Today is the first day of Spring and I thought it was perfect timing to share this cake with which I recently fell completely in love. I made it over the weekend to celebrate Stella turning six months (!!!) and it was so festive and pretty I knew it would become a keeper in our household. Make it for Spring, make it for Easter, make it for Sunday dinner or just because you love someone.

Six months. Woosh! I thought time flew by when Jack was that young, but with a toddler keeping me busy at the same time things are going even faster. Stella is the happiest baby I have ever encountered and I’m so lucky she’s part of our tribe. She smiles the moment she opens her eyes and every time I glance at her. She’s curious and wants to have her hands in EVERYTHING. Her favorite person is her brother, by far, and she delights in watching him play, color, “read” to her, and run around wildly. I’m completely smitten with her and when I realized that six month milestone was coming around I decided to celebrate, even if only by myself, with an excessively happy cake. It’s fresh and light and sweet and pink and everything that comes to mind when I think about my little star baby. Stella girl, this cake will always be yours.

I found a recipe for a basic yellow butter cake in my grandmother’s stash. I don’t remember her ever making it but it’s exactly the cake she would have loved to have been served at a frilly spring tea party. It’s a classic, no-fail ratio of ingredients and I decided to swap in crème fraîche for the buttermilk. In my opinion, it has a little more “sparkle” this way. A fully frosted cake felt like overkill so I went with a naked cake flavored with raspberries from the freezer (also much less effort!) and topped it all off with a perfectly pink camellia from our garden, another nod to spring. If you prefer a fully frosted cake (and I wouldn’t blame you!) you can use seedless raspberry jam or lemon curd as the filling between layers and you’ll have plenty of buttercream to frost the outside in a traditional style. Just be sure to pipe a little frosting around the outer rim of each layer as you assemble it to create a “dam” and then fill in with the curd or jam. This will prevent it from squishing out and bleeding into your beautiful buttercream. You can also omit the raspberries entirely from the buttercream and simply color with food coloring, but then it’s not really the same cake, is it?

A few notes about storing:

This butter cake is extremely moist and, when wrapped tightly in plastic wrap, will keep in the freezer for about 30 days or in the refrigerator for about 4-5. It will keep at room temperature for 2. If the cake is completely frosted, you can store it for these same time frames completely assembled. The frosting helps seal in the moisture. Just be sure to place some plastic wrap on the exposed cake as you start to cut into it. If you decide to frost it in the naked style as I have it written here, it will dry out more quickly without the added frosting. If you do not plan to serve right away, I recommend chilling the assembled cake for an hour or two in the fridge to set the buttercream, and then lightly wrapping plastic wrap around the outside.

A few notes about timing your assembly:

First, I will tell you that YouTube and other cake decorating specific blogs will give you far better advice on how to decorate cakes than I can. Use them! As for my own advice, cold cakes are the easiest to work with and result in fewer stray crumbs. I like to cool my cakes completely, cut them into my layers while they are soft, and then wrap them up and put them in the freezer straight away (or the refrigerator if I plan to frost it later that day). When I’m ready to assemble the cake, I make my buttercream and pull the cake out of the fridge as soon as the frosting is done. If I made the cake in advance and it’s in the freezer, I’ll put it in the fridge the morning I make my frosting to thaw out a bit, or put it out on the counter directly from the freezer when I’m starting to make the buttercream. If the cake is completely frozen when you start to frost it, it will cause the buttercream to harden up and it will be more difficult to work with. Buttercream can be made in advance and stored in the fridge for a few days (covered with plastic wrap), but you’ll need to bring it back to room temperature and re-whip it to get it nice and fluffy. I just don’t like to be bothered with that extra step and dirty dishes, but it’s completely doable and may make your life easier if you’re having a party. Wait until just before your party or, better yet, serving, to top with fresh berries or flowers.

Crème Fraîche Cake

Ingredients:

• 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting your pans

• 1 1/2 cups cake flour

• 1 tablespoon baking powder

• 3/4 teaspoon baking soda

• 1 teaspoon kosher salt

• 1 cup whole milk, room temperature

• 1/2 cup crème fraîche

• 1 cup unsalted butter, room temperature, plus more for greasing your pans

• 2 cups sugar

• 3 whole eggs

• 2 egg yolks

• 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

Instructions:

• Preheat your oven to 350F. Lightly grease two 8x2-inch round cake pans with butter and lightly dust with flour. Line the bottom of each pan with a round of parchment paper and set aside.

• In a large bowl, sift together both flours, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Whisk thoroughly to make sure everything is fully incorporated and set aside.

• In a separate bowl or large measuring cup, combine the milk and crème fraîche.

• In the bowl of a stand mixer, cream the butter until smooth. Add the sugar and continue mixing on medium-high until light and fluffy. Add in the eggs and egg yolks one at a time, mixing and scraping down after each addition to incorporate.

• With the mixer on low, slowly add the dry ingredients in three parts, alternating with the milk mixture, and beginning and ending with the flour. Stop to scrape down the bowl after each addition. You can stop before the final flour addition and mix that in by hand to avoid overworking the batter.

• Divide the batter evenly between the two pans and place in the middle of the oven. Bake until lightly golden brown on top and a cake tester comes out clean when inserted in the middle, about 30-35 minutes. You may also want to carefully rotate the cakes about halfway to ensure even cooking. Allow to cool in the pan about 20 minutes and then gently turn the cakes out onto a wire rack to finish cooling completely.

Raspberry Buttercream (adapted from Vintage Cakes)

Ingredients:

• 6 to 10 ounces raspberries (you can use frozen raspberries, just be sure to thaw first)

• 6 egg whites

• 1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

• 2 cups unsalted butter cut into approximately 1-inch cubes, room temperature

• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Instructions:

• Over a bowl, mash the raspberries through a fine-mesh strainer to catch all of the seeds. Set the collected purée and juices aside and toss the seeds.

• In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together the egg whites and sugar. Place the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water. Whisking constantly to avoid cooking the eggs, gently heat the mixture until very hot to the touch, the sugar is dissolved, and the mixture is smooth and fluid.

• Remove the egg mixture from heat and place the bowl onto the stand mixer. Use the whisk attachment and beat on medium-high speed until the whites are stiff and glossy and will hold a stiff peak when you lift the whisk out of the mixture. The bowl should also be cool to the touch - continue mixing on low speed for another minute or two if it is not.

• Switch your speed back to medium-high and begin adding the butter a piece at a time, mixing well after each addition and stopping frequently to scrape down the bowl. The buttercream will inevitably look curdled at some point. Continue adding your butter, have faith, keep mixing and eventually it will smooth out again.

• When all of the butter has been added and the buttercream is fluffy and smooth and creamy, you can add your salt and raspberry purée. Start with about half of the raspberries and work your way up until you have the desired level of flavor and color.

To Assemble the Cake:

• Using a serrated knife, slice each layer in half horizontally. You should also even up the tops of your cakes if they are at all domed. Wrap tightly in a double layer of plastic wrap and chill in the fridge for about an hour. This will make your cake easier to work with and you’ll have fewer crumbs.

• When you’re ready to assemble, use a dab of frosting to affix one layer to an 8-inch cardboard cake round. Use about 3/4 of a cup of buttercream and, using a large offset spatula, spread evenly onto the top of the layer. Place another layer on top and repeat, alternating buttercream and cake, until all four layers are assembled. Now is the time to see if everything is standing even and, with clean hands, gently adjust until your cake is straight.

• Pile the rest of your buttercream on the top of the cake and smooth it across the top and start to work your way evenly down the sides, stopping every so often to scrape excess buttercream from your spatula back into your bowl. If you pick up any crumbs on your spatula, wipe that into a separate container and save it (for spreading on graham crackers!). You can clean up the sides using a clean offset spatula, a frosting smoother, or a bench scraper.

• Top with fresh berries, flowers, or sprinkles and serve with a very cold glass of milk. Enjoy!

Happy Friday! I’m hopping on for a quick moment to share the recipe for this seedy granola. Recently I started making an effort to feed myself. This is not to be confused with eating, which involves little more than shoving whatever food is within arm’s distance into one’s mouth. If you’re a parent, or maybe you have a demanding job, you understand the distinction.

In order to accomplish this, I had to first realize that feeding yourself during the day is not selfish. I discovered what most seasoned parents already know, and that is that you’re no good to anyone if you’re tired and cranky and hungry. I also returned to a much simpler way of cooking that sometimes just amounts to having a few good components in the fridge or pantry to throw together for quick meals. A nice tuna salad, fresh bread for sandwiches, washed salad greens, avocados, fruit in the freezer for smoothies… it doesn’t have to be fancy. Sometimes food just needs to be functional.

This granola is a good example of a staple you can keep around to elevate some of your more “just functional” meals. It’s nut free so a good option for families with allergies, and the only fat (aside from the seeds) is some olive oil. It’s also much lower in sugar than your standard store-bought granola. I happen to like the flavor of brown sugar and maple syrup together, but if you’re avoiding refined sugar feel free to use all maple syrup (for a total of 1/2 cup) or coconut sugar might be nice. Sugar is what creates those great clumps we all love, so admittedly this is a little less clumpy. You can bump the sugar content up by another quarter cup or so if you like. Also feel free to add in dried fruit like diced apricots, golden raisins, or toasted coconut. I didn’t just so I could keep it more versatile, but I’ll add them in with each serving. Add these items in at the very end, after the granola is cooled, and know that it will go stale a little faster because of the moisture in the fruit.

A few crunchy ways I like to use my granola:

• the standard yogurt and fruit bowl

• with milk of your choice, like a cereal

• on top of a salad (pictured here with mixed greens, ricotta, strawberries, olive oil and fig balsamic vinegar)

• as a garnish to creamy soups

• baked into cookies or sprinkled on top of bar cookies

• sprinkled over toast and ricotta

• with fruit and a swipe of crème fraîche

• over ice cream

If your kids are old enough to be eating small seeds, try making this with them. It’s a fun way to introduce them to cooking. Let them choose the mix of seeds that you use (or nuts if you prefer). I like a ratio of 4 cups of oats to about 2 1/2 cups of seeds or nuts. They can mix the whole thing with their hands.

SEEDY OLIVE OIL GRANOLA

Makes about 6 cups

Ingredients:

• 1 cup raw pumpkin seeds

• 4 cups old-fashioned rolled oats

• 1 cup raw sunflower seeds

• 2 tablespoons poppyseeds

• 2 tablespoons chia seeds

• 1 tablespoon white sesame seeds

• 1/4 cup brown sugar

• 1 teaspoon kosher salt

• 1/2 cup olive oil

• 1/4 cup pure maple syrup

Instructions:

1. Preheat the oven to 350F. Line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Spread the pumpkin seeds out on one sheet and place in the preheated oven until lightly toasted and fragrant, about 7 minutes.

2. In a large bowl, combine the oats, seeds (including toasted pumpkin seeds), brown sugar, and salt and stir to combine. Drizzle in the olive oil and maple syrup and mix until well incorporated (don’t forget the smaller seeds, which like to hang out at the bottom)

3. Spread the granola mix across the two sheet pans (you’ll reuse the one that you used for the pumpkin seeds) and place in the oven for 30-40 minutes until golden brown and toasted, checking to stir every 10 minutes or so.

4. When the granola is done, remove from the oven and allow to cool completely, undisturbed. You don’t want to mix the granola up at this point because it will clump together as it cools and the sugar and maple syrup harden up. Store in airtight containers for several weeks.

Heyo, look at that. It’s been over a year since I’ve been here! Since Jackson was born, this space has sat largely unused. There have been fewer elaborate meals and long leisurely mornings folding pastry dough. There have been a lot more freezer dinners and takeout boxes and the mornings are spent deciding between a shower or ten minutes of folding laundry before Nate leaves for work and all hell breaks loose.

There have also been pancakes. Lots and lots of pancakes. It’s Jack’s most requested meal, and since Stella came along I’ve been trying to find little ways to make him feel special. Making them on the weekend ensures we all sit down at the table for a few minutes together, and I save the leftovers to toast off for Jack the next day or two. These are fluffy and delicious and easy to throw together when you’re half asleep. I sneak in a little whole wheat flour. If your family is finicky about that you can use all white flour, or King Arthur Flour makes a great blend called “White Whole Wheat”, which is a bit milder tasting and a great option for kids. Experiment with what ratio you like - my mom makes these for Jack with only 1/3 a cup of whole wheat and 2/3 cup white and I suspect it’s one reason he has become her little shadow.

BUTTERMILK WHOLE-WHEAT WAFFLES

Makes 12-16 pancakes

Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup whole wheat flour

• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour

• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder

• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda

• 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

• 1 egg, lightly beaten

• 1 1/2 cup buttermilk

• 3 tablespoons butter, melted, plus more for greasing if you’re using a pan or skillet

• pure maple syrup, crème fraîche, berries or bananas, for seving

Instructions:

1. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flours, baking powder, baking soda and salt and set aside.

2. In a large bowl, combine the egg and buttermilk. Whisk in the melted butter. Add the dry ingredients and stir just to combine. Your batter will still look a little lumpy.

3. If using an electric griddle (my choice for easy cleanup!), heat to about 350ºF. If using a skillet, drop a little butter in the middle and heat over medium until it sizzles. Drop your pancakes by a quarter cup or so and allow to cook until you stop seeing bubbles appear on the top and you can easily slide a spatula underneath. Flip to cook through, which should only take 30 seconds to a minute at this point.

4. Serve them hot. You can let people add the garnishes on their own, but for Jack I like to give him a tiny bowl of syrup on the side and he dips the pancakes into it. I keep everyone busy at the table with coffee and cocoa (and occasionally cartoons) while I’m flipping cakes.

adapted from The Fannie Farmer Cookbook

I'm popping in for a minute to share this recipe for salty apply cider caramels. They're perfect if you're in need of last minute gifts or just looking for a special addition to your dessert table. I seem to make a batch every week weeks from October until now, keeping them in the fridge and taking a few along here and there for hostess gifts or setting a couple out after dinner.

Speaking of gifts, I recently stumbled on this article which I think is a worthwhile read for any parent. It outlines a study that supports the idea that kids are more creative and develop a better attention span when they have fewer toys. I don't want to sound like the Grinch here, but I do think it's a good thing to keep in mind during the holidays when there is so much pressure to spend, spend, spend. Since becoming parents, Nate and I have tried to take a more minimalist approach to what we buy and keep in our home and we're all a lot happier for it. Consider it before you drive yourself nuts trying to get in that last minute shopping run this weekend. 

But back to the caramels. They start with a quart of fresh apple cider, which gets reduced down into a thick syrup. Your house will smell divine. You might want to get an extra quart just for drinking, because the scent will be hard to resist. You'll need to use some corn syrup. I've tried many versions of the recipe with other substitutes, but it's pretty difficult to get *just right* without it so for the sake of everyone having successful caramels, let's just stick with the real deal. You'll also need to get your hands on a candy thermometer. You can probably pick one up at any local kitchen store or even a hardware store. I really love this Taylor version, which is super versatile and also has a handy scan function. 

Salty Apple Cider Caramels

1 quart fresh apple cider
1 cup light corn syrup
2 cups heavy cream
2 cups sugar
1/2 cup unsalted butter
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons cinnamon
flakey sea salt

In a large, heavy bottom pot (I use my Le Creuset Dutch oven) bring the apple cider to a rolling boil. Reduce to a very low simmer and continue to cook, uncovered, until the cider is reduced to a thick syrup. Because the cider will be more viscous while hot, you may want to test by putting a small amount on a spoon and allowing to come to room temperature. It should be about the consistency of maple syrup. This process takes me about 90 minutes on my stovetop. 

Add the corn syrup, cream, sugar, and butter and bring to a rolling boil, stirring to combine the ingredients and dissolve the sugar. Try to avoid splashing too much of the granules of sugar onto the sides of the pot, or they won't become fully emulsified. Reduce to medium heat and continue to cook without stirring until your candy thermometer reads 250F. You can take it a bit further to 252F if you want a harder caramel, or 248F for a softer caramel. While the caramel is cooking, line an 8x8" baking pan with a parchment paper sling and lightly grease with butter or non-stick spray. 

When the caramel reaches your desired temperature, remove from heat and stir in the salt and cinnamon. Pour into the prepared pan. Allow to come to room temperature and sprinkle with the sea salt flakes. The salt may still dissolve into the caramel, but you'll taste it. 

I like to refrigerate my caramels for about 24 hours before I slice them. When you're ready to cut, use the parchment sling to lift the entire block of caramel onto a cutting board. Let stand for 10-15 minutes, and then use a ruler and a very sharp knife to cut into 1" squares. Wrap in squares of waxed paper. I like to store mine in the fridge for a few weeks, removing them an hour or so before serving, but they will keep at room temperature for about two weeks. 

Adapted from King Arthur Flour

Jack has not slept the last several nights, and consequently most of our holiday plans have gone right out the window. There were loaves of freshly baked gingerbread to be delivered to friends and neighbors, homemade marshmallows to go to the cousins, and sugar cookies galore. I had dreams of strolling along College Avenue and staring into the twinkly windows of our favorite shops while sipping cocoa. But, as tired as we are, most nights I've been happy to get dinner on the table and maybe sneak in a shower. Maybe. 

Most of my real parenting challenges over the past fifteen months have all stemmed from the same problem - trying to do too much. Being mindful of this is a constant practice, and most often the person I find it hardest to say "no" to is myself. The holidays, with all of their traditions, seem to bring this issue into focus. I find myself wondering what it means if I skip something rather than thinking about what I really feel up to doing. Is it really Christmas if I don't have eight different cookies for our cookie plate? Did I make it to enough holiday parties? It sounds ridiculous to say it out loud, but we get caught up in the pressures of making everything perfect and it's easy to overestimate what we actually want to do.  

In an effort to enjoy the season as much as we can, despite the sleepless nights and an impossibly energetic toddler, Nate and I have been taking it one day at a time. We don't make too many plans in advance, and we end up automatically deleting a few things from our "to do" lists before we even try. If we feel like driving around to look at lights one evening, we'll go, and if I feel like making the cinnamon rolls on Christmas morning, I will. There are always movies and plenty of cocoa for evenings at home and bacon and eggs in the fridge for a backup breakfast. 

In the spirit of simplification, there is this cake. There's something very comforting about sheet cake. It makes no glamorous pretensions, and its main purpose in life is to serve a crowd. It's made for gathering and enjoying together. In the age of Instagram and overly styled desserts, I find that people always are a bit surprised and delighted when you pull out a sheet cake. This one is full of chocolate and mint and a cocoa fudge frosting. As a new parent, I love that it can be made a few days in advance, so you can throw it together whenever you find yourself with a few extra minutes. It's festive enough for dessert, but, not being overly sweet, it's also perfect for that afternoon cup of coffee or sharing at the office for a midmorning snack. Nate's coworkers are currently enjoying this one. Oh, and because I didn't feel like getting out the camera, I have my iPhone to thank for these photos. Simplify!

PEPPERMINT SHEET CAKE/ makes one 18x13" sheet cake, enough to feed a crowd

For the Cake
1 cup unsalted butter
1/2 cup unsweetened natural cocoa
3 tablespoons canola oil
1 cup coffee
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 cups sugar
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 eggs
1/2 cup sour cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon pure peppermint extract

For the Frosting
1/2 cup unsalted butter
1/4 cup unsweetened natural cocoa
1/3 cup whole milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 cups sifted confectioners' sugar
3/4 cup crushed peppermint candies (I used about 20 of the miniature candy canes)

Center an oven rack and preheat to 350F. Grease a standard half sheet pan (18x13") and line with parchment paper. 

To make the cake, melt the butter in a medium saucepan. Whisk in the cocoa until fully incorporated, followed by the oil and coffee. Bring to a rolling boil fro 30 seconds, and then remove from heat and set aside to cool. In a large bowl, mix together the flour, sugar, baking soda, and salt. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, sour cream, and both extracts. Pour the cocoa mixture into the bowl and stir until just combined. Add the egg mixture, and use a spatula to fold the ingredients into the batter. Pour the batter into the greased pan and bake for approximately 30 minutes, until a cake tester comes out clean. 

While the cake is baking, make the frosting. Melt the butter in a large saucepan and whisk in the cocoa. Bring to a rolling boil for 30 seconds, remove from heat, and add the milk and vanilla. Whisk to combine. Off heat, add the confectioners' sugar, one cup at a time. Do not skip the step of sifting the confectioners' sugar. It's way easier to sift it than to try to work out the lumps in the frosting. As soon as the cake comes out of the oven, smooth the frosting evenly over the cake and set somewhere to cool, undisturbed, Moving the cake around while the frosting is setting will cause ripples and cracks in the top. After 5-10 minutes, you can sprinkle the crushed peppermint on top (the heat from the cake may cause the colors in the candy to run if you don't wait a few minutes). 

Allow to cool completely before cutting into squares. If you plan to make this in advance, wait until the day of serving to add the crushed peppermint. 

Adapted from Julie Richardson's Vintage Cakes

Today is the first day of fall and, at least in our house, it feels that way. Afternoons are still hovering somewhere in the low eighties, but the mornings are chilly and evenings are brisk. It’s also that glorious time of the year when the last of the sultry summer produce clashes with the first of the cold weather crops. There are deeply colored plums and luscious blackberries, juicy figs, crisp pears and apples, bicolored corn, brightly colored pumpkins and the last of the tomatoes. Chartreuse, mustard, orange and crimson. The shades in our farmers market haul match the burning maple trees in our yard. 

Today I’ll be celebrating fall with a pumpkin donut alongside my afternoon tea while my favorite butternut squash soup bubbles away on the stove top. This weekend there will be apple cider caramels, ginger cookies, and pumpkin cake testing for Jack’s first birthday in October. If you find yourself in the mood to bake, this apple galette is an easy win. It's not overly sweet and the rye crust is a little toothsome - a nice break from the fluffy pastries of summer. In the photos, I used pink lady apples and substituted a basket of blackberries for one apple. It’s nice to do if you have those things on hand, but I’ve written the recipe for apples alone since that’s where we’re headed, and I promise it’s just as tasty. Figs or pears would also be lovely. You can also omit the sugar from the crust and it would be a good base for savory tarts like tomato or squash. 

APPLE AND RYE GALETTE / makes 1 10" galette

For the pastry:
1.5 cups pastry flour
1 cup rye flour
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup butter, cut into 1" cubes and chilled
ice water

For the filling and assembly:
3 large baking apples, such as Granny Smith, Pink Lady, Crispin or Honeycrisp
3-4 tablespoons sugar, plus more for sprinkling
juice of 1 lemon
fresh nutmeg (optional)
heavy cream

To make the crust, combine both flours, sugar and salt in a large, wide bowl. Add the butter and cut it into the dry mixture with a pastry cutter, two forks, or your fingers. Working quickly so that the butter remains as cold as possible, mix until the largest pieces of butter are the size of large peas. Add in a couple tablespoons of ice water and mix, adding more water one teaspoon at a time until you can bring the mixture together with the palm of your hand. Gather the dough into a flat disk and wrap tightly with plastic wrap. Chill in the fridge for at least one hour and up to two days. You can also freeze the dough for up to a month. 

Preheat your oven to 400F. To assemble the tart, remove your dough from the fridge and allow to warm up just enough so that it is malleable. In the interim, cut your apples into slices 3/8" thick (peeling is optional). Place them in a large bowl and sprinkle the sugar and lemon juice over them. Give them a few stirs and set aside. 

On a piece of floured parchment paper, roll the dough into a circle approximately 15" in diameter. The edges will hang slightly off the paper. Arrange your apples in a single layer, leaving approximately 2 to 2.5 inches around the edge. Fold the edges up and over the apples. Brush with the heavy cream and sprinkle the crust with more sugar. You can also sprinkle some more over the apples if yours are especially tart. Slide your parchment with the tart onto a baking sheet and bake for 18-22 minutes, until the crust is golden brown and your fruit is starting to ooze some bubbly juices.  

A few weeks ago, Nate and I had a three-day weekend that didn’t feel much like a weekend at all. It was filled with company and commitments that we both could have done without and by the time Tuesday morning rolled around we felt like shells of ourselves. Nate trudged off to work and I headed to the fridge. 

I knew that behind the door I would find perky lettuces, homemade nut butters and hummus, bowls of cooked grains and jars of herby dressings. They were there in anticipation of precisely this kind of moment and I cursed my foresight. I took a minute to ponder the idea that maybe someone had broken in during the night and left behind a plate of bolognese or perhaps a large slice of chocolate cake. When I opened the door I found that it was as I had left it. 

As luck would have it, I found a rather sad looking zucchini in the produce drawer. It was past its prime and destined for baking. Watching Jack chase a few blocks across the kitchen floor, I shredded the squash into cold, wet shards the color of new grass and set them aside to drain. I reached for whole wheat flour and maple syrup and at the last minute brought the olive oil down from the cupboard. Soon the house was filled with the scent of comfort and the very idea of the warm muffins, slathered in butter, began to revive me. 

This is your basic muffin recipe with a few healthy upgrades. It tastes good enough to will you out of bed but is substantive enough to carry you through the day. These are best eaten or shared the day they’re made, but can go an extra day or so if tightly wrapped. They also freeze well and you can enjoy them one at a time, as needed. Toast, top with butter, and you’re good as new. 

OLIVE OIL AND ZUCCHINI MUFFINS/ makes about 18 muffins

1 1/2 cups grated zucchini
3/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup maple syrup
1 teaspoon kosher salt
zest of 1 orange
3 eggs
1 1/2 cup whole wheat flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 1/4 cups toasted pecans, roughly chopped
turbinado sugar, for topping

Preheat your oven to 350F and line two 12-cup muffin pans with 18 or so paper liners. 
Grate the zucchini into a bowl or colander and set aside to drain. 
In a large bowl, whisk together the olive oil, sugar, maple syrup, salt, orange zest and eggs. Add the flour, baking powder and soda and stir until just combined. Fold in the zucchini and pecans. 
Fill the muffin liners nearly to the top and sprinkle with turbinado sugar. Bake for about 20 minutes, until the tops of the muffins are golden brown and spring back slightly when touched. 

Shortly after Jackson turned eight months old, I quit my job. I told my boss on a Monday during a clipped and uneventful conversation, and by 2pm I found myself standing alone in our house on a summer afternoon. My mom had Jack. Nate was at work. The dog panted in the corner. 

Not knowing what else to do, I got into the shower. In my befuddled state I neglected to flick on the lights, and I welcomed the shade and the cold tile with gratitude. I stood under the cool water, willing myself away from the black hole of panic that threatened to consume me. Damned if you do and damned if you don’t, it’s a sticky time for women to choose to stay at home. With the memory of Hillary’s loss still burning in my mind, I wondered what kind of example I would be for our son if I “just” stayed home. I turned my focus to the sensation of the cold water on my face and repeated our reasons back to myself, one by one, like mantras. Our life would be simpler. I would have more time to write and cook. I could go back to freelance projects. Maybe write that book I always talked about. They were all good reasons, but I only needed one: Jackson. 

Feeling somewhat assuaged, I stepped out and dressed, then into the kitchen to look for something to do. There were apricots on the counter, fragrant and tinged with pink, and I thought about how lovely they would be in a cake. I set about creaming butter with sugar and slicing fruit. There was a bit of almond paste in the fridge and I threw that in too. By the time the cake came out of the oven I was in high spirits and took the dog for a walk while it cooled. When we returned, I sat down at the table by myself and ate two slices, dusted with confectioners sugar and washed down with cold iced tea. Slowly, the fear began to melt away and for the first time I allowed myself to feel excited. For a brief moment I was a kid again on the last day of school before summer vacation. The smell of the freshly baked apricot cake in the kitchen on that warm afternoon was blissful, and I decided if this scent was what my kids remembered me by, then that might be just fine. 

APRICOT AND ALMOND CAKE/ makes one 9" round cake
If you can't find apricots, you could easily use another stone fruit or cherries, perhaps. Blackberries would also be nice. Personally, I think the combination of apricot and almond is a match made in pastry heaven and it's worth trying to make it as is. 

1/2 cup unsalted butter, room temperature, plus extra for lining
1 3/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/3 cup almond paste
1/3 cup granulated sugar
scant 2/3 cup brown sugar
2 large eggs, room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2/3 cup whole milk, room temperature
5-6 apricots, sliced 3/8 inch thick and tossed with a few tablespoons of sugar
confectioners sugar, for serving

Preheat your oven to 350F. Butter a 9" round cake pan and line the bottom with parchment paper and butter the paper as well. Whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt and set aside. 
Combine the butter and almond paste until nearly smooth. Add the sugars and cream until fluffy and light. Add the eggs, one at a time, followed by the vanilla. Add the dries in two or three parts, alternating with the milk. Beat until fully combined but take care not to overmix. 
Transfer the batter to the prepared pan and arrange the apricots on top in a pretty rosette pattern. Bake until golden brown and the top springs back slightly when touched, about 50 minutes. 
Allow to cool in the pan for 20 minutes or so and then, with great care, turn out to a wire rack to continue cooling. Dust with confectioners sugar just before serving. 

Lately, I've been all about hygge, the super buzzy philosophy for which we have the good Danish people to thank. It's not a novel idea for Nate and me (who have on more than one occasion been accused of being homebodies) by any means, but I'm thankful someone made it cool and that I now need zero excuses to get cozy on the sofa with my cocoa. If you're not yet familiar with the feng shui of 2017, I suggest you start reading up immediately and casually dropping the term in conversation. People will think you're ultra hip, and you'll be left alone to revel in your slippers, wooly blankets, bathtub, etc. This is a pretty hilarious study on the trend. 

In all seriousness, with all the current uncertainty in the world, many of us feel a pull to get more involved. Get out and march. Get up and make calls. Volunteer. And so we should. However, it's important that all of this is then balanced with a fair amount of self-care, so that we can look inward and understand what is at risk, and also recharge so we have the strength to carry on. I don't think it's a coincidence that hygge is growing right now. 

I won't pretend that a few humble scones are the missing link for social justice. But, they might bring a smile to your neighbors or your kids. While I personally don't mind them slathered with a generous amount of clotted cream, they're also perfectly delicious as is. Wrap them up and hand them out the next time you're gathering. Invite friends over to share them with you while you write postcards to your Congress people. I have always believed that food is the universal language and that by coming to the table together we will share more than just a meal. 

A few notes about these scones... They are very easy. Because we use cream instead of butter as the magic binder, we only need a little stirring. They're also foolproof. The cream coats all of the dry ingredients, resulting in a moist, tender, fine crumb. If you are averse to scones because you think they're too dry and crumbly, give these a whirl. You can also make them in advance. Do everything up to and including the step of shaping them. Then, wrap them tightly on a baking sheet and freeze for up to two weeks. When you're ready to bake, simply pull them out of the freezer, space them appropriately, egg wash + sugar and bake. This is also a good system if you wish to eat them slowly over a week or two. Pull a few out and you can enjoy a particularly hygge moment without dirtying the kitchen or ending up with an entire batch and nobody but yourself to enjoy them.

These scones are endlessly adaptable. I've made them into large triangles when we're going to keep them for ourselves for breakfast and afternoon coffee, but I've also shaped them into little circles for parties. Use whatever dried fruit, nuts, and spices you have on hand. If I'm going to use fresh fruit I poach it in simple syrup and then drain it very well to control the added liquid. I think cardamom pairs particularly well with fruit, but you could easily substitute in cinnamon or powdered vanilla bean, or omit entirely. My favorite combinations are dried cherry + cardamom, currant + orange zest + cardamom (both shown in the photos), crystallized ginger + dates, diced poached rhubarb + vanilla bean, pecan + dried pear + cinnamon, and dried apricot + poppyseed. 

Lastly, in my hurry to get these posted I only included metric measurements. I'll probably update that at some point soon, but for now please buy yourself a kitchen scale and open yourself up to the beauty of weight measurements. 

EASY CREAM AND CARDAMOM SCONES

Makes 8 large scones

Scones

• 400g all-purpose flour
• 83g sugar
• 20g baking powder
• 5g salt
• 185g chopped dried fruit or nuts
• 350ml heavy cream
• 60g honey

Topping (this is an intentionally loose recipe - alter to suit your tastes)

• 1 egg mixed with a splash of heavy cream
• handful of organic sugar (organic is essential to get that crunchy topping!) mixed with a generous pinch of cardamom, cinnamon or powdered vanilla bean

Preheat oven to 400F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 

In a large bowl, mix together the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Add fruit/nuts and mix to incorporate. 

In a separate bowl whisk together the cream and honey until well combined. Add to dry ingredients and mix until just combined. Do not overmix!

On a lightly floured surface, pat the mixture together into a flat circle, approximately 8 inches in diameter. Using a bench scraper or a lightly floured knife, cut into 8 triangles. 

Spread scones evenly on prepared baking sheet. Place in freezer for at least 20 minutes, and up to 2 weeks (wrapping tightly in plastic wrap if you are going to freeze more than a few hours). When you're ready to bake, remove from freezer and brush egg mix over top and sides of each scone, being careful not to allow it to pool down the sides. Sprinkle the sugar and spice mixture generously over the top. 

Bake until scones are golden brown on top, about 18-23 minutes. 

Jackson. My sweet baby boy is one month old. One month since he came into the world and brought with him the greatest joy his daddy and I have ever known. There’s no way to comprehend the experience. It feels futile - even silly -  trying to describe it so I’ll save that task for another day. We are ridiculously happy and I’ll leave it at that.

I’ve got just a few minutes here with a sleeping baby so I’ll get right down to it today, and I apologize in advance for the ho-hum pics this this post. As any of you parents know, life with a newborn takes on a narrow focus. Eat. Sleep. Eat. Sleep. Snuggle. Shower on a good day. Fold some laundry, maybe. Eat. Sleep. Fortunately we’ve had a revolving door of visitors bringing food and support, but getting a meal on the table (previously my strong suit) is now a daily challenge.

Before Jack was born I made a big batch of this soup and tucked several quart jars into the freezer. It’s nourishing and comforting and revived me during those first days when the divide between day and night was nonexistent. The recipe is not mine but was shared with me by a close friend of my mom’s. She often hosts a Halloween dinner and practically greets you at the door with a big bowl of it, topped elegantly with creme fraiche and chives. It feels like a warm hug every time.

There are a million squash soup recipes out there but I urge you to try this one. I make it exactly as it’s written in the cookbook. It’s velvety and tastes so much more indulgent than the ingredient list would suggest. It’s also simple. Roasting the halved squashes brings out a depth of flavor but also makes it easy to scoop out the flesh, keeping the prep minimal. Add a green salad and crusty baguette if you wish, but you may be tempted to ladle it right into a coffee mug as I’ve been known to do. More conducive to snuggling down under blankets on the couch during Netflix binges.

Since I have a growing stack of unwritten thank-you cards, I’m also going to use this space to thank all of you that have extended yourselves to us over the last month. The calls, texts, emails, visits, meals, gifts, hugs, kind words on Facebook and Instagram, neighbors that keep bringing in our garbage cans for us, … we are overwhelmed by our community. I hope I can return the favor some day.

BAKED WINTER SQUASH SOUP

From The New Basics Cookbook

12 servings

• 2 acorn squash, 2lbs each
• 2 butternut squash, 2lbs each
• 8 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 8 teaspoons brown sugar
• 3 carrots, peeled and halved
• 1 large onion, thinly sliced
• 10 cups good chicken stock
• ¾ teaspoon ground mace
• ¾ teaspoon ground ginger
• Pinch of cayenne pepper
• Salt, to taste
• Suggested garnishes - creme fraiche, chives, freshly ground black pepper, crusty croutons or toast, and your best olive oil

Preheat oven to 350F. Cut the squash in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Lay cut side up in a couple of baking dishes or shallow roasting pan and fill each cavity with 1 tablespoon butter and 1 teaspoon brown sugar. Arrange carrots and onions around the squash and pour 2 cups of the chicken stock around the veggies. Cover tightly with foil and bake until squash are very tender, about 2 hours.

Remove pan from oven. When the vegetables are cool enough to handle, scoop the flesh out of the squash and place in a large soup pot, along with the carrots, onions and cooking liquid.

Add the remaining chicken stock, spices, and salt to taste and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 10-20 minutes.

Use an immersion blender to puree the soup until smooth and velvety. Alternatively, you can use a blender and work in batches, returning the soup to the pot afterwards to heat through. Taste and adjust seasonings as needed before serving

It’s the first day of fall and I’m equipped with my apple spice tea, a bowl of soup and a couple hours of quiet. It’s been hot where we live but today the wind is cool and there’s a crispness in the air that feels appropriate for the occasion.

So much has changed since I last posted to this site. After much soul-searching (and tears) I left my restaurant jobs and my gig at Williams Sonoma Test Kitchen and started working on various things from home. Shortly after, Nate and I were elated to learn we are expecting our first baby in October (!!!). In anticipation of our growing family, we sold our house in Oakland and moved to a sweet little town about 20 minutes away. The changes were stressful, to say the least, but with a week or so to go before the due date we are finally getting ourselves settled and happily nesting away. And, I’m finally back in the kitchen.

During the moving process I didn’t have much access to cook. Even if I did have the opportunity, I was usually too tired and spent to give it much thought. I found myself making us simple meals that were nothing more than a few strategically combined ingredients. Avocado on toast. A plate of cheese and fruit. Crunchy vegetables toasted under a broiler and drizzled with olive oil. Salads were a mainstay, as they were easy to throw together and typically didn’t have any lingering scent to offend potential homebuyers!

Last year we celebrated our first anniversary in Spain and I’m still thinking about the dreamy meals we shared there (ps...shoutout to my husband who asked me to marry him exactly 3 years ago today!) Much like the things we ate while we were selling our house, the food we had in Spain was simple. This salad is a result of that trip. It’s a study in contrasts. Salty and sweet. Fresh yet indulgent. Delicate and decadent. The substitution options are endless and I’ve included a few below. 

A few notes

-If you can’t find fresh figs, crisp apples, pears, or fuyu persimmons would do nicely. It warmer weather, strawberries, blackberries, or yellow peaches would be a good substitution.

-I wanted to make this a decidedly Spanish salad so I used Manchego, but crumbled blue would be delicious with the fruit and salty prosciutto.

-Instead of pine nuts, try toasted walnuts (especially if you’re doing the pear and blue cheese thing)

-The arugula is sturdy enough that the whole salad can be assembled an hour or so in advance of company. Just wait to add the mint until the very end, as it will wilt and brown.

-The balsamic glaze is totally optional, though it does add a pretty fab dimension to the salad and you can use the rest on ice cream, fruit, paired with pork or steak… whatever your heart fancies. Just allow it to come to room temp before serving again or reheat if it’s particularly stiff.

- If you’re planning to make this for company, make the balsamic ahead of time. Not everyone loves the smell of hot balsamic bubbling away…

-A good basic balsamic is the way to go - something with nice flavor but not your most expensive stuff

FIGS AND PROSCIUTTO SALAD WITH BALSAMIC GLAZE

serves 2-4

• 1 cup balsamic vinegar
• 2 tablespoons honey
• 2 large handfuls of arugula
• ½ small fennel bulb, shaved thin
• 1 tablespoon fresh mint, cut into thin ribbons
• 1 tablespoon good olive oil
• 3 slices prosciutto
• 4 -6 fresh figs, quartered
• Slivered manchego cheese
• 1 tablespoon toasted pine nuts
• Pepper and flaky sea salt

Combine balsamic vinegar and honey in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and reduce to a gentle simmer. Allow to cook down until syrupy. If your glaze becomes too thick, you can add another splash of vinegar or water to thin it down. Remember that it will continue to thicken as it cools.

In a medium bowl, toss together the arugula, fennel, mint and olive oil until the greens are shiny and coated. You can add a little more oil to taste if you wish.

Arrange the arugula mix on serving platter or individual plates. Tear the prosciutto into strips strips, gather each strip into a bundle and lay on top of the arugula. Scatter the figs on top.

Garnish with cheese, toasted pine nuts, and more mint, if desired. Finish with a crack of fresh pepper and a sprinkle of salt.

*Your extra balsamic glaze can be kept in the fridge for a couple weeks! Reheat before use

Nate and I returned from a two week vacation to find that fall has arrived in Northern California. The maple leaves are turning shades of rust and gold and there are persimmons on our neighbor’s tree. Pumpkins perch on every other doorstep. Mornings feel hushed. It’s my happiest time of year and I retreat into sweaters and cups of tea.

Perhaps the most reliable signal in the change of weather was that I caught a vicious cold; a fate I suffer every year. While working in restaurants and catering there was no such thing as calling in sick. I would charge bullishly into work armed with kleenex and cold meds, “doubling down” on Emergen-C packets mixed in giant plastic quart containers. This year I folded. Blessed (or cursed) with a mostly freelance career I allowed myself to sink into the depths of sickness and my sheets. It was divine. 

Although it may look like fall here, we’ve only had a day or two that actually felt like fall with regard to the weather. One of these days happened to land on the first that I felt well enough to pull my groggy head from the covers and step back into the kitchen. After several days of soup and tea I suddenly felt hungry and quickly took survey of our refrigerator. I found the last of the summer squash, as well as the first of the persimmons. Forgotten during my sickness, the flesh beneath the shiny, jewel-toned skin had turned to mush. I thought about a cake someone once brought my mom during the holidays. A deep brown, dense, spicy persimmon cake. She kept it on a plate in a cupboard away from the dog’s reach, but she couldn’t hide it from me. Sneaking tiny slice by slice from its hiding spot, day after day, I ate until it was mostly gone. My mom pretended not to notice.

Looking back down at my zucchinis and mushy persimmons I decided cake was exactly what a sick girl needed, and set to work. 

ZUCCHINI & PERSIMMON AFTERNOON CAKE / Makes 1 loaf

This cake is not really like the one in my mom's cupboard, but it does have persimmons and it’s the perfect cozy thing to keep around the house when you need a pick-me-up.  It also has pecans and cinnamon, because the first day I made it I wanted my house to smell of them. Olive oil for flavor, but you could easily substitute vegetable oil. I imagine coconut oil, warmed to its liquid state, would also work well. Feel free to use only all-purpose flour, but the whole wheat mix does lend a certain nuttiness that I love. Nate likes his cake in the morning, plain with coffee. I like it toasted and smeared with goat's milk butter and big flakes of sea salt.

1-2 very ripe Hachiya persimmons
2 1/2 cups grated zucchini
1 cup sugar, divided
1 1/4 all-purpose flour
3/4 cup whole-wheat flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
3/4 cup olive oil
2 eggs
1 heaping cup of chopped, toasted pecans
turbinado sugar, for topping

Preheat your oven to 350 F. Lightly grease and flour a 9x5" loaf pan.

Cut the tops off of your persimmons. Scoop out the ripe, jelly-like flesh with a spoon. Measure out 1/2 cup and set aside. 

Combine the zucchini with 1/4 cup of sugar in a large sieve or mesh colander and set over a larger bowl or the sink. Find a bowl slightly smaller than your colander and set on top of the zucchini. Press gently and let sit for 15 minutes or so, until much of the liquid from the zucchini has drained off. You can put some water in the smaller bowl to weight it down if you like - just be careful it doesn't slosh into the zucchini. 

Whisk together the flours, baking powder, baking soda, salt and spices and set aside. In a large bowl combine the olive oil, eggs, and the persimmon puree. Add the flour mixture in two parts, mixing until just combined and scraping down the sides of the bowl. Add the zucchini and two thirds of the pecans. 

Spread the batter evenly in the prepared pan and top with the rest of the nuts and a generous sprinkling of turbinado sugar. Bake until the top is golden brown and a cake tester inserted in the middle comes out clean, about 55-65 minutes.

 

Welcome to By Guess and By Golly, a project that has slowly evolved over the years and which I'm so excited to finally share here in this space. "By guess and by golly" is a phrase my grandmother used on me frequently and one that's become sort of a life motto. It means to learn by doing. Trial and error. Figuring it out as we go. She mostly used it in regards to cooking and recipes but I think it's a pretty dynamite philosophy for life in general. 

This year my husband and I are sharing our first year of marriage, living in our first house, raising our first puppy. We're living a lot by guess and by golly, which is both thrilling and terrifying. It also feels like a natural time to get this project going, if for no other reason than to have a creative outlet. Our home centers around our kitchen, so consequently this blog will mostly center around food - recipes, dishes, and meals to be shared with your loved ones. We'll sprinkle a few other things in here and there. I hope that there will be something here that resonates with you. Thanks for following along.

HONEYED PLUOT & THYME GALETTES
This is late summer at it's very finest. It was a total accident that evolved out of a lazy moment when I couldn't be bothered to go ahead with a full pie. You can substitute other stone fruit like plums or late-season nectarines, or figs. Choose a neutral flavored honey like clover to let the flavor of the fruit and wine come through. Or, forget everything I said and choose something herbaceous like lavender or sage honey to add another level of flavor. 

Pastry
1 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons pastry flour
1 tablespoon cane sugar
pinch of kosher salt
3/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch pieces and chilled until very cold
1/4 to 1/3 cup very cold water

Filling
1.5 pounds firm but ripe pluots
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons port wine
splash of balsamic vinaigrette
pinch of kosher salt
leaves from 4-5 sprigs of fresh thyme, plus extra sprigs for garnish

Assembly
1 egg yolk whisked with 1 tablespoon heavy cream (optional)
turbinado sugar

Make the pastry. Mix together the pastry flour, sugar, and salt in a large bowl. Add the cold butter pieces and toss in flour mixture. Using your hands and moving quickly to keep the butter cold, work the butter into the flour mixture. I find it helpful to "squish" the butter between my thumbs and forefingers into flake-like pieces. Continue working with your hands until the mixture is crumbly; you'll still have some bigger pieces of butter remaining. Alternately, you can us a food processor and pulse just a few times. Slowly drizzle the water in a tablespoon at a time until the mixture just comes together when you press it with the palm of your hand. You may use slightly less or more water. Gather dough into a flat disc and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes and up to 3 days. 

While the pastry is chilling preheat your oven to 400F and make the filling. Slice pluots into 1/4-inch wedges and place in a large bowl. In a small bowl whisk together the honey, wine, balsamic vinaigrette, salt and thyme. Pour over the pluots. 

Divide the chilled dough into 6 equal pieces. On a floured board roll each piece into a circle about 1/4-inch thick and transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Arrange the pluot slices in a pretty pattern in the center of each dough circle, leaving a 1-inch border. Pour any remaining honey mixture over the pluots. Fold or pleat the dough over the filling, pressing to adhere. Brush the dough with egg wash (if using) and sprinkle with turbinado sugar. 

Chill galettes for 10 minutes prior to baking to set the dough. Bake at 400F for 15 minutes, rotate, and decrease temperature to 375F for remaining 20-25 minutes, or until pastry is golden browned and juices are bubbling. 

Serve warm or room temperature and garnish with freshly whipped cream and thyme. 

Yields 6 galettes