Mole is one of the most enigmatic and interesting foods on earth. In Mexico , its preparation and final result depends on the diversity of ingredients used from city to city, and perhaps most importantly, on the personal preferences of the cooks. It is a very personal, unique dish that with the help of your imagination and personal touch, will reach new dimensions in your kitchen.

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

2 medium dried ancho chiles, stemmed, seeded, and membranes removed
2 dried mulato or pasilla chiles, stemmed, seeded, and membranes removed
2 chipotle chiles in adobo sauce (canned), seeded
4 cups chicken or beef broth, divided
5 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 large ripe dark-skinned plantain, peeled and thickly sliced
½ medium onion, chopped
8 oz. (3-4) ripe plum tomatoes
2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
3/4 cup dry-roasted, unsalted cashews
¼ cup whole almonds
¼ cup raisins
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
1 tablespoon roasted peanuts
1 1-inch slice from a firm French bread or Mexican bolillo, torn into pieces
½ teaspoon Mexican canela (cinnamon), ground
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon dried oregano
½ cup dry sherry ( jerez )
4 oz. Mexican chocolate, chopped
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste (depending on how salty the broth is)
freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Preparation

Heat an ungreased medium skillet over medium-high heat and toast all the dried chiles until they begin to change color (about 15 seconds each side). Be careful not to burn them, as that will add a bitter taste to the mole. Using tongs, transfer chiles to a large pot and add 2 cups of chicken or beef broth, bring to boil, then reduce heat and simmer uncovered for 25 minutes until chiles are very soft, stirring occasionally  to ensure even soaking. Strain liquid and reserve. Chop chiles.

Place 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a heavy, medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the ripe plantain pieces and sauté until golden brown, about 3 minutes.  Using slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to remove the excess of oil. Add the onion, garlic cloves, tomatoes and fry, stirring regularly until they are well browned, no more than 10 minutes. Scrape the mixture into a blender or food processor along with the cooked plantains, cashews, almonds, raisins, sesame seeds, peanuts, bread, drained chipotles and other chiles, cinnamon, cumin seeds, and dried oregano. Add 2 cups of the broth (you could use the reserved liquid from rehydrating the chiles) and blend until smooth. Remember to stir and scrape down the sides of mixture, adding extra broth if needed to keep everything moving and ensure a smooth mixture. Press the mixture through a sieve into a bowl.

Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil in the saucepan over high heat. When you see smoke rising from the saucepan, add the chile mixture all at once. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring constantly for 5 minutes, then add the chocolate, dry sherry and reserved 2 cups of chicken or beef broth to the mole. Simmer over low heat, partially covering the pot,  for 40 minutes, stirring regularly to integrate all the flavors. You can thin the molé with additional broth to keep it the consistency of a creamy soup. Adjust seasonings and serve warm with roasted chicken, cashews, and steamed rice.

[Chef’s Note: This is a very time consuming dish to make, but the results are definitely worth the effort…right up to the last bite. Start three days ahead. Although traditionally in Mexico the molé is served with turkey, the chosen protein is really not that important because the star is the molé itself. Serve it with any kind of meat: chicken, turkey, beef, pork, shrimp, or just plain with steamed white rice. This mole will keep well in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days, or frozen for up to a month. If you choose to freeze the leftover mole, thaw it in the refrigerator and then heat in a saucepan or microwave oven, adding some chicken broth if needed.]

Recipe and photo by Melissa DeLeon Douglass

White chocolate, lemon, raspberries… these are sexy foods. This dessert is simple in construction, comprising merely a lemon cream, white chocolate, sweet lemons and fresh raspberries, but its taste is anything but. This napoleon presents sensuous textures with everyday flavors; a sublimely silky cream contrasts perfectly with crisp white chocolate. Tart and tangy paired with sweet and creamy makes for a bright and utterly refreshing dessert.

6 servings

Ingredients

For the white chocolate layers:
1 pound white chocolate, tempered

For the lemon cream:
1 teaspoon unflavored granulated gelatin
2 tablespoons cold water
½ cup sugar
2 eggs
1 egg yolk
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice (from about 4 large lemons)
Zest of 2 lemons
¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
A pinch of salt
½ cup heavy cream, whipped to medium peaks

For the poached lemon slices:
1 cup water
1 cup sugar
2 small lemons, sliced very thinly

For the candied lemon confit:
1 cup water
1 ½ cups sugar, divided
1 lemon

Fresh raspberries

Equipment

2 flat baking sheets
At least 2 sheets of clear acetate
Chocolate thermometer
Electric or handheld mixer
Fine mesh sieve
Mandolin or sharp straight-edge knife
Pastry Bag
Round pastry tip
Rubber spatula
Ruler
Sharp paring knife
Whisk
Vegetable peeler

Preparation

Prepare the white chocolate layers:
Using a large offset spatula, spread the tempered white chocolate very thinly on a plastic accetate sheet over the back of a flat baking pan. Complete this procedure at least 2 times, using separate pans and acetate each time. When the chocolate has set (this should take only about 2-3 minutes), use a sharp paring knife and a straight-edge ruler to cut the chocolate into at least 24 2×3-inch rectangles (we recommend cutting extra in case of breakage). Set the pan in the refrigerator and allow the chocolate to set for at least four hours before using. Unmold the rectangles before using.

[Chef’s Note: To temper white chocolate, first chop the chocolate into small pieces. Place about 2/3 of the chocolate in a mixing bowl. Slowly microwave the chocolate in 30 second intervals to melt it, stirring with a rubber spatula after each interval so it melts evenly. Once the chocolate has completely melted, continue to microwave until it reaches a temperature of 115 to 118° F; when the chocolate is ready it feels warmer than your body and hot to the touch. Remove the bowl from the microwave and stir the chocolate slowly and constantly, continually adding the reserved unmelted chocolate until it cools to 78 or 79° F. It should be thick, smooth and glossy in texture. Once at the correct temperature, slowly microwave again, this time in 5-7 second intervals, stirring between, until is warmed to 86 to 88° F. Be very careful, because the chocolate warms very quickly. Do not let the chocolate get too warm or it will go out of temper.

You will not need all of the tempered white chocolate, but it is always best to temper chocolate in amounts no smaller than 1 pound. When finished, just spread the extra onto a sheet of parchment paper, let set and then break up and store with the rest of your chocolate for another use.]

Prepare the lemon cream:
Dissolve the gelatin in the cold water.

Prepare a water bath by putting a saucepan of water over heat to simmer. Combine the sugar, eggs and egg yolk, lemon juice, lemon zest and salt in a metal bowl and place over the simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water. Cook the mixture over the water bath, whisking constantly until it thickens, becomes very creamy, and your whisk leaves a ribbon in the cream; this may take up to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the gelatin and butter until completely smooth. Using a fine mesh sieve, strain the cream into a clean bowl or container. Cover with a layer of plastic wrap directly on the surface and let cool at least 1 hour or for up to 2 days.

Once cooled to at least room temperature, fold in the whipped cream. Place the lightened cream into a pastry bag fitted with a medium round tip. Set aside in the refrigerator until ready for use.

Prepare the lemon slices:
Combine the water and sugar and bring to a boil. Add the lemon slices and return to a quick boil. Lower heat and simmer until the slices are almost translucent, about 5 minutes. Chill in the syrup and reserve until ready for use, for up to 2 weeks.

Prepare the lemon confit:
Peel strips of lemon skin with a vegetable peeler. Cut most of the white pith from the rinds and discard. Thinly julienne the peel using a sharp paring knife, place in a pot of cold water and bring to a boil. Strain and repeat this blanching procedure two more times.

Combine the water and 1 cup of sugar and bring to a boil. Add the julienned peel and return to a quick boil. As with the slices, lower the heat and simmer until the zest is almost translucent, about 5 minutes. Strain, saving the syrup if desired, and toss the zest with the remaining ½ cup of sugar. Arrange the sugar-coated zest on a wire cooling rack and let rest until dry, at least 1 hour. Store in an air-tight container until ready for use.

[Chef’s Note: It may seem tedious to cook the peel three times, but blanching the rind removes the bitterness and is a necessary step to produce an edible garnish. The candied zest will keep for about a month.]

Service

To assemble the napoleon, use four white chocolate rectangles per napoleon. Place one smooth side up on a plate. Neatly pipe three lines of lemon cream vertically on top of the white chocolate layer. Top with another layer of white chocolate, and then layer 2 slices of poached lemon over the chocolate layer and six raspberries on top of the lemon slices. Top with another layer of white chocolate. Pipe another three lines of lemon cream on this layer of white chocolate, and top with the final white chocolate layer. Arrange three strips of candied lemon peel on top of the final white chocolate layer for garnish.

Repeat the procedure with the remaining white chocolate and fillings. The napoleons are ready to enjoy now or can be refrigerated for up to about 4 hours until ready to serve.

Variations

Try this dessert with a lime or an orange cream instead of lemon by substituting equal parts juice and zest of your desired fruit. Feel free to use fresh strawberries, blackberries or blueberries instead of the raspberries.

Recipe and photo by Monica Glass

This week I’m all alone in my office thinking about grilling even though there’s 4 inches of snow on the grill. Weber grill’s customer service is some of the best! I also muse on energy bars and corned beef sandwiches. We take a look at some blogs like David Lebowitz’s from Paris. Thanks for listening and we’ll see you next week.

You can make this dish with either of the sauces or both for a nice visual and taste bud treat. We used free-range veal here, as the cook in charge (in this case our talented photographer Kelly Cline) is convinced it has more flavor while remaining succulent. You can also substitute chicken breast in this recipe.

Serves 4

Ingredients

For the roulade:
1-lb. veal cutlet (ask the butcher to cut it about 5/8″ thick from a whole top round)
Two pinches sea salt, finely ground
3 Leek Leaves, opened with the green tops cut off, softened in warm salt water
1 cup Wild Rice with Leeks and Portabello Mushrooms (recipe below)
2 tablespoons melted butter
½ cup fresh chervil, finely chopped

For the sauces:
Savory Chocolate Gravy (recipe below)
Creamy Leek Sauce (recipe below)

Preparation

For the leeks:
Soak leeks in a water bath to remove the dirt and carefully remove. Place them into a warm salt water bath to soften.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

For the veal:
Pound the veal cutlet until it is a thin rectangle (about 5″x10″), being careful not to pierce any holes in it with your mallet (or the filling will spill out). Lay the pounded cutlet on a large piece of parchment (or wax) paper to ease in the rolling process. Lay the cutlet down on the paper and season it with a pinch of finely ground sea salt.

[Chef’s Note: If you do not have a kitchen mallet, you can also use a heavy pan or rolling pin to pound out the veal cutlet.]

Remove the leeks from the bath and lay them slightly left of center of the cutlet, parallel to the long sides. Spoon and spread the rice mixture evenly over the leek sheets.

Carefully roll the veal cutlet and stuffing, using the parchment paper to help keep the shape of the roll. Tie it with kitchen twine at ½-inch intervals to keep the roulade’s shape while it cooks. Brush the outside with melted butter and roll the roulade in the chopped chervil.

Place the meat in baking dish, cover loosely with aluminum foil and place it in the oven for approximately 30 minutes, or until it reaches 150 degrees F. Remove it from the oven and let it rest for ten minutes before slicing and plating.

Service

Spoon some of the leftover rice in the center of each plate. Place 1-inch slices of roulade on top of the rice (with the filling facing up) and dress with the sauces, one on each side.

Wild Rice with Leeks and Portabello Mushrooms

Ingredients
2 cups wild grain rice cooked in beef broth
1 portabello mushroom, gills and stem removed, finely chopped
1/8 cup leek, whites only, finely chopped
1 tablespoon butter
freshly ground white pepper

Preparation
Heat butter in a small sauté pan. Add leeks and mushrooms and sauté until they release their aroma and juices, and the leeks are just beginning to turn clear. Season with a pepper to taste and add the mixture to the wild rice.

Creamy Leek Sauce

Ingredients
1/2 cup leeks, chopped and cooked until soft in 1/2 cup chicken broth
1/2 cup white wine
1 cup chicken broth
1 tablespoon butter
1/4 cup heavy cream

Preparation
Cook the leeks and process in a blender with leftover broth until smooth. (Be careful to let it cool slightly before blending to prevent an explosion of heat.) Strain mixture through a cheesecloth and set aside.

Place wine and chicken broth in a medium sauce pan. Using a very low flame, reduce the sauce to ¼ its volume, careful not to scorch the sauce. Add the butter and strained leek juice to the reduced mixture and remove from heat. Fold in the cream to prevent curdling.

Savory Chocolate Gravy

Ingredients
2 cups beef broth
2 cups red wine (we used Merlot here)
1/8 cup currants
4 kumquats, finely chopped
2 tablespoons unsweetened chocolate, grated
1 tablespoon butter

½ teaspoon butter
½ teaspoon flour

Preparation

Combine wine and beef broth in a medium sauce pan and reduce by ½. Add currants, kumquats, chocolate, and butter, whisking lightly to blend.

Blend the remaining butter and flour together and add into sauce for thickening. Cook several minutes to allow flour taste to cook off.

Recipe and photo by Kelly Cline

This is an unusual combination of sweet flavors with spicy, hot sensations. Traditionally, cuisines from temperate regions of the world, as such as Asia, Latin America, the Caribbean, Africa and the Mediterranean have always combined these ingredients. This time we are celebrating these aphrodisiac flavors in the form of truffles. Be sure to allow yourself two days to craft this recipe, as the truffles need to sit overnight in the refrigerator.

Makes 50 truffles

Ingredients

For the spicy, semi-solid ganache:
1 lb ( 16 oz ) semi-sweet chocolate, chopped
1 teaspoon Thai Curry Paste for Desserts (recipe follows), or to taste
1-1/2 cups heavy cream

Cocoa powder for dusting (optional)
or
Toasted coconut flakes (optional)

Preparation

Place chopped chocolate in food processor and pulse until pea-size. Bring heavy cream to boiling point and mix in the curry paste for desserts. Stir to combine. Remove from heat, cover and infuse no more than 3 hours. Strain through a very fine sieve and re-heat to a boiling point.

Pour the chocolate mix into the tube of a running food processor. Process until mixture becomes smooth. Transfer into a clean bowl and let set overnight, covered, in the refrigerator.

Pipe onto a parchment lined cookie sheet and freeze overnight.

Pre-coat truffles with thin layer of tempered chocolate (see Chef’s Note below) and dust with cocoa powder, or toss in toasted coconut flakes.

[Chef’s Note: Chocolate is tempered when its temperature is between 84° and 88° F (29° and 31° C). One of the easiest ways to achieve this point is to place the chocolate in the microwave for 30 seconds at a time until the chocolate is melted; but be especially careful not to over do it. You may see lumps, but they will be dissolved with the residual heat of the chocolate. To speed this process up, you can use an immersion blender or a whisk. When the chocolate begins to set, scrape the sides of the bowl and mix in. It is very important to have your food thermometer on hand to verify when the mixture reaches ideal temperature.]

Thai curry paste recipe follows.

Thai Curry Paste for Desserts

Makes ½ cup

Ingredients

1 stalk lemongrass, finely sliced (use only the bottom 6” of the stalk)
1 teaspoon lime zest, preferably kaffir lime
1-2 dried Thai bird chiles, seeds removed
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 cardamom pods, husked
1-1/4 teaspoons turmeric
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1-1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds
1 tablespoon fresh galangal or ginger root, minced (see Chef’s Note)
1 tablespoon coconut milk (optional)

Preparation

Toast cumin, coriander, cardamom and cinnamon in a skillet over medium heat for 3-4 minutes. Do not leave unattended, and shake the pan often to prevent burning. Remove from heat, cool.

If making in a mortar and pestle, pound all the ingredients into a smooth paste. If making in a blender or food processor, blend everything into a smooth paste. Transfer to a small container and keep refrigerated or frozen.

[Chef’s Note: This paste will keep for up to two weeks refrigerated and can be frozen in one-teaspoon quantities in an ice cube tray. To grind the ingredients use either a mortar and pestle, a blender, coffee grinder, or spice mill. Remember that the number of chiles is up to you; if you findthe paste too hot, simply reduce the number of chiles used.

Galanga, sometimes called “galangal,” is known as “kah” in Thailand and is used even more widely than fresh ginger. Use whole pieces of dried galangal and reconstitute them by soaking them in water. Powdered “kah” has very little flavor. Fresh ginger can be used as a substitute for kah.]
Recipe and photo by Melissa De Leon Douglass

Originally Posted January 2006

An adaptation of Dorie Greenspan’s Chocolate-Crunched Caramel Tart from her newest book Baking: From My Home to Yours, the luscious combination of chocolate, caramel and port offers a burst of flavors that delicately melt on your tongue. A silky port ganache conceals a layer of creamy, yet crunchy walnut caramel for a delightful contrast. Rather than use Dorie’s dough, we opted for a chocolate crust to magnify the chocolate intensity. The recipe can be prepared as one large tart, but we prefer the adorable charm of individual tarts. We also recommend serving at room temperature for the most luxurious texture, and within a day or two of being made.

Makes one 9 inch tart or one dozen 3 inch tartlets

Ingredients

For the tart dough:
½ cup unsalted butter, room temperature
½ cup powdered sugar
1 egg yolk
1½ cups flour
¼ cup unsweetened cocoa powder
Pinch salt

For the walnut caramel:
1 cup sugar
¼ cup water
2 tablespoons light corn syrup
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
½ cup heavy cream, warmed
Pinch salt
1 cup walnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped

For the port ganache:
8 ounces bittersweet chocolate (60-72%)
1 cup heavy cream
¼ cup light corn syrup
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
Pinch salt
¼ cup ruby port

Equipment

Stand Mixer
Rolling Pin
Silpat Mat
Tart Molds – either (1) 9-inch pan or (12) 3-inch molds

Preparation

Prepare the tart dough:
Cream the butter and powdered sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment until combined. Add the egg yolk and vanilla and beat until smooth. Add the flour, cocoa powder and salt, and mix on low speed until just combined, being careful not to overmix the dough. Gather the dough into a ball and form a flat disk onto a sheet of plastic wrap. Wrap and chill until firm, at least 1 hour, or up to 3 days.

[Chef’s Note: Allowing the freshly made dough to relax and chill before rolling out will ensure easier rolling, as the dough will not be as elastic and stretchy.]

Preheat the oven to 325 F. Roll the dough into a 12×18 inch rectangle or 12 inch circle (depending upon your tart pan shape), about 1/8 inch thick, on a lightly floured surface. If making one large tart, carefully roll the dough around the rolling pin and transfer to the pan. Press the dough into the pan, making sure to press all the way to the edges and up the sides, and then trim away any excess dough. If making individual tarts, cut out 12 rounds using a 4 inch round cutter and press them into the molds. Chill the tart shells for an hour, or up to 3 days.

[Chef’s Note: Chilling the shells at this point prevents the dough from tightening and shrinking while baking. If you’ve ever baked a tart or pie shell and had it shrink to lose half of the height, chances are your dough was not well chilled before baking.]

Line the large tart shell with foil or parchment paper and fill with dried beans, rice or pie weights to prevent the center from puffing up. You do not need to do this if you are making the smaller shells. Bake the larger shell for 15 minutes (smaller for 10 minutes), remove the foil and weights and bake for another 5-7 minutes to brown and set the center. Cool completely.

Prepare the walnut caramel:
Place the sugar, water and corn syrup in a large saucepan. Brush down the sides of the pan with water to remove any sugar granules and prevent crystallization. Cook over medium high heat, swirling the pan occasionally, until it turns an amber caramel, about 7 minutes. Turn off the heat and carefully whisk in the butter, then the heavy cream and salt until smooth. Stand back and use extreme caution because the mixture will bubble up and steam. Stir in the walnuts. Remove from heat and allow the caramel to cool slightly. While still warm, pour the caramel into the tart shell (or shells) and let cool until set, about 1 hour.

Prepare the port ganache:
Combine the heavy cream and corn syrup in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Place the chocolate in a separate bowl, and pour the hot cream over the chocolate and let sit for a few minutes to melt. Whisk the chocolate until smooth, then add the butter and salt and continue to whisk until entirely melted and incorporated. Add the port and whisk until emulsified and completely smooth.

Pour the ganache over the caramel while still warm and fluid, and let set at room temperature for 2-4 hours before serving.

Service

Each component can be made up to 3 days in advance, but the tarts should be assembled only 1 day in advance or the day of service to maintain freshness and crispness in the shell. Serve at room temperature for best consistency and taste.
Recipe and photo by Monica Glass

This week, Chef Wook and I look at the new American Culinary Federation predictions for trends in 2012. It focuses on children’s food in restaurants and in keeping it local at all costs. We discuss our takes on what we think are the trends for 2012 as well. Thanks for listening and we’ll see you next week.

Sweet dark cherries simmered in ruby port wine with a hint of star anise and cinnamon is the ideal topping for a perfect ending dessert. Serve over ice cream, as a filling for éclairs, or a spread for cheesecake.

4 servings

Ingredients

1 cup ruby port
¾ cup sugar
1 lb fresh or frozen pitted cherries
1 cinnamon stick
¼ teaspoon ground star anise
5 teaspoons cornstarch
5 teaspoons water
1 teaspoon vanilla

Equipment

Small saucepan, cherry pitter (or paring knife), plastic gloves, plastic cutting board

Preparation

Prepare the cherries:
Pit the cherries using a cherry pitter or paring knife. To use a paring knife, cut around the circumference of the cherry, pull the halves apart and remove pit.

[Chef’s note: Cherry juice will stain. Use care when pitting the cherries by using plastic gloves, cutting boards and frequently wiping up juice spills on your counter.]

Make the sauce:
Combine the port wine and sugar in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the cherries, cinnamon stick and star anise and simmer for 5–10 minutes until the mixture reduces and starts to become syrupy.

[Chef’s note: If using frozen cherries, you might need to simmer a bit longer to defrost the cherries and reduce the resulting water.]

Mix the cornstarch and water together to make a slurry, stirring until completely dissolved. Add the cornstarch slurry to the sauce and bring to boil. Reduce the heat, and continue to simmer until the mixture is thick and shiny. Remove from the heat and cool completely. Cover and chill until ready to serve.

Service

Serve over your favorite ice cream or creamy rice pudding. The sauce can also be spread over cheesecake.

Variations

For a great homemade Cherries Jubilee Ice Cream, bring a quart of good-quality vanilla bean ice cream to room temperature, mix the Cherry Port Sauce with the ice cream and place back into a freezer-safe container. Freeze 24 hours, then serve.

Recipe and photo by Lia Soscia

What better way to have your drink than to eat it for dessert? And with a wiggle this seductive, you can’t resist this pear panna cotta: Cool and creamy, soft and silky, the pear panna cotta is wonderfully delicate, and the covering of port gelée is the perfect flavor accent, intensifying the refreshing dessert. The beauty of panna cotta lies in its ease of preparation and the pure, simple flavor of cream. Since there are so few ingredients, it is important to only use the best and purest.

10-12 servings

Ingredients

For the pear panna cotta:
3 pears (enough to make 1 ½ cups purée)
1 package unflavored gelatin (.25 oz)
2 tablespoons cold water
1 ½ cups heavy cream
1 cup milk
¼ cup sugar
1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped
1 cinnamon stick
A pinch of salt

For the port gelée:
2 cups ruby port
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2/3 cup sugar
2 teaspoons gelatin
1 ½ tablespoons cold water

For the reduced port sauce (optional):
1 cup ruby port
1 teaspoon sugar

Equipment

Handheld immersion blender or food processor
Fine mesh sieve
Molds or ramekins

Preparation

Prepare the pear panna cotta:
Peel and chop the pears. Place in a small saucepan with a few tablespoons of water and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook until the fruit is tender, about 7-10 minutes, and then allow to cool. Using a handheld immersion blender or a food processor, purée the pears until smooth. Pass through a fine mesh sieve and reserve the purée for the panna cotta.

Place the water in a small dish and sprinkle the gelatin over it. Let rest for 5 minutes, until the gelatin is dissolved and softened. Combine the heavy cream, milk, pear purée, sugar, vanilla seeds and bean, cinnamon stick and salt in a medium saucepan. Heat to a simmer and allow to steep for 5 minutes. Add the gelatin mixture to the hot cream, stirring until the gelatin dissolves, and then strain through a fine mesh sieve into a large measuring cup with a spout. Divide among ramekins (see Variations for more on ramekins) and refrigerate until chilled and set.

Prepare the port gelée:
Place the water in a small dish and sprinkle the gelatin over it. Let it rest for 5 minutes, until the gelatin is dissolved and softened. Bring the port, lemon juice and sugar to a simmer in a small saucepan and continue to simmer for another 3 minutes until just slightly reduced. Remove from the heat and add the softened gelatin to the warm mixture, whisking until the gelatin dissolves. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and allow to cool to room temperature. Gently pour it over the panna cotta in the ramekins (or see Variations for more molding ideas). Refrigerate until chilled and set.

Prepare the port sauce:
Bring the port and the sugar to a low simmer over medium-low heat in a small saucepan and continue to simmer until reduced by half, about 7 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature.

Service

To unmold the panna cotta, dip the ramekin or mold into warm water for 5 seconds to release it. Be careful not to have the water too hot or keep it under the water for too long, or the panna cotta may melt. Carefully loosen the edges and gently wiggle the panna cotta out of the mold.

Pour the port sauce into a squeeze bottle to decorate the plates with dots of sauce, or using a paint brush, paint a line of sauce across the plates. Carefully transfer one unmolded panna cotta to each plate. Serve and enjoy!

[Chef’s Note: It’s a good idea to prepare this dessert a day in advance, as you need to allow time for the gelatin to set.]

Variations

This recipe can be adapted for a variety of molds/ramekins and styles. Feel free to layer the panna cotta and gelée by pouring a small amount of panna cotta into the mold and refrigerating until set (about 1 hour), then pouring an equal amount of gelée and refrigerating until set, continuing to repeat the layers. Or to make a panna cotta with a single layer of gelée on top, first pour the gelée into the bottom of the mold, refrigerate until set, and then pour a larger amount of the panna cotta on top of the gelée. Let set and unmold turning upside down so the panna cotta is on the bottom and the gelée is on top. Or pour the panna cotta into a clear glass, let set, and then pour a thin layer of the gelée on top of the panna cotta for an attractive parfait which you can serve directly.

Recipe and photo by Monica Glass

This dish is deceptively simple, and is a great technique for preparing duck breast with any kind of sauce. We think the port pairs so well with the richness of the duck, and who can resist a dish with figs? Serve over a disc of polenta pan-fried in a little hazelnut oil and a simple salad of mixed greens for an exquisite meal.

4 servings

Ingredients

4 6-8 ounce boneless duck breasts, skin intact (or 2 larger duck breasts, 8 ounces per person)
Sea salt and freshly ground white peppercorn, to taste

For the port demi-glace:
6 fresh figs, halved (or dried if out of season)
1 teaspoon of whole white peppercorns
½ teaspoon finely minced chervil (or parsley)
1 cup ruby port

Equipment

Stainless steel sauté pan

Preparation

Sear the duck breasts:
Score the skin of the duck breasts lightly in a diamond pattern, being careful not to cut all the way through to the flesh. Sprinkle generously with flakes of sea salt and a few grinds of white peppercorn on the skin side. Heat a large stainless steel sauté pan over medium-high heat until it’s very hot. Lay the duck breasts in the dry pan skin side down, searing until the skin is brown and crispy. When ready, the fat will begin to render from the duck and it will release itself from the pan. Turn the breasts over and sear on the other side until the breasts are cooked to your taste. For medium-rare, leave on the second side for 5-7 minutes. Remove them from the pan and set aside covered with tinfoil while preparing the sauce.

[Chef’s Note: Scoring the duck breasts allows the fat to render out and develop a crispy, caramelized skin. If the sauté pan is not large enough to comfortably fit all the duck breasts at once, use two sauté pans. The duck breasts should register 155-160° F on a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat. Be sure to insert the thermometer between the skin and flesh so as not to pierce the skin. The duck will continue to cook while resting, so be careful not to overcook.]

Prepare the port demi-glace:
While the sauté pan is still hot, add the port, whole white peppercorns, and chervil or parsley to the rendered duck fat and deglaze the pan. Using a whisk, scrape the browned bits off the bottom of the pan, and continue to whisk until the mixture is reduced and emulsified. The sauce is ready when reduced to a glaze. Add the halved fresh figs and gently stir until heated through.

[Chef’s Note: if you are using dried figs, reconstitute them by adding them to the port before it begins to reduce.]

Service
Serve with a green salad and polenta fried in hazelnut oil. Place the polenta on the plate, and lay one duck breast over it, then sauce with the port glaze, adding one or two fig halves to each serving.
Recipe and photo by Kelly Cline

Did you have one (or ten) too many cookies last month? We know how you feel. Join us and make one soup every day this week for a post-holiday detox.

This recipe is exceedingly simple: you can prepare it in advance, and serve it as the first course of a dinner party.  The flavor profile will be perfect for stimulating the appetite for the rest of a late Spring meal.  The advantage of this recipe is that it can be served year-round, either warm in the cold months, or chilled in the Spring or Summer. It also freezes well, so you can even keep it for those cold Winter nights! Note: This recipe appears in our Gilded Fork: Entertaining at Home cookbook.

4 servings

Ingredients

1 medium onion, diced
½ teaspoon olive oil
1 tablespoon maple syrup
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon ginger root, grated
1 cup carrot, peeled and chopped
3 cups vegetable stock
1 small sweet potato, peeled and diced
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper
¼ teaspoon thyme, dried
¼ teaspoon garlic clove, minced

Equipment
Heavy-bottomed medium saucepan
Food processor or immersion blender

Preparation

Heat a deep saucepan or soup pot over medium heat and add the olive oil. Sauté the diced onion until it becomes translucent, about 5-8 minutes. You do not want to caramelize the onion, just sweat it.

Add the maple syrup, honey and ginger to the pot, and stir thoroughly until combined. Continue to cook until the onions begin to turn a lovely shade of golden brown, about 10 minutes longer. Add all the remaining ingredients, stir to combine. Cover and simmer for another 10 minutes until the carrots are soft.

Cool slightly, then purée. Serve warm or chilled.

Recipe by Mark Tafoya
Photo by Ken Stoeffler

This week, Chef Wook and I look at the new American Culinary Federation predictions for trends in 2012. It focuses on children’s food in restaurants and in keeping it local at all costs. We discuss our takes on what we think are the trends for 2012 as well. Thanks for listening and we’ll see you next week.

The flavors and fragrances of this champagne are elegant and timeless, with a generous hint of spice, echoing the flavors of a mulled wine. The spiced syrup can be made well in advance, and its flavors will intensify as it rests.

Yields enough syrup for one bottle of champagne or sparkling wine

Ingredients

4 cups apple or white grape juice
1 teaspoon whole cloves, crushed
1 teaspoon crystallized ginger, chopped
½ teaspoon allspice berries, crushed
2 tablespoons orange zest, pith completely removed
¼ of one whole vanilla bean, left intact

1 bottle of dry champagne or sparkling wine
4×4” square of cheesecloth
Kitchen twine

Preparation

Prepare the spice sachet:
Place all of the spices, zest and vanilla bean segment into a sachet made from a double thickness of standard cheesecloth.  Tie it off with kitchen twine.

Prepare the spiced syrup:
In a small sauce pan, heat 4 cups of either the apple or white grape juice over medium-high heat until just beginning to boil.  Place the sachet into the juice, reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until reduced by about half (20-30 minutes).  Remove from heat and allow to cool for 15 minutes.  Remove the sachet, squeezing all the juice from the bundle.  Pour the syrup through a fine mesh sieve into a clean glass container.  Allow to completely cool.  Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.  The syrup will become thicker as it cools.

Service

To serve, add 1 part spiced syrup to 2 parts champagne or sparkling wine.

[Chef’s Note: If you don’t want to fuss with a sachet, simply toss all of the mulling spices into the pan with the juice and proceed with the recipe.  When you strain the syrup, strain it through cheesecloth or a coffee filter to catch the fine sediment of the spices.

When selecting your champagne or sparkling wine, remember that there is a bit of sweet to the spiced syrup.  If you want a dry, elegant cocktail we recommend using a Brut champagne or sparkling wine.  If you intend to use this recipe as an aperitif or as an after-dinner toast, a sweeter, extra-dry champagne may be more to your liking.

Recipe and photo by Kelly Cline

We are of two minds when it comes to New Year’s Eve: We either want to be dressed to the nines at a fabulous ballroom-esque gala, or gathered with friends in a casual setting at home. This year we’re opting for the latter, so we’ve put together a menu perfect for a casually elegant night in. For further tips, we’ve crafted test kitchen dossiers on both Cocktails and Hors d’Oeuvres for this month, so take all the notes you need to. Don’t forget that the rest of our Entertaining section has further tips on decor and the trimmings. Now get that celebration started, and say adieu to another year!

Cocktails, finger foods and dessert. Is there any better way to ring in the New Year?

COCKTAILS

Provocachic™ Cosmopolitan
Lemongrass Martini
Love Potion: Family Edition
Pomegranate Champagne Cocktail

LIGHT HORS D’OEUVRES (2 to 3 servings per person)

Minted Pea Puree Canapes in Puff Pastry Vol au Vents
Dilled Crab Salad on Artichoke Bottoms
Celeriac Prosciutto Rolls with Lemongrass Vinaigrette
Cucumber Cups with Caviar and Champagne Onions

HEAVY HORS D’OEUVRES (2 to 3 servings per person)

Thyme Focaccia with Kalamata Mascarpone Spread
Grilled Lemongrass Shrimp with Sweet Chile Dipping Sauce
Spicy Beef or Chicken Satay
Cheese Board

DESSERTS

Amaretto Tiramisu
Chilly Drunken Orange “Creamsicle”
Flan de Champagne (Champagne Flan)

SETUP NOTES (from our Entertaining section)

One of the most impactful ways to make a statement to your guests is by presenting your feast in a sumptuous display. Depending on the size of your space, you have several options: We suggest setting up a main table, and if space allows, several side tables, which will enable you to disperse the food setup around the room so all your guests do not gather (and clog) one area. If your space is smaller, you may not be able to avoid this, in which case we recommend staying with a single table setup.

For the main table, you want to craft an array of goodies that appeals to the eye, and the best way to achieve this effect is to create a series of levels on the table for your various dishes and platters. This creative effort instantly transforms any menu into a formidable display, and creates a variety of eye candy for the guests who approach.

Find some sturdy elements you can use to build levels on which to place serving dishes. We have used upside-down pots, bowls, boxes, and bricks in our displays. All of these will be covered with a cloth, so it doesn’t matter how attractive they are — they just need to provide a solid foundation. Cover them with a large cloth, then use smaller cloths bunched around the levels to make an attractive nest. If you are particularly creative, you can accent the table with decorative items like branches, dried flowers or candles, provided their scents and/or leaves do not interfere with the food.

We suggest keeping all elements requiring chafing dishes on the main table, as you will more easily be able to monitor them. We also recommend staying with a flat surface for side or accent tables, as they are easily bumped. You can use these for crudités, breads, cheeses, or cold hors d’oeuvres.

BAR SETUP NOTES (from our Cocktail Party dossier)

This is the critical component. For a cocktail party, you will need to decide whether there will be a bartender or self-serve setup. If it is the former, and the barman is a professional, he will likely have a repertoire he prefers to serve. For our purposes here, however, we will assume a self-serve setup.

At its most basic, your bar should include the following items:

Liquors
Gin
Vodka
Rum
Whiskey (at least Bourbon and Scotch)
Vermouth
Tequila (Reposado)

Accompaniments/Mixers
Tonic water
Club soda
Coke
7-Up
Sour mix
Common fruit juices – fresh, or those not from concentrates (i.e. lime, cranberry, grapefruit, etc.)
Lime wedges
Lemon wedges
Cocktail olives (you may want to keep the juice in a small glass container for dirty martinis)
Ice (app. 1 pound per guest per hour (for about 3 servings)

[Mixologist's Notes: Though troublesome, buying a bunch of fun ice molds and making your own ice with mineral water would also be a nice touch. Also, carbonated mixers in cans are easier to chill and manage.]

Accessories
Wine glasses (champagne, red, white)
Cocktail glasses
Cocktail shaker(s)
Stirrers
Cocktail napkins

[Mixologist's Note: You may also wish to consider disposable plasticware shaped just like the cocktail and wine glassware and/or champagne flutes.]

For those who might prefer wine to cocktails, it is best to include an assortment of red, white, and sparkling wines (see Alder’s favorite $10 wines for some suggestions).

MISE EN PLACE

For those curious about the meaning of mise en place, it is a French culinary term for “set in place.” If you have ever watched a cooking show, or been inside a restaurant kitchen, you will notice that next to the cooking area, things are set up just so. Ingredients, sauces and critical elements are ready to be used, whether pre-cooked, pre-chopped, or ready as a garnish. This kind of organized setup enables a cook to focus on the actual act of cooking itself without distraction. Our intention with this section is to use the same approach at home, enabling you to host your own special occasions with flair.

Cocktail party: A gathering held to enable forty people to talk about themselves at the same time. The man who remains after the liquor is gone is the host.
- Fred Allen

Origin
The origin of the term “cocktail” itself is rife with rumor and speculation, so we’ll leave that to the drink historians. We are far more concerned with putting the cocktail into practice. However, for reference, the term was included in the magazine The Balance in May 1806: “Cocktail is a stimulating liquor, composed of spirits of any kind, sugar, water, and bitters – it is vulgarly called bittered sling and is supposed to be an excellent electioneering potion.”

Description
Ah, the cocktail. It is the introduction to “happy hour,” the ice-breaker, the way to finish a long day and start a magnificent evening. Cocktails can be as simple as scotch on the rocks or as complex as one’s imagination will allow, so it is the one type of beverage that allows for utter creativity.

Some cocktails have fallen strictly under the umbrella of “girlie,” i.e. the Cosmopolitan, sweet martinis (chocolate et. al.) and fruit-laced concoctions, while others are very “masculine.” Think of the dry martini, gin and tonics or any kind of strong spirit. We tend to stay away from lines of gender demarcation and bring all varieties of cocktails together for our favorite type of gathering: the cocktail party.

The Cocktail Party
Here’s where we get to the good stuff. Cocktails are so popular that entire parties have been crafted around them, and we are partial to such gatherings this time of year. Cocktail parties are easiest on the schedule of the holiday cook; they do not require the critical timing of service or individual plating, and most dishes can be made in advance. We thus prefer to set up a bar, put out some hors d’oeuvres and let our guests help themselves to the bounty.

If your party is scheduled to take place around the dinner hour, understand that people will probably arrive hungry for dinner. This doesn’t mean you need to feed them dinner, of course, but you should be prepared to serve hors d’oeuvres that are substantial enough to get them through the next couple of hours. There is nothing worse than leaving a party with a hunger pain.

We have an entire collection of Appetizers to fuel your inspiration, and those can be served along with the crudités and/or cheese boards. Use your imagination and have fun with the creative process.

You can estimate recipe quantities by assuming 4 portions per person for light dishes and 3 portions for heartier fare, provided you also serve other nibbles like crudités and a cheese board. (There really is no reason why you shouldn’t, as they are a snap to put together.) However, if you are truly reluctant to do so, double the portions of hors d’oeuvres per person to be safe. Also, if you have vegetarian guests, be sure to include enough portions to compensate for the other dishes they will not be eating, and/or add more to the crudités and cheese board.

The flow of your cocktail party menu should be as follows:

Crudités/Light Hors d’Oeuvres
Hearty Hors d’Oeuvres
Cheese Board/Dessert Items

Here is an example:

Light hors d’oeuvres:
Crudités with Aoili Garni
Smoked Trout with Horseradish Crème Fraîche on Toast Points
Eggs with Caviar and Salmon Rosettes

Hearty hors d’oeuvres:
Lobster Bisque Shooters
Mini Savory Bites
Grilled Lemongrass Shrimp
Grilled Beef with Spicy Satay Dip
Cheese Board (optional)

Dessert items:
Cheese Board
and/or
Thai Curry Truffles
Olive Oil Brownies with Toasted Walnuts
Pecan Shortbread
Lavender Pound Cake with Lemon Glaze

The flow of dishes above accounts for two important considerations: (1) early guests have something to nibble until the bulk of the crowd arrives; and (2) hot food can be presented when you have the maximum crowd there, so it can be enjoyed at its peak of temperature and freshness.

We recommend serving the light hors d’oeuvres for the first 20-30 minutes, as most people tend to be “fashionably” late — this is a judgment call you will have to make according to the size of the crowd at that time.

In case you have not yet perused our Entertaining section, our article The Magic of Ambience is full of tips and tricks to set the right mood for your gathering, including lighting, music and table displays.

Bar Setup
This is the critical component. For a cocktail party, you will need to decide whether there will be a bartender or self-serve setup. If it is the former, and the barman is a professional, he will likely have a repertoire he prefers to serve. For our purposes here, however, we will assume a self-serve setup.

At its most basic, your bar should include the following items:

Liquors
Gin
Vodka
Rum
Whiskey (at least Bourbon and Scotch)
Vermouth
Tequila (Reposado)

Accompaniments/Mixers
Tonic water
Club soda
Coke
7-Up
Sour mix
Common fruit juices – fresh, or those not from concentrates (i.e. lime, cranberry, grapefruit, etc.)
Lime wedges
Lemon wedges
Cocktail olives (you may want to keep the juice in a small glass container for dirty martinis)
Ice (app. 1 pound per guest per hour (for about 3 servings)

[Mixologist's Notes: Though troublesome, buying a bunch of fun ice molds and making your own ice with mineral water would also be a nice touch. Also, carbonated mixers in cans are easier to chill and manage.]

Accessories
Wine glasses (champagne, red, white)
Cocktail glasses
Cocktail shaker(s)
Stirrers
Cocktail napkins

[Mixologist's Note: You may also wish to consider disposable plasticware shaped just like the cocktail and wine glassware and/or champagne flutes.]

For those who might prefer wine to cocktails, it is best to include an assortment of red, white, and sparkling wines (see Alder’s favorite $10 wines for some suggestions).

Alternative Approaches

Pre-mixes
An alternative to the basic setup suggested above would be to offer about five of the most popular types of cocktails in your city, and simply set up the bar according to that (or if you are serving a crowd of close friends, you might already know which types they prefer.)

In this instance, the alcoholic components could be premixed in a bottle, while the rest of the ingredients could be prepared in another (except for carbonated items). This way, the alcoholic pre-mixes that are not consumed could be used for another occasion, as the more perishable non-alcoholic portions are mixed separately.

For example, in our Lychee Martini recipe, each serving requires about 1¾ ounces of the alcoholic pre-mix (lychee liqueur, vanilla flavored vodka and Cointreau), and about 2 ounces of the non-alcoholic pre-mix (lychee brine blended with fresh lychees). For a self-serve bar, label each bottle with simple instructions and the amount required per serving, and color-code those that are used for the same recipe.

3-Course Cocktails
Another possibility to explore is to match the cocktails with the flow of the food. Just like aperitifs are traditionally used as liquid appetizers, one might explore refreshing and/or tart cocktail recipes in the first course (i.e. Lychee Martini, Mojito, Cosmopolitan), followed by stronger & heavier styles (i.e. Pina Colada, Godmother, Manhattan).

For the first course cocktail, start experimenting with tart ingredients such as raspberries, pomegranate or cranberries, and refreshing items such as mint, grapefruit, lemongrass and lychee.

The third course would be great with champagne-based cocktails (i.e. Clove Spiced Champagne, Bellini) with sharp, distinctive notes to add a celebratory note, perhaps for a Christmas or New Year’s countdown toast.

Home-made
If you have the time and are feeling creative, you can even prepare your own flavored vodkas, i.e. Granny Smith apple and cinnamon. From these bases, you could have a wild adventure of exotic martinis.

Recipes
Our Cocktails section has a full listing of recipes, including non-alcoholic (virgin) options, so go and explore!

Note: This article is a companion to our Gilded Fork: Entertaining at Home cookbook. With 13 dinner party menus, and the tips you’ll find in this and our other entertaining articles, we’ve done a lot of the work for you. Sally forth!

There is a certain art to being a good host, and it is one that is cultivated after what is likely trial-by-fire. You have learned that even the largest catastrophes can be met with a sense of humor, flexibility, and a little creative flair.

But how do you get to that happy place? The answer is not to be found in the bottom of a martini glass (ok, not always). Instead, it is to be found in planning well, being able to think on your feet, and putting the comfort of your guests at the top of the priority list. Even if your recipes turn out quite differently from what you had planned, your guests will remember how delightful you were as a gracious host.

Remember: Elegant does not have to mean complicated. There is beauty inherent in doing things simply, but doing them well, and it doesn’t require lots of frill and fuss. To use a cooking analogy, if you create an ornate dish with mediocre ingredients, the results will still be, well, mediocre. A simpler dish with top-quality ingredients, however, will stay in the memories of your guests long after the plates have been cleared.

That is the entire premise of our Mise en Place section, where you can find elegant menus that are not overly fussy, but that evoke beautiful flavors and use the art of food styling to elevate your presentation. (In fact, that section was the predecessor to our cookbook, which has more meat to it.) Such little touches turn an ordinary dinner party into a memorable occasion, and when combined with ambiance and good company, you can’t go wrong.

What will keep you most calm during all of this, of course, is good planning, which is why we have created a list of tips that we use to plan, as well as some templates for your organization. (Yes, we really, really want you to use them.)

If you wish to become better versed in the rules of dining etiquette, we highly recommend the grande dame of such endeavors, Emily Post. Her Advice for Every Dining Occasion is invaluable for understanding what fork to use for which course, and how to handle such dilemmas as inebriated guests, etc. It is somewhat hard to find now, but if you can get your hands on a copy, save it forever.

Guest Lists

Clearly, this is a critical part of being a good host, as your guests can make or break an event. Does the crowd consist of a group of fun-loving friends, or is it perhaps a small group of serious colleagues from the office?

When we create a guest list for our own parties, we try to ensure it includes at least several people with wonderful personalities who can liven up the room, as well as assist in making sure no one is left sitting by him/herself.

Obviously there are times when you will not have much choice in selecting the attending crowd, as it may be a party specifically for colleagues or a certain social group. In said case, prepare for the Party Hound, the Wallflower, the Drama Queen, and the rest. If you know in advance how to handle these colorful personalities, you will be less stressed when confronted with their expected behavior.

It is best to give as much advance notice as possible, understanding that most people have schedules as full as yours. Your invitations should be in hand at least two weeks before the party to give people time to respond, but if this isn’t possible, don’t panic. Thankfully there is now the possibility of e-mailed invitations through sites like www.evite.com, so there is no worry about delays from sluggish postal systems. However, for guests who haven’t quite gotten the hang of the electronic age, or for those with a true sense of aesthetic appreciation, there is nothing quite like a handwritten invitation. We like Kate’s Paperie and Papyrus for unusual, luxurious invitations.

We always request an RSVP for our events with at least four days of advance notice, whether for a cocktail party or sit-down dinner, as there is really no other way to finalize how much food to prepare. You can always count on a few people to just show up, as well as others to be no-shows; this is inevitable, but if you are well-prepared, these “surprises” should not put a damper on the affair. If it makes you more comfortable, request a confirmation a full week in advance.

In the case of a sit-down, plated dinner party, it is absolutely essential that guests RSVP, as well as show up on time. The worst possible thing a guest can do is interrupt the flow of a plated meal.

The best way to avoid this scenario is to state clearly on the invitation:

Formal, yes, but you’ll be thankful. And if a guest does arrive late, seat him and have him begin with whatever course you are serving — it is not your obligation to go back and prepare anything he has missed.

Our Favorite Mantras

As we also stated in our Survival Guide, there are a few mantras we use when putting on our aprons to prepare a feast for guests. We suggest memorizing them.

• Remember to take deep breaths; freaking out never helped any situation, no matter what the
disaster.

• You are not attempting to reinvent the wheel. You are throwing a party.

• Think on your feet. There is always a solution, so get as creative as you need to. No one else
needs to know — they only see the final result.

• If you absolutely run out of time, or cannot find an ingredient, we will not send you to culinary
purgatory for purchasing pre-made items. Do try, however, to keep such items to pastries,
crudités, and more complicated dishes like terrines and pâtés.

• Do not pickle yourself with cocktails before attempting to cook. Not only will your palate be
deadened, but flames, knives, and alcohol are never a good mix. Trust us on that one.

• Repeat after us: “A little Type-A goes a long way.”

[This is our latest from the TasteBuds blog, where you can find lots of great information from us, Todd and Diane from White on Rice, and Sassy Radish Olga Massov.]

The question I get asked most often is “What wine do I serve with that?”

Unless you are an avid wine connoisseur or collector, it’s a question that can range from slightly intimidating to downright terrifying. However, I come bearing gifts that will transform that fear — and the need to know everything about wine — into something workable so you can serve your guests and enjoy yourself without the panic.

Here’s my secret: I have no idea what wine you should serve with that. And the good news is that I don’t need to, because there are simple-to-use resources built to help you navigate the wine conundrum with ease. Yes, there are some pairings I know from habit, and which reds vs. whites I prefer, but when I’m going for a killer match, I leave that to the experts.

First you want to start with your menu: What are you serving? From there you have something to work with — flavor profiles, dominant flavors and a price range.

From that point, there are three simple methods for creating wine pairings: (1) the hi-tech version; (2) the book version; and (3) the old-school version. Let’s see which works best for you.

The Hi-Tech Version

Apps

If you are a gadget geek, there are three stellar wine apps that will do the pairing work for you:

Hello Vino

Price: Free

Description:

Top-rated by NY Times, NPR, Mashable – Hello Vino will help you in the wine aisle – the free app gives you wine recommendations for meals, occasions, holidays, and by taste preference. NO SNOBS ALLOWED!

Pair It

Price: $4.99

Description:

Pair It! has over 20,000 unique and easy-to-follow pairing suggestions, recipes, and tips. The app was created by renowned wine pairing expert, chef and educator Bruce Riezenman from the Sonoma County Wine Country.

Natalie MacLean Wine Picks & Pairings

Price: Free

Award-winning wine writer Natalie MacLean is known for keeping wine simple, and I love that about her. Her top-rated mobile app (1 of 5 top food and wine apps from The New York Times, Globe & Mail and others) makes it easy for you to find pairings.

Description:

Named 1 of 5 top food and wine apps is the only wine app Apple chose for App Store Essentials in “Food & Wine” and “Date Night”.

Websites

If you don’t have a smart phone, there are some websites that have food and wine pairing widgets to help you:

Real Simple

True to form, this tool keeps things easy and straightforward. With a few clicks, you’ll have a list of varietals to choose from, which you can take to your wine store.

Pour

One of my favorite wine stores in NYC has created a matching tool set up exactly like their store: Start with a specific food, a cuisine or a wine, and they’ll help you match from there. In a few clicks you have wines to choose from for purchase, but you can just as easily take this list to your local wine store.

wine.com

As this is a site to purchase wines and have them shipped (a convenience I love whenever possible), you’ll need to enter your state of residence before using the tool. Choose your main ingredient and accompaniments and receive a list of various wines you can order. Again, you can simply take this list to your wine store.

The Book Version

If you want to do part of the work yourself, get a copy of Karen Page and Andrew Dornenberg’s What to Drink with What You Eat: The Definitive Guide to Pairing Food with Wine, Beer, Spirits, Coffee, Tea – Even Water – Based on Expert Advice from America’s Best Sommeliers.

Broken down by flavor components, this incredibly useful book will help you to see that if you’re serving x, wine y is probably a good match for that. It includes regions, varietals, and goes even beyond wine in case you want to serve the perfect…water.

The Old-School Version

If you are fortunate enough to have a knowledgeable local wine merchant, you can quite easily take your menu into the shop and ask for pairing help. I often employ this method, as a wine merchant has made his career of this very subject, and it is worth taking advantage of his knowledge. This leaves me to the food preparation, and saves time, headache, and worry.

Note: Be careful here. I once went in to get a bottle of wine when I was dressed to the nines with my Louis Vuitton bag, and the merchant escorted me right back to the “vault”, where the most expensive wines lived. I stopped him and explained I was looking for a more reasonable price range.

If there is not a wine merchant in your town, you can also try the wine section of higher-end supermarkets (depending upon your location, of course, as this is not always an option), where there will likely be someone to assist you. If you are comfortable doing the pairings yourself, or have one of the wine apps above, some bulk chains such as Costco or Beverages and More actually offer a decent selection of wines.

See how easy it can be? There are experts for a reason, so use their knowledge to your advantage and focus on what’s important: creating a great meal and enjoying it with the people you love.

Rich with caramel flavor, aroma and color, this moist and dense pound cake is accented with chestnuts. The nuttiness and perfume of the winter nut perfectly complements the deep caramel flavor. Here we use chestnuts in three forms — sweetened cream, flour and chestnut pieces — to blissfully savor their buttery sweet, yet savory flavor. Enjoyed solo or with whipped cream, this cake is definitely worthy of the finest festive spread for both Thanksgiving and the Yuletide season.

Serves 12

Ingredients

For the caramel sauce:
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup water
1/2 cup heavy cream

For the pound cake:
3/4 cup (6 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/4 cup sugar
caramel sauce (from above)
1/2 cup (150 grams) sweetened chestnut puree
4 eggs
1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1/4 cup chestnut flour, optional (can substitute all-purpose flour)
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup chestnuts (candied, fresh or canned), chopped (optional)

Equipment

8×4 inch loaf pan
Electric handheld or stand mixer
Medium sized non-reactive metal saucepan
Non-stick baking spray
Rubber spatula
Whisk

Preparation

For the caramel sauce:
Wet the sugar with the water in a medium saucepan and stir to dissolve. Place the pan over medium heat. Cook without stirring, swirling the pan occasionally, until the water evaporates and the sugar turns a deep amber color. In a separate pan or in the microwave, heat the cream. Remove the caramelized sugar from the heat and carefully whisk in the warmed cream. It will spatter and boil up, so it is best to stand back when adding the cream. Place back on the heat and whisk to remove any remaining lumps of sugar. Quickly pour into a clean glass or metal bowl to cool. Set aside to cool to room temperature.

For the pound cake:
Preheat the oven to 325 F. Spray an 8×4-inch loaf pan with non-stick baking spray. Sift the flours, baking powder and salt together. Set aside.

Using an electric mixer, cream the butter and sugar together on medium speed until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, until incorporated. Add the caramel sauce and the sweetened chestnut purée, beating to combine. Add the sifted dry ingredients and mix only until combined. Fold in the chopped chestnuts.

Pour the batter into the prepared loaf pan and tap gently on the counter to even out and settle the ingredients. Bake in the preheated oven for 45-50 minutes until golden and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool completely.

Variations

Soak the chestnuts in brandy or cognac overnight for a subtle boost of flavor.
Recipe and photo by Monica Glass

a test kitchen dossier

I have learned
To spell hors d’oeuvres,
Which still grates on
Some people’s n’oeuvres.
- Warren Knox

Origin
The French phrase hors d’oeuvre (often pluralized as hors d’oeuvres in English) literally means “outside of the work,” and originally referred to an outbuilding not incorporated into the architect’s main design of a house or building. The phrase eventually found its way into the culinary lexicon, meaning appetizers served apart from the main course of a dinner.

Description
Hors d’oeuvres can encompass a wide variety of foods, and range from casual finger foods to elegant nibbles. Their versatility makes them ideal for any kind of event, either as snacks taken at the cocktail hour prior to a seated meal, or as the main menu for a party where the guests won’t be seated. Tapas, dim sum, antipasti, antojitos and appetizers all can fit into the theme of hors d’oeuvres, leaving the menu open to your imagination.

Serving Hors d’Oeuvres
If you read our Cocktail dossier, you know that we prefer to go with hors d’oeuvres parties for the hectic holiday season, and it’s our favorite way to celebrate for New Year’s Eve. We’ve recapped our menu suggestions here so you can craft your menu with the right progression of light to heavy hors d’oeuvres for each “course,” as well as appropriate serving sizes.

If your party is scheduled to take place around the dinner hour, understand that people will probably arrive hungry for dinner. This doesn’t mean you need to feed them dinner, of course, but you should be prepared to serve hors d’oeuvres that are substantial enough to get them through the next couple of hours. There is nothing worse than leaving a party with a hunger pain.

We have an entire collection of recipes to fuel your inspiration (see the links at the end of this dossier), and those can be served along with the crudités and/or a cheese board. Use your imagination and have fun with the creative process.

You can estimate recipe quantities by assuming 4 portions per person for light dishes and 3 portions for heartier fare, provided you also serve other nibbles like crudités and a cheese board. (There really is no reason why you shouldn’t, as they are a snap to put together.) However, if you are truly reluctant to do so, double the portions of hors d’oeuvres per person to be safe. Also, if you have vegetarian guests, be sure to include enough portions to compensate for the other dishes they will not be eating, and/or add more to the crudités and cheese board.

The flow of your cocktail party menu should be as follows:

Crudités/Light Hors d’Oeuvres
Hearty Hors d’Oeuvres
Cheese Board/Dessert Items

Here is an example:

Light hors d’oeuvres:
Crudités with Aoili Garni
Smoked Trout with Horseradish Crème Fraîche on Toast Points
Eggs with Caviar and Salmon Rosettes

Hearty hors d’oeuvres:
Lobster Bisque Shooters
Mini Savory Bites
Grilled Lemongrass Shrimp
Grilled Beef with Spicy Satay Dip
Cheese Board (optional)

Dessert items:
Cheese Board
and/or
Thai Curry Truffles
Olive Oil Brownies with Toasted Walnuts
Pecan Shortbread
Lavender Pound Cake with Lemon Glaze

The flow of dishes above accounts for two important considerations: (1) early guests have something to nibble until the bulk of the crowd arrives; and (2) hot food can be presented when you have the maximum crowd there, so it can be enjoyed at its peak of temperature and freshness.

We recommend serving the light hors d’oeuvres for the first 20-30 minutes, as most people tend to be “fashionably” late — this is a judgment call you will have to make according to the size of the crowd at that time.

In case you have not yet perused our Entertaining section, our article The Magic of Ambience is full of tips and tricks to set the right mood for your gathering, including lighting, music and table displays.

Recipes

Food:
There are far too many to list here, so simply click through to our full recipe listing. Remember that many of these recipes can be featured as individual servings, so get creative!

Don’t forget to see our Cheese Course dossier for serving your selection of cheeses.

Drinks:
You can serve a variety of beverages for your gathering, so see our Cocktails, Anyone? dossier for your bar setup and our cocktail recipes for drinks. The following articles will also help you in the area of wines:

Champagne
Sparkling Wines
Wine Selections

To chase away that nip in the air, try warming your insides with this hot, chocolaty treat. Although the terms are often used interchangeably, note that there is a difference between hot cocoa and hot chocolate: Hot cocoa is typically just water or milk and cocoa powder, while, made from chocolate bars melted into cream, hot chocolate is a rich and decadent drink. Here is an intoxicating twist on our favorite winter warmer; flavored with two varieties of chestnuts and triple chocolate, this is a creamy, cozy sip — the kind of food you can cuddle up to (and we suspect that few adults would object to sneaking in a splash of brandy or cognac.)

Serves 4-6

Ingredients

For the hot chocolate:
3 cups milk
1 cup heavy cream or half-and-half
4 peeled chestnuts (fresh, canned or frozen may be used)
zest of 1/2 orange
1/2 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped
4 ounces milk chocolate
2 ounces bittersweet chocolate
2 ounces unsweetened chocolate
1/4 cup sweetened chestnut cream
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons brandy or cognac (optional), or to taste

For the chestnut whipped cream:
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons sweetened chestnut cream

Equipment

Handheld immersion blender
Handheld or standing electric mixer
Liquid measuring cup
Non-reactive metal saucepan
Rubber spatula
Whisk
Zester

Preparation

Prepare the hot chocolate:
Combine the milk, heavy cream, chestnuts, vanilla bean and orange zest in a heavy saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from heat and let steep for about 15 minutes, until the chestnuts start breaking down and become softer.

Remove the vanilla bean, and using a handheld immersion blender, purée and then strain the mixture through a fine mesh sieve. Return the liquid to the saucepan and bring back to a simmer over medium heat.

Meanwhile, place the chocolates in a large bowl. Pour the boiled liquid over the chocolate, let sit for one minute, and whisk to combine. Add salt and whisk in the chestnut purée and brandy or cognac, if desired. Purée with a handheld blender for a smoother texture.

Prepare the chestnut whipped cream:
Whip 1 cup heavy cream until stiff peaks form. Whip 2 tablespoons sweetened chestnut purée in an electric mixture until light. Using a rubber spatula, fold the whipped cream into the chestnut purée in three additions until combined.

[Chef’s Note: If you do not have a handheld blender, let the mixture cool slightly and purée in a blender.]

Service

Serve the hot chocolate in mugs topped with a dollop of whipped cream. The hot chocolate can be made ahead, if desired. Cool completely and refrigerate. When ready to serve, heat it gently in a saucepan over low heat or in intervals in the microwave.

Variations

You can substitute all milk or all cream depending upon how rich and creamy you want the hot chocolate to be. Add a cinnamon stick or pinch of chipotle pepper to the simmering liquid for an adventurous surprise!

Recipe by Monica Glass