In my family, we have a longstanding tradition of “group sensory analysis”; we gather around the dinner table and purpose to discuss the evening’s wine, much as another family would debate politics or current affairs. We try to use a universal language with simple descriptors and sensations that can be understood by everyone in the family, whether amateurs or professionals, as if we were commenting on something as simple and universal as the weather.

After a few such sessions, I quickly came to the conclusion that the layman experience is anything but scientific. While my father is describing cherries and cola, my mother is marveling at the almond liquor, plums and caramel that her glass exudes. I may smell licorice and roses while the person to my right is raving about the subtle mint notes and wild strawberries.

The analysis of the aromatics of wine in a group setting can be likened to a conversation between an Italian, a Frenchman and a Spaniard on the subject of the world's most beautiful language. "Io preferisco italiano....che bello e dolcissimo..." to which the Frenchman responds, "Je ne vous comprends pas mais tout le monde sait que le français est la plus belle langue du monde", with the Spaniard adding his two cents’ worth, "No entiendo nada de lo que dicen pero que viva el español!" In sum, we often can't see eye to eye (or in this case, nose to nose) on what the wine is communicating to our sense of smell. Each taster seems to speak his or her own language when talking wine. How, then, can we hope to understand each other or reach any sort of consensus?

Amidst such blatant subjectivity, I wanted to know if there was anything objective in the nose of a wine, some foothold, some scientific basis one could use to sift through the hundreds of different descriptors that one wine can provoke. Given that most good sommeliers can determine blindly the grapes in their glass of wine, I knew something concrete had to exist.

In my quest for explanations, I stumbled upon the fascinating world of thiols. A thiol can be defined according to Webster's dictionary as "any of a class of compounds that are analogous to alcohols and phenols but contain sulfur in place of oxygen". In simple terms, thiols are the building blocks of each particular scent in a given wine, and are determined by the varietal, the pre-fermentation chemical reactions, the fermentation and the aging process of the wine. These four factors along with terroir influence the chemical compounds in the wine and determine its aromatics. The concentration of the particular compound is important in determining how it is perceived by the nose. Further complicating the matter, each taster’s threshold of perception varies drastically.

For example, in a recent French wine seminar, I learned that one person may smell cherry while the next will smell almond because both scents share the same chemical compounds in differing concentrations. The more sensitive nose will smell the almond. This variance in sensitivity is partly responsible for our dinner table scenario.

In light of the complexity of smell and the pace at which new research is changing our understanding of it, I recommend that you research the ‘typicity’ or typical primary aromas of your favorite grapes, and then try to identify those descriptors when tasting. Let’s take Pinot Noir as an example. According to experts, Pinot Noirs exhibit any number of the following fruits, flowers, spices, herbs and terroir, depending on where and how it is crafted: cherries, strawberries, red cassis, raspberries, wild berries, plums, ripe tomatoes, violets, rose petals, rosemary, cinnamon, peppermint, licorice, anise, caraway, rhubarb, oregano, green tea, black olives, mushrooms, earth, leather and truffles. In Pinot Noirs from Burgundy, you are more likely to detect minerals and earthiness (much as you would in water from a mountain spring). Practice searching for these particular scents next time you have a glass of red Burgundy in hand. You’ll find it’s much easier to identify them once you call upon your ‘olfactory memory’ and try to conjure up the smell of, say, a plum, as you take in the nose of your wine.

Though this technique will in no way guarantee consensus with your fellow tasters, it can certainly serve as a guide that will eventually enable you to recognize (blindly!) the grapes in your glass.

Good luck at the dinner table.....and happy tasting!

#1  Drink more French wine in 2009

#2  Drink better French wine in 2009

#3  Drink two glasses of red wine a night

#4  Learn a new recipe each month and pair it with a French wine

#5  Become proficient in the major French wine regions

#6  Learn the descriptors to analyze what's in your glass - Nez du Vin

#7  Blind taste more regularly

#8  Learn how to pronounce the appellations of Burgundy

#9  Study French

#10 Move to Burgundy

Here is a toast to each one of you, to the new challenges and adventures that await you in 2009, to health and peace, to remembering what is truly important, to cultivating beauty on a daily basis, to continual growth and awareness, to good friends, food and wine and to the limitless possibilities that 2009 has in store for us.

We wish you all a happy and safe New Year's celebration and we look forward to seeing you in 2009. A la vôtre!

Despite its reputation as an easy-drinking, fruit cocktail sort of wine to be consumed in its youth (Beaujolais Nouveau, not to be confused with traditional Beaujolais, is only a few months old when it hits the market), the particular terroir and artful winemaking behind this very unique beverage are noteworthy.

For starters, the region of Beaujolais offers a very unique soil and climate, sandwiched between Burgundy and the Rhône, where sandy granite parcels give birth to tender, ripe wines. The early-ripening grapes allow for a head start in the winemaking.

Secondly, did you know that along with Champagne, Beaujolais is the only region which forbids machine harvests? As the grapes are whole-cluster fermented in Beaujolais, the bunches must be in tact and healthy upon arrival in the cellars. Part of the art of Beaujolais winemaking is to craft a supple, low-tannin wine and to therefore avoid extracting elements from the stems and seeds. 

Thirdly, the temperatures during the cuvaison, or vat-period, and duration of the fermentation and maceration are unique and quite critical to the quality of the resulting wine. A short vat period (usually around four days) means less extraction of elements from the skins, preserving the fresh berries and aromatics of classic Nouveau. In the absence of astringency from the tannins, these Gamays are consumed en primeur.

Lastly, carbonic maceration sets Nouveau apart from traditional Beaujolais. Vats are filled with whole clusters of Gamay grapes which are neither pressed, nor crushed nor de-stemmed. As the weight of the top layers crushes the grapes on the bottom, juice accumulates and a traditional yeast-based fermentation begins, releasing copious amounts of carbon dioxide.

In the middle of the vat, the juice and solid particles also begin to ferment. An anaerobic environment is created, provoking a unique biochemical fermentation inside each of the intact grapes above. This process is called carbonic maceration and is responsible for the bright berry character and grapey flavors that a Beaujo (Nouveau drinker) so cherishes in a glass of Beaujolais Nouveau. 

The skins are then removed, fermentation concludes, malo-lactic begins and then the wine is briefly aged and bottled. The whole process from grape to bottle only lasts a few months. 

All of these particularities make Nouveau a very special wine indeed. Since the 1980s, Beaujolais Nouveau has enlivened the third Thursday of every November, giving countless lackluster Americans another occasion for celebration. Paired with typical French hors d'oeuvres of which cheese puffs are by far my favorite, glasses of ruby-colored Gamay are slurped down all across the nation.  Most parties also set the ambiance, with French pop from the '80s as the preferred genre.

Do not miss out on this year's Nouveau! Now that you know what's in your glass, let's make merry and may the uproarious festivities begin!

One taste of Valmoissine demonstrates the contrary. This Southern French wine is actually Burgundian in style. Tom Stevenson of 'The New Sotheby's Wine Encyclopedia' commented, "Few Burgundians would believe this is not a Burgundy, and a fine one at that." He goes on to say that Domaine de Valmoissine Pinot Noir is "better than most Burgundies twice its price." How does Louis Latour obtain Burgundian finesse and elegance in the South of France?

One of the secrets is altitude. Due to global warming, a good number of smart winemakers are running for the hills in order to find suitable terroir that still benefits from a longer growing season and moderate temperatures. Ahead of the trend, Louis Latour found just such a spot high up in the hills of Provence in 1989.  The vineyards of Valmoissine were planted at an altitude of 1,500 feet above sea level, on the site of the ancient monastery of Valmoissine. At that altitude, the evenings are cool and almost frostless while the days are full of Provencal sunshine.  Ripeness is obtained while acidity is preserved during a hang time as long as that of the Grand crus of Burgundy. 

Speaking of the Grand Crus, Louis Latour treats Valmoissine as if it were one. With the freedom to choose the best plots and orientation during planting, Louis Latour was able to optimize the vineyard conditions.  The vines are south-facing, creating the perfect exposure to the sun. They are treated with the same care as those of the ubiquitous Chambertin. Yields are kept low to ensure optimal ripeness and sugar content in the grapes. Rigorous sorting in the vineyard is commonplace.  The harvest is entirely performed by hand.

The grapes are then sorted and vinified in open-top vats as in Burgundy. The wine is then aged in Louis Latour's own barrels, which complement and enhance the bright Pinot Noir fruit.  The resulting wine is rich in color and balanced in tannins.

Perhaps the best aspect of Louis Latour's Domaine de Valmoissine Pinot Noir is that it is able to masquerade as a Village-level Burgundian Pinot Noir. Despite its origins in the South of France and its status as a Vin de Pays, Valmoissine surprises amateurs and experienced tasters alike with its elegance, ripeness, balance and complexity. At only $15 a bottle, this movie star is also a bargain. Try a bottle today - we think you will be bedazzled!

Over dinner at Le Garage last week, a fellow wine aficionado asked the classic question - 'If you were stranded on a deserted island with only one beverage, which would it be?'  To a seemingly difficult dilemma, I replied without hesitation:  Champagne!!!  Is that even a question?  What better to quench your thirst and refresh your parched palate than an ice-cold flute of sparkling French Pinot Noir?  And for a prolonged séjour on a budget, I would take a case of Crémant de Bourgogne.

Speaking of Crémant, don't be confused by the très chic local versions from Northern California which have very little to do with the real gig.  True Crémant comes from France and  is the fruit of strict regulations defining every part of the winemaking process, from grape to bottle.  I know what you are thinking - and have to agree that the French seem obnoxiously rule-happy!  Besides the boasting factor, what's the point?  Amazingly enough, these regulations are not intended to be cumbersome; they actually serve to sketch the outlines of a targeted taste profile within which each Crémant should fall.  More importantly, they establish a standard of quality to which each Crémant should adhere.  

Crémants are by definition vinified in la méthode tradionnelle, as in Champagne, and are subject to the pre-1994 yield limits of Champagne (100 liters from 150 kilograms of grapes). The most well-known are Crémant de Bourgogne, Crémant de Loire, Crémant d'Alsace and Crémant de Limoux, although these sparklers are made in virtually every region from local varietals.  Crémant de Bourgogne, for example, is composed of Chardonnay and/or Pinot Noir, and is typically a blend of over 50 different still wines from multiple vintages.  This particular Crémant would more appropriately be dubbed petit champagne, for all the commonalities it shares with the more glamorous sparklers to the West.  Crémants de Bourgogne can therefore be considered an inexpensive version of the world's most sought after wine! 

Simonnet Febvre has specialized in and built a name for itself producing high-quality Crémants since 1840, sourcing its fruit exclusively within the appellation of Chablis.  The Kimmeridgian limestone found in both Chablis and nearby Champagne translates into a mineral-driven wine that dances on the palate.  Simonnet-Febvre takes great pride in its Crémants, and each cuvée is truly a labor of love.  Many of the cellar tasks that would be automated elsewhere are performed by hand at Simonnet Febvre.   A passion for purity and a respect for place guide each step of winemaker Jean-Philippe Archambaud's decisions in the cellar. 

Crémants are ideal for  refreshment on a desert island but they also serve as the perfect daily sparkler, the bubbly that affords you a daily celebration of life.  They make a rejuvenating apéritif, a classy pairing for your favorite pasta and white meat dishes and a luxurious mimosa. Celebrate the beginning of September today with a glass of Simonnet Febvre Crémant Rosé. 

Among the oldest winegrowing regions in France, Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages is now recognized worldwide for producing wines of intense bouquet and typified aromas. We affectionately call them baby Châteauneuf-du-Papes since their taste profile is very similar to that of the Southern Rhône's most treasured appellation. With the same red clayey soil and colorful stones scattered throughout the rows of vines, several of the villages within the Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages appellation are very similar to their more famous neighbor, in terms of micro-climate and varietals, and they can yield amazingly structured and deeply colored wines. 

95 communes take part in this appellation which distinguishes itself from straight Côtes-du-Rhône by lower yields, older vines and superior plots. Both appellations, however, are known for offering an excellent quality-to-price ratio, perhaps the best in the Rhône valley. Around 20 varietals are authorized and planted in the Villages, the majority of which are Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvèdre.

Poets and wine critics have likened tasting a good Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages to taking a stroll across the Pont du Gard, glancing at the Roman arches at dusk, the crickets in full chorus, while the scent of lavender and olive leaves drift on the soft evening breeze.  But poetry aside, the fruits and herbs that jump from the glass of a lovely, unoaked Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages seem to encapsulate the very fragrances and flavors of Southern France. These are 5-sense wines, appealing to more than just the palate, offering a true experience.

Rouge Garance 2006 is a delicious, palate-coating example of this experience. With the pop of its cork, you may find yourself in Avignon! We hope you enjoy a glass of this wine with roasted lamb covered in Herbes de Provence and rubbed with garlic.

The magic occurred when we tasted the stuffed piquillo peppers along with a sip of Chablis.  The warm and oozing goat cheese with the firm, flavorful peppers and fresh herbs were met by the vibrant citrus of this un-oaked Chardonnay in a splash of warm and cold, tangy and rich. The French kiss of flavorful Basque cuisine and minerally Chablisien wine combined with the caress of the sun in a sort of Spanish pueblo setting,  was no less than sublime - and yet at the same time so very simple. The key was in the harmony and I must say we couldn't have planned it. Some (if not most!) of the best pairings are fortuitous.

Try this combination at home and let us know if it moves you, too!

Market research has never been so enjoyable, so easy on the eyes and taste buds. The countryside in San Luis is simply breathtakingly beautiful, with extinct volcanic craters lining up on the horizon, nestled between rolling golden hills, orange orchards interspersed with olive trees and lavender, lazy grazing cows and sheep, and my favorite - row upon row of vivacious vines, extending as far as the eye can see. The coastal influence makes San Luis Obispo the Carneros of mid-California and locals believe they are well situated to craft Burgundian-style Pinot Noir.

Wolff vineyards in particular went to great lengths to explain the Burgundian-like techniques they practice in the vineyards and cellars to make their Pinot more French in style. Indeed, one of the proprietors described Wolff's Estate Pinot Noir as a stepping stone between California and Burgundian Pinots. The vineyard is planted on the slope of one of those striking extinct craters and benefits from volcanic soil with excellent drainage. The Pinot Noir is hardly irrigated and the clones are all straight from Dijon and Pommard. Additionally, the vineyards are farmed organically (and I understand the winery will soon be solar-powered). We were definitely impressed with the resulting wines, and had to agree that despite the higher alcohol content (which is inevitable in California) of their Pinot Noir, it did taste and smell of Burgundy.

That said (and thank you again to Wolff vineyards for the warm welcome and the informative tasting), if you really want to get your palate on a Burgundian style Pinot, we have to recommend that you return to the source. Though California releases many truly excellent Pinots, they are often more expensive (alas!) and higher in alcohol than your average delicious red Burgundy, and our market research indicates they lack that hint of je ne sais quoi that can only come from Burgundian terroir.

For less than $20 a bottle, Louis Latour brings you Santenay 2003 and Marsannay 2006, both from the famed Côte d'Or. These two Pinots provide the minerality, the depth of fruit and the slight touch of wood coupled with nice acidity and ripe tannins that, when combined in your glass, form the perfect picture of Burgundian Pinot. Because the fruit is kept in balance and the alcohol is moderate, your palate is able to perceive of the minerality that would otherwise be overshadowed.  Delicate nuances are also able to shine through and acidity creates shape in the mouth.  Unmistakable earthiness is the final seal of authenticity on the palate. These Pinot Noirs exemplify what local winemakers are striving for: true Burgundian style - balanced yet unbridled pleasure.

There is no doubt that Californian Pinots yield tons of pleasure as well – or that their particular flair should be appreciated for its own intrinsic qualities and uniqueness (once again, the point of our market research!). But if it’s truly Burgundy you want, our advice is that you look no further. Bonne degustation!

The very first reviews of this vintage were unbelievably optimistic. The press had gained its second wind after the rush of the 2005 red and white Burgundies. Critics were proclaiming that the 2006 was to eclipse its predecessor, offering some of the best examples of perfectly balanced Chardonnay in decades. With less Botrytis than in 2005, these wines were said to have the purity of fruit that only comes from optimally ripe and healthy grapes.

Given more time to review and re-taste, a number of critics have come to a different conclusion altogether - 2006 is indeed great, but overshadowing the immense quality of the vintage are the staggering price tags which make the 2005s seem like royal bargains in comparison. Considering the exchange rate when importers were purchasing these wines, the prices seem justifiable but nevertheless shocking. Collectors take one quick glance at price lists before hustling to snatch up any remaining 2005s, as if the slogan for the 2006s read: "Last year was just phenomenal, wasn't it?."

It was. But 2006 offers wines with lower acidity and better fruit. They are more approchable and can be consumed earlier. For restaurants, these wines spell 'bonheur' because they have the prestige of a legendary vintage with the early-drinking advantage so typical of lesser vintages. Burgundy expert Allen Meadows comments: "There is so much richness to the wines that they will probably always provide quality drinking experiences in much the same way that the ‘92s did in their youth as they never did really close up. Perhaps the best thing about 2006 is that it should be an ideal vintage for restaurant wine lists or even as wine by the glass alternatives."Indeed, the quality of the 2006 vintage in undeniable and there are values to be had - for those willing to hunt. You really don't need to look far but for those unwilling, we will make it simple. Here are our top three values in the 2006 vintage:

1. Montagny La Grande Roche 1er cru 2006

This wine offers Premier cru quality from an up and coming appellation in the Côte Chalonnaise. It has repeatedly been praised by international wine critics. Unoaked, sleek and clean with brilliant minerality, ripe peaches and lemon zest, this $25 white Burgundy is a striking value on its own but is clearly unrivaled when on a shelf with California Chardonnays.

Robert Parker says: 'Louis Latour...for all intents and purposes, but Montagny on the wine map.'

2. Viré Clessé 2006

Everyone who tastes this wine marvels at the lovely oak accents and rich texture on the palate. We then explain that this Chardonnay from the Mâconnais is 100% unoaked. Such spice, such round, mouth-filling body is remarkable in a wine from the Mâconnais. Apple pie with cinnamon, vanilla and lemon cream coat the palate. In blind tastings, this wine has been mistaken for high-ranking premier cru Burgundy. At $18, the sheer quality of this wine shines brighter than that of any other white we have seen in this category.

3. Beaune Blanc 2006

And yes, values can be found in the Côte d'Or as well. This is a favorite among true Louis Latour aficionados. Consistent in quality and perfectly-oaked, this wine also offers relative value compared to its neighbors. Beaune Blanc 2006 was Bruce Sanderson's favorite wine of the vintage: 'The 2006 whites achieved a high level of ripeness, and the acidity is on the low side; my favorites were those with the best balance, like the fresh, honey and peach-scented Beaune (87-90, non-blind).' At only $27, this is perhaps the quintessential value of the 2006 vintage.

It is difficult to list just a few highlights since quality was so widespread. As you can imagine, the wines from Louis Latour attracted quite a following and many commented that they were among the best in the room. With the advantage of being a few tables down from some of the ripest cheeses in the tasting, our 2005s were well received with a plate full of aged goudas and Spanish blue goat cheese. The Beaune Vignes Franches 2005 was definitely the highlight. Served out of a decanter, it was dark and pure with blackberries, licorice, black raspberries and minerals. A half hour of air opened it up immensely and allowed the quality of the 2005 vintage to show through in the absence of harsh tannins or gripping acidity.

Despite a few random bottle thieves and a sleepy start due to the Euro Cup final, we feel that this tasting was a grand success. With each passing year, the locals seem to get a better grip on Burgundy. Their questions are more intelligent, their gazes more confident, their tasting experience more complete. One gentleman shared with us that he put on his 'Burgundy hat' before tasting our wines because after sampling several Russian River Pinots, he needed to adjust his expectations in terms of acidity, fruit and alcohol. This mental shift enabled him to appreciate the elegance and subtle refinement of our Pinot Noirs. 

We hope that all those who stopped by for a taste of Louis Latour will send us their comments on The Grand Tasting.  See you next year at Pinot Days 2009!

Louis Latour has always kept a distant but careful eye on Beaujolais, awaiting an opportunity to invest in what he estimated to be one of the most undervalued wine regions of France. The current economic crisis in Beaujolais and the relatively inexpensive land prices have created much opportunity for interested winery owners from the Côte d'Or. Louis Latour seized the occasion in January of this year, purchasing the winery of Vins Henry Fessy, a 120-year-old domaine that was still family-run, like Maison Louis Latour, and that offered pure and elegant Gamays and Chardonnays from some of Beaujolais' best terroirs.  More on Henry Fessy.

The US launch of Henry Fessy's wines is set for July 1st. We are proud to offer you the following Cru Beaujolais, all from the 2007 vintage:  Fleurie, Morgon, Brouilly, Moulin à Vent and Régnié.