend Feedly for a fast and seamless replacement. It’s the one I chose.

That’s pretty much all I have for this post, back with some home-related type posting things soon, I think.  Happy Father’s Day all. ~jb

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A Look at What’s New with John Deere Lawn Equipment

So when I left off I was you telling about my visit to John Deere‘s Horicon Works.  I was a fortunate member of the media entourage that journeyed recently to Wisconsin to see just what’s doing with John Deere … now, celebrating 50 years in lawn equipment.

Our visit was broken into two parts.  First, we had a look at their manufacturing processes and later, we took some of the equipment made here for test drives. (For comparison, we also had the opportunity to spin around on equipment from leading rivals.)

John Deere’s Testing Facility :: Wisconsin

We headed out to the 400+ acre Swan Road Test site (a short bus ride from Horicon Works and a location the team from Deere also referred to as “the Farm”).  Here, tractors, utility vehicles and implements are field and performance tested.  Products are run through and graded on Blading, Mowing, Moving, Tilling, Plowing, Snow Blowing, and Brooming … among other things.  Consumer pattern data – the rights and the lefts made in the course of cutting a lawn, is also utilized.

The equipment is exposed to varying conditions.  They are run through Bump Tracks, Brake Ramps, Twist Ditches, up and down hillsides and over curb fixtures.  (I got an albeit quick look at the back side of the facility here … from the front seat of a fast-moving Gator prototype.)

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At Swan Road, six full-time mechanics and up to 60 drivers at a time “eat, breathe and live turf.”  Ryes, Fescues, Bluegrasses as well as European Grasses are grown in test plots here and are later mowed down.

Data gathered is used for tweaks in deck design – a clear focus in much of what Deere does. The goal – cut more grass, faster, without compromising cut quality.  The highest cut quality, as Deere defines it, is a carpet-like result with zero visual defects.

It was at this site that I asked almost playfully, “When is Deere coming out with a self-sharpening lawn mower blade?”  Cut Quality Engineer Brian Pearson answered pretty plainly, “We just haven’t found a design yet that is worthy of the Deere name.”

Swan Road is one of five test locations throughout the country, including sites in both Florida and North Carolina, where focus shifts to southern grasses.

Product Walkarounds and Ride & Drive

I’ll admit it, I have spent very little time on lawn tractors, so … much of what I saw that day was new.  And my intro, much like what I think most individuals would go through, started with the “mass channel” D100 Series.  This is Deere’s entry level riding mower and I will call it that – a riding mower, because these do not offer the capacity (for tooling) that the tractors in the X300 and X500 Series do. Unlike most Deere lawn equipment, these mowers are made not here in Wisconsin, but rather in Deere’s Greeneville, TN facility.

While these mowers could be considered entry level, many of the features that we saw throughout each line are introduced.  Features like wash-out inlets, gas gauges, ¼” deck adjustments, as well as the RIO (Reverse Implement Option) safety control can be found on the D100 Series. Even here, all Deere decks come prepped to facilitate bagging, mulching or side discharge.

As we moved into the X300 Series Lawn Tractor, features like 4-wheel steer, power steer, ExactAdjust and hydraulic lift begin to appear (though sometimes only on select models).  With the x500 Series Garden Tractor, we see a wider range of implements accepted, the introduction of such features as traction assist as well as beefer warranties.

We continued this way all the way up through the X700 Signature Series.  Several of these tractors offer diesel engines and some even offer 4-wheel drive.  The biggest “wow” in this line – the revolutionary new 54” and 60” drive-on/drive off decks with an optional AutoConnect feature.

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The prize jewel of this group, the X758, held the spotlight several times.  It was frequently referred to as “The Ultimate Lawn Machine” and a quick ride on it was enough to explain why.  (I mean – Noooo *ahem* I didn’t think about making a break for it ….)

Real zen, though, may have been found in the X739, with 4WD, 4-wheel steer, plus cruise control.  That … or in the sheer cutting power and maneuverability of the Z’s (as they were called) – EZTrak zero-turn mowers.

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While these machines are, without a doubt … durable and well-designed, and especially in comparison to some of the competitors’ offerings, I couldn’t help but walk away thinking, simply – “Damn, a Deere sure is fun to drive.”

We were told that consumers consider three factors when shopping for mowers:  Horse Power, Speed/Width and Price.  And yes, a John Deere can compete on any of these points.  It seems, however, what really sets them apart is the noteworthy attention to feel. How does it feel to a new operator? What is the learning curve; how easy is it?  They even ask … how much could you do blind? All these factors are considered, designed for and tested … the goal: to produce one sweet lawn cutting experience.

As Handy editor Dan Cary (in the video and photos above) aptly summed it up, “Cutting the lawn”, he said, “may be the only quality alone time us dads get all week.”

- To find out more about John Deere test drives, I’d recommend visiting a local dealer. For special offers, see their Green Tag Sales Event going on now.  Thanks. ~jb

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A partnered post with Pennington Seed.

If you’ve read my post on my visit to Oregon and the NexGen Research Center, you know, then, just how important conserving water is these days. And … if you’re a red-blooded American homeowner – you probably want a lush, green and good looking lawn.  Now, here’s the thing – To grow that healthy lawn and further to grow the grass that lives in and makes up your lawn – your grass needs, well, water – just like any other plant.  I’d say a lot in the beginning, but still good amounts as it matures.

Pennington Seed, who maintains NexGen, puts an amazing amount of effort into developing seed that can grow greener and live longer on less water. Take for example their newest Smart Seed – it is said to stay green up to three weeks without water, and requires up to 30 percent less water year after year.  A result of course of their efforts at NexGen.

This, Smart Seed, is exactly the seed I selected to hit a shallow slope next to my house.  (Well, to disclose fully – I was compensated for this project, and the cost of my seed was covered).

The two problems I’ve had with growing grass in this particular area … one, an abundant amount of shade (this area likely only gets about 2 to 3 hours of sun a day) and well, two . . . it had been under attach with water runoff for a handful of years.

The area immediately above it was void of vegetation (because it sits under a large and shady decorative maple).  Anyone that knows anything about erosion, grade stabilization and runoff – knows, well – this is bad.  Last summer, though, I took it upon myself to plant under this tree.  And while it really hasn’t filled in quite as much as I would have hoped, the Vinca I planted is doing … okay.

That … and right up next to the porch in this area … I had a gutter, but no downspout, dumping water right down onto this slope as well.  I have since installed a new gutter, a downspout and a bonus 60 gallon rain barrel here … (I hope to post on this install soon). This rain barrel will come in handy as I need to water my-soon-to-be new little seed babies. (I posted to HomeTalk earlier in the week about it, installing a manufactured rain harvesting barrel.)

Water and Your Lawn

Beyond simple tips like watering in the morning or at night, planning around wind, as well as broom cleaning, there are many things we can do to help reduce water usage when watering the lawn. Some of which Pennington has provided me.

• Pennington suggests installing water-saving systems.  Besides adding a rain barrel for harvesting and using rain water in your landscape, consider using a drip irrigation system around trees and shrubs in your landscape. Drip irrigation systems apply water only when needed, minimizing water loss due to evaporation – which in turn prevents moisture from reaching needed spaces between plants. (For tips with preparing to install irrigation, see How to Prepare to Insall an Irrigation System.)
• Make sure sprinklers are watering the lawn, and defined landscape areas, not the driveway or street. If water is seen running into the street or onto the sidewalk, this may mean that sprinklers are not properly aligned, too much water is being applied or the soil has reached a point of saturation.
• Spread mulch when seeding new areas to add a protective layer over soil. The mulch will help your soil retain moisture during the critical seed germination and establishment stages. The clippings from mulching mowers also serve the same purpose—preserving soil moisture and nutrients for growing grass. (While I have not does this in my own installation below – I do plan to.)
• Fertilization supplies plants with essential nutrients for strength, uniform growth and a healthy, fibrous root system. A vibrant and healthy plant makes the best use of available water, meaning less water is needed over time. There also is less chance of the plant being “burned” or dried out to a point beyond recovery. (Fertilizers, however, should not be applied during periods of drought.)
• Pennington says, “Stay Calm! Don’t be overly reactive.” Lawns tend to be overwatered, often with entire lawns being watered to avoid a few dry spots. Overwatering can cause numerous problems, including: shallow root systems; increased disease, weed or insect infestations; reduced drought tolerance; and increased thatch and excessive growth. A lawn does not need water until the color falls by 50 percent, at which time only one inch of water should be added.
• Plants can be conditioned for dry weather starting at the beginning of the spring season by irrigating less frequently but longer. More watering is needed earlier in the development process during germination and establishment. As part of ongoing maintenance, decrease the frequency of watering and increase the amount of water penetration to encourage deeper rooting. Deeper roots will be more drought-tolerant.

In addition, Pennington adds: By utilizing grass seed that requires less water, lawns are more resilient during periods of drought and easier to maintain (e.g. reduced time, energy and resources). Consider a pure bred, drought-tolerant seed, like Pennington Smart Seed.  The varieties in every bag were developed to help you establish a fuller, healthier and greener lawn … while efficiently using natural resources.

Watch Me Work – OverSeeding in 5 (okay 8) easy steps

1. I mowed closely (on my mower’s lowest setting) then removed cut grass and leaves by raking.

2. I aerated the entire area working with a cultivator in established areas and using a thatcher in the bare spots to prepare the seedbed.

3. Because I had some low spots in this area, I added about a 1/4 yard of enriched top soil. (I added another 1/4 yard as I was sowing my seed below.)

4. While I could have conducted a soil test, I chose (on the recommendation of my local garden center) to sweeten the soil with pulverized lime.

a drop spreader is recommended

5. Using a broadcast spreader, I added Starter Fertilizer at the recommend rate.

6. I sowed my seed, spreading at the recommended (on the bag) rate, added a little more top soil and gently raked with the goal of covering (or bedding) the seed.  (The Smart Seed I used had a recommended planting depth of 1/4 of an inch.)

ideally I would have covered more of the area

7.  While I would have covered this area with a mulch (a (super) thin layer of straw in most cases), I ran short of time. I plan to circle back and fan lightly with grass clippings, harvested from other areas of the yard.

mulch is recommended

8. Keep the lawn moist until seedlings are established, then water as needed.  (For me, this meant – modifying an old garden hose and watering with water from my new rain barrel.)

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$50 from Pennington :: A Give Away Winner 

Congrats out to Rebacca Shockley of St. Paul, MN.

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And that’s it for me … happy lawn caring and, well, happy Mother’s Day. For more on the basics of lawn care, please enjoy our Pinterest board :: Lawn Care 101. Cheers. ~jb

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It’s 6:00 pm Friday night, the crew is picking up trash and cleaning the site as the last piece of aluminum is bent and installed on the 15 replacement windows we installed today. As we began to clean up, I walk to the cardboard box holding the white caulk we ordered for the job. I pick it up. Empty. What?! … All that stands between me and a nice pay day, my weekend and my good profit margin is one lousy tube of caulk.

My cell is ringing, I have a dinner date at 7 and we are 15 minutes from all the home centers; the local yards close to us are closed. We have three tired guys, including myself, who have labored hard all day and even additional time to maximize profit and finish this job, this day. At this point, all our frustration is due to one tube of white caulk. I could continue and build on this story, because in reality – we have all been there in some shape or form, at one point or another.

But there are some things we can gain from this story. First, there are always common items, the things we each use daily. Our ability to be prepared and have these items or tools readily available, and organized, can greatly improve our bottom line in any aspect of construction business.

There will always be that time when there is an item needed that you never in a million years would have on your truck. In these cases, you are going to be late to dinner … once in a while, and your wife is going to be mad. But generally, as in anything, we can work to minimize these situations with a little planning and organizing.

A tradesman’s truck says a lot about the person operating it; some will disagree. But to me if a tradesman shows up in a vehicle that carries his tools and materials in an organized fashion, he has already created a good impression. As a homeowner, I am going to feel comfortable that he is a professional.

In my mind, the guy who shows up with the huge pile in his vehicle basically makes me think, “This is going to be messy and expensive.” That is – in the sense of … time is money, he is going to spend a lot of time digging in his truck and I am paying for that time either as an employer, a sub or even as a person hiring the job.

The flip side of all of this of course is we can all use our trucks to provide a positive first impression on our clients. At some point, your client will come out to your truck, but more likely – throughout the project actually, so let it speak to your professionalism. Professionalism is a lot of things, and think about it – none of us would like our doctor’s or dentist’s tables piled high with tools and left over parts from the last surgery or root canal, all while they are preparing to see us and do a procedure.

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For our customers, their home is a big investment, so create a good first impression with an organized truck.

We all know what parts or fasteners we frequently use and I recommend having a system for storing them, whether it’s steel drawer units mounted permanently, portable plastic boxes, Sortainers, and the list goes on. Maybe it’s a combination of these items, and most likely if your space is limited, it will be.

Next, is the common use tools. We all have this grouping unique to us whether you use a Veto Bag or a Bucket Boss, Systainers or maybe a traditional toolbox; we all have a basic set of tools we have mobilized for ourselves. If you don’t, maybe this is a good starting point for proficiency.

Finally, the other tools and equipment we carry, such as – extension cords, nailers, power tools, etc.

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I plan to write an article for the four main types of vehicles used in this industry, followed by a final on unique situation vehicles. First – the traditional pickup truck, second – the service truck or utility truck, followed by – the van and fourth – the trailer.

By no means will I be able to cover everything, great time for example could be spent on lettering your truck as well. I realize there is no perfect vehicle and some things I will bring up are things you may already know, yet – refreshing the mind is a good thing.

Until next time stay profitable my friends. ~Aaron

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